BLACK FRIDAY - use code *BLACKFRIDAY10* for 10% Off Appliance Parts www.amresupply.com/catalog/Appliance-Parts Valid for unlimited use between Nov 29th - Dec 2nd, 2024 at midnight. Valid only for online purchases. Must enter code at checkout. Subject to product availability, no rain checks issued. Discount applies to pre-tax total only, excludes shipping & handling. Can be used in conjunction with sale priced items and quantity buy discounts. AMRE Supply reserves the right to modify or cancel this promotion at any time without notice.
You're welcome, we're just happy to help! These series take a lot of work to create but we feel that it's worth it. We're currently working on a refrigerator series which will be be the same sort of quality as the oven series. It will take some time to complete though!
Thanks for watching. The thermal fuse is generally wired to the main power and not just 1 heating element but you can still check it to be certain. ua-cam.com/video/96s7maybHlY/v-deo.html A faulty temp sensor would prevent both the oven heating elements from working, It's possible that the control board relay for the bottom element is faulty. These relays are not easily tested, or replaced without additional tools and knowledge. You could check the wires between the control board and the bottom element and see if each wire has continuity. If you can see any burnt or frayed wires, then you'll have to replace that segment. As well check to make sure each connection is secure. If the wires are good, then you might need to install a new control board: ua-cam.com/video/ORTi4lLyoqw/v-deo.html Hope this helps!
@@AmreSupply I found the issues. Where the harness plugs into the control board, the yellow wire coming from the bottom element was burnt & the harness end that plugs into the control board was burnt and / melted as well.
Thanks for the video. Our bake element is glowing red on one single corner, even when the switch is off? I checked continuity and the element is bad. What will cause this to be on in only 1 small area of the element e en when the switch is off?
Hi! What is the issue if the wire/ connectors in the back of the oven catch fire? I replaced the element about a year ago, and havent had any issues. Could it possibly be a house witing issue that i should be concerned with even if i get a brand new oven?
Thanks for watching. If there was a bad connection and the fire started at the back of the elements, then it could have been a short or a bad connection. If the issue happened between the oven power cord and the 240V outlet, then it's best to get it inspected by an electrician.
I may have misheard but is there a way to test if it’s just one heating element bad and not both? If so how do you do that or is it if there’s no continuity then all elements need change? I have an oven which is convection as well. I try to preheat it and it gets hot up to 300 something then just stays there and it also takes a while to even get that hot. I’m wanting to figure it out before having to buy a whole new oven
Thanks for watching. 3:19 in this video shows how to do a continuity test of each heating element. If there is no continuity, the multimeter will show - - - - - - , or OL on the screen, and the element will need to be replaced. In your case if the oven is slow to heat up it could mean that 1 element is not working. Or it could mean that the temperature sensor is faulty. You can see how to test and replace the sensor in this other video: ua-cam.com/video/jnt_mUwdL8o/v-deo.html
Hi, great video! For a Westinghouse electric oven, are both the bake element and broil element supposed to be on while baking? The broil element only goes on when on broil, but I am told that it should go on at the same time as the bottom one. Thank you.
Thanks for watching, we're glad that you found it helpful! Ovens will differ and its hard to know of all the variations. In some ovens both the bake and broil will be on in various amounts while baking. These will not necessarily be synchronized. In other ovens only the bake element will turn on. For the broil setting, only the broil element will turn on. This is pretty standard across all ovens as the purpose of broiling is to brown the top of the food.
Nice video. I replaced the bottom bake element but no power. It caught fire and the elements was broken.The top coils work fine. The broil element when testing indicated sound. The temperature sensor displayed 11.1. Any suggestions??
Thanks for watching. A few points to clarify. Just to recap... Your bake element burnt up and failed so you replaced it. The bake element still doesn't work even after installing a new one. You have continuity on the broil element. Now if the temperature sensor is 1100 ohms or depending on the meter it might be 11 (on the x100 setting) then that is within the normal range. It sounds like it could be an issue with the thermal fuse, or the control board. The relay at the control board might have shorted when the element burnt out. You can see how to test the thermal fuse, temperature sensor and inspect the control board in this video: ua-cam.com/video/96s7maybHlY/v-deo.html Hope this helps!
Thanks for watching. There are cases like with a built in wall oven that can't be easily unplugged. In those cases turning off the breaker and verifying with a NCVT Non Contact Voltage Tester will be the most safe way to approach it. www.amresupply.com/part/9462517
I found an odd situation. The broil element and convection element both have continuity and good resistance. BUT the bake element has contunuity and ALSO 2.5Mohm resitance to the frame of the oven! Yet between the terminals there is normal 14 ohm resistance. Oven bottom is severly overheating at up to 600 degrees! When set at 375 degrees. No errors just extreme overheating. Thermal sensor reads ok 1100ohms. Power relay board wws alrready changed no effect. Is this a faulty bake element scenario as described in the video?
Thanks for watching. Normally a sensor or control issue would cause overheating but a short can also create that issue. If the sensor and the control board / relay are both good, and the bake element has continuity to ground, then it's best to install a new one.
The temp in the oven is off almost by 75 degrees. I have checked all 3 baking elements and they have continuity. I have checked the oven sensor, it has the proper resistance. Is there anything left for me to check to solve this problem? Thanks
Thanks for watching. If the temperature is off by 75 degrees and you've tested each of those components then the only thing left would be the control board. This is difficult to test so it's usually a process of elimination however these are easy to replace: ua-cam.com/video/ORTi4lLyoqw/v-deo.html
@@AmreSupply Just a quick question about the heating elements. When i tested them the Baking element had a reading of 14, the broil had a reading of 18 and the newly replaced conventional element had 46. Would the lower scores for the other 2 be of a concern and could they be the reason for the temp discrepancy? Since replacing a control board is $400. Thanks
@@theczechdude That is a little on the lower side but it depends on the wattage of the elements. If you know the voltage (240) and the wattage of each element you can calculate what the resistance should be for each: www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/ohms-law-calculator.html Its also worth checking to make sure that the terminals are clean and the connections are solid. A loose connection can cause the element to heat intermittently.
Thanks for watching. Can you clarify? What is the exact problem you're experiencing. Does the oven work on the bake and broil settings? Do all the stove elements work?
Thanks for watching. Yes you are technically correct about the infinite resistance. We normally say "no resistance reading" and in this section the words were condensed. In these sorts of videos we have avoided talking about infinite resistance as it takes more time to explain thoroughly.
My oven is < 2 years old and the element just stops heating after a few mins intermittently. Don't they either work or not work? I guess it could also be a loose connection.
Thanks for watching. You are right that the elements either turn on or off. The control board is what will determine when the elements are turned on. A faulty temperature sensor could cause it to shut of prematurely as it thinks that the oven is hotter than it is in reality: ua-cam.com/video/jnt_mUwdL8o/v-deo.html
@@AmreSupply Thanks, I'll check that. I don't think the broiler was used more than 10 times before failing. The oven it replaced was still fully functional after 30 years, although I replaced the bake element 3x!
@@martik778 In some models the broil element will also be used during the bake cycle so it still gets used. Regardless doesn't hurt to check every connection to make sure it is secure but the temperature sensor is a good part to check.
I can attest to that. My husband has changed a few elements for us, in dirty old ovens. And I just changed the most recent one, while he was working... Am fixing to go change out my sisters, in her old oven... So she can continue with Tday, while the Ole man's at work... I gotta agree with Ole dude. Usually elements in these old dirty ovens are standard. You can find them at almost any hardware store. And the process is so easy, within the right requirements, that someone like me can do in under 20 minutes.
BLACK FRIDAY - use code *BLACKFRIDAY10* for 10% Off Appliance Parts
www.amresupply.com/catalog/Appliance-Parts
Valid for unlimited use between Nov 29th - Dec 2nd, 2024 at midnight. Valid only for online purchases. Must enter code at checkout. Subject to product availability, no rain checks issued. Discount applies to pre-tax total only, excludes shipping & handling. Can be used in conjunction with sale priced items and quantity buy discounts. AMRE Supply reserves the right to modify or cancel this promotion at any time without notice.
This guy is straight up smoother than smooth!
Thank you, we're glad that you are enjoyed the video!
Change mine yesterday, was way easier than I thought. Unplugged oven then Swapped the element out, Took 10 mins
Thanks for watching, we're glad to hear that you got it repaired!
Thanks for making this video and empowering people to fix their broken appliances :)
You're welcome, we're just happy to help! These series take a lot of work to create but we feel that it's worth it. We're currently working on a refrigerator series which will be be the same sort of quality as the oven series. It will take some time to complete though!
Did this video help you fix your oven? Did you run into any problems? Let us know in the comments!
I haven't tried it yet, but when I do, I'll let you know.
@@kathrynebrownlow1946 Thank you for watching, best of luck with the repair!
So at 4:19 is that showing the element is faulty? Appreciate the nice video.
Directions are clear and easy to follow. Thank you
You're welcome! We're glad that you found the video helpful!
Top element works, but bottom doesn't. Replaced with new, bottom one still doesn't work. Could the thermal fuse be bad, or the temp sensor?
Thanks for watching. The thermal fuse is generally wired to the main power and not just 1 heating element but you can still check it to be certain. ua-cam.com/video/96s7maybHlY/v-deo.html
A faulty temp sensor would prevent both the oven heating elements from working,
It's possible that the control board relay for the bottom element is faulty. These relays are not easily tested, or replaced without additional tools and knowledge.
You could check the wires between the control board and the bottom element and see if each wire has continuity. If you can see any burnt or frayed wires, then you'll have to replace that segment. As well check to make sure each connection is secure.
If the wires are good, then you might need to install a new control board: ua-cam.com/video/ORTi4lLyoqw/v-deo.html
Hope this helps!
@@AmreSupply I found the issues. Where the harness plugs into the control board, the yellow wire coming from the bottom element was burnt & the harness end that plugs into the control board was burnt and / melted as well.
Thanks for the video. Our bake element is glowing red on one single corner, even when the switch is off? I checked continuity and the element is bad. What will cause this to be on in only 1 small area of the element e en when the switch is off?
Thanks for watching. It is possible that the element is shorted to ground. In any case installing a new element is best.
@@AmreSupply Thank you!
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Hi! What is the issue if the wire/ connectors in the back of the oven catch fire? I replaced the element about a year ago, and havent had any issues. Could it possibly be a house witing issue that i should be concerned with even if i get a brand new oven?
Thanks for watching. If there was a bad connection and the fire started at the back of the elements, then it could have been a short or a bad connection.
If the issue happened between the oven power cord and the 240V outlet, then it's best to get it inspected by an electrician.
I may have misheard but is there a way to test if it’s just one heating element bad and not both? If so how do you do that or is it if there’s no continuity then all elements need change?
I have an oven which is convection as well. I try to preheat it and it gets hot up to 300 something then just stays there and it also takes a while to even get that hot. I’m wanting to figure it out before having to buy a whole new oven
Thanks for watching. 3:19 in this video shows how to do a continuity test of each heating element. If there is no continuity, the multimeter will show - - - - - - , or OL on the screen, and the element will need to be replaced.
In your case if the oven is slow to heat up it could mean that 1 element is not working. Or it could mean that the temperature sensor is faulty. You can see how to test and replace the sensor in this other video: ua-cam.com/video/jnt_mUwdL8o/v-deo.html
Hi, great video! For a Westinghouse electric oven, are both the bake element and broil element supposed to be on while baking? The broil element only goes on when on broil, but I am told that it should go on at the same time as the bottom one. Thank you.
Thanks for watching, we're glad that you found it helpful! Ovens will differ and its hard to know of all the variations. In some ovens both the bake and broil will be on in various amounts while baking. These will not necessarily be synchronized. In other ovens only the bake element will turn on. For the broil setting, only the broil element will turn on. This is pretty standard across all ovens as the purpose of broiling is to brown the top of the food.
Nice video. I replaced the bottom bake element but no power. It caught fire and the elements was broken.The top coils work fine. The broil element when testing indicated sound. The temperature sensor displayed 11.1. Any suggestions??
Thanks for watching. A few points to clarify.
Just to recap... Your bake element burnt up and failed so you replaced it. The bake element still doesn't work even after installing a new one. You have continuity on the broil element.
Now if the temperature sensor is 1100 ohms or depending on the meter it might be 11 (on the x100 setting) then that is within the normal range.
It sounds like it could be an issue with the thermal fuse, or the control board. The relay at the control board might have shorted when the element burnt out.
You can see how to test the thermal fuse, temperature sensor and inspect the control board in this video: ua-cam.com/video/96s7maybHlY/v-deo.html
Hope this helps!
Can I remove lower bake element without unplugging from Wall ? Just turn off circuit breaker ?
Thanks for watching. There are cases like with a built in wall oven that can't be easily unplugged. In those cases turning off the breaker and verifying with a NCVT Non Contact Voltage Tester will be the most safe way to approach it. www.amresupply.com/part/9462517
I found an odd situation. The broil element and convection element both have continuity and good resistance. BUT the bake element has contunuity and ALSO 2.5Mohm resitance to the frame of the oven! Yet between the terminals there is normal 14 ohm resistance. Oven bottom is severly overheating at up to 600 degrees! When set at 375 degrees. No errors just extreme overheating. Thermal sensor reads ok 1100ohms. Power relay board wws alrready changed no effect. Is this a faulty bake element scenario as described in the video?
Thanks for watching. Normally a sensor or control issue would cause overheating but a short can also create that issue. If the sensor and the control board / relay are both good, and the bake element has continuity to ground, then it's best to install a new one.
I love you guys
Thank you so much!
Thanks
You're welcome!
With no controls can you just hook up the Eliment to streight power like one end power other neutral ?
Thanks for watching. It is not recommended to bypass the control board.
Is an oven heating element polarized?
Thanks for watching. An oven element is a resistor and is not polarized. Any current flowing through will create heat.
The temp in the oven is off almost by 75 degrees. I have checked all 3 baking elements and they have continuity. I have checked the oven sensor, it has the proper resistance. Is there anything left for me to check to solve this problem? Thanks
Thanks for watching. If the temperature is off by 75 degrees and you've tested each of those components then the only thing left would be the control board. This is difficult to test so it's usually a process of elimination however these are easy to replace: ua-cam.com/video/ORTi4lLyoqw/v-deo.html
@@AmreSupply Thank you for the response and I will look into.
@@AmreSupply Just a quick question about the heating elements. When i tested them the Baking element had a reading of 14, the broil had a reading of 18 and the newly replaced conventional element had 46. Would the lower scores for the other 2 be of a concern and could they be the reason for the temp discrepancy? Since replacing a control board is $400.
Thanks
@@theczechdude That is a little on the lower side but it depends on the wattage of the elements. If you know the voltage (240) and the wattage of each element you can calculate what the resistance should be for each: www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/ohms-law-calculator.html
Its also worth checking to make sure that the terminals are clean and the connections are solid. A loose connection can cause the element to heat intermittently.
@@AmreSupply Thank you again, i have checked the calculation all seems good. The only thing left is the control board
how do I make defy stove work both side into the oven
Thanks for watching. Can you clarify? What is the exact problem you're experiencing. Does the oven work on the bake and broil settings? Do all the stove elements work?
1:57 "without continuity, there is no resistance"...Technically, with no continuity there is infinite resistance, not "no resistance"
Thanks for watching. Yes you are technically correct about the infinite resistance. We normally say "no resistance reading" and in this section the words were condensed. In these sorts of videos we have avoided talking about infinite resistance as it takes more time to explain thoroughly.
My oven is < 2 years old and the element just stops heating after a few mins intermittently. Don't they either work or not work? I guess it could also be a loose connection.
Thanks for watching. You are right that the elements either turn on or off. The control board is what will determine when the elements are turned on. A faulty temperature sensor could cause it to shut of prematurely as it thinks that the oven is hotter than it is in reality: ua-cam.com/video/jnt_mUwdL8o/v-deo.html
@@AmreSupply Thanks, I'll check that. I don't think the broiler was used more than 10 times before failing. The oven it replaced was still fully functional after 30 years, although I replaced the bake element 3x!
@@martik778 In some models the broil element will also be used during the bake cycle so it still gets used. Regardless doesn't hurt to check every connection to make sure it is secure but the temperature sensor is a good part to check.
So it is not just the movies ,Robert Downey jr. really knows what he is doing.
Helping one person at a time!
Yep, anyone can unscrew and change elements as long as the oven its brand new.....now, try this in a used, dirty, full of burned oils all around......
Thanks for watching. Even when the oven is dirty the basic steps are the same it might just take a little longer.
I can attest to that. My husband has changed a few elements for us, in dirty old ovens. And I just changed the most recent one, while he was working... Am fixing to go change out my sisters, in her old oven... So she can continue with Tday, while the Ole man's at work...
I gotta agree with Ole dude. Usually elements in these old dirty ovens are standard. You can find them at almost any hardware store. And the process is so easy, within the right requirements, that someone like me can do in under 20 minutes.
You can do this. 🙂