I just received an order of these boards and will be listing the extra bare PCBs I don't need on eBay in the next few days. edited to add there is a seller in Finland currently selling assembled versions.
@@brostenen www.ebay.com/itm/193851494989 for a bare PCB Ver 2. I am also going to list the ver 1 boards and the third style (ver 0?) That doesn't go into a socket but gets wired to the chip? Does this one work with the plcc boards like the 600 and 1200?
So the Pi is basically turned into more or less lag-free framebuffer converter that converts and outputs through HDMI digitally at the original resolution? With the lower bit-depth of the Amiga 600s video chip the Pi can keep up but with AGA the amount of data is too much for the Pi to process.
I have only a quick cursory glance about the project, but it seems it's not exactly because the Pi wouldn't have enough chutzpah to process the data - there seems to be instead a few major obstacles on making it work on AGA: 1) AGA has replaced Denise with Lisa. Lisa is a surface-mounted chip (if I looked at it correctly, it's a PLCC84) with no socket, so it would be hard to tack on to. Workarounds might be soldering wires straight on the pins, creating a 3d-printed "top-sleeve" adapter, de-soldering and soldering in a PLCC socket. None of these are "easy". 2) Lisa has a 24 bit color depth. Denise has a 12 bit color depth, and that is actually the maximum color depth the RGB2HDMI project supports. The Pi might have enough GPIO pins to support a 24 bit color bus, and it might not. If it DOESN'T have enough pins, you'd need some glue logic to a) capture the bus, b) interleave/multiplex the bus data to the Pi. This adds complexity and requires more design, perhaps even a CPLD or an FPGA in the middle to handle that. Whether it does have enough pins or not, you'd need to modify the RGB2HDMI to support either a bigger bus than 12bit, or an interleaved bus divided into two 12 bit chunks. (Incidentally, a CPLD is used in the original RGB2HDMI, but apparently only for timing and bus capture etc., not multiplexing/interleaving, if I understood it right) So yeah, the RGB2HDMI can't output AGA to HDMI, but it's a bit more complicated than (and actually not precisely even close to) Pi Zero not being able to keep up. The reason extended ECS modes don't work though, even if it does have the same color depth/color out bus width as OCS Denise (12 bit), is that the extended modes present higher line frequencies and pixel clocks. The Pi Zero might (or might not) have what it takes timing-wise (NB: timing constraints are different and separate from performance and processing power), and possibly could be fixed simply with a firmware modification. "Simply" though means that the concept is simple, implementing it with tight constraints is definitely anything but. I might be way off with my assessment, I'm just a hobbyist trying to learn this stuff as I go a long, and probably got everything backwards. Source: Been designing my own 8bit Homebrew system since June 2020, most of the latter part of 2020 went on researching analog and digital video signals and how to squeeze cycles out of AVR chips - current "best" is a 80x25 (640x200) 16-color text-mode and 320x200 8x8 tile pattern + 32 (max 256 w/ FPS penalty) sprites 16-color w/ analog RGB through SCART (configurable PAL/NTSC timings in 240p/288p or 480i/576i)
Hi Jan. Question will the rgb to HDMI work with new Amiga OS like 3.4.1 and can I run workbench on it. Every video I saw was just kickstart rom 1.3 and just playing games no workbench demonstrations.
Hi Steven, the RGBtoHDMI works for all standard OCS resolutions, workbench works flawlessly. The interlace screen modes are flicker free even. The only thing that doesn’t work is overscan.
You mentioned a similar project that can be used on the A1200 using the analog output from the 23-pin port - do you have any more information on that? I would love a pi project like this.
I've done a bit of research on the GPIO pins, still plenty I don't understand. Is it using specific pins on the PI 0? what are the pins being used for?
3 роки тому+2
hey Jan, please to the tests with demos too :) lot's of tricky raster timings etc... keep up the great work! greetings from istanbul (and demoscene)
Great answers about the RGBtoHDMI. I fully understand your need to look after your child in these locked down times. You can only do what you can do so don't worry, your videos are always worth waiting for.
Howdy. What is your SCART to HDMI scaler model? Can you recommend it? I'm swamped in unknown choices. Looking to be able to output a standard Amiga RGB signal, and HDMI signal IN, to HDMI out (or possibly VGA, DVI, or others). Maybe recommend your 23 pin cable as well. My brain is scrambled looking at options for weeks. I thought, maybe just ask someone who has it figured out. ;) Looking to bring my 3000T and CDTV back into service... maybe even my A500 if I can find its pieces.. lol
The upscaler I use on the bench for testing is a Flylink SCART to HDMI thingy. Won't recommend for any serious gaming or work because it introduces considerable lag to the signal. For "serious" stuff I use an OSSC which has better output quality and no perceivable lag (but is also a bit more costly, obviously). I can definitely recommend that one! If you have a larger retro computer/console collection, the various RetroTINK models are also worth considering. I only own a RetroTINK2X which does composite/s-video and component and works really well, there's also SCART/RGB models available that allegedly work very well with the Amigas. As for the cable, you can pretty much use any Amiga SCART cable available on the market. I think mine came from AmigaKit but I have several others and can't see any major quality differences. Hope that helps!
Do you have any suggestions on how to mount the HDMI cable? I was thinking that I could perhaps print a new lid that covers the acceleration port on the left side, and mount the HDMI to that. I want to be able to close up my Amiga with the adapter in place (is there room for that BTW, even with the shield in place?), and I don't want to damage any plastic.
Picture quality does look good - How about the Denise in the A500+, does this board modification handle the ECS chipset yet? If not, is support forthcoming?
Hey jan, not sure if you'll get this but I'm having some strange issues with this adapter board, i get some weird pixelation in workbench and I'm wondering if you've seen the same issue or heard of anything. I'm running a rev 6 a500 with a wicher 508i installed running the ocs Denise I've been tinkering for a bit with it and had no luck so trying to find whatever info i can
Amiga Screen resolutions were highly programable and aspect ratios were varied and confusing. Common game resolutions (based on TV CRT NTSC and PAL standards) were 320x200 (probably the most common) & 320x256 but there was also 640x200 & 640x256. This does not include interlace resolutions which doubled the amount of vertical lines (take the 200 or 256 and replace with 400 or 512) And also ignores overscan which was also used often to increase both the resolution and screen usage (a 640x512 screen with full overscan will actually go to 704×576 with overscan) I have left a couple of notes nearer the bottom for those who want to know a bit more. Standard NTSC - 320x200 @60Hz - Standard PAL - 320x256 @50Hz both had the same aspect ratio (4:3) despite the resolution change (remember these were based on TV standards) So while a standard NTSC image/game can be displayed on a PAL screen it will be squashed, as the image will have an extra 56 lines of black displayed at the bottom of the image (changing the aspect ratio). Also depending upon game it will update the screen slower by 10Hz resulting in a slower game (~10 -15%). This can also affect the sound (speed and pitch) as the screen Hz were often used for timing. A standard PAL image/game will have a worse issue on an NTSC screen as it will crop (lose) 56 lines off the bottom of the image stretching the first 200 lines to the full lenght of the screen. You may loose essential image off the bottom making it unplayable (I have also been told some screens freak out and wont display at all). Also due to the timing being for 50Hz the game maybe running faster along with the sound. However (here comes the exception) many PAL games did not use the 320x256 but opted for 320x200. This would still keep correct aspect ratio on PAL screens, but would have a black bar at the bottom. On an NTSC screen the image would fill the screen and the aspect ratio would be stretched, but at least you could still see everything. Again the screen 50 vs 60 Hz could make the games run at different speed but to be honest most ppl didn't notice (until it was pointed out to them) I remember in a conversation about this many years ago, there there were a few NTSC games that had in fact been designed to work at the same speed regardless of the Hz but I don't remember any names, and I don't know of any PAL games designed to work at correct speed regardless of Hz either (I'm getting old) Another exception is that there are some screens that detect the image input and display accordingly regardless of PAL or NTSC standard. A couple of notes to go with:- Interlace is a way of doubling the vertical resolution but does so in a way that alternates the drawing of the line (remember this was for CRT screens that used an electron gun to fire/scan across and down the screen to a phosphorous layer) this can create a flicker on the screen. I use "can" as the amount that it flickers varies depending on the image used, screen resolution, size and quality. I find that on a static image that has lots of straight lines and contrasting colours it is more noticeable than a moving (animated) busy looking image with colours that compliment. Overscan is very dependent to the screen in use. Without overscan on a normal monitor or tv, the common resolutions will cover the screen without any alterations (there usually a bit of a border on any/all of the edges, and if you have a large border that just a poorly setup screen that needs adjusting) remember CRT screens (tubes) did not have actual straight edges (they were bowed and rounded) so some of the actual screen is hidden behind the bezel (frame) and that is the area where overscan would normally be displayed. However if you have a border the overscan could display an image into that area increasing the screen usage which if your screen was good, looked nicer. Many animations and some games used the overscan area so that you vision was filled (up to the bezel) for immersion. As a quick side note there were games that used the overscan area to hide the setup of screen graphics and sprites in an effort to avoid pop in and flicker (remember it wasn't really meant to be seen)
I'll just add that interlace flickering was also dependent on the phosphor persistence of the CRT monitor tube. So called "slow phosphor" monitors were available that eliminated the visible flicker in interlace mode, but at the cost of added blurring with fast movement making them not suitable for gaming. Commodore offered such a monitor, the 2080 (with a Toshiba E2971XLB tube), which was the slow phosphor variant of the 1084.
I bought an RPi Zero. I ordered the pcb (for A500) but until it arrives I started experimenting with attaching to the A1200... I know the A1200 is 3x8 bits there but i only used the top 4 bits R7-R4, G7-G4, B7-B4. I made an adapter for Lisa and Alice and the "copperdragon" adapter wiring in Xilinx CPLD. I also tried the v1 and v2 adapters but unfortunately the picture (3.0 bootscreen) is shaking and it is on the display twice. I tried the CDAC instead C28O, C14O from Lisa, and 7MHz, CDAC, CCK, CCKQ from Alice but unfortunately the result is similar :-( Of course the menu is good but the picture behind it is not good :-( Do you have any idea what sign it should have?
Hi, I have completed the mechanical assembly of the RGBtoHDMI for my Amiga 500. When connected to an LG FLATRON E2342 monitor the Pi HDMI did not work after power on, (blank screen) so I connected the monitor to the Amiga MONO output resulting in the Amiga boot screen as expected. The necessary software download and transfer to the microSD card could be the problem. How should this be correctly performed? If the other parts could be a problem, they are:- The RGB to HDMI circuit board has a AMS1117 3.3V regulator and two LC574A’s. The processor is a Raspberry Pi Zero 2W ARM 64 bit CPU 512MB SDRAM 2.4GHz 802.11 Since I get no response from the RGBtoHDMI assembly on the monitor, I think I have an issue with my software?? Any expert guidance would be most appreciated. Thanks Jan, for your most informative videos concerning Amiga’s and Spectrum’s. I have a working Sinclair 48K Spectrum and many games for both.
A weird thing I remember about very many (if not most..) Amiga games was, that the aspect ratio was right in PAL mode, with a block border at the bottom for preventing NTSC users from not seeing the lowest part of the image. By this they forced you to choose between either having a wrong aspect with fullscreen, or the black bar with correct aspect ratio.
Not too sure about that. I seem to recall playing PAL games on my NTSC A500 (with 1084D monitor) that I just had to use a PAL mode boot disk and adjust the vertical screen size pot on the back of the monitor to keep the image from getting lost off the bottom of the screen.
@@JeremyLevi I think the oldest Amigas couldn't toggle the CRT norm by software. And there has to be a reason for them to mostly use just 200 lines. It would have been a useless waste, to just use 200 lines instead of 256 for no good reason, if all Amigas could have used the higher resolution. That's an advantage of 28%, nearly a third of detail and a big advantage, even vs VGA. OF course also the CRTs might also have been the reason, with many people not even having an dedicated monitor back then :)
Thanks for adding more content about this neat solution. One question: Will there ever be a final version of you, or will you remain in beta status forever?
Thank you for the update Jan! I have one quick question : is there room in the case for the HDMI out to have a socket mounted somewhere once it's put back together - or what would be a sensible solution for that! Thanks, great project and great to see updates.
Unfortunately you have to make a cut in the case I think. C0pperdragon has pictures of how he modded his A500 on his GitHub somewhere. I am going to put one of these in my A2000 and make a backplate with a cutout. I think I’m going to leave my A500 stock.
Very cool project, thanks for the update. 11:15 to 11:23 I can still see a couple of pixels flicking in the thumb. Not a lot but in a static picture like that it's pretty visible. Maybe some timing issue still or other artefacts caused during the formation of the image?
Not according to my tests. I can run a PI Zero full screen emulating a Commodore 128 at 50fps. Although there are some new installs that are probably more efficient.
I don't have this adapter (although I have been put on a waiting list to get one!), but I'm going to guess that it would work fine. I think you can test it, by hooking up your adapter to a regular Pi Zero and watch the output. The nature of the output should be the same, since it's using the same hardware as in this configuration.
At 11:09, when you're talking about there being no lines flickering, you can see flickering on the right side of the disk, about half way up from the middle. :D
It might be due to the video conversion falling out of sync. First it's captured, converted, uploaded and finally played on your screen, there are plenty of places it could go wrong, or maybe not.
Linux very resilient to that sort of thing in my experience. I think 3 times in 6 years I've had to to an fsck on the relevent partition, usually sorted automatically.
It's amazing how in 2020 and on there's more home brew stuff on the Amiga and even the venerable C64 than back in its heyday... I'm stoked. On the wall the yellow high voltage sign "Achtung baby!!" ;D I haven't watched part one of this video, but I was just wondering what would happen if you connected the Amiga's RGB output into a capture card to convert it to HDMI? Probably it wouldn't be as crisp as with this dedicated hack, and also the lag would probably be much greater ??
This is a great little update Jan. This sort of video converter is going to get more and more important to the retro community as TVs increasingly drop "legacy" s-video, component, composite and VGA inputs. I suppose the big question is what comes after HDMI? :D
Well it's very likely just going to be various digital communications transported in a different medium (usually increased speed, additional features, probably wireless soon etc.) for the foreseeable future. So I presume it would just be a bit of software to translate the data or just a newer version of something like the pi with the new output capabilities. As long as the general purpose I/O pins are there, and they will be, it's just a matter of some software work to make new versions. What happens in another 20+ years when instead of looking at pictures we just induce thoughts in our brains... Who knows :-D
Das Update, das ich benutzt habe ist noch in der Beta (haha) Phase. Wird vermutlich demnächst veröffentlicht. Der Downloadlink unter dem „Issues" Thread könnte aber noch funktionieren.
If I did this mod on an Amiga I would be tempted to mount a HDMI port and the switch either on the side or the back of the casing (places like the side expansion cover on an A500) depending on which model it was. A good follow up video that might be good for Copperdragon is a guide on how to go about ordering up the appropriate circuit board and components along with building the board. It does seem a very good subject to attract a sponsor like PCB Way.
Measuring the lag can be done by hooking up a separate CRT and the HDMI display at the same time and play an animation or display a stopwatch. Put the displays side by side and see how obvious the lag is there.
Soviel ich weiß braucht das Ding mehr Rechenleistung als der Zero anbietet. Aber gerade sind diverse Ableger des Projektes in Arbeit, vielleicht kommt da auch eine Zero-Version irgendwann.
@@JanBeta Oh, habe mich falsch ausgedrückt, ich meinte den banana pi m2 zero... ^^ Den habe ich mir schon für das HDMI-Mod besorgt, habe bisher nur nicht die Kombination aus Zeit und Ruhe gefunden, das zu verbauen. Aber dein Video dazu verspricht ja schon mal sehr viel 😊
Aah, der Banana Pi ist natürlich eine andere Hausnummer. Weiß aber auch nicht, ob es damit geht... :D RGBtoHDMI läuft jedenfalls gut mit dem regulären Pi Zero. Funktioniert mit den größeren tatsächlich angeblich nicht, weil da die Timings am GPIO Header anders sind.
Hi, my Denise chip starts to get hot, and then it fails. I checked for a short and don’t find anything. Don’t know why that happens. Tested with different Denise chips
As I understand there is no limitation to use such convertor with Z80 based computers as well as NES and other consoles. Do you know such enthusiasts who tried to use the technology presented in "Amiga RGBtoHDMI (with a Pi)" project?
You can check the latency for free with this method, as I have seen on other channels: Code (or find) a little tool which outputs a sound and changes the screen at the same time on keypress. Capture a video of doing so, and by viewing the sample in the video editor you can then measure the delay between the sound and the graphical change occuring.
If the lag mentioned in the previous video of couple of milliseconds is anywhere near true then it's only a small fraction of the delay between 50 Hz frames and thus would not be measurable.
@@benbaselet2026 Yes, in general you could only have a comparably 'coarse' resolution of 16,7ms using 60Hz. Still it would at least be possible to prove the claimed latency being less then a frame (which is a great achievement for sure). But besides this technical detail: as we are comparing analog output times to digital output times, with the analog output running cross the lines and down the screen in realtime (thus making for no notable latency at all in analog output), we could as well see any latency added by using digital output (including the refresh time of a whole frame) as an implicate result of going digital, which would of course not picture the adapter's latency alone anymore, because it also included the TFT's latency, but would anyways make for a realistic comparison between analog and digital output in practice - which is what we really want to know, isn't it? :)
Thanks, Jan. I'm thinking this would be a good addition to an Amiga 2000. It should be possible to get an HDMI bracket for one of the slot covers. That would make the installation very clean. Looks like I know what my next Amiga project is.
Any ideas for a good solution to adapt RGBi from the C128 (cp/m) to hdmi? Bought a converter cable to scart via Framemeister but there is a lot of colour problems so the picture isn't great. Looking for new solution.. can this solution be used maybe?
The best Solution would be the Nvidia Latency and Display Analysis Tool (LDAT) www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/news/nvidia-reviewer-toolkit/ I don't think they sell them to the public, but some PC Tech UA-camrs got received kits from Nvidia.
I have an expanded 500+..I don't think the internal unit would fit next to my accelerator. Would be great if there was an external one that plugged in like a modulator
There is an external version of the RGBtoHDMI but that uses the regular analog RGB signals, the one I show in the video uses the digital signals directly from the chip so it has a better output still. The analog/external one should be excellent, too, though. The RGB out from the Amigas is pretty high quality in general.
Could the rasperry bi used for accelerator for Amiga or any other tasks? You can easily buy rasp anywhere instead of amiga accelerators and accesories.
There are several Amiga projects using Raspis for a variety of things, I think also one that uses it to replace/accelerate the CPU. It’s not finished yet though afaik.
If c0pperdragon's just offered the parts as a DIY set it would be a lot easier and he would spend a lot less time. Even standard parts can have a lot of options and it is easy to select something that do not fit the project design.
The difference is that this approach uses the digital signals, the RGB or VGA adapters upscale the analog output so the quality is not as good. Plus, they often add significant lag, unless you spend a lot of money.
There's the Ultimate C64 which is a completely new hardware (not emulation!) in ASIC chips, it has full HDMI output. Not sure about the C128, unfortunately it was never very popular due to the fact that it came out toward the end of the 8-bit era.
The only solution I am aware of for the AGA Amigas is the IndivisionAGA. It‘s amazing but it’s basically a graphics card so I don’t think it will support the RTG from the Warp.
Not RGBtoHDMI. However as Jan writes, then there are the IndivisionAGA and there are the ScanPlusAGA. Else you need to get an OSSC or Framemeister. There are also 15khz compatible LCD monitors in the wild, yet for the price they are sold for, an old CRT monitor made for Amiga, are a way better choice. My best advice, is to buy one of the two internal scandoubler that excist.
Uhhh... i forgot this solution.... If you have enough money. Then you can install a 1200 motherboard in a Tower case. Then install a bridge board with PCI. And then you can use Voodoo3-PCI or a specific Radeon-PCI.
@@brostenen I have an original Commodore CRT for my machine, but I would like it to be future-proof, as Jan likes to say. That is have a modern output option in case I'll ever need it (CRT dying or whatever). Simply having an HDMI-out that supports native resolutions as well as RTG on the stock case would be ideal, however thats propably the price you pay for small cases just like back in the day.
Has anybody recognized from the schematics or Gerber files which IC circuits you have to solder on the board I? I am asking for the V2 board....Thanks for your time
I have yet to figure out how to enable scanlines. However I have my adaptors (V1 and V2) set to lowest smoothing filther. I think that gives the best blend of CRT and LCD (emulator quality) experience,
@@JanBeta To me it does not matter. The smoothing filther is what I like the best. It is the first smoothing, that you find in the menu, after default settings is enabled. I was disappointed with Rebels Megademo II, at first. The outlines of the Rebels logo, in the loading splash screen, looked strange in default settings. However smoothing enabled, makes the pixels slightly softer, and I think it gives this beautifull mix of CRT and LCD quality compromis/combination. It makes it all look like as if the quality of CRT had a notch up.
@@JanBeta You can check it in some of my videoes, that I made about both V1 and V2 adaptors. They both give the exact same result, no matter if it is my OCS Amiga500 or my Rev 8a.1 Amiga500.
Nice video, thank you. The general question is what's the point of using Raspberry PI to work as RGB 2 HDMI converter for Amiga if Raspberry Pi can emulate the whole Amiga hardware. OK it's better to use Pi3 or faster ARM but then you have Amiga 4000 at least :)
The Zero is way better suited for the job. Something about how it processes data through GPIO (I have not dived that much into it). I know that one person, made a Frankenstein-MOD to his a600, by soldering wires directly to the Denise SMD chip, because he has a Furia accelerator. Then he used an PI3. Yet that takes up space, and the Zero is better suited for the task anyway. He said it worked as in he got a picture. He did not talk about lag. Also, the PI are powered from the motherboard, so it is best to use as low power consuming devices as possible. If someone design a special adaptor board, that can go under stuff like the Furia or Vampire. Then it can be done in an a600 as well. I just dont think it is the best for a3000, because users tend to use ECS high resolution screenmodes in WB on that model.
The emulators for raspberry pi, while outstanding, are not perfect yet and most of what we want to do with Amigas is timing-critical i.e. gaming, audio and graphics apps. But a PC is great for virtually all Amiga games and a Pi is great for MOST Amiga games, the ones that don't run well on a Pi via WHDload often do run well via .adf disc images for some reason (e.g. Agony).
@@flekkzo True. Yet we can not all have an Amiga1200, 2000, 3000 or 4000. Especially not Commodore branded CRT's. A mint condition CRT with Commodore logo, cost today the same as a framemeister.
Cooperdragon hat einer RGB mod gemacht und einer HDMI gemacht. Aber dieser sind sehr teuer. Die bester fur die preis, is die Retrotink 2x oder x2. Die mini version kannst man von Pixelperfection kaufen. Entschuldigung meiner schlectes Deutch. Ich bin von Danemark, und habe nur drei oder vier mahl deutch geschreibt, zeit 1999.
@@brostenen Ich habe nichts über Pixelperfection gefunden. 😐 Ich benutze BMC64 wegen HDMI, mein echter C64 mit KungFuFlash und TapeCard steht sinnlos rum weil ich keinen CRT habe.... 🤔 Da irgendwas mit HDMI wäre so genial! ❤❤❤
@@negative1307 Diese hier... videogameperfection.com/products/commodore-component-installation/ Und dann kanst du die externer RGBtoHDMI benutzen. Die habe einer C64 profile. I will continue in English.... You have to keep an eye out for the Retrotink mini edition. They are for sale from time to time, yet extremely quickly sold out. I ordered the last one yesterday. There were only the purple one left. And only one. Just keep an eye out for a new batch. Or go for the internal RGB mod plus the cheaper RGBtoHDMI solution.
OK, mal für ganz Dumme: Was muss ich machen, damit ich meinen alten Amiga 500 nicht an meinen Commodore 1084, sondern an einen modernen Flachbildschirm anschließen kann? Und das Ganze möglichst, ohne das Gerät auseinanderzunehmen und umzulöten.
Es gibt diverse sogenannte Upscaler und Scandoubler, die das RGB-Videosignal vom Amiga auf einen HDMI-Ausgang umwandeln können. Du brauchst ein Amiga-SCART Kabel und eins dieser Geräte. Ich empfehle den OSSC oder den RetroTink5X. Es gibt deutlich günstigere Lösungen, allerdings haben die meistens Qualitätsprobleme und so viel Lag, dass damit Spiele nicht wirklich Spaß machen.
Hello Jan. I'm starting to "diversify" my online media platforms in the wake of a great deal of censorship and takedowns by big tech. I'm wondering if you are posting your videos to any other platforms?
![A600 HDMI - The BEST AND EASY Way! - Amiga 600 running on Modern TVs and Monitors [RGB2HDMI Review]](/img/n.gif)
Your videos are great Jan, whenever you have time to produce a new one, we'll be here to watch!
The reflection in the window at the beginning made me think someone in your condo had hung their sheets on the tree in the yard. Stay safe!
Oh, so it is a reflection! Good eye :)
I just received an order of these boards and will be listing the extra bare PCBs I don't need on eBay in the next few days.
edited to add there is a seller in Finland currently selling assembled versions.
Yup. I saw that a couple of days ago. It is only the V1 though.
@@brostenen www.ebay.com/itm/193851494989 for a bare PCB Ver 2.
I am also going to list the ver 1 boards and the third style (ver 0?) That doesn't go into a socket but gets wired to the chip? Does this one work with the plcc boards like the 600 and 1200?
So the Pi is basically turned into more or less lag-free framebuffer converter that converts and outputs through HDMI digitally at the original resolution? With the lower bit-depth of the Amiga 600s video chip the Pi can keep up but with AGA the amount of data is too much for the Pi to process.
I have only a quick cursory glance about the project, but it seems it's not exactly because the Pi wouldn't have enough chutzpah to process the data - there seems to be instead a few major obstacles on making it work on AGA:
1) AGA has replaced Denise with Lisa. Lisa is a surface-mounted chip (if I looked at it correctly, it's a PLCC84) with no socket, so it would be hard to tack on to. Workarounds might be soldering wires straight on the pins, creating a 3d-printed "top-sleeve" adapter, de-soldering and soldering in a PLCC socket. None of these are "easy".
2) Lisa has a 24 bit color depth. Denise has a 12 bit color depth, and that is actually the maximum color depth the RGB2HDMI project supports. The Pi might have enough GPIO pins to support a 24 bit color bus, and it might not. If it DOESN'T have enough pins, you'd need some glue logic to a) capture the bus, b) interleave/multiplex the bus data to the Pi. This adds complexity and requires more design, perhaps even a CPLD or an FPGA in the middle to handle that. Whether it does have enough pins or not, you'd need to modify the RGB2HDMI to support either a bigger bus than 12bit, or an interleaved bus divided into two 12 bit chunks. (Incidentally, a CPLD is used in the original RGB2HDMI, but apparently only for timing and bus capture etc., not multiplexing/interleaving, if I understood it right)
So yeah, the RGB2HDMI can't output AGA to HDMI, but it's a bit more complicated than (and actually not precisely even close to) Pi Zero not being able to keep up.
The reason extended ECS modes don't work though, even if it does have the same color depth/color out bus width as OCS Denise (12 bit), is that the extended modes present higher line frequencies and pixel clocks. The Pi Zero might (or might not) have what it takes timing-wise (NB: timing constraints are different and separate from performance and processing power), and possibly could be fixed simply with a firmware modification. "Simply" though means that the concept is simple, implementing it with tight constraints is definitely anything but.
I might be way off with my assessment, I'm just a hobbyist trying to learn this stuff as I go a long, and probably got everything backwards.
Source: Been designing my own 8bit Homebrew system since June 2020, most of the latter part of 2020 went on researching analog and digital video signals and how to squeeze cycles out of AVR chips - current "best" is a 80x25 (640x200) 16-color text-mode and 320x200 8x8 tile pattern + 32 (max 256 w/ FPS penalty) sprites 16-color w/ analog RGB through SCART (configurable PAL/NTSC timings in 240p/288p or 480i/576i)
Thanks for posting in such difficult circumstances. I'm parenting in quarantine too. Your videos are a welcome diversion!
Hi Jan. Question will the rgb to HDMI work with new Amiga OS like 3.4.1 and can I run workbench on it. Every video I saw was just kickstart rom 1.3 and just playing games no workbench demonstrations.
Hi Steven, the RGBtoHDMI works for all standard OCS resolutions, workbench works flawlessly. The interlace screen modes are flicker free even. The only thing that doesn’t work is overscan.
Thanks Jan for the info. One more question can the metal shielding go back on after the install?
You mentioned a similar project that can be used on the A1200 using the analog output from the 23-pin port - do you have any more information on that? I would love a pi project like this.
Glad I found someone with a workbench (Only slightly) messier than mine :)
I call it "the desk of chaos". ;)
@@JanBeta < "Schmutzig!" he-he
I've done a bit of research on the GPIO pins, still plenty I don't understand. Is it using specific pins on the PI 0? what are the pins being used for?
hey Jan, please to the tests with demos too :) lot's of tricky raster timings etc... keep up the great work! greetings from istanbul (and demoscene)
Much love from America. Hope you're getting along well.
Thanks Jan, this was something for me to look forward to watching after doing home school!
Nice update Jan! 👍🕹️
Great answers about the RGBtoHDMI. I fully understand your need to look after your child in these locked down times. You can only do what you can do so don't worry, your videos are always worth waiting for.
Thanks Jan. Great video on the features of the card. Cant wait to get one. Well actually I can wait. And am happy to. Cheers.
This is amazing! I guess I could use it on my 500 and 2000! That would be very cool. Thanks so much!
Howdy. What is your SCART to HDMI scaler model? Can you recommend it? I'm swamped in unknown choices. Looking to be able to output a standard Amiga RGB signal, and HDMI signal IN, to HDMI out (or possibly VGA, DVI, or others). Maybe recommend your 23 pin cable as well. My brain is scrambled looking at options for weeks. I thought, maybe just ask someone who has it figured out. ;) Looking to bring my 3000T and CDTV back into service... maybe even my A500 if I can find its pieces.. lol
The upscaler I use on the bench for testing is a Flylink SCART to HDMI thingy. Won't recommend for any serious gaming or work because it introduces considerable lag to the signal. For "serious" stuff I use an OSSC which has better output quality and no perceivable lag (but is also a bit more costly, obviously). I can definitely recommend that one! If you have a larger retro computer/console collection, the various RetroTINK models are also worth considering. I only own a RetroTINK2X which does composite/s-video and component and works really well, there's also SCART/RGB models available that allegedly work very well with the Amigas. As for the cable, you can pretty much use any Amiga SCART cable available on the market. I think mine came from AmigaKit but I have several others and can't see any major quality differences. Hope that helps!
Do you have any suggestions on how to mount the HDMI cable? I was thinking that I could perhaps print a new lid that covers the acceleration port on the left side, and mount the HDMI to that. I want to be able to close up my Amiga with the adapter in place (is there room for that BTW, even with the shield in place?), and I don't want to damage any plastic.
Picture quality does look good - How about the Denise in the A500+, does this board modification handle the ECS chipset yet? If not, is support forthcoming?
IIRC it works with the ECS Denise, but doesn't support the extra ECS screen modes.
Yes, ECS Denise is supported with the V2 board but only the OCS modes are displayed correctly. Timings are too tight for the ECS modes.
Hey jan, not sure if you'll get this but I'm having some strange issues with this adapter board, i get some weird pixelation in workbench and I'm wondering if you've seen the same issue or heard of anything.
I'm running a rev 6 a500 with a wicher 508i installed running the ocs Denise I've been tinkering for a bit with it and had no luck so trying to find whatever info i can
Amiga Screen resolutions were highly programable and aspect ratios were varied and confusing. Common game resolutions (based on TV CRT NTSC and PAL standards) were 320x200 (probably the most common) & 320x256 but there was also 640x200 & 640x256. This does not include interlace resolutions which doubled the amount of vertical lines (take the 200 or 256 and replace with 400 or 512) And also ignores overscan which was also used often to increase both the resolution and screen usage (a 640x512 screen with full overscan will actually go to 704×576 with overscan) I have left a couple of notes nearer the bottom for those who want to know a bit more.
Standard NTSC - 320x200 @60Hz - Standard PAL - 320x256 @50Hz both had the same aspect ratio (4:3) despite the resolution change (remember these were based on TV standards)
So while a standard NTSC image/game can be displayed on a PAL screen it will be squashed, as the image will have an extra 56 lines of black displayed at the bottom of the image (changing the aspect ratio). Also depending upon game it will update the screen slower by 10Hz resulting in a slower game (~10 -15%). This can also affect the sound (speed and pitch) as the screen Hz were often used for timing.
A standard PAL image/game will have a worse issue on an NTSC screen as it will crop (lose) 56 lines off the bottom of the image stretching the first 200 lines to the full lenght of the screen. You may loose essential image off the bottom making it unplayable (I have also been told some screens freak out and wont display at all). Also due to the timing being for 50Hz the game maybe running faster along with the sound.
However (here comes the exception) many PAL games did not use the 320x256 but opted for 320x200. This would still keep correct aspect ratio on PAL screens, but would have a black bar at the bottom. On an NTSC screen the image would fill the screen and the aspect ratio would be stretched, but at least you could still see everything. Again the screen 50 vs 60 Hz could make the games run at different speed but to be honest most ppl didn't notice (until it was pointed out to them) I remember in a conversation about this many years ago, there there were a few NTSC games that had in fact been designed to work at the same speed regardless of the Hz but I don't remember any names, and I don't know of any PAL games designed to work at correct speed regardless of Hz either (I'm getting old)
Another exception is that there are some screens that detect the image input and display accordingly regardless of PAL or NTSC standard.
A couple of notes to go with:-
Interlace is a way of doubling the vertical resolution but does so in a way that alternates the drawing of the line (remember this was for CRT screens that used an electron gun to fire/scan across and down the screen to a phosphorous layer) this can create a flicker on the screen. I use "can" as the amount that it flickers varies depending on the image used, screen resolution, size and quality. I find that on a static image that has lots of straight lines and contrasting colours it is more noticeable than a moving (animated) busy looking image with colours that compliment.
Overscan is very dependent to the screen in use. Without overscan on a normal monitor or tv, the common resolutions will cover the screen without any alterations (there usually a bit of a border on any/all of the edges, and if you have a large border that just a poorly setup screen that needs adjusting) remember CRT screens (tubes) did not have actual straight edges (they were bowed and rounded) so some of the actual screen is hidden behind the bezel (frame) and that is the area where overscan would normally be displayed. However if you have a border the overscan could display an image into that area increasing the screen usage which if your screen was good, looked nicer. Many animations and some games used the overscan area so that you vision was filled (up to the bezel) for immersion. As a quick side note there were games that used the overscan area to hide the setup of screen graphics and sprites in an effort to avoid pop in and flicker (remember it wasn't really meant to be seen)
I'll just add that interlace flickering was also dependent on the phosphor persistence of the CRT monitor tube. So called "slow phosphor" monitors were available that eliminated the visible flicker in interlace mode, but at the cost of added blurring with fast movement making them not suitable for gaming. Commodore offered such a monitor, the 2080 (with a Toshiba E2971XLB tube), which was the slow phosphor variant of the 1084.
@@JeremyLevi I did have something written for that but I must have deleted it.
Thanks Jan... will create such an adapter for my Amiga 500 as well 😬
I bought an RPi Zero. I ordered the pcb (for A500) but until it arrives I started experimenting with attaching to the A1200...
I know the A1200 is 3x8 bits there but i only used the top 4 bits R7-R4, G7-G4, B7-B4. I made an adapter for Lisa and Alice and the "copperdragon" adapter wiring in Xilinx CPLD.
I also tried the v1 and v2 adapters but unfortunately the picture (3.0 bootscreen) is shaking and it is on the display twice. I tried the CDAC instead C28O, C14O from Lisa, and 7MHz, CDAC, CCK, CCKQ from Alice but unfortunately the result is similar :-(
Of course the menu is good but the picture behind it is not good :-(
Do you have any idea what sign it should have?
Thanks Jan. Interested to see the external version. Stay safe. :-)
Thanks Jan for this very useful update! Keep up the great work! :)
Thank you for actually using 50fps Video! So one can see that it really scrolls smoothly without any hitches.
Hi Jan, would it work in an A600 Memory expansion with an connector for a flickerfixer e.g. indivision ecs ?
Hi, I have completed the mechanical assembly of the RGBtoHDMI for my Amiga 500. When connected to an LG FLATRON E2342 monitor the Pi HDMI did not work after power on, (blank screen) so I connected the monitor to the Amiga MONO output resulting in the Amiga boot screen as expected. The necessary software download and transfer to the microSD card could be the problem. How should this be correctly performed?
If the other parts could be a problem, they are:-
The RGB to HDMI circuit board has a AMS1117 3.3V regulator and two LC574A’s.
The processor is a Raspberry Pi Zero 2W ARM 64 bit CPU 512MB SDRAM 2.4GHz 802.11
Since I get no response from the RGBtoHDMI assembly on the monitor, I think I have an issue with my software??
Any expert guidance would be most appreciated.
Thanks Jan, for your most informative videos concerning Amiga’s and Spectrum’s. I have a working Sinclair 48K Spectrum and many games for both.
A weird thing I remember about very many (if not most..) Amiga games was, that the aspect ratio was right in PAL mode, with a block border at the bottom for preventing NTSC users from not seeing the lowest part of the image. By this they forced you to choose between either having a wrong aspect with fullscreen, or the black bar with correct aspect ratio.
Not too sure about that. I seem to recall playing PAL games on my NTSC A500 (with 1084D monitor) that I just had to use a PAL mode boot disk and adjust the vertical screen size pot on the back of the monitor to keep the image from getting lost off the bottom of the screen.
@@JeremyLevi I think the oldest Amigas couldn't toggle the CRT norm by software. And there has to be a reason for them to mostly use just 200 lines. It would have been a useless waste, to just use 200 lines instead of 256 for no good reason, if all Amigas could have used the higher resolution. That's an advantage of 28%, nearly a third of detail and a big advantage, even vs VGA. OF course also the CRTs might also have been the reason, with many people not even having an dedicated monitor back then :)
Great! Thanks for the update! ❤️
On the whole lag thing, mabey you can ask @RetroRGB (Twitter) he is an expert on lag and all that stuff.
Another great video :)
Thanks for adding more content about this neat solution.
One question: Will there ever be a final version of you, or will you remain in beta status forever?
Thank you for the update Jan!
I have one quick question : is there room in the case for the HDMI out to have a socket mounted somewhere once it's put back together - or what would be a sensible solution for that! Thanks, great project and great to see updates.
Unfortunately you have to make a cut in the case I think. C0pperdragon has pictures of how he modded his A500 on his GitHub somewhere. I am going to put one of these in my A2000 and make a backplate with a cutout. I think I’m going to leave my A500 stock.
Very cool project, thanks for the update.
11:15 to 11:23 I can still see a couple of pixels flicking in the thumb. Not a lot but in a static picture like that it's pretty visible. Maybe some timing issue still or other artefacts caused during the formation of the image?
The pi zero could probably replace the entire Amiga motherboard with an arduino to interface to the keyboard.
Not according to my tests. I can run a PI Zero full screen emulating a Commodore 128 at 50fps.
Although there are some new installs that are probably more efficient.
No emulator todate can run an Amiga perfectly. They are pretty close, but there are glitches and lags when running certain software.
An update to the Amiga update! :D
of the update :)
Great review, great device! Thanks Jan!!
when you have this adapter installer, will a common hdmi-to-vga adapter work? I have a VGA monitor I'd like to use :)
I don't have this adapter (although I have been put on a waiting list to get one!), but I'm going to guess that it would work fine. I think you can test it, by hooking up your adapter to a regular Pi Zero and watch the output. The nature of the output should be the same, since it's using the same hardware as in this configuration.
@@ojkolsrud1 yep this is what I'll do.
BTW, there are some people selling the adapter on eBay as well.
Did enjoy this, thanks.
At 11:09, when you're talking about there being no lines flickering, you can see flickering on the right side of the disk, about half way up from the middle. :D
It might be due to the video conversion falling out of sync. First it's captured, converted, uploaded and finally played on your screen, there are plenty of places it could go wrong, or maybe not.
Thanks Jan, a very nice update 🙂
I'm curious as to the impact on the SD card filesystem when the Pi gets constantly shut down improperly.
If it’s anything like the Pi that can be installed in the ZX Spectrum Next which also never gets shut down properly the impact is zero.
It's a bare metal program - the boot loader puts the program in RAM and then that's about it except for saving config information.
Linux very resilient to that sort of thing in my experience. I think 3 times in 6 years I've had to to an fsck on the relevent partition, usually sorted automatically.
I have a pistorm, this adapter will not fit.. will it work with a 40pin ribbon extention cable?
Add the pi-storm to A500, will be great step by step video, like your videos, easy to understand and follow...
Yes, I'm going to try that eventually. They are currently on back order because of the parts shortages.
@@JanBeta Great, love your videos, and work you doing
no matter the content, i always hit like for Jan Beta
I hit like first, ask questions later. ha-ha
It's amazing how in 2020 and on there's more home brew stuff on the Amiga and even the venerable C64 than back in its heyday... I'm stoked. On the wall the yellow high voltage sign "Achtung baby!!" ;D
I haven't watched part one of this video, but I was just wondering what would happen if you connected the Amiga's RGB output into a capture card to convert it to HDMI? Probably it wouldn't be as crisp as with this dedicated hack, and also the lag would probably be much greater ??
Mine is in the mail! Can't wait!=D
It's a great little device! :)
This is a great little update Jan. This sort of video converter is going to get more and more important to the retro community as TVs increasingly drop "legacy" s-video, component, composite and VGA inputs. I suppose the big question is what comes after HDMI? :D
Well it's very likely just going to be various digital communications transported in a different medium (usually increased speed, additional features, probably wireless soon etc.) for the foreseeable future. So I presume it would just be a bit of software to translate the data or just a newer version of something like the pi with the new output capabilities. As long as the general purpose I/O pins are there, and they will be, it's just a matter of some software work to make new versions. What happens in another 20+ years when instead of looking at pictures we just induce thoughts in our brains... Who knows :-D
Die letzte Software die ich finden kann ist vom November 2020. Hast du einen Link? Im Git kann ich es nicht finden.
Das Update, das ich benutzt habe ist noch in der Beta (haha) Phase. Wird vermutlich demnächst veröffentlicht. Der Downloadlink unter dem „Issues" Thread könnte aber noch funktionieren.
@@JanBeta Leider nicht.
If I did this mod on an Amiga I would be tempted to mount a HDMI port and the switch either on the side or the back of the casing (places like the side expansion cover on an A500) depending on which model it was. A good follow up video that might be good for Copperdragon is a guide on how to go about ordering up the appropriate circuit board and components along with building the board. It does seem a very good subject to attract a sponsor like PCB Way.
I have components and boards on order to make a video like that. :)
Hi Jan. Is anything similar for a C128 or C64? Thank you.
Jan was showing something like this for C64 some time ago: ua-cam.com/video/DBHYBWNlgTE/v-deo.html
Measuring the lag can be done by hooking up a separate CRT and the HDMI display at the same time and play an animation or display a stopwatch. Put the displays side by side and see how obvious the lag is there.
That's what I tried, using the highest speed my camera can do. But couldn't see any difference.
@@JanBeta But that's good!! If it's imperceptible at the human eye level, then that's good props for the hardware! 👍
Thanks for the video. I've ordered some PCBs from PCB Way.
Three are for sale on eBay right now. Seller is from Finland. Just search for Amiga RGB to HDMI.
Moin Jan, hast du zufällig schon den PiStorm in die Finger bekommen?
Nein, leider nicht. Habe mich heute gerade erst auf die Liste gesetzt.
@@JanBeta Mich würde ja unter anderem interessieren, ob das auch mit'nem Pi Zero funktionieren würde oder ob es 64-Bit zwingend benötigt...
Soviel ich weiß braucht das Ding mehr Rechenleistung als der Zero anbietet. Aber gerade sind diverse Ableger des Projektes in Arbeit, vielleicht kommt da auch eine Zero-Version irgendwann.
@@JanBeta Oh, habe mich falsch ausgedrückt, ich meinte den banana pi m2 zero... ^^ Den habe ich mir schon für das HDMI-Mod besorgt, habe bisher nur nicht die Kombination aus Zeit und Ruhe gefunden, das zu verbauen.
Aber dein Video dazu verspricht ja schon mal sehr viel 😊
Aah, der Banana Pi ist natürlich eine andere Hausnummer. Weiß aber auch nicht, ob es damit geht... :D RGBtoHDMI läuft jedenfalls gut mit dem regulären Pi Zero. Funktioniert mit den größeren tatsächlich angeblich nicht, weil da die Timings am GPIO Header anders sind.
Thank you Jan.
Amazing results! Gives a bit more life to the amiga! Stay healthy and covidsafe.
Hi, my Denise chip starts to get hot, and then it fails. I checked for a short and don’t find anything. Don’t know why that happens. Tested with different Denise chips
As I understand there is no limitation to use such convertor with Z80 based computers as well as NES and other consoles. Do you know such enthusiasts who tried to use the technology presented in "Amiga RGBtoHDMI (with a Pi)" project?
At first I thought Jürgen Klopp is talking :-D
You can check the latency for free with this method, as I have seen on other channels:
Code (or find) a little tool which outputs a sound and changes the screen at the same time on keypress.
Capture a video of doing so, and by viewing the sample in the video editor you can then measure the delay between the sound and the graphical change occuring.
If the lag mentioned in the previous video of couple of milliseconds is anywhere near true then it's only a small fraction of the delay between 50 Hz frames and thus would not be measurable.
@@benbaselet2026 Yes, in general you could only have a comparably 'coarse' resolution of 16,7ms using 60Hz. Still it would at least be possible to prove the claimed latency being less then a frame (which is a great achievement for sure).
But besides this technical detail: as we are comparing analog output times to digital output times, with the analog output running cross the lines and down the screen in realtime (thus making for no notable latency at all in analog output), we could as well see any latency added by using digital output (including the refresh time of a whole frame) as an implicate result of going digital, which would of course not picture the adapter's latency alone anymore, because it also included the TFT's latency, but would anyways make for a realistic comparison between analog and digital output in practice - which is what we really want to know, isn't it? :)
Great update Jan👍🏻.
Thanks, Jan. I'm thinking this would be a good addition to an Amiga 2000. It should be possible to get an HDMI bracket for one of the slot covers. That would make the installation very clean. Looks like I know what my next Amiga project is.
I plan to do the same for my A2000. :)
Any ideas for a good solution to adapt RGBi from the C128 (cp/m) to hdmi? Bought a converter cable to scart via Framemeister but there is a lot of colour problems so the picture isn't great. Looking for new solution.. can this solution be used maybe?
Ok, so you answered that a little later on. Would love a video about that!
So what happens with the OCS interlaced modes? Will it deinterlace the old 640x400?
Yes, tried some Hires modes during the stream I linked. Works beautifully.
The best Solution would be the Nvidia Latency and Display Analysis Tool (LDAT) www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/news/nvidia-reviewer-toolkit/
I don't think they sell them to the public, but some PC Tech UA-camrs got received kits from Nvidia.
42 life universe and everything
Great video as always!
I have an expanded 500+..I don't think the internal unit would fit next to my accelerator. Would be great if there was an external one that plugged in like a modulator
There is an external version of the RGBtoHDMI but that uses the regular analog RGB signals, the one I show in the video uses the digital signals directly from the chip so it has a better output still. The analog/external one should be excellent, too, though. The RGB out from the Amigas is pretty high quality in general.
Could the rasperry bi used for accelerator for Amiga or any other tasks? You can easily buy rasp anywhere instead of amiga accelerators and accesories.
There are several Amiga projects using Raspis for a variety of things, I think also one that uses it to replace/accelerate the CPU. It’s not finished yet though afaik.
There is an accelerator, that is more an co processor. It is called something a bit like a314 or something like that.
Any chance of an Atari STF RGB to HDMI?
I want one of these little things for my old A500.
I just saw them on sale on eBay. A seller from Finland. Right now, 3 are for sale.
how to go to the menu? after klik on switch?
If c0pperdragon's just offered the parts as a DIY set it would be a lot easier and he would spend a lot less time.
Even standard parts can have a lot of options and it is easy to select something that do not fit the project design.
Nice project..
Can this be installed if I already have an accelerator card such as TF530?
Yes it can. You probably need a couple of socket extenders or socket raisers to make it all fitt.
While its a great usage of a PI I'm wondering why you can't use a VGA to HDMI adaptor?
The difference is that this approach uses the digital signals, the RGB or VGA adapters upscale the analog output so the quality is not as good. Plus, they often add significant lag, unless you spend a lot of money.
a desk is no complete unless ther'es a swiss army knife on it.
Who needs a Swiss Army Knife when we have a German precision engineered JanBeta? ;D
im just waiting till theres one for the amiga 600
There’s already a board that you can wire into the A600. It requires soldering though.
50 PFS video ! Good move 👍🏻
Could something similar be done on the Commodore 128 RGB output?
There's the Ultimate C64 which is a completely new hardware (not emulation!) in ASIC chips, it has full HDMI output. Not sure about the C128, unfortunately it was never very popular due to the fact that it came out toward the end of the 8-bit era.
Is there a version for the 1200, or a similar lagfree solution? (WARP1200 compatibility would be awesome, since that thing has RTG)
The only solution I am aware of for the AGA Amigas is the IndivisionAGA. It‘s amazing but it’s basically a graphics card so I don’t think it will support the RTG from the Warp.
Not RGBtoHDMI. However as Jan writes, then there are the IndivisionAGA and there are the ScanPlusAGA. Else you need to get an OSSC or Framemeister. There are also 15khz compatible LCD monitors in the wild, yet for the price they are sold for, an old CRT monitor made for Amiga, are a way better choice. My best advice, is to buy one of the two internal scandoubler that excist.
Uhhh... i forgot this solution....
If you have enough money. Then you can install a 1200 motherboard in a Tower case. Then install a bridge board with PCI. And then you can use Voodoo3-PCI or a specific Radeon-PCI.
@@brostenen I have an original Commodore CRT for my machine, but I would like it to be future-proof, as Jan likes to say. That is have a modern output option in case I'll ever need it (CRT dying or whatever). Simply having an HDMI-out that supports native resolutions as well as RTG on the stock case would be ideal, however thats propably the price you pay for small cases just like back in the day.
@@meaningless-z5t VampireV2-1200 and internal scandoubler is your best choice.
Hmm.. I'll wait for the update to the updated update of the updated update..
New to open source software?
What advantage does this have over the individual computers implementation.
Price.......
i made mine through osh park for very cheap
Has anybody recognized from the schematics or Gerber files which IC circuits you have to solder on the board I?
I am asking for the V2 board....Thanks for your time
I put a parts list in the video description.
I have yet to figure out how to enable scanlines. However I have my adaptors (V1 and V2) set to lowest smoothing filther. I think that gives the best blend of CRT and LCD (emulator quality) experience,
Scanlines were just implemented in the last beta version. The setting didn’t do anything before that. I have yet to try the smoothing options. :)
@@JanBeta To me it does not matter. The smoothing filther is what I like the best. It is the first smoothing, that you find in the menu, after default settings is enabled. I was disappointed with Rebels Megademo II, at first. The outlines of the Rebels logo, in the loading splash screen, looked strange in default settings. However smoothing enabled, makes the pixels slightly softer, and I think it gives this beautifull mix of CRT and LCD quality compromis/combination. It makes it all look like as if the quality of CRT had a notch up.
@@JanBeta You can check it in some of my videoes, that I made about both V1 and V2 adaptors. They both give the exact same result, no matter if it is my OCS Amiga500 or my Rev 8a.1 Amiga500.
im curious what does your kid make of your old computers
We frequently play Bubble Bobble on the C64. ;)
@@JanBeta Excellent choice!
IT Kloppo!
Anyone know of a tutorial to build the adapter board? Im pretty clueless on this stuff but want to give it a try
I ordered parts to build some boards a couple of days ago and am going to do a step by step tutorial video soon(ish).
Does it work with the HAM modes?
Yes, all the OCS modes work.
Jan Beta Great! A demonstration using DeluxePaint in ham + interleaved mode would be realy nice! I killed my eyes back in the day using there modes.
The Giana Sisters title screen I show in this video is an interlaced HAM picture I think. But I can double check in DPaint when I’m back in the lab.
I wonder if would work on the Amiga 2000?
Yes, it works on the Amiga 2000. If you have an ECS Denise chip, the additional ECS resolutions don’t work though.
@@JanBeta Thanks for the quick answer jan, love your videos :)
@@JanBeta V2 of the adaptor have a jumper for OCS and ECS Denise. 😉
Nice video, thank you. The general question is what's the point of using Raspberry PI to work as RGB 2 HDMI converter for Amiga if Raspberry Pi can emulate the whole Amiga hardware. OK it's better to use Pi3 or faster ARM but then you have Amiga 4000 at least :)
The Zero is way better suited for the job. Something about how it processes data through GPIO (I have not dived that much into it).
I know that one person, made a Frankenstein-MOD to his a600, by soldering wires directly to the Denise SMD chip, because he has a Furia accelerator. Then he used an PI3. Yet that takes up space, and the Zero is better suited for the task anyway. He said it worked as in he got a picture. He did not talk about lag. Also, the PI are powered from the motherboard, so it is best to use as low power consuming devices as possible.
If someone design a special adaptor board, that can go under stuff like the Furia or Vampire. Then it can be done in an a600 as well. I just dont think it is the best for a3000, because users tend to use ECS high resolution screenmodes in WB on that model.
The emulators for raspberry pi, while outstanding, are not perfect yet and most of what we want to do with Amigas is timing-critical i.e. gaming, audio and graphics apps. But a PC is great for virtually all Amiga games and a Pi is great for MOST Amiga games, the ones that don't run well on a Pi via WHDload often do run well via .adf disc images for some reason (e.g. Agony).
@@davidste60 True... I have not dived into VampireV4 and compatibility yet. However I have a feeling that it is much the same as an Amiga4000/040.
For many the hobby is the original hardware etc.
@@flekkzo True. Yet we can not all have an Amiga1200, 2000, 3000 or 4000. Especially not Commodore branded CRT's. A mint condition CRT with Commodore logo, cost today the same as a framemeister.
Holy shit the mouse at 1:36 . Do an episode about how yellow that mouse is lmao. Thanks Jan, good video as always :)
It is a yellow mouse by design. It’s not yellowed. :D
Solidarity with the brothers at homeschooling 😉
Wohnst du im Norden? 😁
Ja, ziemlich weit oben.
@@JanBeta für mich sahen die Häuserwände nämlich stark nach aus. 😊👍🏼 Würde Glauben auch gern da wohnen.
Ich brauch sowas für den C64! HDMI am 64er wäre geil! ❤
Cooperdragon hat einer RGB mod gemacht und einer HDMI gemacht. Aber dieser sind sehr teuer. Die bester fur die preis, is die Retrotink 2x oder x2. Die mini version kannst man von Pixelperfection kaufen. Entschuldigung meiner schlectes Deutch. Ich bin von Danemark, und habe nur drei oder vier mahl deutch geschreibt, zeit 1999.
@@brostenen Ich habe nichts über Pixelperfection gefunden. 😐 Ich benutze BMC64 wegen HDMI, mein echter C64 mit KungFuFlash und TapeCard steht sinnlos rum weil ich keinen CRT habe.... 🤔 Da irgendwas mit HDMI wäre so genial! ❤❤❤
@@negative1307 Diese hier...
videogameperfection.com/products/commodore-component-installation/
Und dann kanst du die externer RGBtoHDMI benutzen. Die habe einer C64 profile.
I will continue in English....
You have to keep an eye out for the Retrotink mini edition. They are for sale from time to time, yet extremely quickly sold out. I ordered the last one yesterday. There were only the purple one left. And only one. Just keep an eye out for a new batch. Or go for the internal RGB mod plus the cheaper RGBtoHDMI solution.
OK, mal für ganz Dumme: Was muss ich machen, damit ich meinen alten Amiga 500 nicht an meinen Commodore 1084, sondern an einen modernen Flachbildschirm anschließen kann? Und das Ganze möglichst, ohne das Gerät auseinanderzunehmen und umzulöten.
Es gibt diverse sogenannte Upscaler und Scandoubler, die das RGB-Videosignal vom Amiga auf einen HDMI-Ausgang umwandeln können. Du brauchst ein Amiga-SCART Kabel und eins dieser Geräte. Ich empfehle den OSSC oder den RetroTink5X. Es gibt deutlich günstigere Lösungen, allerdings haben die meistens Qualitätsprobleme und so viel Lag, dass damit Spiele nicht wirklich Spaß machen.
@@JanBeta ich danke dir!
Mittlerweile sind auch die Grund-Boards auf ebay erhältlich...
Hello Jan. I'm starting to "diversify" my online media platforms in the wake of a great deal of censorship and takedowns by big tech. I'm wondering if you are posting your videos to any other platforms?
No, just quit LBRY/Odysee a couple of days ago because of their unprofessional behavior. Looking into other solutions now.
@@JanBeta funny I've heard that from others too