I just received a newsletter from the Amherst Model RR Society. They put on the largest Model Railroad show in North America of which I am a vender. One subject of the letter was in reference to a lady's model railroad group who will be showing their layout and modeling. According to the newsletter women now comprise 28% of model railroaders in the US.
Dawn, your explanation of soldering was the best I’ve seen. Soldering has been the most frustrating part of model railroading for me. Your method makes it easy for me to get solid, shiny joints. Thank you very much indeed. Alan
Watching this gave me the idea to incorporate (at some point - i have the tram!) into my city backdrop that will sit over my small fiddle yard. It does mean i will somehow have to source a shuttle controller and get it to Costa Rica without breaking the bank!
Sounds great! I appreciate the logistics - and cost - might be tricky though. I have friends in Costa Rica who own the Golfo Dulce Retreat - they moved there over 15 years ago from London and I've been following their adventures and challenges.
That's so helpful, especially the shuttle controllers. I had no idea such affordable and relatively user friendly things existed ... I foresee a future project of a loco on a shelf running around 3/4s of my office ☺️
Oooh thanks Dawn! As usual, you’re full of encouragement and the shuttle controllers are just what I’ll need for my layout (whenever it finally gets built). Am I dreaming, or did I espy a banana in there somewhere? ❤
Very useful for me, especially the shuttle controller part. I will be honest I don't much like soldering, but it's a necessary in our hobby. When I say, you should definitely think about teaching techniques and tips for modellers, because I genuinely mean it, you are so good at it. You have really given me renewed gusto, to make a serious start on my layout. I have money on you completing LK on schedule! Keep up your absolutely amazing work on this channel and for the hobby as a whole. To the 1st lady of model Railways, the title I've bestowed upon you, thank you for making the hobby so enjoyable again. See you Wednesday at 1930!
Whilst being able to solder is very useful. As an alternative to the fishplate droppers I buy Peco track with the soldering already done, with 10cm drop wires then I only need to use the electrical block connectors. No soldering. Phew!😊
The soldering is well explained, and you are dead right about lead Free ( Higher temperatures and not as strong) , I teach electronics and explain this to all new students. The wire stripping and tinning is also perfect, flux really helps the solder flow smoothly. Awesome video as usual Dawn Best Regards Andrew
Thank you Andrew - high praise indeed! I know there are several ways to solder, but this is the way that works for me. Always a challenge to demonstrate soldering but hope it was helpful to people who might feel a little daunted by the idea. :-)
3 місяці тому+1
I must say those automatic end to end controllers look really good. Having seen this, I really think I might now have to dedicate one of my shelf layout lines to an automatic shuttle for my class 121, running at the back of the shelf, posibly raised up, while I operate the front two lines.
Hi Dawn. A very clear, informative and entertaining tutorial, undertaken in a clean, uncluttered space and at a steady presentational pace: just what we've learned to expect from you. "You can do anything if you put your mind to it, even if putting your mind to it means getting someone to do it for you!" So true & a lesson for life in general. "Pointless" layouts is a top tip. My 92-year old friend has a 3 track, 21ft × 5ft setup with zero points but lots of scenery. He gets next to no electrical issues, whilst the trains still look great weaving their way through the scenery. Can't argue with either Guagemaster of H&M controllers. Top quality. Soldering is not my strong suit, so it was very useful to see how you do it. So many YT modellers just assume people know how it's done. I wish more exhibitors would use shuttle controllers. People really want to chat with exhibitors, but as you say, it's difficult to interract with the paying public when you're constantly having to fiddle with controllers. As you say , accurate stopping calcs are critical and can be a little challenging. I recall the first time I used one. My maths was fine until I decided to run my Hornby Tornado on the line. It has a massive flywheel effect, so went careering into the station buffers. PS: I was at GETS on Saturday, but a friend of mine was there on Sunday with his better half & says he saw you queuing with the Great Unwashed to gain entry: nuff respect to you for not jumping the queue with a "VIP" pass!
Hi Stephen - thank you as always for such considered and thoughtful comments. I really value your feedback. I love the story about the Hornby Tornado - made me laugh, though I'm sure it wasn't funny at the time! Hope the loco was ok? GETS was a fantastic day out - mainly because it was a chance to see so many people all in one place. Great to put names to faces and just have a chat. And some amazing layouts too - I have my favourite from the show (More on that later this week!) - what was yours? I got talking to Kevin the electrician in the queue who is an electrician - and he gave me a thumbs up for my soldering... so, phew! I've have a professional seal of approval.
@modelrailwayquest Thank you. That's very nice of you to say so. Sorry I missed you. Another time, perhaps? My favourite layout was Redbridge Wharf. Overall, I didn't think - layout wise - it was as good as either last year or the NEC bash earlier this year. But the event seemed to be well-patronised, and there was definitely a buzz about the place. I picked up a few bargains, too! I see Charlie triumphed once again (have I got that right?). Perhaps Hornby will let him keep the trophy, just as FIFA allowed Brazil to keep the original World Cup when they won it for the 3rd time?! Off to practice my soldering...
A first-rate presentation on a subject that many modellers (regardless of gender) don't enjoy doing! My early experiences with that great British invention (the white metal kit) was my baptism of fire! The older Hammant and Morgan transformers (like your Safety Minor) are still amongst the best ever made. My layout is still powered by an H & M Duette. Looking forward to the next episode in the saga!😊
Practise makes perfect ;-) It was quite stressful trying to solder while being "watched" by a camera. Not sure I would make a Blue Peter presenter!! :-)
Thanks Dawn a very informative tutorial. It has spired me to build a new layout to try out some of the Block Signalling accessories. It struck me that whilst I use DCC mainly, the shuttle line would allow me to add an old unused DC loco to the layout!
I've only been doing this for 60 years ;-) Didn't know about the SS2A DC Shuttle. I think the way you presented this is gentle for the anxious and yet us dinosaurs can still learn a thing or two, so well done. I'm pretty entrenched in DC. I do have DCC in my On30 but wow it's expensive. Chuff cams, tuning so they chuff harder going up hill. Astounding sound but expensive. The motor control is really good. There is nothing wrong with DC. My O gauge is DC and so will be my N gauge. Anyway, well done.
@@modelrailwayquest Total sense :-) Keep up the good work. Railway modelling will teach you electrics, electronics, carpentry, engineering, measure twice cut once etc etc. It's not unreachable, the second hand market s vibrant. We need more people like you frankly to promote the hobby.
That was good fun. Admiring your safety minor, which, of course as you've likely discovered, is an autotransformer, not resistance. H&M made resistance with mattes and the autos like the safety minor and powermaster, substantially more expensive than the equivalent duette which is a resitance. Funny you mention dc as being traditional: which, of course it is. The earliest electric models such as planck or carette were all 2 rail intended to run on batteries. Carlisle and finch, knapp, howard etc, all the 2" gaugers, were all intended to run on dc batteries, however the actual motors were field wound (discounting the planck which was bobbin electomagnet, (the model only appearing 3 years after siemens electric motor demonstration, so electric motors were still in development stage) so they ran on dc or ac. Ives ran resistance switching for harsh dc, and where household electricity was available, had a cutout for the better ac. Lionels early new departures and the dual presupermotor designs used series or parallel wiring switching for either ac or dc running. Dc of course lost favour when reliable power supplies became available, ac becoming the norm with its superior running characteristics. With this came vastly heavier construction, previously rolling stock was as lightweight as practicable to facilitate battery longevity. Dc generally became more useful postwar with the development of decent anisotropic permanent magnets which provided reliable and simple reversing, and the motors were cheap to make. Generally nearly all manufacturers ended up with dc motors one way or the other, the superior torque, smoother running, brush longevity, armature longevity etc of ac motors just didn't outweigh that dc motors were so much cheaper to use, and for slow speed running on a model railway ac running on dc can provide a superior experience. Try a scale 0.06 mph from a 60 year old H0 steam locomotive.
Hi. Just for fun, here's a couple of suggestions for "film-themed" diorama layouts .... First, and almost too obvious, would be "The Railway Children". Less well known perhaps might be "The Quiet Man" (set in Ireland), and also "The Signalman" (based on a short story by Charles Dickens) ...
Clear, concise, to the point, no dissimulations or flummery. Just what `we` now expect of your comprehensive instructional video's guides. Okay one can always comment as to improving this that or the other, but I will not be so presumptuous nor rude. My only bit of advice (please) would be to possibly replace your soldering iron with a variable temperature version, which cost little more. Reason being, more for tip life, in addition clean the tip before returning it to its holder and or switching it off at the end of a session. As to your use of or term solder paste, which is totally incorrect for reference to the` flux`. As solder paste is a paste consisting of powdered solder suspended in a flux type medium, usually of the corrosive type and not at all recommended or suitable for soldering electrical components or joints. Take care.
HMDC from Hornby is a more cost effective DCC option and sits nicely in the middle of a DC and old conventional DCC system. Yes the engines are still the same higher costs as all DCC models. The new TT120 scale is absolutely wonderful for a new starter like me and one high quality power supply from DCC CONCEPTS works perfectly. I know you can never show and test every option, good work anyway, keep it up. 🙂👍
Hi Dawn, I've just watched your update on Lady killers ( wonderful old film) and I found it very interesting. You may remember I messaged you about my layout, built as it would have been in the 1950s, is coming on. The baseboards are nearly finished. Looking forward to seeing more of your project soon. Kind regards Dave. From Southend on Sea.
I do remember David - and I featured it on the Wednesday Express a couple of weeks ago. Would love to see how you get on - as it's such a great idea. What are you using for glue?
Hi Dawn, in your description you have a list of topics, e.g. 1:30 - DC VS DCC: advantage.... If you start this list with 00:00 as in 00:00 Introduction (or hello or welcome etc) Then the video will be divided into UA-cam chapters. It is also best to always use 2 digit numbers, eg 01:30 rather than 1:30, and 01:01:30 if it is 1 hour 1 minute and 30 seconds. You can modify the description at any time to change what timestamps you have.
Very informative as always Dawn great video with your usual pace and professional presentation. I do think Klaus Nomi may contact you as at 15.40 in you have stolen his white gloves trademark 😅😅😅
That's a really good question but the answer is... it depends! Wire gauge is a key factor. Voltage drop is greater on thinner wire than thicker wire. Also, the speed you're running your locos. I'd say the average distance using a standard gauge wire is anything from 3 - 5 metres (9 -16 feet) but I'm sure someone here can provide greater clarity? I can also put you in touch with a garden rail expert who can tell you more if you'd like to email me your email address: modelrailwayquest@gmail.com
@@modelrailwayquest Thanks I am waiting to see if I shall have room for a proper model railway or just a coffee table 009 layout. All depends on the Lady🤔
You can still get flux cored solder but even with it I still use a separate flux although I tend to use a toothpick to apply it rather than a small brush. The flux helps the solder flow.
I think what she was using is flux core electronics grade solder, but I'm keen on using the added flux on rail track especially if it's older or has a bit of oxidation. The cleaner the better, also I've used a rotary tool with tiny wire brush, or exacto blade to scrape when I can't find the flux. LOL
Hello there. Out of those 2 shuttles you've linked with the discount, is there any difference to them other than the size? Trying to figure out if I lose anything by going with the cheaper option but they appear to have the same functionality. SS2A DC Shuttle Controller and SAS2-BR DC Shuttle Controller
I think there are several different theories about soldering - this way works for me, as I've found putting solder on the iron helps with the heat transfer.
@@modelrailwayquest Yes, make sure the bit is wetted BUT to make the joint put iron to items, heat, apply solder. That way the flux inside the cored solder ensures you get a perfect joint. Relying on utilising a blob of solder from the bit, where the flux is long evaporated, is not good practice.
Quite correct. Solder to joint first then apply heat from the iron. Agree scrupulously clean surfaces first to ensure the solder flows and without a dry joint
I just received a newsletter from the Amherst Model RR Society. They put on the largest Model Railroad show in North America of which I am a vender. One subject of the letter was in reference to a lady's model railroad group who will be showing their layout and modeling. According to the newsletter women now comprise 28% of model railroaders in the US.
We're planning to be there in 2026!
Dawn, your explanation of soldering was the best I’ve seen. Soldering has been the most frustrating part of model railroading for me. Your method makes it easy for me to get solid, shiny joints. Thank you very much indeed.
Alan
@@alank9674 thanks so much! Pleased you found it helpful and… happy soldering! 😊
Watching this gave me the idea to incorporate (at some point - i have the tram!) into my city backdrop that will sit over my small fiddle yard. It does mean i will somehow have to source a shuttle controller and get it to Costa Rica without breaking the bank!
Sounds great! I appreciate the logistics - and cost - might be tricky though. I have friends in Costa Rica who own the Golfo Dulce Retreat - they moved there over 15 years ago from London and I've been following their adventures and challenges.
That's so helpful, especially the shuttle controllers. I had no idea such affordable and relatively user friendly things existed ... I foresee a future project of a loco on a shelf running around 3/4s of my office ☺️
Fantastic! I look forward to hearing about your progress!
Oooh thanks Dawn! As usual, you’re full of encouragement and the shuttle controllers are just what I’ll need for my layout (whenever it finally gets built). Am I dreaming, or did I espy a banana in there somewhere? ❤
Thank you Marti - lovely feedback. You weren't dreaming - well done for spotting the banana! Can't wait to see your progress on your build xx
Absolutely brilliant video Dawn, your explanations and instructions on how to do wiring are excellent, thank you, 👏👏👏
So easy wiring dcc, Nice to see the old way though! ❤
Really good video. The layout is starting to take shape and it's is looking very exciting. 😊
Thank you - slowly but surely!
@@modelrailwayquest Well, it's very complicated and multi layered so these things take time. I am enjoying the journey.
Very useful for me, especially the shuttle controller part. I will be honest I don't much like soldering, but it's a necessary in our hobby. When I say, you should definitely think about teaching techniques and tips for modellers, because I genuinely mean it, you are so good at it. You have really given me renewed gusto, to make a serious start on my layout. I have money on you completing LK on schedule! Keep up your absolutely amazing work on this channel and for the hobby as a whole. To the 1st lady of model Railways, the title I've bestowed upon you, thank you for making the hobby so enjoyable again. See you Wednesday at 1930!
Whilst being able to solder is very useful. As an alternative to the fishplate droppers I buy Peco track with the soldering already done, with 10cm drop wires then I only need to use the electrical block connectors. No soldering. Phew!😊
Excellent tutorial, I can't wait to start working with models again when I have time away from the real things.
Lots of fun ahead!!
The soldering is well explained, and you are dead right about lead Free ( Higher temperatures and not as strong) , I teach electronics and explain this to all new students. The wire stripping and tinning is also perfect, flux really helps the solder flow smoothly.
Awesome video as usual Dawn Best Regards Andrew
Thank you Andrew - high praise indeed! I know there are several ways to solder, but this is the way that works for me. Always a challenge to demonstrate soldering but hope it was helpful to people who might feel a little daunted by the idea. :-)
I must say those automatic end to end controllers look really good. Having seen this, I really think I might now have to dedicate one of my shelf layout lines to an automatic shuttle for my class 121, running at the back of the shelf, posibly raised up, while I operate the front two lines.
Brilliant - keep me posted!
Hi Dawn. A very clear, informative and entertaining tutorial, undertaken in a clean, uncluttered space and at a steady presentational pace: just what we've learned to expect from you.
"You can do anything if you put your mind to it, even if putting your mind to it means getting someone to do it for you!" So true & a lesson for life in general.
"Pointless" layouts is a top tip. My 92-year old friend has a 3 track, 21ft × 5ft setup with zero points but lots of scenery. He gets next to no electrical issues, whilst the trains still look great weaving their way through the scenery.
Can't argue with either Guagemaster of H&M controllers. Top quality.
Soldering is not my strong suit, so it was very useful to see how you do it. So many YT modellers just assume people know how it's done.
I wish more exhibitors would use shuttle controllers. People really want to chat with exhibitors, but as you say, it's difficult to interract with the paying public when you're constantly having to fiddle with controllers. As you say , accurate stopping calcs are critical and can be a little challenging. I recall the first time I used one. My maths was fine until I decided to run my Hornby Tornado on the line. It has a massive flywheel effect, so went careering into the station buffers.
PS: I was at GETS on Saturday, but a friend of mine was there on
Sunday with his better half & says he saw you queuing with the Great Unwashed to gain entry: nuff respect to you for not jumping the queue with a "VIP" pass!
Hi Stephen - thank you as always for such considered and thoughtful comments. I really value your feedback. I love the story about the Hornby Tornado - made me laugh, though I'm sure it wasn't funny at the time! Hope the loco was ok?
GETS was a fantastic day out - mainly because it was a chance to see so many people all in one place. Great to put names to faces and just have a chat. And some amazing layouts too - I have my favourite from the show (More on that later this week!) - what was yours?
I got talking to Kevin the electrician in the queue who is an electrician - and he gave me a thumbs up for my soldering... so, phew! I've have a professional seal of approval.
@modelrailwayquest Thank you. That's very nice of you to say so.
Sorry I missed you. Another time, perhaps? My favourite layout was Redbridge Wharf. Overall, I didn't think - layout wise - it was as good as either last year or the NEC bash earlier this year. But the event seemed to be well-patronised, and there was definitely a buzz about the place. I picked up a few bargains, too!
I see Charlie triumphed once again (have I got that right?). Perhaps Hornby will let him keep the trophy, just as FIFA allowed Brazil to keep the original World Cup when they won it for the 3rd time?!
Off to practice my soldering...
A first-rate presentation on a subject that many modellers (regardless of gender) don't enjoy doing! My early experiences with that great British invention (the white metal kit) was my baptism of fire! The older Hammant and Morgan transformers (like your Safety Minor) are still amongst the best ever made. My layout is still powered by an H & M Duette. Looking forward to the next episode in the saga!😊
Thank you Gary - yes, they don't make 'em like that any more! Episode 6 - ballasting up soon.
Very clear advice. One of these days I'll manage to solder neatly...
Practise makes perfect ;-) It was quite stressful trying to solder while being "watched" by a camera. Not sure I would make a Blue Peter presenter!! :-)
Thanks Dawn a very informative tutorial. It has spired me to build a new layout to try out some of the Block Signalling accessories. It struck me that whilst I use DCC mainly, the shuttle line would allow me to add an old unused DC loco to the layout!
Perfect!! 😊
Really useful - shuttle control especially; very simply explained - thank you.
Thank you - but any chance you could do a video explaining shuttle control for DCC as well, please?
Love the way you explain things
Thank you!
I've only been doing this for 60 years ;-) Didn't know about the SS2A DC Shuttle. I think the way you presented this is gentle for the anxious and yet us dinosaurs can still learn a thing or two, so well done. I'm pretty entrenched in DC. I do have DCC in my On30 but wow it's expensive. Chuff cams, tuning so they chuff harder going up hill. Astounding sound but expensive. The motor control is really good. There is nothing wrong with DC. My O gauge is DC and so will be my N gauge. Anyway, well done.
Thank you - I'm a DC fan myself. Nothing against DCC, but just find DC more "real" if that makes sense.
@@modelrailwayquest Total sense :-) Keep up the good work. Railway modelling will teach you electrics, electronics, carpentry, engineering, measure twice cut once etc etc. It's not unreachable, the second hand market s vibrant. We need more people like you frankly to promote the hobby.
Very instructive...was watching a US guy who solders all rail joins which prevents locos stopping inadvertantly...
hmmm... sounds interesting.
@@modelrailwayquest Yes he solders all rails on the outside thus allowing the wheel flanges easier running.
That was good fun.
Admiring your safety minor, which, of course as you've likely discovered, is an autotransformer, not resistance. H&M made resistance with mattes and the autos like the safety minor and powermaster, substantially more expensive than the equivalent duette which is a resitance.
Funny you mention dc as being traditional: which, of course it is.
The earliest electric models such as planck or carette were all 2 rail intended to run on batteries.
Carlisle and finch, knapp, howard etc, all the 2" gaugers, were all intended to run on dc batteries, however the actual motors were field wound (discounting the planck which was bobbin electomagnet, (the model only appearing 3 years after siemens electric motor demonstration, so electric motors were still in development stage) so they ran on dc or ac. Ives ran resistance switching for harsh dc, and where household electricity was available, had a cutout for the better ac. Lionels early new departures and the dual presupermotor designs used series or parallel wiring switching for either ac or dc running.
Dc of course lost favour when reliable power supplies became available, ac becoming the norm with its superior running characteristics.
With this came vastly heavier construction, previously rolling stock was as lightweight as practicable to facilitate battery longevity.
Dc generally became more useful postwar with the development of decent anisotropic permanent magnets which provided reliable and simple reversing, and the motors were cheap to make.
Generally nearly all manufacturers ended up with dc motors one way or the other, the superior torque, smoother running, brush longevity, armature longevity etc of ac motors just didn't outweigh that dc motors were so much cheaper to use, and for slow speed running on a model railway ac running on dc can provide a superior experience. Try a scale 0.06 mph from a 60 year old H0 steam locomotive.
Wow - so much knowledge there, thank you! Love it..
Hi. Just for fun, here's a couple of suggestions for "film-themed" diorama layouts .... First, and almost too obvious, would be "The Railway Children". Less well known perhaps might be "The Quiet Man" (set in Ireland), and also "The Signalman" (based on a short story by Charles Dickens) ...
Ooh intriguing. I'll have a rewatch of The Quiet Man and The Signalman - a new one on me. Isn't that supposed to be very scary?
@@modelrailwayquest Indeed it is. Beautifully made film!
Hi Dawn a very entertaining video enjoyed it immensely
Really interesting video and very informative, enjoyed it
Glad you like it Simon!
Well done Dawn. Thanks for this.
Thank you!
Very comprehensive Dawn. Well done.
Thank you.
Very helpful clear explanation. Thank you.
Clear, concise, to the point, no dissimulations or flummery.
Just what `we` now expect of your comprehensive instructional video's guides.
Okay one can always comment as to improving this that or the other, but I will not be so presumptuous nor rude.
My only bit of advice (please) would be to possibly replace your soldering iron with a variable temperature version, which cost little more.
Reason being, more for tip life, in addition clean the tip before returning it to its holder and or switching it off at the end of a session.
As to your use of or term solder paste, which is totally incorrect for reference to the` flux`.
As solder paste is a paste consisting of powdered solder suspended in a flux type medium, usually of the corrosive type and not at all recommended or suitable for soldering electrical components or joints.
Take care.
Point taken. Thanks Alan.
HMDC from Hornby is a more cost effective DCC option and sits nicely in the middle of a DC and old conventional DCC system.
Yes the engines are still the same higher costs as all DCC models.
The new TT120 scale is absolutely wonderful for a new starter like me and one high quality power supply from DCC CONCEPTS works perfectly.
I know you can never show and test every option, good work anyway, keep it up. 🙂👍
Thanks for the info!
Hi Dawn, I've just watched your update on Lady killers ( wonderful old film) and I found it very interesting. You may remember I messaged you about my layout, built as it would have been in the 1950s, is coming on. The baseboards are nearly finished. Looking forward to seeing more of your project soon. Kind regards Dave. From Southend on Sea.
I do remember David - and I featured it on the Wednesday Express a couple of weeks ago. Would love to see how you get on - as it's such a great idea. What are you using for glue?
@@modelrailwayquestthanks Dawn
Hi Dawn, in your description you have a list of topics, e.g.
1:30 - DC VS DCC: advantage....
If you start this list with 00:00 as in
00:00 Introduction (or hello or welcome etc)
Then the video will be divided into UA-cam chapters.
It is also best to always use 2 digit numbers, eg 01:30 rather than 1:30, and 01:01:30 if it is 1 hour 1 minute and 30 seconds.
You can modify the description at any time to change what timestamps you have.
Thanks Jeremy - will have a look. Very helpful.
Very informative as always Dawn great video with your usual pace and professional presentation. I do think Klaus Nomi may contact you as at 15.40 in you have stolen his white gloves trademark 😅😅😅
Oh no... not again!
Good morning. Great video.
Thanks Phil!
Very good, see you tomorrow.
i think wearing eye protection is a good idea.
TY. Very helpful.
Thank you.
You got a new sub look forward to your posts
Thank you - welcome aboard!
I was always told to heat the piece of metal you are applying solder to and not to heat the solder directly with the iron. Any thoughts?
Hi there - there are several different ways to solder - - thix is the way I prefer.:-)
Very interesting Dawn, wot is the average distance of the elec current on DC track- im trying to build out door
That's a really good question but the answer is... it depends! Wire gauge is a key factor. Voltage drop is greater on thinner wire than thicker wire. Also, the speed you're running your locos. I'd say the average distance using a standard gauge wire is anything from 3 - 5 metres (9 -16 feet) but I'm sure someone here can provide greater clarity? I can also put you in touch with a garden rail expert who can tell you more if you'd like to email me your email address: modelrailwayquest@gmail.com
Hi there great video very informative where did you get the cable with multiple ends from could do with one . Thank you
Hi there Ian - if you google "DC power splitter 1 to 3 plugs" - you should find a range of options. They also come in 1 to 4, 5 plugs etc.
@@modelrailwayquest cheers thank you
Years ago you could get tubes of solder with integral flux. Are these no longer available?
I'm not sure - will check.
@@modelrailwayquest Thanks I am waiting to see if I shall have room for a proper model railway or just a coffee table 009 layout. All depends on the Lady🤔
You can still get flux cored solder but even with it I still use a separate flux although I tend to use a toothpick to apply it rather than a small brush. The flux helps the solder flow.
I think what she was using is flux core electronics grade solder, but I'm keen on using the added flux on rail track especially if it's older or has a bit of oxidation. The cleaner the better, also I've used a rotary tool with tiny wire brush, or exacto blade to scrape when I can't find the flux. LOL
Good video but always wear eye shields when soldering as it can splatter.
Hello there. Out of those 2 shuttles you've linked with the discount, is there any difference to them other than the size? Trying to figure out if I lose anything by going with the cheaper option but they appear to have the same functionality. SS2A DC Shuttle Controller and SAS2-BR DC Shuttle Controller
Ah think i've figured it out. The more expensive one has the option of stopping mid shuttle and continuing, cheaper one is just back and forth?
Glad you were able to work it out. As we discussed at Tolworth, I use the SSA2 on all my layouts and they're perfect for what I need.
You shouldn't apply solder to the soldering iron. Make sure the bit, and components, are tinned but apply the solder directly to what you are joining.
I think there are several different theories about soldering - this way works for me, as I've found putting solder on the iron helps with the heat transfer.
@@modelrailwayquest Yes, make sure the bit is wetted BUT to make the joint put iron to items, heat, apply solder. That way the flux inside the cored solder ensures you get a perfect joint. Relying on utilising a blob of solder from the bit, where the flux is long evaporated, is not good practice.
Quite correct. Solder to joint first then apply heat from the iron. Agree scrupulously clean surfaces first to ensure the solder flows and without a dry joint
I miss Grumpy's critique!
He’ll be back, don’t worry!
Surely soldering wires to the end of that track piece will prevent joining the next piece of track? Better to solder the wires to the middle.
True - for my layout though I have an end-end line of track so I find it best to solder at the end.
33:50 that sounds like an improvement that they could add to the next controller - add a reset button?