Hello. Interesting video. I have a Vectra C with a Z18XE engine. When replacing the timing belt, I used a plastic timing gear lock. In Poland, it cost about 12 euros. It makes the job easier because the wheels are immobilized. Best regards.
I'm just changing my timing belt with the full kit and a new water pump on my 2006 Holden XC Tigra. Very similar to the job you just did. You're a lifesaver because the new belt has been checked against the old one for length and I'm having trouble getting the adjuster pulley in. It seems I've got one of the tensioner rollers in wrong, so I'll attend to that tomorrow. Because time isn't an issue I actually removed the engine mount casting to give myself a clearer space. I marked my camshaft pulleys and crankshaft pulley as you did, and I don't anticipate any other issues. The old water pump was in good fettle and just dropped out. The new one dropped in just as easily with a touch of rubber grease on the o-ring. I'm just a retired guy working in my garage but I've been around engines all my working life though never as a mechanic. I was apprenticed as a mechanical fitter about a 100 years ago. It's all nuts and bolts to me. I've got 159,000 on the odo and according to the log the timing belt was changed at 90,000, so I could have gone a bunch more kms before the change. Thank you muchly for providing a clear and practical commentary on how the pro's do it. It took me a while to find you but I'm glad I did. The video has answered a bit of head scratching I still have, so I'm better prepared for tomorrow. Should be finished tomorrow. Been a 3 day leisurely job with plenty of tea and moral support from the missus...
That's awesome mate...I have a few timing betl/waterpump replacement vids...They all say the same pretty much...Check for the correct belt change interval...The early engines due date was 60,000km the same as the spark plugs the latter engines was 90,000km...I'll check my book tomorrow and get back to you on that....Cheers mate.
@@ziggassedup I only realised that removing the inner engine mount casting threw me off. One of the pulleys is attached to that, and not where I'd put it. Easy fix no issues after that and everything went back smoothly. I've ordered a new offside engine mount, the existing one is buggered. I'll change that when it comes next week. Just an oil and filter change tomorrow. What I did notice is that the new button head bolt which came with the new tensioner pulley doesn't have a very deep torx slot and you really only get one bite at it. I made sure my torx bit was ground nice and sharp. I had to chisel the old one off. That spring loaded alternator belt tensioner is a bit of a trap for new chums too. Fixed that by mounting it in a vice, pre-loading it till the two circular holes lined up and shoved a split-pin in to hold it while I mounted the belt, then used a pinch bar to load it a little more and remove the split-pin so the thing takes up the tension. Another revelation, never seen that before... Sorry for going on but I'm just stoked that I found your vid. Many thanks ZIG...
Excellent no nonsense vid mate, thanks lot. I was bored to tears watching another and came to this, saved me about an hour AND saved me buying a locking tool. :D
The timing belt on these actually seems pretty easy compared to most. Once that air box is out of the way there is a lot of room. I wish all engines had that much room to work. Oh, and the zip tie trick is great. I probably would have just shoved something in between the gears if I hadn't seen that.
Repaired so many of these from tensioner failure due to incorrect setup, must do 2 revolutions and recheck tensioner and firstly turn in the correct direction!
Spent all day today wondering about how to change water pump in 2006 AH Astra. We got 10 km out of town this morning when overtemp light came on. Pulled off road. Looked for leaks (none) and have decided its either thermostat or water pump. Needs new timing belt anyway so this video has come in really handy. Sending car to my local mechanic with this video link attached:). Am just over repairing cars this year... And It lets my mechanic know I've checked a timeframe on his labour. Should take him about half an hour:):):):0
Hey mate I did the timing belt and set the tensioner and tightened as required, then when I turn the crank full rotations, the tensioner arm jumps at least 10mm is that a dodgy component or am I doing it wrong? Cheers
Tip. Check codes before you do any work. Check again at end. That way you can identify new codes showing you have disturb something /failed to reinstall something when working
Didn't like how this was done. Quote: Rotating the tensioner in the wrong direction, having the Allen key hole in a wrong position to start off, not turning the engine 2 revolutions before and after setting the tension, can lead to system failure. This will cause the arm of the tensioner to hit the stop, creating a hammering noise, damaging and possibly even rupturing that part. This failure mode is very common and can easily be recognised when inspecting the edge of the arm (fig. 4). The resulting wrong tension can cause the belt to rupture. End quote.
Did you read the description.?..There are more than one way to skin a cat and I have skinned many of this breed of cat...Just sayin'....Thanks for your input...When in doubt follow the directions.
you where correct old timer thanks heaps no more engine light timing was out now i got to remove the perm codes thinking remove battery post and neg and use jumper leads and let it discharge for hour that work?
Just smashed my water pump today to get it out. Practically welded in. Original pump on a 2000 Zafira! It was rotten. Previous owner had the belt done twice but never bothered changing the pump, tensioner or idlers 🙄
@@ziggassedupI'm now having a right bugger of a "time" getting the belt tensioned properly. I can not get the marks on the tensioner to line up properly, the belt is so loose it's like it's way too big but it's the same size as what's come off there. Ruined the new tensioner due to putting too much force on the Allen key hole. Seems like these tensioners are not auto adjusting? Bit stuck now tbh. Cheers 👍
hey rusty great work on all cars thumbs up to you bud this timing belt kit same as my 2012 opel astra j 1.6 litre turbo A16LET setup as i got a p0016 alignment issue so do i follow this video for marking and lines etc get back thanks again keep the videos coming
You did the tensioning procedure completely wrong and that can cause the tensioner to fail. There's even a warning on the workshop manual NOT to do it the way you did. Here's how it's done correctly: 1. turn the tensioner anticlockwise until pointer at far right past "new" bracket. Lightly tighten tensioner bolt. 2. rotate engine two turns and ensure timing marks aligned. 3. loosen tensioner bolt and turn tensioner clockwise until pointer at "new'" bracket. Allen key hole should be pointing around 5 o'clock. Tighten bolt to 22 nm. 4. rotate engine two turns and ensure timing marks aligned. Ensure pointer at "new" bracket. 5. done.
You're absolutely correct...Thanks for your input...I've yet to have one fail...Just saying...Does it matter if you route the belt opposite to the direction of the arrows.?
You have turned the tensioner the wrong way. Should have gone anti clockwise. If you look at the beginning of the video the tensioner Allen key is at 5 o clock position. Though it's such an easy mistake . Tensioner will eventually break and fail
I'm glad you paid enough attention to notice the clocking of the allen key but that means nothing..The tentioner is set by the position of the indicator.(Pretension on the belt)..As the engine turns the tensioner indicator will go both beyond the indicated mark and well before it (Belt stretch)...Thanks for watching...BTW...I've never had one fail ever with this method and I've done 100's of them..It can't be just luck now could it.?..Just sayin'...
ZIGgassedUP I'm not trying this argue with you. But here is some part info on the tensioner. It is such a common mistake www.partinfo.co.uk/files/TB01.pdf
@@ziggassedup is correct it makes no differance,as long as the pointer is in the correct position and you rotate the crank a few times and recheck the pointer is in the correct position then all is good.
ZIGgassedUP if you do you will be the first person to do it. Trying to do oil pump on my daughters 04 Astra and can't find much info on how to do it. Even the Gregory's repair manual is not that detailed on how to do oil pump.
ZIGgassedUP yeah I have a new pump and mechanic told me oil pump needs replacing because engine was a bit rattling I took sump off and oil pick up was blocked so I'm thinking that's what the probs might have been.
Hey mate! How long roughly do you think replacing the water pump and tensioner would take someone at home with a fair bit of mechanical experience? An hour, 2 hours?
Gday mate, good video. I am changing a head gasket on holden viva which looks similar. Question is, do I have to have the engine in a certain position before I mark the gears? Top dead centre or something like that? cheers.
Yes it's best to have the engine at TDC#1..There are marks that indicate that position on the crank gear and on the cam gears...If you can't find them you should google an image for their position...I'd also suggest changing the water pump and the timing belt and associated pulleys and tensioner...Good luck with it mate.
@@ziggassedup thanks again mate, yer got the bolts out of the cover. I just noticed that i think the timing pullies have to come off to get the backing cover off to remove the head. These cars are a maze of things bolted together. Lol, going crazy atm.
G'day Zig, do you sell the parts for this repair as a kit? And i'm guessing you run/work for a business in Sydney somewhere? No need to divulge on YT where that is, but i do have one of these treasures that was given to my daughter from her grandparents, and it needs the water pump and timing belt done.
G'day Keith...I perchase the kit from a spare parts supplier...If you have a Bursons Auto parts near you they will have all you need...Cheers mate and good luck with it...Oh and I'm in Sydney's west.
Hi i have a Z18XE Astra and the intake cam is out of TDC, possibly whilst removing the cylinder head.......is there an easy way to correct it. THANKS FOR THE POST... IS IWELL DONE .
Yes...There are slots in the rear of the cams...Both cam slots should line up horizontally to the back of the cylinder head surface...If you have a metal strip like a file that fits in that slot it will lock the cams in TDC #1...Also if you have not removed the cam gears the alignment dots on the gears should line up as seen in the beginning...If you have removed the gears then use the metal strip to align the cams and then position the gears with the crank at TDC and the cam gears to the said marks when the belt goes on...Good luck and thanks.
Gday again, Thanks again for the good advice it helped me heaps. I finally got the head of and it has been machined etc. I was wondering if you could tell me where a good place to download a service manual? Is there an online site where mechanics use?
@@Dapitchfork That's a bit more than I charge for parts and labour...$150 for a belt kit...$75 for a pump...$45 for a belt...$30 for coolant..About 5 hours in time @ $110/ph if the water pump comes out easy and you'll have made good profit...Cheers.
If it's leaking at that end of the engine it's a good chance the pump is leaking but there is also a hose at the rear of the block that feeds the pump tat can leak also so have a look at that too.
Gday mate, any advice, the notes that came with the head gasket kit are different torque settings to my service manual. The notes say 25nm then +65 +65 +65 and service manual says 25nm +90 +90 +90. Not to sure which one to use. The sequence is also different, just opposite side but still from the center out.
Hi Zig. Got a question for you, mr wisdom... my vz 6.0 needs a bigger alternator i have decided, do you have any idea where to start? does the new 6.2 have a bigger amperage, if they do will they fit my car?
G'day Paul...Here's what I've found over the years...6.0's and 6.2's don't like aftermarket alternators so if I have to change one I buy a new one from Holden...They're not cheap but it's the best way to go...I hope that helps mate.
hey mate, I worked on my astra and engine seems to have lost compression. OBD shows P0100 MAF, P0110 Air Intake Temp, P0340 Cam position sensor A circuit, P0101 MAF performance problem. its Astra TS with Z18XE engine. I did mark timing sprockets as shown, only wsnt marked was the crank sproket and also after fitting new belt I turned crank gear to TDC. You reckon Crank sensor needs changed now or something else ? thanks :)
The international market turned the heads of the directors I guess Steve...There will be Holden dealerships who sell cars with the Holden badge but they're not a true Aussie Holden.
after replacing the timing belt and replacing cam position sensor due to a scan error wiring was exposed. the engine is running rough. crank sensor is fine any ideas how to fix this issue
@@ziggassedup thanks for the reply turns out timing was all good but some how the vacuum hose from the throttle body come off that hooks up to the sensor near the air filter. After all that car runs well again.
Hey anyone know if the timing belt snaps in one of these engines, the valves and internals are cooked? I know some engines are ok after a snapped timing belt, cheers
Anti clockwise...If you can put a breaker bar on the crank bolt and rest it onto a secure section of chassis then if you unplug the coils you can click the starter over untill it breaks the bolt loose but be sure to set the engine to TDC before you remove anything after that....
Okay thanks mate. One more question just having trouble holding the cams in postion while i loosen harmolic bolt how do i keep it all its same position?
@@mattlome9796 You can loosen the bolt and time it again...There are more timing marks inside the cover...Remove the balancer and covers and use the balancer bolt to turn the engine to the correct position...I'm sure there is something in the vid showing where the marks should be before removing the old belt.
You’re a bloody legend.. I’m doing this tomorrow to my Astra lol.. from NZ 🇳🇿
Cheers mate.
Hello. Interesting video. I have a Vectra C with a Z18XE engine. When replacing the timing belt, I used a plastic timing gear lock. In Poland, it cost about 12 euros. It makes the job easier because the wheels are immobilized. Best regards.
Thanks for sharing
I'm just changing my timing belt with the full kit and a new water pump on my 2006 Holden XC Tigra. Very similar to the job you just did. You're a lifesaver because the new belt has been checked against the old one for length and I'm having trouble getting the adjuster pulley in. It seems I've got one of the tensioner rollers in wrong, so I'll attend to that tomorrow. Because time isn't an issue I actually removed the engine mount casting to give myself a clearer space. I marked my camshaft pulleys and crankshaft pulley as you did, and I don't anticipate any other issues. The old water pump was in good fettle and just dropped out. The new one dropped in just as easily with a touch of rubber grease on the o-ring. I'm just a retired guy working in my garage but I've been around engines all my working life though never as a mechanic. I was apprenticed as a mechanical fitter about a 100 years ago. It's all nuts and bolts to me. I've got 159,000 on the odo and according to the log the timing belt was changed at 90,000, so I could have gone a bunch more kms before the change.
Thank you muchly for providing a clear and practical commentary on how the pro's do it. It took me a while to find you but I'm glad I did. The video has answered a bit of head scratching I still have, so I'm better prepared for tomorrow. Should be finished tomorrow. Been a 3 day leisurely job with plenty of tea and moral support from the missus...
That's awesome mate...I have a few timing betl/waterpump replacement vids...They all say the same pretty much...Check for the correct belt change interval...The early engines due date was 60,000km the same as the spark plugs the latter engines was 90,000km...I'll check my book tomorrow and get back to you on that....Cheers mate.
@@ziggassedup I only realised that removing the inner engine mount casting threw me off. One of the pulleys is attached to that, and not where I'd put it. Easy fix no issues after that and everything went back smoothly. I've ordered a new offside engine mount, the existing one is buggered. I'll change that when it comes next week. Just an oil and filter change tomorrow. What I did notice is that the new button head bolt which came with the new tensioner pulley doesn't have a very deep torx slot and you really only get one bite at it. I made sure my torx bit was ground nice and sharp. I had to chisel the old one off. That spring loaded alternator belt tensioner is a bit of a trap for new chums too. Fixed that by mounting it in a vice, pre-loading it till the two circular holes lined up and shoved a split-pin in to hold it while I mounted the belt, then used a pinch bar to load it a little more and remove the split-pin so the thing takes up the tension. Another revelation, never seen that before...
Sorry for going on but I'm just stoked that I found your vid. Many thanks ZIG...
@@logotrikes You've done well mate...I'm glad to have been some help.
Screwdriver and zip tie , bloody smart. Well done Zig. 👍👍
Welcome to the world of improvisation Steve....Special tools.?...Nope...Not for me.
the right video at the right time thanks a lot from Libya
You're welcome.
Excellent no nonsense vid mate, thanks lot. I was bored to tears watching another and came to this, saved me about an hour AND saved me buying a locking tool. :D
I'm glad it helped you...Cheers.
The timing belt on these actually seems pretty easy compared to most. Once that air box is out of the way there is a lot of room. I wish all engines had that much room to work. Oh, and the zip tie trick is great. I probably would have just shoved something in between the gears if I hadn't seen that.
Cheers mate.
Thank you for taking the time to post that vid! It's people like you who make UA-cam more useful
Thank you sir.
Repaired so many of these from tensioner failure due to incorrect setup, must do 2 revolutions and recheck tensioner and firstly turn in the correct direction!
Congratulations...Never had one fail yet.
Great job ZIG , always a smart move to put a kit in and not cut any corners .
It's best for peace of mind..Cheers Lloyd.
Spent all day today wondering about how to change water pump in 2006 AH Astra. We got 10 km out of town this morning when overtemp light came on. Pulled off road. Looked for leaks (none) and have decided its either thermostat or water pump. Needs new timing belt anyway so this video has come in really handy. Sending car to my local mechanic with this video link attached:). Am just over repairing cars this year... And It lets my mechanic know I've checked a timeframe on his labour. Should take him about half an hour:):):):0
If he can do it in 1/2 hour I'll send him some work...lol.
I expect it would be similar in my PT Cruiser. I'll leave it to the Pros like you anymore. Good job Ziggy
They're all much of a muchness George...Thanks mate.
Hey mate I did the timing belt and set the tensioner and tightened as required, then when I turn the crank full rotations, the tensioner arm jumps at least 10mm is that a dodgy component or am I doing it wrong? Cheers
Is it a new tensioner.?...They do move a bit...
Tip. Check codes before you do any work. Check again at end. That way you can identify new codes showing you have disturb something /failed to reinstall something when working
Cheers.
Cheers bud, appreciate you taking the time to film and post this.
You're welcome mate.
Didn't like how this was done. Quote: Rotating the tensioner in the wrong direction, having the Allen key hole in a wrong position to start off, not turning the engine 2 revolutions before and after setting the tension, can lead to system failure. This will cause the arm of the tensioner to hit the stop, creating a hammering noise, damaging and possibly even rupturing that part. This failure mode is very common and can easily be recognised when inspecting the edge of the arm (fig. 4). The resulting wrong tension can cause the belt to rupture. End quote.
Did you read the description.?..There are more than one way to skin a cat and I have skinned many of this breed of cat...Just sayin'....Thanks for your input...When in doubt follow the directions.
I agree very sloppy really spose his a there just fkn cars type bloke
Never reuse the idlers or pump.
This would make the car run rough and idle rough and sometimes stall??
I wouldn't think so.
Good stuff Zig. That lift is handy for a job like this.
Thanks John...The lift makes it much easier on my back that's for sure.
you where correct old timer thanks heaps no more engine light timing was out now i got to remove the perm codes thinking remove battery post and neg and use jumper leads and let it discharge for hour that work?
Go get yourself a cheap code reader and clear the codes...Cheers mate.
you're a great teacher and that was one floppy belt!
Thanks Badger...Yeah..It was well and truly done.
Just smashed my water pump today to get it out. Practically welded in. Original pump on a 2000 Zafira! It was rotten. Previous owner had the belt done twice but never bothered changing the pump, tensioner or idlers 🙄
Yep I always change the whole lot...Cheers mate.
@@ziggassedupI'm now having a right bugger of a "time" getting the belt tensioned properly. I can not get the marks on the tensioner to line up properly, the belt is so loose it's like it's way too big but it's the same size as what's come off there. Ruined the new tensioner due to putting too much force on the Allen key hole. Seems like these tensioners are not auto adjusting? Bit stuck now tbh. Cheers 👍
There's a tap on the bottom right hand side of the radiator to drain the coolan
Yep.
followed our proceedure with great success thank you very much keep up the good work cheers
You're welcome mate...Cheers.
great tip..marking the timing....oh the headache iffins you dont eh...thank you for sharing...beer time
Get it wrong and prepare for a big mess...Cheers Rob.
When you are talking about the sensor at 19:08 is the alignment out on the marks?
Yeah the exhaust cam rolled a tad but no biggie as long as it's aligned when the belt goes on.
Some time you get lucky and they come out easy. Great video!
I'd rather lucky than good sometimes...Cheers.
Very well done! And with that said it must be about beer O clock. Cheers Zig!
Thank you sir....Yep it's beer O'clock again.
hey rusty great work on all cars thumbs up to you bud this timing belt kit same as my 2012 opel astra j 1.6 litre turbo A16LET setup as i got a p0016 alignment issue so do i follow this video for marking and lines etc get back thanks again keep the videos coming
Mark the lines the same and she'll be sweet mate.
The cam center marks are off by factory design. It's not because of the timing belt slack. Weird but yes, it's an Opel/Vauxhall by design.
Yep.
Excellent video
Thank you very much!
What a legend great video to watch and very helpful.
Thank you.
Thanks i just changed mine by miself great vid
Good on ya mate...Glad it helped...Cheers.
You did the tensioning procedure completely wrong and that can cause the tensioner to fail. There's even a warning on the workshop manual NOT to do it the way you did.
Here's how it's done correctly:
1. turn the tensioner anticlockwise until pointer at far right past "new" bracket. Lightly tighten tensioner bolt.
2. rotate engine two turns and ensure timing marks aligned.
3. loosen tensioner bolt and turn tensioner clockwise until pointer at "new'" bracket. Allen key hole should be pointing around 5 o'clock. Tighten bolt to 22 nm.
4. rotate engine two turns and ensure timing marks aligned. Ensure pointer at "new" bracket.
5. done.
You're absolutely correct...Thanks for your input...I've yet to have one fail...Just saying...Does it matter if you route the belt opposite to the direction of the arrows.?
i missed me bucket.... this phrase is being said a lot in our house these days. hilarious.. great video too btw.
Cheers mate.
You have turned the tensioner the wrong way. Should have gone anti clockwise. If you look at the beginning of the video the tensioner Allen key is at 5 o clock position. Though it's such an easy mistake . Tensioner will eventually break and fail
I'm glad you paid enough attention to notice the clocking of the allen key but that means nothing..The tentioner is set by the position of the indicator.(Pretension on the belt)..As the engine turns the tensioner indicator will go both beyond the indicated mark and well before it (Belt stretch)...Thanks for watching...BTW...I've never had one fail ever with this method and I've done 100's of them..It can't be just luck now could it.?..Just sayin'...
ZIGgassedUP I'm not trying this argue with you. But here is some part info on the tensioner. It is such a common mistake www.partinfo.co.uk/files/TB01.pdf
A good bit of info..Cheers mate...I guess I must just be lucky..The kit I use mentions nothing about the allen key position.
@@ziggassedup is correct it makes no differance,as long as the pointer is in the correct position and you rotate the crank a few times and recheck the pointer is in the correct position then all is good.
I like this video... Helps a lot... Thanks mate... Good job
Thanks mate...Glad to help.
Thanks for taking us along Zig!
Thanks for checking in Erik.
Hola Holden Astra ?? acá en Argentina se comercializó como Chevrolet Astra , muy buen video saludos
Watching this after my timing belt failed because the tensioner was installed incorrectly "like this one". Please follow the correct repair procedure.
You make it look so easy Zig.
Great work buddy. :-)
Cheers Cecil...It's not real hard to do.
How do you smash the water pump? Serious question. Plse answer soon. Thank you
Not always do you need to smash the water pump...
Great video. I would love a video on how to do the oil pump on this engine
If the opportunity to do a pump vid I will...Thanks Christopher.
ZIGgassedUP if you do you will be the first person to do it. Trying to do oil pump on my daughters 04 Astra and can't find much info on how to do it. Even the Gregory's repair manual is not that detailed on how to do oil pump.
@@christopherkennedy4004 Do you have a new pump.? and why are you working on the pump.?.
ZIGgassedUP yeah I have a new pump and mechanic told me oil pump needs replacing because engine was a bit rattling I took sump off and oil pick up was blocked so I'm thinking that's what the probs might have been.
@@christopherkennedy4004 Clean the pick up and sump and you should be good...I've done it many times...
awesome video man
Thank you.
Cam pully retainer kit $16 off ebay assures your cams stay put ends saving time most cases
Fixed like a champ!
Thanks Rich.
you the boss thank you very much for the good job keep it up.
Thank you.
Hi, should the marks on cam pulleys be in one line with centers of pulleys?
Yes..
@@ziggassedup It means I've done it correctly. Thanks.
so helpful man!! cheers cobba!!
Glad to help mate..Cheers.
The Torx head on my timing belt tensioner has stripped.. any tips to get it off? no access to a welder or grinder
See if you can turn it with a center punch or take the head off with a chisel...It's only mild steel so that shouldn't be too hard...Good luck mate.
I dont understand 16:00
Yeah that was a bit crap...Sorry.
@@ziggassedup lol not sure if being genuine or just smart ass bogan no offence ...
@@vincentvrai lol...Yep a genuine smart arse bogan..No offence taken and well spotted...Cheers mate.
@@ziggassedup im not confused at all...
I always mark the old belt with white marker as well just incase you need to count teeth to double check...I hate east/west engines...lol
I use to count the teeth but I've done so many belts now that I can tell it the belt is correct...Yep ..Transverse engines suck
Hey mate! How long roughly do you think replacing the water pump and tensioner would take someone at home with a fair bit of mechanical experience? An hour, 2 hours?
I'd set aside about 3 hrs Braydon...Cheers mate and good luck with it.
A job well done. Beer time right?
Cheers man...Yep...Beer O'clock.
Link to the video of "smashing out the water pump"??? Mine is stuck! Have smashed out the centre but now cant get the rest out 😫
You just have to keep chipping away at it.
Gday mate, good video. I am changing a head gasket on holden viva which looks similar. Question is, do I have to have the engine in a certain position before I mark the gears? Top dead centre or something like that? cheers.
Yes it's best to have the engine at TDC#1..There are marks that indicate that position on the crank gear and on the cam gears...If you can't find them you should google an image for their position...I'd also suggest changing the water pump and the timing belt and associated pulleys and tensioner...Good luck with it mate.
@@ziggassedup Awesome, Thank you for your speedy reply, Cheers for that.
I am stuck trying to get the timing belt cover off, does the harmonic balancer need to come off? It is caught at the bottom.
@@DallasD2.0 yes the balancer has to come off...remove the pulley bolts there are some bolts that hold the cover on and some clips.
@@ziggassedup thanks again mate, yer got the bolts out of the cover. I just noticed that i think the timing pullies have to come off to get the backing cover off to remove the head. These cars are a maze of things bolted together. Lol, going crazy atm.
good instruction Zig. Thanks.
Thanks Mike.
G'day Zig, do you sell the parts for this repair as a kit? And i'm guessing you run/work for a business in Sydney somewhere? No need to divulge on YT where that is, but i do have one of these treasures that was given to my daughter from her grandparents, and it needs the water pump and timing belt done.
G'day Keith...I perchase the kit from a spare parts supplier...If you have a Bursons Auto parts near you they will have all you need...Cheers mate and good luck with it...Oh and I'm in Sydney's west.
Hi i have a Z18XE Astra and the intake cam is out of TDC, possibly whilst removing the cylinder head.......is there an easy way to correct it.
THANKS FOR THE POST... IS IWELL DONE
.
Yes...There are slots in the rear of the cams...Both cam slots should line up horizontally to the back of the cylinder head surface...If you have a metal strip like a file that fits in that slot it will lock the cams in TDC #1...Also if you have not removed the cam gears the alignment dots on the gears should line up as seen in the beginning...If you have removed the gears then use the metal strip to align the cams and then position the gears with the crank at TDC and the cam gears to the said marks when the belt goes on...Good luck and thanks.
Gday again, Thanks again for the good advice it helped me heaps. I finally got the head of and it has been machined etc. I was wondering if you could tell me where a good place to download a service manual? Is there an online site where mechanics use?
Try these guys. www.workshopservicemanual.com/m006392-holden-astra.html
@@ziggassedup Thank you very much, I really appreciate your help. Cheers.
What tools and socket sizes did you use?
You'll need a set of TORX sockets and a set of metric wrenches.
Would $1000 be an acceptable quote to do this job? Pump, timing belt, tensioner, idlers, drive belt and drive belt tensioner?
Yep.😆
@@ziggassedup thank you, I think 😂
@@Dapitchfork That's a bit more than I charge for parts and labour...$150 for a belt kit...$75 for a pump...$45 for a belt...$30 for coolant..About 5 hours in time @ $110/ph if the water pump comes out easy and you'll have made good profit...Cheers.
The first time you did it,when you had to smash the water pump to pieces because it wouldnt come out, how did you do it?
I just smashed it with a hammer and a chisel.
@@ziggassedup ok will buy a chisel, thanks bro
My dad's Holden viva has started losing coolant . Got a good feeling this is the problem.
If it's leaking at that end of the engine it's a good chance the pump is leaking but there is also a hose at the rear of the block that feeds the pump tat can leak also so have a look at that too.
Useful video for my Tigra, I believe its the same engine...
Much of a muchness.
Gday mate, any advice, the notes that came with the head gasket kit are different torque settings to my service manual. The notes say 25nm then +65 +65 +65 and service manual says 25nm +90 +90 +90. Not to sure which one to use. The sequence is also different, just opposite side but still from the center out.
I expect the gasket is non genuine so I suggest that you use the settings that came with the gasket...You have new bolts too I hope.
@@ziggassedup yep I have new bolt. Cheers for that, really appreciate your help.
Hi Zig. Got a question for you, mr wisdom... my vz 6.0 needs a bigger alternator i have decided, do you have any idea where to start? does the new 6.2 have a bigger amperage, if they do will they fit my car?
G'day Paul...Here's what I've found over the years...6.0's and 6.2's don't like aftermarket alternators so if I have to change one I buy a new one from Holden...They're not cheap but it's the best way to go...I hope that helps mate.
hey mate, I worked on my astra and engine seems to have lost compression. OBD shows P0100 MAF, P0110 Air Intake Temp, P0340 Cam position sensor A circuit, P0101 MAF performance problem.
its Astra TS with Z18XE engine.
I did mark timing sprockets as shown, only wsnt marked was the crank sproket and also after fitting new belt I turned crank gear to TDC.
You reckon Crank sensor needs changed now or something else ?
thanks :)
When it's on TDC#1 are the cam marks in the correct position.?
I never get to see this new stuff anymore. I'm a has-been now. Did Holden sell out to the Japanese like GM did?
The international market turned the heads of the directors I guess Steve...There will be Holden dealerships who sell cars with the Holden badge but they're not a true Aussie Holden.
Thank you liviu2004 & Dddd Cccc. For tensioner different positions, see 3:10 & 16:00. Details
I wouldn't try fixing these modern engines It would never run again if I did
You could do it bud.
Super friend.
Thank you.
+ZIGgassedUP
Greetings
after replacing the timing belt and replacing cam position sensor due to a scan error wiring was exposed. the engine is running rough. crank sensor is fine any ideas how to fix this issue
Are you saying the engine ran fine until you changed the belt.?Do you still have the code.?...It may pay to recheck the cam timing.
@@ziggassedup thanks for the reply turns out timing was all good but some how the vacuum hose from the throttle body come off that hooks up to the sensor near the air filter. After all that car runs well again.
i think my belt have jumped a notch or 2 how do i check that and how to i go about changing the belt then?
There are plenty of guides on the interwebs or you could buy a repair manual.
i know this video is old but i have to tell you, that was an astra H not a G
Did I specify.?..I can't remember...Cheers mate.
Hi there Zig, Where are you based in Australia?
Sydney
Hey anyone know if the timing belt snaps in one of these engines, the valves and internals are cooked? I know some engines are ok after a snapped timing belt, cheers
Yep...Break a belt and bend the valves...May be punch a hole in a piston or bend a rod too.
Do these bend the valves if they snap?
Most likely.
How can I stop the engine turning to remove crankshaft pulley?
The pulley or the pulley bolt.?..I use an impact gun...There is a special kit to do this job but you don't need it.
@@ziggassedup I can't get the pulley bolt out?
The crank is just turning. Do I turn it clockwise or anti?
Anti clockwise...If you can put a breaker bar on the crank bolt and rest it onto a secure section of chassis then if you unplug the coils you can click the starter over untill it breaks the bolt loose but be sure to set the engine to TDC before you remove anything after that....
@@ziggassedup thanks for help last night I got it off. How did u do the tension pulley for the timing belt? It's just not budging.
when and where did you put water back in?
In the coolant header tank and after all the hoses were reconnected.
thanx
A breeze compared to the last one!
Thankfully Tom.
How long does it take to change?
About 3 hours.
so nice
Thank you.
A breeze compared to the Z18XER engine with the finicky friggin CAM phasers.
thanks
Cheers Ron.
Yay! Out in one piece!
Yay in deed Wendell.
You definitely dont need cam tools???
I used no cam or crank locking devices.
Did you set timing beafore or after taking harmonic balancer off? Cheers mate!
@@mattlome9796 Yes...TDC#1.
Okay thanks mate. One more question just having trouble holding the cams in postion while i loosen harmolic bolt how do i keep it all its same position?
@@mattlome9796 You can loosen the bolt and time it again...There are more timing marks inside the cover...Remove the balancer and covers and use the balancer bolt to turn the engine to the correct position...I'm sure there is something in the vid showing where the marks should be before removing the old belt.
Cool
Cheers Ron.
imagine thinking these are "holdens"
The beginning of the end.
nice
Thank you.
What is the engine number of Chery a5 Pelt 2012 .. and How many kilos should be changed ..and thank you