Side note: thoroughly iron all creases out of your canvas before stretching. My experience had been that gesso/primer will not smooth them out and large wrinkles ruin the surface. Also, If some slight looseness occurs after stretching, you can lightly brush clean water on the back of the canvas and it will tighten again as the fibers contract while drying.
I found this video really informative. I stretched some canvases (big ones: 4'x8'!) for the first time yesterday. I especially found your demonstration of how to finish the corners very helpful and I was able to get good results following what you did here. And you're right, using a coarser canvas does leave the fingers a little raw if you don't use canvas pliers. Thanks again for a great video :)
Thank you so much for your informative video! Looking forward to trying to stretch my own large canvases soon! Great demonstration to give me confidence!
If you're serious about stretching a canvas of this size, watch more lessons first or get help from a professional. Reasons: 1. Unless you plan to use canvas stretching keys in the corners, glue them into place as well. 2. The stretcher definitely needs a vertical cross brace as well as the two horizontal ones or it will bow vertically for sure. 3. Notice the space between the cross bar and the frame. This should not be visible and is probably evidence that the wood frame is naturally bowed out (a normal result of the wood drying but still needs correction). Use a level and pull into place to straighten the frame before nailing. 4. The actual canvas should be ironed or steamed before stretching. Those creases will be awfully hard to remove after the canvas has been stretched. Though, do not place an iron directly on the canvas surface. A simple sheet between the canvas and iron can serve as protection. 5. When stapling the canvas, always work in the round. Do not complete one corner at a time as she did. If you place a staple on one side, you will next staple directly across to ensure you have an even stretch. 6. USE CANVAS PLIERS. A canvas of that size, regardless of material, will surely not be taut enough if only using your own strength to pull. You'll know you have a decent stretch if when done you flick the canvas, and it sounds like a deep drum. Notice at the end of the video when she taps the canvas, it looks and sounds loose. 7. When finishing the corners, ensure the folds match. Her's are all on different sides, a messy look. 8. This one made me cringe. DO NOT cut your canvas right up to the staples. For One, it is entirely unnecessary. This will be up against a wall and a bit of excess will not be seen. Two, a half inch to an inch is proper to ensure your canvas wont rip through the staples or create unsightly scalloping (ripples near the front edges of the canvas). 9. Once the canvas has been properly stretched, you may need to apply a hot sponge or even a steamer to the canvas to remove any remains of creasing, but don't be too finicky. Applying the layers of gesso will further tighten the canvas and remove creases. With that said, I'm not trying to persuade you to believe only one right way exists to stretch a canvas, but these general rules apply most of the time. I hope this information is helpful to beginner canvas stretchers!
Also, make sure you drill a small hole (as a pilot) hole before driving any nails in; otherwise you will likely split the wood. I would actually suggest adding metal corner and "t" shaped braces as well.
I would like to suggest some changes here. First, get a much much bigger square for testing the corners for 90 degrees, and re test for square on every corner after any hammering as they get out of square very easily. And then put some kind of temporary staples or corners attached at the corners to keep it from moving out of square while you stretch the fabric, and these could stay in until need to remove. Then how you stretch the fabric depends a lot on what your ground process will be, as they vary a lot on how much they tighten the fabric. Some, like applying PVA first as a size, may actually loosen the fabric which is not a good thing, so in that case you want to stretch it very tight and would require a much more careful stretching process from side to side. I would say the same though for most other grounds unless you are using Rabbit Skin Glue as that is the only process that really tightens the linen significantly before applying a ground. Bottom line, if you are going to the expense and trouble of stretching linen on a huge canvas, get lots of advice before attempting this! And start smaller.
agree. although i was looking for the corner part which i had forgotten since buying pre-mades for a while- that part was perfect. but yeh i was told to use screws and glue not nails. and go round each side equally in one direction from the centre, but turning to the next side for every staple.
Thanks Heather. Having been a carpenter, a framing square would work better than the small plastic square you used. But the best way to square a canvas frame or a wall of a house, is to use your tape measure and take diagonal cross measurements. When both measurements are the same, you are square!
@@meravkleinmann3930 Right. As Merav noted, with such a large span you any errors will really be magnified, so measuring on the diagonal and/or using a longer square is essential.
Why do people NOT understand that you cannot glue or screw together the stretcher pieces? Over time the canvas needs to be stretched out to prevent sagging or flapping around like sails on a ship and securing the wood as described will not suffice. Yes - as mentioned, tightening the canvas by wetting the surface behind will work to a degree but cannot be used every time. Use the wooden wedges if they are supplied and check first if the stretcher manufacturers have catered for the use of them. Many of them just mill a 45 degree slot in the ends as they have not the slightest idea what they're for. I've designed special tensioning devices for large canvases which can be made and fitted afterwards.
I wouldn't use wood glue for the cross braces, just screws. If you need to restretch your canvas at some point, loosen the screws a bit, tap your corner keys to tighten, and retighten the crossbraces. You don't want the cross braces stuck at their ends.
Square , is a square lol not a triangle.and a rubber mallet but We got the idea.My suggestion is to not cut the excess close to the stiches, because sooner or later you may need to re stretch the canvas especially if you use cotton.so leave an extra covering the wood is ideal.
Jerry's sells great supplies but this is not how you stretch a canvas. Splitting support bars with the nail renders them useless, non-beveled edges means you'll get inner-frame marks showing through when you paint (it'll create a ledge that makes lines), you need to do symmetrical, even stapling all around L-R, Top-Bottom and don't stretch sideways, yes you must staple corners - it's essential (ask any museum or gallery curator). Height never has anything to do with it anyway. Better out there.
Great job, thanks. I just am confused what the front looks like closer -- and the part where you banged the corners together, for example.Probably when I buy the wood at a Hobby Lobby, or whatever, it will be obvious. Great job, thanks!
hey thanks for this video. i use americano fabric for canvas and i use regular matte white paint to prime. after stretvhing though n priming...afew days later my canvas starts to get little bubbbles underneath the frame where the canvas stretches over to the back nd meets the staples. cant figure out why. usually happens with my big cavases. ni mayter hw tight i stretch
Now someone has to go back with a set of good canvas pliers and get it tight as a drum. Primer does not tighten your canvas. When it's wet you think you have an awesome drum tight canvas and then it dries and you have what you had. There isn't a substitute for using pliers and the shitty ones art stores sell don't count. God I wish it was as easy as this makes it look.
Side note: thoroughly iron all creases out of your canvas before stretching. My experience had been that gesso/primer will not smooth them out and large wrinkles ruin the surface. Also, If some slight looseness occurs after stretching, you can lightly brush clean water on the back of the canvas and it will tighten again as the fibers contract while drying.
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I found this video really informative. I stretched some canvases (big ones: 4'x8'!) for the first time yesterday. I especially found your demonstration of how to finish the corners very helpful and I was able to get good results following what you did here. And you're right, using a coarser canvas does leave the fingers a little raw if you don't use canvas pliers. Thanks again for a great video :)
Thank you Heather!!! I hope all is well; you, your family, and your amazing art works!
Thanks Heather, wonderful and helpful video. Finally decided to start making some 'big' paintings. Hope you're well 5 1/2 years later.
I am in LOVE! with stretching canvas off course!!
Thank you so much for your informative video! Looking forward to trying to stretch my own large canvases soon! Great demonstration to give me confidence!
Nice job.That’s a massive frame.
If you're serious about stretching a canvas of this size, watch more lessons first or get help from a professional.
Reasons:
1. Unless you plan to use canvas stretching keys in the corners, glue them into place as well.
2. The stretcher definitely needs a vertical cross brace as well as the two horizontal ones or it will bow vertically for sure.
3. Notice the space between the cross bar and the frame. This should not be visible and is probably evidence that the wood frame is naturally bowed out (a normal result of the wood drying but still needs correction). Use a level and pull into place to straighten the frame before nailing.
4. The actual canvas should be ironed or steamed before stretching. Those creases will be awfully hard to remove after the canvas has been stretched. Though, do not place an iron directly on the canvas surface. A simple sheet between the canvas and iron can serve as protection.
5. When stapling the canvas, always work in the round. Do not complete one corner at a time as she did. If you place a staple on one side, you will next staple directly across to ensure you have an even stretch.
6. USE CANVAS PLIERS. A canvas of that size, regardless of material, will surely not be taut enough if only using your own strength to pull. You'll know you have a decent stretch if when done you flick the canvas, and it sounds like a deep drum. Notice at the end of the video when she taps the canvas, it looks and sounds loose.
7. When finishing the corners, ensure the folds match. Her's are all on different sides, a messy look.
8. This one made me cringe. DO NOT cut your canvas right up to the staples. For One, it is entirely unnecessary. This will be up against a wall and a bit of excess will not be seen. Two, a half inch to an inch is proper to ensure your canvas wont rip through the staples or create unsightly scalloping (ripples near the front edges of the canvas).
9. Once the canvas has been properly stretched, you may need to apply a hot sponge or even a steamer to the canvas to remove any remains of creasing, but don't be too finicky. Applying the layers of gesso will further tighten the canvas and remove creases.
With that said, I'm not trying to persuade you to believe only one right way exists to stretch a canvas, but these general rules apply most of the time. I hope this information is helpful to beginner canvas stretchers!
Also, make sure you drill a small hole (as a pilot) hole before driving any nails in; otherwise you will likely split the wood. I would actually suggest adding metal corner and "t" shaped braces as well.
Wow. Thank you for adding this. So helpful!
I would like to suggest some changes here. First, get a much much bigger square for testing the corners for 90 degrees, and re test for square on every corner after any hammering as they get out of square very easily. And then put some kind of temporary staples or corners attached at the corners to keep it from moving out of square while you stretch the fabric, and these could stay in until need to remove. Then how you stretch the fabric depends a lot on what your ground process will be, as they vary a lot on how much they tighten the fabric. Some, like applying PVA first as a size, may actually loosen the fabric which is not a good thing, so in that case you want to stretch it very tight and would require a much more careful stretching process from side to side. I would say the same though for most other grounds unless you are using Rabbit Skin Glue as that is the only process that really tightens the linen significantly before applying a ground.
Bottom line, if you are going to the expense and trouble of stretching linen on a huge canvas, get lots of advice before attempting this! And start smaller.
agree. although i was looking for the corner part which i had forgotten since buying pre-mades for a while- that part was perfect. but yeh i was told to use screws and glue not nails. and go round each side equally in one direction from the centre, but turning to the next side for every staple.
Thanks Heather. Having been a carpenter, a framing square would work better than the small plastic square you used. But the best way to square a canvas frame or a wall of a house, is to use your tape measure and take diagonal cross measurements. When both measurements are the same, you are square!
I totally agree...you need to measure the Diagonals!
Do you mean to measure the diagonal across each corner until they all match up?
Yes, like top left to bottom right and top right to bottom left
@@meravkleinmann3930 Right. As Merav noted, with such a large span you any errors will really be magnified, so measuring on the diagonal and/or using a longer square is essential.
Why do people NOT understand that you cannot glue or screw together the stretcher pieces?
Over time the canvas needs to be stretched out to prevent sagging or flapping around like sails on a ship and securing the wood as described will not suffice. Yes - as mentioned, tightening the canvas by wetting the surface behind will work to a degree but cannot be used every time.
Use the wooden wedges if they are supplied and check first if the stretcher manufacturers have catered for the use of them. Many of them just mill a 45 degree slot in the ends as they have not the slightest idea what they're for.
I've designed special tensioning devices for large canvases which can be made and fitted afterwards.
This was super helpful! I was wondering where did you get your stretcher bars from, I have a canvas that is 90x30?
You are pretty good with those corners! Thanks!
I wouldn't use wood glue for the cross braces, just screws. If you need to restretch your canvas at some point, loosen the screws a bit, tap your corner keys to tighten, and retighten the crossbraces. You don't want the cross braces stuck at their ends.
Perfect demonstration. Thank you!
Square , is a square lol not a triangle.and a rubber mallet but We got the idea.My suggestion is to not cut the excess close to the stiches, because sooner or later you may need to re stretch the canvas especially if you use cotton.so leave an extra covering the wood is ideal.
Thank you, Heather! Great job!
Jerry's sells great supplies but this is not how you stretch a canvas. Splitting support bars with the nail renders them useless, non-beveled edges means you'll get inner-frame marks showing through when you paint (it'll create a ledge that makes lines), you need to do symmetrical, even stapling all around L-R, Top-Bottom and don't stretch sideways, yes you must staple corners - it's essential (ask any museum or gallery curator). Height never has anything to do with it anyway. Better out there.
Thank you Heather. Will this technique work on round canvases?
Great job, thanks. I just am confused what the front looks like closer -- and the part where you banged the corners together, for example.Probably when I buy the wood at a Hobby Lobby, or whatever, it will be obvious. Great job, thanks!
Great explanation .thanks
hey thanks for this video. i use americano fabric for canvas and i use regular matte white paint to prime. after stretvhing though n priming...afew days later my canvas starts to get little bubbbles underneath the frame where the canvas stretches over to the back nd meets the staples. cant figure out why. usually happens with my big cavases. ni mayter hw tight i stretch
@TheAbbott117 I would assume it's so viewers have a height reference on the stretcher bars.
so you don't have to get it that tight when you get big ?(judging from you staple at each side?)
Awesome.
I could watch her stretch canvas all day; doesn't matter to me she's doing it wrong.
Thanks 5ft 3 heather!
Hi may I have the dimensions for this canvas please
how much did those timber bars cost you?
where did you buy such large braces?
good demo
I was told you should never staple the corners
So much negativity in the comment section. I thought this video was awesome.
probably so #1 you can see that short people can stretch large canvas, and #2 to get a better idea of how large the canvas is
can you stretch another canvas on top of that one for painting? Anyone try this?
thanks
Heathers a BABE!!
She looks Comfortable....very comfortable
@@kennethdandurand34725 years to 3 months to now. She's desperately trying to look young. Failing though I'm afraid
the point is the canvas being larger than someone they are more likely to be at a disadvantage
9:31 massive long wrinkle off center. A terrible job.
@MyxoLara you're smart.. no sarcasm
after listening to this soundtrack i never want to make a painting again.
Hahahhaa
Same
@MyxoLara No, not at all, I meant what I said
good
its easy once you get it.
Dangerous nice.
Now someone has to go back with a set of good canvas pliers and get it tight as a drum. Primer does not tighten your canvas. When it's wet you think you have an awesome drum tight canvas and then it dries and you have what you had. There isn't a substitute for using pliers and the shitty ones art stores sell don't count. God I wish it was as easy as this makes it look.
It’s covered in wrinkles !!!
@ilikeyoutub07 I hope I didn't come across as jerkish. Text can be frustrating that way.
:(
Lol, should I live in the first floor of an apartment if I want to do this?
it can be an impossible japonese puzzle to get the painting downstairs
She's SMOKIN'! Doesn't know the first thing about stretching canvas... but who cares? I watched the whole thing all the way to the end.
Why wouldn't she?
*percieved disadvantage...to show there isn't one
That's tight!
3:27 bad gap
sloppy corners
OMG, she doesn't know anything about stretching canvases. Portrait linen is super expensive and she treats it like it's toilet paper. The humanity!
Informative, but holy fuck who told you it was ok to play that terrible music?
This video has so much wrong information in it that I don't even know where to begin.
And so you never began
That's a strange way to make a sandwich.
HORRIBLE, DO NOT DO THIS. SLOPPY
Thanks for sharing