just today i was having snail trails, and in my case there was too much ink in my screen. the problem went away when i removed some of the ink. im new to printing but managed to sort it out.
I just used this FN Ink on my last run. It made for fast work. Only 50 front print, all white. The flash was like 6 seconds then the second hit was nice and bright. Definitely liked it.
great review and appreciate your honesty - you SHOULD be getting paid for this in my opinion - your content is far superior than what they have been producing in the last few years and it will drive sales - anyway - keep up the good work. I really like your content. PEACE
Thanks so much man! If I was getting paid then it would be hard to be objective about it and or have any trust with the people watching, but they've been really cool to me and sent over plenty of stuff to keep the content flowing over here 🤘🏻
I am just starting out in screen printing well waiting for my Riley equipment to come in. Basicly bought same set up but went 6x6 instead of the 8x8. I actually have watched almost all of your printing and start up videos. Defently giving me allot of good pointers to start from when it all comes in. Just figuring out embroidery while I wait lol. Keep up the great work and thanks for all the info.
I was told not to use a drill bit to steer the ink. I was told to fold it over to mix it up. The drill bit steers it too fast and heats up the ink and activates the curing agent. That’s what I was told by Mcbee Supply.
@@leestuart38 not sure what you mean by not physically possible. they said that was union inks recommendation. as i think back i do believe she was referring to the low cure inks because the curing agent will activate and the life of the ink in the container wont last as long. if anything its something to ask the suppliers about. I'm just going off what my supplier told me. P.S. Love your channel, and it inspires me to be a better printer! Thank you!
once again killing it on the vid ! my fave part was when you talked about running the pantone colors down the dryer. was about to rip into you about curing temps... then you spoke up about it ! pro move. pro move !
I just bought some of their ink last night. Red, Blue, Green, Yellow, and Orange (orange for fun). Then I saw this video this morning, at first I was like, oops did I jump the gun. After watching the video, I think I made a good choice. Can't wait for it to come to play around with.
The main thing holding me back from getting this ink is the fact that when using it as an underbase, I can’t use regular inks as overprints. Ryonet has recommended against using the 2 together. But I guess if you have a bunch of other low cure colors, this seems pretty good.
I'm not sure why they would say that, unless they're just referring to the fact that it's a low cure and standard isn't so the standard wouldn't cure properly. I run this stuff through my dryer at 350° with no issues
You can 100% use them together. The reason to try and not use them together: FN can get glossy at higher dryer temps, like those used to cure regular plastisol inks on cotton garments. So, while it is not recommended - it is 100% doable.
Lee Stuart Yes it’s basically the reason Collin Huggins replied to my comment with. The different curing temperatures would cause the FN ink to possibly be a bit glossy. May not be a big deal to some people but if I were to use these inks, I’d make sure not to use regular inks along side them on a print. I may eventually completely switch over to low cure either way.
Just stumbled across your videos not too long ago. Really enjoying your video content. Lot of informative material for someone trying to start their own apparel business. Keep it up :)
Have you (or anyone else here) experienced this ink getting much, much thicker as you print? I recently used this stuff on a manual job just doing white *flash* white. I was very pleased with how smooth it was at the beginning of the job but it started to get very thick as I continued. I assume this is just user error on my end and maybe the platens getting warm throughout the run was enough to thicken up this low cure ink as apposed to being no problem with the other standard inks I’ve used before but I’m curious to know if anyone else has experienced this.
NIce Room! And informative video as usual. I love that you do all sorts of trials to find the best way to use things. Putting in the fucking work... Keep it up!
Hello Mate, I see people using Plastisol to make fishing lures.. i was wondering if i can use plastisol ink to make fishing lures or does it require a specific type of plastisol to make fishing lures?? Thanking you in advance..
Ryonet sent me some of the FN-White a couple months ago. My conclusions lined up with yours. I've been through two more gallons of the stuff since I tried it out.
My opinion isn't bought by anyone, it's my own. The problems people are having is under curing and not enough cure dwell time, because the vast majority of people using this ink are beginners and haven't learned the ins and outs of curing properly yet.
@@leestuart38why don’t ink companies give proper instructions for their inks? they say cures at so and so, shouldn’t that just be it then? I do small to medium runs and have random inks and neither of them have any issues plus i use a heat press with light light pressure and it cures fine
not that you would know the answer (maybe) but something J noticed. there’s not a manual for the various types of printing and methods it requires. some people are heavy handed or just simply using a low mesh count too. lots of variables
I had a problem with the cure temp I had dryer set at 290 and done a rush job it really don’t cure at 260. I was using the yellow gold FN. and got FN burnt.
When you say it took you 7-8 seconds, does that mean when you print/flash/print to do multiple layers of white, completely cured or just enough to apply the next coat of white?
Hey Lee I’m about to knock out a camo print. Underbase tan, green and highlight white - I’ve never used there Kelly green is this something that would work good for a camo print (woodland) thanks man
Dehydration is a common cause of dark circles under your eyes. When your body is not receiving the proper amount of water, the skin beneath your eyes begins to look dull and your eyes look sunken. Lee hydrate bring the handsome back!
The biggest thing that I hear people are having from a few groups is that the ink washes out and/or flakes off after one wash even at curing the ink from 260 to 330 degrees. To see if this ink lives up to it's hype, should have done a wash test. I heard this ink prints awesome, but the wash test is the biggest issue from what I have been reading from various groups.
Honestly there was no need. I've been through all of the comments in the groups and everyone having problems simply isn't curing properly. Not one of them had an actual dryer so there's the first red flag, and none of them used any sort of dwell time which is super important. I've washed the shirt I'm wearing already and no problems at all
Hey man, great channel/feed. I have watched quite a few of your videos and they are very informative. So thank you for that! I was going to ask you about this ink. Do you still use it? I know you have some sort of connection with Ryonet, so Im sure you can't say anything too negative about this ink, but do you still use it? Also, what is your current favorite white ink? Like you, I used to use Epic Lava from Wilflex, purchased through Ryonet. And also like you, I found it to be a bear to work with. I actually use to use mineral spirits (small amounts) to loosen it up, and that worked pretty well without affecting the opacity. Then I got a sample of International Coatins Legacy white and its creaminess blew me away. That is now my go to white as its pretty damn amazing all around. Only problem is that price. You mention Rutland's Street Fighter white, do you still use it? I tried some Rutland white a couple years ago and it was like cement. I still have a half a gallon that will prob never be used. I also got a sample quart of FN from Ryonet about a year ago. I tried it on some 100% cotton and did not like the opacity very much. Even after a p/f/p it was not up to my standards as far as opacity goes. It was also not as smooth as what I could achieve with Epic Lava or Legacy white. Ok, im rambling, but more questions, is your clothing brand on IG? I also have a clothing brand, Observer, or @observe_co on IG. Anyway, I might look you up on IG. Finally, I would love to get you on the phone for a min with some questions about some of the stuff you covered in this video. I am like a mad scientist trying to get the perfect plastisol prints. I have an on-press smoothing technique that I never see mentioned anyway, and its far better than smoothing screens or rollers, as ive tried both extensively. Smoothing screens take up a print head, and on a manual machine, that is not alway possible. If im on a 6 color machine and have to print a 6 color job, a smoothing screen aint gonna cut it. So I came up with something else and it has absolutely changed the game for me. It does add a little time to each round, but considering the smoothness Im getting from it (like a heat press almost) its more than worth it. Anyway, my apologies for the long winded comment. I just absolutely geek out to this stuff and can talk about it for hours. haha thanks for reading and hit me up on IG if you can. Oh and let me know if and when you might have like 15-20 mins to chat. You know your shit and I think we could share some ideas. Thanks man!
I don't really use FN much. It's an ok ink but I'd call it middle of the road now that I've gained a lot more experience. We mainly print for high end clients and brands so I want a high end finish, so for that I stick with wilflex inks. I'll pull out the FN if I'm doing contractor shirts or something where the quality isn't as crucial
great review man. I actually bought some FN white ink and I gotta be honest it really just doesn't clear the screen that great. I have to do 3 passes to get a good coat. I really wanna try street fighter white. Does it work well on polyester cotton blends?
Weird, I didn't have that issue. I can clear it nearly 100% in one pass, definitely in the second. Might wanna try different setups or technique. But the streetfighter comes in a low bleed for printing on blends, and a pure cotton version. Definitely don't try to use the low bleed on pure cotton because it will ghost
@@leestuart38 ok it may be my shop temp. I keep it kinda cold here in NY. I'm gonna try Street fighter out and I really wanna try total ink solutions all purpose ink. I recently tried their metallic inks and it's pretty much perfect. I gotta look up ghosting not sure what that is. Thanks for the reply bro.
Have you ever tired inkcraft ? Haven't tried it yet but would like to support a Canadian company. I use FN ink right now but green galaxy Canada has insane shipping rates for me.
Mesh depends on the art and the garment. But you don't want to cure this stuff too hot or it gets really shiny and kind plastic feeling, like any low cure ink
Some didn't make it, some killed it. Really depends on your market and the type of clients you print for. Diversity is key and a lot of people learned that the hard way this past year
Hello Lee Stuart, I have the 6 screen, 2 platen Riley Hopkins Semi Pro Max. How many inches should I set my flash dryer above my platens when I cure my hoodies that have a thicker matterial vs a thinner t shirt. And how many minutes shoud I cure my hoodies with my flash dryer?
Your flash will change heights depending on the garment and how fast you can print, there's really no set height. But if you're curing hoodies with a flash I definitely recommend a few inches of height because they can scorch and burn up pretty easily. Other than that make sure you're getting at least 20-30 seconds of cure time after it hits 320°
BTW, give One Strokes NPT White a try. Low cure, and the CREAMIEST white I've used. It's about $110 USD, but well worth it. If you grab some up, let them know Matt with Mikey Designs sent you.
Plastisol never really goes bad unless it somehow gets filled with contaminants. Grab a small drywall mud mixing bit for your drill and mix it up real good, should be good to go.
@@matiashayes5522 If the ink is well stirred/modulated for about a minute with a drill - and it is still to sticky/stringy/thick it may have gotten to hot at some point in the past, this causes the ink to "gell" which is the same as if you flashed the ink on press. You cant get the ink to come back from that point. If the ink becomes easier to move and print when warm, its fine, its just a thicker ink. But definitely get the ink warm and in the upper 85* or more for testing.
@@leestuart38 nice thanks even oh hoodies right? i shouldve explained that yesterday i usually use union ink but i cant find any so i gotta try something else
Thanks. I have been having all kind of trouble getting it to look even decent with union and wilflex, thought I may not have a thick enough stencil. Back to the drawing board.
Is that a 1/1 with the round side of the scoop coater? I just recently started using that instead of a 2/1 with the sharp side and have been loving the results.
@@leestuart38 Thanks Lee, I appreciate your videos. I think I asked the question before you said it in the actual video but thanks for responding anyway. God Bless.
@@leestuart38 oh for sure I don’t know a whole lot about you but you seem like a nice honest guy that knows what he’s talking about. I was just ordering supplies and your face was plastered all over their website directly before this and looked up a review on the ink and there you were again. Cheers brother didn’t mean to come off the way I did if I offended you.
@@barrettskulI appreciate that man. I've have been working with them pretty closely the past couple of years, this video was just before the beginning of that. Even though I work with them now, I still will say exactly what I think about their product no matter what. I have a few videos from last year talking about some horror stories in my next shop (that they came and fixed). My opinion will never be for sale, the trust of the viewers is worth more to me. 👊🏻
@@leestuart38 hi. thanks for the reply. that's what i keep hearing. its "undercured". but riddle me this...why would it take longer to cure a "low cure" ink? i switched back to lava white after trying the white fn ink and every thing was fine again.
Click here bit.ly/leestuart38 to subscribe for more rad stuff, and click that damn bell for me!
Left out on hoodies
Try a flood then pull stroke like clearing while the screen is above the print and then push. That’s how we do all our whites.
just today i was having snail trails, and in my case there was too much ink in my screen. the problem went away when i removed some of the ink. im new to printing but managed to sort it out.
I just used this FN Ink on my last run. It made for fast work. Only 50 front print, all white. The flash was like 6 seconds then the second hit was nice and bright. Definitely liked it.
Nice! It's pretty good stuff
great review and appreciate your honesty - you SHOULD be getting paid for this in my opinion - your content is far superior than what they have been producing in the last few years and it will drive sales - anyway - keep up the good work. I really like your content. PEACE
Thanks so much man! If I was getting paid then it would be hard to be objective about it and or have any trust with the people watching, but they've been really cool to me and sent over plenty of stuff to keep the content flowing over here 🤘🏻
payment can and usually does cloud bias,
He is sponsored by them lol he’s getting paid
He is sponsored by them lol he’s getting paid
He is sponsored by them lol he’s getting paid
I'm starting my home print shop with fn ink tomorrow I'll be doing my first shirts thank you for the inspiration and tips
You are still our hero Lee
I am just starting out in screen printing well waiting for my Riley equipment to come in. Basicly bought same set up but went 6x6 instead of the 8x8. I actually have watched almost all of your printing and start up videos. Defently giving me allot of good pointers to start from when it all comes in. Just figuring out embroidery while I wait lol. Keep up the great work and thanks for all the info.
Hell ya glad to hear that man. Next Sunday's video has some valuable advice for people starting out so make sure to check that out. Good luck 🙌🏻
Look forward to it man thanks
I was told not to use a drill bit to steer the ink. I was told to fold it over to mix it up. The drill bit steers it too fast and heats up the ink and activates the curing agent. That’s what I was told by Mcbee Supply.
That is very incorrect and physically impossible haha
@@leestuart38 not sure what you mean by not physically possible. they said that was union inks recommendation. as i think back i do believe she was referring to the low cure inks because the curing agent will activate and the life of the ink in the container wont last as long. if anything its something to ask the suppliers about. I'm just going off what my supplier told me.
P.S. Love your channel, and it inspires me to be a better printer! Thank you!
thank you, Lee Stuart!) very nice print !)
Thanks 🙏🏻
once again killing it on the vid ! my fave part was when you talked about running the pantone colors down the dryer. was about to rip into you about curing temps... then you spoke up about it ! pro move. pro move !
Haha I'm usually in top of things 😎
Great video as always…keep it Going
Would you be able to do a video explaining when to use the different ranges of the mesh screens?
I plan on it in the near future 👍🏻
Really good ink ❤️❤️ lived up to the tests you given it
I love how you explain your videos with great details thanks
Glad to hear, thanks 🤘🏻
It was like I was watching an episode of Mythbusters: White Plastisol! Loved it! Thanks Lee!
Glad to hear you liked it 🙌🏻
Great review, keeping it real and honest. Covered all the crucial bases.
Thanks a lot!
Great info!!! Thank You
Glad to help 👊🏻
I just bought some of their ink last night. Red, Blue, Green, Yellow, and Orange (orange for fun). Then I saw this video this morning, at first I was like, oops did I jump the gun. After watching the video, I think I made a good choice. Can't wait for it to come to play around with.
It's good stuff
The main thing holding me back from getting this ink is the fact that when using it as an underbase, I can’t use regular inks as overprints. Ryonet has recommended against using the 2 together. But I guess if you have a bunch of other low cure colors, this seems pretty good.
I'm not sure why they would say that, unless they're just referring to the fact that it's a low cure and standard isn't so the standard wouldn't cure properly. I run this stuff through my dryer at 350° with no issues
You can 100% use them together. The reason to try and not use them together: FN can get glossy at higher dryer temps, like those used to cure regular plastisol inks on cotton garments. So, while it is not recommended - it is 100% doable.
Lee Stuart Yes it’s basically the reason Collin Huggins replied to my comment with. The different curing temperatures would cause the FN ink to possibly be a bit glossy. May not be a big deal to some people but if I were to use these inks, I’d make sure not to use regular inks along side them on a print. I may eventually completely switch over to low cure either way.
Just stumbled across your videos not too long ago. Really enjoying your video content. Lot of informative material for someone trying to start their own apparel business. Keep it up :)
Really happy to hear that. I have plenty more printing and clothing related content coming, we're going hard with it in the new year 🤘🏻
Can’t wait!
Nice review. Copped a QT not long ago, looking forward to trying it out.
Thanks man. I'm definitely liking it so far, I just opened the black and can definitely say I'm a big fan of that one
Still need a red bull sled on that shelf LoL
Have you (or anyone else here) experienced this ink getting much, much thicker as you print? I recently used this stuff on a manual job just doing white *flash* white. I was very pleased with how smooth it was at the beginning of the job but it started to get very thick as I continued. I assume this is just user error on my end and maybe the platens getting warm throughout the run was enough to thicken up this low cure ink as apposed to being no problem with the other standard inks I’ve used before but I’m curious to know if anyone else has experienced this.
Could be your pallets getting too hot. You can usually tell it's happening when it's getting more difficult to clear the screen
@@leestuart38 Yeah. That’s the only possibility I could think of. Thanks!
NIce Room! And informative video as usual. I love that you do all sorts of trials to find the best way to use things. Putting in the fucking work... Keep it up!
I try my best to do that! Thanks man
Hello Mate, I see people using Plastisol to make fishing lures.. i was wondering if i can use plastisol ink to make fishing lures or does it require a specific type of plastisol to make fishing lures?? Thanking you in advance..
Great vid Lee!
Thanks man 🤘🏻
Ryonet sent me some of the FN-White a couple months ago. My conclusions lined up with yours. I've been through two more gallons of the stuff since I tried it out.
Definitely some nice stuff, I'm excited to try out some of the other colors
Me too. I ordered some Kelly green yesterday. I'm a little concerned that it might end up being a little thin but.... We shall see!
Nice colors on the orange gray combo. Did you mix the orange ink yourself?
can you tell me your conveyer dryer settings for this ink? ty!
Awesome shit like always ! Thanks for the review on this .
Thanks man, hope it was decent for a first ever review
Been hearing people complain about curing issues with this ink, but you never know the agreement with Ryonet and their people that review their ink.
My opinion isn't bought by anyone, it's my own. The problems people are having is under curing and not enough cure dwell time, because the vast majority of people using this ink are beginners and haven't learned the ins and outs of curing properly yet.
@@leestuart38why don’t ink companies give proper instructions for their inks? they say cures at so and so, shouldn’t that just be it then?
I do small to medium runs and have random inks and neither of them have any issues plus i use a heat press with light light pressure and it cures fine
not that you would know the answer (maybe) but something J noticed. there’s not a manual for the various types of printing and methods it requires. some people are heavy handed or just simply using a low mesh count too. lots of variables
I had a problem with the cure temp I had dryer set at 290 and done a rush job it really don’t cure at 260. I was using the yellow gold FN. and got FN burnt.
I've had no issues since
Great job on your first review. What blank shirts do you use?
$74 a gallon today
Cool review for ink and all... you would make some killer motorcycle or gear reviews too. Did you see the game on Sunday?
When you say it took you 7-8 seconds, does that mean when you print/flash/print to do multiple layers of white, completely cured or just enough to apply the next coat of white?
That's just a flash. Full cure for any plastisol takes 20 seconds or more dwell time at cure temp depending on the ink and thickness of the print
@@leestuart38 thanks!!!
Hey Lee I’m about to knock out a camo print. Underbase tan, green and highlight white - I’ve never used there Kelly green is this something that would work good for a camo print (woodland) thanks man
Dehydration is a common cause of dark circles under your eyes. When your body is not receiving the proper amount of water, the skin beneath your eyes begins to look dull and your eyes look sunken. Lee hydrate bring the handsome back!
The biggest thing that I hear people are having from a few groups is that the ink washes out and/or flakes off after one wash even at curing the ink from 260 to 330 degrees. To see if this ink lives up to it's hype, should have done a wash test. I heard this ink prints awesome, but the wash test is the biggest issue from what I have been reading from various groups.
Honestly there was no need. I've been through all of the comments in the groups and everyone having problems simply isn't curing properly. Not one of them had an actual dryer so there's the first red flag, and none of them used any sort of dwell time which is super important. I've washed the shirt I'm wearing already and no problems at all
Yea I had to redo 167 shirts that had that issue. Ryonet had really nothing to say about it.
Travis Thurston now I don’t even want to open the tub... fuck that ! Bye bye fnink
Can this be cured with a heat press? Or will it give the same negative results?
Love the Video.Just Curious what was the Reason for the brand name?
Thanks. The brand name is personal to me
Whats the brand of the ink you usually use? Rutland?
Typically wilflex, sometimes Rutland
As always a great video and really well done review dude.
Thanks homie 🤘🏻
Hey man, great channel/feed. I have watched quite a few of your videos and they are very informative. So thank you for that! I was going to ask you about this ink. Do you still use it? I know you have some sort of connection with Ryonet, so Im sure you can't say anything too negative about this ink, but do you still use it? Also, what is your current favorite white ink? Like you, I used to use Epic Lava from Wilflex, purchased through Ryonet. And also like you, I found it to be a bear to work with. I actually use to use mineral spirits (small amounts) to loosen it up, and that worked pretty well without affecting the opacity. Then I got a sample of International Coatins Legacy white and its creaminess blew me away. That is now my go to white as its pretty damn amazing all around. Only problem is that price. You mention Rutland's Street Fighter white, do you still use it? I tried some Rutland white a couple years ago and it was like cement. I still have a half a gallon that will prob never be used. I also got a sample quart of FN from Ryonet about a year ago. I tried it on some 100% cotton and did not like the opacity very much. Even after a p/f/p it was not up to my standards as far as opacity goes. It was also not as smooth as what I could achieve with Epic Lava or Legacy white. Ok, im rambling, but more questions, is your clothing brand on IG? I also have a clothing brand, Observer, or @observe_co on IG. Anyway, I might look you up on IG. Finally, I would love to get you on the phone for a min with some questions about some of the stuff you covered in this video. I am like a mad scientist trying to get the perfect plastisol prints. I have an on-press smoothing technique that I never see mentioned anyway, and its far better than smoothing screens or rollers, as ive tried both extensively. Smoothing screens take up a print head, and on a manual machine, that is not alway possible. If im on a 6 color machine and have to print a 6 color job, a smoothing screen aint gonna cut it. So I came up with something else and it has absolutely changed the game for me. It does add a little time to each round, but considering the smoothness Im getting from it (like a heat press almost) its more than worth it. Anyway, my apologies for the long winded comment. I just absolutely geek out to this stuff and can talk about it for hours. haha thanks for reading and hit me up on IG if you can. Oh and let me know if and when you might have like 15-20 mins to chat. You know your shit and I think we could share some ideas. Thanks man!
I swear im not as much as a spazz as my comment prob seems. 😂
I don't really use FN much. It's an ok ink but I'd call it middle of the road now that I've gained a lot more experience. We mainly print for high end clients and brands so I want a high end finish, so for that I stick with wilflex inks. I'll pull out the FN if I'm doing contractor shirts or something where the quality isn't as crucial
late to the video buttttttt what mesh count sceen did you use for second design? 160 aswell?
Underbase 160, 230 top colors
great review man. I actually bought some FN white ink and I gotta be honest it really just doesn't clear the screen that great. I have to do 3 passes to get a good coat.
I really wanna try street fighter white. Does it work well on polyester cotton blends?
Weird, I didn't have that issue. I can clear it nearly 100% in one pass, definitely in the second. Might wanna try different setups or technique. But the streetfighter comes in a low bleed for printing on blends, and a pure cotton version. Definitely don't try to use the low bleed on pure cotton because it will ghost
@@leestuart38 ok it may be my shop temp. I keep it kinda cold here in NY. I'm gonna try Street fighter out and I really wanna try total ink solutions all purpose ink. I recently tried their metallic inks and it's pretty much perfect. I gotta look up ghosting not sure what that is. Thanks for the reply bro.
Have you ever tired inkcraft ? Haven't tried it yet but would like to support a Canadian company. I use FN ink right now but green galaxy Canada has insane shipping rates for me.
I haven't tried them yet. You can go direct through ryonet or do you call in, green Galaxy sucks to deal with
@@leestuart38 they are hard to deal with. I thought ryonet didn't sell direct to Canada tried to checkout and Canada wasn't listed.
Mesh size? And any overcuring problems when set the conveyor dryer back to higher temperature?
Mesh depends on the art and the garment. But you don't want to cure this stuff too hot or it gets really shiny and kind plastic feeling, like any low cure ink
How did screen printers do in 2020?... Business as usual or did a lot have to close shop?
Some didn't make it, some killed it. Really depends on your market and the type of clients you print for. Diversity is key and a lot of people learned that the hard way this past year
Lee, What is the red substance on the back of your screen frames?? I have never seen that.
It's the glue for the screen mesh
@@leestuart38 thank you, Never seen red. Thought it was some type of trick? cleaning or something. Videos are great.
What's a manual roller? What's it used for?
Lee looking to get in contact with you about help with a brand logo is there a possibility to do so?
Have you tried the EZ Grip squeegee? They switched me from a pusher to a pullet.
I have a few, not sure how I feel about them yet. I still have to make a video about that
@@leestuart38 this comment aged interestingly 😂
@@liamvella223 that first test went very well 😂
Hey, great video. I’m new to the game and need to know if FN ink has harsh or strong odors. Thanks!
Plastisol ink in general doesn't have a smell
Awesome, so it’s non-toxic? thanks for the quick response!
Lee, we need that klx video you promised us
It'll happen when it happens, work comes first
Great video Lee. Any chance you ran wash tests?
Thanks! I did off camera, they didn't really need to be seen in here since they came out just fine
Hello Lee Stuart, I have the 6 screen, 2 platen Riley Hopkins Semi Pro Max. How many inches should I set my flash dryer above my platens when I cure my hoodies that have a thicker matterial vs a thinner t shirt. And how many minutes shoud I cure my hoodies with my flash dryer?
Your flash will change heights depending on the garment and how fast you can print, there's really no set height. But if you're curing hoodies with a flash I definitely recommend a few inches of height because they can scorch and burn up pretty easily. Other than that make sure you're getting at least 20-30 seconds of cure time after it hits 320°
Thank you VERY MUCH!!!!! You are a GENIUS!!!!!! Really you do your shit well@@leestuart38...
Awesome content as always.
Thanks a lot dude 🤘🏻
BTW, give One Strokes NPT White a try. Low cure, and the CREAMIEST white I've used. It's about $110 USD, but well worth it. If you grab some up, let them know Matt with Mikey Designs sent you.
Were can i get this for 50$ a gallon? I can only find it for 80
Prices in the industry have gone up significantly in pretty much all aspects like most things in the world have since the start of this whole mess.
What's your temps on the flasher and dryer?
hi lee , Is there any printing ink that is good for printing t-shirt aside plastisol.
There's also water based ink
Is there any way to restore old plastisol inks buddy of mine gave me some old ink before I throw it away I would like to try to save it any ideas
Plastisol never really goes bad unless it somehow gets filled with contaminants. Grab a small drywall mud mixing bit for your drill and mix it up real good, should be good to go.
@@leestuart38 it's like really gooey and sticky dont look right but I'll give it a go
@@matiashayes5522 If the ink is well stirred/modulated for about a minute with a drill - and it is still to sticky/stringy/thick it may have gotten to hot at some point in the past, this causes the ink to "gell" which is the same as if you flashed the ink on press. You cant get the ink to come back from that point. If the ink becomes easier to move and print when warm, its fine, its just a thicker ink. But definitely get the ink warm and in the upper 85* or more for testing.
wassup Lee. If you're using FN ink and you want to mix for pantone colors, which mixing system would you use?
FN doesn't have a mixing system. If you want pantones, go with the wilflex epic Rio setup
Hello brother can you explain how we can get colour mixing recipe?
You need an ink mixing system
My push strokes always blur. How do you do either or so perfectly?
Takes a lot of practice to get the right angle, pressure, and speed as well as having good setups when it comes to your mesh, stencil and off contact
do u use rutland sf white to print on 50/50 as well?
I use wilflex quick white now, for pretty much everything
@@leestuart38 nice thanks even oh hoodies right? i shouldve explained that yesterday i usually use union ink but i cant find any so i gotta try something else
So what mesh count did you use on your white base?
Typically 160
Does FN Ink gloss or flat ink print on t-shirt?
I'd call it a semi gloss or satin look
What mesh count and how many coats of emulsion did you use.
160 mesh and 1/1 coat
Thanks. I have been having all kind of trouble getting it to look even decent with union and wilflex, thought I may not have a thick enough stencil. Back to the drawing board.
Is that a 1/1 with the round side of the scoop coater? I just recently started using that instead of a 2/1 with the sharp side and have been loving the results.
Great review. Would love to know how that 2 with underbase does in a few wash tests! Thanks for putting out the content!
They'll hold up for years of abuse when cured right, which these are
Glad to see working class shirt is coming back.
Hell ya one of my favorites, it's almost sold out again already though 😂
What about ecotex?
Not a fan
What plastisol ink do you like best?
Wilflex
@@leestuart38 Thank you! Just starting too. your videos are very helpful and inspirational.
What mesh did you use for the first go?
160
What blanks did you use in this video?
Next level
@@leestuart38 Thanks Lee, I appreciate your videos. I think I asked the question before you said it in the actual video but thanks for responding anyway. God Bless.
what is with the smell?
I farted
Exelente video
Thanks! 🙌🏻
An affiliated review? Those aren’t biased
Yes, I built a reputation of being one of the most brutally honest and trustworthy people in the industry because my opinion is for sale 😂🙄
@@leestuart38 oh for sure I don’t know a whole lot about you but you seem like a nice honest guy that knows what he’s talking about. I was just ordering supplies and your face was plastered all over their website directly before this and looked up a review on the ink and there you were again. Cheers brother didn’t mean to come off the way I did if I offended you.
@@barrettskulI appreciate that man. I've have been working with them pretty closely the past couple of years, this video was just before the beginning of that. Even though I work with them now, I still will say exactly what I think about their product no matter what. I have a few videos from last year talking about some horror stories in my next shop (that they came and fixed). My opinion will never be for sale, the trust of the viewers is worth more to me. 👊🏻
5:23 ah! 2 colors that a Spanish 🐃's eyes can't tell apart.
(by 🐃, l mean bull. You probably knew that)
一如既往的优秀，棒！
I wish I knew what these say 😂
@@leestuart38 Excellent as always, great!😊
this has to be the worst ink ive ever used. it prints smooth but cracks very very easily
All that means is you're not curing it properly, it's under cured
@@leestuart38 hi. thanks for the reply. that's what i keep hearing. its "undercured". but riddle me this...why would it take longer to cure a "low cure" ink? i switched back to lava white after trying the white fn ink and every thing was fine again.