Dont sweat the shit talkers man, you did a great job to identify the problem and you found the evidence of the problem and fixed it. Thanks for your efforts to make such a video.
Rod knock usually happens as you back off on the throttle, a sharp high pitched rattle, it subsides when you bump the throttle or when it's backing off a higher rpm...it's that floating neutral point that makes the rod rattle.
I have engine knock. This ONLY started to happen after getting new timing belt, timing belt tensioner and bearings. I mean 5 day's later from running great. I rang place i had work done and they said no way it's the tensioner as it's so easy to install. I say BS to that. They said bring it in but i know how that goes, they say no not tensioner but spun bearings and want to charge you just to check and then rebuild whole thing
At first it just seemed like piston slap. Hearing how it changed when you applied pressure on the timing tensioner sounds promising. I hope this ends well man.
So my 01' forester has been making this sound. Check engine light was on for like a month, so I kept an eye on the fluids, and then went and had the computer/code reader read and only found out it needed a knock sensor. So I replaced that and now need to figure out what is ACTUALLY causing it to knock!
Thanks Bludog, very helpful compare! My 2000 2.5 developed ~same noise suddenly while at highway speed well away from home with slight surge. Refueled, topped 1 qt oil and drove 200 miles home at 50 mph - not much change, minor power loss, no light, no oil loss, exhaust tune different. Will pull the cover, change tensioner and belt, post results. Warning: car would hardly run after cooling down moving off-street.
Great video! I'm dealing with some sort of this same noise on my 08 impreza. Can't figure it out for nothing. Spark is good, injectors are good. Replaced coil, plug wires, plugs & ohm checked everything, including injectors. Mine sounds almost identical to yours...
I feel that’s a bit of an exaggeration. I’ve replied to almost everyone every time they asked what it was. And even if you did read every comment, it’s not like there are several hundred to comb through.
Our Subaru Forester was always noisy as all hell until it warmed up. Yours doesnt quiet down at all. Sounds like a piston slap to me. that or a rod knock. I am going with rod knock. We owned the 2010 Forester. The more it warms up, the more I am convinced its a rod. Its not going to knock onthe instroke as much as the out stroke. The rod damage could have happened at a time when someone let the oil get low. It only had to happen once. The AMC engines were famous for rod knock. Especially the 305's. I tryed blowing mine up by rodding the shit out of it but it refused to blow up. I replaced the engine with a Jeep engine and that was the end of that. We turned the engine over by hand and man you could really hear the rod bouncing around. It should have thrown out the side of the engine but never did.
Hey man i got the same problem but my engine light comes on for a 5 to 10 minutes and after cut off .... and makes that knocking noise ..need help plz any tips other than the rattling
You did another video wich i cant find you fixed the problem and you said it was a loose cam pulley right? But you also change the timing belt tensioner or not?
Question, i have a 2003 wrx that has the same exact sound, read you found it to be a loose pulley bolt. Is this the same for my car? Also since it was just loose, all you had to do is tighten and thay fixed your issue? No more knocking? Wondering how the loose pulley would cause a knock
Your engine is actually a bit different than mine. A wrx is a turbo and I believe the 2003 had a 2.0 twin cam. So your issue could be the timing belt tensioner or it could be rod knock. How many miles are on it and when was the timing belt last replaced?
I've been hearing about the oil pressure swtiches/sensors. 2-4 of them depending on the engine size. Anyone try these? They're easy looking to replace, my 06 outback I just got for free makes this knocking noise too, the previous owner said he has been driving it for two years like this :0 anyway, near where my knock is coming from the area where one of the oil pressure things has been jb welded together, guessing I'll need a new valve cover to fix it right but I'm not sure that's the issue either. They could have plugged the hole with the weld or something, it doesn't leak and it's not loose so...idk. interesting the tensioner and idler didn't fix yours after your lever test. Thanks for the video! I'll check back see if anyone has had any more luck...lots of people asking, but not many answers.
No. I’ve stated in several comments now that it was a loose cam pulley. Unless your engine has been recently apart, it is probably not the timing belt tensioner.
It really depends bud. This particular noise ended up being a loose cam gear which I can almost assure you isn’t your problem. This engine was recently rebuilt and the noise was a result of a mistake made by me when I was assembling the engine. I would look at the timing belt tensioner and/or have a mechanic you trust diagnose it. It could also be piston slap or rod knock. It’s difficult to tell without actually hearing it.
@@BluDog35 I trust me But yeah I got no clue what’s going on I got the car for free but it’s auto so yeah I guess I’ll see if it blows up before I can get it rebuilt
@@BluDog35 I could just be paranoid about having Freddy Mercury singing away in the ej255 If’en you got some footage or can find some of up close and personal normal noises Oh and god dam you got your self a sub
@@johnsontrucks8806 is this your first Subaru? They’re always a bit noisey. Try using a mechanics stethoscope to isolate where the sound might be. I can’t even begin to tell you how valuable a stethoscope has been in my diagnosing things. Also, thanks a bunch for the sub! I can’t promise much actual car stuff for the future. I’ve lost my garage since these videos and the area I moved to don’t like it when you work on cars on the street. Haha. Doesn’t stop me.
Vehicle is manual transmission. There is no flex plate. Also this video is like 5 years old. The issue was a loose cam pulley as stated in SEVERAL other comments. Issue is fixed. Engine is still running fine.
@@aka._ag Well. As it is really freezing cold Temps at least the last few days.. my conclusion, is, that "maybe Subarus really do just do this." You have that borderline rod knock sound at start, gets "better" somewhat quickly, WILL eventually go away mostly, sometimes run with a tap or tick sound. My conclusion is that I will likely try a product called "BG EPR #109" (BG Engine Performance Restoration, part number 109) from Amazon as a superior engineered engine flush, as I'm still convinced that MAYBE the oil pump and/or "one oil passage" (read: One cylinder) is either partially clogged or marginal.. that works greatly help any oil flowing. I have tried a variety of oils and they all act pretty much the same. Still haven't ruled out the possibility that it won't make that sound on higher octane fuel. My conclusion so far is.. "Keep at it, 82 KID. Your engine sounds broken and REALLY bad on cold mornings for about 30 seconds to a minute but it goes away, maybe it's piston slap, maybe you need to take it to a speed shop for mods lol, just keep running it kind of hard to keep it clean and don't recline it until it's hotter than ice cold, act like you have the BMW with the RPM to temperature guide." :) - 82 KID with the Legacy Outback, 2002 EJ251. She goes kind of fast when she is warm.
@WTF AG I'm also looking forward to new AISIN What is it, TKF-010 ? (I got from Amazon the right one) because it's probably the TB Tensioner, as mentioned. Mine are just speculations and guesses. Maddening, I know.
It depends on what it is. If it is rod knock, then you will eventually need a new engine. If it is the timing belt tensioner, You'll need to have the timing belt and hardware done along with the water pump. If it is a loose cam pulley like it turned out to be for me, then your fix would only cost whatever time you spend tearing it down to tighten it. But that's probably not your issue. In this video, the engine was newly rebuilt and I had forgotten to apply thread locker to the cam pulley bolt. It ended up working itself loose and was making the loudest knock.
My engine is newly rebuilt aswell. I’m not too knowledgeable on engines quite yet lol. I also have a p0011 code and it says knocking is a symptom so I’m thinking this could be around the same problem
I would definately get it looked at. Check ALL the timing gear. Especially if it wasn't replaced when the engine was rebuilt. I did my rebuild myself and replaced almost everything. so the issue in the end was my own fault. But the good news is that it is still running. This video was actually posted 3 years and one month ago. lol
@@BluDog35 no turbo. Its has 220,000 miles on it. I'm trying to figure this car out. I've heard the horror stories and willing to assume its had head gaskets replaced but internet is so vague on this being one of the models with bad head gaskets...
@@amethystaquariusglendagree1070 it very well could be. But if it’s got 220k miles and isn’t overheating or anything I wouldn’t be worried about head gaskets. I’d be more concerned about when the timing belt was last done. Service interval is 100k miles or so.
Dont sweat the shit talkers man, you did a great job to identify the problem and you found the evidence of the problem and fixed it. Thanks for your efforts to make such a video.
Rod knock usually happens as you back off on the throttle, a sharp high pitched rattle, it subsides when you bump the throttle or when it's backing off a higher rpm...it's that floating neutral point that makes the rod rattle.
Yep! Sounds like fast spray paint cans rattling when you back it off, kind of like a saw-zall. Not good.
10W- 30 full synthetic with a quart of Lucas full synthetic instead of that 0W-20 worked miracles for me.
People are pinecones...
Super helpful video. Casually showing most of the steps necessary to fully diagnose most weird engine sounds.
Most people seem to not know that “engine knock” can take many forms.
PLEASE KEEP MAKING VIDEOS, i just learned alot
i only watched for one minute and you made me laugh in that short of a time so i definitely think that deserves another subscriber
Thanks bud. Appreciate it greatly! The channel has been a bit all over the place lately in terms of content. But I hope you enjoy your stay.
So what is the final conclusion? Was it the tensioner or another timing component?
I have engine knock. This ONLY started to happen after getting new timing belt, timing belt tensioner and bearings. I mean 5 day's later from running great.
I rang place i had work done and they said no way it's the tensioner as it's so easy to install.
I say BS to that.
They said bring it in but i know how that goes, they say no not tensioner but spun bearings and want to charge you just to check and then rebuild whole thing
That's why you do it yourself! It's easy enough if you can follow instructions. Plus you save a ton of money.
At first it just seemed like piston slap. Hearing how it changed when you applied pressure on the timing tensioner sounds promising. I hope this ends well man.
Homebrew Subaru me too bud. New update video uploading now.
So my 01' forester has been making this sound. Check engine light was on for like a month, so I kept an eye on the fluids, and then went and had the computer/code reader read and only found out it needed a knock sensor. So I replaced that and now need to figure out what is ACTUALLY causing it to knock!
Thanks Bludog, very helpful compare! My 2000 2.5 developed ~same noise suddenly while at highway speed well away from home with slight surge. Refueled, topped 1 qt oil and drove 200 miles home at 50 mph - not much change, minor power loss, no light, no oil loss, exhaust tune different. Will pull the cover, change tensioner and belt, post results. Warning: car would hardly run after cooling down moving off-street.
Great video! I'm dealing with some sort of this same noise on my 08 impreza. Can't figure it out for nothing. Spark is good, injectors are good. Replaced coil, plug wires, plugs & ohm checked everything, including injectors.
Mine sounds almost identical to yours...
Mine turned out to be a loose cam pulley. Could have been bad.
Im hearing the same thing. After i drive when in idle sounds like that, give it gas goes away. I hear it bad inside the car.
For the record, his issue was a loose passenger side cam pully.
Read damn near every comment to finger it out.
I feel that’s a bit of an exaggeration. I’ve replied to almost everyone every time they asked what it was.
And even if you did read every comment, it’s not like there are several hundred to comb through.
So ended up being a rod knocking?
Really good video bud!
00:29-00:31 is that a crazy taxi logo?
Rafael Varela yes
I didn’t know that Pizza Hut made motors.
I have the exact noise for my 2002 subaru impreza wrx 2.0....hope this is the same issue
Our Subaru Forester was always noisy as all hell until it warmed up. Yours doesnt quiet down at all. Sounds like a piston slap to me. that or a rod knock. I am going with rod knock. We owned the 2010 Forester. The more it warms up, the more I am convinced its a rod. Its not going to knock onthe instroke as much as the out stroke. The rod damage could have happened at a time when someone let the oil get low. It only had to happen once. The AMC engines were famous for rod knock. Especially the 305's. I tryed blowing mine up by rodding the shit out of it but it refused to blow up. I replaced the engine with a Jeep engine and that was the end of that. We turned the engine over by hand and man you could really hear the rod bouncing around. It should have thrown out the side of the engine but never did.
Rod knock is way louder than this
Sounds like cam noise to me
Hey man i got the same problem but my engine light comes on for a 5 to 10 minutes and after cut off .... and makes that knocking noise ..need help plz any tips other than the rattling
did u fix it?
You did another video wich i cant find you fixed the problem and you said it was a loose cam pulley right? But you also change the timing belt tensioner or not?
I did not change the tensioner. The knocking was a loose cam pulley.
Did the knocking came back to this day?
@@luisrosado1448 no. It was the loose cam pulley. I tightened it and that was it.
Question, i have a 2003 wrx that has the same exact sound, read you found it to be a loose pulley bolt. Is this the same for my car? Also since it was just loose, all you had to do is tighten and thay fixed your issue? No more knocking? Wondering how the loose pulley would cause a knock
Your engine is actually a bit different than mine. A wrx is a turbo and I believe the 2003 had a 2.0 twin cam. So your issue could be the timing belt tensioner or it could be rod knock. How many miles are on it and when was the timing belt last replaced?
I've been hearing about the oil pressure swtiches/sensors. 2-4 of them depending on the engine size. Anyone try these? They're easy looking to replace, my 06 outback I just got for free makes this knocking noise too, the previous owner said he has been driving it for two years like this :0 anyway, near where my knock is coming from the area where one of the oil pressure things has been jb welded together, guessing I'll need a new valve cover to fix it right but I'm not sure that's the issue either. They could have plugged the hole with the weld or something, it doesn't leak and it's not loose so...idk. interesting the tensioner and idler didn't fix yours after your lever test. Thanks for the video! I'll check back see if anyone has had any more luck...lots of people asking, but not many answers.
What did it turn out to be?
The passenger side cam pulley was loose. Big whoops on my part. But I got it sorted. Made a video about it a while back. Sorry for the late reply.
wait wtf I need to try this on my subaru now!:O
Was the knock the timing tichenor
No. I’ve stated in several comments now that it was a loose cam pulley. Unless your engine has been recently apart, it is probably not the timing belt tensioner.
hey I've got a 2004 xt forester that started making a noise like this one any advice is it worth saving a new engine is like 3k
It really depends bud. This particular noise ended up being a loose cam gear which I can almost assure you isn’t your problem. This engine was recently rebuilt and the noise was a result of a mistake made by me when I was assembling the engine. I would look at the timing belt tensioner and/or have a mechanic you trust diagnose it. It could also be piston slap or rod knock. It’s difficult to tell without actually hearing it.
@@BluDog35 I trust me
But yeah I got no clue what’s going on I got the car for free but it’s auto so yeah I guess I’ll see if it blows up before I can get it rebuilt
@@johnsontrucks8806 hey man, free fozzy? That’s bad ass. I’d take a free automatic forester any day. Engine issues or not.
@@BluDog35 I could just be paranoid about having Freddy Mercury singing away in the ej255
If’en you got some footage or can find some of up close and personal normal noises
Oh and god dam you got your self a sub
@@johnsontrucks8806 is this your first Subaru? They’re always a bit noisey. Try using a mechanics stethoscope to isolate where the sound might be. I can’t even begin to tell you how valuable a stethoscope has been in my diagnosing things. Also, thanks a bunch for the sub! I can’t promise much actual car stuff for the future. I’ve lost my garage since these videos and the area I moved to don’t like it when you work on cars on the street. Haha. Doesn’t stop me.
FLEX PLATE IS LOOSE OR CRACKED
Vehicle is manual transmission. There is no flex plate.
Also this video is like 5 years old. The issue was a loose cam pulley as stated in SEVERAL other comments. Issue is fixed. Engine is still running fine.
I need help
You can also use a really long screwdriver as a stethoscope. Just be careful.
Mine goes away when it warms up.
Mine also does, what was your conclusion?
@@aka._ag Well. As it is really freezing cold Temps at least the last few days.. my conclusion, is, that "maybe Subarus really do just do this." You have that borderline rod knock sound at start, gets "better" somewhat quickly, WILL eventually go away mostly, sometimes run with a tap or tick sound. My conclusion is that I will likely try a product called "BG EPR #109" (BG Engine Performance Restoration, part number 109) from Amazon as a superior engineered engine flush, as I'm still convinced that MAYBE the oil pump and/or "one oil passage" (read: One cylinder) is either partially clogged or marginal.. that works greatly help any oil flowing. I have tried a variety of oils and they all act pretty much the same.
Still haven't ruled out the possibility that it won't make that sound on higher octane fuel. My conclusion so far is.. "Keep at it, 82 KID. Your engine sounds broken and REALLY bad on cold mornings for about 30 seconds to a minute but it goes away, maybe it's piston slap, maybe you need to take it to a speed shop for mods lol, just keep running it kind of hard to keep it clean and don't recline it until it's hotter than ice cold, act like you have the BMW with the RPM to temperature guide." :)
- 82 KID with the Legacy Outback, 2002 EJ251. She goes kind of fast when she is warm.
@WTF AG I'm also looking forward to new AISIN What is it, TKF-010 ? (I got from Amazon the right one) because it's probably the TB Tensioner, as mentioned. Mine are just speculations and guesses. Maddening, I know.
Mine is ten times worse but this is the closest I've found...when I accelerate it goes away...idling it sounds like its dying
Thanks for the video
ever figure this out??
If yours goes away like that, then your better change out your timing belt pulleys inside the cover, BEFORE your really mess the engine up!
@@TheLRGrider was this to me? or the original poster
Both of you, I guess
Any idea on the cost to fix this? I think I’m having the exact same problem
It depends on what it is. If it is rod knock, then you will eventually need a new engine. If it is the timing belt tensioner, You'll need to have the timing belt and hardware done along with the water pump. If it is a loose cam pulley like it turned out to be for me, then your fix would only cost whatever time you spend tearing it down to tighten it. But that's probably not your issue. In this video, the engine was newly rebuilt and I had forgotten to apply thread locker to the cam pulley bolt. It ended up working itself loose and was making the loudest knock.
My engine is newly rebuilt aswell. I’m not too knowledgeable on engines quite yet lol. I also have a p0011 code and it says knocking is a symptom so I’m thinking this could be around the same problem
I would definately get it looked at. Check ALL the timing gear. Especially if it wasn't replaced when the engine was rebuilt. I did my rebuild myself and replaced almost everything. so the issue in the end was my own fault. But the good news is that it is still running. This video was actually posted 3 years and one month ago. lol
@@BluDog35 thanks man I appreciate it👍🏻
What model is this and yr?
This is a 2001 Forester with the 2.5L EJ251 engine.
@@BluDog35 thanks. I might have missed it. I have a 2000 model legacy gt limited and I'm learning about these Subaru's.
@@amethystaquariusglendagree1070 it should have a very similar engine that is mechanically identical unless it’s a turbo.
@@BluDog35 no turbo. Its has 220,000 miles on it. I'm trying to figure this car out. I've heard the horror stories and willing to assume its had head gaskets replaced but internet is so vague on this being one of the models with bad head gaskets...
@@amethystaquariusglendagree1070 it very well could be. But if it’s got 220k miles and isn’t overheating or anything I wouldn’t be worried about head gaskets. I’d be more concerned about when the timing belt was last done. Service interval is 100k miles or so.