Finally, someone who made a video not subliminally bashing the camera. I have it myself and dont regret the investment, truly a goat for point and shoots and must-have in the kit. Loved this video keep up the rad content girly!!!
How is the AF for you? I’ve moved to a Yashica T4 / Olympus MJU II bc I get so many out of focus images with the T2. Too often I feel like i nailed the shot only to see a completely out of focus image when I get the scans back
I feel the same way. I have the Mju ii and I've had no problem with the Mju ii on autofocus but I get so many out of focus images with the T2 and I don't know why.
It was trial and error at first for me. I usually make sure focus point in the center of the viewfinder locks on to whatever my subject is - the Contax makes a noise and usually there is a green light as well, then I move my camera to the composition I want. I found sometimes the Contax won't do either of those things (make the noise for pulling focus or show a green light); haven't quite figured out why. But I play with the aperture and the infinity dial depending on where my subject is; but it definitely still misses focus soemtimes.
So I totally get that you’re still fairly new with film and such, but just wanted to give you a heads up on something you mentioned in your video. Pushing/pulling film with the dial on the t2 doesn’t work in the same way a digital cameras exposure compensation dial does. +1/+2/etc would be tricking your camera into thinking it has a 1 or 2 stop higher film stock in it, so Portra 800 with +1 would be telling your t2 that you have 1600 film, which would change your settings to DARKEN the image to account for the higher “iso” film. So when you shoot at +1 you are actually underexposing your image. Then the pushing/pulling terms don’t come in until the developing stage of film where if you tell the lab you pushed +1 stop, they would develop the film longer which would brighten the image a stop to account for the 1 stop underexposed image taken, which would give you a final image that is properly exposed at “0”. So, if you want to overexpose your image, like overexposing portra 800 +1 stop, you would actually need to change the dial on the t2 to -1 so that it thinks it has 400speed film so the camera will brighten the overall image to compensate, and then tell the lab to develop at regular speed (800) and not to push or pull it so that way the actual final image will be overexposed. Just FYI I know it’s kinda confusing and totally backwards to what you would be used to with digital cameras 🙂 hope this helps if you were trying to overexpose your portra and it was coming out properly or underexposed instead 🙂
@@CybertigerVision yep you’re right, technically speaking most film cameras, especially fully manual ones, work in the opposite way you would think or how digital cameras work as far as pushing and pulling/overexposing etc… so all of my other film cameras work in the way I mentioned, but I guess Contax wanted to make it easy for people to understand and made it work like a digital camera would… didn’t realize this till after I made this comment… so apologies for the confusion… however for anyone reading this in general, film pushing and pulling works in the opposite way a digital camera would with exposure compensation cause you have to basically trick your camera into thinking you have higher iso film in order to darken the image… so a lot of film camera work in a way of using +1 or +2 to bump up the iso stops in order to darken not brighten Except the Contax t2 and maybe a few others apparently 😂
@@Brentleschauff Find one film camera for which +1 on the exposure compensation dial does not result into OVEREXPOSING by one stop. Contax, Nikon, Olympus, all do this. So I don't know what film camera you are talking about...
@@CybertigerVision I’m talking about how film cameras and overexposing an image works in general… 200 iso film +1 stop equals 400 iso film… which would result in a darker image over the 200 iso film not a brighter one… so with manual film cameras and not point and shoots, and you “add a stop” or +1 on the iso or really any setting it’s going to darken it… for example my Nikon f2 has a little helper on the iso dial and the +1 on the iso dial is giving you a higher ISO value which will result in a darker image… now if you then develop the film at +1 as well that is considered pushing the film which is completely different than overexposing film…
Finally, someone who made a video not subliminally bashing the camera. I have it myself and dont regret the investment, truly a goat for point and shoots and must-have in the kit. Loved this video keep up the rad content girly!!!
Your T2 photos are always so good 🙌🏻
Thank you so much!!
absolutely love it!
Thank you!!
Excellent review
Thank you for the feedback! Your images are stunning!!!
Of course, I hope it was helpful! Thanks for watching 💕
How is the AF for you? I’ve moved to a Yashica T4 / Olympus MJU II bc I get so many out of focus images with the T2. Too often I feel like i nailed the shot only to see a completely out of focus image when I get the scans back
I feel the same way. I have the Mju ii and I've had no problem with the Mju ii on autofocus but I get so many out of focus images with the T2 and I don't know why.
It was trial and error at first for me. I usually make sure focus point in the center of the viewfinder locks on to whatever my subject is - the Contax makes a noise and usually there is a green light as well, then I move my camera to the composition I want. I found sometimes the Contax won't do either of those things (make the noise for pulling focus or show a green light); haven't quite figured out why. But I play with the aperture and the infinity dial depending on where my subject is; but it definitely still misses focus soemtimes.
Hannah! If you're ever in Denver, lets make some UA-cam videos!!
So I totally get that you’re still fairly new with film and such, but just wanted to give you a heads up on something you mentioned in your video. Pushing/pulling film with the dial on the t2 doesn’t work in the same way a digital cameras exposure compensation dial does. +1/+2/etc would be tricking your camera into thinking it has a 1 or 2 stop higher film stock in it, so Portra 800 with +1 would be telling your t2 that you have 1600 film, which would change your settings to DARKEN the image to account for the higher “iso” film. So when you shoot at +1 you are actually underexposing your image. Then the pushing/pulling terms don’t come in until the developing stage of film where if you tell the lab you pushed +1 stop, they would develop the film longer which would brighten the image a stop to account for the 1 stop underexposed image taken, which would give you a final image that is properly exposed at “0”.
So, if you want to overexpose your image, like overexposing portra 800 +1 stop, you would actually need to change the dial on the t2 to -1 so that it thinks it has 400speed film so the camera will brighten the overall image to compensate, and then tell the lab to develop at regular speed (800) and not to push or pull it so that way the actual final image will be overexposed.
Just FYI I know it’s kinda confusing and totally backwards to what you would be used to with digital cameras 🙂 hope this helps if you were trying to overexpose your portra and it was coming out properly or underexposed instead 🙂
Wrong! You are the one who got it backwards. If you want to overexpose by one stop you set the exposure compensation dial on the Contax T2 at +1.
@@CybertigerVision yep you’re right, technically speaking most film cameras, especially fully manual ones, work in the opposite way you would think or how digital cameras work as far as pushing and pulling/overexposing etc… so all of my other film cameras work in the way I mentioned, but I guess Contax wanted to make it easy for people to understand and made it work like a digital camera would… didn’t realize this till after I made this comment… so apologies for the confusion… however for anyone reading this in general, film pushing and pulling works in the opposite way a digital camera would with exposure compensation cause you have to basically trick your camera into thinking you have higher iso film in order to darken the image… so a lot of film camera work in a way of using +1 or +2 to bump up the iso stops in order to darken not brighten
Except the Contax t2 and maybe a few others apparently 😂
@@Brentleschauff Find one film camera for which +1 on the exposure compensation dial does not result into OVEREXPOSING by one stop. Contax, Nikon, Olympus, all do this. So I don't know what film camera you are talking about...
@@CybertigerVision I’m talking about how film cameras and overexposing an image works in general… 200 iso film +1 stop equals 400 iso film… which would result in a darker image over the 200 iso film not a brighter one… so with manual film cameras and not point and shoots, and you “add a stop” or +1 on the iso or really any setting it’s going to darken it… for example my Nikon f2 has a little helper on the iso dial and the +1 on the iso dial is giving you a higher ISO value which will result in a darker image… now if you then develop the film at +1 as well that is considered pushing the film which is completely different than overexposing film…
Your photos are stunning
Thank you 🤍🤍🤍
Ok well now I need one! 😅
Everyone needs one imo 😆
wahoo we finally got the kylie jenner t2 review
lol
@@hannahrheaume im sorry, that was unneccessary, the title just made me laugh. You have great work with all mediums!
Oooh camcorder video when?! 😃🙌
Sooooon!! I need some more time to shoot with it. It’s been fun so far though!
@@hannahrheaume what type of camcorder did you get?
@ I got the Sony trv75! Have loved it so far