I am an eighteen year old in college far from ever buying a house or owning any of these tools. Why am I watching this? Who knows, but man this was so pleasant to watch and I loved the little part with the "project manager" hahaha. I'm subscribed, can't wait to watch your other videos!
Made 2 barn doors using your construction technique. It worked great. Love the pocket screw construction. That and some glue makes a tight indestructible joint. Hardest part is finding enough straight and halfway true lumber. Thanks for the video.
Turned out great! I built a sliding door a few years back, and I added a round, pocket door pull to the back side. It is a nice solution for something to grab onto to open it from the other side, without worrying about it hitting the door facing.
Well done, I think the location of the door is ideal. Personably im not the biggest fan of the back (kitchen side) how ever I imagine the door will be open 99% of the time and is pretty much just an aesthetic item.
Yeah Wabi I agree! Not a huge fan of the back either but it will always be open unless we're in the dining room. One of the downfalls of using T&G boards i'm afraid!
Door looks great! I’m happy that I watched your video. I was considering T&G but after seeing the other side I’m not sure I want to use that. The side with the hardware looks beautiful though!! Love the idea of using a header. I’d rather have that even if my boards were 16” oc
turned out amazing !! I have been looking into a set for the house I bought !! The living room and dining room are connected and basically open, currently with really ugly and out of date wood work that has began to chip. But there was no way I way paying 700+ for a pair of doors ! I am going to do them myself now, thanks for the great idea !
Just wanted to say thinks for making this video. I was able to build a custom door for our laundry room that my wife and friends loved. I am now building a larger one that's 10' wife by 7' tall with this game design. The first was awesome!
Awesome build and design! A bard door, 36w X 84h is $526 at Home Depot. Thanks to you two, I will build my own now. Thank you for this great video! Cheers from Michigan!
Lowes now have a door 36x 84 door kit that's 179.00 Its a hollow door that's super light weight and its molded to look like a barn door and its painted white . It has every thing you need in the kit .
I was mostly done before I looked at your Video. Door was already made from Pallet wood I did it myself, as well as hung rail on my own WHAT A CHORE!!! However on the hanging of door I wasn't sure of specs for rollers and floor guide. You answered those questions for me Thank you...
I must admit, I watched the install part of your Video a few times to make sure I did it right... Thank you for your informative and easy to understand Video.
just completed my door using your plan. it came out awesome. measurements are a little off the door ends up being 38 inches wide. and the central boards are about 31 inches i believe.
It looks like those black lag screws provided with the track for the barn door are long enough to go through the spacers and into the studs. However, since you mounted that header/ledger board, wouldn’t you be going through that board And into the sheet rock with nothing behind it? What I’m trying to say is that wouldn’t sure black leg screws be better for this application?
Does the door scrape against or bang up the baseboards? Did you put a guide on the inside to prevent that from happening? Project came out fantastic, btw. I'm going to try n copy this basically step for step
Just saw this on r/diy today. You did a fantastic job on the door, and a great job creating a video that was enjoyable to watch. Keep up the excellent work!
Looks great, and I really like the detail that you go into for those with no carpentry experience, but maybe an architrave for a little more soundproofing/air flow seal between rooms?
thanks! the room isn't closed off (opens into living room) so airflow really shouldn't be a problem. soundproofing isn't really necessary either as we're in one room or the other, but not a bad idea!
How big is the gap between the back of the door and the wall? I'm planning on building one like this, but need to minimize the gap because of the noise from the laundry room. Nice build.
hey kent it's about an inch and a quarter off the wall. it does block some noise but not all. keep in mind i'm using a header that pushes out the door another 3/4". you may also consider getting a longer rail and making the door wider to help with the noise. hope that helps!
your door turned out great! simple, yet classic look! I'll be building one similar to yours soon. I do not like the Black door guide in the floor though. it sticks out like a sore thumb to me. I don't think i would add that feature on mine being I will have a 44" door it may do fine without the guide.
Things moved fast, did you only glue and staple? I am not sure that holds enough, I glue and screw. My son says I dont need to screw , just glue and staple...what is best? Thank you Paul
Bested by a lid =p Love these doors, so much better than swing doors for various reasons in my experience. One can't lets say put a plant behind a swing door and see the plant of the door is open. One could put a dresser or some other furniture in front of a swing door, etc. Thank you so much for sharing!
Love this project and I plan on trying to build one for myself. Question for you, do you think its possible to rip the front and back piece of the tongue and groove boards with a circular saw after you've nailed them into the frame, provided there's enough clearance? I ask because the only tool I don't have is a table saw and I'm trying to see if there's another way around it.
Door came out SWEEEEET! So correct me if I'm wrong...the header is bolted to the studs and the track is bolted to the header? The lag screws for the track ( black screws) ARE NOT bolted to the studs at all? The reason I ask is bcuz my studs aren't 16" OC. Thanks.
I have the same problem with straight cuts! I wish I'd had clamps to clamp my straight edge down when I was in woodworking class back in the 90s. It would have made it so much easier bc I always ended up moving it when trying to draw a straight line. LOL. We didn't have a speed square in the class for some reason. Nice tutorial. The hardware seems nice. The stain color is beautiful!
When mounting your rail, did any of your lag screws that came with the door actually hit studs? I know your mounting board hit studs, but couldn’t the rail just pull out of that mounting board if it’s only going through your thin mounting board and then just into dry wall?
Hey Andy yes it hit one or two studs. Since the header is bolted into the studs and the weight of the door is pulling down and not out i'm not concerned about the thickness of the board. It feels very safe and secure. Hope that answers your question!
DIYwithRick awesome thanks. I am mounting a 51” door and was concerned about weight. My rail also come predrilled with 16” holes apart. I don’t know if my studs will line up or not. I got a 1x6 header just to be safe
ive installed many of these and one thing i would say to be careful with is leveling the header. If your floor is not level then it might rub the ground when it rolls. easy fix is to raise the door a little
Man that turned out great! Just discovered your channel definitely worth a sub for sure! I love rustic projects as well. Turns out I have quite a few on my channel as well! Again great work on the door really well-made sir!
Really nice. But.. Caution putting screws into carpet. I tore a long thread out of my carpet when the screw caught and left a permanent line across the living room. Wife loved it! 2nd, keep hand back at least the length of the nail you are using in the nail gun. I shot a 2 1/2" nail right through my finger when it hit another nail inside the board and went sideways. Oddly, it didn't hurt as much as you would think.
Great video! Question: So you drill and screw the header into the studs. Then you can place the railing anywhere on the header? How do the railing screws not slip out of the header because they aren't in studs? Thanks again!
you COULD have done a groove for the fins ( the plastic things on the floor ) with yur table saw .... if yu'd planned ahead that would have been very easy to do....
the rough hewn boards you found at Home Depot, did those include the tongue in groove boards as well or did you find those separate from the boards you built the frame out of?
hey andrew the 1x6 T&G were separate from the the rough sawn boards. I'm not sure what aisle in relation to the rough stuff. The T&G had more of a quality somewhere between home depot's common and select boards.
Nice work there Rick, was looking around for a solution for my computer room think this might just be what I was looking for. What is the blue crank device (at 0.40 secs) you use for doing the pre-drills for the pocket screws?
thanks viguy! it's called the kreg jig. there's a full kit for around $99 OR a mini jig for about $20. super easy to use after reading the quickstart guide and creates strong long lasting joints.
Been building these doors with T and G for awhile, much easier man if you layout and put together T and G boards first and then attach outer border next. Also mill down your pine boards with planer, they will be even, less sanding.
Great video. I bought the Kreg jig, what a great tool!! I really found the angle cuts hard. What did you use to get the "57 degrees" I cut the first one perfect, but every time I cut the second angle to fit in I was always perfect if I was 1/4" off the 1x6 frame. It was driving me crazy!
I’m late to the party but I can’t figure out why you cut the tongue and groove off of the boards. It doesn’t seem to go with the rest of the video. How did that help with installation?
Also there is no handle on the other side it seems? And since there is no guide on the back of the door on the bottom it can still bang against the wall right? I know he said it wouldn't but it looks like you could push a little too low on the door and bend shit up top.
If the door were to go into the wall it wouldn't bend the top hardware. It's about 1" to 3/4" off the trim so there's not enough space to really effect the caster/rail. While a channel for the guide would be better, I can open and close the door multiple times with a good amount of force (not trying to keep it off the wall) and it doesn't even come close to the wall. A routed out handle on the back side would be REALLY nice though, once I learn how to use a router.
Rick - Great video very informative and easy to follow! Got my track hardware last night and ready to go...one question. Any suggestions on how to keep the Project Manager off site until after the task is finished?
Hilarious yet very informative and helpful video. I’m taking on basically the same project for the first time tomorrow. Looks like easy money...until it’s me doing it haha.
Great build and instructional video. "Project Manager"... Hilarious. For the channel guide you could consider cutting a piece of trim with the groove, then attach to the bottom edge. Adjust your measurements of the door and trim. For the groove on the trim cut it out with the table saw with multiple passes or use a dado stack blade. Still your door looks great and good job with troubleshooting the door guide.
Because pocket holes screw in an angle you will get movement when you fasten. Use a speed clamp to align the 2 pieces before putting in your screws. Then you won't get that height difference.
any advice on doing this on a bathroom door?? my bedroom is small so to save space i want a slide door, however in not sure how closing the door from the opposite side would work
hey Aidan it's the kreg jig system. Here's a link to my website with all the tools/materials and step by step guide: diywithrick.com/2017/02/26/build-and-install-a-sliding-barn-door/
Do you need some help with the glue ????hahaha...amazing Door!!!
YES I DO!!!
@DIYwithRick how did this door hold up? Looking to start my build soon and like the use of pocket screws.
I am an eighteen year old in college far from ever buying a house or owning any of these tools. Why am I watching this? Who knows, but man this was so pleasant to watch and I loved the little part with the "project manager" hahaha. I'm subscribed, can't wait to watch your other videos!
Thanks Douglas! Really appreciate the kind words man!
Same, here I am binge watching woodworking channels on youtube
Made 2 barn doors using your construction technique. It worked great. Love the pocket screw construction. That and some glue makes a tight indestructible joint. Hardest part is finding enough straight and halfway true lumber. Thanks for the video.
“I’m incapable of making a straight cut...” . Such honesty is refreshing!
I live this life too. Smh. Lol.
“I don’t even exercise”. Fantastic. Quote from an amazing human in a wonderful film!
Turned out great! I built a sliding door a few years back, and I added a round, pocket door pull to the back side. It is a nice solution for something to grab onto to open it from the other side, without worrying about it hitting the door facing.
thanks bruce! that's a GREAT idea, never even thought about that...I'll have to look into those
Well done, I think the location of the door is ideal. Personably im not the biggest fan of the back (kitchen side) how ever I imagine the door will be open 99% of the time and is pretty much just an aesthetic item.
Yeah Wabi I agree! Not a huge fan of the back either but it will always be open unless we're in the dining room. One of the downfalls of using T&G boards i'm afraid!
Door looks great! I’m happy that I watched your video. I was considering T&G but after seeing the other side I’m not sure I want to use that. The side with the hardware looks beautiful though!! Love the idea of using a header. I’d rather have that even if my boards were 16” oc
You made it look so “simple”. I loved it!. Beautiful door. I am very impressed with your design and craftmanship..
turned out amazing !! I have been looking into a set for the house I bought !! The living room and dining room are connected and basically open, currently with really ugly and out of date wood work that has began to chip. But there was no way I way paying 700+ for a pair of doors ! I am going to do them myself now, thanks for the great idea !
Just wanted to say thinks for making this video. I was able to build a custom door for our laundry room that my wife and friends loved. I am now building a larger one that's 10' wife by 7' tall with this game design. The first was awesome!
Awesome build and design! A bard door, 36w X 84h is $526 at Home Depot. Thanks to you two, I will build my own now. Thank you for this great video! Cheers from Michigan!
Lowes now have a door 36x 84 door kit that's 179.00 Its a hollow door that's super light weight and its molded to look like a barn door and its painted white . It has every thing you need in the kit .
Looks great..
Did you say your miter saw wouldn't cut that angle?
Great work on this project bud and the instruction tutorial is nicely done. Keep up the great work.
I was mostly done before I looked at your Video. Door was already made from Pallet wood I did it myself, as well as hung rail on my own WHAT A CHORE!!! However on the hanging of door I wasn't sure of specs for rollers and floor guide. You answered those questions for me Thank you...
Awesome Gregg glad to hear!
I must admit, I watched the install part of your Video a few times to make sure I did it right... Thank you for your informative and easy to understand Video.
You got massive views on your door! Not sure why anyone gave you a thumbs down it is a true diy and came out awesome. Still way more likes!
appreciate that man! it really took off on friday!
Beautiful door. I am very impressed with your design and craftmanship.
Your videos are very well done, the laid back music, the editing, fun to watch, and very informative. Thanks
I’m a fan of the home depot rough pine too. It looks like old barn wood and it’s super cheap. Your project looks great.
MY project manager comes in and I just put my tools down and say, "WHAT?" "You want this done? Get the hell outta here!" lol
hahah
just completed my door using your plan. it came out awesome. measurements are a little off the door ends up being 38 inches wide. and the central boards are about 31 inches i believe.
Awesome! I'd love to see your door if you want to tag or DM me on instagram/twitter/facebook!
I'd love to see some sort of pocket handle for sliding it open from the backside. Beautiful door.
You made it look so “simple”. I loved it!
Just showed your door to the wife. She suggested i router out an oval recess to serve as a handle on ours. Thanks for the great video.
Very slick Rick. Project manager was all business. You're all business. Gave that door the business. None of my business. Great build dudeman.
hahah love your comments
It looks like those black lag screws provided with the track for the barn door are long enough to go through the spacers and into the studs. However, since you mounted that header/ledger board, wouldn’t you be going through that board And into the sheet rock with nothing behind it? What I’m trying to say is that wouldn’t sure black leg screws be better for this application?
Finally, a installation video that makes sense. Great clip!
Does the door scrape against or bang up the baseboards? Did you put a guide on the inside to prevent that from happening?
Project came out fantastic, btw. I'm going to try n copy this basically step for step
How bad has it warped over the years?
Great Job!! What is the measurement for the door
Just saw this on r/diy today. You did a fantastic job on the door, and a great job creating a video that was enjoyable to watch. Keep up the excellent work!
Thanks Zach! Really appreciate the kind words man!
Looks great, and I really like the detail that you go into for those with no carpentry experience, but maybe an architrave for a little more soundproofing/air flow seal between rooms?
thanks! the room isn't closed off (opens into living room) so airflow really shouldn't be a problem. soundproofing isn't really necessary either as we're in one room or the other, but not a bad idea!
Pretty cool, nice job. So I take it these doors do not provide air tight seals? I guess it leaves a minor gap around it?
Thanks Rick! This was helpful! Got mine built and up, just need to poly it. All the best!
Ohh man this door is amazing, how much was the total cost of the door? Please share...
Great looking door, can you tell me what program you were using on the computer in the beginning of this video?
How big is the gap between the back of the door and the wall? I'm planning on building one like this, but need to minimize the gap because of the noise from the laundry room. Nice build.
hey kent it's about an inch and a quarter off the wall. it does block some noise but not all. keep in mind i'm using a header that pushes out the door another 3/4". you may also consider getting a longer rail and making the door wider to help with the noise. hope that helps!
Great video. Only problem is the website links for materials and cuts are dead
jonas26a site looks to be working fine for me... diywithrick.com/2017/02/26/build-and-install-a-sliding-barn-door/
your door turned out great! simple, yet classic look! I'll be building one similar to yours soon. I do not like the Black door guide in the floor though. it sticks out like a sore thumb to me. I don't think i would add that feature on mine being I will have a 44" door it may do fine without the guide.
Things moved fast, did you only glue and staple? I am not sure that holds enough, I glue and screw. My son says I dont need to screw , just glue and staple...what is best?
Thank you
Paul
Bested by a lid =p Love these doors, so much better than swing doors for various reasons in my experience. One can't lets say put a plant behind a swing door and see the plant of the door is open. One could put a dresser or some other furniture in front of a swing door, etc. Thank you so much for sharing!
I'm glad I am not the only one who has a project manager ! Door looks great !
LOL! Thanks Kevin!
Great build. Gives me ideas for two 8’ tall 50” wide doors for a 8’ opening.
Love this project and I plan on trying to build one for myself.
Question for you, do you think its possible to rip the front and back piece of the tongue and groove boards with a circular saw after you've nailed them into the frame, provided there's enough clearance?
I ask because the only tool I don't have is a table saw and I'm trying to see if there's another way around it.
Door came out SWEEEEET! So correct me if I'm wrong...the header is bolted to the studs and the track is bolted to the header? The lag screws for the track ( black screws) ARE NOT bolted to the studs at all? The reason I ask is bcuz my studs aren't 16" OC. Thanks.
Made my own today following this video to the letter, wish I could post the results . Turned out great
awesome rob enjoy man!
Parts measurement list? Thank you! Awesome video
I have the same problem with straight cuts! I wish I'd had clamps to clamp my straight edge down when I was in woodworking class back in the 90s. It would have made it so much easier bc I always ended up moving it when trying to draw a straight line. LOL. We didn't have a speed square in the class for some reason.
Nice tutorial. The hardware seems nice. The stain color is beautiful!
Great idea with the header! Aside if the support, it really made the project pop in a great way
"Because I'm not capable of making straight lines by myself".
LOL always love your humor.
After you stained it, did you coat it with varnish or polyurethane or anything? Or just left the stain alone?
Bastian I was wondering the same thing. I personally would use polyurethane. Protect the wood and stain and easy to wipe clean.
When mounting your rail, did any of your lag screws that came with the door actually hit studs? I know your mounting board hit studs, but couldn’t the rail just pull out of that mounting board if it’s only going through your thin mounting board and then just into dry wall?
Hey Andy yes it hit one or two studs. Since the header is bolted into the studs and the weight of the door is pulling down and not out i'm not concerned about the thickness of the board. It feels very safe and secure. Hope that answers your question!
DIYwithRick awesome thanks. I am mounting a 51” door and was concerned about weight. My rail also come predrilled with 16” holes apart. I don’t know if my studs will line up or not. I got a 1x6 header just to be safe
Cool door. Could you route a hole on the other side so it's easier to open?
ive installed many of these and one thing i would say to be careful with is leveling the header. If your floor is not level then it might rub the ground when it rolls. easy fix is to raise the door a little
great advice!
All us married guys have “project managers” that were stuck with for life 🤣 they all love taking credit for the finish product too
Hey we’re the inspiration 🤣🙏✌🏼
Any additional tricks for a beginner on cutting the diagonal supports?
Nice video. The making of the door looks easy. Once hung, it really looked great !
Barry
Hey great video. Do you remember the type of wood used and the dimensions I'm looking forward to build it. Hopefully similar results.
Man that turned out great! Just discovered your channel definitely worth a sub for sure! I love rustic projects as well. Turns out I have quite a few on my channel as well! Again great work on the door really well-made sir!
Really nice. But.. Caution putting screws into carpet. I tore a long thread out of my carpet when the screw caught and left a permanent line across the living room. Wife loved it! 2nd, keep hand back at least the length of the nail you are using in the nail gun. I shot a 2 1/2" nail right through my finger when it hit another nail inside the board and went sideways. Oddly, it didn't hurt as much as you would think.
The front of the door is nice....how do you get a more barn door look on the back when it's closed?
Great video! Question: So you drill and screw the header into the studs. Then you can place the railing anywhere on the header? How do the railing screws not slip out of the header because they aren't in studs? Thanks again!
Taylor Snyder the header acts as horizontal stud.
you COULD have done a groove for the fins ( the plastic things on the floor ) with yur table saw .... if yu'd planned ahead that would have been very easy to do....
Since you installed a header, do you not have to screw your hardware screws into studs? Will they not slip out of the wood since they aren't in studs?
Nice work on the door! What did you pay in total for lumber?
Great video! Entertaining as well as informative or educational.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience 🙏🏼🤙🏼😎
Door looks great, i'm looking to make the same thing for my den
DO IT!!!
Great video. I have a question, my door opening is 48 inches wide. Do they have any hardware rails that long? The company you bought them from?
the rough hewn boards you found at Home Depot, did those include the tongue in groove boards as well or did you find those separate from the boards you built the frame out of?
hey andrew the 1x6 T&G were separate from the the rough sawn boards. I'm not sure what aisle in relation to the rough stuff. The T&G had more of a quality somewhere between home depot's common and select boards.
DIYwithRick awesome! I'm hoping to replicate this build for a door between our mudroom and kitchen, thanks for the help!
sure thing man let me know how it goes or if you have any questions about the build/install!
Nice work there Rick, was looking around for a solution for my computer room think this might just be what I was looking for. What is the blue crank device (at 0.40 secs) you use for doing the pre-drills for the pocket screws?
thanks viguy! it's called the kreg jig. there's a full kit for around $99 OR a mini jig for about $20. super easy to use after reading the quickstart guide and creates strong long lasting joints.
After you stained it, did you coat it with polyurethane or anything? Or just left the stain alone?
Been building these doors with T and G for awhile, much easier man if you layout and put together T and G boards first and then attach outer border next. Also mill down your pine boards with planer, they will be even, less sanding.
Where do you find T and G end pieces? Or do you make them yourself?
Amazing video. Love the step by step instruction. WhAt can I do jog I don t heave any studs on thus wall that I want rob hang my barn door?
Great tutorial! I have been looking at a basement doorway that this sliding door would be perfect!
Great project & video~! I'm looking to do the same thing for our bathroom. This video is the shove I needed. Thanks for sharing~!
Great video. I bought the Kreg jig, what a great tool!!
I really found the angle cuts hard. What did you use to get the "57 degrees"
I cut the first one perfect, but every time I cut the second angle to fit in I was always perfect if I was 1/4" off the 1x6 frame. It was driving me crazy!
I’m late to the party but I can’t figure out why you cut the tongue and groove off of the boards. It doesn’t seem to go with the rest of the video. How did that help with installation?
nice door,
where did u use the 1x8x8 from your list?
and, what is the dimension of the door.
thanks
What about the light switch?
Also there is no handle on the other side it seems? And since there is no guide on the back of the door on the bottom it can still bang against the wall right? I know he said it wouldn't but it looks like you could push a little too low on the door and bend shit up top.
Yeah it's not optimal. If I had some electrical exp. I would move it. But! The room doesn't get much use and it's just a slide away when we do!
If the door were to go into the wall it wouldn't bend the top hardware. It's about 1" to 3/4" off the trim so there's not enough space to really effect the caster/rail. While a channel for the guide would be better, I can open and close the door multiple times with a good amount of force (not trying to keep it off the wall) and it doesn't even come close to the wall.
A routed out handle on the back side would be REALLY nice though, once I learn how to use a router.
Rick - Great video very informative and easy to follow! Got my track hardware last night and ready to go...one question.
Any suggestions on how to keep the Project Manager off site until after the task is finished?
hahah. when i figure that one out i'll tell you!
@@DIYwithRick Send her out shopping with your wallet. only way i have found that works
Hilarious yet very informative and helpful video. I’m taking on basically the same project for the first time tomorrow. Looks like easy money...until it’s me doing it haha.
Great job ! That door looks AMAZING!
Thanks for the video. About to attempt a single 10' wide door on the back of the garage.
how did it go?
I'm planning to upgrade my bedroom door with one of those kits but I wonder if you can lock the doors from inside?
Great build and instructional video. "Project Manager"... Hilarious. For the channel guide you could consider cutting a piece of trim with the groove, then attach to the bottom edge. Adjust your measurements of the door and trim. For the groove on the trim cut it out with the table saw with multiple passes or use a dado stack blade. Still your door looks great and good job with troubleshooting the door guide.
OMG!!! I Love your Project Manager!! I Feel You, Project Manager!! lol
Great job
How much was the total cost ( parts only)?
Do you have a material list for this project, and also was this a 48 inch door you built?
Great door you built here!!
thanks! check the description for the guide!
Did you have any worries or issues about clearing your light switch?
Please let me know, what software that can use for design... nice video sir..
Great video! What paint color do you have on your walls?
Because pocket holes screw in an angle you will get movement when you fasten. Use a speed clamp to align the 2 pieces before putting in your screws. Then you won't get that height difference.
This is fantastic advice, thank you!
Highly recommend the addition of soft close attachments. Especially if you have kids and the door gets operated alot.
Such a great project. This is something I've been thinking about making for awhile. 👍🏻
Thanks griss!
Hey, why did you cut the tongue and groove boards on the table saw? How were you able to still connect them?
What happened to the written instructions? Awesome door
any advice on doing this on a bathroom door?? my bedroom is small so to save space i want a slide door, however in not sure how closing the door from the opposite side would work
Whats the tool you use called where you make the holes for the screws? Or the name of that technique. I'm blanking
hey Aidan it's the kreg jig system. Here's a link to my website with all the tools/materials and step by step guide: diywithrick.com/2017/02/26/build-and-install-a-sliding-barn-door/
Aidan O'Neill It's a Kreg Jig. The technique is called pocket hole joinery.
Really nice work rick, the door looks fab!
thanks paolo!
I really enjoyed watching this kind video, so much fun and learn so much stuff, Thank you so much!
Rick, awesome video... even better hat!