Macro Lighting Cage II - let there be light
Вставка
- Опубліковано 13 лют 2020
- Picking up from where we left off in Part I, in this video we get into all the various light sources, modifiers, and attachment hardware that you might need to get the most out of your lighting cage. We also consider subject placement, diffusion, reflectors, and backgrounds. The first half of the video focuses on continuous lighting and the second is all about flash. If you haven't looked at the first video in this series, be sure you do - it'll help make sense of this one.
These are the links to the cutting diagram and the parts list:
drive.google.com/open?id=1BNO...
drive.google.com/file/d/1luAH...
Three years ago, inspired by this video series, I built “one of these things.” Like many viewers I upped the ante on workmanship and aesthetics. I knitted it out with all the suggested gimcracks and dodads. The next step was to learn how to capture and prepare insect specimens. Meanwhile, I got distracted by other endeavors. Recently fungi and slime molds attracted my attention and finally the rig is in play. I’ve gotten as far as running some preliminary tests with reversed Nikon 50mm enlarger lens on PB6 bellows on StackShot controlled from Zerene Stacker with D850 tethered to Lightroom. Now I’m reviewing your videos on lighting strategies. Onward! Thanks again.
Thank You Allan!! I've been learning a lot from your videos. And Also love your sense of humor. Your videos are very practícal and straight to the point. 😘
Allan, I love your philosophy of designing and making the equipment without spending big bucks. I am just starting macro photography and your advice has proved to be incredibly useful.
OMG! I can not thank you enough for the info about the quad arm device - ive seen someone use that in another video and have been searching FOREVER to find what the hell it was and where i could find one. I just rdered one, and you sir have made my day
Thanks for the great ideas! Would never have thought about using the ring light from below.
Hi Jim, yes indeed! I do use a ring flash for bottom lighting and it is a very handy tool. When space is tight, a white bounce card is almost as effective. But if you have loads of space, it is a very versatile technique!
Thanks Allan for your wonderful video...Macro Lighting Cage, and just to let you know I've now gone and built one and absolutely love it, Cheers for all your great video's on Macro Photography !
Thanks Dennis, and you are very welcome!
Great setup , it certainly speeds the workflow up.
Thanks. It speeds things up for me too, but the biggest advantage (for me) is the reproducibility of a given lighting setup.
Great tutorial, love the macro ring light mod!
I have built a similar cage about a year ago using a wooden sticks for shooting dental prostheses I make.
Looking forward for an actual light usage.
Thanks Maxim - will hopefully have a full shoot video early next week!
Thank you. I build a rig based on your tutorial in 2 afternoons. I doubled up on the MDF, 3/4 in, and used screws for the cage instead of glue to hold the cage together. I used eight 3 way connectors for the corners of the partial cube, 3 screws per corner. All screws, 1 in each direction about 1/4 inch from the end of the connector, faced out of the cage . The MDF's, 31.8 lbs, I glued together with DAP Wellwood glue. Sanded the edges and all corners. I could not find suitable conduit holders and ended up screwing the cage to the MDF base with four 2" black drywall screws 1 in each base corner. I used 2 sheets of HF Foam Mat under the MDF as "feet" until I can get some "vibration isolation feet". I have a Wemacro rig and want to isolate vibration as much as possible. Now I have to incorporate the Wemacro rig to the "Cube". Thank you for being such a superb teacher.
Fantastic! It sounds like all you need to add are a few steel plates and a set of wheels and you'll have a tank! I would love to see some pictures of the finished cage, with the Wemacro rig in place. Thanks for sharing all the build details!
very cool load of tips and tricks here Allan
I have found a substitute for the floor tile.
Just use a dead flat-screen TV !
I'm doing it and it gives a beautiful reflection of your subject.
Great, much appreciated. Thanks Allan.
My pleasure!
Great! Thank you for all the effort!!!
Excellent. Very very useful for super Macro Photography.
Can't wait 'till part 3!
Shouldn't be much longer! Thanks David.
Idea.....Background colors for your studio cage. I just held up a red cloth dinner napkin at the back of the one I just made. Cloth napkins are the perfect size...20"x 20". Now to attach it. I'm thinking putting those tiny metal eyelets along the edge then using rubber bands. Fabric stores usually have the tiny eyelets and the crimping tool. My thinking is one can get a variety of colors and they are already hemmed around d the edges. I just watched your yellow dart/smoke experiment...beautiful. PhotoShop is going to be a must.
Helping hands (for electronics soldering) is one of my latest products. They are extremely similar to yours, though the bottom plate is square and slotted to allow the arms to move around. I loved so much during the shooting, they are now my table. I did notice I was picking up that yellow in some shots, so I coated the metal plate with white paper. Also added heat shrink wrapping to the alligator clips because the teeth were leaving dents in what they were grabbing.
For those that are looking for the helping hands, be sure the arms are metal. The plastic ones are terrible and will slowly droop.
Me too - I need to paint mine black.
Great job!
Thanks, learn a lot.
The grey conduit clamps Alan uses to mount the cage on the base can be used to mount custom built lights across the top and sides of the cage. I used two of them screwed to a 2" x 6" x 3/4" piece of pine. Screw the clamp on both ends then mount your custom DIY light bracket. They slide nicely along the PVC for positioning. Use your imagination. For the lights....small LED 1200 lumen work lights. I removed the base they come with. Then built a articulating arm from short lengths of 3/8" x 3/4" and bolted the ends together with a wingnut for adjustments. Spray with primer, sand with 400 grit sandpaper and paint with flat black. I'm going to make a video which explains everything in more detail.
Alan,
Thank you for the beginning where you mentioned the Home Depot flooring stuff, there's a special place in heaven for you now. :)
Really, that was nice of you to do.
Also, I have to say, yes, you have long videos, but I can guarantee you that WE that watch these, 'get it', on this one, I thought it would be a while before it ended, and I didn't want it to when it did. :)
Just in case that nobody ever tells you, you have the perfect personality for this, AND, the things you make/do, are not just brilliant, they are needed for those that do this stuff. I was amazed at how many things that you showed in here, I hope that you get a LOT of subscribers, soon. :)
One thing I did want to mention, the doo-dads that you show 'we' don't know where to purchase them, is it possible for you to have links to them at some point, and continue doing that. Usually, the first thing that I do after I watch a video is I click on their links to see what the deal is with whatever it is that I am interested in. Not just that, but when you get to the point of using (Amazon, for instance) as a company the sponsors you (if that is the correct word), so you can make a little bit for helping us.
Just keep on doing what you are doing, I can't wait to see what you are doing on each video, and I can make my own stuff, but you make it more entertaining, and, your brain is larger, so your stuff is better. heheh
Thank you, kind Sir, for all that you do. (I sound like a big kiss-up, don't I?) heheh
Thanks so much for the feedback. I'm glad you find the videos useful - it's why I do it! I will work harder to make sure you know where to go to find the various bits and pieces I use in my projects. If I can remember!
Thank you for correcting yourself and being honest about the floor tiles. I was wondering about that. Maybe purchasing only a piece of baseboard of some kind might work?
Thanks Karen - I don't know what I was thinking. I took the samples back to HD today and bought several materials to try out - hope to get to it tomorrow.
Oh man that thumbnail got me haha
for floor tile go to a Lumber Liquidators and ask about damaged pieces.
good series Allan......I like the bracelet as well......a solid non brand color would be nice too
Hi Alan... great idea! As for the bracelet - shoot me a message (contact@allanwallsphotography.com) with the solid color you would have ordered, had it been an option. I'll make it and get it out to you tomorrow (no charge).
I'm having trouble find the ANGLE PLATE that you attached to the mounting plate on the wooden slider. I purchased the PVC material today at Lowes....$24.00. It could have been cheaper if I bought the 3/4" pipe in a 10 ft length, but I couldn't get it in my car.
Excellent Video and everything you do. Have picked up some great tips from you. Was wondering though what clamps you used to fix those flashes???
Sorry for missing your question! They are 11" SmallRig articulating arms with SmallRig Super Clamps - all available on Amazon.
Allan, Lowe's tends to keep an abundance of wood floor sample pieces that they sell for 25 cents to a dollar apiece. Thus, we can pay a reasonable price for the few pieces we need and primarily pick samples from the ones they have a surplus of and not interfere with someone else's needs.
Thanks for the suggestion! I have picked up all kinds of scrap from Lowes over the years and they often don't charge anything for the bits and pieces I get. Why that didn't occur to me on this occasion is a mystery! Thanks again!
Your comment is shamefull!
Thank you Allan for the inspiration. I was planning to us an Edelkrone slider for the camera movement. I was in a dilemma to use it due to its higher cost. However, I have noticed that you are using a metal slider in the video related to white BG. I am curious to know the name of that slider. If it's affordable, I don't have to depend friends to cut the MDF for installing the wooden slider showed in the first video. Thanks,
Hi again Satheesh, the slider in that video is my Cognisys StackShot - it is a very fine, high precision focus stacking rail. I have the longer version, there is a slightly shorter one. These rails can advance the camera/lens in increments as short as a single micron. It is an indispensable tool for high magnification photography. It is also expensive, I'm afraid ($600 and up). There are several companies trying to woo customers with better pricing (WeMacro is probably the best known). But if you are new to macro and plan to start out at lower magnification, you will do fine with a manual rail for the time being. You do not have to follow my plans for the cage if getting the right tools is a problem. I used to have a flat wooden base to which I attached a manual rail from above, with 6- screws. Of course, it was a problem to move it forward or backward, but if you plan the distance right and stay between 1:2 and 3:1 magnification, you should never have to move the base. Be creative! All the you need is something flat and as stable as possible. Everything else can be improvised.
Thank you for making this wonderful video series. I have started making my cage. I am wondering whether you could tell me the name of the clamps used to attach the flashes and the material used to make the background screen. Thanks,
Hi Satheesh, I'm glad to hear you are building a cage! You will love it. The clamps and arms I use are listed in the show notes of this video... ua-cam.com/video/ehKq8hcENqM/v-deo.html and the there are numerous materials that I use for backdrops, but my two favorites are black velvet and white acrylic. I have several videos that cover many of the other backdrops I use from time to time. Good luck!
Hi Allan, you mentioned that you would attach a list of the items used to light the cage on the Part 1 video. I couldn't find where you had posted that list. Thanks. Carl
Hi Carl, Sorry about that! I just added the links to the cutting diagram and parts list in the show notes (above). If you can't get to them, shoot me an email and I'll mail them to you - contact@allanwallsphotography.com.
This is awesome stuff, Alan. There are a plethora of super clamps out there on Amazon. Have you found a particular one that you prefer? I am traveling this week, but have a plan of attack to start this project when I get home. I love the idea of having a dedicated macro work space, as setting up for a shoot is the main reason I put off doing a shoot.
Thanks Stephen. I really like the Camvate super clamps. They are still available for $11 (for two), a real bargain. The Small Rig ones are also very good, but the reason I prefer the Camvate clamps is because they have two additional mounting holes on the side. Hard to beat for the price!
Great video. My only concern with the quad helping hand is getting a yellow cast on the image. I would paint it black. Thanks for sharing.
Sometimes it does, you are absolutely right. I place a square of black velvet over the base when that becomes an issue. Thanks for pointing this out!
Love it Allan. I will be making one of these puppies real soon. By the way, you mentioned that you put a list of items in your show notes but after looking at your last two vlogs in the "listings below" -highlighted in blue, there's only the cutting size for the softbox you made, and the other, only the cut sizes of the actual board for this project. Greg
Hi Greg, I have somehow mixed up the links. As soon as I check everything, the correct links will be in the show notes for this video. Sorry about that!
All fixed now Greg. Thanks for catching that!
@@AllanWallsPhotography Thanks Allan.
Hi Alan,love your work. Will you be doing a Video covering how you set-up your speedlights and Led Lights for Shooting with the Cage? Cheers in Advance, Mark
Cheers Mark. Yes... I have been working on a Part III video where I use the cage for continuous lighting and for flash. It is taking a little longer to put together than expected, but it will be out in the next couple of days. Thanks for watching!
@@AllanWallsPhotography Thanks Alan for taking the time to reply. Looking foward to seeing the cage in action.
I did not see any information in the show notes of the last video regarding the lab lifter. Can you provide me the information. Thanks.
Hi Joel. You should be able to find plenty of them for example on Amazon. Search for "scissor jack" or "lab lifting platform". Prices range between 15 and 50 USD/EUR. Here is one made-in-China example:
www.amazon.it/Scientific-laboratorio-Platform-lab-lift-controllo/dp/B01M8LBBZM
(if you wonder why I think it's from China, check the last of the five pictures of the item...).
How did you secure the z bracket thing to the sled! Did you drill holes and screw it down to the sled or screws from bottom up?
Bottom up - it has several holes in the base that will take 1/4-20 bolts. Easy to mount.
@@AllanWallsPhotography thanks i just couldn't find it in the videos. It's probably there i just missed it. I am well on my way to getting mine done!! I have everything i need and i painted all the wood and pvc just for fun and now i will try to get it put together. What a great bunch of videos and i appreciate all the hard work. I have become a big fan of your channel.
@@GrandpaTom Thanks! Good luck!
Fórmica slides very well
I had an idea for adding a seamless backdrop, which may help reduce the need for clamps. In the PVC tubes near the top two back corners, in the side rails, drill a hole through and through so a 28 inch (or so) length of steel rod can be threaded through from one side to the other. Your backdrop paper could be taped to the rod. Or the holes could be drilled in the two back vertical pipes just below the top corner pipes, allowing you to still clamp lights to the back top horizontal pipe. If done properly, it would look like a mini fashion seamless backdrop. I'm planning to build a version of this cage and I'm just mulling over all the suggestions for improvements. One of my wishes is to be able to construct a solid cage that can be disabled for storage. I'm just mulling over how this could be accomplished, yet when assembled, it would be just as sturdy.
That is among the many modifications I have tinkered with over the years. It works, but i use so many different backlighting setups, in addition to simple backdrops, I have found it best to leave the space open to add elements as needed. You might want to hold off on building your cage a little while - I have designed an entirely new and significantly improved cage that is based on an extruded aluminum frame with modular components for the focus rail, lighting, and specimen platform. It will be collapsible, for easy storage, and the modular components will make it easier to add functionality as you need it. Once I am finished prototyping I will put together a series of videos showing how to make your own.
@@AllanWallsPhotography Hey Allen - I mentioned I used to be an upholsterer .. fairly decent sewing skills.. I also used to make upholstered furniture from scratch, so I eventually became quite proficient at woodworking and joinery. Rather than using PVC, I was toying with the idea of making the frame from wood. I had thought about using metal, mostly aluminum, but unless I can source everything I need, I can see myself running into issues or worse, a roadblock: stuck due to some inability to acquire a shape or form to finish the job perfectly. I will be very interested to see what you create. I decided to make the camera carriage very close to your design and certainly bolt the thing down to a sliding mechanism to result in the greatest stability. I was thinking of getting some teflon for the smooth under surface. I've gotten the WeMacro rail and filled the hardware gaps with adapters and enlarger lenses and/or plan objectives where needed. I plan to make-alter-create a mini strobe system to help in the lighting. Damn it Allen... you have created a whole mess of projects to keep me busy for the unforeseeable future. lol
@@Just-a-bystander Hahaha - tell me about it!!!
Having watched many of your videos, can I ask how you keep up with the constant need to change and charge batteries during long sessions. Flashes needing 4x aa and cameras and led lights as well. It’s a nightmare
Hi Andrew - it is a nightmare, and if I had the wherewithal to remedy the problem with better gear, I would. But I am all about making do with what I have already got. But having said that, when speedlight breaks, I replace it with one that takes large capacity LiPo batteries or can run on external power. But there are a couple of things that make it less frustrating. I start with fully recharged AA batteries and I use the Eneloop Pro brand batteries (NOT the white ones - which are no good at all). The other thing I do is turn the beep to "ON" on all the speedlights. I have been doing this for so long that I can tell from the timing of the beeps when I need fresh batteries. In a three flash setup, my preferred technique, I let my focus rail run the stacks and, wherever I am in the house, I can here the clack of the shutter followed by 3- beeps. As the stack progresses the beeps spread out until, eventually, the next shutter release occurs after only 2-beeps, and I know it is time to change batteries. And when I do, I change them all at the same time. Complicated answer, but it works. One day I will have 6 name brand speedlights, all running off wall power. But until then, I improvise!
Allan Walls Photography Thanks Alan, I suspected we all had these issues. Like you I am trying to keep costs low and will just continue as you describe. By the way, if you receive any threats, it may be my wife. She’s getting annoyed with me saying’ Alan said...’. Congratulations on your rising subs
I feel a building project coming on but...
The shot that I worked on today required to be taken vertically downwards - wet subjects won’t stand up!
So I started to think about a modified design for the sled to allow the camera to look vertically downwards.
Maybe two interchangeable sleds might be the simple answer.
Would welcome your thoughts.
Hi Alan - that is a really intriguing problem and I have a couple of ideas for solving it. I do some flat-lay photography for product shoots and I have built a rig for positioning the camera above the flat-lay. looking down. But the one I have is cumbersome, so I've been sketching out a new solution. In a nutshell, it is like a camera slider, with the camera fixed to a base that is perpendicular to the wheeled carriage, above. I think this deserves another DIY video - give me a week or so to work on some plans and I'll share my ideas with you. Send me an email outlining exactly what you are trying to do (subject, distance, camera type, and focal length of lens) and I'll use that data to start planning. The email Address is contact@allanwallsphotography.com.
What is the name of the clamp thing? You said it was something that computer chip folks use. Thanks!
Hi Kevin, it is called the Quad Hands and Amazon sells it here... www.amazon.com/QuadHands-Helping-Hands-Third-Soldering/dp/B00GIKVP5K?ref_=ast_sto_dp
Once again very useful and informative. The only question I have is - did you ever consider spraying the white cage tubes and the base board matt black? I don't think the base would be very reflective but the white tubing might be. You probably have a very reason for not doing that. Thanks again for a great video. :)
Hi Barry, Great question! My last few cages were all painted matte black, to avoid reflections. But they all shed bits of paint every time I moved a clamp or used tape to attach something. So with this one I did some comparisons and it turned out that the white didn't seem to be having any negative impact - so no paint. I would be very interested to see if anyone has a different experience.
@@AllanWallsPhotography Hi Allan, thanks for that, I did wonder if you had tried it and found a snag, the only alternative I could think of would be black piping but I don't know if they make in in the size, I will have a look. I am now leaning towards making a cage, I just have to find a place for it! Barry
Hi Allan,
I went searching for materials today and struck a problem. High pressure PVC pipe is only used for plumbing in Australia and the plumbing expert in Bunnings (our equivalent of Home Depot) assures me that there are no 3 way connectors used for plumbing (at least in Australia). As an alternative he suggested square section Anodised Aluminium, only available in 1 inch outer dimension but with necessary connectors available. It various in lengths including 18 inch length so no cutting or indeed gluing required; just ram the connectors in the ends. The rigidity of the frame would be improved and keeping it square during assembly would not be an issue. It comes in black as a bonus.
What I am wondering is would the square section limit the versatility of clamp positioning and is 1 inch too large for the clamps? What do you think?
Hi Ian. That surprises me. I would have expected those connectors to be universally available. I would be concerned about using a 1" OD pipe for the cage, primarily because of the clamps. The Camvate/Small Rig clamps are not going to big enough to hold firmly to the larger pipe. I've tried using them on the main shaft of my C-stands (just a smidge over 1") and they barely fit. The flat "flash clamps" (plastic with a cold shoe on the back) also don't grip nearly as well to 1" pipe. You could always get full-sized super clamps, but they are quite a bit more expensive. Have you considered 1/2" copper pipe? That is easy to cut, very sturdy, and works well for the cage. The three way connectors are available in any US hardware store, but I also see that Amazon sells them. Of course, you would have to solder the joints to put it together. The only other solution would be to order the 3-way PVC connectors online (pvcpipesupplies.com/1-2-so-ell-90-s-413-005.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAyp7yBRCwARIsABfQsnS3pRy5OW5ALIW0b46_IOvSzrLfTMyf-bTls5vi87wirwS0pBJNHi8aAuVpEALw_wcB). If none of those solutions work, let me know (contact@allanwallsphotography.com) and I'll drop 6 of them in the mail to you.
@@AllanWallsPhotography Hi Allan. Thanks for the reply. I am talking about square section tube not pipe. I am not even sure that I could get the 1/2 inch pvc pipe here anyway.
The listing in the link you posted for the pipe has some confusing details regarding dimensions. 1/2 pipe, interior dia 0.602 inch, wall thickness 0.109 inch. Why that is considered to be 1/2 inch pipe seems odd. Can you measure the OD and post it here please.
I will check further with specialist plumber suppliers tomorrow. In the meantime I have ordered a Small Rig clamp to do some tests.
Hi Ian... I think I have got to the bottom of this confusion (caused by me, of course!). I think the 1/2" stamped on the tubing must be a nominal dimension because, as you said, the outer diameter is actually 0.84" (22mm). To confuse things more, the inner diameter is 0.6" (15mm) and the wall thickness is 0.13" (3mm). There is no actual dimension of 1/2". Whoever came up with this nutty system must have a great sense of humor. As to your question, I just tried all my clamps on a 1" square piece of wood and they seem fairly secure. The problem is that when you tighten the clamp it rotates until it seats against on of the four faces of the rod. Which would limit your ability to use other angles for the lights. I had the same problem when I tried to build a prototype using right angle aluminium stock. My offer still stands to send over the connectors if you have access to 22mm OD PVC.
@@allanwalls53 Thanks Allan. I will try and find a source of the pipe tomorrow.
Allan I forgot to add that the clamps I have for speed lights are articulated and cheap although a bit heavy ( see link www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B00JJJR7PY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) so alignment should not be an issue.
Just purchased the parts for my cage only, at Home Depot.... 76 Bucks! Oh, but wait, there's no infaltion? HAH! Anyway, diving into this photography mode feet first...
$76!?!?! I built my house for less than that! But then again, it's a pretty rubbish house. Good luck!
Thinking now I need two more Ts for a cross piece on top. That-is, to mount the camera from directly above. Cross piece to be measured about 10" from back of cage to center over your sweet spot below. Anyway...the plumbing hardware guy said " You will be back ". To prove him wrong I'm going to a different hardware.
Hahaha... I thought I was the only one that did that!!!
I have been kicking around an idea for a while, and I think I may get around to developing it. Your videos of using the lab lift provided the final piece. Until now I have been learning by doing product photography for my robotics/electronics importing business. My setup is scarily similar to your with the PVC. Anyhow, back to point. I want to make an auto focus slide that triggers the camera as well while in remote mode. You would set the distance to move the subject, time delay between shots and how many shots to take. Once you have it in place, press a button and its automated from there with no chance of bumming or over adjusting. Just walk away and let it do its thing. Should only take about $20 worth of parts... and ATTiny MCU, IR transmitter/receiver, pancake stepper motor, screw drive hardware. I considered attachments to the camera, but every cameras different and I do want any of Canon friends complaining... not that I would friends with a Canon person to begin with. You could set your camera, any type, and not touch it after that, let the platform do all the work.
I have been working on a very similar idea for about a year. It is almost ready to put out as a DIY project. I have been trying to develop a precise three dimensional positioning device that would mount into the lighting cage. The specimen pin (or whatever mount you use) is clipped to an arm and from then on everything is done from the camera end. I use three of the linear actuator assemblies from DVD players, they don't have much travel, but my subjects aren't big. I use a simple jogging program and a salvaged playstation controller to move the subject to the position I want without risking nudging a light. Once I have all the bugs worked out I will be adding a rotational component and using it to capture full 360 bug pictures that you can "walk around". It would have been finished 9 months ago if it weren't for the coding!
@@AllanWallsPhotography The coding for stitching a 3D model based off a series of 2D images is going to be tricky... though it does not have to know its 3D image, just which point on the path the user is viewing from. My degrees are in CS, CE and EE. I've been working for the defense industry here in the US for a few decades, primarily, as a software engineer. However, I have plenty of experience building and working with robotics. The cheapest and most accurate kit your going to find will be out of a DVD player or a printer. However, for larger scale, the 3D community is packed full of people like us constantly adding to a collective knowledge. The table I idea I had is essentially the two axis bed of a 3D printer. You've probably already guessed the problem. You would have to shoot inline with the plane and that is nearly impossible, otherwise you would be a slight rotation effect if you flip through the images. It would have to have a motor geared to height knob for the Z axis.
On your project, I have a board I absolutely love that would be perfect. The MKS 1.4. There is a free where platform you can load on it that is all opensource. You push code just like you would an arduino and it has all the 3D math you need built in. You can modify the existing and write your own classes. There are newer boards but they have built in motor drivers, which I am not a fan of. The DRV8825 modules can do a 1/32 step and they are dirt cheap. That coupled with the right gearing and you can get precision down the μms.
@@jeffg6924 Exactly - it sounds like we are on the same page. I have used every driver out there and I like the DRV8825 module too. My problem is time. I don't have nearly enough of it to get everything done. You mentioned you have stock of robotics parts - is this a commercial enterprise and if so, could you share a link? I know I am not the only one working on positioning robotics.
@@AllanWallsPhotography I do wholesale and stock resupply, so no storefront. Though if you let me know what you are looking for, I'll just send it out if I carry it. The way I figure it, you have saved me untold hours and have given me a ton of knowledge I would happily have paid for. So, whatever you're looking for, say the word. If its not out on the racks, I have shipments coming in several times a month and can very likely source it.
Just recieved the Neewer extention tubes today in the mail and I'm sending them back. Their advertising photo on their website, at amazon and the photo on their box was not the product I ordered. The photos of this product shown metal connectors. The ones I received were 100% plastic. In othe words....Junk. I will not insult my $700 camera in that way.
Next, that viewer who is worried about Home Depot's sample floor tiles will bitch about using using PVC plumbing pipe.