Don’t know what ya have planned for fuel rail but radium gives them away for free. Just because they love rotary and there are very few 4 rotor builds. Also full function engineering mounts may help they have some adjustability. I run them myself.
How is the cooling sytem gonna cope with the oem routing for a 2 rotor and not overheat the rear rotors, limit the power? In a recent video Logan shows coolant entering the center of the motor but with a modified billet plate.
From what I've seen on piston engines, ID2000s usually sacrifice idle quality even on E85. I would start with ID1000, or even smaller if you're able to add secondary injectors. On a non-turbo car you can crank the base fuel pressure a bit higher than a turbo car, the data I've seen suggests ID1000 will flow about 25% more fuel at 60psi base pressure than at 40psi base pressure. For a really out-of-the-box alternator relocation, it might be possible to do something with a large 16V battery and rear-mounted alternator that gets driven by a pulley on the driveshaft. ua-cam.com/video/090KPr3wSaI/v-deo.html
Perfect time for an upload. We’re excited for this “street” example of a 4 rotor and love the way you go about your work. Rad breakfast with RAD potential. Let’s go.
When you're finished, be very careful with the rev limit on that engine as a stock 13brew oil pump is what Mazda used on the larger 20b. With 20b having 50% more displacement, that 13b oil pump starts to lose volume at 8,500 rpms on a 20b. This was never an issue since the 20b from the factory had a torque converter and was rpm limited due to the auto transmission. Using an FD pump on a 100% larger 4 rotor will lower your oil volume even more so definetly don't rely on tha factory oil pressure gauge to see when your pressure starts to drop in the upper rpms so your can safety set that engines redline.
Yea. Id honestly like to have multiple places to monitor oil pressure. Engine inlet at the rear iron, and also front iron at the turbo feed port. Rpm will stay under 8k for sure.
Having access to somebody who has done it before, sure is going to help you. For me I think I would look at a front engine mount to support those very rear located mounts, it looks like the existing radiator mounts are a possibility to make that happen, after you move the radiator mounts forward. Have a great day 😊
Good stuff brother. I am enjoying watching this one! It would be cool to fab a front support to take some stress from those rear mounts. Has anyone done it using an early front cover?
I may see about adding a brace to the oil pan mounting surface for some additional support. it will need to have bushings though. Street car, I am refraining from any solid mounts. the RADX7 is all solid and its noisy and vibratey to really "street" drive
You can run and EPowerSteering kit to eliminate the pump. Its a motor that bolts inline with the column under the dash roughly above where your shins are. Kit comes with a controller knob that lets you dial assist from 0-100%. I personally run it at 20ish since it gives me the feel I want and allows me to input an appropriate amount of effort during performance driving. I'm not the person to tell you of all people how to set up this build, but consider this option to make packaging in the engine bay easier. Its definitely better than having parts hanging out over the exhaust.
You may want to talk to Justin at The Fabrication Series UA-cam channel. He did the subframe mods to put a 4 rotor in a FD. I always thought it was really weird that the REW engine mounts were at the very back of the engine. That just seems like too much weight in front just hanging with a 4 rotor.
Stock FD clutch?? Clutches are limited to torque, not HP. 'But the rear tires will break traction first' Not if you're doing 50, down shift and punch. With all those rotors, maybe you should go experimental. The Mazda Iconic SP will be running a sublimation system, if their claim of 1200mi range is true. While no one has caught on, from what I've seen, the engine assembly looks like a 20b. Yet the term 'two rotor engine' would be accurate, as the center rotor will be used to create a vacuum and charge the outside rotors. The center rotor will not have a compression relief valley on the faces. Each half of the housing will feed a rotor, ie exhaust through the 'iron' into the adjacent rotor housing's intake peripheral port. Do some simple research into model rocketry fuels. The AP oxidizer will be bound by a Silicon. Si bonding w/ N2 yields 40x the energy of H2O. C and O2 is an endothermic reaction. The material has to be heated as well, hence the reason F1 engines are preheated. No, it has nothing to do w/ tolerances, nor are they so special as to get 60% efficiency. PS the byproduct is the same material used to make grey grinding wheels. Pistons can only handle it diluted and short term, yet rotaries can digest this sand with minor wear. In fact, pre-ignition, the Si should help lubricate.
Don’t know what ya have planned for fuel rail but radium gives them away for free. Just because they love rotary and there are very few 4 rotor builds. Also full function engineering mounts may help they have some adjustability. I run them myself.
Radium rail has odd port selection. Only works if you block off some of the ports in the engine block.
Rad industries
How is the cooling sytem gonna cope with the oem routing for a 2 rotor and not overheat the rear rotors, limit the power? In a recent video Logan shows coolant entering the center of the motor but with a modified billet plate.
From what I've seen on piston engines, ID2000s usually sacrifice idle quality even on E85. I would start with ID1000, or even smaller if you're able to add secondary injectors. On a non-turbo car you can crank the base fuel pressure a bit higher than a turbo car, the data I've seen suggests ID1000 will flow about 25% more fuel at 60psi base pressure than at 40psi base pressure.
For a really out-of-the-box alternator relocation, it might be possible to do something with a large 16V battery and rear-mounted alternator that gets driven by a pulley on the driveshaft. ua-cam.com/video/090KPr3wSaI/v-deo.html
Perfect time for an upload. We’re excited for this “street” example of a 4 rotor and love the way you go about your work.
Rad breakfast with RAD potential. Let’s go.
Don’t cut the subframe. Notch the sump
Well, at least it fits. 😉👍🏻
Gonna be very interesting to see how everything bolts up. Uncharted territory indeed.
Merry Christmas 🎄🎁😎
When you're finished, be very careful with the rev limit on that engine as a stock 13brew oil pump is what Mazda used on the larger 20b. With 20b having 50% more displacement, that 13b oil pump starts to lose volume at 8,500 rpms on a 20b. This was never an issue since the 20b from the factory had a torque converter and was rpm limited due to the auto transmission. Using an FD pump on a 100% larger 4 rotor will lower your oil volume even more so definetly don't rely on tha factory oil pressure gauge to see when your pressure starts to drop in the upper rpms so your can safety set that engines redline.
Yea. Id honestly like to have multiple places to monitor oil pressure. Engine inlet at the rear iron, and also front iron at the turbo feed port. Rpm will stay under 8k for sure.
Having access to somebody who has done it before, sure is going to help you. For me I think I would look at a front engine mount to support those very rear located mounts, it looks like the existing radiator mounts are a possibility to make that happen, after you move the radiator mounts forward. Have a great day 😊
Good stuff brother. I am enjoying watching this one! It would be cool to fab a front support to take some stress from those rear mounts. Has anyone done it using an early front cover?
I may see about adding a brace to the oil pan mounting surface for some additional support. it will need to have bushings though. Street car, I am refraining from any solid mounts. the RADX7 is all solid and its noisy and vibratey to really "street" drive
glad you don't have to play musical chairs with the cars anymore to work on a car in the garage
Hearing you think it through is far more valuable & entertaining than …. Boom… it’s in & running. Thanks & Happy Holidays
Looking GOOD God speed rad potential!
You can run and EPowerSteering kit to eliminate the pump. Its a motor that bolts inline with the column under the dash roughly above where your shins are. Kit comes with a controller knob that lets you dial assist from 0-100%. I personally run it at 20ish since it gives me the feel I want and allows me to input an appropriate amount of effort during performance driving. I'm not the person to tell you of all people how to set up this build, but consider this option to make packaging in the engine bay easier. Its definitely better than having parts hanging out over the exhaust.
That sounds interesting, how long have you been using the electric power steering kit? Is the extra drain on the alternator noticeable?
You may want to talk to Justin at The Fabrication Series UA-cam channel. He did the subframe mods to put a 4 rotor in a FD.
I always thought it was really weird that the REW engine mounts were at the very back of the engine. That just seems like too much weight in front just hanging with a 4 rotor.
Stock FD clutch?? Clutches are limited to torque, not HP.
'But the rear tires will break traction first'
Not if you're doing 50, down shift and punch.
With all those rotors, maybe you should go experimental. The Mazda Iconic SP will be running a sublimation system, if their claim of 1200mi range is true.
While no one has caught on, from what I've seen, the engine assembly looks like a 20b. Yet the term 'two rotor engine' would be accurate, as the center rotor will be used to create a vacuum and charge the outside rotors. The center rotor will not have a compression relief valley on the faces. Each half of the housing will feed a rotor, ie exhaust through the 'iron' into the adjacent rotor housing's intake peripheral port.
Do some simple research into model rocketry fuels. The AP oxidizer will be bound by a Silicon. Si bonding w/ N2 yields 40x the energy of H2O. C and O2 is an endothermic reaction. The material has to be heated as well, hence the reason F1 engines are preheated. No, it has nothing to do w/ tolerances, nor are they so special as to get 60% efficiency.
PS the byproduct is the same material used to make grey grinding wheels. Pistons can only handle it diluted and short term, yet rotaries can digest this sand with minor wear. In fact, pre-ignition, the Si should help lubricate.
I like this type of Christmas
I don't know anything but I open my mouth anyway.
How about factory accessory mounts and panel bond a 4 rotor bump to the hood?
Rubber engine mounts FTW! Electric water pump might be the trick.
Love your videos man! I have yet to rebuild an egine but i have a used 13b rew that i want to take apart
Chuck 2 x webber Carbis on it !!!!
No omp? Man super exciting! Love the shop space like 8x the size? You quit your other job? Congratulations on your accomplishments
Fuck omp
And that’s why rotary is the best !
Bypass all the crap contact pac performance australia get a billet engine and go to the top of the american heap of rotary wanna haves😅
Maybe a billet 3 rotor
I hope in the future you'll have 4 rotor for experiment like rob Dham. Push it to the limit.
3 rotor :)
@@RADPotential That also a good Idea.