Get a FREE Month of Starlink w/ my Referral Link: www.starlink.com/residential?referral=RC-1368225-15872-65 Plus, I've put together a list of the products here: amzn.to/3Mhy88l (affiliate link)
Really neat info to know. Also, I'm glad you were able to identify the blue light. That's going to be helpful to a lot of folks. Enjoyed the watch as always!
The USB-C-to-DC standard defines max. current at 3 Ampere at 12 Volt (=36 Watt) - OR - 5 Ampere at 20 Vokt (=100 Watt). I mis-ordered at Amazon in the first place a 12V/3A. After plugging it into my Anker 737 power bank, it got itself into a reboot loop, because while booting the Mini takes more than 36 Watt, USB-C-to-12Vdc cable switches off due to overload and switches on again - and repeat. After reading the USB-C specs I ordered the USB-C to 20 Vdc cable and now everything works great. Even at 170 km/h (105 mls/h for banana fans) I get 100 MBit/s. Living on the fast lane a.k.a Autobahn. Greetings from Germany. 🇩🇪❤️🇺🇲
running at 12v requires more amps resulting in more power loss (heat) through the cable. that would explain at least some of the higher power draw at 12v.
Watching this in the UK on my big TV in my RV on my Mini via a 60W PD output - 100W is overkill. Dam thing sucks 10% an hour on my little 384Wh unit on AC or DC :) I also use a 150W Ugreen 12v socket adapter and it works fine. I can charge my Iphone and run Mini at the same time when travelling.
I think they needed to get some testing in and be sure they could handle the extra load. From what I understand, you can now use it on any of the plans while in motion (over land).
Great video! I note that your link to products mentioned in the video now includes a much higher wattage cig socket USB PD device. Have you confirmed that starlink mini will run fine from this - unlike the one you tested in the video? Thanks in advance Doug
I made the mistake of assuming that the mini could be powered by the USB C cable and a cigarette adapter. Nope. The USB C PD protocol needs to be talking to a smart device that can boost the voltage when needed. A cigarette adapter is just a pass through with no smarts and can only pass the 12VDC from the car. Also the USB C cable is probably only 20 awg wire or smaller which causes a bigger voltage drop. Edit: There are some many different USB C PD standards. The one I was using could supply 20v (but would not during the testing) but limits it 2 amps which will not fully power the Starlink Mini. If you make sure you use a cigarette lighter adapter with PD 3.1 which will provide up to 20v (the protocol can dictate up to 48v but the cig adapters I've found do not go that high) and 5 amps for 100 watts, more than enough for the Mini. There are several available on Amazon. Just make sure what you are buying. I bought one that advertised 90 watts but found out during my testing that it was actually just to 45 watt ports which is still a no go for a Mini. I did more detailed testing when I got home with a variable power supply, various gauge cables etc. The Starlink Mini will start at 12 volts and run up to 48 volts just as spec'd. Once up and fully online the Mini will continue to run just fine until the voltage drops all the way down to 10 VDC (testing done with a fairly short 12 gauge wire to remove cable voltage drop as a variable). Further testing showed that I can go down to a 10' 18 awg cable with a good quality cigarette lighter adapter with zero problems. If you want a longer cable run you will need to either up the voltage (which negates a cigarette adapter) or increase the wire gauge. You can also buy small buck boost 12-48 converter that you can wire in line, with the converter close to the 12 volt source. My main use for my mini will be in my camper van so I'm using a custom 14 awg cable wired directly to van's switched 12 vdc. Later on I will wire it to my Percon power bank and then I can use a higher voltage smaller gauge cable to the Mini.
Using the blue light isn’t a great test. I found I had a blue light no problem, but the wifi would drop out constantly and the connection would intermittently drop. There wasn’t enough power to run the router properly, even though the blue light is on… Which is just a power light only. The newly released starlink usb-c cable resolves a lot of these issues as it’s much shorter, which reduces the resistance and is then much more reliable.
Thanks for letting me know it's sold out. This was a fun task and your question prompted me to find what may be the ultimate setup. I'm a big fan of Allpowers solar panels, and they have a 100 watt panel that folds up really small and can plug directly into the Starlink dish (amzn.to/3YxNMUh). The only problem is if a cloud goes overhead, the Mini will go offline as the panel voltage will drop. So you plug the 5521 from the solar panel into the BLUETTI AC20 (amzn.to/4cdDUCg) and then come out of it with the original Starlink cord to the Mini. At the moment, I don't see anything better than this setup for a lightweight system.
@@EastTexasHomestead awesome. I live in rural Alaska. Was paying $350 for 50 gigs ( with no rollover! ) before StarLink. I will use the mini for when I work at the aircraft hangar ( the generator sh$t the bed ) and, when I travel! Again, thank you sir!
Next to the hole on the dish where you plug the power in, there's a pull tab that reveals an ethernet port. Just run an ethernet cable into your Eero master router (internet in port). Then, from the app, you can turn your mini Wi-Fi off and put it in bridge mode.
The real question is why not just use the original battery and make your own cord with battery clips lamp cord and a barrel jacks with screw terminals? Heat shrink everything up good.
You can do that but the point where your new cord enters the Mini will not be water tight unless you do something fancy there too. My goal is to not mess up the dish ;)
So how big / heavy is the 12 volt battery your using?? How would TWO smaller 12 volts that equaled the basic size and weight of the one battery work, then you could just series the two batteries and instantly have 24 volts, much more head room for cable losses
That's an option for sure. The battery I'm using is a standard car size and is less than 35lbs. Two smaller ones would be interesting to get the 24 volts.
@@EastTexasHomestead Plus you'll still have two separate 12 volt sources for 12 volt loads, and it could be recharged from a 12 or 24 volt source, depending on chemistry compatibility
@@Stefan_Dahn apparently you didn't watch the video because that was the reason for the initial fails, the voltage dropped below the minimum to power the unit up
That is/was a bit disappointing. However they now have options with unlimited data. I just put out a video about it here: ua-cam.com/video/RKAhO8fFHH0/v-deo.html
Your connectors were not part of the problem with with your use of the long cable. If you had done the math it was clear that the cable length alone was enough to cause too much voltage drop!
But at 8:40, he plugged the long Starlink DC cable directly into the Aferiy 12VDC barrel socket, and he got a blue light. So the voltage drop was small enough that it worked in this case.
@@EastTexasHomesteadNot your fault. 😉 The USB-C-to-DC standard defines max. current at 3 Ampere at 12 Volt (=36 Watt) - OR - 5 Ampere at 20 Vokt (=100 Watt). I mis-ordered at Amazon in the first place a 12V/3A. After plugging it into my Anker 737 power bank, it got itself into a reboot loop, because while booting the Mini takes more than 36 Watt, USB-C-to-12Vdc cable switches off due to overload and switches on again - and repeat. After reading the USB-C specs I ordered the USB-C to 20 Vdc cable and now everything works great. Even at 170 km/h (105 mls/h for banana fans) I get 100 MBit/s. Living on the fast lane a.k.a Autobahn. Greetings from Germany. 🇩🇪❤️🇺🇲
@@klugeyone4425 Looks like they're sold out and discontinued. I've been testing the Egretech Sonic 600 for the past few weeks, and it is a solid choice. It's also on sale for a steal right now! amzn.to/4eG7O4k
Thanks for that. That unit is pretty large. I ordered the Anker 737- as something I can place in the case I got. It doesn’t have the AC plug like the Bluetti, but people seem to like it for $79. I also got the Iniu power bank 65w 20k mAh for $35. It seems like it could work as a backup in pinch and is very small.
@@EastTexasHomesteadAnker 737 power bank gives you 3+ h of Starlink Mini. The Anker 737 has the max. size allowed on a plane (two of those per person).
Thanks for posting this video. I’m looking for a TSA approved battery pack to use as a UPS for StarLink Mini. I’d charge the batteries via 12V car port and rely on pass through charging to keep a roof mounted Mini on all the time we travel. Some battery pack drop the output voltage from 20V to 5V while charging which StarLink doesn’t like. Any recommendations for a battery pack that doesn’t drop voltage while charging, particularly one we could take while traveling abroad?
Get a FREE Month of Starlink w/ my Referral Link: www.starlink.com/residential?referral=RC-1368225-15872-65
Plus, I've put together a list of the products here: amzn.to/3Mhy88l (affiliate link)
Added a 100 watt 12v/24v DC booster to my RV’s Lithium battery system to power my Mini while boondocking. Working great.
Nice! I've considered trying something like that
that was my recommendation in the first vid to go with a buck converter to boost the voltage. Glad someone confirmed this route works!!
Which 5.5 barrel to USB C converter did you use?
Really neat info to know. Also, I'm glad you were able to identify the blue light. That's going to be helpful to a lot of folks. Enjoyed the watch as always!
Thanks Matthew!
Watching this on my phone, connected to my Mini, connected to my BLUETTI, on my dock. 👍
Nice!!!
The USB-C-to-DC standard defines max. current at 3 Ampere at 12 Volt (=36 Watt) - OR - 5 Ampere at 20 Vokt (=100 Watt). I mis-ordered at Amazon in the first place a 12V/3A. After plugging it into my Anker 737 power bank, it got itself into a reboot loop, because while booting the Mini takes more than 36 Watt, USB-C-to-12Vdc cable switches off due to overload and switches on again - and repeat. After reading the USB-C specs I ordered the USB-C to 20 Vdc cable and now everything works great. Even at 170 km/h (105 mls/h for banana fans) I get 100 MBit/s. Living on the fast lane a.k.a Autobahn. Greetings from Germany. 🇩🇪❤️🇺🇲
Thanks for the info and I'm glad you figured it out. Mini + Autobahn = Epic!
@@EastTexasHomestead Thanks for your help and investigation. ;-)
Should be also ok in-flight, at least in an Cessna/Piper or Robinson heli. 😎
Nice! I was looking for confirmation that Starlink Mini can run off of 65W PD. SpaceX recommends 100W, but their own power supply is only 65!
Glad this helps
The Bluetti unit - how many hours will it carry the Starlink Mini?
running at 12v requires more amps resulting in more power loss (heat) through the cable. that would explain at least some of the higher power draw at 12v.
Great point!
Good job tnx from south iraq
You’re welcome! Always fun to hear from people around the globe. 😊
Watching this in the UK on my big TV in my RV on my Mini via a 60W PD output - 100W is overkill. Dam thing sucks 10% an hour on my little 384Wh unit on AC or DC :) I also use a 150W Ugreen 12v socket adapter and it works fine. I can charge my Iphone and run Mini at the same time when travelling.
Nice!
Can't find that Bluetti power bank anywhere. Do you have another link for it?
Starlink’s best portable travel device they really don’t want you to use traveling, like boating or rv’ing.
I think they needed to get some testing in and be sure they could handle the extra load. From what I understand, you can now use it on any of the plans while in motion (over land).
Great video! I note that your link to products mentioned in the video now includes a much higher wattage cig socket USB PD device. Have you confirmed that starlink mini will run fine from this - unlike the one you tested in the video? Thanks in advance Doug
I haven't personally tested the Anker USB-C Car Charger listed. But from all the testing I've done, the 100w outlet will power the mini just fine.
I made the mistake of assuming that the mini could be powered by the USB C cable and a cigarette adapter. Nope. The USB C PD protocol needs to be talking to a smart device that can boost the voltage when needed. A cigarette adapter is just a pass through with no smarts and can only pass the 12VDC from the car. Also the USB C cable is probably only 20 awg wire or smaller which causes a bigger voltage drop.
Edit: There are some many different USB C PD standards. The one I was using could supply 20v (but would not during the testing) but limits it 2 amps which will not fully power the Starlink Mini. If you make sure you use a cigarette lighter adapter with PD 3.1 which will provide up to 20v (the protocol can dictate up to 48v but the cig adapters I've found do not go that high) and 5 amps for 100 watts, more than enough for the Mini. There are several available on Amazon. Just make sure what you are buying. I bought one that advertised 90 watts but found out during my testing that it was actually just to 45 watt ports which is still a no go for a Mini.
I did more detailed testing when I got home with a variable power supply, various gauge cables etc. The Starlink Mini will start at 12 volts and run up to 48 volts just as spec'd. Once up and fully online the Mini will continue to run just fine until the voltage drops all the way down to 10 VDC (testing done with a fairly short 12 gauge wire to remove cable voltage drop as a variable). Further testing showed that I can go down to a 10' 18 awg cable with a good quality cigarette lighter adapter with zero problems. If you want a longer cable run you will need to either up the voltage (which negates a cigarette adapter) or increase the wire gauge. You can also buy small buck boost 12-48 converter that you can wire in line, with the converter close to the 12 volt source.
My main use for my mini will be in my camper van so I'm using a custom 14 awg cable wired directly to van's switched 12 vdc. Later on I will wire it to my Percon power bank and then I can use a higher voltage smaller gauge cable to the Mini.
8:16 I have one which is 166wh and has 100w PD and 150W AC it's called a Beaudens 166wh - it's lighter than a 1L carton of milk
Using the blue light isn’t a great test. I found I had a blue light no problem, but the wifi would drop out constantly and the connection would intermittently drop. There wasn’t enough power to run the router properly, even though the blue light is on… Which is just a power light only.
The newly released starlink usb-c cable resolves a lot of these issues as it’s much shorter, which reduces the resistance and is then much more reliable.
For the extreme price they can keep it!
Sooooo... cant you just cut the cable? Seems like its a simple pos/neg wire? I havent gotten mine yet... but i will test this
No doubt. It would be super simple. I just don’t like messing up the OEM stuff.
What is a compactable usbc? Does it transformers into a spec of dust or something?
Haha good catch ;)
I’m trying to find the lightest power bank and light solar panel to charge said power bank. The one you have is sold out btw. Any help would be great!
Thanks for letting me know it's sold out. This was a fun task and your question prompted me to find what may be the ultimate setup. I'm a big fan of Allpowers solar panels, and they have a 100 watt panel that folds up really small and can plug directly into the Starlink dish (amzn.to/3YxNMUh). The only problem is if a cloud goes overhead, the Mini will go offline as the panel voltage will drop. So you plug the 5521 from the solar panel into the BLUETTI AC20 (amzn.to/4cdDUCg) and then come out of it with the original Starlink cord to the Mini. At the moment, I don't see anything better than this setup for a lightweight system.
@@EastTexasHomestead awesome. I live in rural Alaska. Was paying $350 for 50 gigs ( with no rollover! ) before StarLink. I will use the mini for when I work at the aircraft hangar ( the generator sh$t the bed ) and, when I travel! Again, thank you sir!
@@ulbushcrafting6592 you bet! I was paying a ton for 3 x 20gb/month hotspots before Starlink. I love this tech
@@EastTexasHomestead awesome. I used your link, and purchased the power bank. 👍
Thanks! Good luck
How do I connect to my eero mesh for when I arrive at my cabin
Next to the hole on the dish where you plug the power in, there's a pull tab that reveals an ethernet port. Just run an ethernet cable into your Eero master router (internet in port). Then, from the app, you can turn your mini Wi-Fi off and put it in bridge mode.
Milwaukee makes an ac plug adapter to any of there tool batteries it has usb-c and usb power also.
Nice!
The real question is why not just use the original battery and make your own cord with battery clips lamp cord and a barrel jacks with screw terminals? Heat shrink everything up good.
You can do that but the point where your new cord enters the Mini will not be water tight unless you do something fancy there too. My goal is to not mess up the dish ;)
You should get a goal zero sherpa
So how big / heavy is the 12 volt battery your using?? How would TWO smaller 12 volts that equaled the basic size and weight of the one battery work, then you could just series the two batteries and instantly have 24 volts, much more head room for cable losses
That's an option for sure. The battery I'm using is a standard car size and is less than 35lbs. Two smaller ones would be interesting to get the 24 volts.
@@EastTexasHomestead Plus you'll still have two separate 12 volt sources for 12 volt loads, and it could be recharged from a 12 or 24 volt source, depending on chemistry compatibility
@@dannydivine7699It is running at 3 A, so voltage drop is not a problem.
@@Stefan_Dahn apparently you didn't watch the video because that was the reason for the initial fails, the voltage dropped below the minimum to power the unit up
Good ❤
Good❤
50 gb limit is what discouraged me
That is/was a bit disappointing. However they now have options with unlimited data. I just put out a video about it here:
ua-cam.com/video/RKAhO8fFHH0/v-deo.html
what was the port you plugged into the big power station?
That was just a 5521 barrel plug.
@@EastTexasHomestead did that power station have those or did you have to put a barrel adapter on the cable
Your connectors were not part of the problem with with your use of the long cable. If you had done the math it was clear that the cable length alone was enough to cause too much voltage drop!
But alas, I didn't do the math. thanks!
But at 8:40, he plugged the long Starlink DC cable directly into the Aferiy 12VDC barrel socket, and he got a blue light. So the voltage drop was small enough that it worked in this case.
🤔
@@EastTexasHomesteadNot your fault. 😉 The USB-C-to-DC standard defines max. current at 3 Ampere at 12 Volt (=36 Watt) - OR - 5 Ampere at 20 Vokt (=100 Watt). I mis-ordered at Amazon in the first place a 12V/3A. After plugging it into my Anker 737 power bank, it got itself into a reboot loop, because while booting the Mini takes more than 36 Watt, USB-C-to-12Vdc cable switches off due to overload and switches on again - and repeat. After reading the USB-C specs I ordered the USB-C to 20 Vdc cable and now everything works great. Even at 170 km/h (105 mls/h for banana fans) I get 100 MBit/s. Living on the fast lane a.k.a Autobahn. Greetings from Germany. 🇩🇪❤️🇺🇲
I don’t see the Bluetti link
@@ulbushcrafting6592 it’s in here: www.amazon.com/shop/easttexashomestead/list/ITX28M7IN2WO
@@EastTexasHomestead, still no Bluetti product listed.
@@EastTexasHomestead Yep, no Bluetti product in that link.
@@klugeyone4425 Looks like they're sold out and discontinued. I've been testing the Egretech Sonic 600 for the past few weeks, and it is a solid choice. It's also on sale for a steal right now! amzn.to/4eG7O4k
Thanks for that. That unit is pretty large. I ordered the Anker 737- as something I can place in the case I got. It doesn’t have the AC plug like the Bluetti, but people seem to like it for $79. I also got the Iniu power bank 65w 20k mAh for $35. It seems like it could work as a backup in pinch and is very small.
🇦🇺👍
Omni charge pro power bank….
Cool
@@EastTexasHomesteadAnker 737 power bank gives you 3+ h of Starlink Mini. The Anker 737 has the max. size allowed on a plane (two of those per person).
Thanks for posting this video. I’m looking for a TSA approved battery pack to use as a UPS for StarLink Mini. I’d charge the batteries via 12V car port and rely on pass through charging to keep a roof mounted Mini on all the time we travel. Some battery pack drop the output voltage from 20V to 5V while charging which StarLink doesn’t like. Any recommendations for a battery pack that doesn’t drop voltage while charging, particularly one we could take while traveling abroad?