Another fascinating video. I am all ready to go with my white light film filter on an 8" SCT. practiced a bit and feel comfortable and safe with the setup. Unfortunately, the one thing that I forgot to practice is weather control. A day-long soak expected in the Detroit area tomorrow. :(
Oh thank you so much for this video. Haven’t shot anything solar related in years, so excited to finally afford the equipment I need to shoot the eclipse in style next month.
The 174mm is often paired with quarks due to the 4.2x built in barlow, this cameras sensor size works well in over f30. Making it a good match for the quark, due to its larger sized pixels. A chip with smaller pixel size will perform better in white light filters in most cases. IE a full disk image at a wider focal length.
First time watch the channel, made sure to subscribe. Excellent video! I've been WL observing for quite a while using a 2" Lunt Herschel wedge with 70, 102, & 125mm refractors (AT70ED, AT102EDL, & AT125EDL) and have just got my first H-alpha scope (LS50THa) that I plan to dip my toes into Hα spectrum and learn with. I thought about getting my start in H-alpha with a PST or LS40, but I didn't want a beginner instrument that I'd want to upgrade fairly quickly. I decided to get the LS50 since it was a pressure tuned system that I can upgrade to a FT focuser & double stack later down the road. This should make a great starter scope that has some room to grow as I advance in the "Light Side" of our hobby. As we're all aware of, hydrogen alpha isn’t cheap(!!) and although I'd love to have started with an 80 or 100mm DS unit, I just couldn't swing it. Even the LS60 was twice the cost (plus I'm not a big fan of Lunt's current MT series). Hopefully this little 2" pressure tuned scope should be enough to learn & grow with...
Great video. This information is 95% new to me as I am not a solar photographer. I am thinking of imaging the upcoming total eclipse however. Your explanation and delivery were remarkably clear and systematic. I feel I understand the different types of filters, the frequencies of light involved, and what solar features each enhances the viewing of. I do wonder how it is that the makers of filters can create filters directed to specific light frequencies.
Hello, thank you for very informative video, I have a couple of questions though. 1 - is there any reflector aperture limitation for using white light baader film filter? I saw a lotof examples where people who own 8" SCT or CC telescopes use covers with the eccentric sub-aperture hole with the baader solar foil on it, why not full aperture? 2 - will it work, if I use the baader foil at the front of my CC 8" reflector, and the H-alpha filter on the eyepiece side (not etalon, just a glass filter with dielectric coating)? will I be able to see any prominences? Thank you again for sharing your knowledge and experience!
Best explanation about Sun observation that i ever seen, many thanks for that :) Just one curiosity, is there any way to with a non solar telescope, to also see via h alpha? Maybe using some sort of filter in the front of telescope aparture or in the eyepiece? (i have a reflector one).. im asking cause did not find anything selling on internet about this :)
You really should use an ERF on the front of the scope [refractor] if you are using a Herschel wedge (and UV/IR cut and solar continuum filters in place). Not doing so will allow heat build up inside the scope and can even fracture/crack lens elements.
I've never used an ERF with my 2" Lunt Herschel wedge used on 70, 102, & 125mm refractors. Even with my 5" class refractor, the metal heat sink never gets more than warm to the touch and the OTA, lens cell, and focuser don't get above the ambient outdoor temperatures.
Excellent video, thanks for posting this. Can an IR cut filter be used in place of a hydrogen a filter to view prominences and other details or do the additional bands in the 400-600 range(that IR cut filters let through) need to be filtered out to see these features?
Excellent and verry informative video related to different layers of the sun. Can you give more background or references related to Herschel prisms in combination with other filters like continuum filers or polarizing filters - thanks in advance !
I'm interested to know the cheapest way to get the best image (ok...aren't we all?)... What do you think about getting a cheap Newtonian. Remove the alumination/reflexion coating from the secondary or the primari or both. It should remove 99.999999% of light. Then you can use a H alpha filter on the eyepiece?
Bang up job summarising! I am so bummed - you never showed any h alpha filters for reflectors - does this mean you can use it only if you have a solar telescope or an existing refractor? :(
interesting. I have a couple questions. 1) I have an Allsky camera that has been up for over two years constantly, so its obvious that a filter is needed only above a certain focal length. The Allsky has a 170 degree field of view (1.8mm if I recall) and no damage has occurred to the camera sensor. At what focal length do you think a solar filter become needed to avoid damaging the camera. 2) I also have a full spectrum camera and infrared filters that I use for dedicated IR photography. You mentioned the Ha filter being about 650nm. The IR filter for 650nm cuts all frequencies below that but but allows frequencies above. Do you think that would work to give a Ha image of the sun? It'd be nice to have two options for those filters.
1.) A solar filter is required at all times when you're working with the Sun, regardless of focal length. The sunlight becomes the most dangerous at the focal point, i.e. the point where the light is in focus after you adjusted the focus ring or knob. This is why regardless of what you point at the Sun (a telescope, a camera, your own eyes), always use the proper solar protection at all times before viewing and/or imaging the Sun. 2.) The Ha emission is seen at 650nm. However, the IR filters you're describing probably won't work for solar imaging. Do you use them for nighttime astrophotography? If so, you should never use a filter that's designed for the nighttime for solar imaging. For Ha solar imaging, as I mentioned in the video, the filters that are used have a very narrow bandpass measured in angstroms. This is why Ha imaging is usually done with a dedicated Ha telescope or the Daystar Quark. This is because a Ha etalon and solar blocking filters are needed for safe viewing and imaging. If you're using a camera with a lens, I would recommend looking at the Daystar Quark, as they have a quark design that attaches between the lens and the camera body, and the etalon and blocking filters are built into the device. Otherwise, you'll have to use a dedicated Ha telescope. To my knowledge, these are the two proven and safest options to use for Ha observing and imaging as I presented in this video.
Could you clarify if intend to use my refractor to photograph Halpha I could use the Daystar Quark at the diagonal. What is not clear for me is if I need any other filter in front of the telescope. They it was explanied I could just by the Quark and put it at the rear of the telescope and than put a camera there. Is that correct?
Active areas include sunspots (author wasn't very clear on this) and faculas in the photosphere. Plages are chromospheric counterparts of areas with facules.
If the image is still too bright for you, try adding a thread-on neutral density filter. This is what I do for my white light imaging. However, to get the best details possible, you'll wan to photograph the Sun when the seeing conditions are good. You can have the best equipment possible, but it won't matter if the seeing is poor.
I don't have much experience using reflectors. However, after doing some additional research, Baader Planetarium offers a threaded CaK filter, and it requires a White Light film in front of the aperture. So it looks like it should work in that regard. If you're using a refractor, you can't combine the filters, so you'll have to use a CaK module or a CaK quark by itself. Mirror based telescopes like reflectors and cassegrains can be a bit unwieldy when working with the Sun, as if you use the wrong filters or install them incorrectly, you can inadvertently melt the housing of the secondary mirror off of the telescope from the focused sunlight. So be sure to follow the instructions from the manufacturer to ensure your safety.
When it comes to white light filters Like that made by Thousand oaks, which filter material is the one that DOES NOT produce that fuzzy halo around the sun? I have a solar filter I made for the 2017 eclipse and that material is thicker than material that I got this time. The one this time produces that fuzzy halo. I am not sure but is it "solarlite" or the "Black Polymer" that does not do that? Note the last material I got is thicker and not as flexible as this I got this time. Although they look the same silver on one side and black on the other.
Yes, you should be able to see granules with a solar film or glass filter. I've heard they show up the best with a Herschel Wedge though. But you'll need a medium or large sized aperture to see them clearer.
Hello, I'm curious about using the H-Alpha 6nm filter to photograph the sun. I own a Canon EOS R5 and the RF 100-400 f/5.6-8. I was thinking of using the 6nm filter in the R5 body and putting a 20-stop ND filter in front of the lens. Would that work?
Hi Peter, unfortunately that H-alpha filter won't work with imaging the Sun. The H-alpha etalon used to image the Sun is measured in angstroms, and a H-alpha nighttime filter measured in nanometers won't be sufficient enough, as it's not designed for solar imaging. If you want to image the Sun with your mirrorless camera and camera lens, then I would suggest using the camera quark from Daystar. The device goes in-between the camera body and the lens and functions similarly to the quark used for telescopes. It may be a bit pricey depending on your budget, but it's the safest way to do H-alpha imaging with a mirrorless camera and camera lens that I know of.
Thank you! I have my Lunt LS80MT for solar purposes, so I don't use my EdgeHD 9.25. I use the ZWO ASI 174 MM for solar imaging. If you're trying to use a SCT for solar purposes, you'll have to use a front mounting white light filter that can be either film or glass.
@@rizzmo8451 No sir. The Ha filter used in deep sky imaging will absolutely not work when imaging or viewing the sun. Please don't try it. Deep sky Ha filters allow too much solar energy to pass through. You will damage your camera and possibly permanently blind yourself
Nice informative article, i been making videos with my old DLSR cannon camera 📷 , im trying to purchase Hydrogen alha filter for the next solar eclipse. It will be great idea ? Or anyone used one yet infront of the camera.
If you're using a DSLR camera with a camera lens, then it's best that you use a white light film or glass filter in front of the lens. Hydrogen alpha imaging of the Sun is usually done with a dedicated telescope, and you can use your DSLR camera with the telescope. I should also state that you should NEVER use a hydrogen alpha filter that's designed for nighttime photography, as the bandpass isn't narrow enough and the Sun's rays will damage the filter as well as your camera.
@@AstroParkAstrophotographythanks. Do you know if it’s possible to combine a white light filter and a hydrogen alpha filter? I too want to photograph the upcoming eclipse, but I don’t have a telescope.
@@JohnDoukasPhotography The short answer is no. A white light filter passes everything from about 400 to 700 nm wavelength (while also cutting the light by a factor of ~10,000). The Ha (alpha) filter just passes the Ha wavelength at 656 nm and a tiny bit of light at nearby frequencies. As kind of shown in the video, the Ha filter / "etalon" is a big thing several inches long that goes at the rear of the telescope.
White light matter... but it's not as beautiful as Hydrogen alpha light. This is just a silly comment to boost the YT algo. PLEASE, make your own just as a sign of respect for this excellent AstroPark channel.
It is an informative video considering the equipment, but a bit misleading. I don't understand why you missed the opportunity to teach people Sun is really not yellow. It's a white body, it has no hue and it's in fact how we define white light. First filters you showed are obviously not white light filters - they gobble up violet and blue and therefore make our star have a false yellow-orange hue. They also remove a lot of the details considering faculas. In true white light, with a neutral density filter, faculas are easy to see. The best neutral density filter out there, absolutely superior to silly plastic polymer filters and cheap glass stuff usually sold by American companies, is Baader Astrosolar. It comes as optical density 5.0 for observation, and 3.8 for imaging. You also showed hydrogen-alpha image colorized into yellow-orange. A hydrogen-alpha filter is extremely monochromatic, it passes a fraction of nanometre bandwidth of red light. Sun looks either red or pink (if light is too bright) to the observer. Colorizing it into yellow-orange just supports the idea that you think Sun looks like fire, which it does not. Its surface is very hot gas (not plasma, too cold for that!), so hot that it glows with white incandescence. This is not whitebess because of insane brightness, but actual literal white because its temperature is almost 5800 K. If Sun was yellow, Moon would look yellow, we would have no violet color on Earth, possibly not blue skies, either. It would all look very similar to surface of Venus in terms of illumination. I've noticed the discrepancy between USA and rest of the world. It's like there in USA exists a very strong push to show Sun as fiery and yellow for some reason and when confronted with it, people usually get angry because it breaks their minds. It's ridiculous. Again, good video, but I don't understand the need to present this topic like the viewers are toddlers with crayons. Nothing is lost by presenting facts, it can only be gained.
This is an awesome video, thank you. Too late for me to get anything for this year's eclipse but I'll get some filters next year.
Another fascinating video. I am all ready to go with my white light film filter on an 8" SCT. practiced a bit and feel comfortable and safe with the setup. Unfortunately, the one thing that I forgot to practice is weather control. A day-long soak expected in the Detroit area tomorrow. :(
Yeah, I'm experiencing poor weather as well in Maryland. Hopefully things will be better for the total solar eclipse next year in April.
Very informative and well done - for my DSLR and zoom lens I think I'll then stick with the 100000 ND filter which I guess is white light. Thanks!
Thank you! Just be sure that the filter you decide to use is solar certified and you should be good to go.
Oh thank you so much for this video. Haven’t shot anything solar related in years, so excited to finally afford the equipment I need to shoot the eclipse in style next month.
as usual you taught me something new..awesome....
I really enjoyed your video. Great information
Best video on the topic! Thanks a lot for that!
My favorite filter is the white light filter. Because it's the only one I have. Lol. Great video.
The 174mm is often paired with quarks due to the 4.2x built in barlow, this cameras sensor size works well in over f30. Making it a good match for the quark, due to its larger sized pixels. A chip with smaller pixel size will perform better in white light filters in most cases. IE a full disk image at a wider focal length.
Great explanation of the sun surface and filters! Thanks!
First time watch the channel, made sure to subscribe. Excellent video!
I've been WL observing for quite a while using a 2" Lunt Herschel wedge with 70, 102, & 125mm refractors (AT70ED, AT102EDL, & AT125EDL) and have just got my first H-alpha scope (LS50THa) that I plan to dip my toes into Hα spectrum and learn with.
I thought about getting my start in H-alpha with a PST or LS40, but I didn't want a beginner instrument that I'd want to upgrade fairly quickly. I decided to get the LS50 since it was a pressure tuned system that I can upgrade to a FT focuser & double stack later down the road. This should make a great starter scope that has some room to grow as I advance in the "Light Side" of our hobby.
As we're all aware of, hydrogen alpha isn’t cheap(!!) and although I'd love to have started with an 80 or 100mm DS unit, I just couldn't swing it. Even the LS60 was twice the cost (plus I'm not a big fan of Lunt's current MT series). Hopefully this little 2" pressure tuned scope should be enough to learn & grow with...
Great video. This information is 95% new to me as I am not a solar photographer. I am thinking of imaging the upcoming total eclipse however.
Your explanation and delivery were remarkably clear and systematic. I feel I understand the different types of filters, the frequencies of light involved, and what solar features each enhances the viewing of. I do wonder how it is that the makers of filters can create filters directed to specific light frequencies.
Hello, thank you for very informative video, I have a couple of questions though.
1 - is there any reflector aperture limitation for using white light baader film filter? I saw a lotof examples where people who own 8" SCT or CC telescopes use covers with the eccentric sub-aperture hole with the baader solar foil on it, why not full aperture?
2 - will it work, if I use the baader foil at the front of my CC 8" reflector, and the H-alpha filter on the eyepiece side (not etalon, just a glass filter with dielectric coating)? will I be able to see any prominences?
Thank you again for sharing your knowledge and experience!
Best explanation about Sun observation that i ever seen, many thanks for that :)
Just one curiosity, is there any way to with a non solar telescope, to also see via h alpha? Maybe using some sort of filter in the front of telescope aparture or in the eyepiece? (i have a reflector one).. im asking cause did not find anything selling on internet about this :)
It's a great video, very educational. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
You really should use an ERF on the front of the scope [refractor] if you are using a Herschel wedge (and UV/IR cut and solar continuum filters in place). Not doing so will allow heat build up inside the scope and can even fracture/crack lens elements.
I've never used an ERF with my 2" Lunt Herschel wedge used on 70, 102, & 125mm refractors. Even with my 5" class refractor, the metal heat sink never gets more than warm to the touch and the OTA, lens cell, and focuser don't get above the ambient outdoor temperatures.
@@Astro_Ape you should. But hey, it's your scopes and $$$.
Excellent video, thanks for posting this. Can an IR cut filter be used in place of a hydrogen a filter to view prominences and other details or do the additional bands in the 400-600 range(that IR cut filters let through) need to be filtered out to see these features?
Very helpful clear and informative description. Cheers !
Excellent and verry informative video related to different layers of the sun. Can you give more background or references related to Herschel prisms in combination with other filters like continuum filers or polarizing filters - thanks in advance !
I'm interested to know the cheapest way to get the best image (ok...aren't we all?)...
What do you think about getting a cheap Newtonian. Remove the alumination/reflexion coating from the secondary or the primari or both. It should remove 99.999999% of light. Then you can use a H alpha filter on the eyepiece?
Bang up job summarising! I am so bummed - you never showed any h alpha filters for reflectors - does this mean you can use it only if you have a solar telescope or an existing refractor? :(
Excellent video!
interesting. I have a couple questions.
1) I have an Allsky camera that has been up for over two years constantly, so its obvious that a filter is needed only above a certain focal length. The Allsky has a 170 degree field of view (1.8mm if I recall) and no damage has occurred to the camera sensor. At what focal length do you think a solar filter become needed to avoid damaging the camera.
2) I also have a full spectrum camera and infrared filters that I use for dedicated IR photography. You mentioned the Ha filter being about 650nm. The IR filter for 650nm cuts all frequencies below that but but allows frequencies above. Do you think that would work to give a Ha image of the sun? It'd be nice to have two options for those filters.
1.) A solar filter is required at all times when you're working with the Sun, regardless of focal length. The sunlight becomes the most dangerous at the focal point, i.e. the point where the light is in focus after you adjusted the focus ring or knob. This is why regardless of what you point at the Sun (a telescope, a camera, your own eyes), always use the proper solar protection at all times before viewing and/or imaging the Sun.
2.) The Ha emission is seen at 650nm. However, the IR filters you're describing probably won't work for solar imaging. Do you use them for nighttime astrophotography? If so, you should never use a filter that's designed for the nighttime for solar imaging. For Ha solar imaging, as I mentioned in the video, the filters that are used have a very narrow bandpass measured in angstroms. This is why Ha imaging is usually done with a dedicated Ha telescope or the Daystar Quark. This is because a Ha etalon and solar blocking filters are needed for safe viewing and imaging. If you're using a camera with a lens, I would recommend looking at the Daystar Quark, as they have a quark design that attaches between the lens and the camera body, and the etalon and blocking filters are built into the device. Otherwise, you'll have to use a dedicated Ha telescope. To my knowledge, these are the two proven and safest options to use for Ha observing and imaging as I presented in this video.
Could you clarify if intend to use my refractor to photograph Halpha I could use the Daystar Quark at the diagonal. What is not clear for me is if I need any other filter in front of the telescope. They it was explanied I could just by the Quark and put it at the rear of the telescope and than put a camera there. Is that correct?
Excellent video. What is the difference between active areas and Plage areas?
Active areas include sunspots (author wasn't very clear on this) and faculas in the photosphere. Plages are chromospheric counterparts of areas with facules.
No mention of D-ERF? darn
Very good video, I liked the explanations
Great video
I have a Celestron 8SE, I just started photographing with an Eclipsemart solar filter. What could I add to improve the detail?
If the image is still too bright for you, try adding a thread-on neutral density filter. This is what I do for my white light imaging. However, to get the best details possible, you'll wan to photograph the Sun when the seeing conditions are good. You can have the best equipment possible, but it won't matter if the seeing is poor.
Can solar filters be combined on a reflector? White light film on the front and a threaded Ca-K filter?
I don't have much experience using reflectors. However, after doing some additional research, Baader Planetarium offers a threaded CaK filter, and it requires a White Light film in front of the aperture. So it looks like it should work in that regard. If you're using a refractor, you can't combine the filters, so you'll have to use a CaK module or a CaK quark by itself.
Mirror based telescopes like reflectors and cassegrains can be a bit unwieldy when working with the Sun, as if you use the wrong filters or install them incorrectly, you can inadvertently melt the housing of the secondary mirror off of the telescope from the focused sunlight. So be sure to follow the instructions from the manufacturer to ensure your safety.
Good Instruction Job!
super.....👍👍👍
When it comes to white light filters Like that made by Thousand oaks, which filter material is the one that DOES NOT produce that fuzzy halo around the sun? I have a solar filter I made for the 2017 eclipse and that material is thicker than material that I got this time. The one this time produces that fuzzy halo. I am not sure but is it "solarlite" or the "Black Polymer" that does not do that? Note the last material I got is thicker and not as flexible as this I got this time. Although they look the same silver on one side and black on the other.
ty for this !!
Can you actually see granules with solar film?
Yes, you should be able to see granules with a solar film or glass filter. I've heard they show up the best with a Herschel Wedge though. But you'll need a medium or large sized aperture to see them clearer.
Hello,
I'm curious about using the H-Alpha 6nm filter to photograph the sun. I own a Canon EOS R5 and the RF 100-400 f/5.6-8. I was thinking of using the 6nm filter in the R5 body and putting a 20-stop ND filter in front of the lens. Would that work?
Hi Peter, unfortunately that H-alpha filter won't work with imaging the Sun. The H-alpha etalon used to image the Sun is measured in angstroms, and a H-alpha nighttime filter measured in nanometers won't be sufficient enough, as it's not designed for solar imaging.
If you want to image the Sun with your mirrorless camera and camera lens, then I would suggest using the camera quark from Daystar. The device goes in-between the camera body and the lens and functions similarly to the quark used for telescopes. It may be a bit pricey depending on your budget, but it's the safest way to do H-alpha imaging with a mirrorless camera and camera lens that I know of.
Great video, do you use you edge hd 9.25 for solar? If so, what camera and equipment do you use for white light images?
Thank you! I have my Lunt LS80MT for solar purposes, so I don't use my EdgeHD 9.25. I use the ZWO ASI 174 MM for solar imaging. If you're trying to use a SCT for solar purposes, you'll have to use a front mounting white light filter that can be either film or glass.
@@AstroParkAstrophotographythere a H(A) filters for daytime? So I can’t just buy a regular H(A) filter and use it combined with my solar filter?
@@rizzmo8451 No sir. The Ha filter used in deep sky imaging will absolutely not work when imaging or viewing the sun. Please don't try it. Deep sky Ha filters allow too much solar energy to pass through. You will damage your camera and possibly permanently blind yourself
Nice informative article, i been making videos with my old DLSR cannon camera 📷 , im trying to purchase Hydrogen alha filter for the next solar eclipse. It will be great idea ? Or anyone used one yet infront of the camera.
If you're using a DSLR camera with a camera lens, then it's best that you use a white light film or glass filter in front of the lens. Hydrogen alpha imaging of the Sun is usually done with a dedicated telescope, and you can use your DSLR camera with the telescope. I should also state that you should NEVER use a hydrogen alpha filter that's designed for nighttime photography, as the bandpass isn't narrow enough and the Sun's rays will damage the filter as well as your camera.
@@AstroParkAstrophotographythanks. Do you know if it’s possible to combine a white light filter and a hydrogen alpha filter? I too want to photograph the upcoming eclipse, but I don’t have a telescope.
@@JohnDoukasPhotography The short answer is no. A white light filter passes everything from about 400 to 700 nm wavelength (while also cutting the light by a factor of ~10,000). The Ha (alpha) filter just passes the Ha wavelength at 656 nm and a tiny bit of light at nearby frequencies.
As kind of shown in the video, the Ha filter / "etalon" is a big thing several inches long that goes at the rear of the telescope.
White light matter... but it's not as beautiful as Hydrogen alpha light.
This is just a silly comment to boost the YT algo. PLEASE, make your own just as a sign of respect for this excellent AstroPark channel.
It is an informative video considering the equipment, but a bit misleading. I don't understand why you missed the opportunity to teach people Sun is really not yellow. It's a white body, it has no hue and it's in fact how we define white light.
First filters you showed are obviously not white light filters - they gobble up violet and blue and therefore make our star have a false yellow-orange hue. They also remove a lot of the details considering faculas. In true white light, with a neutral density filter, faculas are easy to see.
The best neutral density filter out there, absolutely superior to silly plastic polymer filters and cheap glass stuff usually sold by American companies, is Baader Astrosolar. It comes as optical density 5.0 for observation, and 3.8 for imaging.
You also showed hydrogen-alpha image colorized into yellow-orange. A hydrogen-alpha filter is extremely monochromatic, it passes a fraction of nanometre bandwidth of red light. Sun looks either red or pink (if light is too bright) to the observer. Colorizing it into yellow-orange just supports the idea that you think Sun looks like fire, which it does not. Its surface is very hot gas (not plasma, too cold for that!), so hot that it glows with white incandescence. This is not whitebess because of insane brightness, but actual literal white because its temperature is almost 5800 K.
If Sun was yellow, Moon would look yellow, we would have no violet color on Earth, possibly not blue skies, either. It would all look very similar to surface of Venus in terms of illumination.
I've noticed the discrepancy between USA and rest of the world. It's like there in USA exists a very strong push to show Sun as fiery and yellow for some reason and when confronted with it, people usually get angry because it breaks their minds. It's ridiculous.
Again, good video, but I don't understand the need to present this topic like the viewers are toddlers with crayons. Nothing is lost by presenting facts, it can only be gained.
I use my Herschel wedge so often that I tend to think of the sun as green 😆
Well i already found a mew hobby with solar glasses ISO certified
Speak slower please.
Noted. Thanks for your feedback.
Although I am French I was able to follow.