Good video. One minor point, when free play increases, it usually means the pressure plate/clutch cover has lost some spring temper and partially collapsed, losing effective disengagement stroke. Causes are overloading, heating, hole shots. Result; hard to shift,dragging clutch, grinding on shifts. When a healthy clutch normally wears over time, the free play decreases to zero, eventually leading to slipping, which in turn leads to overheating and disc glazing. You would adjust in opposite direction to get about 1" of free play. I have "healed" pretty crappy clutches by getting the free play right as shown in this video, and driving easy
video is perfect! t.y. my son was gifted a 71 c-10. hes now 16 and he will be able to do this. i was working on my own car at the same age, a 66 dodge dart 3 on the tree, and told him these older cars are so easy to work on, no brains in them to hassle lol only the person working on them! thank you!
Great video. I have a question though. I bought a Frankenstein of a truck. It's a '73 Chevy K20 truck with a homemade dumptruck box. It has a '71 4 speed transmission (it was an automatic). The inspection cover you mentioned to check the clutch thickness. What size are the bolts for that cover? The previous owners didn't put one on, or left it off. The holes are packed full of crap. I bought a new cover, but it didn't come with bolts. What size are they?
From hear it looks like your oil filter mybe leaking or needs to tightened, grease the bell crank too. Love the old trucks. Thanks for the info on the last reply, I had no internet for 10 years & tv its great for odering parts and other stuff. Thanks for the vid
Mrs. Adriann hey, thanks for watching. I think it would be easy to find one online on ebay or something. I cant say for sure , never had to buy one. good luck
good eye! lol yeah i missed some spots when i painted the frame becuase i had the frame practically lying on the ground and couldn't reach those spots with the sandblaster or wire wheel. when it warms up ill climb under there with a wire wheel and knock the rust off, then take a good quality rattle can to it
If you are tightening up the clutch to get rid of play, you move the threaded rod towards the engine, which would be making the length on the opposite end towards the rear of the truck shorter
I had old hedman hedders on it. I'm not even sure what the part number was . I bought them well used off eBay for like 20 bucks. The truck has a completely different engine and trans now. 5.3 with th400
Hey, i swapped a manual trans into my auto cab and cant figure out how the clutch rod goes through the firewall and attaches to the clutch pedal.. do you happen to have picture of how it all connects?
Sorry for the late reply. I may have a picture somewhere. It goes through a big hole with a gromit . give me your email and i'll send a picture if i ca find one
How come when I adjust my clutch to around one inch of play, when I press the clutch in all the way, the diaphragm springs click because the throwout bearing is going to far? How do I stop this from happening?
It's all good....I'll just fabricate something to put the spring on or run it to the frame. seems like there's a whole lot of confusion on where this return spring goes. Used to have a camaro with the same set up, but that was over 20 years ago.
Good video. One minor point, when free play increases, it usually means the pressure plate/clutch cover has lost some spring temper and partially collapsed, losing effective disengagement stroke. Causes are overloading, heating, hole shots. Result; hard to shift,dragging clutch, grinding on shifts. When a healthy clutch normally wears over time, the free play decreases to zero, eventually leading to slipping, which in turn leads to overheating and disc glazing. You would adjust in opposite direction to get about 1" of free play. I have "healed" pretty crappy clutches by getting the free play right as shown in this video, and driving easy
video is perfect! t.y. my son was gifted a 71 c-10. hes now 16 and he will be able to do this. i was working on my own car at the same age, a 66 dodge dart 3 on the tree, and told him these older cars are so easy to work on, no brains in them to hassle lol only the person working on them! thank you!
+Shelli Logan No problem, thanks for watching
These types of video help folks for a long time, Good of you to take the time to share it.
It'll get a lot of views over time... Cheers
***** Thanks !
I can’t even explain how helpful this was
Well glad I could help
Nice little weather tease at the end there...lol. This winter can go frig off any day now.
Redgonetogray I know right
Thanks for the video, got the same truck. I only wish there was better lighting. Keep making videos.
Thanks, these were the pioneer days of my UA-cam videos. I've gotten a much better camera since then
@@NoPaintGarage when I go to adjust there’s just no room. The exhaust is covering it is that normal. I have a 67 c10
@@bricks8979 yeah the exhaust can be in the way sometimes
Thanks for taking the time to make this video!
Glad you found it useful. It's an old one. Not the best quality
Great vid Dean,
Like the service manual but in real time...
Way to go brother !
lakesideranch Thanks!
Awesome dude thanks I'll do this before I take my 68 c30 in Monday for new clutch
👍
To me this video is priceless! Or... actually i'ts very easy to set a price, because i was going to the workshop to get it fixed..
Thanks. Glad I could help
Great tip man , Should help out some folks that don't know how to !!
Thanks!
Properly adjusted clutch will last for years
Good job
Rusty Glovebox Thanks
Great video. I have a question though. I bought a Frankenstein of a truck. It's a '73 Chevy K20 truck with a homemade dumptruck box. It has a '71 4 speed transmission (it was an automatic). The inspection cover you mentioned to check the clutch thickness. What size are the bolts for that cover? The previous owners didn't put one on, or left it off. The holes are packed full of crap. I bought a new cover, but it didn't come with bolts. What size are they?
Jayhere hey thanks for watching. The bolts have a 7/16 head. The thread size is 1/4 x 20 and they need to bee about half an inch long
You make a good instructor, You should do more,
i dont know about that, but i try, thanks
I really hope this is similar on 64-74 ford F350's. one of them has MORE THAN NEEDED PLAY like your chevy.
Should be similar
1 inch is the ticket great vid Dean.
scottsinfl Thanks
From hear it looks like your oil filter mybe leaking or needs to tightened, grease the bell crank too. Love the old trucks. Thanks for the info on the last reply, I had no internet for 10 years & tv its great for odering parts and other stuff. Thanks for the vid
Actually it needs to be replaced lol. oil change is way overdue. that is next
Nice show and tell Dean..
ZIGgassedUP Thanks!
the how to video is what got me on u-tube nice work
busman54
Dan Love Thank you
Great vid! I have a 70 chevelle and I think I have way too much free play. I thought more was ok. Im gonna adjust it before I get it out this spring.
+billy greenhorn Thanks for watching! can't wait for spring to come so i can take the '72 back out!
Thanks , also can you tell me what headers fit your truck ? I have a 68k20 manual
Some random eBay headers that were used. Not sure what they came off of . Took a lot of bashing to make them fit
You did sir you did
Thanks for the tip Dean .Take care bud .
Mordoor 53 Thanks!
Great video, watched then knocked it out in 5 min
Thanks! Glad i could help
Always good videos Dean.
EdOfTheNorth Thanks!
Hey I hope you're still around. Do you know where we can find a clutch cable for a 1989 Chevy C20 truck?
Mrs. Adriann hey, thanks for watching. I think it would be easy to find one online on ebay or something. I cant say for sure , never had to buy one. good luck
Thanks so much for responding!
I think you saved my ass thanks man
Glad i was able to help!
You Helped me out a lot thank you
cool. I wish my clutch was adjustable. i can believe that part in the foreground is not painted. looks like it could use some buffing and black paint
good eye! lol yeah i missed some spots when i painted the frame becuase i had the frame practically lying on the ground and couldn't reach those spots with the sandblaster or wire wheel. when it warms up ill climb under there with a wire wheel and knock the rust off, then take a good quality rattle can to it
Good tip Dean.
The Shade Tree Fix-it Man Thanks George
Good how to video.
strokedfirebirdable Thanks
I have a 79 K25 with a SM465 4 speed. Is that adjusted the same way?
Yes, I believe so
@@NoPaintGarage i have a 63 c20 hoping this is similar as 99% of pedal movement is free play lol
@@sorrygunsathome if it's that bad your clutch might be shot. Definitely check the Linkage .
I replaced my clutch shortly after I made this video. And then a year later I ls swapped it and put a th400 in it. Lol
@@NoPaintGarage just looked into it i and i have a hydraulic clutch so we shall see
Perfect how to video. Thanks.
When you are adjusting. are you making it so the distance between the nut and clutch fork is longer or do you make it shorter between the two?
If you are tightening up the clutch to get rid of play, you move the threaded rod towards the engine, which would be making the length on the opposite end towards the rear of the truck shorter
Length of the threaded rod
Awesome thanks and that should reduce clutch slip correct?
@@shawnconnor8163 it might. Worth a shot
Thanks Dean.
MrMach12004 Thanks
What type of headers are you running for the clutch linkage?
I had old hedman hedders on it. I'm not even sure what the part number was . I bought them well used off eBay for like 20 bucks. The truck has a completely different engine and trans now. 5.3 with th400
Hey, i swapped a manual trans into my auto cab and cant figure out how the clutch rod goes through the firewall and attaches to the clutch pedal.. do you happen to have picture of how it all connects?
Sorry for the late reply. I may have a picture somewhere. It goes through a big hole with a gromit . give me your email and i'll send a picture if i ca find one
Nice work Dean.
RamblinAround Thank you
Cool
wtbm123 Thanks
How come when I adjust my clutch to around one inch of play, when I press the clutch in all the way, the diaphragm springs click because the throwout bearing is going to far? How do I stop this from happening?
My setup is a 1970 camaro, m20 trans with a McLeod clutch and 383 striker
Hmm I'm not familiar with the clutch linkage on that car
Can't see shit! A drop light would help.
doublej118jc this is an old vid. could have been a lot better.
Try a light next time.
need to know where the spring goes....
you never put your light under the truck to give us a better look at adjusting the linkage. ..
Sorry about that. this is one of my older vids and kinda sucks.
It's all good....I'll just fabricate something to put the spring on or run it to the frame. seems like there's a whole lot of confusion on where this return spring goes. Used to have a camaro with the same set up, but that was over 20 years ago.
Where do the felt washers go on z bar linkage
I'm not sure. It's been a while since I had that engine trans setup, sorry
Se mira oscuro el vídeo
T=up
FixinThatUp Thanks!
Lighting
My videos weren't so good back then
Can't see it
My videos weren't so good back then
cant see much once you go under the truck.
This video sucks, it's from like 10 years ago.
You need better lighting 😃
This was years ago. I had a terrible camera
2 inches?? shit my clutch pedal goes an inch past the brake pedal before the clutch catches
No Sh*t. something aint right then. first thing i would check is your linkage . could be messed up
Truck is just a begging for custom pedals.....
cutworm59 yeah, i should make some
Cant see a damn thing
I can't either, this video sucks
good video??? I cant see anything its terrible
Yeah it really isn't that great. Pretty crappy camera and this was several years ago
Lighting sucks
Yes it does