What is the fascination with Rapido trains?s I think they are way overpriced for a piece of plastic. I'd much rather spend the same amount and get a nice brass locomotive that will still be here long after I'm gone. Then I don't do DCC as I hate the tinny sound of HO DCC. If I want loco sounds I'll just turn on the stereo and toot on my wooden whistles. Do you paint brass models for folks? Cheers from eastern TN
Great video and demonstrates how much care and patience you need to take apart and repaint these locos. I can't wait to get the two bloody nose versions of mine that you have right now being repainted in the Pittsburg & Shawmut scheme.
What’s the best way to get custom decals made/make them yourself for models? Is there a software system that can be used, or do you get the decals from the customer?
I get my custom decals from Fusion Scale Graphics. I just submit the artwork in .png form. If the customer doesn't have graphic, I can generally design them.
They are glued from the inside, much like Proto 2000 windows. I used an Exacto knife and carefully wedged it between the glazing and the inside cab wall. Used a little help from a small screwdriver too.
Nicely done. What strength alcohol did you use and how long did you let it soak? Would you know if Genesis models can be stripped the same way? Thanks.
I always use 91%. The paint will come off with some scrubbing after a few hours but if you leave it overnight you can practically sneeze it off. Just stripped a Genesis model and it worked fine.
@@QNERailroad Ha, that seems to be the opposite of my experience. This one took a few hours but the genesis I'm working on took what felt like 2 seconds.
Take a look at the GP38-2's. Body is glued to the walkways. Cab interior is snug fit or glued in or there some kind of one way tab that doesn't let you remove the cab. Sliding cab windows also appear to be glued in the open position. Very frustrating. Any suggestions?
@@QNERailroad I generally never take the walkways off unless they decide to come off on their own. I'd poke at the tabs that hold the cab in with a screw driver until they come loose. Sometimes there might be a screw. I remove the piece of the cab wall that holds the sliding windows in when I strip the paint so maybe you can unstick them then.
I find that undecorated ones sell out very fast. So, unless you know what you want when they first get released you have to settle for what is available at time of purchase. For example, I only see one of the DCC bloody nose schemes for sale right now on eBay and it is painted in the Southern Pacific colors.
Awesome repaint! Reminds me of when I painted my blaxland diesels back in the day.. very nice work!
What is the fascination with Rapido trains?s I think they are way overpriced for a piece of plastic. I'd much rather spend the same amount and get a nice brass locomotive that will still be here long after I'm gone. Then I don't do DCC as I hate the tinny sound of HO DCC. If I want loco sounds I'll just turn on the stereo and toot on my wooden whistles. Do you paint brass models for folks? Cheers from eastern TN
What strength of Isopropyl alcohol did you use for the stripping paint? Very Good.Thanks !
Awesome job that much detail and time and effort on your behalf to share thank you
In the future can you make a SD40-2 Crazy 8888 CSX locomotive.
Incredible Patience and Amazing work. Wow. 👍🏼👍🏼 I have 2 of these in the Conrail Paint scheme and Love em, the sound is amazing.
Great video and demonstrates how much care and patience you need to take apart and repaint these locos. I can't wait to get the two bloody nose versions of mine that you have right now being repainted in the Pittsburg & Shawmut scheme.
This definately has the wow factor. You've done a great job, nice to see and thank you for sharing
Well done. Thanks for sharing.
What a nightmare.
so can we use a spray paint can to actually paint? Or do we have to have an airbrush?
I used Testors and Tamiya spray cans on my first model. Just use light coats.
OMG
Can’t wait for this one!
What’s the best way to get custom decals made/make them yourself for models? Is there a software system that can be used, or do you get the decals from the customer?
I get my custom decals from Fusion Scale Graphics. I just submit the artwork in .png form. If the customer doesn't have graphic, I can generally design them.
can we get a vid on those caltrain cars?
Does that stuff really work to strip paint?
Thanks for the video. Did you mean to return the front headlight upside down when reassembling?
Yes I did. The position of the headlight and gyralights are opposite on each end.
How did you get the windows off? Mine appear to be welded on.
They are glued from the inside, much like Proto 2000 windows. I used an Exacto knife and carefully wedged it between the glazing and the inside cab wall. Used a little help from a small screwdriver too.
Tip of the hat 🎩
Nicely done. What strength alcohol did you use and how long did you let it soak? Would you know if Genesis models can be stripped the same way? Thanks.
I always use 91%. The paint will come off with some scrubbing after a few hours but if you leave it overnight you can practically sneeze it off. Just stripped a Genesis model and it worked fine.
Thanks. I just wish the Genesis units would come apart as easily as the Rapido's. Everything's glued together!
@@QNERailroad Ha, that seems to be the opposite of my experience. This one took a few hours but the genesis I'm working on took what felt like 2 seconds.
Take a look at the GP38-2's. Body is glued to the walkways. Cab interior is snug fit or glued in or there some kind of one way tab that doesn't let you remove the cab. Sliding cab windows also appear to be glued in the open position. Very frustrating. Any suggestions?
@@QNERailroad I generally never take the walkways off unless they decide to come off on their own. I'd poke at the tabs that hold the cab in with a screw driver until they come loose. Sometimes there might be a screw. I remove the piece of the cab wall that holds the sliding windows in when I strip the paint so maybe you can unstick them then.
I love both looks
Why you didn't buy the unpainted one ?
This was for a customer, he supplied me with this one. I might be wrong but I think he got it through a trade.
I find that undecorated ones sell out very fast. So, unless you know what you want when they first get released you have to settle for what is available at time of purchase. For example, I only see one of the DCC bloody nose schemes for sale right now on eBay and it is painted in the Southern Pacific colors.