Actually you are correct by my experience. I saw some of their corporate literature on changing classical guitar strings. It had very nice graphics, but their string tying method would give results that looked like a kindergartener did it. Good luck with getting that mess to stay in tune. Glad I could help you and good luck!
Depending on the design of the slots in the headstock, that may not be necessary. If the string’s angle from the nut to the roller makes it run up against the head, experiment with your “opposite” thinking. Thx for watching.
I use D'Addario "Pro Arte - Normal Tension" with "Nylon Trebles". In recent months, I have been experimenting with "Carbon Fiber" trebles. I have noticed that these CF trebles require three wraps instead of two at the bridge. They are really slippery!!!
May I ask how long the high E string should be when I put the string on it ? I am very uncertain of the length for the High E string, and even broke it twice.(left a scar on the soundbox) Now I have the High e string emptied and only play on the 23456 ones. Thanks
I’ll add that for decades I have used only “Nylon” classical guitar strings. I recently started experimenting with “Carbon Fiber” strings for the Trebles (1st E, 2nd B, 3rd G). I have concluded that these Slippery Little Devils are even more Slippery than their nylon cousins. If you review my tying method at the Bridge, it does not seem to work with the high E for Carbon Fiber versions. I have encountered the High E slipping out of the knot on nearly every occasion and every guitar that I have used them. My fix is this: use 3 ties on the high E instead of 2. This has allowed me to get an equivalent Pitch Stability with carbon Fiber trebles on the High E that my method has always given me as long as you also pay close attention to the method used up at the tuning pegs.
The loosely wound end of all three wound strings (6th, 5th , 4th) is supposed to go around the bridge, not the headstock. The looser winding is designed to make it easier for the string to wrap around the sharper bends at the bridge. Everything you do is wrong!
A string installation method based on “ease of installation” seems to me to be “close but no cigar”. I want the best sound possible from the guitar I play. Those loose windings don’t transfer maximum vibration through the saddle into the bridge & ultimately to the face of the guitar. //// Secondly, putting a part of the string with that lack of structural integrity at a point of extreme tension is a great starting point for string breakage. /// Thirdly, loose string windings at the bridge do not provide maximum pitch stability. I also like to play my guitar. Not tune it. Thx
If you have a string breaking, odds are they have been on the guitar for awhile. If it’s a steel-string guitar, you could change al six in one sitting. Might take a day or two to stay in tune. /// If it’s a Classical Guitar, I would change one string a day, along the lines of my other UA-cam video, “When to change Classical Guitar strings”. Good luck and thx for the question!
Great video-- shows close ups with clear explanations at a slow enough pace to actually follow. Thank you :D
You’re welcome !
thanks! the guitar i got as a gift had rusty strings and im a beginner so this was helpful :)
Thank you so much for this video!
Thanks, Chris. Now I know the right way to do this, because Yamaha didn't come close.
Actually you are correct by my experience. I saw some of their corporate literature on changing classical guitar strings. It had very nice graphics, but their string tying method would give results that looked like a kindergartener did it. Good luck with getting that mess to stay in tune. Glad I could help you and good luck!
Should I do the opposite at the headstock in order to get the strings going in the direction of the inside of the headstock?
Depending on the design of the slots in the headstock, that may not be necessary. If the string’s angle from the nut to the roller makes it run up against the head, experiment with your “opposite” thinking. Thx for watching.
@@ChrisAndersonSixesMusic Ok thanks for the reply!!
Which strings do you use in the video? Thanks!
I use D'Addario "Pro Arte - Normal Tension" with "Nylon Trebles". In recent months, I have been experimenting with "Carbon Fiber" trebles. I have noticed that these CF trebles require three wraps instead of two at the bridge. They are really slippery!!!
Thank you! 💜
May I ask how long the high E string should be when I put the string on it ?
I am very uncertain of the length for the High E string, and even broke it twice.(left a scar on the soundbox)
Now I have the High e string emptied and only play on the 23456 ones. Thanks
Can I ask what type of Classical Guitar strings you are using? Not what brand, what type? Specifically are they nylon or carbon fiber?
I’ll add that for decades I have used only “Nylon” classical guitar strings. I recently started experimenting with “Carbon Fiber” strings for the Trebles (1st E, 2nd B, 3rd G). I have concluded that these Slippery Little Devils are even more Slippery than their nylon cousins. If you review my tying method at the Bridge, it does not seem to work with the high E for Carbon Fiber versions. I have encountered the High E slipping out of the knot on nearly every occasion and every guitar that I have used them. My fix is this: use 3 ties on the high E instead of 2. This has allowed me to get an equivalent Pitch Stability with carbon Fiber trebles on the High E that my method has always given me as long as you also pay close attention to the method used up at the tuning pegs.
The loosely wound end of all three wound strings (6th, 5th , 4th) is supposed to go around the bridge, not the headstock. The looser winding is designed to make it easier for the string to wrap around the sharper bends at the bridge. Everything you do is wrong!
A string installation method based on “ease of installation” seems to me to be “close but no cigar”. I want the best sound possible from the guitar I play. Those loose windings don’t transfer maximum vibration through the saddle into the bridge & ultimately to the face of the guitar. //// Secondly, putting a part of the string with that lack of structural integrity at a point of extreme tension is a great starting point for string breakage. /// Thirdly, loose string windings at the bridge do not provide maximum pitch stability.
I also like to play my guitar. Not tune it.
Thx
Muy buena explicación... esa roseta se me hace familiar.
Thank you!
i have a question , if a string breaks should you change all of them , or only one ?
If you have a string breaking, odds are they have been on the guitar for awhile. If it’s a steel-string guitar, you could change al six in one sitting. Might take a day or two to stay in tune. /// If it’s a Classical Guitar, I would change one string a day, along the lines of my other UA-cam video, “When to change Classical Guitar strings”. Good luck and thx for the question!