Had my neighbor's 2003 Audi A4 battery continually needing a jump. No one could figure out the problem even after 2 new batteries. I came home late one night (3am) from hanging out with friends in the dead cold of winter and saw her brake lights on. It turned out her brake light switch was out of adjustment and had a hair trigger. The problem was when the temperature dropped and materials contracted enough, the switch closed the circuit and turned the brake light bulbs on until the ambient temperature got warmer or the battery died. I know it sounds crazy, but sometimes thinking outside the box can save from having to buy a new battery. Anyways great video Paul, keep up the good work.
I agree, my folks owned a 1977 Plymouth Volare. During the cold winter nights, the horn would start blasting in the early morning all by itself. Turned out, the plastic material would shrink enough to close the horn switch on the steering wheel and practically wake up the dead 👻💀
About 7 years ago I picked up a BatteryMINDER 5-stage desulphating charger, with temperature compensation. This thing has paid for itself HUNDREDS of times over - not even exaggerating. Seeing that battery there having a build date in '14, I would bet that 2 weeks on my charger would bring that battery right back from the dead. Not even kidding. Thing is amazing. Batteries I thought I would have to toss, I ended up getting 3 to 5 more years out of! I have zero affiliation with the company - I just like it when stuff works better than advertised in this day and age. :) I just picked up another one last week (Model 128CEC1). They updated the unit for 2016, so you are now able to see more of what it's doing and understand it better. They also did away with the long temp sensor that used to have to be connected to battery ground to work - the new one is just a temp sensor, that plugs into a very short pigtail coming out of the unit. It's also set up specifically for the Odyssey AGM battery I run in my truck, so that was another added bonus. I haven't tried the new one yet on a completely smoked battery, but I'm confident it will be every bit as good as my old one. At least I hope anyway. The internet will be the first to hear about it if it's not! :D
Just tell him to disconnect his negative battery terminal if it's going to be sitting for awhile, I disconnect all my battery's that sit. Thanks for the video Paul.
The most important final recommendation after analyzing the test results that is missing in this case (since the cause of battery is not likely from a parasitic drain at 11mA) should be the purchase of a battery charger/maintainer and some basic battery diagnostic tools (hydrometer and/or a battery and system tester) in tracking the state of health and in equalizing the charges of an old lead acid battery. Buying a new battery won't help if the battery is going to sit again. Anyone who owns an automotive battery must keep the battery charged up either manually by a battery charger or automatically by a smart battery charger and maintainer. All flooded lead acid batteries will need battery equalization done regularly to maintain and extend battery life.
Do you recommend any particular brand and model device for battery equalization? I can't find any charger with equalization listed as a feature. Plenty of chargers with desulfation listed as a feature. Is desulfation and equalization the same thing?
The car battery needs trickle charging during the off time or else run the car for a few minutes every 3 days.A year old battery should be in tip top shape. Great to see your family and great interest in the auto scene.
+Tom OConnor I was always taught a battery that is discharge slowly or has been left discharge over an extended period needs a slow charge to push the charge through the full thickness of the plates, a battery that has been discharged relatively quickly can be charged more quickly. A lot of modern batteries have "improved" lead acid chemistry and can't be recovered by normal recharging.
Hi Paul my name is Rick, thank you for your work and all of your You Tube posts. I'm in Australia so g'day mate! lol. I used to work as an Auto Electrician as it's called over here, and changed careers for some years. But I have been wanting to go back to automotive engine management and electronics. There is nothing like your posts over here and I'm hoping to do your premium courses soon. Great to see your a Christian also as I am. May God bless you and your family Paul. Thanks again Rick.
Thank you for all your video's and hard work Paul i dont know where u get the time with family & rosedale tech plus onsite diagnosis but i am thankful you squeeze it in, i have learnt more in 9 mths as a premium customers than my whole apprenticeship as a Mechanic :)) thanks.
+Jesse McCarthy thanks so much Jesse! It's hard to manage everything for sure. It's Saturday and I've been in front of my computer for more than 8 hours :( But I got a good one on a computer controlled alternator ready for upload on SD Premium
Very nice video, but noticed the top of the battery is damp. Also need to check the surface voltage. Batteries sweat alot as they discharge. The film of acid will conduct several volts as well. A quick wash with baking soda is all that is needed.
Excellent info. Sometimes "little" things like the battery get overlooked when a car sits. I like to throw my second car on a battery tender when it sits for a while, just in case of something like this.
Anything over 30ma will suck that battery down. Alarm systems are famous for wearing batteries down if they sit for an extended period. Best to use a battery cut off switch if your car sits for extended periods of time. I should also point out that once that battery goes below 11.8 volts for any length of time they do not come back from that and no amount of charging will fix it and you will need a new battery. And Danner, I don't believe we have seen part 4 of the lift kit installation. I hope you took note of my specific instructions to complete the job in part 3.
.......... Great info. I forgot about the Alarm system on my Crown Vic, that I am now using for a back up car. How many mili-Amps do you think a Crown Vic Alarm system draws.
One thing to consider on more complex cars is the can bus system and modules still awake for at least 10 minutes more or less for some cars and a car with a key less system make sure the key is not near the car on time I got a VW mk5 Jetta with a broken wire in the driver door it very common for this generation on car but one wire that caused and parasitic draw is one can bus wire that was broken for the comfort system and would communicate with the window motor and there is 2 wires for the bus system they are twisted together with a scan tool you can see the can bus data status going to a single to a 2 wire status on an off constantly when there is no wire issue the status shows the bus in a 2 wire mode then when you lock the car all the modules go into a sleep mode in matter of minutes I also saw some alternator shorts and they would drain the battery in a short period of time thanks for the video the thing is when you get a car that draws only intermittently it's sometimes not easy.
After installing new battery, he should buy a dashboard solar cell charger to maintain charge. That's a small-amperage battery to begin with. That way he can continue leaving it sit for a month at a time. But starting it once a week would really help.
Did you ever fix this problem? I had a similar problem, turned out to be the alternator! I checked the alternator voltage as you did and it showed 14.4. I checked parasitic draw, and there was very low amp draw like you have. I replaced the battery, next day I went to go to work and the battery was dead again! I took it to a repair shop: they charged the battery, checked the alternator voltage UNDER LOAD: in other words, turned on the lights, radio, heater: alternator voltage dropped to 12V, which would of course, kill the battery. Very strange problem to have, and I wouldn't have guessed it, but I'm in good working order now.
........ That's what Wal-Mart is telling me also. Similar problem as you described. They said a diode was bad in the alternator. Car ran fine after I jumped it even with seemly bad battery. I charged the battery with a 6 Amp charger for 8 hours and only got up to 33% Charge.
Good Afternoon ScannerDanner take care and have a great day ScannerDanner 👍 God bless you ScannerDanner 👍 Great tutorial thank you 👍 From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
One time i remember diagnosing a car with a battery like that, that also had acid leakage on the top caps, and it had no parasitic draw neither, but it would discharge over a 10-12 hr period so i cleaned the top with water and soda and it wouldn't discharge anymore so i guess the acid leak was slowly causing a dead battery
I had a jaguar like that . put positive lead of my meter on batt + and just touched the top of the battery with negative lead... voltage increased the further I went toward negative post
James Danner i wonder what causes that small seepage through the caps, maybe heat cycles or something? i mean i don't see it with trunk mounted or under the seat batteries
Had a first generation navigator doing that to me as well. Had already replaced the air ride with spring before I noticed it. Didnt realize it until I heard the compressor noise so loud I thought someone was taking my truck.
You can use a battery charger on a timer to keep the battery charged when a car is left sitting for a long time. Just set the timer to run 10-30 min per day. With a little experimentation, you can find the right time for the charger to run.
I have a Suburban with the 7.4L engine, does great for towing but only 13MPG, so it sits for weeks at a time. I kept finding a dead battery when I needed the vehicle. So I got a cheap trickle charger, the $ sale at HF. I just plug that in when I've done with the Burban. No more problem.
Can you explain how you removed the power connection to the alarm/remote start module ? Does disconecting the ground to it remove its power? I want to test to see if my aftermarket alarm is causing a draw and how much, but not sure how to remove power to it easily
@1.83 volts that battery is DEAD. Probably has a dead cell. An alternator is not really made to charge a dead battery. Need to get another battery, there should still be a warranty on the battery. But your brother probably lost the receipt like the remote.
+ScannerDanner A dead battery can be one of the hardest calls to make and be 100% sure it won't come back on you -- in this case a good call it was an ex-battery .....
This man knows too much about electrical. Drive past dealerships in the dead of winter, and you'll see alot of new cars' hoods popped and the techs charging the batt cells not to only keep them charged, but to mainly keep them from freezing over. I'm guessing that they do that once every week. An undercharged battery can damage its plates and destroy itself faster than anything else will.
I don’t have more than 40mA drain, checked fuses, battery supplier test ok, alternator charging 14.4V, battery trickles to 12.7V. Battery still flats after 3 days. Pulled fuse 25 out, fuel and trunk actuator plugs pulled, no luck. No OBD codes. Battery sitting in garage keeping charge. My own battery tester shows 72% health after one year old and fluctuates between good battery and sometimes replace. Alternator 0.01V AC but suspecting battery or alternator diode.
i would consider three things. how far is the car driven when it is used, does it get a chance to charge up. also check amperage cable, battery grounds and Toyota has an extra battery cable connector on main battery cables that need to be cleaned.
Hell my car does this just after a few days with no starting... Never thought about disconnecting the battery though thanks for the information in the comment section
That battery is gone-ski... sub 2V uncharged is waaay below the threshold voltage for sulfates to form on the plates. Your brother might actually try to buy a NOCO or CTEK intelligent charger and do a few cycles (intentionally leaving the lights on until the battery dips below 11V, charging up, then discharging again) BUT I think a new battery in this size (what is that tiny thing, 45Ah?) will be cheaper than buying a charger that has a regen feature. *EDIT* just watched the last 1min - yeah. Replace battery. Also checked Wallmart's catalogue, the cheapest battery they have in 45Ah is a cool $100...
Basic, simple and very useful info for someone who has never done that type of testing before and can be done with a moderately priced volt/amp meter.I would like to add for your viewers that on newer vehicles you have to wait for electronics to go to "sleep" before that test is valid.Is Caleb another mechanic/automotive instructor in the making?
Does it have a hood light. You probably wouldn't see it working on it in the daylight with the hood open. Also, check the trunk light could be out of adjustment and staying on will run the battery down. When the battery is run completely dead, the cells become sulfated but deep cycle batteries can handle this, most ordinary car batteries cannot. Definitely needs a battery but not sure you have fixed the drain. I would like to hear if it is still going dead with a new battery.
lol this guys a pro,not to mention an automotive teacher. He's using a labscope for parasitic draw test. pretty sure he's got all that covered. any idea what an oscilloscope is without Googling it?
I had the same issue on a 07 mustang i used to own. I would garage it all winter and have a dead battery by spring. I ended going with a battery that had a larger reserve current size and a tender and problem never came back. In fact i forgot to plug in the tender one year and the car started right up so reserve current size is also a big factor.
Thanks for the reply Paul, looking forward to the new one on your Premium channel, or any of your uploads for that matter, They are all great! Find something new in every one i watch.
Assumptions like this make my job ALOT more difficult as a 12 add on tech. teaches younger guys just to jump to remote starters and aftermarket stuff when there still is a problem with the cars.. 90% of the time i get called back i find whats wrong and its not aftermarket stuff.
+justkloo2 assumptions like what? It took two minutes to isolate a known problem area. When troubleshooting problems, we are always making assumptions, then we walk down that path and prove that assumption to be either right or wrong. If we are right, we keep walking that path, if we are wrong, we back up and go another direction. Not sure what your beef is here?
Hey Scanner Danner! I have a Vantage, and I’m having battery issues on my car. I wanted to look at the alternator ripple. Do I need an AC coupler filter? Or what were your settings when you were looking at ripple in this vid? Thank you!
That battery is history, sitting at that low of a charge will cause stratification which is ireversable no matter what voodoo magic or gadget you've seen on UA-cam even if you can get it to accept a charge it will be at a much lower capacity, if you're going to let it sit for long periods especially in could weather put it on a smart trickle charger.
Can you answer why a special charger is needed to charge AGM batteries even though they are charged in car by the same source that charges all types of batteries without issue? So why is a special charger needed?
Well u should have checked the radio I have run into couple times where it shorts out .on o ei unplugged radio an stopped the battery drainage.so how can check radio for draining the battery with out unplugging it ?
.as always a great video Paul .I would like to add a comment about that because I familiar with Toyota .if this remote system is a Genuine Not an After Market instillation , the situation will be better Remote control ECU transfers from WAKE UP mode to SLEEP mode 30 sec after closing and locking all doors, and all systems follow this strategy to save power. ECM and all ECUs go to sleep and there is no any activity on LAN BUS . after that , 45 sec later , the THEFT DETERRENT system will be activated. thank you for your posting
Hi, Paul, Since You travel alot, If You ever come to Maryland Or Washington DC area, I got Some Bugs I've been chasing for a while on 3 different Cars that would be worth filming and Learning from for everybody, If You can. Everything from battery drain to O2 Sensors, Airbags and Cooling Fans Problems. Cheers!
As soon as I got our 2015 Subaru Outback, I had to replace the undersized battery. Someone had replaced it with another battery of the same rating which was determined to be under rated for that vehicle. We have had no issues with the larger CCA battery. Subaru knew it was the wrong size battery. Rather than argue with those ass hats, I went to our local grocery store that sells batterys( not WALMART) that has a three year warrenty. When you have to argue with a dealer over something as simple as a battery, its just not worth it. Especially when the manufacturer knew that battery was the wrong one for that car. All 2015's had the same issue.
Batteries these days are gack compared to even a few years ago - they have no staying power. I'm finding we're now changing pretty new (1 year or a little older) batteries on a regular basis - they ain't making 'em like they used.
I would love to see you working on a police car with a parasitic drain. With all those siren and lighting wires. They would get it back with nothing working! But also no parasitic drain!
MAN! Y'all have some powerful DNA, Paul. Lotsa brains in your beautiful family. As always I greatly appreciate and enjoy your videos. Paul, I'm new to the scannerdanner world, but I did subscribe to your paid service...I'm just starting to dig in. It's fascinating and brilliant stuff. I'm a professional musician, but I think I see a side hustle (bad word haha) in my future thanks to you and Eric O!
97-01 toyota camrys have a battery hold down with long brackets that go on the top side of the battery. ive got a smaller battery on my 01 and the bracket got loose and touched the positive post and shorted the battery. to fix the problem i just got a new battery and wraped the hold down bracket with rubber. never had any problems with car before that. even when i left the car parked for near two months in the middle of colorado winter. went to start it and started right up.
Heard you mention your mission work. I like that you do stuff to help people eg mission trips, I try to do the same think it is universal regardless of religious and non-religious differences..
+ScannerDanner Not only your hotel but also your travel and food. Everywhere you go you need to do some work and video it on your paid channel to maintain that tax exemption. By the way, I checked out Hamilton College and it is ranked very high among liberal arts colleges with only a 26% acceptance rate so only the best and brightest can get in. Great video as usual.
Yep I always charge them check the voltage while diconnected from car.If it shows 12 volts then after 5 hrs it reads 10 and after 5 hrs after that it shows 5. THEN YOUR BATTERY IS SHOT.
Dan and company , I enthadickly enjoy watching your channel . 17 minutes seems like a 2 minute trailor come on bro !! and one other thing , you need to get an 06 Marquis to work on !! LOL But seriously Thank you for sharing !!
use a test light. ya always have more voltage at night lmao. yeah ny state posted in april my first thought was a frozen battery. they will often bulge the sides of the case. if ya see the bulge ya better indulge (in a replacement)
I'm sorry for the dislike. I finally caught you. Never use the car to recharge the battery. You put considerable strain on the alternator. More money down the drain. Plus the car owner will insist your diagnosis was incorrect, no matter what you say { It was really the alternator, and you told me to replace the battery. You've probably even said this yourself. What fun, keep going brother.
+daveS ministry Batteries get badly damaged by deep discharges. Modern automotive starting batteries aren't designed to be discharged to more than 70 percent of full charge. This battery has reportedly been deep discharged several times, even with slow trickle charging followed by a leveling charge it will only have a fraction its' original charge capacity and cold cranking amps. In the shop this can be verified even on a discharged battery by using a modern battery tester that measures the AC impedance of the battery and gives a estimate of the percentage remaining life of the battery and the effective CCA.
+daveS ministry You finally caught me :) We did not have a battery charger and I am aware of the strain that a dead battery puts on the alternator. We had no choice in this situation. At least you told me why you gave me a thumbs down. For that, I thank you.
+ScannerDanner A man cannot think of everything. You already work very hard at getting your words right. Or doing a correct or thorough test to avoid complaints. I always thought you went overboard on this, wasting your time on unnecessary things, but I never was a good communicator, like you are, The issue with using the car to recharge a battery has been a reoccurring issue with me. When I ask people [Did you get your battery recharged] I hear I drove the car for an hour. They just don't understand.I have to help these church people but I probably harp at them, they keep doing it. Thanks for the time you send on your excellent lessons.
Hey I've found the circuit that has 5A of draw on battery by running multimeter in series on 10A setting and pulling fuses one by one. It was Fuse 8 in my under dash junction box. Problem is I am having a hard time finding what on that circuit is causing the draw. It says on a looked up fuse diagram that fuse 8 protects: "Overhead console, rear wiper, ip lights, rear flipper glass solenoid." How would you suggest I test for faults in the circuit? Should I do resistance testing or should I do voltage drop with a live circuit? So far looking at overhead console wires where it connects in overhead and checking rear wiper wires I couldn't see any obvious wire problems. How do you recommend I proceed. I should mention my vehicle is 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L And when I pulled my fuse # 8 it went from 5.3A to 0.59A and I'm understanding my Jeep is supposed to only have 50mA max and I'm getting 590mA over 5X that. Scary to think I am having 100x what it is supposed to be with the 5A battery's parasitic draw.
I had the same problem with my Hyundai... It is from 2003 and had 136000 km on the clock when I bought it a year ago.... I changed the battery early this week because it could not hold it's charge....
I dislike when manufacturers put the alternator right by the exhaust. The alternator fan pulls air from its back, so it's using exhaust heated air to cool itself.
Yes! I offer training on my website. Sign up for the free trial then it's only $11 a month after that giving you access to over 530 training videos and counting. www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html Hope to see you there!
check Mini fuse site for voltage drop across mini fuse with all power off. Will indicate which fuse has parasitic draw .Alternator diodes often leak draw down battery also.. Check output while at hot idle in drive with all accessories on full is better. PS have your PhD brother invented chemical which desulfates lead plates in battery.Shalom
Bad Company, you needs to buy a DVM. Then set it on Current Reading (AMP) You are looking for a Current Reading of no more than 0.050 FYI: 0.05 Amp = 50mAmp
whenever doing a battery draw test after starting a car like you did you should have walked away for about 40 minutes or so and then come back and do it relays stay alive on some of those newer Vehicles up to 40 minutes and that will give you a false reading
hi everyone ,if anyone else wants to learn about how to recondition batteries at home try Renkarter Rapid Renew Report (Have a quick look on google cant remember the place now ) ? Ive heard some super things about it and my friend got amazing results with it.
True. What you mention would elevate the milliamp draw for those 40 minutes. He was getting a pretty low MA draw even within seconds of closing the door. So, in this case, the 40 minutes was not necessary.
I had a Taurus that did this, but it would drain overnight. And it would get "fiixed" and the problem returned every month. It's like as soon as i would walk into the house and left the car off, every single gadget would get turned on by a ghost and in the morning the car would be completely dead. The worst issue you can have with a car. That and it would randomly not want to start, whenever it wanted. Probably some kind of sensor, but I didn't know that then. That was 20 years ago.
Had same thing in my Ford Escape. Battery dead overnight and sometimes after I shut it off I come out 10 min later and radio and interior lights be on. Ended up being the accessory switch relay on inside fuse panel near kick panel that got water or moisture in it and corroded the relay useless at times. Replaced it new and fixed the problem
+kdmq A battery with a dead cell (sometimes called a shorted or gassing cell) tend to show up as non-starts on sudden cold snaps. Modern battery testers are smart enough to give a pretty good prediction when a battery is going downhill, and unlike the old style tester they are easy to use and safe. The prices is now in the DIY range here in the EU they can be found under 45 Pounds/70 Euros considering the cost and frustration of a no start or roadside breakdown I would say it is cost effective buy for anybody that looks after three or more vehicles.
Get sand paper n clean ur terminal and conectors to ur battery untill they are shiny,Basically i had problem, car wouldn't turn over, but had full power to head lights and dash illuminated with key on,turning key over,engine would click and like surge protector, everything ,dash and lights would shut off over n over and wouldnt fire, the car still had power to all electronics? sooo i pulled an cleaned up battery and connectors with sandpaper, lil time, luck ,n wall la, she fired right up, hope this helps,ps this was the first time i ever got lucky and didnt hav to spend 200 on battery or alternator yay me!
Danner for those of us who require an aftermarket alarm for door lock and primarily pressure sensitivity and must keep the unit connected how does one maintain a low amount of draw knowing the system will always consume more than 50mA?
ScannerDanner What if the battery doesnt completely die. Mine drops to @ 12.3 and causes a no start. Of course the more I try to crank it the lower the battery gets and the parts store tested it as good. I tested for paracitic draw and got 20 milliamps at rest. Alternator was tested and seemed like it wasnt producing enough voltage at idle or under load so I loaded up the parts cannon. After 1 day of driving, same result, undercharged battery and a no start. All fuses tested good with a powerprobe. I want to test the battery cables to the starter and alternator for excessive resistance next and I think my voltage regulation in pcm controlled, 2005 ford escape 2.3. Any direction to try and isolate this issue would be appreciated.
yes, I came here to mention the missing battery hold-down bolt as well. when I had a truck that sat for long periods I installed a battery maintainer, anything that can charge at 100mA would be fine.
Had my neighbor's 2003 Audi A4 battery continually needing a jump.
No one could figure out the problem even after 2 new batteries.
I came home late one night (3am) from hanging out with friends in the dead cold of winter and saw her brake lights on. It turned out her brake light switch was out of adjustment and had a hair trigger. The problem was when the temperature dropped and materials contracted enough, the switch closed the circuit and turned the brake light bulbs on until the ambient temperature got warmer or the battery died.
I know it sounds crazy, but sometimes thinking outside the box can save from having to buy a new battery.
Anyways great video Paul, keep up the good work.
Speedstack21 wow😮
yep with a good scope, he can scope for a long period and make sure that nothing is coming in later.
haunted car
I agree, my folks owned a 1977 Plymouth Volare. During the cold winter nights, the horn would start blasting in the early morning all by itself. Turned out, the plastic material would shrink enough to close the horn switch on the steering wheel and practically wake up the dead 👻💀
About 7 years ago I picked up a BatteryMINDER 5-stage desulphating charger, with temperature compensation. This thing has paid for itself HUNDREDS of times over - not even exaggerating. Seeing that battery there having a build date in '14, I would bet that 2 weeks on my charger would bring that battery right back from the dead. Not even kidding. Thing is amazing. Batteries I thought I would have to toss, I ended up getting 3 to 5 more years out of! I have zero affiliation with the company - I just like it when stuff works better than advertised in this day and age. :)
I just picked up another one last week (Model 128CEC1). They updated the unit for 2016, so you are now able to see more of what it's doing and understand it better. They also did away with the long temp sensor that used to have to be connected to battery ground to work - the new one is just a temp sensor, that plugs into a very short pigtail coming out of the unit. It's also set up specifically for the Odyssey AGM battery I run in my truck, so that was another added bonus. I haven't tried the new one yet on a completely smoked battery, but I'm confident it will be every bit as good as my old one. At least I hope anyway. The internet will be the first to hear about it if it's not! :D
Just tell him to disconnect his negative battery terminal if it's going to be sitting for awhile, I disconnect all my battery's that sit.
Thanks for the video Paul.
+Tim R thank you Tim
The most important final recommendation after analyzing the test results that is missing in this case (since the cause of battery is not likely from a parasitic drain at 11mA) should be the purchase of a battery charger/maintainer and some basic battery diagnostic tools (hydrometer and/or a battery and system tester) in tracking the state of health and in equalizing the charges of an old lead acid battery. Buying a new battery won't help if the battery is going to sit again. Anyone who owns an automotive battery must keep the battery charged up either manually by a battery charger or automatically by a smart battery charger and maintainer. All flooded lead acid batteries will need battery equalization done regularly to maintain and extend battery life.
Do you recommend any particular brand and model device for battery equalization? I can't find any charger with equalization listed as a feature. Plenty of chargers with desulfation listed as a feature. Is desulfation and equalization the same thing?
The car battery needs trickle charging during the off time or else run the car for a few minutes every 3 days.A year old battery should be in tip top shape. Great to see your family and great interest in the auto scene.
+Tom OConnor
I was always taught a battery that is discharge slowly or has been left discharge over an extended period needs a slow charge to push the charge through the full thickness of the plates, a battery that has been discharged relatively quickly can be charged more quickly.
A lot of modern batteries have "improved" lead acid chemistry and can't be recovered by normal recharging.
Hi Paul my name is Rick, thank you for your work and all of your You Tube posts. I'm in Australia so g'day mate! lol.
I used to work as an Auto Electrician as it's called over here, and changed careers for some years. But I have been wanting to go back to automotive engine management and electronics. There is nothing like your posts over here and I'm hoping to do your premium courses soon. Great to see your a Christian also as I am.
May God bless you and your family Paul.
Thanks again Rick.
+Rick Hayward Thanks brother! Let me know when your ready and I'll give you a coupon for a free month.
Love the family participation and sibling hazing::-)
Thank you!
Thank you for all your video's and hard work Paul i dont know where u get the time with family & rosedale tech plus onsite diagnosis but i am thankful you squeeze it in, i have learnt more in 9 mths as a premium customers than my whole apprenticeship as a Mechanic :)) thanks.
+Jesse McCarthy thanks so much Jesse! It's hard to manage everything for sure. It's Saturday and I've been in front of my computer for more than 8 hours :(
But I got a good one on a computer controlled alternator ready for upload on SD Premium
Very nice video, but noticed the top of the battery is damp. Also need to check the surface voltage. Batteries sweat alot as they discharge. The film of acid will conduct several volts as well. A quick wash with baking soda is all that is needed.
Excellent info. Sometimes "little" things like the battery get overlooked when a car sits. I like to throw my second car on a battery tender when it sits for a while, just in case of something like this.
Anything over 30ma will suck that battery down. Alarm systems are famous for wearing batteries down if they sit for an extended period. Best to use a battery cut off switch if your car sits for extended periods of time. I should also point out that once that battery goes below 11.8 volts for any length of time they do not come back from that and no amount of charging will fix it and you will need a new battery. And Danner, I don't believe we have seen part 4 of the lift kit installation. I hope you took note of my specific instructions to complete the job in part 3.
+Rod Palm: right.. just one deep discharge and the battery will never be the same...
.......... Great info. I forgot about the Alarm system on my Crown Vic, that I am now using for a back up car. How many mili-Amps do you think a Crown Vic Alarm system draws.
Nice video, nice to meet more of your family,
It would be good to do a video on the premium channel on battery care and testing.
One thing to consider on more complex cars is the can bus system and modules still awake for at least 10 minutes more or less for some cars and a car with a key less system make sure the key is not near the car on time I got a VW mk5 Jetta with a broken wire in the driver door it very common for this generation on car but one wire that caused and parasitic draw is one can bus wire that was broken for the comfort system and would communicate with the window motor and there is 2 wires for the bus system they are twisted together with a scan tool you can see the can bus data status going to a single to a 2 wire status on an off constantly when there is no wire issue the status shows the bus in a 2 wire mode then when you lock the car all the modules go into a sleep mode in matter of minutes I also saw some alternator shorts and they would drain the battery in a short period of time thanks for the video the thing is when you get a car that draws only intermittently it's sometimes not easy.
+V10PDTDI absolutely and I've covered this in other videos. I should have mentioned that here too
I think you should check the water level in the battery if the car sits a lot. They dry up after awhile.
jeffscomp I’ve heard if the lead has been dry too long adding water can damage it
After installing new battery, he should buy a dashboard solar cell charger to maintain charge. That's a small-amperage battery to begin with. That way he can continue leaving it sit for a month at a time. But starting it once a week would really help.
Max or somebody should still drive it every couple weeks, and in the winter start it every couple Days ! Thanks for the vid. Paul
+callmeko thank you
callmeko has
i like to have a good full charged battery before i do any electrical diag. nice video .
you don´t have the camera with you on vacation, but you never leave without your Vantage and the boost pack :-)
You have to check the amp output on the alternator not only voltage output
love you ,Danner I can't stop to watch you'r video .......sry for my english
Did you ever fix this problem? I had a similar problem, turned out to be the alternator! I checked the alternator voltage as you did and it showed 14.4. I checked parasitic draw, and there was very low amp draw like you have. I replaced the battery, next day I went to go to work and the battery was dead again! I took it to a repair shop: they charged the battery, checked the alternator voltage UNDER LOAD: in other words, turned on the lights, radio, heater: alternator voltage dropped to 12V, which would of course, kill the battery. Very strange problem to have, and I wouldn't have guessed it, but I'm in good working order now.
........ That's what Wal-Mart is telling me also. Similar problem as you described. They said a diode was bad in the alternator. Car ran fine after I jumped it even with seemly bad battery. I charged the battery with a 6 Amp charger for 8 hours and only got up to 33% Charge.
Good Afternoon ScannerDanner take care and have a great day ScannerDanner 👍 God bless you ScannerDanner 👍
Great tutorial thank you 👍
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
That squeak was piercing haha. Great video and information.
Sorry about that
One time i remember diagnosing a car with a battery like that, that also had acid leakage on the top caps, and it had no parasitic draw neither, but it would discharge over a 10-12 hr period so i cleaned the top with water and soda and it wouldn't discharge anymore so i guess the acid leak was slowly causing a dead battery
I had a jaguar like that . put positive lead of my meter on batt + and just touched the top of the battery with negative lead... voltage increased the further I went toward negative post
+James Danner hey bro. I'll have part 4 of our series up next week
Hey. U weren't supposed to reply to that post. I had a smart ass remark 4 you I think ,but I only watched the first half so far. got pulled away
James Danner i wonder what causes that small seepage through the caps, maybe heat cycles or something? i mean i don't see it with trunk mounted or under the seat batteries
My drain on my 1990 Olds 98 Regency was the the Air Compressor for the air shocks of all things.
Had a first generation navigator doing that to me as well. Had already replaced the air ride with spring before I noticed it. Didnt realize it until I heard the compressor noise so loud I thought someone was taking my truck.
You can use a battery charger on a timer to keep the battery charged when a car is left sitting for a long time. Just set the timer to run 10-30 min per day. With a little experimentation, you can find the right time for the charger to run.
trickle charge it , since its sitting so long or unhook the battery when not in use.
I have a Suburban with the 7.4L engine, does great for towing but only 13MPG, so it sits for weeks at a time. I kept finding a dead battery when I needed the vehicle. So I got a cheap trickle charger, the $ sale at HF. I just plug that in when I've done with the Burban. No more problem.
@@javaman2883 m.j
Nice family video
Can you explain how you removed the power connection to the alarm/remote start module ? Does disconecting the ground to it remove its power? I want to test to see if my aftermarket alarm is causing a draw and how much, but not sure how to remove power to it easily
@1.83 volts that battery is DEAD. Probably has a dead cell. An alternator is not really made to charge a dead battery. Need to get another battery, there should still be a warranty on the battery. But your brother probably lost the receipt like the remote.
+Upallnight exactly
+ScannerDanner
A dead battery can be one of the hardest calls to make and be 100% sure it won't come back on you -- in this case a good call it was an ex-battery .....
Many auto parts stores will honor the warranty without a receipt on their store brand based on the manufacture date sticker on the battery.
This man knows too much about electrical. Drive past dealerships in the dead of winter, and you'll see alot of new cars' hoods popped and the techs charging the batt cells not to only keep them charged, but to mainly keep them from freezing over. I'm guessing that they do that once every week. An undercharged battery can damage its plates and destroy itself faster than anything else will.
I don’t have more than 40mA drain, checked fuses, battery supplier test ok, alternator charging 14.4V, battery trickles to 12.7V. Battery still flats after 3 days. Pulled fuse 25 out, fuel and trunk actuator plugs pulled, no luck. No OBD codes. Battery sitting in garage keeping charge. My own battery tester shows 72% health after one year old and fluctuates between good battery and sometimes replace. Alternator 0.01V AC but suspecting battery or alternator diode.
i would consider three things. how far is the car driven when it is used, does it get a chance to charge up. also check amperage cable, battery grounds and Toyota has an extra battery cable connector on main battery cables that need to be cleaned.
Was the water in the battery checked?
Hell my car does this just after a few days with no starting... Never thought about disconnecting the battery though thanks for the information in the comment section
That battery is gone-ski... sub 2V uncharged is waaay below the threshold voltage for sulfates to form on the plates. Your brother might actually try to buy a NOCO or CTEK intelligent charger and do a few cycles (intentionally leaving the lights on until the battery dips below 11V, charging up, then discharging again) BUT I think a new battery in this size (what is that tiny thing, 45Ah?) will be cheaper than buying a charger that has a regen feature.
*EDIT* just watched the last 1min - yeah. Replace battery. Also checked Wallmart's catalogue, the cheapest battery they have in 45Ah is a cool $100...
+tocsa120ls agree and we talked about a trickle charger off camera
Basic, simple and very useful info for someone who has never done that type of testing before and can be done with a moderately priced volt/amp meter.I would like to add for your viewers that on newer vehicles you have to wait for electronics to go to "sleep" before that test is valid.Is Caleb another mechanic/automotive instructor in the making?
+wysetech2000 for sure, and I should have mentioned that
Does it have a hood light. You probably wouldn't see it working on it in the daylight with the hood open. Also, check the trunk light could be out of adjustment and staying on will run the battery down. When the battery is run completely dead, the cells become sulfated but deep cycle batteries can handle this, most ordinary car batteries cannot. Definitely needs a battery but not sure you have fixed the drain. I would like to hear if it is still going dead with a new battery.
lol this guys a pro,not to mention an automotive teacher. He's using a labscope for parasitic draw test. pretty sure he's got all that covered. any idea what an oscilloscope is without Googling it?
........ An oscilloscope in this case could show voltage or Amperage wave forms over time and not just give a digital reading.
@@stephenfiore9960 In the video he used the oscilloscope function on this Vantage Pro to show the voltage ripple in different time scales.
This was great. Saved me a lot of time and money!
I had the same issue on a 07 mustang i used to own. I would garage it all winter and have a dead battery by spring. I ended going with a battery that had a larger reserve current size and a tender and problem never came back. In fact i forgot to plug in the tender one year and the car started right up so reserve current size is also a big factor.
Good video, very important to test all systems in this situation.
I wanted to hit the subscribe button. But I am already subscribed. What the crops.
Thanks for the reply Paul, looking forward to the new one on your Premium channel, or any of your uploads for that matter, They are all great! Find something new in every one i watch.
Nice to see the family . Think we can talk your brother into getting Chevy LOL. Nice vid. Cheers buddy.
+STEVE ROB thanks Steve!
Assumptions like this make my job ALOT more difficult as a 12 add on tech. teaches younger guys just to jump to remote starters and aftermarket stuff when there still is a problem with the cars.. 90% of the time i get called back i find whats wrong and its not aftermarket stuff.
+justkloo2 assumptions like what? It took two minutes to isolate a known problem area. When troubleshooting problems, we are always making assumptions, then we walk down that path and prove that assumption to be either right or wrong. If we are right, we keep walking that path, if we are wrong, we back up and go another direction.
Not sure what your beef is here?
Ah, no wonder the Danner bros are the best at diagnosis, smarts 🧠 run in the family.
thanks man
Hey Scanner Danner! I have a Vantage, and I’m having battery issues on my car. I wanted to look at the alternator ripple. Do I need an AC coupler filter? Or what were your settings when you were looking at ripple in this vid? Thank you!
That battery is history, sitting at that low of a charge will cause stratification which is ireversable no matter what voodoo magic or gadget you've seen on UA-cam even if you can get it to accept a charge it will be at a much lower capacity, if you're going to let it sit for long periods especially in could weather put it on a smart trickle charger.
if what i hear at the cold start is the belt spining then i think thats the cause of the voltage bouncing at the begining
Great job guys.
Can you answer why a special charger is needed to charge AGM batteries even though they are charged in car by the same source that charges all types of batteries without issue? So why is a special charger needed?
Well u should have checked the radio I have run into couple times where it shorts out .on o ei unplugged radio an stopped the battery drainage.so how can check radio for draining the battery with out unplugging it ?
.as always a great video Paul
.I would like to add a comment about that because I familiar with Toyota
.if this remote system is a Genuine Not an After Market instillation , the situation will be better
Remote control ECU transfers from WAKE UP mode to SLEEP mode 30 sec after closing and locking all doors, and all systems follow this strategy to save power. ECM and all ECUs go to sleep and there is no any activity on LAN BUS
. after that , 45 sec later , the THEFT DETERRENT system will be activated. thank you for your posting
+Mohammed Shamy thanks for the data!
Nice work Paul & family. =P
Hi, Paul, Since You travel alot, If You ever come to Maryland Or Washington DC area, I got Some Bugs I've been chasing for a while on 3 different Cars that would be worth filming and Learning from for everybody, If You can. Everything from battery drain to O2 Sensors, Airbags and Cooling Fans Problems. Cheers!
As soon as I got our 2015 Subaru Outback, I had to replace the undersized battery. Someone had replaced it with another battery of the same rating which was determined to be under rated for that vehicle. We have had no issues with the larger CCA battery. Subaru knew it was the wrong size battery. Rather than argue with those ass hats, I went to our local grocery store that sells batterys( not WALMART) that has a three year warrenty. When you have to argue with a dealer over something as simple as a battery, its just not worth it. Especially when the manufacturer knew that battery was the wrong one for that car. All 2015's had the same issue.
May want to put some fuel stabilizer in the tank as well if that car is driven so infrequently.
+m ph for sure
Tests showed nothing wron BUT Amp Clamp showed battery drain 0.34 amps back through alternator. Changed rectifier and no more drain.
Batteries these days are gack compared to even a few years ago - they have no staying power. I'm finding we're now changing pretty new (1 year or a little older) batteries on a regular basis - they ain't making 'em like they used.
Had a battery from dec 2010. Just croaked. Yes. It lasted 12 years. 2000 tacoma 3rz-fe. Think I’ll throw it on the charger manana just for giggles 😁
@@pitchforkpeasant6219 top up the fluid first with dist water& it'll probably come good again. :-)
I would love to see you working on a police car with a parasitic drain. With all those siren and lighting wires. They would get it back with nothing working! But also no parasitic drain!
Lol no thank you
I live just outside of Clinton, NY myself.. and my name is Max
MAN! Y'all have some powerful DNA, Paul. Lotsa brains in your beautiful family. As always I greatly appreciate and enjoy your videos. Paul, I'm new to the scannerdanner world, but I did subscribe to your paid service...I'm just starting to dig in. It's fascinating and brilliant stuff. I'm a professional musician, but I think I see a side hustle (bad word haha) in my future thanks to you and Eric O!
Thanks so much!
Grew up in sheffield village. Right next door to lorain.
97-01 toyota camrys have a battery hold down with long brackets that go on the top side of the battery. ive got a smaller battery on my 01 and the bracket got loose and touched the positive post and shorted the battery. to fix the problem i just got a new battery and wraped the hold down bracket with rubber.
never had any problems with car before that. even when i left the car parked for near two months in the middle of colorado winter. went to start it and started right up.
Heard you mention your mission work. I like that you do stuff to help people eg mission trips, I try to do the same think it is universal regardless of religious and non-religious differences..
Car fun with the family on your day off!
+Ozzstar yes, and my hotel bill is now a tax write off :)
ScannerDanner you got that right! haha
+ScannerDanner Not only your hotel but also your travel and food. Everywhere you go you need to do some work and video it on your paid channel to maintain that tax exemption. By the way, I checked out Hamilton College and it is ranked very high among liberal arts colleges with only a 26% acceptance rate so only the best and brightest can get in. Great video as usual.
+Jim Buford Thanks Jim
Yep I always charge them check the voltage while diconnected from car.If it shows 12 volts then after 5 hrs it reads 10 and after 5 hrs after that it shows 5. THEN YOUR BATTERY IS SHOT.
Dan and company , I enthadickly enjoy watching your channel . 17 minutes seems like a 2 minute trailor come on bro !! and one other thing , you need to get an 06 Marquis to work on !! LOL But seriously Thank you for sharing !!
+mrbakerskatz It's Paul, but that's okay, I get Dan all the time (last name is Danner)
Battery Tender JR! Saves my butt from buying batteries all the time with a vehicle that sits some.
both your son's seem very cool. Caleb seems like he's a bit more fun
+drwombat haha I'll tell him you said that.
use a test light. ya always have more voltage at night lmao. yeah ny state posted in april my first thought was a frozen battery. they will often bulge the sides of the case. if ya see the bulge ya better indulge (in a replacement)
richard cranium has
Sir, my car battery 45ah battery of fully charged 12.60 volt drops to 12.40 volt in just 2 days
Is this drop too high or normal?
Thang Tons too much.
Can you just use an amp clamp to measure current draw? Don't have an ammeter but have a cheap little scope with low current clamp
as long as your amp clamp can accurately read into the milliamp range, then yes, this will work fine for you
I'm sorry for the dislike. I finally caught you. Never use the car to recharge the battery. You put considerable strain on the alternator. More money down the drain. Plus the car owner will insist your diagnosis was incorrect, no matter what you say { It was really the alternator, and you told me to replace the battery. You've probably even said this yourself. What fun, keep going brother.
+daveS ministry
Batteries get badly damaged by deep discharges. Modern automotive starting batteries aren't designed to be discharged to more than 70 percent of full charge. This battery has reportedly been deep discharged several times, even with slow trickle charging followed by a leveling charge it will only have a fraction its' original charge capacity and cold cranking amps.
In the shop this can be verified even on a discharged battery by using a modern battery tester that measures the AC impedance of the battery and gives a estimate of the percentage remaining life of the battery and the effective CCA.
+Andrew W MacFadyen Also true, Thank you.
+daveS ministry You finally caught me :)
We did not have a battery charger and I am aware of the strain that a dead battery puts on the alternator. We had no choice in this situation.
At least you told me why you gave me a thumbs down. For that, I thank you.
+ScannerDanner A man cannot think of everything. You already work very hard at getting your words right. Or doing a correct or thorough test to avoid complaints. I always thought you went overboard on this, wasting your time on unnecessary things, but I never was a good communicator, like you are, The issue with using the car to recharge a battery has been a reoccurring issue with me. When I ask people [Did you get your battery recharged] I hear I drove the car for an hour. They just don't understand.I have to help these church people but I probably harp at them, they keep doing it. Thanks for the time you send on your excellent lessons.
+daveS ministry thanks dave
Jump pack...nice!
Hey I've found the circuit that has 5A of draw on battery by running multimeter in series on 10A setting and pulling fuses one by one.
It was Fuse 8 in my under dash junction box.
Problem is I am having a hard time finding what on that circuit is causing the draw.
It says on a looked up fuse diagram that fuse 8 protects:
"Overhead console, rear wiper, ip lights, rear flipper glass solenoid."
How would you suggest I test for faults in the circuit? Should I do resistance testing or should I do voltage drop with a live circuit?
So far looking at overhead console wires where it connects in overhead and checking rear wiper wires I couldn't see any obvious wire problems.
How do you recommend I proceed.
I should mention my vehicle is 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L
And when I pulled my fuse # 8 it went from 5.3A to 0.59A and I'm understanding my Jeep is supposed to only have 50mA max and I'm getting 590mA over 5X that. Scary to think I am having 100x what it is supposed to be with the 5A battery's parasitic draw.
That one should be easy to find with that type of amperage.
Start unplugging the components that run off of that fuse
I had the same problem with my Hyundai... It is from 2003 and had 136000 km on the clock when I bought it a year ago.... I changed the battery early this week because it could not hold it's charge....
I dislike when manufacturers put the alternator right by the exhaust. The alternator fan pulls air from its back, so it's using exhaust heated air to cool itself.
Hi, just a little question,is there any membership do you suggest will be good to learn all this auto electrician stuff online?
Yes! I offer training on my website. Sign up for the free trial then it's only $11 a month after that giving you access to over 530 training videos and counting.
www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
Hope to see you there!
check Mini fuse site for voltage drop across mini fuse with all power off. Will indicate which fuse has parasitic draw .Alternator diodes often leak draw down battery also.. Check output while at hot idle in drive with all accessories on full is better.
PS have your PhD brother invented chemical which desulfates lead plates in battery.Shalom
I don't get it.
Bad Company, you needs to buy a DVM.
Then set it on Current Reading (AMP)
You are looking for a Current Reading of no more than 0.050
FYI:
0.05 Amp = 50mAmp
whenever doing a battery draw test after starting a car like you did you should have walked away for about 40 minutes or so and then come back and do it relays stay alive on some of those newer Vehicles up to 40 minutes and that will give you a false reading
That was my thought too. Also never charge the battery from the alternator when the battery is dead. That alone can ruin the alternator.
hi everyone ,if anyone else wants to learn about how to recondition batteries at home try Renkarter Rapid Renew Report (Have a quick look on google cant remember the place now ) ? Ive heard some super things about it and my friend got amazing results with it.
True. What you mention would elevate the milliamp draw for those 40 minutes. He was getting a pretty low MA draw even within seconds of closing the door. So, in this case, the 40 minutes was not necessary.
The Immobilizer will cause a small drain too
I had a Taurus that did this, but it would drain overnight. And it would get "fiixed" and the problem returned every month. It's like as soon as i would walk into the house and left the car off, every single gadget would get turned on by a ghost and in the morning the car would be completely dead. The worst issue you can have with a car. That and it would randomly not want to start, whenever it wanted. Probably some kind of sensor, but I didn't know that then. That was 20 years ago.
Had same thing in my Ford Escape. Battery dead overnight and sometimes after I shut it off I come out 10 min later and radio and interior lights be on. Ended up being the accessory switch relay on inside fuse panel near kick panel that got water or moisture in it and corroded the relay useless at times. Replaced it new and fixed the problem
....... My Taurus brake light used to stay on sometimes even after you turned the car off. I think it was a problem with a switch by the brake pedal.
Here in Canada it's really easy to call a bad battery when the car only starts on warm days.
+kdmq
A battery with a dead cell (sometimes called a shorted or gassing cell) tend to show up as non-starts on sudden cold snaps.
Modern battery testers are smart enough to give a pretty good prediction when a battery is going downhill, and unlike the old style tester they are easy to use and safe. The prices is now in the DIY range here in the EU they can be found under 45 Pounds/70 Euros considering the cost and frustration of a no start or roadside breakdown I would say it is cost effective buy for anybody that looks after three or more vehicles.
Get sand paper n clean ur terminal and conectors to ur battery untill they are shiny,Basically i had problem, car wouldn't turn over, but had full power to head lights and dash illuminated with key on,turning key over,engine would click and like surge protector, everything ,dash and lights would shut off over n over and wouldnt fire, the car still had power to all electronics? sooo i pulled an cleaned up battery and connectors with sandpaper, lil time, luck ,n wall la, she fired right up, hope this helps,ps this was the first time i ever got lucky and didnt hav to spend 200 on battery or alternator yay me!
would the hood catch need locking before testing in the same way as the doors need closing 🤔
On some cars absolutely. Not on this one
Danner in upstate new york !!! Utica says hello
It's beautiful up there. I wish we got the same amount of snow here in Pittsburgh as you guys do
Danner for those of us who require an aftermarket alarm for door lock and primarily pressure sensitivity and must keep the unit connected how does one maintain a low amount of draw knowing the system will always consume more than 50mA?
you get a battery with more Reserve capacity
+drwombat make sure you drive it at least once a week or use a battery tender
I'm wondering.....dosent just at idle cause the battery to drain shouldn't you have to drive it to actually charge the battery sufficiently
+straightjacketleatha no, as long as charging voltage is 13.5-15 volts at idle, no need to raise the RPM
Even on Easter you work to help out. That's cool, but i's family right?
your brother seems cool
How was the fluid level in the cells?
LOL ,,Panama ..Ohio ..they are close to the same :)
+deepsquat600 haha yep
ScannerDanner What if the battery doesnt completely die. Mine drops to @ 12.3 and causes a no start. Of course the more I try to crank it the lower the battery gets and the parts store tested it as good. I tested for paracitic draw and got 20 milliamps at rest. Alternator was tested and seemed like it wasnt producing enough voltage at idle or under load so I loaded up the parts cannon. After 1 day of driving, same result, undercharged battery and a no start. All fuses tested good with a powerprobe. I want to test the battery cables to the starter and alternator for excessive resistance next and I think my voltage regulation in pcm controlled, 2005 ford escape 2.3. Any direction to try and isolate this issue would be appreciated.
12.3 volts would not cause a no start.
To be clear, is your car not cranking at all or is it cranking and not starting?
@@ScannerDanner After I charge the battery It will crank and start normally about 4-5 times and then all I get is dash lights and clicking.
If you don't drive it for long periods of time, disconnect the neg. terminal.
Warranty doesn't cover a stored vehicle.
Cant it kill a cell if you leave it discharged for an extended period of time?
It will freeze when it is discharged which will warp the plates and that is what kills the cells
@@ScannerDanner gotcha.
missing mounting bolt too. batteries just cant take a full discharge.
yes, I came here to mention the missing battery hold-down bolt as well. when I had a truck that sat for long periods I installed a battery maintainer, anything that can charge at 100mA would be fine.
Did you say Lorain Ohio????? Thats where i live!