I’m new to modeling and so appreciate the time you took to explain and demonstrate the Static King. I received one for Christmas with the power supply and have been anxious to try it out. Thank you for sharing!
hey Boomer, my favourite thing about you, has always been... that no matter what, you always make time to read feedback and reply. most guys get subscribers and act like pre-madonnas. i know it's probably alot of work. but it also means alot to be able to let you know how much we appreciate all that you've taught us so far. 🤘🏻thanks again
Thank You Weston, I appreciate that. My wife told me when I started the channel to answer every comment ;-). I feel it is important for the sake of the community. I want to respect them for taking the time to write, etc. This community is fantastic. I am really blessed by it as well. It does take some work but I actually love reading all the comments. Everyone is cool. Even if they are not, I love them anyway . . . lol. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Wall warts, the plug-in power supply, are cheap and plentiful at most thrift stores. They'll often have just a big box of them, but sometimes they might have boxes sorted by output voltage. Our local one has them from $2-$5. Match up the voltage you need and the right barrel connector size, and you're in business. The one caveat is to ensure the polarity on the plug, is correct for the device.
It’s encouraging to see this thing in action. I had a homemade one which took a couple AAs, it did ok with really short static grass but I wasn’t happy with the results with anything longer than about 4mm. I picked up the static king and the 12v power supply for it, but have not tried it yet. Right about the time I got it, I needed to move my layout and scenery work stopped dead in its track. Thanks for sharing this. I now know I don’t have an 80 dollar hunk of junk waiting for me!
You have a fantastic static applicator in this model. It's marvelous. I love the thing. It helps to transform the layout in a remarkable way. You will see once you start to play with it. There is a small learning curve but it's worth every penny in my opinion. Cheers.
Love your channel Boomer. You’ve encouraged me to take chances. Getting the 12v power supply for the Static Grass applicator was a game changer. The 9 volt battery just wasn’t cutting it. Thank you!
Luke has some interesting ways to make trees also. I have made some trees with his method, now I am learning from you. Yep, we all learn from each other!
Incredible. First read about the use of a static grass applicator that you can make yourself in Model Railroad Craftsman. Your how-to-use-it video of one that is commercially available really filled in the gaps of what you need to know. Informative as always. Many thanks.
I remember well that article. I.suppose it should work with any static fiber: wool, haïr, fur. What an idea to try with those, different lenghts and shapes that can be cut, tinter painted etc may be with different grille holes sizes in applicator. Worth a try for your cow field with "blobs" of manure and thick grass. Thanks Boomer for the show..
I have been using Luke's method for the last 18 months, even trying his 3mm plywood template to keep the tufts vertical (found this to be more trouble than I really wanted). I have ended up making more tufts for friends and my club than for me, but as you say, static grass is relatively cheap. Most of the tufts that i make are for N scale, so the longest grass that I use is 7mm. I originally used simple PVA glue as the tuft base, but have switched over to using Mod Podge as my base - the matt medium is a much better base for tufts. I am now using a method that I first saw on Martin Wellberg's channel to apply my grass over larger areas - it effectively allows you to create tufts of grass over an area, then add different tufts mixed in with the already applied grass, really gives a great look for poorly maintained grass areas which are typical around railroad tracks. Loving your approach to making your scenery.
I actually like it when the grass blades fall to the side. This way the edges always look right. Especially when you do ruts and overhangs etc. Cheers.
I use ~ 1mm thick cardboard templates and it works a lot better. You don't need the fibers to be completely vertical, you just want to prevent the stuff around the perimeter from laying flat. It also helps to lift the template straight off the tufts before the glue sets up, this will pull the fibers up as well.
Luke is how I found your channel.... he is an amazing modeler. His earlier work made me feel a novice like me could do it. Now that he's upped his modeling game with the couple of resin printers he has I feel he's playing in a league that the average modeler will go broke trying to keep up with, lmao! But man oh man is he good.. im happy that he's in that space he deserves it.
Luke was one of my first subscribers believe it or not. I think he was number 36 or something. The thing with Luke is, he has to keep upping his game, otherwise revenue falls off. The channel dies on the vine so-to -speak. The whole content creator social media culture is a double edged sword. You start out loving it as anyone would, and then it becomes an obligation, and then it become a job. I love the art form. I always have and I never seem to tire of it. It's the only time I feel whole as a person when I am practicing "The Art of the Diorama." Cheers ~ Boomer.
Another great video Boomer. Instead of tape, try magnets, works great. Also, pinch and stab 12mm and 7mm works on parchment paper too. I just apply a combo of 2mm and 4mm from the static applicator after to tie things in. Makes the mosaic tufting go a little faster.
Thanks for the great information! I've been wondering whether or not to get one of these and this helped me decide to finally spring for one. Those packages are too darned expensive and you don't get that much in them.
You had better luck than I did. You are correct about the battery, 5 minutes and it won’t stand 4mm. My 12v adaptor didn’t work. Something wrong with the unit. Still lots of room for improvement.
Thank you. I love the copper wire extension. I use it again in the coming "Chain Link" fence tutorial and you will see how convenient it is in tight spaces. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Tip; you can color the matt medium - green/light/dark or brown/light/dark - short/turf lightly then go back over with longer diff color. Verity works like layers of color. Like your paint .. mixing more natural. Love your work .. keep sharing. Enjoy.
Was thinking about getting the Woodland Scenics one, think I'm now sold on it, even though it's $150 here in Australia, should be money well spent, thanks for another great video...Reid 👍
Make your own... Loads cheaper and you have the opportunity to use a more powerful Negative Ion Generator. Luke Towan has a few videos on rolling your own and they are very good. I've built several (most before Luke was a thing). My most recent unit uses a 30kV Negative Ion Generator. The higher the kV, the more charge it provides and the better the grass will stand up.
@@ReidsTrainStuff It's a lot easier than most people think... The toughest part about it is buying the soldering iron and finding the will to use it. After that, use the right solder, and plenty of the appropriate flux, and that's not rocket science either. Plenty of UA-cam vids on soldering electrical/electronics.
@@WHJeffB I'm ok with soldering on basic stuff, do decoders all the time, might re watch that video see what I need and give it a go, only way to learn is to do it.
As you can tell, I'm catching up on your videos. . . . Great lesson! I haven't bought a package of tufts two years! Two ideas to share: first, I sift my grass before putting it in the applicator; the grass tends to come out easier. Second, I've heard that carpet tac works very well for the adhesive base for tufts - haven't tried that yet, but probably will. I'll let you know the results.
Hey Boomer, Nicely done! I always let my matte medium, or Modge Podge set up a bit before I shake it out…”you just have to be patient with these things…”🤣👍
I ended up making one for about 12 dollars if memory serves. Trying to stomach the initial outlay for a factory one. It works just as well. If one thinks out of the box there's a lot to be done within the hobby inexpensively.
That's cheap! My last one cost me about $65US, but only because I used a hi-power negative ion generator (30kV) meant for higher end products, rather than one of the cheap, lower power units found on eBay.
I did see Luke Towan's video on this but had forgotten the tray method. Thanks to Luke and to yourself for the reminder. I found mixing a tiny bit of the very fine (finest) ground foam in with the static grass for shorter (2mm to 5mm static grass) gives a good result too. Probably not so with longer grass. I've yet to be able to put seed heads on my dead longer grass tufts or flower buds on the green stalks......Any tips?
Yes it does, but the main advantage is the electrical static field charge it creates around the paper. The static grass performs better this way. Cheers.
If I used one of my wives cooking pans for model trains I would be eating a lot of peanut butter and jelly, Bahaha.Cheers great stuff ,keep up the great job
Do the tufts come off easily? I've used non silicon baking sheets (didn't know silicon existed) and I had lots of trouble removing the tufts. Last lot I did on glass, that worked well and I could scrape them off easily. I tried lighter green long with darker short grass which seemed to work well. I'll look out for the silicon sheets.
Hi Mike! Just wanted you to know that I tried Boomer’s tuft method from a previous video - just parchment paper without the pan. I used Mod Podge matte medium…and it worked perfectly. The tufts and lines of grass I created peeled right off.
Won't the parchment paper from the roll work also or is there a different between the two; I'm not talking about wax paper; the parchment paper that comes in a roll like the wax paper does.
Another tip... Instead of taping the parchment to the metal (steel) cookie sheet, buy multi-pack of the small rare earth magnets and use those to hold the parchment down instead.
Just a quick question. How long after the static applicator has done its job before the tufts can be removed from the parchment paper to apply to the layout?
Hi Boomer~I'm a good month behind in watching but I savor each and every one of your entries. Like Weston Overland (below), I truly appreciate your taking the time to respond to comments. I know this "project" is a labour of love for you, else you wouldn't be doing it, so I, along with the many hundreds of others, appreciate all your efforts. Thank you. I do have a question for you. I'm at the backdrop stage of a small shelf layout (11'3" x 18" x 16" high, roughly the size of Glover Road). There are many, many techniques in constructing a backdrop. Of course, there are photos. But when you get into painting a backdrop, it seems just about everyone talks about feathering the lighter low horizon with the darker sky (by the way, I'm using the Air Blue you're using). I see the merit in doing that because that's the way it looks outside. But I'm wondering about the practicality of that, with both a shallow layout depth and a short height. [By the way, my actual layout viewing height is at eye level.] On The Immersive Model Railroad, it looks like you went Air Blue all the way, bottom to top. And I get that because you have all the warehouse structures right at the wall, effectively blocking the horizon. I may have a few buildings that block the horizon but mostly it will be foliage. I'd have to go back to Glover Road to see how you did that, but I suspect it is the same. I don't necessarily need a lengthy written answer from you--that takes a lot of your time--and perhaps you address this in the videos I've left to see, but with your great artistic eye, if you could talk about this at some point, it would be most appreciative. Sorry for the length of this. Thanks.
Thanks for asking and sharing your thoughts. When it comes to backdrops I take the "less is better" approach. One thing I do emphasize is to use "curved" corners if you run two sections at right angle's like I have done with River Road. With a narrow layout like this, I see no need to "feather" color because I stage props (building flats, etc.) to fill the horizon space. How many times do we pay attention to the sky horizon when we operate, or stand by rail fanning in the real world? I don't. I find the imagination fills in the sky subconsciously when it is rendered as "negative" space (in this case, "Air Blue"). Painting backdrops (unless you can really master the art), end up looking cliché, or silly in most cases, in my opinion and experience. But have at it if you desire! I have done it in the past, but probably won't bother ever again. I am more concerned with the foreground features (first 50-100 yards), than the background. I like to view the model railroad as a shallow stage with actors, not a lengthy vista. However, I will make exceptions if I am forced to do so. I hope that helps some. Cheers ~ Boomer.
@@boomerdiorama I agree with you. I should have stated that for me painting a backdrop will be blue sky only, maybe some clouds but I don't know. My backdrop will be styrene and it will be coved. Thanks.
HELP I must de doing something wrong I bought the Woodland scenics static king and it useless for grass over 2mm. I'm using Woodland scenics tac to stick the grass and the ground cable on the base next to where I'm applying grass but 70% of the grass is flat. Any advice? I would be most grateful Thanks
@@bodienutt1 There is a remarkable difference in performance. You need the transformer. It's a little more cumbersome to use with the extra cable in the way but makes a huge difference. I find the static applicator has a bit of a learning curve as well and worked best with the shorter grasses like 2,4,7 mm. I "Pinch & Stab" in the 12mm for tufts etc. by hand.😁
Thanks for asking. You need to use "Parchment" paper and "Liquitex" matte medium. If you did. The tufts should pull off easily. Then use the same matte medium to glue them down. Phone or order from the Intercity Trains & Hobbies (Web Page) and they will send it to you. Cheers.
Yes. I have been "shocked" once or twice. To be honest with you, I don't use the device much and prefer to "pinch-and-stab" the tufts, etc. into place by hand. It looks more natural that way.
Tip; use waxed paper or butcher paper, clip ground onto paper and try no metal needed. Plastic tops under paper help, but wood works too. Been doing this for the club for years. You can reuse material over and mix/stretch like your paints. Enjoy
What do you do when your package of grass is very clumped or compressed when you first open up the package you’ve bought? I’m not getting the simple success that is evident in your video
If anyone can actually find a Static King in the $80.00 range…please post a link! I can’t locate one for much less than $150.00 once taxes and shipping are added.
Wow! They must have gone up in price. I do think it to be one of the best "tool" investments for the model railroad though. It's an essential scenery tool. ~ Boomer.
Ive never really seen how these work, Impressive, once the matte medium has dried you simply lift off each one and glue them down, ? Im still going thru your channel so maybe i havent seen that particular video yet. Can you get zapped accidentily?😢
I just pull the tufts off the parchment paper and use the same matte medium to glue them down. Yes. You can get zapped (lightly) if you squeeze the probe (alligator clip) tightly in your hand.😆
I have the same issue, I can't get ANY size grass to stand up. Replaced the applicator but still get the same result. There is static in the hopper but all the static grass just falls out flat! Any ideas?
Thanks!
Wow! thank you!👍
I’m new to modeling and so appreciate the time you took to explain and demonstrate the Static King. I received one for Christmas with the power supply and have been anxious to try it out. Thank you for sharing!
It's a great tool! Hope you have fun with it.
hey Boomer, my favourite thing about you, has always been... that no matter what, you always make time to read feedback and reply. most guys get subscribers and act like pre-madonnas. i know it's probably alot of work. but it also means alot to be able to let you know how much we appreciate all that you've taught us so far. 🤘🏻thanks again
Thank You Weston, I appreciate that. My wife told me when I started the channel to answer every comment ;-). I feel it is important for the sake of the community. I want to respect them for taking the time to write, etc. This community is fantastic. I am really blessed by it as well. It does take some work but I actually love reading all the comments. Everyone is cool. Even if they are not, I love them anyway . . . lol. Cheers ~ Boomer.
@@boomerdiorama that's why, you tha man 🤘🏻
thanks again for the grate tip in using the tin. I would have never thought of that.
Thank You - Luke Towan! Cheers.
Wall warts, the plug-in power supply, are cheap and plentiful at most thrift stores. They'll often have just a big box of them, but sometimes they might have boxes sorted by output voltage. Our local one has them from $2-$5. Match up the voltage you need and the right barrel connector size, and you're in business. The one caveat is to ensure the polarity on the plug, is correct for the device.
Thanks for sharing your tip!
It’s encouraging to see this thing in action. I had a homemade one which took a couple AAs, it did ok with really short static grass but I wasn’t happy with the results with anything longer than about 4mm. I picked up the static king and the 12v power supply for it, but have not tried it yet. Right about the time I got it, I needed to move my layout and scenery work stopped dead in its track. Thanks for sharing this. I now know I don’t have an 80 dollar hunk of junk waiting for me!
You have a fantastic static applicator in this model. It's marvelous. I love the thing. It helps to transform the layout in a remarkable way. You will see once you start to play with it. There is a small learning curve but it's worth every penny in my opinion. Cheers.
Love your channel Boomer. You’ve encouraged me to take chances. Getting the 12v power supply for the Static Grass applicator was a game changer. The 9 volt battery just wasn’t cutting it. Thank you!
It sure does make a difference for sure. Glad to hear it. Cheers.
You’ve given me great ideas just what I needed many thanks and happy new year for 2023
Happy new year!
Luke has some interesting ways to make trees also. I have made some trees with his method, now I am learning from you. Yep, we all learn from each other!
That is awesome!
Thanks for a great tutorial! You make amazing scenery and models to attainable for the average modeler. I really appreciate it!
Thank you very much!
Hi Boomer that was excellent. Those grass tufs turned out well. I have to try that out. Thanks for sharing.- Nicholas.
Fore sure. It's a fantastic tool top have when you dive into scenery.
Incredible. First read about the use of a static grass applicator that you can make yourself in Model Railroad Craftsman. Your how-to-use-it video of one that is commercially available really filled in the gaps of what you need to know. Informative as always. Many thanks.
Thank you very much! It is a bit pricey but once you use it a few times you realize the silver lining in it. Cheers.
I remember well that article.
I.suppose it should work with any static fiber: wool, haïr, fur. What an idea to try with those, different lenghts and shapes that can be cut, tinter painted etc may be with different grille holes sizes in applicator. Worth a try for your cow field with "blobs" of manure and thick grass.
Thanks Boomer for the show..
Awesome tutorial, and will save money for sure!
You can get real creative with the shapes of the tufts a well!
Thanks!
Thank you!😁
I have been using Luke's method for the last 18 months, even trying his 3mm plywood template to keep the tufts vertical (found this to be more trouble than I really wanted). I have ended up making more tufts for friends and my club than for me, but as you say, static grass is relatively cheap. Most of the tufts that i make are for N scale, so the longest grass that I use is 7mm. I originally used simple PVA glue as the tuft base, but have switched over to using Mod Podge as my base - the matt medium is a much better base for tufts.
I am now using a method that I first saw on Martin Wellberg's channel to apply my grass over larger areas - it effectively allows you to create tufts of grass over an area, then add different tufts mixed in with the already applied grass, really gives a great look for poorly maintained grass areas which are typical around railroad tracks.
Loving your approach to making your scenery.
I actually like it when the grass blades fall to the side. This way the edges always look right. Especially when you do ruts and overhangs etc. Cheers.
I use ~ 1mm thick cardboard templates and it works a lot better. You don't need the fibers to be completely vertical, you just want to prevent the stuff around the perimeter from laying flat. It also helps to lift the template straight off the tufts before the glue sets up, this will pull the fibers up as well.
Luke is how I found your channel.... he is an amazing modeler. His earlier work made me feel a novice like me could do it. Now that he's upped his modeling game with the couple of resin printers he has I feel he's playing in a league that the average modeler will go broke trying to keep up with, lmao! But man oh man is he good.. im happy that he's in that space he deserves it.
Luke was one of my first subscribers believe it or not. I think he was number 36 or something. The thing with Luke is, he has to keep upping his game, otherwise revenue falls off. The channel dies on the vine so-to -speak. The whole content creator social media culture is a double edged sword. You start out loving it as anyone would, and then it becomes an obligation, and then it become a job. I love the art form. I always have and I never seem to tire of it. It's the only time I feel whole as a person when I am practicing "The Art of the Diorama." Cheers ~ Boomer.
Another great video Boomer. Instead of tape, try magnets, works great. Also, pinch and stab 12mm and 7mm works on parchment paper too. I just apply a combo of 2mm and 4mm from the static applicator after to tie things in. Makes the mosaic tufting go a little faster.
Sounds great! Cheers!
Thanks for the great information! I've been wondering whether or not to get one of these and this helped me decide to finally spring for one. Those packages are too darned expensive and you don't get that much in them.
Actually static grass goes a long ways if you mix it up and spread it out some.😁
You had better luck than I did. You are correct about the battery, 5 minutes and it won’t stand 4mm. My 12v adaptor didn’t work. Something wrong with the unit. Still lots of room for improvement.
It seems to be hit or miss at times. On a good day it works great though. I also usually follow up with a vacuum to stand it up more as well.
Good video and a great tip on using the copper wire, thank you.
Thank you. I love the copper wire extension. I use it again in the coming "Chain Link" fence tutorial and you will see how convenient it is in tight spaces. Cheers ~ Boomer.
@@boomerdiorama I'll be watching for it.
Tip; you can color the matt medium - green/light/dark or brown/light/dark - short/turf lightly then go back over with longer diff color. Verity works like layers of color. Like your paint .. mixing more natural. Love your work .. keep sharing. Enjoy.
Sounds good. I just airbrush later. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama Yes, the airbrush has opened a whole new dimension for me.
Was thinking about getting the Woodland Scenics one, think I'm now sold on it, even though it's $150 here in Australia, should be money well spent, thanks for another great video...Reid 👍
It's the best model railroad investment you will ever make if you get into the scenery part. The things one can do with it are awesome. Cheers.
Make your own... Loads cheaper and you have the opportunity to use a more powerful Negative Ion Generator. Luke Towan has a few videos on rolling your own and they are very good. I've built several (most before Luke was a thing). My most recent unit uses a 30kV Negative Ion Generator. The higher the kV, the more charge it provides and the better the grass will stand up.
@@WHJeffB should look into that, I've watched that video, but that electronic stuff always worries me, not something I'm good at.
@@ReidsTrainStuff It's a lot easier than most people think... The toughest part about it is buying the soldering iron and finding the will to use it. After that, use the right solder, and plenty of the appropriate flux, and that's not rocket science either. Plenty of UA-cam vids on soldering electrical/electronics.
@@WHJeffB I'm ok with soldering on basic stuff, do decoders all the time, might re watch that video see what I need and give it a go, only way to learn is to do it.
Great video. I am sold. I know what I want for Xmas now. Nice tutorial.
Glad it was helpful! Once you make half a dozen sheets of tufts the unit pays for itself in short order. Cheers - Boomer.
Very good review, thanks for doing this!
Sure thing. Cheers. 😁
I used Luke's diy static applicator vid to make my own and its amazing for the price I paid for it. Making your own tuffs is the way to go.
DIY applicators work well enough. I can do it without a static grass applicator in a pinch as well. ;-)
As you can tell, I'm catching up on your videos. . . . Great lesson! I haven't bought a package of tufts two years! Two ideas to share: first, I sift my grass before putting it in the applicator; the grass tends to come out easier. Second, I've heard that carpet tac works very well for the adhesive base for tufts - haven't tried that yet, but probably will. I'll let you know the results.
Sifting the grass sounds great! Cheers.
I know what's going on my Christmas list! Luke made a video on how to make one.
Good ol' Luke Towan. What a remarkable modeler that young man is. He understands the traditional model even in this post-modern world.
Nice update thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
@@boomerdiorama Thank you very much for replying to my comment. I have a new video out now. Hope you like and share.
Hey Boomer,
Nicely done! I always let my matte medium, or Modge Podge set up a bit before I shake it out…”you just have to be patient with these things…”🤣👍
It's great stuff for sure! Cheers
Just brought one here in nz,cheapest I found was $200 then $67 for power plug. Thanks for videos
Awesome!
Just opened ours today. Tried it abit on the girlfriend's new N layout.Went with the power pack out of the gate.🚂🇨🇦
Power pack is the way to go for sure. Have fun!
I like those home made tuffs because they are cheaper and you can make them any color you want
Yes! Plus you can paint them with the airbrush before you pull them as well!.
I ended up making one for about 12 dollars if memory serves. Trying to stomach the initial outlay for a factory one. It works just as well. If one thinks out of the box there's a lot to be done within the hobby inexpensively.
Yes. We all save in one area to justify spending in another. I built "Glover Road" with pennies. All stuff I had laying around.
That's cheap! My last one cost me about $65US, but only because I used a hi-power negative ion generator (30kV) meant for higher end products, rather than one of the cheap, lower power units found on eBay.
I did see Luke Towan's video on this but had forgotten the tray method. Thanks to Luke and to yourself for the reminder. I found mixing a tiny bit of the very fine (finest) ground foam in with the static grass for shorter (2mm to 5mm static grass) gives a good result too. Probably not so with longer grass. I've yet to be able to put seed heads on my dead longer grass tufts or flower buds on the green stalks......Any tips?
Yes. Mix it up is great idea! Cheers.
Can you make a video about static grass flowers? I'd be greatly appreciative!!!
Great suggestion!
Hey Warren I started watching this and thought I know that Voice!! Wes Turnbull
Hey Wes. I hope all is well in Powel River! Cheers ~ Boomer.
Excellent ! Merci beaucoup 😊 from France 🇫🇷
Fun, fun, fun!
Your video across the world ! Merci 🤩
@@franckb473 Sounds cool! Cheers.
The metal pan is a great idea to catch the excess static grass because it goes everywhere!!!
Yes it does, but the main advantage is the electrical static field charge it creates around the paper. The static grass performs better this way. Cheers.
Thanks for sharing. Yeah I did see Luke's video and I made some this way. You mentioned using water? Can you share how you use water? Thanks.
Watered down glue (matte medium). You dab it heavy on the layout and lay grass. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama Okay I think. See if I can try that.
I have a question about the power supply - can it be replaced with a regular power supply? Or do I need to buy a special one dedicated to this model?
I think any 12 volt power supply would work. You can find cheap power supplies at the thrift stores. This one is 12 volts - 1.5 amps.
Another great tutorial 😀👍
Thank you! Cheers!
If I used one of my wives cooking pans for model trains I would be eating a lot of peanut butter and jelly, Bahaha.Cheers great stuff ,keep up the great job
Hopefully she misses the video . . . lol.
Do you think that the 9 volt would work better/longer for smaller grass? Those are pretty cool. Thanks for the tips.
It does work for shorter grass (for a short duration), but it's lame performance compared to the 35 dollar transformer (made for it), is superior.
Do the tufts come off easily? I've used non silicon baking sheets (didn't know silicon existed) and I had lots of trouble removing the tufts. Last lot I did on glass, that worked well and I could scrape them off easily. I tried lighter green long with darker short grass which seemed to work well. I'll look out for the silicon sheets.
Hi Mike! Just wanted you to know that I tried Boomer’s tuft method from a previous video - just parchment paper without the pan. I used Mod Podge matte medium…and it worked perfectly. The tufts and lines of grass I created peeled right off.
@@70rrsteve51 The glue may have been the problem I now use Mod Podge but used straight PVA before.
They practically fall off. Initially, the tufts hold well enough so you can airbrush them as well. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Won't the parchment paper from the roll work also or is there a different between the two; I'm not talking about wax paper; the parchment paper that comes in a roll like the wax paper does.
Yes, absolutely it will! I just happened to have these around and they were convenient. Cheers.
Another tip... Instead of taping the parchment to the metal (steel) cookie sheet, buy multi-pack of the small rare earth magnets and use those to hold the parchment down instead.
Just a quick question. How long after the static applicator has done its job before the tufts can be removed from the parchment paper to apply to the layout?
I let it kick overnight. Twelve hours should do with a fan on it.
thanks. Cheers!
Hi Boomer~I'm a good month behind in watching but I savor each and every one of your entries. Like Weston Overland (below), I truly appreciate your taking the time to respond to comments. I know this "project" is a labour of love for you, else you wouldn't be doing it, so I, along with the many hundreds of others, appreciate all your efforts. Thank you. I do have a question for you. I'm at the backdrop stage of a small shelf layout (11'3" x 18" x 16" high, roughly the size of Glover Road). There are many, many techniques in constructing a backdrop. Of course, there are photos. But when you get into painting a backdrop, it seems just about everyone talks about feathering the lighter low horizon with the darker sky (by the way, I'm using the Air Blue you're using). I see the merit in doing that because that's the way it looks outside. But I'm wondering about the practicality of that, with both a shallow layout depth and a short height. [By the way, my actual layout viewing height is at eye level.] On The Immersive Model Railroad, it looks like you went Air Blue all the way, bottom to top. And I get that because you have all the warehouse structures right at the wall, effectively blocking the horizon. I may have a few buildings that block the horizon but mostly it will be foliage. I'd have to go back to Glover Road to see how you did that, but I suspect it is the same. I don't necessarily need a lengthy written answer from you--that takes a lot of your time--and perhaps you address this in the videos I've left to see, but with your great artistic eye, if you could talk about this at some point, it would be most appreciative. Sorry for the length of this. Thanks.
Thanks for asking and sharing your thoughts. When it comes to backdrops I take the "less is better" approach. One thing I do emphasize is to use "curved" corners if you run two sections at right angle's like I have done with River Road. With a narrow layout like this, I see no need to "feather" color because I stage props (building flats, etc.) to fill the horizon space. How many times do we pay attention to the sky horizon when we operate, or stand by rail fanning in the real world? I don't. I find the imagination fills in the sky subconsciously when it is rendered as "negative" space (in this case, "Air Blue"). Painting backdrops (unless you can really master the art), end up looking cliché, or silly in most cases, in my opinion and experience. But have at it if you desire! I have done it in the past, but probably won't bother ever again. I am more concerned with the foreground features (first 50-100 yards), than the background. I like to view the model railroad as a shallow stage with actors, not a lengthy vista. However, I will make exceptions if I am forced to do so. I hope that helps some. Cheers ~ Boomer.
@@boomerdiorama I agree with you. I should have stated that for me painting a backdrop will be blue sky only, maybe some clouds but I don't know. My backdrop will be styrene and it will be coved. Thanks.
@@briankistenmacher Sounds great! Cheers.
A metal cookie sheet would have lower sides plus is larger for more area to make tufts.
Sounds good!
HELP I must de doing something wrong I bought the Woodland scenics static king and it useless for grass over 2mm. I'm using Woodland scenics tac to stick the grass and the ground cable on the base next to where I'm applying grass but 70% of the grass is flat. Any advice? I would be most grateful Thanks
Do you have the transformer as well?
@@boomerdiorama Hi thanks for your reply I don't have a transformer just the 9v battery is there a difference in performance
@@bodienutt1 There is a remarkable difference in performance. You need the transformer. It's a little more cumbersome to use with the extra cable in the way but makes a huge difference. I find the static applicator has a bit of a learning curve as well and worked best with the shorter grasses like 2,4,7 mm. I "Pinch & Stab" in the 12mm for tufts etc. by hand.😁
@@boomerdiorama thanks I will buy one and give it a go
Hi purchased one today and it worked perfectly thanks
Do you find it hard to pull of the grease paper? I tried doing it like this and found it didn’t peel of the paper it ripped off 🤷
Thanks for asking. You need to use "Parchment" paper and "Liquitex" matte medium. If you did. The tufts should pull off easily. Then use the same matte medium to glue them down. Phone or order from the Intercity Trains & Hobbies (Web Page) and they will send it to you. Cheers.
Curious - where are you located? Saskatoon, SK here.
Fort Langley British Columbia . . . just a stone throw away from the Canadian National Yale Subdivision on the Fraser River. ;-)
Surely a suitable 12V power brick can be had for more like $10?
Yes. I think so indeed. It doesn't work well without the power supply.
Any issues with it shocking you? Other applicators have this problem and I have to be careful because my afib can get triggered by electrical shock
Yes. I have been "shocked" once or twice. To be honest with you, I don't use the device much and prefer to "pinch-and-stab" the tufts, etc. into place by hand. It looks more natural that way.
Tip; use waxed paper or butcher paper, clip ground onto paper and try no metal needed. Plastic tops under paper help, but wood works too. Been doing this for the club for years. You can reuse material over and mix/stretch like your paints. Enjoy
Thanks for the tips!
You share so much and I have learned much, wanted to toss some back to you, @@boomerdiorama
@@billkrueger7549 Absolutely. Cheers.
I've done a bunch of experimentation... The metal cookie tray under the parchment works MUCH better!
@@WHJeffB I think so as well. Thanks for sharing! Cheers.
What do you do when your package of grass is very clumped or compressed when you first open up the package you’ve bought? I’m not getting the simple success that is evident in your video
The applicator works best with 7mm, 4mm, 2mm. You can use a flour sifter to loosen it up first.
Can you use wax paper for this too?
I believe you can!
Cool trick
Saves me alot of coin and time as well! Cheers.
If anyone can actually find a Static King in the $80.00 range…please post a link! I can’t locate one for much less than $150.00 once taxes and shipping are added.
Wow! They must have gone up in price. I do think it to be one of the best "tool" investments for the model railroad though. It's an essential scenery tool. ~ Boomer.
I’m thinking I’m either going to have to make one, or bite the financial bullet and buy one.
Four years ago Luke did a second video on a DIY static applicator. ua-cam.com/video/ZO1jrUL_PLU/v-deo.html
Yes. Luke's tutorials are fantastic! Cheers.
Ive never really seen how these work, Impressive, once the matte medium has dried you simply lift off each one and glue them down, ? Im still going thru your channel so maybe i havent seen that particular video yet. Can you get zapped accidentily?😢
I just pull the tufts off the parchment paper and use the same matte medium to glue them down. Yes. You can get zapped (lightly) if you squeeze the probe (alligator clip) tightly in your hand.😆
Props to Boomer on my YOU TUBE video POSTAGE STAMP Scenes
Thank you Chuck! I like the pic you have chosen to model as well. Cheers ~ Boomer.
اسم این دستگاه چیه
Cheers!
So far I cant get the grass to stand up
Try shorter grass first. Are you using the transformer? Check the electrical wand connection as well.
@@boomerdiorama I'm using the wall adapter plug & im.waving the ground underneath as I spread it
@@THOMAS81Z It should work. Maybe the unit is faulty.
I have the same issue, I can't get ANY size grass to stand up. Replaced the applicator but still get the same result. There is static in the hopper but all the static grass just falls out flat! Any ideas?
Goodness sakes, I’ll never be able to get one, I’m on SSI!
This makes me feel very sad!
I hardly use this applicator anyway. Most of my grassy areas I pinch & stab. No need for it. See here: ua-cam.com/video/RVl-LijHi6A/v-deo.html
You don't need an applicator anyway. See here: ua-cam.com/video/_0QtblgPPV4/v-deo.html
I made mine with junk that I had around my basement and a 6.00 dollars Negative Ion Generator and a old 12 Volt transformer .
Cool!
Hi
Cheers.
Hey Boomer ! Love your Channel BUT you have YET to show your face ?? Simply Curious : )) Thanks
Only one video in the River Road build shows my face. Good luck finding it . . . lol. ;-)