Thank you for making this video! My Stephenson’s rocket was not working and wouldn’t budge on tracks. When I took apart the engine,I saw lots of dirt and cleaned it out. My Stephenson’s rocket can now run on the track as it wants!
Bill, excellent job and a very informative repair video! I had a similar situation with a Tri-ang Rocket that functioned well when I first bought it second hand, but it also mysteriously quit working. After watching your video sequence on taking it apart I was able to ID the problem and make the repair. What I found and believe was the problem, corrosion had occurred on the drive wheel axles and bearings. Once I cleaned them and the motor (as you had done in the video) and repaired the same red wire for the smoke stack, the unit now functions as it should. It is light weight and struggles with traction but will pull the 3 cars and tender as it was designed. I must also say, I've had problems with work surfaces and taking your lead, I now have a dedicated towel surface that is working like a charm. AT 72 1/2 years it proves you're never to old to learn. Thanks again for the video and guidance. It's great to find someone who takes the time to share their knowledge and experience. Best wishes.
Nice job yet again! I have the old Hornby version of the Rocket with coaches. The paperwork dates the set to 1983. I don't think there are any changes compared to this Tri-Ang one. I tested mine and it runs happily with a 9 V battery. So your diagnosis of damaged windings may well be correct. I also have the new Hornby Rocket set. It was overpriced but I just had to have it. I'm sure you understand. 😅
Hi Bill, Great video. I bought a Tri-ang Stephenson's Rocket set during the week and, it ran well on an initial test. Although I always service motors and electrical contacts when I acquire a locomotive (they are usually in dire need of it!!!), I can see from your video that extra attention needs to be given to the rear "bearing", which appears from your video to a plastic part with no oil felt pad or sintered bearing .... no wonder it melted! Cheers.
As always, your patient and methodical approach wins through. I wonder if the owner paid the same as me in the 1960's - after many months of saving pocket money I had the requisite 21/6 (£1.07p) for the Triang 'Rocket' set. Thanks for all the videos
Hello Bill, I always use a small amount of flexible glue to hold the rear bearing to the magnet, I think the bearing has shrunk a bit over time allowing it to wobble about and become noisy etc. Holding it with a dob of silicone restores the motor to quiet smooth running. An enjoyable episode, best regards to you
I've worked on a couple of these.The back bearing is a bit basic and I found some light grease helped. The other issue was that the springs that hold the brushes in tension might need their angles changed slightly to better bed the brushes on to the commutator. Possibly the plastic that holds the brushes was enlarged or maybe slightly distorted due to heat in the past. As you note, amazing for their time. I have mine on radio control now but with the smoke still from the track power.
No firm ever made Brandreth's 'Cycloped', the wagon with a moving belt operated by a horse upon't. (A popular but against-the-rules entry at the Rainhill Trials).
Hi Bill i loved this video - awesome restore. I have a Tri-ang R 54 and am curious as to what is the motor used in it? I am missing the small insulated board from the top and don’t know how to look for it online… i know its a completely unrelated question but any input would be greatly appreciated- thanks
Fitting metal wheels and pickups to the tender would probably work wonders with the running. Similarly with the coaches to reduce rolling resistance, although both would reduce the model's authenticity.
Quite like these wee little models, I'd love to have ome with the smoke unit as I have a tiny first radius layiut so this would be perfect, and also I'm just a sucker for smoke units
Hi Bill ,, I got 1 of these little things given to me as a non runner that was thrown in with a job lot of trains that i had bought but its a Bachmann type with 3 carriages from memory and boy what a nightmare of a little thing to muck with. I did eventually get it going but it didnt stay going for long so i just boxed it for later on when I have more patience. Also hows the new layout going ? Cheers from John in Australia.
Essentially you have one of two problems: mechanical (bearings etc binding due to lack of lubrication or physical obstruction), or electrical (lack of continuity due to dirt or breakage). Inspection and testing should reveal the cause, which could be: - Check whether it works with the plastic gears removed. If it does, could be mechanical problem with wheels/axles. - Dirty commutator. (Clean/lube motor a la OOBill!) - Dry motor bearings (ditto). - Worn out or missing brush/es or brush springs. (") - Then the difficult to spot one... Certain Ringfield motors have the brush retainers held on with screws. These may be different lengths, in which case the longer one provides an electrical connection between the brush and the chassis, the other doesn't. Get them the wrong way round and it won't work! - Damaged armature windings -- check continuity/resistance between the commutator segments -- check each with its neighbour: assuming you have continuity, all 3 (or 5) should have similar resistance (same order of magnitude). - Or something else, but that's all I can think of immediately!
Wonderful.... I have one of the later re-issue of the Rocket... Not sure if it still runs or not.... Far too tiny for me to try and faff around with. And I can't solder to save my life!
It might. If I had one of these I'd be tempted to try replacing the motor and fitting metal wheels and pickups to the tender. They are quite valuable though so I think there is a tendency to leave them alone.
Thank you for making this video! My Stephenson’s rocket was not working and wouldn’t budge on tracks. When I took apart the engine,I saw lots of dirt and cleaned it out. My Stephenson’s rocket can now run on the track as it wants!
Bill, excellent job and a very informative repair video! I had a similar situation with a Tri-ang Rocket that functioned well when I first bought it second hand, but it also mysteriously quit working. After watching your video sequence on taking it apart I was able to ID the problem and make the repair. What I found and believe was the problem, corrosion had occurred on the drive wheel axles and bearings. Once I cleaned them and the motor (as you had done in the video) and repaired the same red wire for the smoke stack, the unit now functions as it should. It is light weight and struggles with traction but will pull the 3 cars and tender as it was designed. I must also say, I've had problems with work surfaces and taking your lead, I now have a dedicated towel surface that is working like a charm. AT 72 1/2 years it proves you're never to old to learn. Thanks again for the video and guidance. It's great to find someone who takes the time to share their knowledge and experience. Best wishes.
Great repair of an old classic from my youth!
You did a great job Bill.
Being 60 years old, the Triang Stephenson's Rocket runs quite well, apart from the stuttering on the points.
Nice job yet again! I have the old Hornby version of the Rocket with coaches. The paperwork dates the set to 1983. I don't think there are any changes compared to this Tri-Ang one. I tested mine and it runs happily with a 9 V battery. So your diagnosis of damaged windings may well be correct. I also have the new Hornby Rocket set. It was overpriced but I just had to have it. I'm sure you understand. 😅
Hi Bill, Great video. I bought a Tri-ang Stephenson's Rocket set during the week and, it ran well on an initial test. Although I always service motors and electrical contacts when I acquire a locomotive (they are usually in dire need of it!!!), I can see from your video that extra attention needs to be given to the rear "bearing", which appears from your video to a plastic part with no oil felt pad or sintered bearing .... no wonder it melted! Cheers.
As always, your patient and methodical approach wins through. I wonder if the owner paid the same as me in the 1960's - after many months of saving pocket money I had the requisite 21/6 (£1.07p) for the Triang 'Rocket' set. Thanks for all the videos
As an electrician of 40 years I would love to see someone rewind that motor. Nice job bill
Paul, if you have a look at Mr Snooze on UA-cam he has just done a series on rewinding and bearing replacement on X04 motors.
Hello Bill, I always use a small amount of flexible glue to hold the rear bearing to the magnet, I think the bearing has shrunk a bit over time allowing it to wobble about and become noisy etc. Holding it with a dob of silicone restores the motor to quiet smooth running. An enjoyable episode, best regards to you
Good one, Bill. Those multi meters sure come in handy. Great forensics all round. Cheers, 🇨🇦
hi Bill, i remember when these came out in the early 60s, good old Triang Railways !
Superb job, 👍
Thanks again Bill. Keep saving trains.
Amazing repair for such a small model.
I've worked on a couple of these.The back bearing is a bit basic and I found some light grease helped. The other issue was that the springs that hold the brushes in tension might need their angles changed slightly to better bed the brushes on to the commutator. Possibly the plastic that holds the brushes was enlarged or maybe slightly distorted due to heat in the past. As you note, amazing for their time. I have mine on radio control now but with the smoke still from the track power.
Excellent work bill thankyou for the video
Great work Bill, such a tiny motor !!!
Just subscribed, been recommended your page by a fellow youtuber so i can learn how to maintain/repair my locos, thank you
Great job Bill 😊
No firm ever made Brandreth's 'Cycloped', the wagon with a moving belt operated by a horse upon't. (A popular but against-the-rules entry at the Rainhill Trials).
Hi Bill i loved this video - awesome restore. I have a Tri-ang R 54 and am curious as to what is the motor used in it? I am missing the small insulated board from the top and don’t know how to look for it online… i know its a completely unrelated question but any input would be greatly appreciated- thanks
Rocket Science from OO Bill tip top work!
Hi Bill I have 48rockets all working I've found the back to back is important to set to .565in hope is helpful regards ian
Fitting metal wheels and pickups to the tender would probably work wonders with the running. Similarly with the coaches to reduce rolling resistance, although both would reduce the model's authenticity.
It's been 40 years since I last did a motor rewind, and the motor was a lot larger than that little thing. 😂😂
Quite like these wee little models, I'd love to have ome with the smoke unit as I have a tiny first radius layiut so this would be perfect, and also I'm just a sucker for smoke units
Hi Bill ,, I got 1 of these little things given to me as a non runner that was thrown in with a job lot of trains that i had bought but its a Bachmann type with 3 carriages from memory and boy what a nightmare of a little thing to muck with. I did eventually get it going but it didnt stay going for long so i just boxed it for later on when I have more patience.
Also hows the new layout going ?
Cheers from John in Australia.
Just wondering if you would be able to fix my dads class 43 that he’s had for a while it gets power to the motor but it doesn’t run. Any suggestions?
Essentially you have one of two problems: mechanical (bearings etc binding due to lack of lubrication or physical obstruction), or electrical (lack of continuity due to dirt or breakage). Inspection and testing should reveal the cause, which could be:
- Check whether it works with the plastic gears removed. If it does, could be mechanical problem with wheels/axles.
- Dirty commutator. (Clean/lube motor a la OOBill!)
- Dry motor bearings (ditto).
- Worn out or missing brush/es or brush springs. (")
- Then the difficult to spot one... Certain Ringfield motors have the brush retainers held on with screws. These may be different lengths, in which case the longer one provides an electrical connection between the brush and the chassis, the other doesn't. Get them the wrong way round and it won't work!
- Damaged armature windings -- check continuity/resistance between the commutator segments -- check each with its neighbour: assuming you have continuity, all 3 (or 5) should have similar resistance (same order of magnitude).
- Or something else, but that's all I can think of immediately!
@@PeterJewell2 Cheers mate.👍🏼
Wonderful.... I have one of the later re-issue of the Rocket... Not sure if it still runs or not.... Far too tiny for me to try and faff around with. And I can't solder to save my life!
where can one pick up a bearing remover from
I'd be very interested to watch a video on rewinding an armiture Bill if you wanted to make one.
I've just watched @MrSnooze rewind a Tri-ang armature on his UA-cam Channel, it seemed to work well when finished
Just a thought but would an N gauge motor fit?
It might. If I had one of these I'd be tempted to try replacing the motor and fitting metal wheels and pickups to the tender. They are quite valuable though so I think there is a tendency to leave them alone.
good vid thanks lee
In real life the Claytons broke down more than the Rocket lol