Al Youngwerth and his creative skills many years later. I ran his clutches on a 2000 YZF. Worked great even back then. Thanks for the display of the build. Interesting to see the difference in the discs now. Never remember the waves like these. Oil rejection or control of some form?
Oil pickup probably. Keep it cooler. They also manufacture lots of high oil flow billet parts and the high volume cover... all of which are included in the RadiusCX kits. Their friction plates are half as thick as the Japanese manufacturers OEM plates (same as new KTM) so they can get in an extra plate into the pack. This 4.0 disc has roller bearings instead of sliding pucks to make it engage more smoothly. Can def tell the difference. 100% stock lever feel, or easier. Figured someone with the handle CncObsession would appreciate the details 😆
You have excellent vids John, thank you. So one thing I wanted to point out, in my auto clutch instructions it states to measure the EXP along with all of the clutch plates and clutch disks, then you go to the Bellevue washer install chart to locate the exact number to place the bolts. I always use the number 2 hole slots but on the last auto clutch I installed it measured to place the bolts in the number 1 slot. My question to you, did your instructions also call for this measurement to locate the correct holes for the bolts? Mahalo
I remember my instructions saying holes II, but last time I called Rekluse for a tech question the tech told me on my 450 they usually recommend holes III. At the time I called I felt like the clutch was a little too soft, but that's not what I called them about or mentioned. Last Friday I did put it in holes III and it felt great (ie.. I didn't notice the soft feeling). I imagine measuring is ultimately the correct way (covering their butt for longevity), but I could see applications like hard enduro or something where seat of the pants tuning and the softer spring settings could potentially give a traction advantage and motocross you'd go the opposite way. I don't run the stock EXP disk springs either. I tune my clutch so it feels/rides like manual but still wont stall with a full brake lock up. If anyone rode my 450 I would challenge them to even know there was a Rekluse in it. This is part of the reason keyboard warriors who hate Rekluse autos annoy me so much. They have zero clue how the things work and probably rode ONE poorly set up bike and started passing judgement. I believe more Pros run them than people want to believe. I imagine Rekluse knows/can tune them perfectly for a rider far better than me 🤣
@@JohnHowerton137 I could not have said it better when you talk about the importance of tuning the EXP and the keyboard warriors that go off on tangents with no knowledge! I've been working on bikes for 40 years but just started to really mess with the Rekluse. I tune my EXP's to lock up as soon as possible (meaning close to idle when using the engine brake, then when at a stop, lock up as soon as you touch the throttle with no slippage). So I'm interested in what you're saying about where to place the bolts (in which slot). Are you saying in the number 1 slot it's more of a hard enduro setting and 3 is more Moto? I want to make sure I'm getting the best clutch performance possible, even though I am running an auto clutch. As you know best, the clutch is still a weapon even with the auto clutch. I ride long nasty trails with a lot of hard enduro spots and by the end of the ride you're just worn to the edge. A few expert riders I ride with at times showed up with auto clutches and I was extremely impressed on what they could do, so that's ultimately why I'm giving it a go. I want to stay with it and really get used to the system and how I can take advantage of the auto clutch. Anyway, any insight into the number slots are greatly appreciated! Thanks for the excellent information John!
Sorry, just seeing this in this dumbass UA-cam (Creator) comment system! Yes, the notches are the spring tension, 1 being the softest. I have no idea how much that setting would affect clutch slip/wear, so test at your own rick unless you can find some more information somewhere. Hopefully you found a sweet tune. Mine is perfect. Can’t really even tell it’s in the bike.
Complicated? Extremely simple. All the plates are all the same thickness, Belleville spring, all access through one simple outside cover. The most complicated thing is bleeding the clutch, but even that is really simple if you know the steps. Even the EXP disc adjustment is pretty straight forward if you understand the concepts.
I’ve been watching your videos for years and just realized I never subscribed but have now. Best 690 videos on UA-cam.
Thanks a bunch man. Love the 690 so there should be more videos in the future 💪
Al Youngwerth and his creative skills many years later. I ran his clutches on a 2000 YZF. Worked great even back then.
Thanks for the display of the build.
Interesting to see the difference in the discs now.
Never remember the waves like these. Oil rejection or control of some form?
Oil pickup probably. Keep it cooler. They also manufacture lots of high oil flow billet parts and the high volume cover... all of which are included in the RadiusCX kits. Their friction plates are half as thick as the Japanese manufacturers OEM plates (same as new KTM) so they can get in an extra plate into the pack. This 4.0 disc has roller bearings instead of sliding pucks to make it engage more smoothly. Can def tell the difference. 100% stock lever feel, or easier.
Figured someone with the handle CncObsession would appreciate the details 😆
You have excellent vids John, thank you. So one thing I wanted to point out, in my auto clutch instructions it states to measure the EXP along with all of the clutch plates and clutch disks, then you go to the Bellevue washer install chart to locate the exact number to place the bolts. I always use the number 2 hole slots but on the last auto clutch I installed it measured to place the bolts in the number 1 slot. My question to you, did your instructions also call for this measurement to locate the correct holes for the bolts? Mahalo
I remember my instructions saying holes II, but last time I called Rekluse for a tech question the tech told me on my 450 they usually recommend holes III. At the time I called I felt like the clutch was a little too soft, but that's not what I called them about or mentioned. Last Friday I did put it in holes III and it felt great (ie.. I didn't notice the soft feeling).
I imagine measuring is ultimately the correct way (covering their butt for longevity), but I could see applications like hard enduro or something where seat of the pants tuning and the softer spring settings could potentially give a traction advantage and motocross you'd go the opposite way.
I don't run the stock EXP disk springs either. I tune my clutch so it feels/rides like manual but still wont stall with a full brake lock up. If anyone rode my 450 I would challenge them to even know there was a Rekluse in it. This is part of the reason keyboard warriors who hate Rekluse autos annoy me so much. They have zero clue how the things work and probably rode ONE poorly set up bike and started passing judgement. I believe more Pros run them than people want to believe. I imagine Rekluse knows/can tune them perfectly for a rider far better than me 🤣
@@JohnHowerton137 I could not have said it better when you talk about the importance of tuning the EXP and the keyboard warriors that go off on tangents with no knowledge! I've been working on bikes for 40 years but just started to really mess with the Rekluse. I tune my EXP's to lock up as soon as possible (meaning close to idle when using the engine brake, then when at a stop, lock up as soon as you touch the throttle with no slippage). So I'm interested in what you're saying about where to place the bolts (in which slot). Are you saying in the number 1 slot it's more of a hard enduro setting and 3 is more Moto? I want to make sure I'm getting the best clutch performance possible, even though I am running an auto clutch. As you know best, the clutch is still a weapon even with the auto clutch. I ride long nasty trails with a lot of hard enduro spots and by the end of the ride you're just worn to the edge. A few expert riders I ride with at times showed up with auto clutches and I was extremely impressed on what they could do, so that's ultimately why I'm giving it a go. I want to stay with it and really get used to the system and how I can take advantage of the auto clutch. Anyway, any insight into the number slots are greatly appreciated! Thanks for the excellent information John!
Sorry, just seeing this in this dumbass UA-cam (Creator) comment system!
Yes, the notches are the spring tension, 1 being the softest. I have no idea how much that setting would affect clutch slip/wear, so test at your own rick unless you can find some more information somewhere. Hopefully you found a sweet tune. Mine is perfect. Can’t really even tell it’s in the bike.
Very coplicated clutch by KTM
Complicated?
Extremely simple. All the plates are all the same thickness, Belleville spring, all access through one simple outside cover. The most complicated thing is bleeding the clutch, but even that is really simple if you know the steps.
Even the EXP disc adjustment is pretty straight forward if you understand the concepts.