I know these are "meant" for FDM - but for anyone out there attempting to print in resin - make note that most resins have sulfur which can introduce cure inhibition with platinum based silicones. Either use a tin-cure silicone with no worries OR coat your resin print in some sort of varnish. There are also certain resins available in which you don't need to take extra care with but do need to follow the manufacturer's guide for curing correctly in order to prevent this issue when used with platinum silicone.
It just so happens... that I have another project testing out Siraya Tech's new silicone that is made for molding resin 3d prints. But your info is 1000% helpful! Thanks!
Glad you knew the details on this. I vaguely remembered certain silicones not curing well when used with platinum molds, or vice versa. Thanks for laying out the details.
Zach is very correct and the dice makers know this since they tend to resin print their master dice, then make silicone molds. There are a few options. The first one is to let your resin print really really cure up (2+ weeks or more, haven't tried it personally). Another option is to use a product like Mann Inhibit X (which seems to be the same folks as Smooth On and Reynolds Advanced Materials). This makes a barrier that completely removes the problem (have tried it personally). But it's also fairly expensive, though a can of this stuff lasts a long time. The last option is some kind of varnish or lacquer to act as a barrier (not sure on products, haven't tried it).
Uncured silicone (and epoxy resin!) actually can clean out of molds pretty well with simple Clorox wipes, no need to toss those molds. I also recommend trying out Dragon Skin 10 for silicone. It's less fussy, you can eyeball it reliably, and it's remarkably stretchy in addition to being soft. I like using the 20 version for dice molds.
Also, I’d suggest against “eyeball” mixing. That’s probably why some of them are tacky. And your Uncle Jessy logo can be cleaned with Naptha. That’s the solvent you use to clean up silicone. 😊
I was overly irritated at that... "I'm not gonna do this right... Then I'm gonna complain about how it didn't work right..." Really did those two companies a disservice there.
@@BadPandaWoodworks fyi I mention towards the end and show off a properly measured mold and after 24hrs it’s still not cured. It took close to 3 days now for that mold that was measured properly to cure. All the others were good
@@UncleJessy I watched the entire video.. I know you went back and glossed over how you were going to do it the right way... But why not do it right the first time? I get the need for sensationalism on UA-cam... You want the views... But I don't get the "I'm gonna do this the wrong way first, talk about how bad it is, then go back at the end and gloss over doing it right" thing you did here. I appreciate what you're doing here, but this one leaves a bit to be desired.
FYI Smooth-On is a top tier producer of silicones for mold pours. They have good pricing and love helping out the crafting community. They have tons of Hollywood customers and a great reputation in the special effects industry.
He mentions smooth-on towards the end and mentioned he didn't want to pay $50 for silicone when he knew he wouldn't use the whole thing. But yes, I love smooth-on as well
Mixing the correct ratio of the 2 parts is pretty important and you didn't look to be actually measuring any of these accurately. Likely the reason why some of them didnt fully cure.
Towards the end I did properly mix via a scale and after 48 hrs it’s still messy. Lots of reviews on Amazon saying similar with that brand unfortunately
Less of a mold box and more of a glove mold approach. The usefulness is questionable if you want to reuse a printed mold like this since its still printed in one piece
its better to get other material thats rubbery but isnt silicone, also with rigid figures you use rubbery mold, with rubbery figures you use rigid molds
The "squishy" factor of the different silicone mixes is determined by the shore hardness rating of them. The lower the number, 1-100, the squishier it will be when cured. It can be hard sometimes to find the shore hardness when shopping for a silicone mix. The red mold mix has a higher shore hardness than the Elmer's mix.
Pretty sure The Crafsman would have some answers and advice for ya on a lot of this. He did a series experimenting with similar ideas. That would be a great collaboration 😀
3d printed plastics often cause problems with platinum cure silicone. Giving it a dunk in some inhibit-x should help. I usually coat my prints in wax when I want to take a mold of them.
Building a pressure chamber from a paint tank is awesome for getting rid of bubbles and it's not too expensive. There's a guy on here wearing a backwards hat that has as tutorial on how to convert it, it's easy and I use mine all the time.
When mixing silicon most are mixed by weight, get some digital scales. Eyeballing it isn't the way to go. Make sure to also read the materials sheet, and pay attention to temperature range required for it to cure. A combination of incorrect measurements and temp could be why that silicon was not curing correctly. If you decide to do a followup it would probably be worth covering some different types of silicon. Eg food safe, tear resistance, and heat resistant types.
that stickiness is likely a result of improper mixing or adding too much colorant. it will never dry out. Also, contaminates in the mold can cause no curing.
I've worked with all kinds of different silicones and I wanted to let you know there's a big difference between the platinum based silicones and the TiN based silicones. With the Platinum if there's any kind of sulfur at all it will not set properly. The platinums can be very fussy. The TiN Bass pretty much don't care if you mix the two parts together it's going to cure. I mean unless you really have a lot of contamination. Also you can get the silicone in different grades of hardness which are called A-Shore... Do some research on that pretty quick and you'll learn a lot. There are oils that can be mixed in with the silicone to lower the A-Shore number... That makes it softer, at the cost that it can tear easier. You may want to do a search for Cine Skin which is a type of TiN silicone which approximates the feel of human skin. Give or take. I hope that helps you.
The little "trench" is just considered a mold key. Can take on pretty much any shape, just to make sure the molds are going together perfectly lined up.
I have been looking into doing this for the dice set my daughter created. Think I'll finally get around to do it after watching this! Thanks for the great video as always UJ!
tbh, for platinum cure silicone, I'd stick with either smooth-on's dragon skin or platsil gel 10, most of the random silicones on amazon are pretty dodgy. It's more expensive for sure, but worth the better outcome imho.
Hi Uncle Jesse can you please help me i need your help. I'm trying to print quite tall cylinder shapes on my elegoo saturn and the prints are saying 6hrs but the print is taking 22hrs?? i can't find anyhting on how to setup chitubox for faster printing and i know the Bottom lift speed and lifting speed have a big part to play but i'm to afraid to change these. can you please do a video showing in depth what we can do with these setting for chitubox V1.9.4. thank you so much
I love the idea of printing a mold then casting it in various methods. One thing I want to try out is creating my own head for making hats. My idea atm is scan my head, create a 3D printed mold of it, either put a crap ton of mold release or just use plastic, then putting great stuff (expanding foam) on the inside. I've heard if you sprits it with water, there will be less bubbles. This could also be a cool test in your studio to display all of the helmets. As for the silicone, as someone else mentioned, silicone is piiicky when it comes to measuring. Eyeballing can be very difficult to get right. Some are volume based and some are weight based. Others are also 1:1, 1:2, or 1:3 ratios. At the hardware store, you can get measuring buckets but they're really large for what you're doing. I got a little 100ml cup on amazon to measure resin
Oh you mentioned smoothon silicone was 50 dollars, you can get cheaper versions. Dragon skin is a particularly tough platinum based silicone used for props, it's meant to take a beating and it's one of the more expensive options. They have cheaper silicones for around 20ish-30 something dollars and I think that works out cheaper than the Elmers silicon because with the full Elmers refill pack you could only get like 5 casts, with the smoothon silicon you'd have enough to do nearly 100.
heeey i did this same thing recently for a digital fabrication class at college! i made a little cat in zbrush and then turned it into a mold with fusion 360. i used xtc 3d coating on the mold to cover up the layer lines and smooth out the final product a bit, but mine still picked up a few layer lines and had some flashing as well lol. i actually was inspired by the elmer’s squishies too, i love those what a fun way to get kids interested in mold making and casting tbh. i used cheap platinum silicone from amazon, the one i used had a pink part a and blue part b so it ended up looking like a nice light blueish color. btw if anyone is interested in this project i think SLA resin can inhibit the cure of platinum silicone, at least it can according to the instruction packet of the silicone kit i bought. thats why i did it with FDM and used the xtc 3d to make the finished mold a little smoother looking :)
@@UncleJessy Just keep it to a very thin gasket of clay, squeeze the two halves together and use your thumb or a dental tool to smooth out the seam and voila
you add naphta to make silicone more stretchy and you add potato flour to make it harder, theres a point where its gonna just snap if you add to much filler like flour ,you can add really any powder you want to silicone and also oil paint or acrylics will change color of silicone, dont mix silicone with other dough type materials, silicone will bond with silicone only and mechanically will bond with with some fine powders, you can use regular silicone in tubes and submerge in water with soap which will get rid of the smell and let it cure faster
Haven't tried any of these myself. But I do know that 2 part mixes are very sensitive to proper mixing. The niub failings might go away if properly measured.
Yeah later in the video I properly measured and tested and it’s been 48+ hours and still not cured. I saw an amazon review saying it helps if you mix for 4-8 mins before pouring
@@UncleJessy Platinum silicone is very sensitive. You could have some cure inhibition going on. You have to make sure to clean out your mixing cups, and absolutely no sulfur around it as well.
I wish there was a simple tool that could take a model, offer several ways to generate a mould from it - 2, 3 or 4 part, registration marks, parting lines, sprues etc. and then generate the mould parts.
You can fill porous molds with molten paraffin. Just slosh it around and wipe out the excess and let it cool. Presumably would work the same for hiding layer lines!
I use ecoflex 00-10 a lot and it cures a little bit tacky, if you don't need that property and don't mind the appearance being dulled+matte you can slap some corn starch on it.
I'm thinking that the reason the silicone didn't cure in your silicone logo mold is because one was tin cure and the other was platinum. The two won't work together.
If you guys want to see someone awesome with mold making in resin and medical grade silicone, look up Howard Senft on UA-cam. Stallone himself commissioned him to make the Rocky. Howard also makes some other characters in his vids.
But for any object - i can just pop a box in tinker cad, set the obj I want for the mold as hollow, put it in the box, merge them and cut the box in 2. Takes like 2 minutes so why would I go buy a mold???
you're supposed to use a funnel in the hole XD these came out great though. I've used silicone caulking (like for bathrooms) for this with great success in the past. It's very cheap.
I was just randomly trying what I could find that wasn’t super expensive. Joann’s and Michael’s has the Elmer’s squishies and the amazing mold maker red silicone
@@UncleJessy lmao I can imagine "that maybe? And this and this one ? " I'll just mimic you and try some of what ever I can get my hands on ! Anyway thanks for the amazing content as always
PLEASE HELP ME UNCLE JESSY!! I love your channel and it's been a huge help to me. Can you please please help me with faster resin printimes on chitubox V1.9.4. i've seen your previous video from a few years ago but Chitubox now has additional speed boxes for the righthand colums. I have no idea how to set this up and when i last tried it sounded like i was going to break the glass plate. please can you help with a new fast resin print setting video for elegoo saturn & mars.
This is cool! I’ve been following and watching you for a couple years now. It’s crazy because I bought silicone stuff end of last year to play with this, but I got a resin printer and still learning that lol
I really enjoy these types of videos that feature fun little projects that don't require much prep work but are different enough to still be interesting. I don't know if it's ADHD or just adult responsibilities, but larger projects leave me with decision paralysis and end up sitting unfinished or unstarted for months. (I'm not at all surprised by the NIUB results. My first thought on seeing the stereotypical "alphabet soup" Amazon company name on an off-brand silicone mix was "this isn't going to end well...")
As someone coming from the squishy/diy toy community when you get things that are sticky and squishy sometimes putting cornstarch on them can help! There’s actually squishy resins out there that you have to dust with some kind of very fine powder or it’ll be sticky forever
Gee I was curious what kind of contraption you put on your printer to 3d print silicone toys :/ I think you should get a mixing syringe, rig it onto your printer and run it at snail speed :) I've seen one channel do it with resin out of an FDM, be a trail blazer lol
*HELP* i want to make brass rings and i have designed rings but where i live there's no resin printing only PLA and stuff. So should i print moulds then make silicon mould out of it then cast brass in it or not I'm very confused please help sir T-T
A year ago I expanded on my 3D printing hobby and started looking into dice making (like for D&D) so I learned a lot about silicone mold making and important tips like @zachpennington1746 mentions about tin cure vs platinum cure silicone. Anyway... Smooth-On makes a product called XTC-3D that is a type of resin that you brush on to remove layer lines. It works pretty well. Also you can go the cheap Harbor Freight way (about $100) and get a pressure pot to make sure the silicone molds don't have bubbles when the silicone cures. If you have questions, let me know. I'd be happy to share what I've learned! Oh, and another tip - cut registration keys into your silicone molds. It makes it far far easier to demold! :D
Hey, Thankyou for the awesome video, I've been trying to make molds for a while now and had no idea about the iron setting. do you use the default cure settings for this? I'm also using the Neptune 3 pro.
Use baby powder as mold release. There are different shore for harder or softer silicone. But most importantly is that platinum silicone is very picky to materials it touches to for curing, like resin printed molds is big no for platinum silicone, there is very small list of materials that are ok with platinum silicone. Use rtv silicone instead, unless you need the toy to last long. Also keep in mind all stuff is toxic, so breathing isn't great nearby especially with kids, same as 3d resin.
These cure exothermically. So smaller parts don’t generate enough heat and can’t cure. Mixing can also go wrong as it is like mixing acrylics and oils (platinum vs tin). Normally you make your mold boxes out of the silicon and pour urethane plastic.
I know these are "meant" for FDM - but for anyone out there attempting to print in resin - make note that most resins have sulfur which can introduce cure inhibition with platinum based silicones. Either use a tin-cure silicone with no worries OR coat your resin print in some sort of varnish. There are also certain resins available in which you don't need to take extra care with but do need to follow the manufacturer's guide for curing correctly in order to prevent this issue when used with platinum silicone.
It just so happens... that I have another project testing out Siraya Tech's new silicone that is made for molding resin 3d prints. But your info is 1000% helpful! Thanks!
Glad you knew the details on this. I vaguely remembered certain silicones not curing well when used with platinum molds, or vice versa. Thanks for laying out the details.
@@UncleJessy Looking forward to that, great video as always dude 🤘
@@geuis No worries, glad I could help!
Zach is very correct and the dice makers know this since they tend to resin print their master dice, then make silicone molds. There are a few options. The first one is to let your resin print really really cure up (2+ weeks or more, haven't tried it personally). Another option is to use a product like Mann Inhibit X (which seems to be the same folks as Smooth On and Reynolds Advanced Materials). This makes a barrier that completely removes the problem (have tried it personally). But it's also fairly expensive, though a can of this stuff lasts a long time. The last option is some kind of varnish or lacquer to act as a barrier (not sure on products, haven't tried it).
This would be great to create a "Flash Light" mold
*flesh
@@BabyJesus66 🤣😂 I was about to Google flash light mold 🤣😂
Materbater?
@@addmix KnobblerGobbler
Stealth 100
Uncured silicone (and epoxy resin!) actually can clean out of molds pretty well with simple Clorox wipes, no need to toss those molds. I also recommend trying out Dragon Skin 10 for silicone. It's less fussy, you can eyeball it reliably, and it's remarkably stretchy in addition to being soft. I like using the 20 version for dice molds.
Also costs considerably more but yeah smooth-on has really good casting supplies. I've cast stuff using their urathane products
@John Smith it does, yeah, but sometimes its worth the upsell for the lack of headaches
@@TaywuhsaurusRex For sure ! Their silicone for making reusable molds is top notch as well.
Also, I’d suggest against “eyeball” mixing. That’s probably why some of them are tacky. And your Uncle Jessy logo can be cleaned with Naptha. That’s the solvent you use to clean up silicone. 😊
Yes, definitely! You should follow the instructions on the label, otherwise the silicone won't cure properly, like ever.
Much much appreciated! Will be cleaning that up today!
I was overly irritated at that... "I'm not gonna do this right... Then I'm gonna complain about how it didn't work right..." Really did those two companies a disservice there.
@@BadPandaWoodworks fyi I mention towards the end and show off a properly measured mold and after 24hrs it’s still not cured. It took close to 3 days now for that mold that was measured properly to cure. All the others were good
@@UncleJessy I watched the entire video.. I know you went back and glossed over how you were going to do it the right way... But why not do it right the first time? I get the need for sensationalism on UA-cam... You want the views... But I don't get the "I'm gonna do this the wrong way first, talk about how bad it is, then go back at the end and gloss over doing it right" thing you did here. I appreciate what you're doing here, but this one leaves a bit to be desired.
FYI Smooth-On is a top tier producer of silicones for mold pours. They have good pricing and love helping out the crafting community. They have tons of Hollywood customers and a great reputation in the special effects industry.
He mentions smooth-on towards the end and mentioned he didn't want to pay $50 for silicone when he knew he wouldn't use the whole thing. But yes, I love smooth-on as well
@@Zeldur Fun fact they are based out of Easton PA right near where I grew up!
Mixing the correct ratio of the 2 parts is pretty important and you didn't look to be actually measuring any of these accurately. Likely the reason why some of them didnt fully cure.
Towards the end I did properly mix via a scale and after 48 hrs it’s still messy. Lots of reviews on Amazon saying similar with that brand unfortunately
So if I want to print silicone I have to print the plastic mold to fill with silicone
yes. you cannot (at least not today) 3d print with silicone filament.
If I recall correctly Cura has a mold box function. Would be interesting to see them compared.
Less of a mold box and more of a glove mold approach. The usefulness is questionable if you want to reuse a printed mold like this since its still printed in one piece
Remember silicone sticks to silicone so when pouring silicone into a silicone mold you'll want to apply a layer of mold release before hand
its better to get other material thats rubbery but isnt silicone, also with rigid figures you use rubbery mold, with rubbery figures you use rigid molds
The "squishy" factor of the different silicone mixes is determined by the shore hardness rating of them. The lower the number, 1-100, the squishier it will be when cured. It can be hard sometimes to find the shore hardness when shopping for a silicone mix. The red mold mix has a higher shore hardness than the Elmer's mix.
@6:30 - Love the shirt Jessy!
Pretty sure The Crafsman would have some answers and advice for ya on a lot of this. He did a series experimenting with similar ideas. That would be a great collaboration 😀
my mom: son why do you have all that beige colored silicone?
me: the less you know the better mom.
3d printed plastics often cause problems with platinum cure silicone. Giving it a dunk in some inhibit-x should help.
I usually coat my prints in wax when I want to take a mold of them.
Building a pressure chamber from a paint tank is awesome for getting rid of bubbles and it's not too expensive. There's a guy on here wearing a backwards hat that has as tutorial on how to convert it, it's easy and I use mine all the time.
I have never worked with the products you've shown but typical caulking silicone cleans up really well with methyl hydrate.
Thanks Jessy.
Thanks!
When mixing silicon most are mixed by weight, get some digital scales. Eyeballing it isn't the way to go.
Make sure to also read the materials sheet, and pay attention to temperature range required for it to cure.
A combination of incorrect measurements and temp could be why that silicon was not curing correctly.
If you decide to do a followup it would probably be worth covering some different types of silicon. Eg food safe, tear resistance, and heat resistant types.
that stickiness is likely a result of improper mixing or adding too much colorant. it will never dry out. Also, contaminates in the mold can cause no curing.
I've worked with all kinds of different silicones and I wanted to let you know there's a big difference between the platinum based silicones and the TiN based silicones. With the Platinum if there's any kind of sulfur at all it will not set properly. The platinums can be very fussy. The TiN Bass pretty much don't care if you mix the two parts together it's going to cure. I mean unless you really have a lot of contamination. Also you can get the silicone in different grades of hardness which are called A-Shore... Do some research on that pretty quick and you'll learn a lot. There are oils that can be mixed in with the silicone to lower the A-Shore number... That makes it softer, at the cost that it can tear easier.
You may want to do a search for Cine Skin which is a type of TiN silicone which approximates the feel of human skin. Give or take. I hope that helps you.
The little "trench" is just considered a mold key. Can take on pretty much any shape, just to make sure the molds are going together perfectly lined up.
100% high solids silicone needs moisture to cure so I can see sealed up containers being an issue for cure times
Looks like Uncle Jesse needs a master class by Robert Tolone. Eyeballing wasn't a great idea 😂
Dude. This is so spot on to the project ive been working on. Mindblowing that we both had the same idea with the elmers
I have been looking into doing this for the dice set my daughter created. Think I'll finally get around to do it after watching this! Thanks for the great video as always UJ!
Oh wow!!! Okay now that sounds like it could be really fun. Some squishy dice!
tbh, for platinum cure silicone, I'd stick with either smooth-on's dragon skin or platsil gel 10, most of the random silicones on amazon are pretty dodgy. It's more expensive for sure, but worth the better outcome imho.
yeah, and some are certified safe for skin and food contact.
we all knw what people are gonna use this for....
Wow!!!! My mind is 🤯🤯🤯
Hi Uncle Jesse can you please help me i need your help. I'm trying to print quite tall cylinder shapes on my elegoo saturn and the prints are saying 6hrs but the print is taking 22hrs?? i can't find anyhting on how to setup chitubox for faster printing and i know the Bottom lift speed and lifting speed have a big part to play but i'm to afraid to change these. can you please do a video showing in depth what we can do with these setting for chitubox V1.9.4. thank you so much
I love the idea of printing a mold then casting it in various methods. One thing I want to try out is creating my own head for making hats. My idea atm is scan my head, create a 3D printed mold of it, either put a crap ton of mold release or just use plastic, then putting great stuff (expanding foam) on the inside. I've heard if you sprits it with water, there will be less bubbles. This could also be a cool test in your studio to display all of the helmets.
As for the silicone, as someone else mentioned, silicone is piiicky when it comes to measuring. Eyeballing can be very difficult to get right. Some are volume based and some are weight based. Others are also 1:1, 1:2, or 1:3 ratios. At the hardware store, you can get measuring buckets but they're really large for what you're doing. I got a little 100ml cup on amazon to measure resin
Oh you mentioned smoothon silicone was 50 dollars, you can get cheaper versions. Dragon skin is a particularly tough platinum based silicone used for props, it's meant to take a beating and it's one of the more expensive options. They have cheaper silicones for around 20ish-30 something dollars and I think that works out cheaper than the Elmers silicon because with the full Elmers refill pack you could only get like 5 casts, with the smoothon silicon you'd have enough to do nearly 100.
Happy printing! 👍🏾
how did you make the mold with cnc printer? what filament type did you use for a rubber effect?
Those little lizards remind me of the characters, Bub and Bob, from Bubble Bobble. Now just need to tint the mixture green and blue!
Thanks so much never knew Elmer's made Squishies! Going to have to try this on my 3d printer!
heeey i did this same thing recently for a digital fabrication class at college! i made a little cat in zbrush and then turned it into a mold with fusion 360. i used xtc 3d coating on the mold to cover up the layer lines and smooth out the final product a bit, but mine still picked up a few layer lines and had some flashing as well lol.
i actually was inspired by the elmer’s squishies too, i love those what a fun way to get kids interested in mold making and casting tbh. i used cheap platinum silicone from amazon, the one i used had a pink part a and blue part b so it ended up looking like a nice light blueish color.
btw if anyone is interested in this project i think SLA resin can inhibit the cure of platinum silicone, at least it can according to the instruction packet of the silicone kit i bought. thats why i did it with FDM and used the xtc 3d to make the finished mold a little smoother looking :)
Also you can squish a little bit of clay between the mold half and smooth it into the mold to have no flashing
Ohhh will definitely be trying that thanks
@@UncleJessy Just keep it to a very thin gasket of clay, squeeze the two halves together and use your thumb or a dental tool to smooth out the seam and voila
That´s the method i used to make Silicone Vibration Dampers and Socks for my heatblock. Great Video! Love seeing these type of Content!
you add naphta to make silicone more stretchy and you add potato flour to make it harder, theres a point where its gonna just snap if you add to much filler like flour ,you can add really any powder you want to silicone and also oil paint or acrylics will change color of silicone, dont mix silicone with other dough type materials, silicone will bond with silicone only and mechanically will bond with with some fine powders, you can use regular silicone in tubes and submerge in water with soap which will get rid of the smell and let it cure faster
Great video,I am new to 3D printing. I wanna learn how to make 3D mold boxes for my swimbaits. What program are you using. Also, do use a 3D scanner
Haven't tried any of these myself. But I do know that 2 part mixes are very sensitive to proper mixing. The niub failings might go away if properly measured.
Yeah later in the video I properly measured and tested and it’s been 48+ hours and still not cured. I saw an amazon review saying it helps if you mix for 4-8 mins before pouring
@@UncleJessy Platinum silicone is very sensitive. You could have some cure inhibition going on. You have to make sure to clean out your mixing cups, and absolutely no sulfur around it as well.
Fun video! I love your content. Also, might I add - your hair is looking on point my man!
If you ever seen the 3-D bust of the head, that moves like a slinky this is how they made it😮3D printing is🤯
Casting with (flexible) expansive foam would be interesting too!
We are working on that next. Mold should be bigger and it's a bit of a tricky process. But we'll get it sorted - Inspyr3d
Dude this is so dope
What is the red filament? Not that you have to test the silicone reaction to the mold box filament
I wish there was a simple tool that could take a model, offer several ways to generate a mould from it - 2, 3 or 4 part, registration marks, parting lines, sprues etc. and then generate the mould parts.
So squishy! A fun project to do with my kids (especially that Kirby)
What silicone are you using ? Because when I use the silicone I got from let’s resins. The silicone doesn’t cure around my mold.
Can you design your own mold and does it take a special 3d printer to do silicon?
Are the surfaces snooty or do you have to sand them
You just have to get the dragon skin silicon, just be careful when looking it up
Surprised you didn't use the new Siriya Tech silicone.
You can fill porous molds with molten paraffin. Just slosh it around and wipe out the excess and let it cool. Presumably would work the same for hiding layer lines!
I use ecoflex 00-10 a lot and it cures a little bit tacky, if you don't need that property and don't mind the appearance being dulled+matte you can slap some corn starch on it.
You could also melt Crayons and make little crayon figures
I've molded and made crayon legos
How can we find out when they’ll restock the Elegoo Neptune 3 Max ?
I'm thinking that the reason the silicone didn't cure in your silicone logo mold is because one was tin cure and the other was platinum. The two won't work together.
If you guys want to see someone awesome with mold making in resin and medical grade silicone, look up Howard Senft on UA-cam. Stallone himself commissioned him to make the Rocky. Howard also makes some other characters in his vids.
I kinda want to see the kriby scaled up to 200% I just think that it will be awesome to see a huge squishy kriby
Where did you get the files to print? Awesome video! Want to make these for my daughter for Xmas stocking stuffers
But for any object - i can just pop a box in tinker cad, set the obj I want for the mold as hollow, put it in the box, merge them and cut the box in 2. Takes like 2 minutes so why would I go buy a mold???
got the 'Kriby' from Inspyr; however, where'd you get the squid from? My kid would love that too.
Can you use silicone from the tube at the home store?
Seems like a great way to make custom versions of those silicone wristbands.
Doesn't soft silicone always feel a bit sticky?
you're supposed to use a funnel in the hole XD
these came out great though.
I've used silicone caulking (like for bathrooms) for this with great success in the past. It's very cheap.
Tpu has left the chat-
What im tryna say is why silicone? Why not tpu
Not body safe keweke
Very professional technology~
That is dope once again but, once again, how do you chose the silicon ?
I was just randomly trying what I could find that wasn’t super expensive. Joann’s and Michael’s has the Elmer’s squishies and the amazing mold maker red silicone
@@UncleJessy lmao I can imagine "that maybe? And this and this one ? "
I'll just mimic you and try some of what ever I can get my hands on !
Anyway thanks for the amazing content as always
Feels like the resin printers would be an ideal option for printing the molds (due to the smaller layer lines)
silicone can have problems with resin but they're pretty easily worked around
@@Cozmox874 interesting. Do you have to coat the print first then? Maybe a spray paint?
@@gbspikyfishthere's special resin for this
Great idea Jesse
I think it's pronounced "inspire". It has that "pyr" like Spyro. Pretty cool though. Please stop finding new patreons for me to join LOL
I wonder if you could do the same to make a mold for candles? Can't be that different right?
I can't get the Neptune 3 plus or the Max. Always sold out
dawg that mix job had me crying :P
a thin coating of Vaseline would help with the release, especially on your silicone logo mould.
PLEASE HELP ME UNCLE JESSY!! I love your channel and it's been a huge help to me. Can you please please help me with faster resin printimes on chitubox V1.9.4. i've seen your previous video from a few years ago but Chitubox now has additional speed boxes for the righthand colums. I have no idea how to set this up and when i last tried it sounded like i was going to break the glass plate. please can you help with a new fast resin print setting video for elegoo saturn & mars.
Inspyr3D is pure nostalgic awesomeness, I am a happy subscriber. 👍⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Isn‘t ironing only useful on the very top layer?
yeah, not sure what he was thinking
Cool shirt! My favorite concert was in Rochester.
This is cool! I’ve been following and watching you for a couple years now. It’s crazy because I bought silicone stuff end of last year to play with this, but I got a resin printer and still learning that lol
This was epic and makes me want a 3D printer. Didn't think about mold making from a 3D printer
Those trenches are called “registration key”.
This could be a cool way to make the soft armor on things like halo Spartan armor.
1000% smooth on also makes some pourable foam that I need to try
I really enjoy these types of videos that feature fun little projects that don't require much prep work but are different enough to still be interesting. I don't know if it's ADHD or just adult responsibilities, but larger projects leave me with decision paralysis and end up sitting unfinished or unstarted for months.
(I'm not at all surprised by the NIUB results. My first thought on seeing the stereotypical "alphabet soup" Amazon company name on an off-brand silicone mix was "this isn't going to end well...")
As someone coming from the squishy/diy toy community when you get things that are sticky and squishy sometimes putting cornstarch on them can help! There’s actually squishy resins out there that you have to dust with some kind of very fine powder or it’ll be sticky forever
Gee I was curious what kind of contraption you put on your printer to 3d print silicone toys :/ I think you should get a mixing syringe, rig it onto your printer and run it at snail speed :) I've seen one channel do it with resin out of an FDM, be a trail blazer lol
can you use these to make gummies?
*HELP* i want to make brass rings and i have designed rings but where i live there's no resin printing only PLA and stuff. So should i print moulds then make silicon mould out of it then cast brass in it or not I'm very confused please help sir T-T
Thank you so much for making this video. I've been looking into using silicon to make my own rings and figures from my prints.
Oh some silicone rings could be fun
@Uncle Jessy I think so. There isn't many unique ones out there. I want to make something else. That's my goal
A year ago I expanded on my 3D printing hobby and started looking into dice making (like for D&D) so I learned a lot about silicone mold making and important tips like @zachpennington1746 mentions about tin cure vs platinum cure silicone. Anyway... Smooth-On makes a product called XTC-3D that is a type of resin that you brush on to remove layer lines. It works pretty well. Also you can go the cheap Harbor Freight way (about $100) and get a pressure pot to make sure the silicone molds don't have bubbles when the silicone cures. If you have questions, let me know. I'd be happy to share what I've learned!
Oh, and another tip - cut registration keys into your silicone molds. It makes it far far easier to demold! :D
Damn it Jessy! I have SOOOO many projects going on and yet here I am researching molds and silicone. LOL Why u do dis? LOL
Hey, Audio is Perfect now volume still feels a tad high
Do the Elmer's Squishies dry out over time?
Hey, Thankyou for the awesome video, I've been trying to make molds for a while now and had no idea about the iron setting. do you use the default cure settings for this? I'm also using the Neptune 3 pro.
What about using a .08 or 1.0 layer to see if it will be less noticeable
hey, how about gaseous melt nozzle instead of just liquid melt nozzle, yes it will jet the plastic as gas, ink-jet 3d printing
For a one off the Elmer’s is probably the best deal instead of spending less and wasting unused.
Yeah I really didn’t want to spend $50 on dragon skin and not use it all. Plus the squishies mix is at my local Walmart. Super convenient
Use baby powder as mold release. There are different shore for harder or softer silicone. But most importantly is that platinum silicone is very picky to materials it touches to for curing, like resin printed molds is big no for platinum silicone, there is very small list of materials that are ok with platinum silicone. Use rtv silicone instead, unless you need the toy to last long. Also keep in mind all stuff is toxic, so breathing isn't great nearby especially with kids, same as 3d resin.
These cure exothermically. So smaller parts don’t generate enough heat and can’t cure. Mixing can also go wrong as it is like mixing acrylics and oils (platinum vs tin). Normally you make your mold boxes out of the silicon and pour urethane plastic.