I used to work for a small consulting company specializing in geotechnical, environmental and construction materials. Part of the job is asphalt, concrete and soil (including compaction) testing. One of the bridge-interchange projects we were contracted uses a lot of Lego-like retaining walls. Each block are attached to wire (rebars) panels which are similar to cattle panels but more dense and has rustproofing. The panels are laid out on the ground then covered with aggregates up to a certain level and compacted. Once the desired compaction is achieved, the next layer of wire panels are laid out. The process repeats like a multi-layer Lasagna where each level of retaining wall is anchored upon. Also, wick drains were installed (down to the bedrock) on the ground in and around the project site to facilitate ground compaction. Please look up the UA-cam video "Behind the Project: 23 Avenue Interchange" for insight on the project. Thank you.
DIY masterpiece! The video on using Concrete Lego Blocks for a retaining wall is a must-watch. It's a creative and effective way to elevate your outdoor space.
We just built one of these to hold back a hill that was in the way of building a woodshop. We now have two walls and will be building another next year. The blocks are a bit different - ours weigh 2,400 lbs. each, have a decorative face, and have a different top, but apparently these massive blocks are catching on all over the place 😊 Yours is a much taller wall than ours and required a lot more work, but the result is the same - reclaimed space!
Firstly as an engineer, I saw the first fault in your foundation. Concrete was poured onto the reinforcing mesh, that although was supported in a few places by sitting on the small bricks was mainly lying on the ground or in the mud. By not having the mesh either in the middle of the slab or close to it, the base slab has reduced strength. Secondly, there isn't anything tying the blocks to the foundation slab apart from gravity. Once you get moist soil behind a retaining wall, it has enormous pressure and will push the base outwards. Thirdly, once a retaining wall is over 1m high, there should be ties which are connected to the blocks and go back into the retained material the same height as the wall will end up being. As your wall is about 2.4m high, the ties, which usually consist of 2 lengths of 16mm rebar seperated by about 300mm should be attached securely to each block and laid horizontally into the retained area and then compacted fill put on top of them and repeated with each layer. Did you get this signed off by a structural engineer?
Yes, signed off. Also, I agree with you about the sideways force, that is why there is a raised (and tied) concrete edge to the base that prevents this.
Seems strange to think that without some kind of piles driven that the wall will sink at some point. Considering it is right next to a water source. Was any geotechnical survey done on this before the wall was planned?
I suppose you had great luck that the house was not damaged when you removed the earth in front. Usually you have to secure the earth underneath the house by ramming in some piles before you dig the earth in front away.
They do, but I didn't realise when I placed the order. Fortunately, all of the top is being finished with Yorkshire stone slabs that will overhang the stone facing.
Considering using these blocks to form a retaining wall to hold up the side of a new concrete farm yard. Thanks for the tip re the flat top block, the supplier I've spoken with didn't mention those and your quoted prices appear much better! Cheers.
Had anyone used these to build a house? If they were tied together they would effectively become a solid wall with no risk of collapse from an earthquake.
Thanks for the nod, Your wall vid is the only UK one I have found and am still thinking this is the best option for a wall that I have. 70 feet long and 8 feet high effectively making a 16 feet or so wide, elevated platform for off road parking. Still a long way to go my end but curious as to any movement, deterioration of problems following completion. A follow up vid would be great. TIA
Excellent video great fast and definitely way to go. . I am contractor my self and this video is educational and opens new ides. You did Excellent job of recording total process step by step.Only thing that i wold likely do before backfill of soil to put some waterproof on inside. Only reason for this is if you install stone on the front may show moisture spots after couple years. I see you had drainage pipe very important. GOOD JOB.
Aww, thanks for that Lotus. We did lay stone on the front but with the 4" gap like on a house so hopefully no moisture spots. We are still letting the soil settle at the moment before finishing laying slabs on the terraces but if you want updates pics, let me know cloughs_stuff@btinternet.com 😁👍
Would love to see some more of the finished wall and the foundation detail as the slab seemed quite shallow. Did you back fill with stone and a perforated drain behind too or is the idea that the water will seep though in any case as the blocks aren’t bonded together??
Interesting. Personally I'm a little nervous that that pad didn't have footings of its own to lock into the earth or that the pad didn't have any substantial rebar in it. It had a mesh but that's not reinforcement enough in my opinion. There would have been a 3-ft deep footer on the backside as well as rebar grid at one foot increments throughout. Nice wall though.
@@CloughReviews Thanks for the reply! It would be really fast and solid though. You could use an inner wall with insulation between and clad it with green sheets outside so it looks like a barn.
Our "mafia blocks" in the northeast of the US seem to be simpler than your frankly exciting "lego" style cmu's. Here they are I believe 2' x 2' x 4' with a triangular-section female longitudinal keyway on the bottom a corresponding male key on the top. A loop of #4 or#5 rebar poking out of the top of the block provides a lifting point. These are typically made from excess or washout concrete at a batch plant where the concrete delivery trucks get their loads.
If it had been supporting anything other than infill, I agree, piling would have been a option to look at. We did a soil survey when building the house and it's all shale that doesn't compress and leans back into the hillside
When you backfill up against the retaining wall... Whats to stop the soil from pushing the wall out? Isn't there usually horizontal strapping anchors that are tied into the wall that are buried in the backfill to stop the retaining wall from buckling outwards over time?
I get the type of thing you are describing, not something that was suggested by the manufacturers on this build though. At 1 Ton per block, the downward force is enough and the bottom section is anchored to stop any sliding
@@CloughReviews waterlogged soil would weigh about 2.5 tonnes per cubic metre and your blocks would weigh approx 2.2 tonnes per cubic metre and so the soil has more pressure than the blocks.
Thanks for the video, we're doing something similar (on a smaller scale). Can I ask how you incorporated drainage to avoid the whole thing becoming a 'raft' and sliding in to the pond? Many thanks.
From what I can remember, on the hill side we ran a trough along the side of the foundation slab and put a heavy duty drainage pipe, emptying from the sides into the pond, backfilled with the stone. You can see the end of it at about 6:21. Good luck👍😁
This is very interesting. Thank you for sharing. I must share what is always on my layperson mind seeing such projects. I'm concerned about the excavation of soil in proximity to the foundation of a building with of course my concern being that the foundation might give away by shifting soil that is being pushed out sideways. At least I know this 'issue' would have made me very worried during this project.
Hey, I was 'very worried' 😁, fortunately, we built the house 20 years ago so I know what went into the foundation, I also know that it is in shale that banks back into the hillside. But in saying all that, I had a few weeks of sleepless nights and watching the walls for cracks all winter 🤣🤣🤣🤣👍🍷🍷🍷
Thanks for sharing the video. I've been looking at these blocks for some time now with a view of using them to a height of 10 to 12 feet over 65 feet in length. In essence to create an elevated off road parking facility for the families cars. Does your project allow for the weight vehicles to be parked? or is it just pedestrian access / patio area. My wall would be around 20 plus feet away from the house which sits on top of a bank.
I'm pretty sure it would be fine, but my suggestion would be that you contact your supplier and get them to run the specs for you,, just to make sure. They may suggest a different configuration for example.
It's good to see this innovative kind of construction, the blocks are correctly laid as it was done in a Running Bond method...and those shear keys are basically helpful to restrain the sliding (horizontal) lateral soil & hydrostatic (plus the live load surcharge) pressures coming from your earth-fill side...I would suggest though, that it is better to apply cement grout between blocks, so as to provide a better bonding between blocks...and to make it more structurally sound & have a better performing retaining wall structure is to provide a weep holes at regular intervals...to minimize the hydrostatic pressure on the structure...
It's not recommended to cement grout between joints. It prevents seepage of water which is a primary cause of failure. edit; ua-cam.com/video/-lkaVLBRrvM/v-deo.html this video shows why you don't grout retaining walls.
It was part of a bigger project, so difficult to cost. The blocks were about £60 each though and if the area is more accessible than ours was, you can use a digger to put the block down instead of a crane. Much cheaper and quicker than Gabions
Very interesting, and a definite improvement to your property. I wonder how much interest your local council took in the project? Did they have to approve your project?
Did you put an ag drain behind it? Looks great but appears you ran out of money. The wall would look nicer same height to the end so you have one long level site. Most impressed by the product though, thanks.
Thanks for that. Not so much that I ran out of money just the project took ages because of the weather. We have waited for the backfill to settle though as the first slabs we put on have sunk a bit. Send me your email (cloughs_stuff@btinternet.com) and I'll send you some up to date pics....
No freezing to any depth that would be a heave issue where this wall is located, would have been nice to see some gravel and geo textile behind the wall though.
They are the same size as the others but just turned sideways. It was suggested by the manufacturer so that some of the weight of the backfill would hold it on the foundation
so ..how come the wall steps down ...and how is the lower wall taking the extra weight where is the drainage gravel in Geo fabric for drainage behind the wall .... how come you didn't just fill in the pond..... with the money you had
The pond is a 100+ year old lodge that used to feed a very old mill, it's part of the area and now very ornamental. Also, can't fill it in because of a preservation order. The wall steps down because we want a top at the level of the house, and then two more terraces, that are big enough to be useful but also able to to be used for getting down to the level of the lodge and the new parking area. If you want me to send some follow up pic's so you get what I mean mail me at cloughs_stuff@btinternet.com
Thanks 👍. Wish I could upload a Pic of what it looks like now so that you can see why it's stepped. It's basically terraced, giving levels that can be used but also to be able to access the pond from up at the house. Send me your email to cloughs_stuff@btinternet.com and I'll send you some Pics if you want.
I see you're having a field day answering all the comments... ;-) I would have put the wall on the back half of the base, not the front. Your wall is now basically trying to lean forward, whereas leaning back, against the backfill would be more stable. Not as pretty though.. While the blocks seem impressive in size to a human, they are just lego blocks as you say. If they had few strategic vertical holes, then you could drop some rebar and concrete down the hole after laying to stitch it all together.
😁👍. I was going to say that I wasn't sure what you meant but as I'm typing, I fully understand. That would have been a good call. The company that I bought the blocks off and the builder came up with the idea of laying the first row in the opposite direction so that in effect, the back fill will sit on the first row and pin it in place so to speak (a bit like standing on some ones foot and trying to push them over) I'm hoping the soil will have settled enough to put the Yorkshire stone labs down this summer but if you want some up to date pics, email me on cloughs_stuff@btinternet.com
So that tiny retaining wall of cheap paver stones will prevent soil shifting and erosion into that water? Tell me you had a perk test done before hand lol I’m assuming you did but damn... those pavers look WEAK!!!!
@@kadmowI have the same idea for a castle home similar to Teleborg Castle. After designing the general layout on minecraft I wonder what an engineer would have to say.
They aren't anchors into the ground. When the retaining wall is in place, there needs to be a front of stone. We wanted to put a 10 degree slope on the base but couldn't, so we decided to put a foot in place instead. The Rebar is in the void between the retaining wall and the stone wall. This was filled with a foot of concrete to act as the foot so that the blocks wouldn't just slide of the foundation we had put down. Hope that helps?
No wall is better than the foundation beneath it. Your 4-5" deep concrete 'sidewalk' is no foundation at all, particularly on a hillside. Good luck to you, but I don't see this wall lasting more than ten years.
Thanks for the comment. The soil survey we had when we built the house (and from digging out) shows that the ground is shale that runs down and back into the hill fortunately. To the extent that we didn't even have to put a retaining wall behind the house when we dug out the hill for it.
Es würde mich interessieren, wie die Betongründung mit dem Boden verbunden ist . Der Bach könnte alles unterspülen, dann ist die Mauer ganz schnell nicht mehr im Lot ! Spundwände oder Horizontalanker hätten hier besser geholfen !
Agreed, if it was a river, bu tit is a lodge over 100 years old. The soil is shale and runs back into the hillside. Fingers crossed there will be no problems 😁👍
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thought those concrete blocks would cost more, thought this must cost a fortune when watching it.
@@atnfn Great value, the trickiest and expensive bit is the crane but if you have a flat area and can use a digger bucket as a hoist, even better
Blocklean un super outil de nettoyage après coulage 😊
I used to work for a small consulting company specializing in geotechnical, environmental and construction materials. Part of the job is asphalt, concrete and soil (including compaction) testing. One of the bridge-interchange projects we were contracted uses a lot of Lego-like retaining walls. Each block are attached to wire (rebars) panels which are similar to cattle panels but more dense and has rustproofing. The panels are laid out on the ground then covered with aggregates up to a certain level and compacted. Once the desired compaction is achieved, the next layer of wire panels are laid out. The process repeats like a multi-layer Lasagna where each level of retaining wall is anchored upon. Also, wick drains were installed (down to the bedrock) on the ground in and around the project site to facilitate ground compaction. Please look up the UA-cam video "Behind the Project: 23 Avenue Interchange" for insight on the project. Thank you.
DIY masterpiece! The video on using Concrete Lego Blocks for a retaining wall is a must-watch. It's a creative and effective way to elevate your outdoor space.
Blocklean... super outil de nettoyage après coulage 😊😊
We just built one of these to hold back a hill that was in the way of building a woodshop. We now have two walls and will be building another next year. The blocks are a bit different - ours weigh 2,400 lbs. each, have a decorative face, and have a different top, but apparently these massive blocks are catching on all over the place 😊 Yours is a much taller wall than ours and required a lot more work, but the result is the same - reclaimed space!
Quick and easy to 😁👍
@@CloughReviewscould you build a house with them?
@@christivson5266You could, but it would be overkill. Also, you wouldn't have a cavity for insulation.
@@CloughReviews how much do the blocks cost?
Excelente trabajo 👍
It's amazing video
Firstly as an engineer, I saw the first fault in your foundation. Concrete was poured onto the reinforcing mesh, that although was supported in a few places by sitting on the small bricks was mainly lying on the ground or in the mud. By not having the mesh either in the middle of the slab or close to it, the base slab has reduced strength.
Secondly, there isn't anything tying the blocks to the foundation slab apart from gravity. Once you get moist soil behind a retaining wall, it has enormous pressure and will push the base outwards.
Thirdly, once a retaining wall is over 1m high, there should be ties which are connected to the blocks and go back into the retained material the same height as the wall will end up being. As your wall is about 2.4m high, the ties, which usually consist of 2 lengths of 16mm rebar seperated by about 300mm should be attached securely to each block and laid horizontally into the retained area and then compacted fill put on top of them and repeated with each layer. Did you get this signed off by a structural engineer?
Yes, signed off. Also, I agree with you about the sideways force, that is why there is a raised (and tied) concrete edge to the base that prevents this.
Seems strange to think that without some kind of piles driven that the wall will sink at some point. Considering it is right next to a water source. Was any geotechnical survey done on this before the wall was planned?
We did a survey for when we built the house
Good question I hope the response was sufficient
That is an awful lot of weight
Yes. I would have drilled piles dow in a few places.
Nice. Those blocks can allow buildings on terrace hills.
Bel lavoro!
I suppose you had great luck that the house was not damaged when you removed the earth in front. Usually you have to secure the earth underneath the house by ramming in some piles before you dig the earth in front away.
why not just fill in the pond ...like anyone else
The manufacturer should make available "finished, smooth block toppers" for all size blocks for versatility....
They do, but I didn't realise when I placed the order. Fortunately, all of the top is being finished with Yorkshire stone slabs that will overhang the stone facing.
Thank you for posting. I can't think of anyone brought up with lego who doesn't want to do this.
It was fun to do 😁👍
Awesome
Considering using these blocks to form a retaining wall to hold up the side of a new concrete farm yard.
Thanks for the tip re the flat top block, the supplier I've spoken with didn't mention those and your quoted prices appear much better!
Cheers.
Great product, time to negotiate 👍😁
Had anyone used these to build a house? If they were tied together they would effectively become a solid wall with no risk of collapse from an earthquake.
Thanks for the nod, Your wall vid is the only UK one I have found and am still thinking this is the best option for a wall that I have. 70 feet long and 8 feet high effectively making a 16 feet or so wide, elevated platform for off road parking. Still a long way to go my end but curious as to any movement, deterioration of problems following completion. A follow up vid would be great. TIA
Hi, great video and love the other video you did years later showing it now. I’m looking to do the same, what website did get them from?
I got them from a cement company in Rochdale. It went bust during covid but I'm pretty sure they are readily available all over. Good luck 👍🏻😁
Excellent video great fast and definitely way to go. . I am contractor my self and this video is educational and opens new ides. You did Excellent job of recording total process step by step.Only thing that i wold likely do before backfill of soil to put some waterproof on inside. Only reason for this is if you install stone on the front may show moisture spots after couple years. I see you had drainage pipe very important. GOOD JOB.
Aww, thanks for that Lotus. We did lay stone on the front but with the 4" gap like on a house so hopefully no moisture spots. We are still letting the soil settle at the moment before finishing laying slabs on the terraces but if you want updates pics, let me know cloughs_stuff@btinternet.com 😁👍
Would love to see some more of the finished wall and the foundation detail as the slab seemed quite shallow. Did you back fill with stone and a perforated drain behind too or is the idea that the water will seep though in any case as the blocks aren’t bonded together??
Great job
Interesting. Personally I'm a little nervous that that pad didn't have footings of its own to lock into the earth or that the pad didn't have any substantial rebar in it. It had a mesh but that's not reinforcement enough in my opinion. There would have been a 3-ft deep footer on the backside as well as rebar grid at one foot increments throughout.
Nice wall though.
Could you use these to build a house or a large workshop?
Don't see any reason why not, probably overkill to be honest and you wouldn't have a cavity for insulation
@@CloughReviews
Thanks for the reply!
It would be really fast and solid though.
You could use an inner wall with insulation between and clad it with green sheets outside so it looks like a barn.
Our "mafia blocks" in the northeast of the US seem to be simpler than your frankly exciting "lego" style cmu's. Here they are I believe 2' x 2' x 4' with a triangular-section female longitudinal keyway on the bottom a corresponding male key on the top. A loop of #4 or#5 rebar poking out of the top of the block provides a lifting point. These are typically made from excess or washout concrete at a batch plant where the concrete delivery trucks get their loads.
I'll have to have a look
How did you work out what loading the ground could take, so you know that it will not subside. I would have thought piling would be applicable.
If it had been supporting anything other than infill, I agree, piling would have been a option to look at. We did a soil survey when building the house and it's all shale that doesn't compress and leans back into the hillside
When you backfill up against the retaining wall... Whats to stop the soil from pushing the wall out? Isn't there usually horizontal strapping anchors that are tied into the wall that are buried in the backfill to stop the retaining wall from buckling outwards over time?
I get the type of thing you are describing, not something that was suggested by the manufacturers on this build though. At 1 Ton per block, the downward force is enough and the bottom section is anchored to stop any sliding
@@CloughReviews waterlogged soil would weigh about 2.5 tonnes per cubic metre and your blocks would weigh approx 2.2 tonnes per cubic metre and so the soil has more pressure than the blocks.
Do you guys always drink on the job
When you built the skin of facing stone did you have to tie it to the blocks in any way? And was the stonework done with lime mortar? Cheers.
We screwed angled bar to the concrete blocks and used those as ties. Just normal sand/cement morter👍🏻
Thanks for the video, we're doing something similar (on a smaller scale). Can I ask how you incorporated drainage to avoid the whole thing becoming a 'raft' and sliding in to the pond?
Many thanks.
From what I can remember, on the hill side we ran a trough along the side of the foundation slab and put a heavy duty drainage pipe, emptying from the sides into the pond, backfilled with the stone. You can see the end of it at about 6:21. Good luck👍😁
@@CloughReviews Thanks for the reply. Cheers
Hello, What thickness of concrete did you pour before laying the blocks? 😁
Trying to remember, could have been about 8" reinforced I think. The ground below was good
@@CloughReviews thank you for the precision 😁
can you use these to build a castle house???
What's a castle house?
This is very interesting. Thank you for sharing. I must share what is always on my layperson mind seeing such projects. I'm concerned about the excavation of soil in proximity to the foundation of a building with of course my concern being that the foundation might give away by shifting soil that is being pushed out sideways. At least I know this 'issue' would have made me very worried during this project.
Hey, I was 'very worried' 😁, fortunately, we built the house 20 years ago so I know what went into the foundation, I also know that it is in shale that banks back into the hillside. But in saying all that, I had a few weeks of sleepless nights and watching the walls for cracks all winter 🤣🤣🤣🤣👍🍷🍷🍷
Thanks for sharing the video. I've been looking at these blocks for some time now with a view of using them to a height of 10 to 12 feet over 65 feet in length. In essence to create an elevated off road parking facility for the families cars. Does your project allow for the weight vehicles to be parked? or is it just pedestrian access / patio area. My wall would be around 20 plus feet away from the house which sits on top of a bank.
I'm pretty sure it would be fine, but my suggestion would be that you contact your supplier and get them to run the specs for you,, just to make sure. They may suggest a different configuration for example.
Does the supplier offer a structural design or is that down to you
They came to site and worked out a plan that they provided to the builder
It's good to see this innovative kind of construction, the blocks are correctly laid as it was done in a Running Bond method...and those shear keys are basically helpful to restrain the sliding (horizontal) lateral soil & hydrostatic (plus the live load surcharge) pressures coming from your earth-fill side...I would suggest though, that it is better to apply cement grout between blocks, so as to provide a better bonding between blocks...and to make it more structurally sound & have a better performing retaining wall structure is to provide a weep holes at regular intervals...to minimize the hydrostatic pressure on the structure...
Now that is impressive knowledge 😁👍
And to have plenty of clean stone and field drain behind for good drainage and no water build up
It's not recommended to cement grout between joints. It prevents seepage of water which is a primary cause of failure.
edit; ua-cam.com/video/-lkaVLBRrvM/v-deo.html this video shows why you don't grout retaining walls.
Great video need to do the same sort of thing
what was the cost for groundwork’s and installation ?
It was part of a bigger project, so difficult to cost. The blocks were about £60 each though and if the area is more accessible than ours was, you can use a digger to put the block down instead of a crane. Much cheaper and quicker than Gabions
Very interesting, and a definite improvement to your property. I wonder how much interest your local council took in the project? Did they have to approve your project?
We had Planning for an extension that encompassed the wall. So far we have only completed this part of it and made a few changes for the top part.
@@CloughReviews thanks for the reply.
Did you put an ag drain behind it? Looks great but appears you ran out of money. The wall would look nicer same height to the end so you have one long level site. Most impressed by the product though, thanks.
Thanks for that. Not so much that I ran out of money just the project took ages because of the weather. We have waited for the backfill to settle though as the first slabs we put on have sunk a bit. Send me your email (cloughs_stuff@btinternet.com) and I'll send you some up to date pics....
That's just your ADHD messing with you
Are there any piers or pilings below the concrete foundation? I sure hope so!
Nope, none
When winter comes, that wall will most likely move forward when whats behind the wall freezes and expands. did you account for this?
Already been through a winter.....
@@CloughReviews and ?
No freezing to any depth that would be a heave issue where this wall is located, would have been nice to see some gravel and geo textile behind the wall though.
Hi why did you use the bigger blocks on the bottom ?
They are the same size as the others but just turned sideways. It was suggested by the manufacturer so that some of the weight of the backfill would hold it on the foundation
Nice property, I hope you'l l do updated when the project advances more!
Thanks, it feels like it's gone on for ages now 😁👍
Someone should build a fallout bunker using these. Would be alot better than a shipping container underground that people do
Well done, looks excellent.😃👌👏👏
Many thanks 😁👍. Still a bit of a work in progress, letting the soil settle before we lay slabs
so ..how come the wall steps down ...and how is the lower wall taking the extra weight where is the drainage gravel in Geo fabric for drainage behind the wall .... how come you didn't just fill in the pond..... with the money you had
The pond is a 100+ year old lodge that used to feed a very old mill, it's part of the area and now very ornamental. Also, can't fill it in because of a preservation order.
The wall steps down because we want a top at the level of the house, and then two more terraces, that are big enough to be useful but also able to to be used for getting down to the level of the lodge and the new parking area. If you want me to send some follow up pic's so you get what I mean mail me at cloughs_stuff@btinternet.com
What are they like to drill into with bolts? Cheers
Absolutely fine, we had to attach anchor strips for the stonework we faced it with 👍
@@CloughReviews cool thanks I have to bolt down shoes on top to hold posts. Standard SDS drill will do it.
Thanks
@@finalfencing SDS will perfect 👌
Great video, did you compare the cost of this against a reinforced concrete wall using traditional shuttering?
Similar cost but this was so much quicker
IM wondering if a large mansion can be built with these, also are they structural safe without cementing them together????
r?
For speed, I'm sure they would work. You could tie in internal walls etc. You would have to go to a structural engineer though for the specs
What is the name of YKk’s zip lift up the Concrete block? Thanks.
No idea, we bought it direct from the block manufacturers
Good thing the Lego block patent ran out s while back.
Would like to build a house with them
Thank you great information and love the property.
Thank you, I appreciate that 👍
Great to see thank you for the video.
Why didn’t you continue with the blocks all the way across. I think I would have. Nice vid. Straight to the point.☘️
Thanks 👍. Wish I could upload a Pic of what it looks like now so that you can see why it's stepped. It's basically terraced, giving levels that can be used but also to be able to access the pond from up at the house. Send me your email to cloughs_stuff@btinternet.com and I'll send you some Pics if you want.
There should be gravel behind rocks for drainage.
There is, and and a drainage pipe taking the water into the pond 👍
An excellent, informative video. Thank you GL. NZ
Thanks Lloyd 😁👍
How much are the blocks?
Off the top of my head, I think they were around £60 each (+VAT)
Now I have to build a broch
Very nice.
Thanks for the Video
I want to build a house out of these.
Me too. Trying to find an example. Might be a fast way of building a small castle.
@@ivantoxie found any examples?
I see you're having a field day answering all the comments... ;-)
I would have put the wall on the back half of the base, not the front. Your wall is now basically trying to lean forward, whereas leaning back, against the backfill would be more stable. Not as pretty though..
While the blocks seem impressive in size to a human, they are just lego blocks as you say. If they had few strategic vertical holes, then you could drop some rebar and concrete down the hole after laying to stitch it all together.
😁👍. I was going to say that I wasn't sure what you meant but as I'm typing, I fully understand. That would have been a good call. The company that I bought the blocks off and the builder came up with the idea of laying the first row in the opposite direction so that in effect, the back fill will sit on the first row and pin it in place so to speak (a bit like standing on some ones foot and trying to push them over) I'm hoping the soil will have settled enough to put the Yorkshire stone labs down this summer but if you want some up to date pics, email me on cloughs_stuff@btinternet.com
So that tiny retaining wall of cheap paver stones will prevent soil shifting and erosion into that water? Tell me you had a perk test done before hand lol I’m assuming you did but damn... those pavers look WEAK!!!!
Can those concrete blocks be used to build a house such as the walls instead of using brick or cinder blocks or would it not be up to code?
I think you would find they would be way too big.
The wrong kind of block, these don't get mortar. Wrong size too.
@Porco Rosso : Was about to comment re size - for castle wall - or mini pyramid lol.. (ok I did it anyway)
@@kadmowI have the same idea for a castle home similar to Teleborg Castle. After designing the general layout on minecraft I wonder what an engineer would have to say.
No one on UA-cam.
Drills. Set's pole's.
Anchors into the ground 🤷♂️🤷♂️❓❓
Especially that tall..
They aren't anchors into the ground. When the retaining wall is in place, there needs to be a front of stone. We wanted to put a 10 degree slope on the base but couldn't, so we decided to put a foot in place instead. The Rebar is in the void between the retaining wall and the stone wall. This was filled with a foot of concrete to act as the foot so that the blocks wouldn't just slide of the foundation we had put down. Hope that helps?
No wall is better than the foundation beneath it. Your 4-5" deep concrete 'sidewalk' is no foundation at all, particularly on a hillside. Good luck to you, but I don't see this wall lasting more than ten years.
Thanks for the comment. The soil survey we had when we built the house (and from digging out) shows that the ground is shale that runs down and back into the hill fortunately. To the extent that we didn't even have to put a retaining wall behind the house when we dug out the hill for it.
@@CloughReviews It looks rather sketchy to me. I hope it works our for you.
Now price going more then double 2023
I can believe it, all prices are stupid at the moment
we need many thousand of this to defend public celebrations all arround the country against terrorism
Won't work against machete attacks.
what an odd reply
No piles to anchor the concrete stab what’s to stop it all sliding into stream
Yeh they didn't copy Lego did they
Good luck with that footing.
😁 It's working so far 👍
Ein Video mit Standbildern, o my god!!!!
Es würde mich interessieren, wie die Betongründung mit dem Boden verbunden ist .
Der Bach könnte alles unterspülen, dann ist die Mauer ganz schnell nicht mehr im Lot !
Spundwände oder Horizontalanker hätten hier besser geholfen !
Agreed, if it was a river, bu tit is a lodge over 100 years old. The soil is shale and runs back into the hillside. Fingers crossed there will be no problems 😁👍
So.......lego.
No thanks
LEGO anyone !?