BLACK FRIDAY - use code *BLACKFRIDAY10* for 10% Off Appliance Parts www.amresupply.com/catalog/Appliance-Parts Valid for unlimited use between Nov 29th - Dec 2nd, 2024 at midnight. Valid only for online purchases. Must enter code at checkout. Subject to product availability, no rain checks issued. Discount applies to pre-tax total only, excludes shipping & handling. Can be used in conjunction with sale priced items and quantity buy discounts. AMRE Supply reserves the right to modify or cancel this promotion at any time without notice.
I love the clear and concise info you give and it has helped me tremendously. I did run into another problem while trying to attache the power cord. The black block (possibly made of Bakelite material) started cracking away and a piece fell off the bottom. Now when I try to connect the black (left) wire the metal piece separates from the black piece. Can I replace the black piece?
@@gingertornquist5902 Thanks for watching, we're glad that you're finding the video helpful. You're referring to the terminal block which can be removed by removing the two mounting screws: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Cords-Receptacles-Terminal-Blocks-632508-AD1E There might be some variation between models so you can always look up the terminal block for your model: www.amresupply.com/lookupwww.amresupply.com/lookup Hope this helps!
I love your videos. The easiness of your explanations are great 👏I'm a 60 yr old first time homeowner and you make me feel like I can fix my oven with no problem, if I had all of those tools.🤗 My oven doesn't heat past pre-heat, is this the right video for that issue? Can you direct me to one that will?
Thanks for watching, we're glad that you found the video helpful! It is possible that one of your heating elements is not working. That would be the first thing to check: ua-cam.com/video/jB9SBT9gsdY/v-deo.htmlsi=DG9Sx3GyCh8MxTsr As well checking the temperature sensor can be good as well.
Thank you for watching. When it comes to checking the board relay, that is a little bit more advanced and more difficult. In most cases people decide to replace the entire control board instead of attempting any repairs to the control board.
Hi Vance, great video. My problem is slightly different. My electric range/coils (stove top) work normal but the display doesn't work and because of that I can't turn on oven. I could not find a fuse. It's GE JB255D J2BB. I believe it's not a tripping issue because electric range coils work.
Thank you for watching. If there is any resistance reading, then that means there is a continuous path for electricity to flow through. 0 ohms still means electricity flows easily and many wires will have between 0 and 1 ohms of resistance. If there is no continuity, then there is no resistance reading. The multimeter might show OL (open loop) or - - - - - - or some other null reading. If your temperature sensor has a good ohm reading, then it by definition has continuity.
Great video Had a problem with our Electrolux double oven, slow heating & not working at times. Checked the temperature sensor, hi temp. Cutouts, elements & everything appeared ok. Checked with a few buddies looking for some insight, before replacing the control panel. For some reason the following procedure is not included too reset the main control panel with the oven manual? The Great Reset Procedure 1. Main control panel, enter the preference / wrench. 2. rse will show no. 3. Enter plus sign & then enter yes. 4. Enter start.
Thanks for watching. Did that reset procedure work in your case or did you end up replacing the control board. The user manuals don't always provide all the information as Technicians will use service manuals that cover more detail. These service manuals sometimes include ways of testing the control board or certain features using several dedicated pins on the board. These are not usually available to the public. There is also a lot of variation between manufacturers so it's a hard thing to sum up and try to explain without getting into specific models.
@@AmreSupply after resetting the control panel both ovens starting working with no issues. We have operated both ovens a few times appear too be ok & remain optimistic. My understanding is that Electrolux ovens use Fzridgedare components and use the same reset procedure for the control panel. Apparently it is recommended too reset the control panel on a regular bases / yearly or whenever necessary. We’ve had our oven for approximately 6 years and this was the first reset.
@@robertcarstens2967 Glad to hear that it working again. You are right that Electrolux and Frigidaire use similar / the same components. Frigidaire is not exactly a sub-brand for Electrolux. Both companies are part of the same parent company, but they are distinct entities.
I have a gas range and recently replaced a faulty igniter for the oven. The temperature doesn’t seem to be correct, and oven seems to cycle more frequently than before. No error code on the control board. Could this mean a fuse issue, an oven door issue? Thank you in advance.
Thanks for watching. Does your board use a temperature sensor like this? If the sensor is faulty then it can misread the temperature and the oven will overcompensate (cycling more frequently) ua-cam.com/video/jnt_mUwdL8o/v-deo.html
I thought I had a bad bake element so I replaced it and still no heat from it but the broiler works. I tested the temp sensor and no continuity at all OL. so I took it out and and plugged the power cord back in so we can still use the stove and tried to use the broiler just to see if it would work and the broiler element won't work now, so I put the temp sensor back in just to see if the broiler element would work and it did. I don't understand how that is? Should I order the temp sensor anyway? Maybe something else is bad also? I had just recently installed a new terminal block where the power cord hooks up because one end was completely melted from overheating. I don't have the schematic but from what I can see i don't see a fuse, its a very old Frigidaire model and I just wonder if it's just time to get a new one. Thanks
Thanks for watching. Does your range have individual heat switches or does the control board also control the stove elements? If the control board does everything it might shut off power to the stove top if the temp sensor is not working properly.
@@AmreSupplyI believe that it does have individual switches for the stove elements because they all work fine. I don't have the schematics but I look at one online but it's hard to read when I zoom it. It's a Frigidaire model number FEF365BGWC. It's my mother's oven and she says it has been having issues with the temperature before it stopped working, she has used the self cleaning option occasionally and I think it has alot to do with the reason I had to put it in a new terminal block for the power cord because one of the terminal leads was melted completely off the block. I tested the temp sensor and it has no resistance OL, I have replaced the bake element because I assumed it was bad. I don't understand why the broiler works with the temp sensor having no resistance but you have to turn it way up to get any heat from the broiler element I was considering using a wire to jump the temperature probe clip to see if that would show me if it would make a connection to the bake element so I would no for sure if it was the temp sensor, but I didn't know if it would cause the control panel to short out something? I really appreciate you responding to me Thank you.
@@rickhawk6131 I misread what you originally wrote when you mentioned the stove. That model has individual heat switches for the stove, those run on different circuits and the oven operation will not be effected by it.. Can't say what the programming inside of the control board is, but it is odd for the broil setting to work even when the sensor is bypassed. If the sensor does not have continuity or does not have a resistance that is within the normal range, then it is best to install a new temperature sensor. Check to make sure that all the connections are secure and that there is nothing that could cause the sensor to short circuit.
Thank you I will do that I'm kind of going through the process of elimination and hopefully I don't have pay for a new control panel with the element relays not for this old thing but I believe you are right about the temp sensor.Thank you very much, I really appreciate it
@@rickhawk6131 Just happy to help! Usually the control board is the last thing to be replaced. Since it is a black box it can't be tested in the same way as other components. Keep us updated on the repair.
My problem is the oven will not stop heating no matter what temp I set it on. If the thermocouple is not connected to the power block, could that.cause the problem? The wire in question does not seem to be the problem if the unit comes up to heat but will not regulate.
Ovens will use a thermistor as a temperature sensor not a thermocouple. Older models that don't have a control board use a sensing bulb full of fluid. If the oven elements won't shut off then it could be an issue with the temperature sensor, a shorted heating element or an issue with the control board. ua-cam.com/video/10ezc3LNQP4/v-deo.html
@@AmreSupply Another question, I have a copper tab that is connected to the back of the stove with a green screw (below the power block). Should this copper tab be attached to the neutral wire at the center of the power block to provide a ground?
@@gingertornquist5902 If your power outlet doesn't have a dedicated ground wire and only has 3 terminals, then yes the neutral will be used for the ground.
If the wire is one that goes between the control board and the heating element, trace the wire and test both ends. In most cases you can get the multimeter leads onto the connector. If not you can disconnect the wire connectors as this will isolate it and help you get a clean reading.
Thanks for watching. Most models have individual heat switches for the stove burners, and the oven controlled by the oven. If your model has individual heat switches and both the stove and the oven are not heating up then it's likely an issue with the power. If your model has a control board that controls the oven and stove, and both are not heating up enough, then it's likely an issue with the control board.
I have an oven that's not heating and is making a loud popping/clicking sound from the display it sounds like when oven/broil is on. Any ideas what it could be? Does control board need to be replaced? Thanks
Thanks for watching. You are likely hearing the bake or broil relay. These relays will open when there is a call for heat. In any case it's best to check the broil and bake settings independently to see if the problem still occurs. As well verify that the temperature sensor is still good. If you've eliminated those, then it could be a faulty control board.
Thanks for watching. Are you saying that you entered your model number into the lookup tool and it didn't show a temperature sensor or fuse? If you have an older model it's possible that it uses a oven control thermostat: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Oven-Control-Thermostats-632506-AD1P These are different then a temperature sensor (which are heat sensitive resistors). An oven control thermostat has a fluid filled tube that expands when heated. The contacts can become stuck and wear out over time preventing it from sending power to the heating elements.
Thanks for watching. In some cases the sensor and the oven and the oven elements can be accessed individually and tested from inside the oven but it depends on the model. However if you unplug the sensor and test the remaining wires, then you won't get an useful reading of anything as these wires lead back to the control board. Each oven element connects to a relay on the control board, so you'll have to test each element independently.
Thanks for watching. By card do you mean the cord or the control board? The control board has two relays that connect 120V to each terminal of the heating element. If the relay fails or is stuck open then the oven will not heat. Unfortunately the control board can't be easily tested without additional tools or knowledge so in many cases it's just best to install a new control board.
Thanks for watching. Not all ovens have fuses. If your stove elements heat up then that means you're getting 240 volts of power to your range. If your display is working then its best to check the temperature sensor. If the temperature sensor is good, and the oven still doesn't work then it could be a faulty control board: ua-cam.com/video/ORTi4lLyoqw/v-deo.html
My problem is similar, top works perfectly, display is fine but neither elements heat much but they do heat.. tested elements and temp sensor all good, noticed the oven ventilator starts for nothing.. will replace control board :)
My oven would not come on, and the display said f9. The 2 wires that connect to the baking element were badly damaged. I cut off the damaged part of the wires and added new wires with butt connectors and new terminals. My oven started working again for about 2 weeks. After two weeks there was a pop and the oven turned off and f9 appeared again. I checked the wires and there was a little damage to them. I crimp them again, just like I did before, but f9 keeps appearing. I just don't know what I am doing differently. The first time I crimp the wires the oven started working again. I have now crimp them 3 or 4 different times, and f9 just keep coming back. Also, the oven warms up. It says f9, but the oven actually heats up. The elements dont glow but you can feel heat. I can't turn it off because none of the buttons on the control board works so I have to turn the breaker off. If anyone has suggestions please let me know. I can't afford a new oven or to have someone fix it.
Thanks for the update. It is possible that the heating elements are faulty, or have a weak connection and are shorting to ground. You can check the elements for a short by following these steps: ua-cam.com/video/10ezc3LNQP4/v-deo.htmlsi=9Boe-qsZ6gRA7LUl&t=283 It's worth checking to see make sure all other connections are isolated and nothing is touching that is potentially causing a short. As well if the elements, temp sensor and wires are all good, then it could be a faulty relay in the control board: ua-cam.com/video/ORTi4lLyoqw/v-deo.html If nothing else helps, then it could be an issue with your power supply. A power surge can also cause these sorts of problems but these are more rare and harder to narrow down. In this case an Electrician would need to do an inspection.
@AmreSupply I just checked the elements for a short and they had no continuity. I then checked the thermal sensor resistance and it read 1.0. I also checked the continuity of the thermal sensor and it read 1095.
@@Cartoonjoker15 Misread your previous messeage. Yes the temperature sensor (thermistor) should be close to1080 ohms. If it only tests 1.0 ohms at room temperature then it is faulty, and will need to be replaced.
my electric range Maytag might be dead ? i had a chicken in the oven at 375 degrees and after 20 minutes, i was in the living room, i heard what sounded like electricity like what you hear in youtuve videos of power lines arcing it then shut off completely if i turn the knobs for the burners, they dont turn on, the light is off in the oven, and the oven wont turn on - - but if i turn one of the burner knobs on, then the lcd display screen shows some error any idea what might have fried ? thermal resistor ? green computer board ?
Thanks for watching. That could have been a power surge or some kind. It could have blown a thermal fuse, or damaged the control board. In most cases the control board sends power to only the oven and the stove burners are on separate circuits controlled by 4 infinite heat switches. What stops working depends on where the thermal fuse is located in the circuit. In any case it is still good to check that before assuming that it is the control board. It also doesn't hurt to shut off power for 10 minutes and restart the range to see if it resets the board.
@@AmreSupply hi, my house is built in 1970 with aluminum wiring and fuses it was the dual cartridge fuse in my basement that went one of the fuses died - i checked them on the voltimeter bought 2 brand new ones at home depot and the oven and burners work again
I would appreciate if someone could answer a question? Do both elements needs to be bright orange or do they work separately? When l turn on my oven the bottom heater looks orange but top is not orange but still it's working. Is this a problem or it's ok ?
Thanks for watching. No the heating elements do not need to glow at full brightness to produce heat. You'll find that they will often glow for a bit when the oven is pre-heating then will not glow much afterwards. The bake and broil elements will not always be on at the same time. For broil only the top broil element will be used. For bake only the bake element is used in some models but in other models both the bake and broil are used.
My oven says f9. The stove works fine but the oven is dead. The light inside the oven wont even come on. I checked the manual and it says F9 means there is a wiring problem. Its strange because the oven worked fine for awhile then it just stop heating up. Any tips? I cant afford a Electrician or a new oven.
Thanks for watching. Following the steps in the video it's still best to check if there is a thermal fuse or not. Then test the temperature sensor. If the control board still works, still shows the time etc then you might want to check the wires for any damage. Checking the wire harness is mentioned in this video: ua-cam.com/video/wZwxewn2w44/v-deo.html
@AmreSupply Thanks man. I'll watch the video and hopefully I can get the oven back working. The clock doesn't work anymore. It shows F9 no matter what I do and none of the buttons seem to work either. They won't even beep except for cancle.
@@Cartoonjoker15 The oven control might be faulty but it might also just detect an issue with one of the 120V lines of power. If it detects that one line isn't working then it might be giving you that code and locking the oven out of any function until that is fixed. Checking the fuse and wires will still be helpful in this case.
@AmreSupply OK, I'll definitely check them. I have one more question. Is it possible for ovens to not have any kind of latch? My oven doesn't have one but it worked fine for awhile. It was a display model at lowes. I took off the stove part thinking the latch might have fallen inward. I also took off the back panel to see if there was one of those metal rod things instead of the hook type of latch.
@@Cartoonjoker15 The door lock / latch is normally engaged during self cleaning to protect the door from opening during the extreme temperatures needed for self cleaning. Some models do not have all the same features and if your model doesn't have self cleaning then it won't need a lock.
I just replaced the display board(buttons werent working) now the oven doesnt work and when i press bake or broil the light comes on, it didn't before.
Thanks for watching. When installing a new control board it is essential that each wire goes to the same terminal on the new board. Does your board use hard plastic connectors, or are they individual wired connectors? Your board likely has 3 small black relays. One for the bake, one for the broil, and if there's a light button on the board, then there will also be a relay for the light circuit. If this is the case then one of these wires might be in the wrong place.
@@AmreSupply Thank you for replying, How will i know if its in the wrong place its all cokor coded and i plugged them in exactly as they were. I also noticed when it says preheat i hear a clicking sound too.
@@AsYouWish0507 If you have the same board and the wires are in the same place then it should work the same. As a double check you could trace the wires back to the heating elements. The relays are sometimes labeled so you can use that to verify. The clicking sound will happen anytime the relay turns on and off. That will happen during a pre-heat or when the oven is heating / cycling. Has anything else changed during the installation?
Thanks for watching. The way that the outlet is designed the oven can't be plugged in "wrong" but unplugging it and plugging it back in can help to reset the control board in some cases.
Thanks for watching. That is not a very common error code but for some Frigidaire models an F82 can mean that there was a power outage or a short in the control board. Try to do a reset and see if that clears the code. Since control board problems are hard to narrow down it could still be good to test the temp sensor and check all wire connections into the board first before replacing it.
Thanks for watching. Testing the control board can be tricky and is beyond the scope of this series. You are right that similar principles apply to PCBs. Often a capacitor or a fuse can blow, preventing the whole board from working. In other cases a bad relay can just prevent power from going to the heating elements.
Thanks for watching. By card do you mean the cord or the control board? The control board has two relays that connect 120V to each terminal of the heating element. If the relay fails or is stuck open then the oven will not heat. Unfortunately the control board can't be easily tested without additional tools or knowledge so in many cases it's just best to install a new control board.
Thanks for watching. Not all ovens have a thermal fuse. Using your model number, you can search for a parts breakdown on amresupply.com This can tell you if your model uses a thermal fuse or not. In models that don't have a thermal fuse or a high limit switch, the oven sensor will monitor for overheating and the control board will disconnect power as needed.
our samsung range would not go past 269 degrees on 350 bake. everything on cooktop works fine, clock is fine. The first time I unplugged from wall removed the back check all connections tested all of the components and found no problems. I took the control board out and went over it with a magnifying glass, no visible problems not even one cat hair on it. put it all back together it worked fine for several days and then did it again. I repeated the entire process again and it worked for a few days. 3rd time unplugged all connections to the elements temp sensor and board. got a few more days out of it 4th time only unplugged the control board and it worked for over 2 months. I am going to do it today for the 8th time. It doesn't bother me that much but my wife is getting fed up with it. has any body else had this happen?
Thanks for watching. From what you're describing it is likely a faulty temperature sensor. If the resistance is low then the control board will think that the oven is hotter than it actually is. We have a dedicated video showing how to test and install a new one: ua-cam.com/video/jnt_mUwdL8o/v-deo.html As well if you need a new sensor you can use the model lookup tool to narrow it down: www.amresupply.com/lookup
Thanks for watching. In this case you have partial power. 120V is being sent to the control board but there's likely an issue with the 2nd line of power as the heating elements need both 120V lines to work properly: ua-cam.com/video/wZwxewn2w44/v-deo.html
BLACK FRIDAY - use code *BLACKFRIDAY10* for 10% Off Appliance Parts
www.amresupply.com/catalog/Appliance-Parts
Valid for unlimited use between Nov 29th - Dec 2nd, 2024 at midnight. Valid only for online purchases. Must enter code at checkout. Subject to product availability, no rain checks issued. Discount applies to pre-tax total only, excludes shipping & handling. Can be used in conjunction with sale priced items and quantity buy discounts. AMRE Supply reserves the right to modify or cancel this promotion at any time without notice.
Honestly as a appliance technician you simplify this process with ease thank you sir
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Did this video help you troubleshoot your oven? Did you run into any hurdles? Let us know in the comments!
I love the clear and concise info you give and it has helped me tremendously. I did run into another problem while trying to attache the power cord. The black block (possibly made of Bakelite material) started cracking away and a piece fell off the bottom. Now when I try to connect the black (left) wire the metal piece separates from the black piece. Can I replace the black piece?
@@gingertornquist5902 Thanks for watching, we're glad that you're finding the video helpful.
You're referring to the terminal block which can be removed by removing the two mounting screws: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Cords-Receptacles-Terminal-Blocks-632508-AD1E
There might be some variation between models so you can always look up the terminal block for your model: www.amresupply.com/lookupwww.amresupply.com/lookup
Hope this helps!
I love your videos. The easiness of your explanations are great 👏I'm a 60 yr old first time homeowner and you make me feel like I can fix my oven with no problem, if I had all of those tools.🤗 My oven doesn't heat past pre-heat, is this the right video for that issue? Can you direct me to one that will?
Thanks for watching, we're glad that you found the video helpful! It is possible that one of your heating elements is not working. That would be the first thing to check: ua-cam.com/video/jB9SBT9gsdY/v-deo.htmlsi=DG9Sx3GyCh8MxTsr
As well checking the temperature sensor can be good as well.
Thank you for this great video!
You're welcome!!
Καλησπέρα, όλα τα βιντεάκια σας είναι υπέροχα! Πως μπορούμε να ελέγξουμε τα relay της πλακέτας και πώς μπορούμε να τα αντικαταστήσουμε; Σας ευχαριστώ.
Thank you for watching. When it comes to checking the board relay, that is a little bit more advanced and more difficult. In most cases people decide to replace the entire control board instead of attempting any repairs to the control board.
Love your videos ....
Thank you Marvin, we're just happy to help!
Hi Vance, great video. My problem is slightly different. My electric range/coils (stove top) work normal but the display doesn't work and because of that I can't turn on oven. I could not find a fuse. It's GE JB255D J2BB. I believe it's not a tripping issue because electric range coils work.
Thanks for watching! We have a video that covers what to do if the display isn't working: ua-cam.com/video/yLBpPg7dsg8/v-deo.html
Great video ✅
Thank you, we're glad you found it helpful!
Excellent troubleshooting video! Many thanks!
You're welcome Kathleen, we're so glad that you found it helpful!
Awesome detail explanation
Thank you, we're just happy to help!
Great video, Thank you. my temperature sensor has a good ohm reading but no continuity, Should I replace?
Thank you for watching. If there is any resistance reading, then that means there is a continuous path for electricity to flow through. 0 ohms still means electricity flows easily and many wires will have between 0 and 1 ohms of resistance.
If there is no continuity, then there is no resistance reading. The multimeter might show OL (open loop) or - - - - - - or some other null reading.
If your temperature sensor has a good ohm reading, then it by definition has continuity.
Great video
Had a problem with our Electrolux double oven, slow heating & not working at times. Checked the temperature sensor, hi temp. Cutouts, elements & everything appeared ok. Checked with a few buddies looking for some insight, before replacing the control panel. For some reason the following procedure is not included too reset the main control panel with the oven manual?
The Great Reset Procedure
1. Main control panel, enter the preference / wrench.
2. rse will show no.
3. Enter plus sign & then enter yes.
4. Enter start.
Thanks for watching. Did that reset procedure work in your case or did you end up replacing the control board.
The user manuals don't always provide all the information as Technicians will use service manuals that cover more detail. These service manuals sometimes include ways of testing the control board or certain features using several dedicated pins on the board. These are not usually available to the public. There is also a lot of variation between manufacturers so it's a hard thing to sum up and try to explain without getting into specific models.
@@AmreSupply after resetting the control panel both ovens starting working with no issues. We have operated both ovens a few times appear too be ok & remain optimistic. My understanding is that Electrolux ovens use Fzridgedare components and use the same reset procedure for the control panel. Apparently it is recommended too reset the control panel on a regular bases / yearly or whenever necessary. We’ve had our oven for approximately 6 years and this was the first reset.
@@robertcarstens2967 Glad to hear that it working again. You are right that Electrolux and Frigidaire use similar / the same components. Frigidaire is not exactly a sub-brand for Electrolux. Both companies are part of the same parent company, but they are distinct entities.
I have a gas range and recently replaced a faulty igniter for the oven. The temperature doesn’t seem to be correct, and oven seems to cycle more frequently than before. No error code on the control board. Could this mean a fuse issue, an oven door issue? Thank you in advance.
Or can I reset the board?
Thanks for watching. Does your board use a temperature sensor like this? If the sensor is faulty then it can misread the temperature and the oven will overcompensate (cycling more frequently) ua-cam.com/video/jnt_mUwdL8o/v-deo.html
I thought I had a bad bake element so I replaced it and still no heat from it but the broiler works. I tested the temp sensor and no continuity at all OL. so I took it out and and plugged the power cord back in so we can still use the stove and tried to use the broiler just to see if it would work and the broiler element won't work now, so I put the temp sensor back in just to see if the broiler element would work and it did. I don't understand how that is? Should I order the temp sensor anyway? Maybe something else is bad also? I had just recently installed a new terminal block where the power cord hooks up because one end was completely melted from overheating. I don't have the schematic but from what I can see i don't see a fuse, its a very old Frigidaire model and I just wonder if it's just time to get a new one. Thanks
Thanks for watching. Does your range have individual heat switches or does the control board also control the stove elements? If the control board does everything it might shut off power to the stove top if the temp sensor is not working properly.
@@AmreSupplyI believe that it does have individual switches for the stove elements because they all work fine. I don't have the schematics but I look at one online but it's hard to read when I zoom it. It's a Frigidaire model number FEF365BGWC. It's my mother's oven and she says it has been having issues with the temperature before it stopped working, she has used the self cleaning option occasionally and I think it has alot to do with the reason I had to put it in a new terminal block for the power cord because one of the terminal leads was melted completely off the block. I tested the temp sensor and it has no resistance OL, I have replaced the bake element because I assumed it was bad. I don't understand why the broiler works with the temp sensor having no resistance but you have to turn it way up to get any heat from the broiler element
I was considering using a wire to jump the temperature probe clip to see if that would show me if it would make a connection to the bake element so I would no for sure if it was the temp sensor, but I didn't know if it would cause the control panel to short out something? I really appreciate you responding to me Thank you.
@@rickhawk6131 I misread what you originally wrote when you mentioned the stove. That model has individual heat switches for the stove, those run on different circuits and the oven operation will not be effected by it..
Can't say what the programming inside of the control board is, but it is odd for the broil setting to work even when the sensor is bypassed. If the sensor does not have continuity or does not have a resistance that is within the normal range, then it is best to install a new temperature sensor. Check to make sure that all the connections are secure and that there is nothing that could cause the sensor to short circuit.
Thank you I will do that I'm kind of going through the process of elimination and hopefully I don't have pay for a new control panel with the element relays not for this old thing but I believe you are right about the temp sensor.Thank you very much, I really appreciate it
@@rickhawk6131 Just happy to help! Usually the control board is the last thing to be replaced. Since it is a black box it can't be tested in the same way as other components. Keep us updated on the repair.
My problem is the oven will not stop heating no matter what temp I set it on. If the thermocouple is not connected to the power block, could that.cause the problem? The wire in question does not seem to be the problem if the unit comes up to heat but will not regulate.
Ovens will use a thermistor as a temperature sensor not a thermocouple. Older models that don't have a control board use a sensing bulb full of fluid.
If the oven elements won't shut off then it could be an issue with the temperature sensor, a shorted heating element or an issue with the control board. ua-cam.com/video/10ezc3LNQP4/v-deo.html
@@AmreSupply Thank you for the terminology correction ( I started learning with swimming pool heaters).
@@AmreSupply Another question, I have a copper tab that is connected to the back of the stove with a green screw (below the power block). Should this copper tab be attached to the neutral wire at the center of the power block to provide a ground?
@@gingertornquist5902 If your power outlet doesn't have a dedicated ground wire and only has 3 terminals, then yes the neutral will be used for the ground.
To check the wire for continuity i place one rod anywhere on the control board and the other anywhere on the end of the wire thats not damaged?
If the wire is one that goes between the control board and the heating element, trace the wire and test both ends. In most cases you can get the multimeter leads onto the connector. If not you can disconnect the wire connectors as this will isolate it and help you get a clean reading.
Helpful video. Thankyou
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Great vedios. Thank you so much!
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Awesome job thank you so much
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A+++❤ Thanks Mr.!!!
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Would issue be control panel if oven and stove get warm but not hot ?
Thanks for watching. Most models have individual heat switches for the stove burners, and the oven controlled by the oven.
If your model has individual heat switches and both the stove and the oven are not heating up then it's likely an issue with the power.
If your model has a control board that controls the oven and stove, and both are not heating up enough, then it's likely an issue with the control board.
I have an oven that's not heating and is making a loud popping/clicking sound from the display it sounds like when oven/broil is on. Any ideas what it could be? Does control board need to be replaced? Thanks
Thanks for watching. You are likely hearing the bake or broil relay. These relays will open when there is a call for heat. In any case it's best to check the broil and bake settings independently to see if the problem still occurs. As well verify that the temperature sensor is still good. If you've eliminated those, then it could be a faulty control board.
The website AMRE never heard of a thermal fuse or a temperature sensor. For my GE Range
Thanks for watching. Are you saying that you entered your model number into the lookup tool and it didn't show a temperature sensor or fuse?
If you have an older model it's possible that it uses a oven control thermostat: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Oven-Control-Thermostats-632506-AD1P These are different then a temperature sensor (which are heat sensitive resistors). An oven control thermostat has a fluid filled tube that expands when heated. The contacts can become stuck and wear out over time preventing it from sending power to the heating elements.
can we not unplug the sensor in oven and jumper the plug to test the elements?
Thanks for watching. In some cases the sensor and the oven and the oven elements can be accessed individually and tested from inside the oven but it depends on the model. However if you unplug the sensor and test the remaining wires, then you won't get an useful reading of anything as these wires lead back to the control board. Each oven element connects to a relay on the control board, so you'll have to test each element independently.
How the cards work to feed electricity to the oven?
Thanks for watching. By card do you mean the cord or the control board? The control board has two relays that connect 120V to each terminal of the heating element. If the relay fails or is stuck open then the oven will not heat. Unfortunately the control board can't be easily tested without additional tools or knowledge so in many cases it's just best to install a new control board.
This would be helpful if we could even find a fuse on our 5 yr old oven. Everything worked except the oven, and it's not the elements.
Thanks for watching. Not all ovens have fuses. If your stove elements heat up then that means you're getting 240 volts of power to your range. If your display is working then its best to check the temperature sensor. If the temperature sensor is good, and the oven still doesn't work then it could be a faulty control board: ua-cam.com/video/ORTi4lLyoqw/v-deo.html
My problem is similar, top works perfectly, display is fine but neither elements heat much but they do heat.. tested elements and temp sensor all good, noticed the oven ventilator starts for nothing.. will replace control board :)
My oven would not come on, and the display said f9. The 2 wires that connect to the baking element were badly damaged. I cut off the damaged part of the wires and added new wires with butt connectors and new terminals. My oven started working again for about 2 weeks. After two weeks there was a pop and the oven turned off and f9 appeared again.
I checked the wires and there was a little damage to them. I crimp them again, just like I did before, but f9 keeps appearing. I just don't know what I am doing differently. The first time I crimp the wires the oven started working again. I have now crimp them 3 or 4 different times, and f9 just keep coming back.
Also, the oven warms up. It says f9, but the oven actually heats up. The elements dont glow but you can feel heat. I can't turn it off because none of the buttons on the control board works so I have to turn the breaker off. If anyone has suggestions please let me know. I can't afford a new oven or to have someone fix it.
Thanks for the update. It is possible that the heating elements are faulty, or have a weak connection and are shorting to ground. You can check the elements for a short by following these steps: ua-cam.com/video/10ezc3LNQP4/v-deo.htmlsi=9Boe-qsZ6gRA7LUl&t=283
It's worth checking to see make sure all other connections are isolated and nothing is touching that is potentially causing a short.
As well if the elements, temp sensor and wires are all good, then it could be a faulty relay in the control board: ua-cam.com/video/ORTi4lLyoqw/v-deo.html
If nothing else helps, then it could be an issue with your power supply. A power surge can also cause these sorts of problems but these are more rare and harder to narrow down. In this case an Electrician would need to do an inspection.
@AmreSupply I just checked the elements for a short and they had no continuity. I then checked the thermal sensor resistance and it read 1.0. I also checked the continuity of the thermal sensor and it read 1095.
@@Cartoonjoker15 Thanks for the update. If all other parts are good, then be an issue with the control board or an issue with the power supply.
@@AmreSupply OK. The thermal sensor read 1.0. So I should replace it? I think it said in the video that the resistance should be 1080?
@@Cartoonjoker15 Misread your previous messeage. Yes the temperature sensor (thermistor) should be close to1080 ohms. If it only tests 1.0 ohms at room temperature then it is faulty, and will need to be replaced.
my electric range Maytag might be dead ?
i had a chicken in the oven at 375 degrees and after 20 minutes, i was in the living room, i heard what sounded like electricity
like what you hear in youtuve videos of power lines arcing
it then shut off completely
if i turn the knobs for the burners, they dont turn on, the light is off in the oven, and the oven wont turn on - - but if i turn one of the burner knobs on, then the lcd display screen shows some error
any idea what might have fried ? thermal resistor ? green computer board ?
Thanks for watching. That could have been a power surge or some kind. It could have blown a thermal fuse, or damaged the control board.
In most cases the control board sends power to only the oven and the stove burners are on separate circuits controlled by 4 infinite heat switches.
What stops working depends on where the thermal fuse is located in the circuit. In any case it is still good to check that before assuming that it is the control board.
It also doesn't hurt to shut off power for 10 minutes and restart the range to see if it resets the board.
@@AmreSupply hi, my house is built in 1970 with aluminum wiring and fuses
it was the dual cartridge fuse in my basement that went
one of the fuses died - i checked them on the voltimeter
bought 2 brand new ones at home depot and the oven and burners work again
I would appreciate if someone could answer a question? Do both elements needs to be bright orange or do they work separately? When l turn on my oven the bottom heater looks orange but top is not orange but still it's working. Is this a problem or it's ok ?
Thanks for watching. No the heating elements do not need to glow at full brightness to produce heat. You'll find that they will often glow for a bit when the oven is pre-heating then will not glow much afterwards. The bake and broil elements will not always be on at the same time. For broil only the top broil element will be used. For bake only the bake element is used in some models but in other models both the bake and broil are used.
Found it, thankyou.
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My oven says f9. The stove works fine but the oven is dead. The light inside the oven wont even come on. I checked the manual and it says F9 means there is a wiring problem. Its strange because the oven worked fine for awhile then it just stop heating up. Any tips? I cant afford a Electrician or a new oven.
Thanks for watching. Following the steps in the video it's still best to check if there is a thermal fuse or not. Then test the temperature sensor. If the control board still works, still shows the time etc then you might want to check the wires for any damage. Checking the wire harness is mentioned in this video: ua-cam.com/video/wZwxewn2w44/v-deo.html
@AmreSupply Thanks man. I'll watch the video and hopefully I can get the oven back working. The clock doesn't work anymore. It shows F9 no matter what I do and none of the buttons seem to work either. They won't even beep except for cancle.
@@Cartoonjoker15 The oven control might be faulty but it might also just detect an issue with one of the 120V lines of power. If it detects that one line isn't working then it might be giving you that code and locking the oven out of any function until that is fixed. Checking the fuse and wires will still be helpful in this case.
@AmreSupply OK, I'll definitely check them. I have one more question. Is it possible for ovens to not have any kind of latch? My oven doesn't have one but it worked fine for awhile. It was a display model at lowes. I took off the stove part thinking the latch might have fallen inward. I also took off the back panel to see if there was one of those metal rod things instead of the hook type of latch.
@@Cartoonjoker15 The door lock / latch is normally engaged during self cleaning to protect the door from opening during the extreme temperatures needed for self cleaning. Some models do not have all the same features and if your model doesn't have self cleaning then it won't need a lock.
Thankssss you
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I just replaced the display board(buttons werent working) now the oven doesnt work and when i press bake or broil the light comes on, it didn't before.
Thanks for watching. When installing a new control board it is essential that each wire goes to the same terminal on the new board.
Does your board use hard plastic connectors, or are they individual wired connectors?
Your board likely has 3 small black relays. One for the bake, one for the broil, and if there's a light button on the board, then there will also be a relay for the light circuit. If this is the case then one of these wires might be in the wrong place.
@@AmreSupply Thank you for replying, How will i know if its in the wrong place its all cokor coded and i plugged them in exactly as they were. I also noticed when it says preheat i hear a clicking sound too.
@@AsYouWish0507 If you have the same board and the wires are in the same place then it should work the same. As a double check you could trace the wires back to the heating elements. The relays are sometimes labeled so you can use that to verify.
The clicking sound will happen anytime the relay turns on and off. That will happen during a pre-heat or when the oven is heating / cycling.
Has anything else changed during the installation?
Tgg😊gg@@AsYouWish0507
How to change cooker fuse
Thanks for watching. You can see how to test and replace the fuse in this video: ua-cam.com/video/Ox1lPMJY62U/v-deo.html
Could it just be that we plugged it in incorrectly? When we moved in we cleaned it and unplugged then replugged it
Thanks for watching. The way that the outlet is designed the oven can't be plugged in "wrong" but unplugging it and plugging it back in can help to reset the control board in some cases.
My oven shows F82 what is that for a error code?
Thanks for watching. That is not a very common error code but for some Frigidaire models an F82 can mean that there was a power outage or a short in the control board. Try to do a reset and see if that clears the code.
Since control board problems are hard to narrow down it could still be good to test the temp sensor and check all wire connections into the board first before replacing it.
Cool
Thanks for watching.
If stove Trip which main cause
Thanks for watching. Do you mean that the stove is tripping the breaker?
Damn, was hoping you would test the control board, im hoping the same principles we use to test console PCBs, should be 😬🤔😜
Thanks for watching. Testing the control board can be tricky and is beyond the scope of this series. You are right that similar principles apply to PCBs. Often a capacitor or a fuse can blow, preventing the whole board from working. In other cases a bad relay can just prevent power from going to the heating elements.
Fuse change
Thanks for watching. You can see how to test and replace the fuse in this video: ua-cam.com/video/Ox1lPMJY62U/v-deo.html
My Owen es die it looks like the card has feliare
Thanks for watching. By card do you mean the cord or the control board? The control board has two relays that connect 120V to each terminal of the heating element. If the relay fails or is stuck open then the oven will not heat. Unfortunately the control board can't be easily tested without additional tools or knowledge so in many cases it's just best to install a new control board.
And remember inform customer you are not liable for scratches to flooring.
Thanks for watching. Yes scratches can happen.
a new control board costs like $300 so if that fails then just buy a new oven and save your money.
Thanks for watching. It depends on the cost of replacing the entire oven and that is a decision that each person will need to weigh for themselves.
the only thing I can't find is the thermal fuse 🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️ fml
Thanks for watching. Not all ovens have a thermal fuse. Using your model number, you can search for a parts breakdown on amresupply.com This can tell you if your model uses a thermal fuse or not. In models that don't have a thermal fuse or a high limit switch, the oven sensor will monitor for overheating and the control board will disconnect power as needed.
our samsung range would not go past 269 degrees on 350 bake. everything on cooktop works fine, clock is fine. The first time I unplugged from wall removed the back check all connections tested all of the components and found no problems. I took the control board out and went over it with a magnifying glass, no visible problems not even one cat hair on it. put it all back together it worked fine for several days and then did it again. I repeated the entire process again and it worked for a few days. 3rd time unplugged all connections to the elements temp sensor and board. got a few more days out of it 4th time only unplugged the control board and it worked for over 2 months. I am going to do it today for the 8th time. It doesn't bother me that much but my wife is getting fed up with it. has any body else had this happen?
Thanks for watching. From what you're describing it is likely a faulty temperature sensor. If the resistance is low then the control board will think that the oven is hotter than it actually is. We have a dedicated video showing how to test and install a new one: ua-cam.com/video/jnt_mUwdL8o/v-deo.html
As well if you need a new sensor you can use the model lookup tool to narrow it down: www.amresupply.com/lookup
What should I investigate if the stove top and oven does not work but the display does?
Thanks for watching. In this case you have partial power. 120V is being sent to the control board but there's likely an issue with the 2nd line of power as the heating elements need both 120V lines to work properly: ua-cam.com/video/wZwxewn2w44/v-deo.html
@@AmreSupply Thank you for the quick reply! Looks like there was a loose wire in the outlet. Your videos have been very helpful :)
@@whsc9515 We're just happy to help!!