One small amendment to the process for the hose under the expansion tank: the little clip must be pulled out (not off) to get the hose off the tank, but then immediately push the clip back in/on to the fitting so it doesn't fall off or get lost. You can do this because the "nozzle" that the hose goes on is fortunately shaped to open the clip as you press the tank into the hose and then the clip snaps into place holding the hose onto the tank.
What if the metal clip is missing? I only have the clamp. Had a coolant leak and replaced the tank but it is STILL leaking because the coolant level is still dropping below the halfway seam after each drive which triggers the sensor. Wondering if this missing clip is the culprit?🤔
Just had the cooling system bite me in the ass last week. Low coolant light, added some, made it three miles up the road and steam started coming out from under the hood. Problem? Thermostat. There are companies out there that make a fail open thermostat, worse case scenario is your car runs cool. These normal fail closed cause overheating, possible engine block problems unless you immediately pull over and turn the car off. Why don't manufacturers use fail open type thermostats? I know, I know, it's a money maker for service departments. Just irritating as all hell. Great video and thanks for the info!
So incredibly helpful- my issue right now- fingers crossed this resolves it! Nothing like planning an upcoming fall Midwest weekend with a beer and expansion tank replacement! Hopefully project doesn’t take too long.
I love that your tags say saab story lol that’s what I call mine.Thanks for your video. I think my expansion tank is cracked, going to change that and see if I need to change the hoses later.
My leak was in the heater valve, hairline Crack. Never could see it. Had similar tire seal issue Costco discovered it. I cleaned up the rim with tire off. Good to go now.
In the factory we had a kind of soapwater that we put on the hoses in order to make them slide over the connectors. I can imagine that it makes the hoses stick to the connectors pretty badly...
I’ll swap you my ‘ Check engine light’ for your tire pressure problem. I’m running out of ideas and I live in Queensland Australia and we don’t have a Saab dealer hear! You mention the word Saab and you can see and feel the negative vibes immediately! Enjoy your show.
Had the same issue with my 9-3 Aero, done the same job but consider having a ECU update to the latest firmware as it keeps the fan on longer so you will not run into the issue again it is a know issue. Great video my friend.
@@WeakestofWeeks I have done it through a tech2 clone and shot my ecu, but then the guys from trionictuning forum helped me out with it and i got my ecu running again if you take a look at the forum look for Bricked ECU ME9.6 under the ME9.6 by Wofy thats me send me an IM and i can help you out for it. If you have SAAB WIS search for Bulletin 206-2722
Thanks for the info! I'll be sure to check it out. Are there any benifits to updating the ECU? Not a common talked about upgrade so I'm curious as to the benefits.
@@WeakestofWeeks Well it is a known issue with the 9-3 2.8, when the car is driven hard and you turn the car off the heat tends to build in the engine bay, this comprimizes the expantion tank leading to the actual tank cracking and starting to leak, in my case it actually seperated in two halves. The fix from SAAB was 1. New expation tank (different model number) came with 2 new hoses, new routing of the hoses and 3 a new firmware version that keeps the fan on when you stop the car in case it has a too high temp in the engine bay
Great video. I have the same leaking coolant problem but there was NO metal ring clip attached to the bottom hose... it only had the regular anchor clamps... should I order the metal clip?
I have a 07 Saab 9-3 Aero Convertible 2.8... I have loose rubber holes, to the right of the battery... Next to the ABS modulator..... I have no idea where to connect.... Need help please...
You forget the O ring... that go in the blok above the waterpomp.. it can leak from there also good fix.. I thought you dont have the run it with out the cap.. but good think do
Good video buddy went to check my coolant leaves after winter storage and same issue. Cape broke and j noticed those 2 small coolant lines to be swollen with a very small leak. I think I'll fix it the same way you did.. however I was thinning of doing the d088 silicone hoses.
Thanks friend! I would go with the NG9-5 coolant overflow hoses (supposedly an upgrade over the NG9-3 version and direct replacement) and leave the rest of the coolant hoses stock. I've heard a few folks with issue's long term with the do88 coolant hoses and why I never put them on my car.
@ZenityStudios my car is only used here in summer months so I said I'd try to Dorman brand on rock auto and I replaced my hose clapms with stainless ones. Not sure if it will last but I couldn't tell any quality difference between the dorman and the oem personally
You probably do have an issue with the tyres, but anyhow, you should check the tyre pressure every week, and top up as necessary, leaks happen no matter what...
Be nice if someone started making a nice alloy version. I know there’s the round metal one from I think original Saab, but I find it very ugly and very expensive. Thanks for the vid. I’ve been looking to upgrade this for a wile now
When i repainted my wheels i found a hairline fracture in the joint on the in-side of the wheel, not only on my Saab but on my Audi to both front passenger wheels. The side that hits curbs the most, well that was my conclusion. uk here.
I haven’t read all the replies but I have two Sabbs. Both 2008 and both 9-3. And both lose coolant and both give me the low coolant. My take is that this is a manufacturer defect. Duh right.
My low coolant light came on in my 06 9-3 2.8l so I added some in expansion tank. After next run turned car off and could hear it gurgling in tank. Then a puddle under car. All I can think is dreaded head gasket. Could I be wrong??
My coolant tank keeps being empty in am.... I bought a new cap but it still does it...any suggestions from anybody and has it happened to anybody here... it fills up if I undo the cap but once I place the cap back on ..it goes empty again 🤷🏽♀️
@@axxisblack Actually my coolant cap FINALLY started to work... I'm thinking I didn't have it screwed on properly..either that or whatever was causing the issue disappeared....I had went on an hour drive and after that it started working....so I'm not sure....it could have been the fast pace on the highway blew out the kink that was causing problem🤷🏽♀️.so anyway once you buy a new cap make sure it's on the right way....I bought the yellow one that's about $8...but there are more expensive ones that cost $25...but like I said...mine is working fine now! Good Luck!
@Hyrule Journey '06 Aero Combi, 230K here. I've replaced my tank repeatedly, many pressure tests, different caps including some rated higher and lower pressures, thermostat housing and seal, and of course many, many of those return hoses and clamps. There is a theory on the forums that the construction of the new tank/ size of the chambers lends itself to crossing the return hoses to reduce the pressure on the turbo return, I've tried both ways. I've tried different caps rated with different pressures, even driven with the cap loose. Never any sign of coolant dripping to the ground, coolant in the oil, white smoke or smells of coolant from the heater box. I'm almost perfectly sure that the coolant is lost only while running at temperature. It has always comes back in time. I have driven for many weeks, even months with the coolant light on, never ran so low on coolant that it overheated. This has been going on for nearly 15 years. At it's worst, it would take a pint or more a week of coolant, it's a lot. I would think that if it was a head gasket (apparently these engines are known to sometimes lose torque on the head bolts, and there is an area where cracks in the head are somewhat common, so it would make some sense) or leak into the turbo, it would get worse over 200,000 miles, I'd have seen it in the oil or seen some white smoke from the exhaust, or had the turbo fail. I'm also pretty sure you would pick it up on a pressure test and find leaks on the ground if it were in the heater core (plus you would smell it), if it were the radiator or expansion tank, big coolant hoses, thermostat or water pump. I think the most common culprit 99% of the time, is those return hoses and clamps (especially the turbo coolant return) being positioned above the turbo. Many times I get coolant steam and smell at traffic lights, and you can see the leaks and residue on the turbo. I literally always have new ones and tools in the car, I've replaced them on the side of the road and in hotel parking lots. For sure, that's the hottest part of the engine bay, those hoses bulge and split, i even think the spring steel of the clamps softens. A fresh set definitely helps for a while at least, you can go months without the coolant light. I've recently tried some silicone hoses (about 60 bucks on ebay, they are often bright red.) with some best quality 1/2" wide stainless hose clamps. So far, so good.
@@zincfive love ur explanation. I'm losing an entire gallon of coolant every time I drive (w no puddles or signs of leaking!). Aero combi 173k miles. Just patched small crack in hose. Still dissapears from expansion tank w light on. Takes a gallon of the stuff to refill.
Thanks for doing these V6 videos, not much out there on these Saabs!
Finally! Thank you! I've watched and read a dozen threads and yours is the ONLY one to show how to get the hose connector off the bottom of the tank.
@Otis Jordan Now you're sure. No one cares.
One small amendment to the process for the hose under the expansion tank: the little clip must be pulled out (not off) to get the hose off the tank, but then immediately push the clip back in/on to the fitting so it doesn't fall off or get lost. You can do this because the "nozzle" that the hose goes on is fortunately shaped to open the clip as you press the tank into the hose and then the clip snaps into place holding the hose onto the tank.
As a former a BMW owner this is sage advice! don't ask me how I know, though!👍
What if the metal clip is missing? I only have the clamp. Had a coolant leak and replaced the tank but it is STILL leaking because the coolant level is still dropping below the halfway seam after each drive which triggers the sensor. Wondering if this missing clip is the culprit?🤔
Just had the cooling system bite me in the ass last week. Low coolant light, added some, made it three miles up the road and steam started coming out from under the hood. Problem? Thermostat. There are companies out there that make a fail open thermostat, worse case scenario is your car runs cool. These normal fail closed cause overheating, possible engine block problems unless you immediately pull over and turn the car off. Why don't manufacturers use fail open type thermostats? I know, I know, it's a money maker for service departments. Just irritating as all hell.
Great video and thanks for the info!
So incredibly helpful- my issue right now- fingers crossed this resolves it! Nothing like planning an upcoming fall Midwest weekend with a beer and expansion tank replacement! Hopefully project doesn’t take too long.
This was super helpful, I am new to Saab ownership and I think this is the solution to my problem
This is the best video I've seen on replacing the expansion tank. Will definitely be rewatching when I do mine before SOC.
I love that your tags say saab story lol that’s what I call mine.Thanks for your video. I think my expansion tank is cracked, going to change that and see if I need to change the hoses later.
My leak was in the heater valve, hairline Crack. Never could see it.
Had similar tire seal issue Costco discovered it. I cleaned up the rim with tire off. Good to go now.
In the factory we had a kind of soapwater that we put on the hoses in order to make them slide over the connectors. I can imagine that it makes the hoses stick to the connectors pretty badly...
sometime the sensor in the tank can go bad so you may not have any leaks.
I’ll swap you my ‘ Check engine light’ for your tire pressure problem. I’m running out of ideas and I live in Queensland Australia and we don’t have a Saab dealer hear! You mention the word Saab and you can see and feel the negative vibes immediately! Enjoy your show.
Do you have access to a TECH2 or OBD monitor
Had the same issue with my 9-3 Aero, done the same job but consider having a ECU update to the latest firmware as it keeps the fan on longer so you will not run into the issue again it is a know issue. Great video my friend.
Thanks for watching! Whats the process for updating the ECU? Done via tech2? I've never heard of updating it.
@@WeakestofWeeks I have done it through a tech2 clone and shot my ecu, but then the guys from trionictuning forum helped me out with it and i got my ecu running again if you take a look at the forum look for Bricked ECU ME9.6 under the ME9.6 by Wofy thats me send me an IM and i can help you out for it. If you have SAAB WIS search for Bulletin 206-2722
@@WeakestofWeeks Sorry by the way the latest firmware is the following 55571123 if you have someone with a Tech2 verify it
Thanks for the info! I'll be sure to check it out. Are there any benifits to updating the ECU? Not a common talked about upgrade so I'm curious as to the benefits.
@@WeakestofWeeks Well it is a known issue with the 9-3 2.8, when the car is driven hard and you turn the car off the heat tends to build in the engine bay, this comprimizes the expantion tank leading to the actual tank cracking and starting to leak, in my case it actually seperated in two halves.
The fix from SAAB was 1. New expation tank (different model number) came with 2 new hoses, new routing of the hoses and 3 a new firmware version that keeps the fan on when you stop the car in case it has a too high temp in the engine bay
Dorman is OEM part for expansion tank, and oil filter cap its just in a Saab Original box.
Great video. I have the same leaking coolant problem but there was NO metal ring clip attached to the bottom hose... it only had the regular anchor clamps... should I order the metal clip?
I have a 07 Saab 9-3 Aero Convertible 2.8...
I have loose rubber holes,
to the right of the battery... Next to the ABS modulator.....
I have no idea where to connect....
Need help please...
You forget the O ring... that go in the blok above the waterpomp.. it can leak from there also good fix.. I thought you dont have the run it with out the cap.. but good think do
Dude you sound just like ERIC FORMIN FROM THE 70'S SHOW
🤣
Интересно. А нет видео как заменить на нём датчик давления масла?
Good video buddy went to check my coolant leaves after winter storage and same issue. Cape broke and j noticed those 2 small coolant lines to be swollen with a very small leak. I think I'll fix it the same way you did.. however I was thinning of doing the d088 silicone hoses.
Thanks friend! I would go with the NG9-5 coolant overflow hoses (supposedly an upgrade over the NG9-3 version and direct replacement) and leave the rest of the coolant hoses stock. I've heard a few folks with issue's long term with the do88 coolant hoses and why I never put them on my car.
@@WeakestofWeeks thanks buddy ! I took your advice. Cheers
@@hobbyavenue6740 Which ones did you get? can you share a link? I have to replace mine
@ZenityStudios my car is only used here in summer months so I said I'd try to Dorman brand on rock auto and I replaced my hose clapms with stainless ones. Not sure if it will last but I couldn't tell any quality difference between the dorman and the oem personally
You probably do have an issue with the tyres, but anyhow, you should check the tyre pressure every week, and top up as necessary, leaks happen no matter what...
I replaced the expansion tank on my 2.0t last week due to it having a crack in it.
Will this also apply to a 2005 Saab 9-3 aero? The reservoir placement looks nearly identical
Be nice if someone started making a nice alloy version. I know there’s the round metal one from I think original Saab, but I find it very ugly and very expensive. Thanks for the vid. I’ve been looking to upgrade this for a wile now
When i repainted my wheels i found a hairline fracture in the joint on the in-side of the wheel, not only on my Saab but on my Audi to both front passenger wheels. The side that hits curbs the most, well that was my conclusion. uk here.
Did you make or buy that tool that removes those upper hose clamps? I need one. Seems to work better than a pair of pliers LOL
Made it but you can buy something similar. Very handy to have! www.amazon.com/dp/B0177M21EQ/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_wIStEbY4CQ3YB
Where is the fill line when it's cold?
I haven’t read all the replies but I have two Sabbs. Both 2008 and both 9-3. And both lose coolant and both give me the low coolant. My take is that this is a manufacturer defect. Duh right.
Think food idea top do brake booster to and no clamps with upgraded goses?
goes? Have silver heat tube over thrm
Try to get tip radiator hose tbsts plastic and cracked tobturbo.. they heavenly metal now
My cap broke a d I think ybsts where coolant goes... it goes right out cap on engine I can here it. Just ordered new today
My low coolant light came on in my 06 9-3 2.8l so I added some in expansion tank. After next run turned car off and could hear it gurgling in tank. Then a puddle under car. All I can think is dreaded head gasket. Could I be wrong??
Did you figure it out I have the same problem
Exact same problem here!!
Nice car. Great job!
luckily my saab doesnt have tyre pressure monitor, they mislead the driver lots of time
My coolant tank keeps being empty in am.... I bought a new cap but it still does it...any suggestions from anybody and has it happened to anybody here... it fills up if I undo the cap but once I place the cap back on ..it goes empty again 🤷🏽♀️
Same, sorry. Found anything please?
@@axxisblack Actually my coolant cap FINALLY started to work... I'm thinking I didn't have it screwed on properly..either that or whatever was causing the issue disappeared....I had went on an hour drive and after that it started working....so I'm not sure....it could have been the fast pace on the highway blew out the kink that was causing problem🤷🏽♀️.so anyway once you buy a new cap make sure it's on the right way....I bought the yellow one that's about $8...but there are more expensive ones that cost $25...but like I said...mine is working fine now! Good Luck!
I replaced my expansion tank last summer but that didn't fix my leak. I gotta fill it up every month or so. Any idea ?
Also I don't really notice any leak under the car
@@hyrulejourney1205 headgasket maybe
@Hyrule Journey
'06 Aero Combi, 230K here. I've replaced my tank repeatedly, many pressure tests, different caps including some rated higher and lower pressures, thermostat housing and seal, and of course many, many of those return hoses and clamps. There is a theory on the forums that the construction of the new tank/ size of the chambers lends itself to crossing the return hoses to reduce the pressure on the turbo return, I've tried both ways. I've tried different caps rated with different pressures, even driven with the cap loose. Never any sign of coolant dripping to the ground, coolant in the oil, white smoke or smells of coolant from the heater box. I'm almost perfectly sure that the coolant is lost only while running at temperature.
It has always comes back in time. I have driven for many weeks, even months with the coolant light on, never ran so low on coolant that it overheated.
This has been going on for nearly 15 years. At it's worst, it would take a pint or more a week of coolant, it's a lot.
I would think that if it was a head gasket (apparently these engines are known to sometimes lose torque on the head bolts, and there is an area where cracks in the head are somewhat common, so it would make some sense) or leak into the turbo, it would get worse over 200,000 miles, I'd have seen it in the oil or seen some white smoke from the exhaust, or had the turbo fail.
I'm also pretty sure you would pick it up on a pressure test and find leaks on the ground if it were in the heater core (plus you would smell it), if it were the radiator or expansion tank, big coolant hoses, thermostat or water pump.
I think the most common culprit 99% of the time, is those return hoses and clamps (especially the turbo coolant return) being positioned above the turbo. Many times I get coolant steam and smell at traffic lights, and you can see the leaks and residue on the turbo. I literally always have new ones and tools in the car, I've replaced them on the side of the road and in hotel parking lots. For sure, that's the hottest part of the engine bay, those hoses bulge and split, i even think the spring steel of the clamps softens. A fresh set definitely helps for a while at least, you can go months without the coolant light.
I've recently tried some silicone hoses (about 60 bucks on ebay, they are often bright red.) with some best quality 1/2" wide stainless hose clamps.
So far, so good.
@@zincfive love ur explanation. I'm losing an entire gallon of coolant every time I drive (w no puddles or signs of leaking!). Aero combi 173k miles. Just patched small crack in hose. Still dissapears from expansion tank w light on. Takes a gallon of the stuff to refill.
Damn it.
I have the metal one. No leaks
You need flush bro
Looks old