Neat idea! Interesting that the density select line is still active on the powered off device. It would be interesting to see if the line was high for the Gotek and low for the drive (or vice versa).
You need to buy a Dupont crimping too so you can make custom cables up. Much neater than cutting and soldering, and you can do custom coloured cables as well. They're quite cheap from certain Chinese sellers, and I use mine almost every project. (The crimp tool will also berg connectors like those used on floppy drives)
Was the reason for this so either drive could be DF0:? I was thinking you could have both attached if you made the gotek DF1 and just tell the OS to boot from it when required.
To attach it as DF1 you would need to connect it externally. You will see in Part 2 that you really can't tell that there is a Gotek inside. That was the point.
Not possible to have both working at once? I'm planning to install a gotek in my CoCo 3 to go with its internal floppy. I'll have a drive select AB/BA switch and side select for the floppy. Interested in seeing how you control the gotek...
You can have them both working at once, but not in the way I wired it. You need a boot switcher for that (which is only three sockets, a few cables and a switch).
Actually, wouldn't it be more comfortable to grab df0 and df1 select lines from the CIA and use gotek and diskdrive in paralel, one as df0 and one as df1? swapping the drive select lines by the switch, so you can select floppy or gotek as df0:. But using both at the same time, so you can copy disks to the gotek. Also I would recomment to print your own trapdoor, with USB port to simply put a very smal stick from the underside and also place the switches where. Mostly the trapdoor of the A500 is only partly used, as RAM expansions are not very big. So there shouldn't be a problem to place switches and USB-stick there, without harming the case.
I have a bootselector switch, but you need a connector to make it work and you have to connect the drive from the outside ... or solder to the floppy connector from the inside. I have that in my A1500+ but this here is an experiment to use just some cables and a switch. As for the USB stick: in the new black case there are holes for that on the right side below the floppy drive.
@@RetroWK Actually I checked schematics of the A500 Rev 6 Board. The internal Floppy connector (CN11) already has _SEL1 on PIN12, so no need to grab it elsewere. df0 uses _MTR0, wich comes from Gary PIN46 (MTR0), inverted at U36 (74LS38) available on PIN 6. All external drives use _MTRX, comming from Gary Pin47 (MTR1), inverted at U36, available at PIN 3. All other signals on DB23 and CN11 are identical. Just some EMI-Filters to DB23 to allow longer (external) cables. So all to do to use internal gotek and floppy the same time is to grab _MTRX on U36 Pin 3. Route _MTRX and _SEL1 (CN11 pin 12) to a 4*3 switch, also _MTR0 (CN11 pin 16) and _SEL0 (CN11 pin 10). Use the switch to set wich drive gets _MTR0/_SEL0 and wich gets _MTRX/_SEL1. If you want be able to deactivate df1, just ad a second switch to cut the _SEL1-line before it goes to the changing switch. You do not even need to solder to the A500 board, as you can use one of theese pin grabbers. If your board revision does not have _SEL1 on CN11, you still can grab it at U8 (CIA) pin 14. Sadly I still have to repair battery leakage on my A500+. So it will take some time for me to test it. For the trapdoor modification: While of course with the black case it is not needed for USB, I still wonder why nobody uses the trapdoor to place switches, as you get the design on thingiverse or printables. Should be quite easy to modify to place switches and USB there, sunk a bit deeper so the A500 stil stand normaly. You can keep original parts unmodified, so totaly reversible. Anyway, you shouldn't change switches anyway while Amiga is powered on, so sunk switches in the trapdoor seem the perfect solution, not only for drive changing switches, but also f.e. for kickstart selecting switches - or in short, for every switch that has to be set before powering on anyway. A 4*3 switch in germany is available at Reichelt with articel number MS 500P.
Das. Gotek braucht nur die 5V, der 12V Pin läuft aus dem Gotekboard ins Leere... Ansonsten finde ich die Idee ungewöhnlich, aber so etwas wie die versteckte Gotek habe ich auch noch nicht gesehen... Sicherlich schöner für das Erscheinungsbild des Amiga...
I'm trying to develop a new floppy emulator that will sit on the floppy cable between the motherboard and the real floppy. It is entirely internal and controlled via wifi (also bluetooth) and a cell phone app. It can operate in three modes. Mode one, intercept the signals and emulate the drive, mode two let the signals through allowing you to use the real floppy as normal. Mode three, where it can control the drive and allow you to create (or write back) disk images using real floppies.
I left a comment yesterday about that it might not be a good idea in the long-run to provide power on the gotek mcu datalines without providing power to the mcu itself and that it is probably better to switch the datalines and not the power. That comment was deleted by whatever. There's a github repository from AkBKukU called "FloppySwitchBoard" where he provides a proper solution.
Me too. I’m happy that this video exists because I’m faced with the same challenge. However, this video is more of a voyage of discovery than a “how to.” Maybe this can be refined in a revisit video that has nice graphics and no errors, once you have all the wrinkles ironed out?
Still has a display and buttons - if all goes to plan, mine won't! The size does not matter (in this case) because there is enough room in inside the A500 to fit the full size version.
@@RetroWK Well... There's a version, which uses OSD control - no buttons and additional display. Me personally - I don't like it but my friends use this version and are very satisfied.
in the beginning of this video i am already scratching my head somewhat. i am still watching the video but i already want to mention that as far as i know both the drive and the gotek not even need 12volt power. this 12 volt was always for 5'25 drives so maybe better switch ground and 5volt with the toggle switch to df0: 3,5 or df0:Gotek. but maybe I will be suprised further on in the video. ;)
i did some searching and i did find only convermations that 3,5 drives only need 5 volt and gotek's also. so forget about the grounds and connect those, and use your fist toggle switch to toggle 5 volt to one or the other "drive" and the other half of the switch can be used for breaking this density line that you can split from the flat cable, so almost no dupont wires are needed to keep it tidy. with other words i didn't know about the density line that functions like a cable select and you did not know about 12 volt not needed , now we both learned something. LOL
Neat idea! Interesting that the density select line is still active on the powered off device. It would be interesting to see if the line was high for the Gotek and low for the drive (or vice versa).
I thought the same. Will check for the next episode.
You need to buy a Dupont crimping too so you can make custom cables up. Much neater than cutting and soldering, and you can do custom coloured cables as well. They're quite cheap from certain Chinese sellers, and I use mine almost every project. (The crimp tool will also berg connectors like those used on floppy drives)
You are right. I will get one. ;-)
@@RetroWK I use mine way more than I ever expected to 😀
Was the reason for this so either drive could be DF0:? I was thinking you could have both attached if you made the gotek DF1 and just tell the OS to boot from it when required.
To attach it as DF1 you would need to connect it externally. You will see in Part 2 that you really can't tell that there is a Gotek inside. That was the point.
Not possible to have both working at once?
I'm planning to install a gotek in my CoCo 3 to go with its internal floppy. I'll have a drive select AB/BA switch and side select for the floppy.
Interested in seeing how you control the gotek...
You can have them both working at once, but not in the way I wired it. You need a boot switcher for that (which is only three sockets, a few cables and a switch).
Actually, wouldn't it be more comfortable to grab df0 and df1 select lines from the CIA and use gotek and diskdrive in paralel, one as df0 and one as df1? swapping the drive select lines by the switch, so you can select floppy or gotek as df0:. But using both at the same time, so you can copy disks to the gotek.
Also I would recomment to print your own trapdoor, with USB port to simply put a very smal stick from the underside and also place the switches where. Mostly the trapdoor of the A500 is only partly used, as RAM expansions are not very big. So there shouldn't be a problem to place switches and USB-stick there, without harming the case.
I have a bootselector switch, but you need a connector to make it work and you have to connect the drive from the outside ... or solder to the floppy connector from the inside. I have that in my A1500+ but this here is an experiment to use just some cables and a switch. As for the USB stick: in the new black case there are holes for that on the right side below the floppy drive.
@@RetroWK Actually I checked schematics of the A500 Rev 6 Board.
The internal Floppy connector (CN11) already has _SEL1 on PIN12, so no need to grab it elsewere.
df0 uses _MTR0, wich comes from Gary PIN46 (MTR0), inverted at U36 (74LS38) available on PIN 6.
All external drives use _MTRX, comming from Gary Pin47 (MTR1), inverted at U36, available at PIN 3.
All other signals on DB23 and CN11 are identical. Just some EMI-Filters to DB23 to allow longer (external) cables.
So all to do to use internal gotek and floppy the same time is to grab _MTRX on U36 Pin 3. Route _MTRX and _SEL1 (CN11 pin 12) to a 4*3 switch, also _MTR0 (CN11 pin 16) and _SEL0 (CN11 pin 10). Use the switch to set wich drive gets _MTR0/_SEL0 and wich gets _MTRX/_SEL1.
If you want be able to deactivate df1, just ad a second switch to cut the _SEL1-line before it goes to the changing switch.
You do not even need to solder to the A500 board, as you can use one of theese pin grabbers.
If your board revision does not have _SEL1 on CN11, you still can grab it at U8 (CIA) pin 14.
Sadly I still have to repair battery leakage on my A500+. So it will take some time for me to test it.
For the trapdoor modification: While of course with the black case it is not needed for USB, I still wonder why nobody uses the trapdoor to place switches, as you get the design on thingiverse or printables. Should be quite easy to modify to place switches and USB there, sunk a bit deeper so the A500 stil stand normaly. You can keep original parts unmodified, so totaly reversible. Anyway, you shouldn't change switches anyway while Amiga is powered on, so sunk switches in the trapdoor seem the perfect solution, not only for drive changing switches, but also f.e. for kickstart selecting switches - or in short, for every switch that has to be set before powering on anyway.
A 4*3 switch in germany is available at Reichelt with articel number MS 500P.
Das. Gotek braucht nur die 5V, der 12V Pin läuft aus dem Gotekboard ins Leere... Ansonsten finde ich die Idee ungewöhnlich, aber so etwas wie die versteckte Gotek habe ich auch noch nicht gesehen... Sicherlich schöner für das Erscheinungsbild des Amiga...
I'm trying to develop a new floppy emulator that will sit on the floppy cable between the motherboard and the real floppy. It is entirely internal and controlled via wifi (also bluetooth) and a cell phone app. It can operate in three modes. Mode one, intercept the signals and emulate the drive, mode two let the signals through allowing you to use the real floppy as normal. Mode three, where it can control the drive and allow you to create (or write back) disk images using real floppies.
Cool! I would love to cover that on the channel!
The gotek doesn't actually use the 12v so you can skip that wire if it saves any effort/headache.
Yep. Did that! Thanks!
Would'nt it be easier and tidier to cut the floppy cable's pin 2 wire to the Gotek and splice that to the switch ?
It would. Check out the next episode ;-)
@@RetroWK I can't wait. :)
I left a comment yesterday about that it might not be a good idea in the long-run to provide power on the gotek mcu datalines without providing power to the mcu itself and that it is probably better to switch the datalines and not the power. That comment was deleted by whatever. There's a github repository from AkBKukU called "FloppySwitchBoard" where he provides a proper solution.
Thanks! I assume you had a link in the comment. UA-cam deletes these without even showing them to the creator.
I’m so confused
Me too. I’m happy that this video exists because I’m faced with the same challenge. However, this video is more of a voyage of discovery than a “how to.” Maybe this can be refined in a revisit video that has nice graphics and no errors, once you have all the wrinkles ironed out?
Yep. That is the plan. I just filmed the tidy-up segment for the next episode. It's much easier now!
Yep. That is the plan. I just filmed the tidy-up segment for the next episode. It's much easier now!
I guess, you've never seen micro Goteks by Zaxon.
Still has a display and buttons - if all goes to plan, mine won't! The size does not matter (in this case) because there is enough room in inside the A500 to fit the full size version.
@@RetroWK Well... There's a version, which uses OSD control - no buttons and additional display. Me personally - I don't like it but my friends use this version and are very satisfied.
I hadn't until you mentioned them. Thanks!
Now all that I haven't seen is one for sale. :)
in the beginning of this video i am already scratching my head somewhat. i am still watching the video but i already want to mention that as far as i know both the drive and the gotek not even need 12volt power. this 12 volt was always for 5'25 drives so maybe better switch ground and 5volt with the toggle switch to df0: 3,5 or df0:Gotek.
but maybe I will be suprised further on in the video. ;)
you could be right on the 12v ;-) ... but ground will not be the problem ...
i did some searching and i did find only convermations that 3,5 drives only need 5 volt and gotek's also. so forget about the grounds and connect those,
and use your fist toggle switch to toggle 5 volt to one or the other "drive" and the other half of the switch can be used for breaking this density line that you can split from the flat cable, so almost no dupont wires are needed to keep it tidy.
with other words i didn't know about the density line that functions like a cable select and you did not know about 12 volt not needed , now we both learned something. LOL
@@janwiersma1449 LOL Yep. I knew that the Gotek can run from 5v only. Wasn't sure about the floppy. Just tested and filmed that for the next episode.