It's called an intrinsically safe micrometer. - Standard conditions for temperature and pressure are standard sets of conditions for experimental measurements to be established to allow comparisons to be made between different sets of data. - Bob you are a marvel. I have disassembled and cleaned two DTIs since watching your videos. I partially disassembled, cleaned, and calibrated 5 micrometers several weeks ago. I may have to go back and give them a more thorough cleaning after watching this. Thanks so much to you Bob, and to John, for these series on the maintenance of precision measuring instruments. It's funny that after watching John for so long your accents are now second nature to me, and I can understand every word.
Hi Bob, Very interesting videos, the friction sleeve as it's called,if the adjusting hole is badly damaged & the sleeve is to tight to move put it in a collet then wiggle it out holding the frame this will grip all round the diameter of sleeve without damaging or crushing, it works every time, thanks again looking forward to more videos, from Coventry UK.
I hope you cover the barrel alignment with the spindle barrel (Terminology?). I understand how to rotate the barrel for zero. Problem I have with some mic's is the number lines don't show when the spindle barrel is on zero. I hope yyou understand what I am trying to say. Love this new series. Big thanks to you Bob & John.
Thanks BOB! Great content!!! I just managed to fix-up & recalibrate my late dads old micrometer which he said he got when he in the B.I. in the early 60s. Its a DRAPER & seems newer so maybe he nabbed it off YOU when he worked on Lynemouth in the late 70s. (Ron Wright was he) I dunno where the spring went for the rachet... probably lost years ago when i first dismantled it aged 10 =) I fix up old guitars so this will FINALLY come in handy .
Just bought an "experienced" 4"-8" Moore & Wright. There was a Telex # in the box but I wasn't counting on customer support. ;) As the foam in the box was "disintegrating" I expected that's why the thimble was stiff but it just needed some oil. Your video was very informative. We quickly saw it in theory at school but for some strange reasons our machining teachers didn't want us to tear the school mics apart... I did with confidence with your help. Almost lost some microscopic parts from the ratchet thou. Might want to warn people about that next time.
Got one that was essentially rusted solid, had to electolyse it for around an hour in organic acid to get it to the point it would actually move again. Thanks for the lesson, just have to find a rachet mech for that one, as it had rotted away totally in the salt atmosphere.
thanks for the video ,i was taught at school NEVER spin the Mic like a football rattle as it puts side tension on the barrel threads and knocks them off cal.
Nice work Bob. We use a stuff called Alltrans (phosphoric acid based , i think) in a ultrasonic cleaner to remove light rust from spark/wire (EDM) parts , it might be worth trying on your parts
Hi Bob, great video. I have M&W large thimble head but it doesn't seem it has a friction ratchet. Difficult to judge same torque using finger pressure. Is it broke or what? Thanks.
Firstly thanks to you both. Bob I have a question I have a Moore and wright mic and it’s moving back snd forth on the thread. Haven’t gutted it open yet but is it a sign the screw is worn out or can this be adjusted out. Basically I have backlash in a mic😳
Absolutely fantastic. Could you get the corrosion off the barrel and spindle with immersion in citric acid solution? Or with electrolysis? Looking forward to the next installment. Dum-di-dum-didum...
Electrolysis, or let it soak in dilute coke with some aluminimum foil in contact with it, that will electrolyse the rust off nicely, plus the phosphoric acid will passivate the surface somewhat. Electrolysis use a graphite cathode, that will just make hydrogen gently and not make much junk.
I bought a new set of 4 mics on eBay for £40. Great value! Only problem was you got a different reading every time you tried. Didn’t matter how you set them up they were total crap. Anyway they I sent them back and got a refund. So I would have to disagree about buying cheap stuff. Better to buy good brands even if they are a bit rough, then do a restoration on them like you do.
Miles. As Bob said "buy the best you can afford" If there are two mic's both made in China and one is £100 there is a reason that the other is £10. Don't write off al Chinese gear as crap, in China the philosophy is don't sell ten for £50 each sell a thousand for £25.
Hi I have inherited my father's M&W 940x 0"-2" and although in excellent condition, no rust etc but the micrometer seems to be ceased. I've tried soaking in light oil but still won't loosen. Any suggestions? or would Bob please consider refurbishing....please regards MikeB
hi I have not bin able to get replacement springs so I use a thin o ring cut the o ring and cut a small pace out and put it in where the spring went regards bob
I heard you say something about having barrels made in Taiwan, I actually have an in with someone who might be able to help, how many different barrels are there? Are they generally standard, or is each size and brand different? The part itself would cost pennies, it's the tooling for each one that is in the tens of thousands of dollars each!
Help ?! Mines fully closed and it doesn’t turn - which way shoul it turn and should I force it? The nibble at the end turns but the main shaft doesn’t move
i have a mitutoyo 1 inch micrometer that has rusted a little but it will not turn at all. what do you reccomend to free the spindle i not want to put a wrench on it unless it only option.
Soak in hot oil for a while, boiling hot light oil, like air spindle oil, then let cool overnight, and try again. A few cycles of this will at least get oil into the shaft, though you might have to use a bath of hot water and electrolyse the rust off. 6V and a graphite bar electrode, positive to the mike, negative to the carbon, and some weak acid ( vinegar, citric, or just regular coke, diet or otherwise) for a few minutes after washing the oil off with a soak in thinners.
I have a micrometer that has a large anvils, maybe 1/2" diameter. It is really gummed up with congealed oil. But I can't figure out how to remove the anvil to be able to dis-assemble. Does anyone know how to do this?
I can’t place that accent. Is there an island I’ve never heard of around or near England? It’s not Irish north or south. It’s not Scottish. Some of the words sound close to an English accent but it’s only a few. It’s almost like he spoke a Norwegian language first but learned English from a heavily accented English or northern Irish area. It’s bugging me haha. I’d be very surprised it was a standard accent from any one country. Just got an old starrett #211 I’m fixing up. Thanks for the info fellas.
It's called an intrinsically safe micrometer. - Standard conditions for temperature and pressure are standard sets of conditions for experimental measurements to be established to allow comparisons to be made between different sets of data. - Bob you are a marvel. I have disassembled and cleaned two DTIs since watching your videos. I partially disassembled, cleaned, and calibrated 5 micrometers several weeks ago. I may have to go back and give them a more thorough cleaning after watching this. Thanks so much to you Bob, and to John, for these series on the maintenance of precision measuring instruments. It's funny that after watching John for so long your accents are now second nature to me, and I can understand every word.
Another interesting series the likes of which I haven't previously found on the Internet. Thanks so much for the time to record, edit and post this
Its always nice to see how to take apart delicate instruments especially when ir is an expert showing you.
Thanks for the instructions Bob
Bob that was superb thanks for taking your time to show us your hobby
Thank you, Bob. I have a 3"- 4" Starrett that is not turning free enough and need to take apart. With your video, I can do it!
Hi Bob,
Very interesting videos, the friction sleeve as it's called,if the adjusting hole is badly damaged & the sleeve is to tight to move put it in a collet then wiggle it out holding the frame this will grip all round the diameter of sleeve without damaging or crushing, it works every time, thanks again looking forward to more videos, from Coventry UK.
I hope you cover the barrel alignment with the spindle barrel (Terminology?). I understand how to rotate the barrel for zero. Problem I have with some mic's is the number lines don't show when the spindle barrel is on zero. I hope yyou understand what I am trying to say.
Love this new series. Big thanks to you Bob & John.
Thanks BOB! Great content!!! I just managed to fix-up & recalibrate my late dads old micrometer which he said he got when he in the B.I. in the early 60s. Its a DRAPER & seems newer so maybe he nabbed it off YOU when he worked on Lynemouth in the late 70s. (Ron Wright was he)
I dunno where the spring went for the rachet... probably lost years ago when i first dismantled it aged 10 =) I fix up old guitars so this will FINALLY come in handy .
Just bought an "experienced" 4"-8" Moore & Wright. There was a Telex # in the box but I wasn't counting on customer support. ;)
As the foam in the box was "disintegrating" I expected that's why the thimble was stiff but it just needed some oil.
Your video was very informative. We quickly saw it in theory at school but for some strange reasons our machining teachers didn't want us to tear the school mics apart... I did with confidence with your help. Almost lost some microscopic parts from the ratchet thou. Might want to warn people about that next time.
Got one that was essentially rusted solid, had to electolyse it for around an hour in organic acid to get it to the point it would actually move again. Thanks for the lesson, just have to find a rachet mech for that one, as it had rotted away totally in the salt atmosphere.
Great video and very informative thanks Bob. I’m looking forward to watching the rest of the series.
My M&W sorted ! Thanks Bob.
thanks for the video ,i was taught at school NEVER spin the Mic like a football rattle as it puts side tension on the barrel threads and knocks them off cal.
Thank you Bob. Always wondered how they worked.
Nice work Bob. We use a stuff called Alltrans (phosphoric acid based , i think) in a ultrasonic cleaner to remove light rust from spark/wire (EDM) parts , it might be worth trying on your parts
hi well the stuff I get is for removing light rust regards bob
G Day John, Im really enjoying the Bob videos. Interesting stuff.
Hi Bob, great video. I have M&W large thimble head but it doesn't seem it has a friction ratchet. Difficult to judge same torque using finger pressure. Is it broke or what? Thanks.
Very informative video; what liquid do you use in the ultrasonic cleaner?
once again real nice work, makes me want to go to ebay and look at mic's thanks
Thanks for strip down Bob, but I think John is ready to claim the brass mike. How about you two in the kitchen doing a cooking show together!
Great video Thanks Bob and John
Thanks for the video John.Bob.
Firstly thanks to you both. Bob I have a question I have a Moore and wright mic and it’s moving back snd forth on the thread. Haven’t gutted it open yet but is it a sign the screw is worn out or can this be adjusted out. Basically I have backlash in a mic😳
hi well you shod be able to titan the spindle up by adjusting the top threaded nut
bob dixon. Aye will give it a try. Live long a prosper.
Absolutely fantastic. Could you get the corrosion off the barrel and spindle with immersion in citric acid solution? Or with electrolysis? Looking forward to the next installment. Dum-di-dum-didum...
Electrolysis, or let it soak in dilute coke with some aluminimum foil in contact with it, that will electrolyse the rust off nicely, plus the phosphoric acid will passivate the surface somewhat. Electrolysis use a graphite cathode, that will just make hydrogen gently and not make much junk.
@@SeanBZA Very informative, Thank you. I've used citric acid before which works very well. The coke idea with the aluminium foil is excellent.
hi well you can but the stuff I have for me ultrasonic tank is a rust remover for rust removing I have to use more of the chemical and less water
Thanks Bob did you remember what the crayon is called for redoing the numbers and graduation lines
What line of work are you in? Good video
Thank you good video looking forward to the next one.
Looking forward to that factory tour.
John thanks for another great video
I bought a new set of 4 mics on eBay for £40. Great value! Only problem was you got a different reading every time you tried. Didn’t matter how you set them up they were total crap. Anyway they I sent them back and got a refund. So I would have to disagree about buying cheap stuff. Better to buy good brands even if they are a bit rough, then do a restoration on them like you do.
Miles. As Bob said "buy the best you can afford" If there are two mic's both made in China and one is £100 there is a reason that the other is £10. Don't write off al Chinese gear as crap, in China the philosophy is don't sell ten for £50 each sell a thousand for £25.
Hi I have inherited my father's M&W 940x 0"-2" and although in excellent condition, no rust etc but the micrometer seems to be ceased. I've tried soaking in light oil but still won't loosen. Any suggestions? or would Bob please consider refurbishing....please
regards MikeB
I know I’m late to this video. What solution did you use in the sonic cleaner for these parts?
Top job boys, very interesting, I’ve a new old stock starred 6 inch mike that’s so stiff I can’t use it, job for you maybe ?
Alan.
hi not a problem just get in touch with john for my details regards bob
Cheers Bob, thanks for the video. For re-blacking the numbers, are you talking about a grease pencil ? Its like a pencil with a hard colored wax core.
Chinagraph pencil?
hi no I no the ones you are referring to can not remember the name off hand will let you no there name regards bob
@@bobdixon6060 thank you very much Bob for your time.
Great video. Thanks John and Bob. My Oxford 25-50mm Mike has a spring missing from the ratchet. Do you know where I can get one? Cheers, Dean.
hi I have not bin able to get replacement springs so I use a thin o ring cut the o ring and cut a small pace out and put it in where the spring went regards bob
@@bobdixon6060 Thanks Bob
I heard you say something about having barrels made in Taiwan, I actually have an in with someone who might be able to help, how many different barrels are there? Are they generally standard, or is each size and brand different? The part itself would cost pennies, it's the tooling for each one that is in the tens of thousands of dollars each!
Help ?! Mines fully closed and it doesn’t turn - which way shoul it turn and should I force it? The nibble at the end turns but the main shaft doesn’t move
i have a mitutoyo 1 inch micrometer that has rusted a little but it will not turn at all. what do you reccomend to free the spindle i not want to put a wrench on it unless it only option.
Soak in hot oil for a while, boiling hot light oil, like air spindle oil, then let cool overnight, and try again. A few cycles of this will at least get oil into the shaft, though you might have to use a bath of hot water and electrolyse the rust off. 6V and a graphite bar electrode, positive to the mike, negative to the carbon, and some weak acid ( vinegar, citric, or just regular coke, diet or otherwise) for a few minutes after washing the oil off with a soak in thinners.
hi as bin described watt I normally do is hot oil then wile it still hot put it in the freezer this seems to work for me regards bob
I have a micrometer that has a large anvils, maybe 1/2" diameter. It is really gummed up with congealed oil. But I can't figure out how to remove the anvil to be able to dis-assemble. Does anyone know how to do this?
The "plotter" is a CMM-Coordinate Measuring Machine. And the name on the mic looks like "Ajoy", not "Alloy".
So that mike, it's brass then?!
Anyone know how to repair a spindle lock on a 0-1” mitutoyo outside diameter micrometer?
My friend Bob would sort it for you email me
I can’t place that accent. Is there an island I’ve never heard of around or near England? It’s not Irish north or south. It’s not Scottish. Some of the words sound close to an English accent but it’s only a few. It’s almost like he spoke a Norwegian language first but learned English from a heavily accented English or northern Irish area. It’s bugging me haha. I’d be very surprised it was a standard accent from any one country.
Just got an old starrett #211 I’m fixing up. Thanks for the info fellas.
North East English accent
@@chrismonks2095 wow. You guys have a lot of different accents over there.
Native Texan here and I can barely understand y’all.
G clamps...
Welding shops...
I've seen it umpteen times...
You let yourself go lad, just messing. Actually interesting title and subject.
Mucho hablas mucho tiempo perdido fuera genial si fueras practico.
Judicious editing required
Ah come on now...it's all part of the fun. Losing a part that you just put down 10 seconds ago is something I know I do...Nice to see I'm not alone!