Hi Alan. Lots of us out here run MK 3 Mondeos. Economic, great handling and a lot simpler than later cars, hence less expensive to repair. Just wish you were still repairing more of them for us to watch.
i have a few mk3 here now as most taxis are laid up so if i get the chance i would love to do more on the mk3, i just wish i had a camera back in the day when these cars were new, thanks robert
Two years back I did the swirl flaps and the breather hose pipe on my car after watching this video, now is the time to replace the steering pump, Alan your videos are invaluable. Thank you again. By the way if you want to remove the manifold you need different sizes of extension bars, also a deep 10 mm socket to reach and undo those bolts. Also you will drop those manifold bolts many times, so a torch and a magnet is a must. I used electrical tape to hold the bolts in the socket to avoid dropping them.
I removed mine. I heard a lot of people saying it was hard to do, but I had to remove the inlet to sort out the PCV valve (installed a catch can), and found it to be a very easy job. Cutting all the bloody cable ties on the wiring loom was the hardest part! You actually can see all the manifold bolts bar one. The one mentioned near the power steering pump is visible with the pump in place. It's a matter of finding the right place to put your head. Most of the other bolts are visible by looking through the gaps between the cylinders on the manifold. You can also see two of the thermostat bolts between 1&2 as well. The invisible bolt is the one underneath the throttle body, but it's still doable by feel. There was no play or visible wear in my swirl flaps at all, but I removed them anyway.
When UK bloke says "remove driver side headlight" keep in mind where they are seated in the car.. "Right side headlamp" for the rest of the European Mondeo drivers. ;) Great, informative video!
Im impressed with your knowledge base on mondeo,s ,Its second to none,and the ease in the way you work and lack of swearing. p.s buy some little neodymium magnets off ebay and glue them inside the socket for the manifold [just an idea]
What a life saver you are , i bought a volvo v70 2008 with the ford 2.0F engine with 320 000km on the clock , after 1400km in two weeks it just started to think it has 50% ethanol mixture when its 100% unleaded fuel in it so it should be about 5-10% ethanol in it. I have a good scan tool so i checked the O2 senors and what mixture it was getting live feeded to me , running in idle 20 minutes it had 5% ethanol , i revved it to 2k rpm and it spiked to 50% ethanol. And revving it to around 4k it started to run better , I belive its the swirl flaps not opening until 4k rpm and thus fucking up the air to fuel ratio becuase it spews out more black smoke than an oil tanker. So this week im tearing down the inlet manifold and removing the swirl flaps and cleaning the PCV box and valve and replacing the hose bacuse i can see it having that split through the inlet manifold. And the front O2 sensor is brand new i can see it because it has not a speck of dirt on it. so i think i just caught the swirl flaps before they could ruin my engine. Thanks for a great teardown
@Alan Howatt Also it keeps consuming oil , is there any good fix you could recommend , ive read its often the piston rings seizing thus making it burn oil from the cylinder walls, ive been recommended filling the cylinders with diesel or wd-40 to possibly free the piston rings from the oil sludge and then changing the oil.
Remember when i got my mk3 it was making a clattering sound from the inlet manifold so i unplugged a vaccum pipe and blocked the pipe with a bolt//cured that!!! But down the line i had to change the pcv and unblock breather box/parts of the butterflies and broken bar were found in the inlet ......cured that 6 hours .....great content 😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄🔧🔧🔧🔧🔧🔧🔧STAY SAFE
I did the Tumbler flaps on my mk3 Ghia x Mondeo a few years ago as a precaution. There was only a slight bit of play on the old ones. On my mk4 petrol Mondeo I bought the complete manifold for around £70.
Great tutorial! Not needed to do the PCV valve and hose on my focus 2.0 duratec yet but this was very helpful if I need to, plus the swirl flap delete I would also do! As I'm sure mine are rattling at idle? 125k miles on mine.
I think my Mazda 6 2.0 might also suffers from worn out flaps, but I'm not 100% sure... The rattling sound my Mazda makes is only when engine is warm & on idle or during driving with low rpm or low throttle... Cold start or full throttle or higher rpm the engine sounds normal... Did your mazda have the same symptoms?
I’d say a high probability it is the swirl flaps. Not a bad job to do just time consuming. Take them out or swap out. The centre bar wears out the flaps and they fall into the chambers knackering your engine.
Those air intake manifolds are a right nightmare I had to change one on a MK2 focus as it was clogged and the swirl flaps where totalled never thought it would be such a huge job with the engine still in the engine bay and those breather pipes connected to the pcv valve I definitely ain't changing one of those again felt like smashing the windscreen 😂
Well, Alan, you are a great mechanic and funny man, so it is really fun to watch your videos :) I wish I have your knowledge and patience :) I have Mondeo mk3 1.8 SCi and that is a little bit trickier to repair, mainly due to 3 lambdas and NOx reservoir, but I love that car (till I buy something with more HP). Thanks for great videos, it really helped me ! Wish you all best.
Those PAS pipes are a curse! They are set up in such away (as you probably know) the nut is pre fitted to the pump. When the car is on the production line the pipe is pushed up into the middle and the internal snap ring locks it into place never to come out again. Had a few of these leaking at internal 'O' ring. S type Scorpios I mean Jags use this as well & we all know what sh....... they are ; )
yes what a stupid idea to have a union that won't separate from the pipe and if you order a new pipe....omg..theres no union on it, you have to buy that separate 🤪
Greetings Alan! It's like 10 years ago I had such a problem with one of these. The fitting on the pump was leaking no matter what I did. At first I didn't know that the service manual says to remove the pulley, for better access.These is a simple tool for that. And afterward, the pipe fitting you unscrew is a separate spare part. After undoing it, the seals inside (pair of seals like in a hydraulic cylinder), fail. So after removing the pump or undoing the PAS hose, you better have a new fitting on hand. You simply cut away the old fitting, screw in the new into the pump and afterwards click in the hose into the fitting. Stay safe! Milos from Serbia!
Alan you seem to know your ford diesels very well .i have a poorly smax just keep getting low boost fault coming up changed turbo cat and checked for leaks any point in direction would be good
Great video, But one question.If the flaps are left out will it affect the M.O.T. Pollution test readings???? Thanks have a nice Christmas and New Year Be Blessed.
you can redo the holes when flaps go into using high pressure gasoline hose and they will stay in place, which is what my mechanic did with my manifold
From across the pond in America i enjoy your videos. Your a real world Wrench (Spanner) turner. You think outside the Box (good thing) Appreciate your insight on these Cars. I've just bought a 2013 Focus (Mondeo)
Great video for me to watch at work 👌🏼 if you get any mk3 bumpers in stardust silver please let me know! Could really do with the front and rear. Take care Alan
Great video! Having swirl flap issues in my 2.0 2006 mazda 3 so about to remove them. This video helps greatly! Much more simple than i anticipated. Did you plug the holes within the manifold where the rod ran through? I didnt think it seemed necessary since leaving them be wouldn't cause a vacuum leak but may as well ask to be sure. Edit: Nvm saw the answer in an older comment. No need to worry about the inner holes only the outer as shown in the video.
they are designed for smooth air flow through them,,whether leaving them out would make any difference i don't know but there are also bushes in the manifold where the rod runs through..leaving the sleeves in place eliminates to remove the bushings
Well, the SCi is even more pain in the a*s when you try repairing something. I had to do the manifold unscrewing procedure for servicing the EGR pipe. There was even more trouble with the manifold screw on the left side behind the steering pump. I was not even able to see it and nobody told me the oil would just flush out the reservoir when I try to get it off. What a mess. Well, I could have guessed, but I'd never done that before. The flaps of its manifold were pretty fine, though. Even after like 210.000 kilometres but they are completely different from the standard Duratec-HE engine. I had that pain like 1 year ago. And now it's leaking oil inside the spark plug hole of cylinder 1. Cover seal has faded away I guess. Nonetheless the engine is still running and consuming oil. Can't complain much about it besides the hard time you have when screwing. :-D
Hello sir, what about the bushings? Better out? And everyone says seal hole but you put back the acuator, its sealed then? Other way what happend to accuator when sealed like mostly suggested?
hi alan great vid,have done mine so were flapless baby,the question i am asking is the egr outlet the funny looking trumpet thing on the right of the engine with the nut on,can this be removed for cleaning??does anything connect to the back of it??or can i undo the nut and pull it out cheers .tom.
i have a 2.3L turbo - I don't feel any blow-by at the dipstick during idle, however, if I pull the breather hose connected to intake I can feel puffs of air being pumped out. Is this normal behavior for these engines? Do they run slightly positive crankcase pressure? I see no other problems - no smoke etc. except I did find a bit of oil pooling near the throttle body. It's like the oil vapor is condensing there because breather hose is slightly positive. This engine confuses me!
Hello Alan, I must admit that your channel is really helpful, sorted few things easier than I thought, but I have a problem and I am stuck and hope you'll have solution for it. I own 2011. S-Max, 2.2 l tdci, 147kw, manual trans., and I have problem with revs stucking (hanging), and it knows to be really jerky when shifting gears. Also noticed that when accelerating at some point it has like a hole, or hold up and continues to accelerate after a second. Have you ever had a similar problem with it. I have changed both of cutch pedal sensors. Can be a load of stuff, MAF sensor, or who knows what. No codes on diagnostics, only thing that I noticed is that Hill Launch is not available(not sure that it has any relation with rev hang) Thanks in advance
Hi Alan, I have a Mondeo Mk5 2.0 diesel. V quick question have you ever had to remove the inlet manifold to clean due to oil and carbon mix from EGR. Only ask as my Ford Transit 2011 can get quite coked up so every 30k miles or so I remove and de coke ?? Thanks and keep the great and funny videos coming your a super a mechanic.
Hi Alan. Great vid as ever :) What's your opinion of the Duratec HE engine? I picked up a MK4 pre facelift with one of those engines though not sure if it is exactly the same as the one that was in the MK3
Was never a fan of the mk3. They do have the easiest headlights to remove of any modern car though. The mk4 was a huge step forward. Great vid though,I can remember pulling the manifolds from them. Broken front springs was another,as well as the rear brake calipers that seized for fun. Engines liked to burn oil too,especially the 1.8. Oh happy memories 🤣
Alan I have a question for you. There is a FM hex (3/4"NPT) plug on the back of the engine left side of the exhaust manifold. What hex key size is it? Here in sweden we put a parking heater in that hole but I guess it's really for draining the engine of water under the head for changing head gaskets.
Yes, nice video, but what about Ford's other masterpiece a bit smaller petrol engines like HXDA, HXDB? How needed is swirl flaps, throttle body valve and airfilter box cleaning etc? Why intake manifolds are made of such kind of plastics for these cars? ☺
Hi Alan. Thank you for that great video. My engine oil level keeps dropping down low on the dipstick. It doesn't smoke nor is there any leaks I can find. Any idea what's going on? Same engine as this. I just keep topping it back up but honestly I can't imagine why it drops so much so often.
Yes, the air-fuel ratio is impacted, and by default that means the engine light will come on at some point. Also, lower RPMs will run leaner (thus the engine light and eventual P0171 code indicating such), thus there is a loss of power at low RPMs. I actually had to replace my entire intake manifold and after a day or so, this is exactly what happened for me. Either you change the air-fuel ratio by way of an ECU flash/tune or you need to have the swirl flaps replaced. The small vacuum hoses connect to two parts that are integral to the intake manifold. Those parts are the IMRC and the actuator that the metal rod is connected. The swirl flaps, driven by that actuator, performs somewhat like a secondary throttle body, because it manages air that is not only coming from the intake housing, but also recirculated air from the PCV and vacuum that is all collected within the manifold before it enters the cylinders.
Thanks for the video. The PCV hose is split on my car but seems not to be leaking (running ok and no code). Apparently, it is possible to replace the PCV hose on a 2005-2007 Ford Focus / Mondeo MK#3 with a 2.0 Duratec without removing the intake manifold. See posts #151-159 on this thread - www.focusfanatics.com/threads/duratec-intake-manifold-removal-and-pcv-hose-replacement.212938/page-8 . It appears like that it would take a fraction of the time for R&R of the intake manifold. My car is not exactly a keeper. I know it that it is not the right fix but couldn't I just disconnect and plug the line to the vacuum actuator that operates the swirl flaps ? Default with swirl flaps open and immobilized ?
Hy I have a litle problem with my car (mondeo mk3 tdci..B5y) Last week, in one day, when i try to start the engine ...was 10 to 15sec lag in rotation ...and some smog like, in this video........ mondeo 3 engine start with lag After this day, the problem was ....every day ...early in the morning...before i want to go to my job....or when i left the car ...for 3/5 hours After this lag engine, engine start and work ok. What can i do? I have problem with flywheel ...clutch...and i need to change this part I don't have any errors code if i put a tester....(Icarsoft i920) or if i used forscan with another obd interface. Can be a problem with a crankshaft sensor? or ?
I have a ford ranger with the 2.3 duratec, bought it with 130k miles on it and it had a fairly loud ticking/rattling from the IMRC flaps. Took them out and solved the problem, there is a slight low end power loss when you do this that I noticed.
also i doubt they would damage the engine if they failed as there only nylon and would get broken 2 bits , still not ideal though, metal flaps though and its ,,,,good bye engine, as scotty kilmer would say lol, keep up the videos alan
If you remove the flaps ,the cold start can be rogh or i am rong .if someone do it on ford focus mk2.5 2009 2.0 i and don't have problems can answer me please 😃
Bloody mondeos again..lol it makes you think how they design these things... And who discovered this breather problem in the first place..Alan was it you ? does the breather issue throw an engine light ? The flap thing ..is that like the same thing with older BMWs and redheads givin ya grief again.... N x
hi neil, yes those split breather hoses can cause an engine light on, every time i have to change one i am like ffsake😫yes i am sure certain bmws do have this flaps and have the same problem ... the flaps in this ford engine were modified a number of times but they still wear and fail..bad design
Hi Alan. Lots of us out here run MK 3 Mondeos. Economic, great handling and a lot simpler than later cars, hence less expensive to repair. Just wish you were still repairing more of them for us to watch.
i have a few mk3 here now as most taxis are laid up so if i get the chance i would love to do more on the mk3, i just wish i had a camera back in the day when these cars were new, thanks robert
Two years back I did the swirl flaps and the breather hose pipe on my car after watching this video, now is the time to replace the steering pump, Alan your videos are invaluable. Thank you again. By the way if you want to remove the manifold you need different sizes of extension bars, also a deep 10 mm socket to reach and undo those bolts. Also you will drop those manifold bolts many times, so a torch and a magnet is a must. I used electrical tape to hold the bolts in the socket to avoid dropping them.
Did you fill the hole behind the actuator? Or just replace the actuator with the oring in place?
I removed mine. I heard a lot of people saying it was hard to do, but I had to remove the inlet to sort out the PCV valve (installed a catch can), and found it to be a very easy job. Cutting all the bloody cable ties on the wiring loom was the hardest part!
You actually can see all the manifold bolts bar one. The one mentioned near the power steering pump is visible with the pump in place. It's a matter of finding the right place to put your head. Most of the other bolts are visible by looking through the gaps between the cylinders on the manifold. You can also see two of the thermostat bolts between 1&2 as well.
The invisible bolt is the one underneath the throttle body, but it's still doable by feel.
There was no play or visible wear in my swirl flaps at all, but I removed them anyway.
When UK bloke says "remove driver side headlight" keep in mind where they are seated in the car.. "Right side headlamp" for the rest of the European Mondeo drivers. ;)
Great, informative video!
lol
Brits are all postmen.
Im impressed with your knowledge base on mondeo,s ,Its second to none,and the ease in the way you work and lack of swearing.
p.s buy some little neodymium magnets off ebay and glue them inside the socket for the manifold [just an idea]
thanks X-ray ...that is a brilliant idea😃
What a life saver you are , i bought a volvo v70 2008 with the ford 2.0F engine with 320 000km on the clock , after 1400km in two weeks it just started to think it has 50% ethanol mixture when its 100% unleaded fuel in it so it should be about 5-10% ethanol in it. I have a good scan tool so i checked the O2 senors and what mixture it was getting live feeded to me , running in idle 20 minutes it had 5% ethanol , i revved it to 2k rpm and it spiked to 50% ethanol. And revving it to around 4k it started to run better , I belive its the swirl flaps not opening until 4k rpm and thus fucking up the air to fuel ratio becuase it spews out more black smoke than an oil tanker. So this week im tearing down the inlet manifold and removing the swirl flaps and cleaning the PCV box and valve and replacing the hose bacuse i can see it having that split through the inlet manifold. And the front O2 sensor is brand new i can see it because it has not a speck of dirt on it. so i think i just caught the swirl flaps before they could ruin my engine. Thanks for a great teardown
@Alan Howatt Also it keeps consuming oil , is there any good fix you could recommend , ive read its often the piston rings seizing thus making it burn oil from the cylinder walls, ive been recommended filling the cylinders with diesel or wd-40 to possibly free the piston rings from the oil sludge and then changing the oil.
Hi Allan, Great vid. Helped me a lot. I’m removing my Very loose swirl flaps (& massively split PCV hose). Thanks.
Remember when i got my mk3 it was making a clattering sound from the inlet manifold so i unplugged a vaccum pipe and blocked the pipe with a bolt//cured that!!! But down the line i had to change the pcv and unblock breather box/parts of the butterflies and broken bar were found in the inlet ......cured that 6 hours .....great content 😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄🔧🔧🔧🔧🔧🔧🔧STAY SAFE
cheers cooper s ... stay safe yourself
@@alan4x valve stems next!!!!😢😢😢☕☕☕
Another great video . Spotted a mk1 mondeo V6 petrol ! Today . Not seen one for years
cheers martin
I did the Tumbler flaps on my mk3 Ghia x Mondeo a few years ago as a precaution. There was only a slight bit of play on the old ones. On my mk4 petrol Mondeo I bought the complete manifold for around £70.
Great tutorial! Not needed to do the PCV valve and hose on my focus 2.0 duratec yet but this was very helpful if I need to, plus the swirl flap delete I would also do! As I'm sure mine are rattling at idle? 125k miles on mine.
Thanks Alan. I'm off to Iceland :) haha. Great video!!
lol🤪
Ah the good old flaps. Same on the 2.0 Mazda 6. Took them out of my old one.
I think my Mazda 6 2.0 might also suffers from worn out flaps, but I'm not 100% sure...
The rattling sound my Mazda makes is only when engine is warm & on idle or during driving with low rpm or low throttle... Cold start or full throttle or higher rpm the engine sounds normal...
Did your mazda have the same symptoms?
I’d say a high probability it is the swirl flaps. Not a bad job to do just time consuming. Take them out or swap out. The centre bar wears out the flaps and they fall into the chambers knackering your engine.
@@zedman442 Thank you for Instant reply & your help :) fingers crossed its the flaps and not valves or VVT
Those air intake manifolds are a right nightmare I had to change one on a MK2 focus as it was clogged and the swirl flaps where totalled never thought it would be such a huge job with the engine still in the engine bay and those breather pipes connected to the pcv valve I definitely ain't changing one of those again felt like smashing the windscreen 😂
Well, Alan, you are a great mechanic and funny man, so it is really fun to watch your videos :) I wish I have your knowledge and patience :) I have Mondeo mk3 1.8 SCi and that is a little bit trickier to repair, mainly due to 3 lambdas and NOx reservoir, but I love that car (till I buy something with more HP). Thanks for great videos, it really helped me ! Wish you all best.
Good work grate vid you can get more room by undo the engine mount on the driver side and push the engine back
thanks scott, good idea
Those PAS pipes are a curse! They are set up in such away (as you probably know) the nut is pre fitted to the pump. When the car is on the production line the pipe is pushed up into the middle and the internal snap ring locks it into place never to come out again. Had a few of these leaking at internal 'O' ring. S type Scorpios I mean Jags use this as well & we all know what sh....... they are ; )
yes what a stupid idea to have a union that won't separate from the pipe and if you order a new pipe....omg..theres no union on it, you have to buy that separate 🤪
Greetings Alan! It's like 10 years ago I had such a problem with one of these. The fitting on the pump was leaking no matter what I did. At first I didn't know that the service manual says to remove the pulley, for better access.These is a simple tool for that. And afterward, the pipe fitting you unscrew is a separate spare part. After undoing it, the seals inside (pair of seals like in a hydraulic cylinder), fail. So after removing the pump or undoing the PAS hose, you better have a new fitting on hand. You simply cut away the old fitting, screw in the new into the pump and afterwards click in the hose into the fitting.
Stay safe! Milos from Serbia!
thanks milos, that is good information and yes this is a ford thing...to sell the pipe fitting separate to the pipe😉
Alan you seem to know your ford diesels very well .i have a poorly smax just keep getting low boost fault coming up changed turbo cat and checked for leaks any point in direction would be good
Love your videos man.
thanks george😊
Great video, But one question.If the flaps are left out will it affect the M.O.T. Pollution test readings???? Thanks have a nice Christmas and New Year Be Blessed.
you can redo the holes when flaps go into using high pressure gasoline hose and they will stay in place, which is what my mechanic did with my manifold
Another entertaining video Alan ty
cheers mr j😃
From across the pond in America i enjoy your videos. Your a real world Wrench (Spanner) turner. You think outside the Box (good thing) Appreciate your insight on these Cars. I've just bought a 2013 Focus (Mondeo)
When you remove the square rod, a hole remains between the intake ducts. Didn't you cover them? Don't they cause problems? Thanks and regards.
Great video for me to watch at work 👌🏼 if you get any mk3 bumpers in stardust silver please let me know! Could really do with the front and rear. Take care Alan
cheers ben, no worries
Any holes to fill in after the flaps are removed??
Looks like the actuator covers and seals the hole…. But I’ve seen that it needs filling….? This looks easy
Great video! Having swirl flap issues in my 2.0 2006 mazda 3 so about to remove them. This video helps greatly! Much more simple than i anticipated. Did you plug the holes within the manifold where the rod ran through? I didnt think it seemed necessary since leaving them be wouldn't cause a vacuum leak but may as well ask to be sure.
Edit: Nvm saw the answer in an older comment. No need to worry about the inner holes only the outer as shown in the video.
Worst engine you could ever have in a car. You do a good job as always. 👍👍
thanks
Alan thanks. One question. Why put the sleeves back into the inlet manifold?
they are designed for smooth air flow through them,,whether leaving them out would make any difference i don't know but there are also bushes in the manifold where the rod runs through..leaving the sleeves in place eliminates to remove the bushings
@@alan4x thank you. Keep up the good work!
@@alan4xThought bushings should be removed too?
Well, the SCi is even more pain in the a*s when you try repairing something. I had to do the manifold unscrewing procedure for servicing the EGR pipe. There was even more trouble with the manifold screw on the left side behind the steering pump. I was not even able to see it and nobody told me the oil would just flush out the reservoir when I try to get it off. What a mess. Well, I could have guessed, but I'd never done that before. The flaps of its manifold were pretty fine, though. Even after like 210.000 kilometres but they are completely different from the standard Duratec-HE engine. I had that pain like 1 year ago. And now it's leaking oil inside the spark plug hole of cylinder 1. Cover seal has faded away I guess. Nonetheless the engine is still running and consuming oil. Can't complain much about it besides the hard time you have when screwing. :-D
Where about is you garage ?
I need my petrol breather pipe under the inlet manifold replaced,and also remove the flaps.
I leave a like because you removed the f. flaps.
Hello sir, what about the bushings? Better out? And everyone says seal hole but you put back the acuator, its sealed then? Other way what happend to accuator when sealed like mostly suggested?
How much does this impact performance? I’ve removed my swirl flaps and it feels flat as a fart! Not sure if it’s related to the flaps or not
massive lol , refit them, it helps low down power so they close, at at certin revs they fully open, u will get more power re fitting them
It doesnt impact at all. You just feel more petrol smell from exhaust when youstand behind or driving riverse with windows down.
hi alan great vid,have done mine so were flapless baby,the question i am asking is the egr outlet the funny looking trumpet thing on the right of the engine with the nut on,can this be removed for cleaning??does anything connect to the back of it??or can i undo the nut and pull it out cheers .tom.
i have a 2.3L turbo - I don't feel any blow-by at the dipstick during idle, however, if I pull the breather hose connected to intake I can feel puffs of air being pumped out. Is this normal behavior for these engines?
Do they run slightly positive crankcase pressure? I see no other problems - no smoke etc. except I did find a bit of oil pooling near the throttle body. It's like the oil vapor is condensing there because breather hose is slightly positive.
This engine confuses me!
Hello Alan, I must admit that your channel is really helpful, sorted few things easier than I thought, but I have a problem and I am stuck and hope you'll have solution for it.
I own 2011. S-Max, 2.2 l tdci, 147kw, manual trans., and I have problem with revs stucking (hanging), and it knows to be really jerky when shifting gears. Also noticed that when accelerating at some point it has like a hole, or hold up and continues to accelerate after a second. Have you ever had a similar problem with it. I have changed both of cutch pedal sensors. Can be a load of stuff, MAF sensor, or who knows what. No codes on diagnostics, only thing that I noticed is that Hill Launch is not available(not sure that it has any relation with rev hang)
Thanks in advance
Thanks Alan stay safe buddy
cheers paul, stay safe yourself
Allen
Just brill man
I can tell you love you fords you can do any job
Phil in stoke
Hi Alan, I have a Mondeo Mk5 2.0 diesel. V quick question have you ever had to remove the inlet manifold to clean due to oil and carbon mix from EGR. Only ask as my Ford Transit 2011 can get quite coked up so every 30k miles or so I remove and de coke ?? Thanks and keep the great and funny videos coming your a super a mechanic.
but Alan were would we be without Flaps lol
🤪
Hi Alan. Great vid as ever :) What's your opinion of the Duratec HE engine? I picked up a MK4 pre facelift with one of those engines though not sure if it is exactly the same as the one that was in the MK3
god video. I got a focus 2007 2.0 duratec. Nice engine. Do you have the partnumber on the hose ?
No surgen errores al quitar las aletas?
Can you remove the swirl flaps on the v6 st220? If they even have them.
Great video. Very informative and i don't have this engine lol.
i don't know if the v6 has them but if it does they can be removed, only thing when the flaps are removed the fuel consumption goes up
@@alan4xhow much?
Hello. Did this defect cause the engine to malfunction, or did it just cause noise?
Was never a fan of the mk3.
They do have the easiest headlights to remove of any modern car though.
The mk4 was a huge step forward.
Great vid though,I can remember pulling the manifolds from them.
Broken front springs was another,as well as the rear brake calipers that seized for fun.
Engines liked to burn oil too,especially the 1.8.
Oh happy memories 🤣
When you remove the flaps do you need to block the holes of the rod in the manifold.
no just refit the flap surrounds and that will do
@@alan4x cheers fella that will solve the rattle I've got from my manifold on my 1.8 focus. Cheers
Hello, I have a ford focus with duratec engine, 2.0 petrol/LPG 2009. Are the Swirlflaps unusefull also on this model?
Thanks in advance.
Giorgio
TANKIOU ALAN
Alan I have a question for you. There is a FM hex (3/4"NPT) plug on the back of the engine left side of the exhaust manifold. What hex key size is it? Here in sweden we put a parking heater in that hole but I guess it's really for draining the engine of water under the head for changing head gaskets.
Yes, nice video, but what about Ford's other masterpiece a bit smaller petrol engines like HXDA, HXDB? How needed is swirl flaps, throttle body valve and airfilter box cleaning etc? Why intake manifolds are made of such kind of plastics for these cars? ☺
What are the harms of removing the valves in the intake manifold?
removing the flaps wont do any harm but you will have higher fuel consumption
@@alan4x Your videos and answers are a blessing to me. Thank you, may you have a healthy life
👍@@galimcan06
😊 well done
Hi Alan. Thank you for that great video. My engine oil level keeps dropping down low on the dipstick. It doesn't smoke nor is there any leaks I can find. Any idea what's going on? Same engine as this. I just keep topping it back up but honestly I can't imagine why it drops so much so often.
Maybe just burning oil
have you tried a crows foot on the pas pipe ?
yes, still won't work but if the air con compressor was removed you possibly could use crows foot from underneath, thanks johnik
Hey mate great viedos keep them up and by the way what car make and model do you drive ?
thanks georgi....lol, i drive a very rusty merc vito van
Will the fuel trims be higher after removal of the swirl flaps, and possibly the check engine will come up?
Yes, the air-fuel ratio is impacted, and by default that means the engine light will come on at some point. Also, lower RPMs will run leaner (thus the engine light and eventual P0171 code indicating such), thus there is a loss of power at low RPMs. I actually had to replace my entire intake manifold and after a day or so, this is exactly what happened for me. Either you change the air-fuel ratio by way of an ECU flash/tune or you need to have the swirl flaps replaced. The small vacuum hoses connect to two parts that are integral to the intake manifold. Those parts are the IMRC and the actuator that the metal rod is connected. The swirl flaps, driven by that actuator, performs somewhat like a secondary throttle body, because it manages air that is not only coming from the intake housing, but also recirculated air from the PCV and vacuum that is all collected within the manifold before it enters the cylinders.
@@3scape4rtisthow high is fuel and what about lower rpm? Big difference without flaps?
hi why are the flaps in there if you don't need them.?
Emissions bullshit
Follow up question, is the plastic air-flaps still a issue in mk4 and mk5? They have some sort of 2.0 145ps e85/gasoline engine.
never had or heard of any problems on the mk4 or 5 but we don't have any mk4 or m5 petrol engines here so i not sure
Something for me to do tomorrow!
Thanks for the video.
The PCV hose is split on my car but seems not to be leaking (running ok and no code).
Apparently, it is possible to replace the PCV hose on a 2005-2007 Ford Focus / Mondeo MK#3 with a 2.0 Duratec without removing the intake manifold. See posts #151-159 on this thread - www.focusfanatics.com/threads/duratec-intake-manifold-removal-and-pcv-hose-replacement.212938/page-8 . It appears like that it would take a fraction of the time for R&R of the intake manifold.
My car is not exactly a keeper. I know it that it is not the right fix but couldn't I just disconnect and plug the line to the vacuum actuator that operates the swirl flaps ? Default with swirl flaps open and immobilized ?
Trying to do this atm but one of my housing snapped in half and every other write up says to plug up the hole where the rod comes out im confused
Hy
I have a litle problem with my car (mondeo mk3 tdci..B5y)
Last week, in one day, when i try to start the engine ...was 10 to 15sec lag in rotation ...and some smog like, in this video........ mondeo 3 engine start with lag
After this day, the problem was ....every day ...early in the morning...before i want to go to my job....or when i left the car ...for 3/5 hours
After this lag engine, engine start and work ok.
What can i do?
I have problem with flywheel ...clutch...and i need to change this part
I don't have any errors code if i put a tester....(Icarsoft i920) or if i used forscan with another obd interface.
Can be a problem with a crankshaft sensor?
or ?
Does this affect the 2007 Mazda 2.0 petrol 146 hp engine as well?
We just purchased this car with 176.000 kms and will the 1 year warranty cover this?
yes i believe it is the same engine and inlet manifold
Can you really drive without the flaps without problems?
Nah you need the flaps
How long do those engines last, have you had any fail?
had many fail due to lack of servicing but they don't take kind to being overheated either, if looked after they can last very well
470 000 here
Thank you!
cheers f netherlands
Very interesting video. How many miles on the engine with the loose swirl flaps?
Monica looking as gorgeous as ever!
I have a ford ranger with the 2.3 duratec, bought it with 130k miles on it and it had a fairly loud ticking/rattling from the IMRC flaps. Took them out and solved the problem, there is a slight low end power loss when you do this that I noticed.
Hi Alan, hope you and you're family are doing well in these difficult times, have you had much experience yet with the new 2.0 ecoblue engines?
hi cameron, thanks and hope you are good too, no not had any problems or dealings with eco blue engines yet
@@alan4x was just reading they have the dreaded wet belt system 😳
also i doubt they would damage the engine if they failed as there only nylon and would get broken 2 bits , still not ideal though, metal flaps though and its ,,,,good bye engine, as scotty kilmer would say lol, keep up the videos alan
Will this work on ‘07 Ford Focus ST 2.3?
If you remove the flaps ,the cold start can be rogh or i am rong .if someone do it on ford focus mk2.5 2009 2.0 i and don't have problems can answer me please 😃
I am doing this job with the engine in the car. This is a lot of crap to go thru just to change a PVC valve.
it is much easier if you remove the radiator fan assembly first
Should i remove bushings holding rod too?
yes take out the rod and any small bushes the rod sits in and blank off the end
In the next video, Monica has trouble with her flaps & Alan comes to the rescue.
What is the purpose of those flaps?
It’s for emissions.
They're called tumble flaps, not swirl flaps.
🔧🔧👍
🤪
Much easier to remove and reinstall the pulley. I have done it many times in the car
I’d think it would be easier to just pull the pulley off the pump and leave the hose in the car.
Bloody mondeos again..lol
it makes you think how they design these things...
And who discovered this breather problem in the first place..Alan was it you ?
does the breather issue throw an engine light ?
The flap thing ..is that like the same thing with older BMWs
and redheads givin ya grief again....
N x
hi neil, yes those split breather hoses can cause an engine light on, every time i have to change one i am like ffsake😫yes i am sure certain bmws do have this flaps and have the same problem ... the flaps in this ford engine were modified a number of times but they still wear and fail..bad design
@@alan4x Thanks for the info :)
Hello, please answer
he broke the bloody motor.