Military Masterpiece? The Merkur 'Big Eye'
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
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A crcking little watch this one, if you like the vintage military look but don't fancy a Seagull 1963. A real looker, and wears a treat, but there are a few odd choices making it feel a little unresolved overall. If you fall in love, then best pick one up on special. Cheers, Jody
A British Armed Forces / French Army issued inspired watch in an Italian themed watch pouch with a mismatched Pierre Paulin strap buckle. There's enough here to remind you it is a Chinese Special Beauty!
I think it's an order error (merkur does not manufacture its own cases), in the final version sold later the cover is brown rigid PU leather.
The three o'clock sub-register on a Breguet was for 15 minutes, divided into five three-minute groupings. This unusual demarcation for a timer was to keep track of the pre-flight check prior to take off.
Do you have a source for this?
I was wondering for a long time why 3 minutes and couldn't find anything in the original French specification...
I guess one perk of not being able to fall asleep in the us is that I get to see JOMW videos as soon as they drop!
I have a Seagull 1963 with a Sapphire crystal on a Rios brown leather strap. The power reserve is 48 hours on mine. Strange the Merkur is only 30?
I have an Indian HMT Jawan military watch, 37mm, black dial with an arrow and the Indian Army military issue number deeply engraved on the casebook, Acrylic crystal from the 1980s. Handwound. Even the lume still works.
The yellow/green fauxtina is so much more bareable than pumpkin horrorshow, like the Invicta '53. This is a beautiful little piece isn't it.
Hoping this isn’t the only time I hear someone playing the Italian anthem in Australia in the near future. 🏎
The hour hand cut-ff design is taken from IWC MK 11, not Breguet. It was famously purposely designed that way to aid night time navigation in low light condition. Towards the end of WWII, Royal Air Force was looking for solutions to help their long distance resonances or bombing squadrons to easily tell the hour hand from minute in low light night time condition. During MK7 generation AKA 6B-159, apparently a lot of pilots would mistaken hour hand for minute and therefore miscalculate their navigation. The solution was to cut the hour hand extremely short and in a dramatic different shape than minute, so no one would mistaken the hour for minute. It later became an iconic look for IWC despite requiring some acquired taste. Looks like Merkur just grabbed whatever design they could find and lump it all together ie. Breguet, IWC, Longines etc.
This is the Chinese concept of reissue for function. They use the best elements and put them together, such as the Baltany d'Irty dozen which takes up the best elements of the dirty dozen or the Thorn canteen watch which mixes the best case of the two historical Buship watches with the best dial/hand which was produced by the other brand. The Merkur Big eye is a real professional watch to be used in reality unlike other pilot watches intended for collection and which are not really intended to be worn.
A winner. I'm also pretty into their reverse panda retro Chrono.
At first, I liked how this looked, but I can't get down with the flat ends of the hour hands. I don't know why, but it just pisses me off lol
Comment for the algorithm. I don't go for chronos, but i like the chunky look of this thing and it's a good price for a chrono.
Nice video Jodi, this watch is not for me sorry the the cut down hour hand and British Broad arrow are the put of points , keep up the good work.
My first thought on seeing it was that it looks like a chrono version of an IWC Mark XI. That's where the hour hand comes from, so a proper European mash-up!
The lugs are reminiscent of a Nomos, fortunately the price isnt. A bit of a mix of inspirations from various sources that could have been a right mess but ends up having a charm of its own.
That Italian Anthem reminded me of how nice it was hearing it in Bahrain.
a beauty indeed - now some competition for the planned investment into the classic seagull-chrono. But the hourhand sets me slightly off...
You might also be interested in checking out the W10-homage to be found on ali - have one, and totally happy (though it really is small, as the original).
This one is great, about the perfect size, my favourite style and an acrylic crystal with a good strap. Quite impressive. The only issue is the british military arrow, that is a really odd thing to add and the useless lume on the sub dial. Looks awesome on wrist too.
Hi ! I bought the last 38mm big eye watch, acrylic glass (I don't know if it will be reissued). It's a real bomb: The gray Merkur logo is replaced by white lettering, under the logo is displayed in red the letters D.F.H which means that the movement is checked and fine tuned to perfection. The British broken arrow is replaced by 3 lines of text "aviation timer", "chronograph" and "1970". The solid bottom is replaced by a transparent bottom and on the buckle of the bracelet "Pierre Paulin" and replaced by "F.O.D". The final version of this watch meets all the characteristics of a watch intended for professional use. I have several watches that are worth much more in my collection, but since I bought this one... the others are condemned to stay in the watch box.
Looks like Merkur has listened to your feedback. Just got myself a piece from a different store (Red Star Chronograph) with all the oddities that were mentioned, addressed:
1) Watch came in a black Merkur branded box
2) A signed Merkur buckle
3) See through case back
and a bonus, because it wasn't mentioned in the video:
4) A sapphire crystal for better durability and slightly slimmer profile
Gorgeous piece, and I cant recommend it enough.
Good to hear all of that mate! Yes, I'm a big fan of mine. Cheers!
@@JustOneMoreWatch
Because I was so excited bout this piece, I connected with a UA-camr that lives close to where I'm at in Malaysia, and here is his review on my watch!
Some interesting highlights: from the dimensions, there are some differences too, with mine having a 20mm lug width VS the 18mm one you've got:
ua-cam.com/video/hZW-eexYIsU/v-deo.html&ab_channel=NMwatch
Which makes me wonder of the variations this watch has which aren't indicated on the website.
But these little quirks aside, just wanted to express my thanks again, and cheers to the amazing work that you guys do.
Hi Mate
Could you please share the purchase link from that store?
Thanks
I'm like you Jody, a total sucker for military watches from days gone by. I can forgive all it's weird quirks, except one. The crow's foot. That is a British designation with a specific meaning and the DoD never licensed it out. Otherwise, it's a lovely wee watch
MoD. DoD is US. MoD or Ministry of Defence is UK
@@lyndonlouie4108 Good catch. Yes, you are right, I had a thinko (like a typo, but from the brain not the finger)
Have the gray dial version. Very cool watch.
I love the dial case and handset. But TBH i think the case back and buckle are dealbreakers for me and not because they aren’t functional. It just gives me the feeling its a “parts bin” kind of watch. It leads to the question.. what else has been “borrowed or stolen”? And for $250 odd usd I think clients deserve a product that feels complete. Merkur really need to fix those little things IMO.
Haven’t bought one in the sale. But maybe I should have 🤔
Let’s find out 😅
Love Big Eyes! The broad arrow is an absolute deal breaker. Having less than nothing to do with British Military, it's even tackier than Glycine's "COMBAT".
It’s the Combat Sub. Why is putting the name of the watch on the dial tacky?
Yes, that's a bit of a deal breaker for me too. Why claim to be something you're not?
@@alastairheptonstall7982 Exactly, it's a poser thing.
Yeah it's one of the big issues I have with the watch. I don't like companies of any type just using military symbolism in any form willy nilly. It is especially strange since it is so esoteric that most don't know what it is and the other reason is it clutters the dial. They didn't need it at all.
I signed up for the kickstarter campaign on this great looking watch and I think the price for the early bird was $175. However I was notified that the campaign had been shut down as the watch was already available and therefore they shouldn't be using kickstarter - put mean off the brand
Yep, and not only was it available already they even had it issued under the brand fod and then only swapped the name to merkur and re-released it then did the Kickstarter. Completely backwards , I think they just used the Kickstarter as a form of advertisement.
Very nice Jody, thanks for another great video. Keep well.
This one is a little odd. However Merkur really do make some great looking pieces. I absolutely love my Laurel Alpinist homage from them.
Yeah, I wish I had gotten a Laurel. Wish they'd make more.
@@commentjedi A lot of people do I think. I've had a few email me asking to buy mine. I don't know why they don't just make more.
I think it was a collaboration with some Facebook group. Probably some kind of covenant exists?
@@commentjedi Ah yeah, you're right. I remember now.
Thank you very much for reviewing this. Excellent review! I was tossing up between this and a Hemel Air Foil and the Hemel won. (42mm and 100mm water resistance, full lume dial and bezel, as well as decent sized subdial hands as I reckon the subdial hands on this are just too short). It really is a lovely piece though and I would still like to own one. PS apparently the main hands on this were based on the G10 (or is it W10) military issue watches - that is why the hour hand is squared off. Read this on their website.
i haven't checked in on this channel in a while- wow Jody has over a quarter million subs. consistency really pays off with the algorithm!
How nice to have a watch brand named after the Merkur XR4Ti (Ford Sierra in the US - late 80's). Cool little watch though.
I own an older Merkur FOD chronograph with a different dial but the same case and I also absolutely love it. I love the size and especially the acrylic crystal wich looks much nicer than sapphire. I bought mine used and it came with both a solid and a display case back. Since the case is pretty much identical to all Seagull 1963s I would assume that you can just order one of those display case backs and retrofit it.
So close to loving this. Love the dial, hands, lume and case dimensions. And always wanted a seagull st19 movement, but the color scheme of the 1963 just didn't appeal to me. But this one is totally up my alley. It's just that, as you mention, it's such a pretty movement to look at. Hope they offer one with a display caseback in the near future.
I do appreciate Merkur's desire to be different. I have two of their watches and pleased with both.
I have just ordered the Pagani Snowflake (Tiffany blue) and this Merkur watch. Can't wait for them to arrive.
great watch! great vid!
Sweet watch. Sweet price. Sweet!
Musical watch boxes should totally be a thing! 😄
Great vid, Jody. One note perhaps: I too find it’s inspired by the Breguet-watch you compare it with, but not a straight up copy/homage/clomage. The crown is different, the hour hand, the numerals and unlike what you said, I think the subdials are not exactly the same either as the Breguet, with the inverted numerals.
It’s a nice watch. I actually like the lopped-off hour hand. I am glad you included the Kickstarter history. I suspect that the version 2.0 you made reference to will eventually come along and I think I will wait for that.
Fantastic looking watch, imo. A great alternative to the Sea-Gull 1963, which I'm not the biggest fan of (although I might still try it out). But this one looks more up my alley.
I have one from their last production run. I really like it.
That's a nice piece, but I wouldn't buy with Acrylic. I know some people like it, but tbh, I don't. I'd prefer mineral glass if price is the same, or slightly paying a little bit extra for sapphire even better. I'd wear it on my motorcycle, but I've worn acrylic in those circumstances and they get scratched up very easily.
This was a bit of an impulse buy during the Anniversary sale, glad to see you love it! (Whew) I’ve been wanting a mechanical chrono, and this is the perfect size, I much prefer this look to the Seagull 1963. Perhaps an after market see through case back could be out in? Anyone have a resource on that?
Its sold out. Lol.
And on that note, I keep waiting for their 300M Willard diver to come back into stock.
You need to review the modern g10 interpretations lad
I always wanted a Merkur XR4Ti when younger, now I can at least get a Merkur watch :) I actually like this one a ton, it was probably my favorite from your ally sale video. The strap is beautiful, I love how it has different shades as if it is distressed already. The big crown looks great as well. The only two things I don't like are the blunt hours hand and the broad arrow above the 6. That arrow had a meaning and it doesn't transfer. Other than that I'd say it's a winner for sure.
How is a steel case back a minus on a military style watch? I have never seen a genuine military or tool watch with a display back.
Great looking little watch! I love the overall aesthetic of this, and the mechanical chrono. Am I the only one who has an issue with big gaps between the strap and the case on watches? I just don't understand the need for the lugs to be so long, and the spring bar holes to be so far away from the case.
Another great video, Jody.
This is a beautiful watch but I'm afraid I can't bring myself to deal with Merkur again after a dreadful previous experience.
They took payment for an in-stock watch but failed to fulfil the order. Having allowed ample time for delivery, I followed up, only to be told the watch was not available.
They simply took my money, did nothing, and didn't tell me anything.
There was no apology and I had to push to get a refund. Never again.
It also looks like the Longines Big Eye chronograph, gorgeous little watch. Huge fan of the channel, greetings from Puerto Rico 🇵🇷
It's a beauty,but after two bad experiences with Seagull chronograph movements I'm a bit nervous.
I love this thing but i cant buy one because they dont have a sapphire option. I would polywatch the crystal off in under a month. 🤦🏻♂️
Looks like a Timex Expedition!
Merkur or Sugess. Deciding between these 2. Apart from price, merkur slightly more expensive. Is the quality same or better than sugess chronograph ? Anyone own these 2 watch at the same time?
your reviews are so inspiring thank you !!!
I bought a Merkur before seeing this review thanks to their seemingly interesting aesthetics. They haven't even shipped it yet quoting manufacturing delays but they do seem like a promising watchmaker. Let's see how it goes.
So you didn't buy it, you ordered it. Do they keep your money?
I think the highlight of my Seagull Chronograph is the exhibition window, the movement is beautiful. Anyway this is a very nice piece!
I like the Sun Record T Shirt. Elvis seems to be trending in the watch world.
Ciao from Italy 🇮🇹! I appreciate the reference!
I like this a lot ! I'm waiting for my 2nd Hoglund & Sons chronograph from a kick starter ( I ordered the blue). I'd like to know what you think about that one as well ! Thanks for the review Jody !👍❤
I would say check out their 38mm salmon dial watch! They also have one in a rose dial. Stunning little watches
I own it! In fact I own 3 Merkur models. They are my second favourite Chinese brand! Great watches! Thanks Jody!
I'd love to see you review a Merkur Seizenn, the Timex Q homage they make
Cool looking watch, that's for sure. It's just the minute counter markers, why are they lumed? The hand itself is not lumed (red), so why? Guess it looks good in the dark, but it surves no purpose, just reminds you there's a subdial there and makes the dial busier. It's these little things that I can't bring myself to ignore. Hope I make sense.
I'm undecided between this and the Yema chrono (mechaquartz)
I was thinking about buying one of these a few days ago after looking at affordable mechanical chronos with the ST19 movement without being a seagull 1963 since I'm not a huge fan of the look of that particular piece. I ended up going with the Lorier Gemini (should be here by Tueday fingers crossed) but this was a close second
The Lorier Gemini is twice the watch. Great choice!
I had the Gemini, it's definitely a gorgeous watch. Unfortunately mine had a bad movement in it. Went back for repairs and came back worse. It really left me with a bad impression of the seagull st-19. Which sucks because I really wanted that Gemini and this big eye and countless other chronos that use that movement. Now I don't trust it. Hopefully yours is fine though. It's a real stunner.
This has been in my Ali express cart for two weeks
Ordered mine March 31. As of today (4-27) it's still at the sorting center. Been there 2 or 3 weeks.
That Sea Gull movement is not shock resistant as I found out. Its replacement has seen heavy use as a stopwatch for a month or so and now that function started getting flaky, so it's getting retired. I Like Merkur but the Sea Gull movement (which they use a lot) not so much.
Absolutely gorgeous little watch , I got the 1963 ( keeping accurate time???) ,not sure About The Longevity of the movement
I must say that I’m impressed by this watch! It really looks gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous!
I must also say that your new set up with the lights and most of all the camera is absolutely fantastic! The images are crisp, the colors are spot on … and I can even say that you’re even better looking! 😁👍🏻
Thanks for sharing.
This one is part of the KS campaign, not just the one with the bezel, it's cheaper on KS than on their site or Ali....
Do more watches from Merkur - they are great.
Looks like a copy of an IWC, esp. that short hour hand and triangle at the 12. Love this review and style of watch!
Wow, I really like this. If I didn't already have a a Duro and a G, I'd go for this.
If only the minute hand extends to the minute rail and hour hand is not truncated. In addition, a see through case back is a must for the beautiful st19 movement.
Why not exhibition case back? That movement inside should be visible, it’s a beauty
I got a grey one. Very cool ;-)
Would be nice if the minute hand was just a little longer and extended to the indices.
nice...but the numbers look a tad too thick (bold), and as a result not as clear?
I would love to see a best 10 Fifty fantoms homeage. Or the best from aliexpress
Glorious stuff right there
Watch 9 Price 6 yes I've got a Seagull 1963 38mm
Jody, you cost me money !!! :-D I have been eyeing this little beauty for some time, but your $34 discount code dragged me over the line - just ordered !! I already have the Pierre Paulin "Racing Chrono" from Merkur, and it is a great little watch, so I am expecting the same from this "Big Eye" :-) Anyway, you don´t come across many military style mechanichal column chronos at that pricepoint anyway :-) Will be swapping the Pierre Paulin clasp out with a no name butterfly clasp though, just to numb down my OCD - the broad arrow on the dial I can live with, even though it does seem a little tacky - however it balances the dial, and I´d rather have that than some cheasy text on that large black otherwise empty space on the dial.
BTW the cut off hour hand is probably a tribute to IWC´s original pilots chonos ! :-)
Wondering if when Jody's son was born he looked up at Dad and said, "HULLO!!"
Like the watch but the non exhibition case back is a deal breaker for me (looking for a Seagull 1963 alternative).
Love the watch; love the enthusiasm; love the video.
Nice watch, but a 16mm strap is two thin for my wrist. I also wish that a watchmaker would put a proper 12-hour timer register on the dial, instead of the useless second hand.
Extremely legible, nice. I really like it's profile.
very nice... i really like it.... cheers
they should definitely put some longer hands on those subdials.
The function of a watch as I see it is to tell the time so how accurate is it?
pretty nice, but the misuse of the broad arrow is a bit off-putting when it was never issued to british forces
Hi Jody, Would you please consider reviewing the new Cadisen Explorer homage? Looks gorgeous, but I’m not sure if I should pull the trigger. Thank you kindly, sir! Eli
Another great video Jody. The close ups of this watch are brilliant. Loving the new camera work. Keep up the great work
Ready for some full size watch reviews again! Nice review though, type of watch I like but the size not
Retrooooo. . ❤️❤️❤️... I am liking it
I feel obligated to get one seeing that the brand name sounds exactly like my last name "Mercure".
Jodi it look small on your hand 🤔 probably 40 would be better especially for a pilot chrono. It look very nice 😘.... Remind me a bit of Breitling too.. Must be the vintage style trend now.
F@#& OFF Scammers😡😡😡
I see the word Merkur and I think razors and razor blades from Merkur Solingen. What's next from China, the Phillips or the Norelco watch?
I just ordered one using the indicated coupon, thanks. The TypeXX was also deployed in the French DGAC (Direction Generale de L'Aviation Civile). My dad had one from 1964. Unfortunately the Vialjoux movement ended all rusted. I agree, this Merkur homage would be better with the original Breguet hands, and a see thru case back for the ST19. Now I'm fishing for a nicely embossed leather strap on Ali, because this watch is a bit thick, any brand in mind ?
The macro lens is a little brutal on the minor imperfections probably not visible to old men's eyes
Not a bad watch BUT I think the seagull has a lot more going for it.
Nice video 👍😎