@@zvautobuild8832 No problem! Reaching the 13mm in the passenger footwell was hard. Other than that, simple fix. Thanks for saving me the time of diagnosing it.
I thought this problem needed the full cable replacement to the starter. Because the cable itself got corroded. My 997 won't charge the battery when driving and also has sluggish start.
@@vancegillenwater9609 I've had times where I had to change the cable, due to the cable being damaged, but that only happened because the owner continued using it,8 forcing current Everytime he would crank the car for long periods. Everytime you do that the cable gets really hot and starts to melt the protective shielding around the wire, causing it to corrode. Is your car still having the charging issue though??
Bravo !! I did the same exact thing one year ago on my car. But it can be done without removing the screw. I threaded it while it’s in the car. I didn’t cut the connector, I just used a nut and bolted it on, no need for the plastic cap, it’s useless anyway.
My 2005 987 Boxster S just started doing this. Battery tests fine. I thought it might be the starter. Definitely going to at least clean the contacts...if that resolves then I know the permanent fix. Great video...thanks!!!
Great video, this problem was also my problem so glad I discovered this and didn't end up changing the rear cable unnecessarily..... However a few pointers. 1. By threading the full length of pin you are reducing the contact area for current to flow through. 2. Copper ease is not conductive. In my instance I simply cleaned up the connection and put back together, worked and I don't mind doing that once a year if I have to. The better method would be to thread the bar as you have, cut the original hollow cable end off and crimp on a conventional lug and bolt together, might need a spacer or 2. Either way your contribution is saving people alot of money, good work my friend.
@@carlosgonzalez3650 I just sanded the pin with sand paper and used contact cleaner in the plug........ This however is only short term as I plan to buy a replacement pin from porsche to keep it original.
Thank you very much!!! I think I will do the same, I found this Porsche dealer that sells original parts are great discounts. I can send you a link to the part if I find it.
@@carlosgonzalez3650 please do.... I was going to buy it from "design 911" as they normally can get most things....... I think if the pin had a better coating on it from factory we would never had had the problem..... But for such a well engineered car, this can be excused I guess.
Thanks for the video brother, had the same problem, my the starter would not even engage all the way, changed the starter thinking it was that, and no fix, thanks to the video found the problem. My was way corroded… saludos y gracias from Spain.
I had this problem so much that the car would not start. I cleaned the contacts and was looking for a permanent solution. - now I know what to do, thanks!
I had a 2006 997S & that was always something I noticed; although, I never had an issue of it not starting. Just sounded like a 997 until I switched to a 997.2 4S & it was totally different startup.
Thank goodness I saw this video I really hope this fixes my issue can’t tell you how many times I have been to the dealership and they want to change the battery change the ignition switch if that doesn’t work the starter. Can you tell me what part that is or even better what the part number is so I can get one and have it threaded before I start the repair Again thank you for taking the time to share this fix
My videos are designed for people who want to save money and do the jobs themselves, so if you don't mind subscribing to my channel that way I can reach more people and be able to help more people that would be much appreciated, if not I understand and still here is the part number you require 😁
What an endearing character. I must admit, I would be tempted to just clean up the surfaces, put it back together and add some rubber sheathing to slow down the oxidation (and prevent water ingress). But I’m sure the method shown is superior.
What ever work is fine. I do it this way because it will guarantee that the problem won't happen again. Since I have customers to deal with, I don't want them coming back for the same issue you know.
Nice video thanks. Would it be even better not to make the thread all the way down the contact? The thread is only needed at the top half of the contact, where the nut fits on. This would mean that the slide on contact is going on to a smooth surface for maximum contact area, rather than on to a threaded surface, which must reduce contact area?
Also can. The only problem with that is, the inside part of the wire terminal, also rusts. When we cut it and tighten it, that makes the outside part of the wire terminal also become a contact point, therefore passing more current. Now I'm not saying your idea won't work, but honestly I haven't tried that yet. I'll try it one day and if it works I will pin your comment and reply that it works 👍
An easy way is to do a voltage drop from the source (battery) to the load (starter) while starting and it should be less than 0.5V...usually less. If it is that, you have no issues with the cable or connections.
This is the method we used to find the fault. Now it's become a common repair. To replace that terminal is very expensive (terminal is not sold alone that's why it's expensive). This is a way to permanently repair the fault, without hurting your wallet. That's why I share it 👍
@@zvautobuild8832 Well oddly enough, my friend's 2005 997 with about 180K kms or about 112K miles has never had an issue with that junction at the firewall . He did buy the cable from the transmission junction to the starter and alternator which was not the issue as all the connections were normal (copper instead of heated blue copper due to corrosion at the crimp and the associated resisitance). His issue was a starter motor which would turn slowly after the car had run for a while and was hot (a second start, etc). The cummutator on the starter armature was dirty and had a bit of grease on it. I rebuilt it my self. He now has a spare starter motor that is perfect The un-necessary cable installation at the rear of the engine was a bit of a job.
I would hate for this guy to work on my car slapping those tools all around without a fender cover. That’s the big issue with these so call mechanics at the dealers. Nevertheless Ty for the vid.
instead of a permanent fix, would a simple sanding of the terminal and the post, without messing with the distribution block inside the car, be a good temporary solution? That temporary fix could be done in 30 minutes or less. No need for a machine to create a thread on the post, etc.
Sure can, it's very tight there so if you can get your hand in to sand it then go for it. I give this permanent solution due to the fact that I hate doing the same job more than once (especially if it's my own car) I figured most people would feel the same.
@@zvautobuild8832 thanks for the quick response! Mine is a porsche cayman, and that terminal and post are very easy to access. It did take me about 30 minutes to sand off the corrosion on both of them.
@@zvautobuild8832 yes, it did solve my extremely slow cranking issue. So glad that I ran across your video; I was ready to spend money and lots of time to replace the starter.
The chances of anything going wrong is minimum. the worst that could happen is your positive terminal at the distribution block earthing out. But these cars have a very good electrical system so if that were to happen you will blow the big main fuse and the car will not start.
I have this problem on my 997.1 so I carried out this repair however, now everything is reinstated the car struggles to idle and the psm light is on? Any ideas?
@zvautobuild8832 yes, I followed your instructions exactly. Not sure why but I took it for a spirited 30 min drive and all seems to have corrected itself? It may have just not liked the battery being disconnected? Starts like and absolutely dream now once warm too. Thanks for the video 👍
Your battery was disconnected for a whole, so your ecu is learning, I bet the psm or other lights are on when you first start the car. It will take 10 mins of driving to be back to normal
Outstanding video. Thank you so much for taking the effort to make this! Fixed my 997.1 with the slow crank.
I've been waiting for this comment, where someone has tried this repair and have had success with it, so thank you
@@zvautobuild8832 No problem! Reaching the 13mm in the passenger footwell was hard. Other than that, simple fix. Thanks for saving me the time of diagnosing it.
I thought this problem needed the full cable replacement to the starter. Because the cable itself got corroded. My 997 won't charge the battery when driving and also has sluggish start.
@@vancegillenwater9609 I've had times where I had to change the cable, due to the cable being damaged, but that only happened because the owner continued using it,8 forcing current Everytime he would crank the car for long periods. Everytime you do that the cable gets really hot and starts to melt the protective shielding around the wire, causing it to corrode. Is your car still having the charging issue though??
Perfect video.. can you do mine please? Belfast Northern Ireland lol
Bravo !! I did the same exact thing one year ago on my car.
But it can be done without removing the screw. I threaded it while it’s in the car.
I didn’t cut the connector, I just used a nut and bolted it on, no need for the plastic cap, it’s useless anyway.
My 2005 987 Boxster S just started doing this. Battery tests fine. I thought it might be the starter. Definitely going to at least clean the contacts...if that resolves then I know the permanent fix. Great video...thanks!!!
Great video, this problem was also my problem so glad I discovered this and didn't end up changing the rear cable unnecessarily..... However a few pointers.
1. By threading the full length of pin you are reducing the contact area for current to flow through.
2. Copper ease is not conductive.
In my instance I simply cleaned up the connection and put back together, worked and I don't mind doing that once a year if I have to.
The better method would be to thread the bar as you have, cut the original hollow cable end off and crimp on a conventional lug and bolt together, might need a spacer or 2.
Either way your contribution is saving people alot of money, good work my friend.
Thank you, much appreciated.
Omg thank you sooo much!! Which tools and products did you use to clean the connectors?
@@carlosgonzalez3650 I just sanded the pin with sand paper and used contact cleaner in the plug........ This however is only short term as I plan to buy a replacement pin from porsche to keep it original.
Thank you very much!!! I think I will do the same, I found this Porsche dealer that sells original parts are great discounts. I can send you a link to the part if I find it.
@@carlosgonzalez3650 please do.... I was going to buy it from "design 911" as they normally can get most things....... I think if the pin had a better coating on it from factory we would never had had the problem..... But for such a well engineered car, this can be excused I guess.
This was a huge help. Thanks for making, definitely saved me some headaches!
Thanks for the video brother, had the same problem, my the starter would not even engage all the way, changed the starter thinking it was that, and no fix, thanks to the video found the problem. My was way corroded… saludos y gracias from Spain.
Saludos hermano. Y gracias por El comento. Me alegro que te ayudo El video 😁
I have the same issue on my 997, now I can address the problem. Thank you.
This is why I make these videos 😁
You're welcome. Please consider subscribing so I can keep making these videos to help out
Purchased a battery and starter , haven’t installed yet and just found video! Gina give it a try! Thanks a bunch
Your welcome, hopefully it's the repairs you need, then get a refund on the parts you purchased and save some money 👍
Why did they combine those two metals like that in the first place? Good solid repair.
I had this problem so much that the car would not start. I cleaned the contacts and was looking for a permanent solution. - now I know what to do, thanks!
Let me know if it works for you 👍
Just picked up my first 997.1 yesterday, thanks from saving me from buying a battery. Out to the garage now.
I had a 2006 997S & that was always something I noticed; although, I never had an issue of it not starting. Just sounded like a 997 until I switched to a 997.2 4S & it was totally different startup.
Thank you…good to know.
Thanks for the tips
Thank goodness I saw this video I really hope this fixes my issue can’t tell you how many times I have been to the dealership and they want to change the battery change the ignition switch if that doesn’t work the starter. Can you tell me what part that is or even better what the part number is so I can get one and have it threaded before I start the repair
Again thank you for taking the time to share this fix
@ 6:27 the part number for that piece is 99761091600. If you type Porsche and that part number on Google, you will find the piece you are looking for.
My videos are designed for people who want to save money and do the jobs themselves, so if you don't mind subscribing to my channel that way I can reach more people and be able to help more people that would be much appreciated, if not I understand and still here is the part number you require 😁
What an endearing character.
I must admit, I would be tempted to just clean up the surfaces, put it back together and add some rubber sheathing to slow down the oxidation (and prevent water ingress).
But I’m sure the method shown is superior.
What ever work is fine. I do it this way because it will guarantee that the problem won't happen again. Since I have customers to deal with, I don't want them coming back for the same issue you know.
excellent video. thanks!
Nice..
Nice video thanks. Would it be even better not to make the thread all the way down the contact? The thread is only needed at the top half of the contact, where the nut fits on. This would mean that the slide on contact is going on to a smooth surface for maximum contact area, rather than on to a threaded surface, which must reduce contact area?
Also can. The only problem with that is, the inside part of the wire terminal, also rusts. When we cut it and tighten it, that makes the outside part of the wire terminal also become a contact point, therefore passing more current. Now I'm not saying your idea won't work, but honestly I haven't tried that yet. I'll try it one day and if it works I will pin your comment and reply that it works 👍
An easy way is to do a voltage drop from the source (battery) to the load (starter) while starting and it should be less than 0.5V...usually less. If it is that, you have no issues with the cable or connections.
This is the method we used to find the fault. Now it's become a common repair. To replace that terminal is very expensive (terminal is not sold alone that's why it's expensive). This is a way to permanently repair the fault, without hurting your wallet. That's why I share it 👍
@@zvautobuild8832 Well oddly enough, my friend's 2005 997 with about 180K kms or about 112K miles has never had an issue with that junction at the firewall . He did buy the cable from the transmission junction to the starter and alternator which was not the issue as all the connections were normal (copper instead of heated blue copper due to corrosion at the crimp and the associated resisitance). His issue was a starter motor which would turn slowly after the car had run for a while and was hot (a second start, etc). The cummutator on the starter armature was dirty and had a bit of grease on it. I rebuilt it my self. He now has a spare starter motor that is perfect The un-necessary cable installation at the rear of the engine was a bit of a job.
I would hate for this guy to work on my car slapping those tools all around without a fender cover. That’s the big issue with these so call mechanics at the dealers. Nevertheless Ty for the vid.
Don't forget, holding a camera around while working on the cars 🤣🤣🤣 you can't make everyone happy I guess
I have 2006 997 3.8 if i want to buy the wire connect and stud connector what is the part number? thank you s much
👍from Malaysia 👍
Malaysia boleh 💪
instead of a permanent fix, would a simple sanding of the terminal and the post, without messing with the distribution block inside the car, be a good temporary solution? That temporary fix could be done in 30 minutes or less. No need for a machine to create a thread on the post, etc.
Sure can, it's very tight there so if you can get your hand in to sand it then go for it. I give this permanent solution due to the fact that I hate doing the same job more than once (especially if it's my own car) I figured most people would feel the same.
@@zvautobuild8832 thanks for the quick response! Mine is a porsche cayman, and that terminal and post are very easy to access. It did take me about 30 minutes to sand off the corrosion on both of them.
@@Chitown388 that's awesome, I hope it fixed the slow cranking issue. Thanks for your comment too.
@@zvautobuild8832 yes, it did solve my extremely slow cranking issue. So glad that I ran across your video; I was ready to spend money and lots of time to replace the starter.
I want to do this for my 2008 997 how difficult you think im mechanically inclined
The chances of anything going wrong is minimum. the worst that could happen is your positive terminal at the distribution block earthing out. But these cars have a very good electrical system so if that were to happen you will blow the big main fuse and the car will not start.
I have this problem on my 997.1 so I carried out this repair however, now everything is reinstated the car struggles to idle and the psm light is on? Any ideas?
Did you make sure to install that cable back in that I mention 5:17 this is important as it can cause you a lot of issues if you dont
I also mention it and show the cable installed to the terminal at 8:00 please check that
@zvautobuild8832 yes, I followed your instructions exactly. Not sure why but I took it for a spirited 30 min drive and all seems to have corrected itself? It may have just not liked the battery being disconnected? Starts like and absolutely dream now once warm too. Thanks for the video 👍
Your battery was disconnected for a whole, so your ecu is learning, I bet the psm or other lights are on when you first start the car. It will take 10 mins of driving to be back to normal
What thread did you use?
M8 1.25
@@zvautobuild8832 Thank you
Should have done it on the car with the slow start. hahahaha
Hahahaha. I did the repair on the other one too, but I had already made the whole recording on this GT3rs so I just used that video
Terrible video but I got the joke. Thanks
Knock on wood I've not had that problem yet, but I won't forget the cure if I do. Thank you !