A spark plugs does fire before the piston reaches the very top of the stroke. Hence ignition timing/ anywhere from 3-10 degrees before top dead center. TDC. The momentum of the crank carries the piston over the top allowing the fuel to all be used during ignition explosion. Gas does not go bam in the cylinder but booooooom. Slow burning, not instant.
Greetings...Jerry Hubbard..…...Thanks for watching...…..What you said, is a good description, as to, how, the spark plug's "spark", is timed, as well as, how the fuel (gasoline) burns, as opposed to, shall we say, just exploding...……..Now then, here's how I look at it, along with, an example or two...…...Here's, what an older, mid 1970's, (smog) carburetor equipped, V-8 engine's ignition timing might look like...…….5 degrees BTDC (Before Top Dead Center), initial (base) ignition timing, while at idle speed....then...about 35 degrees BTDC, at about 3500 RPM's there-abouts (that be, the 5 degrees, of initial/base timing, plus, 30 degrees, from the mechanical metal weights, when they are slung out as far as they will go), while doing a full throttle acceleration, that places a heavy load on the engine...then...while just cruising along, at about 55 MPH/Miles Per Hour, then, oh, let's say that, the engine's RPM's, are at, about 2500 RPM's (having, no overdrive transmission), then, it might be...???...about, 25 degrees BTDC (that be, 5 degrees initial/base timing, plus, 20 degrees of advance, from the metal mechanical weights), then, add on another 15 degrees of advance, from the vacuum advance unit (canister), because of, quite a bit of engine vacuum, under this particular operating condition, which will activate that vacuum advance unit, to its maximum amount (15 degrees), and, when all added up, it equals...5...plus...20...plus...15...degrees...which equals...40 degrees...of, ignition timing advance (BTDC), while just cruising along, while having the gas pedal, only down, just a bit, to maintain speed, while travelling, on a level road...…….Under the right conditions (as in, very light load, on the engine), and, the engine RPM's, being in the right range, then, the ignition timing advance, might go, as high as, oh, about 52 degrees BTDC there-abouts, from what I recall...……..So yeah, the engine's crankshaft "mark", having a timing light flashing on it, might be showing, that, the spark plug "sparks", as much as, about 52 degrees BTDC, because of, that lean, air/fuel ratio (mixture), that is usually at, about 14.7 to 1 A/F ratio (by today's standards), that takes, a lot longer to burn (both, in crankshaft degrees, as well as, time-wise, which will probably be, measured in milli-seconds/thousandths of one second), as opposed to, a richer A/F ratio, of about 12.5 to 1 (and using, 100% gasoline, that, does "not" have, any ethanol/alcohol in it, what-so-ever...!!!), which will burn, much more quickly, in the engine's cylinder, which is the A/F ratio, that is reasonably safe to use, while going WOT/Wide Open Throttle...…….As far as I might know, then, the "peak" (highest) combustion pressure, that occurs in the engine's cylinder, will probably be at, about, 15 degrees ATDC/"After"" Top Dead Center, there-abouts (of the crankshaft), and, if...???...this "peak" cylinder pressure (I like to call this, the "target", by the way), can happen, under all engine loads, and engine RPM's, then, the engine, will probably end up, having the most horsepower (that it's capable of), as well as, good fuel economy too, well, as long as, Ya can keep Ur Big foot, from mashing down on the gas pedal, that is...!!!...lol...……..Be it, being measured in crankshaft degrees, or, in milli-seconds (of time), the fuel (gasoline), will burn, either faster or slower, due to, how rich, or, how lean, the Air/Fuel ratio (mixture) happens to be, as well as, what that particular engine's, shall we say, personality actually is, as in, how good or bad, it can inhale (the air/fuel mixture), and, exhale (expel, the burned exhaust gas), out of the engine's cylinder head/s, oh and, exhaust system too...……..Not enough, ignition timing advance, will usually, just waste gasoline, and maybe, coat the spark plugs, with black carbon, if really bad...……..Too much, ignition timing advance, as well as, too lean, of an air/fuel ratio (mixture), has been known, to "destroy" an engine, especially when, going Pedal-to-the-Metal/Wide Open Throttle...!!!....and.....till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
thanks for your reply. You are right on there. Today's computers are so far advanced than the old school. I am lost when you have to plug up the engine to make it run. Old school here
Greetings, my Friend from the United Kingdom....and, thanks kindly for your very kind comments....I was thinking a while back, what might be the best way to show people what I have learned, not only by myself, but, by listening to, and observing things that I found interesting, from other people....I was very fortunate to have some great mentors when I was growing up, and, what you see and hear from me, is partly due to them, and, I'm just being myself....Take care, and have a nice day Brian...
The material surrounding the anode is ceramic, which is 99% of the time Alumina Oxide. The The material surrounding the anode is a ceramic most commonly made of Alumina Oxide, with the sole exception of Lodge and Golden Lodge spark plugs which use Sintox (sintered aluminium oxide) which is Raspberry coloured. The quantity of ceramic surrounding the anode determines the heat range and influences the temperature of the combustion chamber when the engine is running. The ceramic retains heat between ignition moments in order to cause the fresh fuel air mixture to vapourise and become volatile at TDC creating optimal ignition conditions. Without a ceramic retaining heat ignition would become problematic. Install a plug that is rated too cold and the engine will struggle to start, take longer to warm up and have issues with idling. Too hot a rated plug and the engine will overheat when underload. If the ceramic surrounding the anode is damaged or partially missing, this will drop the plug's temperature rating to colder than it is labelled. If the ceramic is contaminated in soot or oil this will also drop the plug's temperature rating causing problems when starting a cold engine. The anode materials most commonly used are soft iron, copper and iridium. An engine's power delivery character can be totally different across different brands of heat range equivalent plugs as exact equivalency is not actually feasible. Some manufacturers cover several rival brand plugs with one plug (Lodge HN3 = Champion L80, L81, L82 = NGK B7HS, B8HS, B9HS). Contrary to popular mythology, spark plugs don't come "Ready gapped" for your particular engine. For instance the Suzuki GT380 / GT550 / GT750 requires a 0.02" wider gap setting on the centre cylinder than the other two cylinders. Imagine if this myth was true, one heat rate type of spark plug would come in several different gap settings for various makes of cars and motorcycles. We'd see plug boxes labelled, "NGK B7HS pre-gapped 0.26" for centre cylinder only Suzuki GT380 / GT550 / GT750" and "NGK B7HS pre-gapped 0.24" for left & right cylinders only Suzuki GT380 / GT550 / GT750" and "NGK B7HS pre-gapped 0.28* for all Jawa CZ engines" That's why plugs being pre-gapped ideally for a particular engine that you happen to have is pure BS. A particular spark plug's gap setting recommended by an engine's manufacturer will vary dependant on the cylinder volume, compression ratio and ignition HT power supplied. That's why different brand engines have different recommended gap settings for the same spark plug.
Greetings...Andy Reid...…….Thanks for watching...…….That, sure was, quite the write up alright...……..Even the way in which Ya operate an engine, can have quite the affect too, as in, go easy on the throttle, for better mileage, and engine longevity, as opposed to, giving the engine, as much throttle as possible, that, road conditions will allow, at any given time, and/or, how much Ya can afford, for speeding tickets as well...lol...…….Use-tah be, that, while mostly doing city (slow) driving, Ya could go up (hotter), by a heat range or two, as opposed to, mostly doing highway/freeway driving, where, Ya might go down (colder), in heat range, by a heat range or two (well probably, as far as, the good ole Champion, spark plug heat range is concerned, that is)......….A spark plug, is really only, one part of the puzzle, so to speak...…...Ethanol (alcohol), in the gasoline's blend, can sometimes, cause an older engine, that had a carburetor on it, that was originally calibrated for (air/fuel ratio...mixture-wise) when it was burning 100% (non-Ethanol) gasoline, to now run, much "leaner", of an air/fuel ratio (mixture), because of, the alcohol (ethanol), in today's gasoline blend, usually needing, a larger size of fuel jet, or, in some cases, a needle, and/or, needle jet change, in some cases...…….An air/fuel ratio gauge, that reads out in real time, is about the best, and safest way to go, providing that, 100% (non ethanol) gasoline is being used...…….Ignition timing, is a large part, of how good, an engine is capable of performing, along with, that side benefit, of, good fuel economy too...…….Good ole CDI ignition systems, that work very well, with the correct spark plug & gap...…...If I recall correctly, there was probably a guy on UA-cam, that set, each spark plug "gap" size differently, for each, of the engine's cylinders...interesting that...…….My favorite spark plug heat range numbering system, was on the older Champion spark plugs, as in, something like...N-12-Y...the 12, was the heat range, and the higher the number, the hotter the heat range got (just like the dial, on your stove's oven), and, there wasn't such a Large jump, in heat range, when going up or down, by only one number, where-as, some other spark plug brands, might use, only one designation, that covers about, oh, maybe three Champion, heat range numbers, all by itself (not something, that I really care for, at all)……….If you were indicating, the spark plug's, electrode Gap size, in..."thousandths"...of an..."inch"...then, make sure, to put that decimal point, in the correct place, as in, twenty-four thousandths of an inch, should look like this .024" (to me, the " is the symbol, for, thousandths of an inch), because, if Ya leave that zero out, then .24" equals..."Two Hundred and Four-ty", thousandths of an inch...!!!...Wowsers…!!!...lol...(oh, and, to be politically correct, then, I should-ah left that "and" out, that was just before, that "Four-ty" word...lol)……….I use-tah use, those NGK, platinum, fine wire electrode, equipped spark plugs, in some air cooled 250-cc dirt bikes, way back when, and always, had to keep in mind, that, with, NGK spark plugs, the..."Lower" the number...the "Hotter" the Heat Range"...!!! (kinda backwards, if Ya ask me...lol), and, the only numbers that I used/saw, were...8...9...and...10...(car engine, would probably be around, a number 5, as I recall)………..For best performance and fuel economy, for just about any gasoline burnin' engine, then, it would probably be...the correct gasoline & octane rating, along with, the best/optimum air/fuel ratio, for all engine operating conditions (loads & rpm's)...and also, the best/optimum, ignition timing advance curve, for all engine operating conditions, as well (loads and rpm's)………..So, if Ya don't get, all of the parts, of the above, shall we say, "puzzle pieces", reasonably close, to, what they should be, then, you, I, and others as well, probably won't be getting, the full potential, that, the engine in question, is capable of outputting...….and.....till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Ray Carberry...……You're welcome, and thanks for the nice comment...……Hmmm.....let's see now...….If I were to use only words, to describe the heat range of a spark plug, then, here Ya go....….The spark plug manufacturer's heat range number, is usually based on, the temperature, that, the spark plug tries to maintain, while it's inside of, a running engine's combustion chamber, and it does this, by transferring, a certain amount of heat, into the engine's cylinder head, by its design, via, the screw-threads, and the tapered seat, on one type of spark plug, while the older type, would be, the screw-threads, as well as, the flat surface, that has, that steel crush washer on it, that gets squished thinner, as it's being tightened, into, the cylinder head's screw-threads, as I recall...…….Thanks again, and...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
A doubt recently got a "Brisk LGS" spark plug (OEM was NGK), i had installed (DImyself it was wrist tight 🙂) in cold start Moto started, but after it reached operating temps and switched off (10-20mins) then tried to start it again (thumb start) there is no response for about 3-5 seconds. I then removed the (brisk spark plug since that was the part that was replaced) and torqued it to as per packaging 12lbs-ft/ 17Nmm, I didn't get the trouble again. is it because of spark plug (brisk) or is it low tolorence of torq value being below spec? would love your opinion on this please
Ford actually updated early 4.6L V8's to the longer thread design sparkplugs. The early 4.6L engines were having a lot of sparkplug thread issues, when it was time ti replace the plugs the treads would end up being pulled out of the heads... My two cent's...
Greetings...Jose Cuevas...….Thanks for watching...….Was that the type of cylinder head, that had those, quite long spark plugs, that would sometimes break in two pieces, when, trying to remove them…??? (and, if so, then, that, was some pretty bad designing/engineering, I be thinkin'...lol)..……..I recall seeing, that, there was an "extraction" tool/kit, that was designed to remove, the broken part of the spark plug, from the cylinder head, and hopefully, the cylinder head's screw-threads, and, if applicable, the rest of that bore (hole), would not be damaged too much, so it was usable again (keeping fingers crossed, is a good thing to practise, under these conditions...lol, for me, but not so much, for the owner, of such a vehicle)………..I never did like aluminum heads, from a durability/long life perspective, but, for racing, and keeping a vehicle's weight down, then, there Ya have it...…..and...….till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
When making modifications like headers, compression ratio changes, and even displacement - do you always go higher than stock heat range, or does it depend on the type and how would you address each of those mods? Thanks for the video
Greetings...Micheal Wells...……You're welcome, and, thanks for watching...…..Usually, whenever an engine is modified, for a performance increase, then, the spark plug's heat range, most times, will usually, be going, to a "colder" heat range (and not a "hotter" heat range, as you had mentioned)……...Gotta be very careful, with some of the different, spark plug manufacturer's, heat range numbers, as in, let's compare an older/cheaper, Champion spark plug's heat range number, with an older/cheaper, NGK spark plug's heat range number...…….The Champion, spark plug's heat range number, gets "higher", as, its heat range gets "hotter"...and...the NGK's heat range number, gets "smaller", as its heat range gets "hotter"...!!!...so, always make sure, that, you know, how each spark plug manufacturer, number (and/or, letter) codes, its spark plug's, heat ranges, or, Ya might end up with, some engine damage...…….When it comes to, just about any engine, I tend to think in terms of, a given engine, shall we say, as, having its own (individual) "personality" (kinda like, us humans do...lol)……….I still recall, by, just installing, something like, a set of long tube exhaust "headers", on, an older carbureted (not fuel injected) V-8 engine, that, the air/fuel ratio, got "leaner", because of, the "scavenging" effect, that those headers were know for (as in, the exhaust gas pulses, that are inside of, the header's tubes, will actually, pull the exhaust gas, away from/out of, the cylinder head's, exhaust ports)……….Gasoline, with about 10% ethanol (alcohol), in its blend, will also cause a carbureted engine, to run, on a leaner, air/fuel ratio as well (I had to re-jet the carburetor, quite a bit richer, by having headers, and, burning 10% ethanol gasoline as well)……...If it's a fuel injected engine, that you are dealing with, then, the vehicle's on board computer, will have to be re-programmed (if possible), or, an after-market, programmable, on-board computer, will probably be needed, especially so, if you were to bolt on, something like, a "turbo-charger", or, "super-charger"...…….The good ole rule-of-thumb, would be, to, make the spark plug's "gap" (that's, between the two electrodes) "smaller", when-ever, the engine's, cylinder pressure "increases"...……..It's a lot easier, to make a spark plug, go "spark", in open air/atmosphere, and, a heck a lot more difficult, it will be getting, for it to go "spark", as the engine's cylinder pressure increases...…….If, and when-ever, considering, any engine modifications at all, then always, "plan-ahead", and, do lots of studying/research, because, if Ya don't do it right, the engine's performance, might not be as good as expected, and, engine damage is also possible...…….Just about every modification made, will have some affect, on how an engine behaves/performs...…...Certain modifications, might be tailored for, more horsepower, at higher engine RPM's, and, Ya might lose some low rpm torque at the very same time, possibly...…….The engine itself, has to be mechanically strong enough, for the amount of, torque/horsepower increase, or, something, is usually, gonna, "self-destruct"...!!!...……In closing, look for some websites, that have a "Forum" on it, that is focused on, your..."exact"...year and make, of vehicle & engine, as, some of the people, on those specific, automotive forums, will probably be able to tell you, what modifications, and, the affect that they had, on their engine's performance, oh, and, if and when-ever, Ya decide to go ahead, and make a modification or two, be sure to, have Lot-sa-Money, in Ur bank account, for your chosen modifications (and maybe, for some, shine-ee "bling" too...!!!...lol).........Good luck, and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...arrchee88.............You're welcome, and, Thanks for watching..............If, and when-ever, the time comes, that Your Engine is in need of a New set of Spark Plugs, then, by replacing those old/used spark plugs, with the Same/Original Spark Plugs, that Factory installed in the Engine, when it was brand new, would probably be the safest and best bet, just in case, something goes wrong................If a spark plug's Heat Range, is too Cold (running at less than, oh, about 1,000 Degrees Fahrenheit, there-abouts), then, the Deposits, would probably not burn off enough, and will probably start building up on the spark plug, and usually, probably won't harm the engine, but, some misfiring, still might occur.............If the spark plugs, happen to have, a Higher than wanted Heat Range (too Hot), then, the spark plugs would probably look nice-n-clean, but, on a bad day, engine Damage, might be the result...!!!...so, make sure, that, the spark plug's Heat Range, as well as, its physical dimensions, are the Same, as the Factory Originals, especially so, where the part of the spark plug, goes into the Cylinder Head, in order to avoid any, not wanted, and expensive engine Damage........and........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Nikhil BN............Thanks for watching............Only 2 heat ranges You say...???...........Seems kinda strange alright...........Perhaps, that type of spark plug is self adjusting maybe...???.............I do recall, doing some spark plug cross-referencing, not so long ago, and I found that, some spark plug manufacturers had one heat range, that would, shall we say, cover another spark plug manufacturer's spark plug, that had 2 or 3 different heat ranges, that were in sequence/close to each other............The older Champion spark plug numbering system is the one that I like the most, as compared to most of the other numbering systems............The older Champions, would have a higher number for a hotter plug, where-as, some spark plug manufacturers, get hotter, when the number gets smaller, so, pay close attention to that.............Lets take a Champion N-12-Y for example............12 is the heat range, and I had a car that wasn't being driven at the time, and I broke one of the spark plugs upon removal..............I had a brand new Champion N-14-Y spark plug in a drawer, that was only 2 heat ranges hotter than that 12 was, so I installed it............Wowsers...!!!...just at idle speed mostly, cuz the car wasn't being driven at the time, that 14 heat range, was sure hotter, just by looking at it, as it didn't have the amount of deposits on it, like the 12 heat range did...!!!............I never did run the 14 heat range on the street for that engine, cuz, it would probably be too hot of a heat range, especially at higher speeds, and in went a set of 12 heat range spark plugs............Safest thing to do with a factory stock engine, is to just use the Vehicle Manufacturer's recommended spark plug, so as to avoid any unwanted problems......and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hi Nikhil. Pulstar typically makes very expensive spark plugs selling the concept of more performance. If you haven't taken you NA engine to being a super charger and/or turbo charger, then it isn't for you.
Hello i have this motorcycle and its required a sparkplug code NGK C8E and my mech replace it with a cpr6 so it means he replace it with hotter sparkplug is it bad for my engine?
Greetings...Lucy Abulencia.........Thanks for watching.........Yes, a spark plug, that has a "hotter" heat range, than, a park plug, that has the "correct" heat range, for your exact engine, can sometimes, cause "damage", to your engine...!!!.........If your engine is an original, factory/stock engine, that "does not", have any modifications done to it, then, the best, and safest thing to do, would be to, install the..."exact/same"...spark plug, that was installed by the factory/manufacturer, when your engine was brand new.........If you have the owners manual, for your motorcycle, then, you might find, the "correct" spark plug code, in there somewhere.........The heat range, for NGK spark plugs, will probably get "hotter", as, the number gets "smaller" (it's opposite, with something like, the older Champion spark plugs, just so Ya know).........Going from a heat range of..."8"..then, going to a "hotter" heat range of..."6"...for an NGK, brand of spark plug, is quite an..."increase"...in the heat range, alright........Even, if "only" going "1" heat range hotter, then, that, can also make, quite a bit of difference as well........By using, too..."hot"...of a heat range, the spark plug, will remain at, a higher than wanted, operating temperature, which, might ignite the air/fuel mixture, too early, as the piston is rising up in the cylinder, while the piston, is also compressing, that very same, air/fuel mixture, and this, sometimes, causing, engine damage, problem, usually goes by the name of..."Pre-ignition" (as in, igniting, the air/fuel mixture..."before"...the spark plug, actually goes "spark"...!!!).........So then, If you want to keep your engine "safe", and also, last, a long, long time, then, always be sure to, use the "correct" spark plug, for that "exact" engine, and......till next time......Be Safe.....take care, and have a good one.
I was about to buy denso iridium TT IEXH20TT and then found they have another version IEXH20 *E* TT :/ The difference is the reach which is 2mm, the first one is 26.50mm and the second one is 28.50! Does that 2mm reach matter to my 60k miles engine? I am changing it because ngks are acting weird.
Greetings...eth3rl0rds...……..Thanks for watching...……..Well, in order prevent, having any possible, unwanted engine damage..."never-ever"...install a spark plug, that is physically..."longer"...than, the spark plug, that the vehicle manufacturer installed in that engine, when the engine was brand new...!!! (that, longer spark plug, might...???...come in contact, with the top of the piston, and/or, make contact, with one of the valves), and, Ya sure don't want to take that chance, and damage your engine, right...???....and also, it'll probably be very expensive to fix, if it's possible to do so, that is...……...(in my opinion)...Your..."Safest"...spark plug choice, for your "exact" engine (if the engine, is, factory "stock/no modifications"), would be, to use, and install, the..."Exact/Same"...spark plugs, that the vehicle manufacturer, installed in the engine, when it was brand new...……..Sure, you might consider using a spark plug, "cross-reference" chart, and, the other type of spark plug, might work ok, or maybe, not work so good...???...……..The spark plug's physical "length" (especially so, the distance measured from, where the spark plug actually makes contact with the cylinder head, to the outside edge, of the spark plug's outer electrode, so as to, avoid having the spark plug's electrode end, making any contact at all, with the piston top, or valves), just like, I had already mentioned...……...The "heat range" of the spark plug, has to be correct too, as in, too "cold", then, spark plug fouling might occur, and cause the engine to misfire...……...If the "heat range" is too "hot", then sometimes, "severe engine damage", can be the result...!!!...……..Also, make sure, that, the spark plug's "gap" (gap = the clearance/air gap, that's between the two electrodes), is, the same as, what the vehicle manufacturer "specifies", for your "exact" engine (please note, that, some spark plug designs, "are-not", gap-able/set-able, so as to avoid, not to damage, that particular type of spark plug...!!!)..........So then, if Ya try, to save a bit of money, by purchasing another type of spark plug, then, will the risk of expensive engine damage, be worth the risk...???...…...Well, it's all up to you, as to, what path you'll choose...……..Good luck, and...…..till next time...…..Be Safe, take care and have a good one.
@@RockysRoadshow Thank you for the detailed info and yes, engine damage is something REALLY expensive to repair or sometimes not worth it at all and didn't wanna go through that phase because of silly mistake and that is why I waited. I got the Denso TT and found it is indeed 2mm longer but that size is compensated with the washer. Inside the chamber, the length is same and the NGK heat was 7 but denso is 20 which is the same falls right between hot and cold... NGK was giving me bit knocking at lower gear when accelerate but with denso, it's buttery smooth now!
So the higher the number or the lower number the colder the spark plug I have one spark plug rated at 20 and the other one Heat range 15 which and another 27 which one would be the colder plug. I need to run one step colder plugs. Thanks
Greetings...redbaron2448...........Thanks for watching............Be very careful, whenever changing the "heat range" of a spark plug, that is going to be different from, the factory installed, spark plug's heat range designation, especially so, if it happens to be, going to a "hotter" heat range, because, it can cause lots of engine "damage", if you get it wrong...!!!...but, then again, you did say, one step "colder", right.............Warning...!!!...some spark plug manufacturer's, heat ranges, get "hotter", when the number gets "smaller", while others, get "hotter", when the number gets larger, interesting huh..........Here are two examples for Ya..........Let's take a much older, N-12-Y Champion spark plug, and compare it to, an NGK-5 heat range spark plug, and also, which direction the number will go, when going to, a "hotter" heat range, shall we...........With the older Champion spark plugs, the heat range got "hotter", as the number got "larger"...where-as...with most of the NGK spark plugs, that, I have used in the past, had the heat range, getting "hotter", as the number got "smaller"...!!!...........If you want to see, a, shall we say, "side-by-side" comparison, then, do an internet search, for a spark plug..."cross reference"...chart (select "images", on your browser, after doing the word/printed search), that will show, quite a few, different spark plug manufacturer's heat ranges, and more information, "side-by-side", on the very same chart (impressive that, I must say)...........If Ya need any more help at all, just let me know, things like, the spark plug "manufacturer's name", and what kind of engine, etc., and.......till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoadshow. Great video by the way and thanks for the help. So the NGK Spark plugs say 1 step colder than factor, 2005 Mercedes e55 AMG , so how do I file a tax lien holder what number should I be looking for as in heat range a 20,15 ,10, or do i look higher 25,30,40. Some parts the higher the number the better other parts the lower number the better so I'm not really sure about spark plugs if the lower number is better with the higher number is better. Just like in my thermostat the lower number obviously is going to be the colder running temp for instance instead of a 185 degrees I'll be running 145 temp. Hope that makes sense. Thanks again
Greetings...redbaron2448.........You're welcome, and thanks for the nice comment.........Before you go, and start changing any parts on your car, that "are not" going to be the same, as the "factory original" (Mercedes) installed parts, then, it will probably be a very good idea, to study first, and ask other people, what parts, worked really good for them, for your exact same car, without causing any expensive damage...........Try to find a website on the internet, that has a "Forum" on it, for your "exact" same car and engine (supercharged engine?), and you will be able to ask, some of those very smart people, lots of questions, about whatever it is, that you want your car to be doing, that will be, any different from, how Mercedes set up your engine and car at the factory, when it was new...........You will have to find out, what the "exact" brand and type of spark plugs, that the Mercedes factory, installed in your engine, when it was brand new, and, if you want to use a "different" brand of spark plug, then you will have to use a spark plug "cross reference" chart, and/or, phone, or go to an automotive parts store, and the parts person, should be able to tell you, what the "standard" factory original (heat range) spark plug is, in some different "brands", as well as, hotter and colder heat ranges as well...........Now then, about using a very low temperature "thermostat" in your engine...........That 145 degree Fahrenheit thermostat temperature rating, is probably too "cold", and the engine will probably be wasting gasoline, while just cruising along on the highway, at not too fast of a speed..........Also, there will probably be a "coolant temperature sensor", in your engine, that will be telling the car's on-board computer, how hot (or cold) the engine "coolant" (anti-freeze and water mixture) is, and, if it stays at 145 degrees, then, the computer, might not go into, what is called "closed loop" operation, and fuel economy won't be very good, and your engine, might get full of, too many "carbon deposits"..........."Open Loop", on-board computer operation, usually happens, when the engine is cold, and just warming up, and also, when the gas pedal is pushed down quite far, like you are kinda racing, somewhat..........Make sure, that, your "cooling system" is in very good condition, with "coolant" that is not too old, because sometimes, the radiator gets "plugged" up with corrosion and other stuff, inside of all of those very small, flat shaped tubes, that can cause an engine to run too hot, or maybe over-heat too, because of the coolant, "not" being able to freely flow, through all of those small, flat shaped tubes..........If your radiator, has one or more electric fans, mounted on it, then, the fan/s, have to start running, when the programmed temperature is reached (might be around 200 degrees Fahrenheit , possibly), so, engine (coolant) "overheating", can also be caused by, one or more Fans, not running, when they are supposed to (especially important, while the car is at a stop, on a very hot day)............Also, "Never" open (remove) a radiator "Cap", when the engine's "Coolant" is "Hot", because, that very "Hot, and under Pressure" Coolant, can spray all over the place, and, can also, cause Serious "Burns"...!!!...and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Jose Cuevas...…...Thanks for watching...…….Well, that's something, that I've never heard of, very interesting...……..For the older, cheaper spark plugs, I'm now using NGK spark plugs, because, if Ya measure the ohms/resistance, of the "center electrode", on a new spark plug, then, the NGK's, are usually, no more than, about 5,000 ohms...……..Some other brands of spark plugs, are way too high in ohms/resistance, for my liking...……..Less resistance, usually means, that, more of that high voltage, that the ignition coil outputs, goes to your spark plug's electrode/s, which to me, will probably make for, a more intense spark, I be thinkin', but, everything else, in the ignition system's, high voltage secondary circuit, has to be in top shape as well, as in, spark plug "wires", and if applicable, distributor parts & pieces as well...….and......till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I've looked at 10 or 11 videos and your video is the best thank you
Hello from the UK! I really like your videos! No ego involved, just a genuine desire to help people. Well done mate! Brian
Hi Bricar, Rocky for whatever reason, replied to you on his UA-cam video, but not to you. I'd come back to see his great response to you. :)
Thanks I was stumped on the different heat ranges between the NKG's and the Champions.
A spark plugs does fire before the piston reaches the very top of the stroke. Hence ignition timing/ anywhere from 3-10 degrees before top dead center. TDC. The momentum of the crank carries the piston over the top allowing the fuel to all be used during ignition explosion. Gas does not go bam in the cylinder but booooooom. Slow burning, not instant.
Greetings...Jerry Hubbard..…...Thanks for watching...…..What you said, is a good description, as to, how, the spark plug's "spark", is timed, as well as, how the fuel (gasoline) burns, as opposed to, shall we say, just exploding...……..Now then, here's how I look at it, along with, an example or two...…...Here's, what an older, mid 1970's, (smog) carburetor equipped, V-8 engine's ignition timing might look like...…….5 degrees BTDC (Before Top Dead Center), initial (base) ignition timing, while at idle speed....then...about 35 degrees BTDC, at about 3500 RPM's there-abouts (that be, the 5 degrees, of initial/base timing, plus, 30 degrees, from the mechanical metal weights, when they are slung out as far as they will go), while doing a full throttle acceleration, that places a heavy load on the engine...then...while just cruising along, at about 55 MPH/Miles Per Hour, then, oh, let's say that, the engine's RPM's, are at, about 2500 RPM's (having, no overdrive transmission), then, it might be...???...about, 25 degrees BTDC (that be, 5 degrees initial/base timing, plus, 20 degrees of advance, from the metal mechanical weights), then, add on another 15 degrees of advance, from the vacuum advance unit (canister), because of, quite a bit of engine vacuum, under this particular operating condition, which will activate that vacuum advance unit, to its maximum amount (15 degrees), and, when all added up, it equals...5...plus...20...plus...15...degrees...which equals...40 degrees...of, ignition timing advance (BTDC), while just cruising along, while having the gas pedal, only down, just a bit, to maintain speed, while travelling, on a level road...…….Under the right conditions (as in, very light load, on the engine), and, the engine RPM's, being in the right range, then, the ignition timing advance, might go, as high as, oh, about 52 degrees BTDC there-abouts, from what I recall...……..So yeah, the engine's crankshaft "mark", having a timing light flashing on it, might be showing, that, the spark plug "sparks", as much as, about 52 degrees BTDC, because of, that lean, air/fuel ratio (mixture), that is usually at, about 14.7 to 1 A/F ratio (by today's standards), that takes, a lot longer to burn (both, in crankshaft degrees, as well as, time-wise, which will probably be, measured in milli-seconds/thousandths of one second), as opposed to, a richer A/F ratio, of about 12.5 to 1 (and using, 100% gasoline, that, does "not" have, any ethanol/alcohol in it, what-so-ever...!!!), which will burn, much more quickly, in the engine's cylinder, which is the A/F ratio, that is reasonably safe to use, while going WOT/Wide Open Throttle...…….As far as I might know, then, the "peak" (highest) combustion pressure, that occurs in the engine's cylinder, will probably be at, about, 15 degrees ATDC/"After"" Top Dead Center, there-abouts (of the crankshaft), and, if...???...this "peak" cylinder pressure (I like to call this, the "target", by the way), can happen, under all engine loads, and engine RPM's, then, the engine, will probably end up, having the most horsepower (that it's capable of), as well as, good fuel economy too, well, as long as, Ya can keep Ur Big foot, from mashing down on the gas pedal, that is...!!!...lol...……..Be it, being measured in crankshaft degrees, or, in milli-seconds (of time), the fuel (gasoline), will burn, either faster or slower, due to, how rich, or, how lean, the Air/Fuel ratio (mixture) happens to be, as well as, what that particular engine's, shall we say, personality actually is, as in, how good or bad, it can inhale (the air/fuel mixture), and, exhale (expel, the burned exhaust gas), out of the engine's cylinder head/s, oh and, exhaust system too...……..Not enough, ignition timing advance, will usually, just waste gasoline, and maybe, coat the spark plugs, with black carbon, if really bad...……..Too much, ignition timing advance, as well as, too lean, of an air/fuel ratio (mixture), has been known, to "destroy" an engine, especially when, going Pedal-to-the-Metal/Wide Open Throttle...!!!....and.....till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
thanks for your reply. You are right on there. Today's computers are so far advanced than the old school. I am lost when you have to plug up the engine to make it run. Old school here
Greetings, my Friend from the United Kingdom....and, thanks kindly for your very kind comments....I was thinking a while back, what might be the best way to show people what I have learned, not only by myself, but, by listening to, and observing things that I found interesting, from other people....I was very fortunate to have some great mentors when I was growing up, and, what you see and hear from me, is partly due to them, and, I'm just being myself....Take care, and have a nice day Brian...
The material surrounding the anode is ceramic, which is 99% of the time Alumina Oxide. The The material surrounding the anode is a ceramic most commonly made of Alumina Oxide, with the sole exception of Lodge and Golden Lodge spark plugs which use Sintox (sintered aluminium oxide) which is Raspberry coloured.
The quantity of ceramic surrounding the anode determines the heat range and influences the temperature of the combustion chamber when the engine is running. The ceramic retains heat between ignition moments in order to cause the fresh fuel air mixture to vapourise and become volatile at TDC creating optimal ignition conditions. Without a ceramic retaining heat ignition would become problematic.
Install a plug that is rated too cold and the engine will struggle to start, take longer to warm up and have issues with idling. Too hot a rated plug and the engine will overheat when underload.
If the ceramic surrounding the anode is damaged or partially missing, this will drop the plug's temperature rating to colder than it is labelled.
If the ceramic is contaminated in soot or oil this will also drop the plug's temperature rating causing problems when starting a cold engine.
The anode materials most commonly used are soft iron, copper and iridium.
An engine's power delivery character can be totally different across different brands of heat range equivalent plugs as exact equivalency is not actually feasible. Some manufacturers cover several rival brand plugs with one plug (Lodge HN3 = Champion L80, L81, L82 = NGK B7HS, B8HS, B9HS).
Contrary to popular mythology, spark plugs don't come "Ready gapped" for your particular engine. For instance the Suzuki GT380 / GT550 / GT750 requires a 0.02" wider gap setting on the centre cylinder than the other two cylinders. Imagine if this myth was true, one heat rate type of spark plug would come in several different gap settings for various makes of cars and motorcycles. We'd see plug boxes labelled, "NGK B7HS pre-gapped 0.26" for centre cylinder only Suzuki GT380 / GT550 / GT750" and "NGK B7HS pre-gapped 0.24" for left & right cylinders only Suzuki GT380 / GT550 / GT750" and "NGK B7HS pre-gapped 0.28* for all Jawa CZ engines"
That's why plugs being pre-gapped ideally for a particular engine that you happen to have is pure BS.
A particular spark plug's gap setting recommended by an engine's manufacturer will vary dependant on the cylinder volume, compression ratio and ignition HT power supplied. That's why different brand engines have different recommended gap settings for the same spark plug.
Greetings...Andy Reid...…….Thanks for watching...…….That, sure was, quite the write up alright...……..Even the way in which Ya operate an engine, can have quite the affect too, as in, go easy on the throttle, for better mileage, and engine longevity, as opposed to, giving the engine, as much throttle as possible, that, road conditions will allow, at any given time, and/or, how much Ya can afford, for speeding tickets as well...lol...…….Use-tah be, that, while mostly doing city (slow) driving, Ya could go up (hotter), by a heat range or two, as opposed to, mostly doing highway/freeway driving, where, Ya might go down (colder), in heat range, by a heat range or two (well probably, as far as, the good ole Champion, spark plug heat range is concerned, that is)......….A spark plug, is really only, one part of the puzzle, so to speak...…...Ethanol (alcohol), in the gasoline's blend, can sometimes, cause an older engine, that had a carburetor on it, that was originally calibrated for (air/fuel ratio...mixture-wise) when it was burning 100% (non-Ethanol) gasoline, to now run, much "leaner", of an air/fuel ratio (mixture), because of, the alcohol (ethanol), in today's gasoline blend, usually needing, a larger size of fuel jet, or, in some cases, a needle, and/or, needle jet change, in some cases...…….An air/fuel ratio gauge, that reads out in real time, is about the best, and safest way to go, providing that, 100% (non ethanol) gasoline is being used...…….Ignition timing, is a large part, of how good, an engine is capable of performing, along with, that side benefit, of, good fuel economy too...…….Good ole CDI ignition systems, that work very well, with the correct spark plug & gap...…...If I recall correctly, there was probably a guy on UA-cam, that set, each spark plug "gap" size differently, for each, of the engine's cylinders...interesting that...…….My favorite spark plug heat range numbering system, was on the older Champion spark plugs, as in, something like...N-12-Y...the 12, was the heat range, and the higher the number, the hotter the heat range got (just like the dial, on your stove's oven), and, there wasn't such a Large jump, in heat range, when going up or down, by only one number, where-as, some other spark plug brands, might use, only one designation, that covers about, oh, maybe three Champion, heat range numbers, all by itself (not something, that I really care for, at all)……….If you were indicating, the spark plug's, electrode Gap size, in..."thousandths"...of an..."inch"...then, make sure, to put that decimal point, in the correct place, as in, twenty-four thousandths of an inch, should look like this .024" (to me, the " is the symbol, for, thousandths of an inch), because, if Ya leave that zero out, then .24" equals..."Two Hundred and Four-ty", thousandths of an inch...!!!...Wowsers…!!!...lol...(oh, and, to be politically correct, then, I should-ah left that "and" out, that was just before, that "Four-ty" word...lol)……….I use-tah use, those NGK, platinum, fine wire electrode, equipped spark plugs, in some air cooled 250-cc dirt bikes, way back when, and always, had to keep in mind, that, with, NGK spark plugs, the..."Lower" the number...the "Hotter" the Heat Range"...!!! (kinda backwards, if Ya ask me...lol), and, the only numbers that I used/saw, were...8...9...and...10...(car engine, would probably be around, a number 5, as I recall)………..For best performance and fuel economy, for just about any gasoline burnin' engine, then, it would probably be...the correct gasoline & octane rating, along with, the best/optimum air/fuel ratio, for all engine operating conditions (loads & rpm's)...and also, the best/optimum, ignition timing advance curve, for all engine operating conditions, as well (loads and rpm's)………..So, if Ya don't get, all of the parts, of the above, shall we say, "puzzle pieces", reasonably close, to, what they should be, then, you, I, and others as well, probably won't be getting, the full potential, that, the engine in question, is capable of outputting...….and.....till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Great explanation mate, thanks for the effort 👍
Greetings...Ray Carberry...……You're welcome, and thanks for the nice comment...……Hmmm.....let's see now...….If I were to use only words, to describe the heat range of a spark plug, then, here Ya go....….The spark plug manufacturer's heat range number, is usually based on, the temperature, that, the spark plug tries to maintain, while it's inside of, a running engine's combustion chamber, and it does this, by transferring, a certain amount of heat, into the engine's cylinder head, by its design, via, the screw-threads, and the tapered seat, on one type of spark plug, while the older type, would be, the screw-threads, as well as, the flat surface, that has, that steel crush washer on it, that gets squished thinner, as it's being tightened, into, the cylinder head's screw-threads, as I recall...…….Thanks again, and...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
A doubt recently got a "Brisk LGS" spark plug (OEM was NGK), i had installed (DImyself it was wrist tight 🙂) in cold start Moto started, but after it reached operating temps and switched off (10-20mins) then tried to start it again (thumb start) there is no response for about 3-5 seconds.
I then removed the (brisk spark plug since that was the part that was replaced) and torqued it to as per packaging 12lbs-ft/ 17Nmm, I didn't get the trouble again. is it because of spark plug (brisk) or is it low tolorence of torq value being below spec?
would love your opinion on this please
Ford actually updated early 4.6L V8's to the longer thread design sparkplugs. The early 4.6L engines were having a lot of sparkplug thread issues, when it was time ti replace the plugs the treads would end up being pulled out of the heads...
My two cent's...
Greetings...Jose Cuevas...….Thanks for watching...….Was that the type of cylinder head, that had those, quite long spark plugs, that would sometimes break in two pieces, when, trying to remove them…??? (and, if so, then, that, was some pretty bad designing/engineering, I be thinkin'...lol)..……..I recall seeing, that, there was an "extraction" tool/kit, that was designed to remove, the broken part of the spark plug, from the cylinder head, and hopefully, the cylinder head's screw-threads, and, if applicable, the rest of that bore (hole), would not be damaged too much, so it was usable again (keeping fingers crossed, is a good thing to practise, under these conditions...lol, for me, but not so much, for the owner, of such a vehicle)………..I never did like aluminum heads, from a durability/long life perspective, but, for racing, and keeping a vehicle's weight down, then, there Ya have it...…..and...….till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
When making modifications like headers, compression ratio changes, and even displacement - do you always go higher than stock heat range, or does it depend on the type and how would you address each of those mods? Thanks for the video
Greetings...Micheal Wells...……You're welcome, and, thanks for watching...…..Usually, whenever an engine is modified, for a performance increase, then, the spark plug's heat range, most times, will usually, be going, to a "colder" heat range (and not a "hotter" heat range, as you had mentioned)……...Gotta be very careful, with some of the different, spark plug manufacturer's, heat range numbers, as in, let's compare an older/cheaper, Champion spark plug's heat range number, with an older/cheaper, NGK spark plug's heat range number...…….The Champion, spark plug's heat range number, gets "higher", as, its heat range gets "hotter"...and...the NGK's heat range number, gets "smaller", as its heat range gets "hotter"...!!!...so, always make sure, that, you know, how each spark plug manufacturer, number (and/or, letter) codes, its spark plug's, heat ranges, or, Ya might end up with, some engine damage...…….When it comes to, just about any engine, I tend to think in terms of, a given engine, shall we say, as, having its own (individual) "personality" (kinda like, us humans do...lol)……….I still recall, by, just installing, something like, a set of long tube exhaust "headers", on, an older carbureted (not fuel injected) V-8 engine, that, the air/fuel ratio, got "leaner", because of, the "scavenging" effect, that those headers were know for (as in, the exhaust gas pulses, that are inside of, the header's tubes, will actually, pull the exhaust gas, away from/out of, the cylinder head's, exhaust ports)……….Gasoline, with about 10% ethanol (alcohol), in its blend, will also cause a carbureted engine, to run, on a leaner, air/fuel ratio as well (I had to re-jet the carburetor, quite a bit richer, by having headers, and, burning 10% ethanol gasoline as well)……...If it's a fuel injected engine, that you are dealing with, then, the vehicle's on board computer, will have to be re-programmed (if possible), or, an after-market, programmable, on-board computer, will probably be needed, especially so, if you were to bolt on, something like, a "turbo-charger", or, "super-charger"...…….The good ole rule-of-thumb, would be, to, make the spark plug's "gap" (that's, between the two electrodes) "smaller", when-ever, the engine's, cylinder pressure "increases"...……..It's a lot easier, to make a spark plug, go "spark", in open air/atmosphere, and, a heck a lot more difficult, it will be getting, for it to go "spark", as the engine's cylinder pressure increases...…….If, and when-ever, considering, any engine modifications at all, then always, "plan-ahead", and, do lots of studying/research, because, if Ya don't do it right, the engine's performance, might not be as good as expected, and, engine damage is also possible...…….Just about every modification made, will have some affect, on how an engine behaves/performs...…...Certain modifications, might be tailored for, more horsepower, at higher engine RPM's, and, Ya might lose some low rpm torque at the very same time, possibly...…….The engine itself, has to be mechanically strong enough, for the amount of, torque/horsepower increase, or, something, is usually, gonna, "self-destruct"...!!!...……In closing, look for some websites, that have a "Forum" on it, that is focused on, your..."exact"...year and make, of vehicle & engine, as, some of the people, on those specific, automotive forums, will probably be able to tell you, what modifications, and, the affect that they had, on their engine's performance, oh, and, if and when-ever, Ya decide to go ahead, and make a modification or two, be sure to, have Lot-sa-Money, in Ur bank account, for your chosen modifications (and maybe, for some, shine-ee "bling" too...!!!...lol).........Good luck, and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thanks for the upload...i like it n God Bless
Greetings...arrchee88.............You're welcome, and, Thanks for watching..............If, and when-ever, the time comes, that Your Engine is in need of a New set of Spark Plugs, then, by replacing those old/used spark plugs, with the Same/Original Spark Plugs, that Factory installed in the Engine, when it was brand new, would probably be the safest and best bet, just in case, something goes wrong................If a spark plug's Heat Range, is too Cold (running at less than, oh, about 1,000 Degrees Fahrenheit, there-abouts), then, the Deposits, would probably not burn off enough, and will probably start building up on the spark plug, and usually, probably won't harm the engine, but, some misfiring, still might occur.............If the spark plugs, happen to have, a Higher than wanted Heat Range (too Hot), then, the spark plugs would probably look nice-n-clean, but, on a bad day, engine Damage, might be the result...!!!...so, make sure, that, the spark plug's Heat Range, as well as, its physical dimensions, are the Same, as the Factory Originals, especially so, where the part of the spark plug, goes into the Cylinder Head, in order to avoid any, not wanted, and expensive engine Damage........and........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Pulstar has only 2 heat range compared to other brands. How does this work?
Greetings...Nikhil BN............Thanks for watching............Only 2 heat ranges You say...???...........Seems kinda strange alright...........Perhaps, that type of spark plug is self adjusting maybe...???.............I do recall, doing some spark plug cross-referencing, not so long ago, and I found that, some spark plug manufacturers had one heat range, that would, shall we say, cover another spark plug manufacturer's spark plug, that had 2 or 3 different heat ranges, that were in sequence/close to each other............The older Champion spark plug numbering system is the one that I like the most, as compared to most of the other numbering systems............The older Champions, would have a higher number for a hotter plug, where-as, some spark plug manufacturers, get hotter, when the number gets smaller, so, pay close attention to that.............Lets take a Champion N-12-Y for example............12 is the heat range, and I had a car that wasn't being driven at the time, and I broke one of the spark plugs upon removal..............I had a brand new Champion N-14-Y spark plug in a drawer, that was only 2 heat ranges hotter than that 12 was, so I installed it............Wowsers...!!!...just at idle speed mostly, cuz the car wasn't being driven at the time, that 14 heat range, was sure hotter, just by looking at it, as it didn't have the amount of deposits on it, like the 12 heat range did...!!!............I never did run the 14 heat range on the street for that engine, cuz, it would probably be too hot of a heat range, especially at higher speeds, and in went a set of 12 heat range spark plugs............Safest thing to do with a factory stock engine, is to just use the Vehicle Manufacturer's recommended spark plug, so as to avoid any unwanted problems......and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hi Nikhil. Pulstar typically makes very expensive spark plugs selling the concept of more performance. If you haven't taken you NA engine to being a super charger and/or turbo charger, then it isn't for you.
Hello i have this motorcycle and its required a sparkplug code NGK C8E and my mech replace it with a cpr6 so it means he replace it with hotter sparkplug is it bad for my engine?
Greetings...Lucy Abulencia.........Thanks for watching.........Yes, a spark plug, that has a "hotter" heat range, than, a park plug, that has the "correct" heat range, for your exact engine, can sometimes, cause "damage", to your engine...!!!.........If your engine is an original, factory/stock engine, that "does not", have any modifications done to it, then, the best, and safest thing to do, would be to, install the..."exact/same"...spark plug, that was installed by the factory/manufacturer, when your engine was brand new.........If you have the owners manual, for your motorcycle, then, you might find, the "correct" spark plug code, in there somewhere.........The heat range, for NGK spark plugs, will probably get "hotter", as, the number gets "smaller" (it's opposite, with something like, the older Champion spark plugs, just so Ya know).........Going from a heat range of..."8"..then, going to a "hotter" heat range of..."6"...for an NGK, brand of spark plug, is quite an..."increase"...in the heat range, alright........Even, if "only" going "1" heat range hotter, then, that, can also make, quite a bit of difference as well........By using, too..."hot"...of a heat range, the spark plug, will remain at, a higher than wanted, operating temperature, which, might ignite the air/fuel mixture, too early, as the piston is rising up in the cylinder, while the piston, is also compressing, that very same, air/fuel mixture, and this, sometimes, causing, engine damage, problem, usually goes by the name of..."Pre-ignition" (as in, igniting, the air/fuel mixture..."before"...the spark plug, actually goes "spark"...!!!).........So then, If you want to keep your engine "safe", and also, last, a long, long time, then, always be sure to, use the "correct" spark plug, for that "exact" engine, and......till next time......Be Safe.....take care, and have a good one.
I was about to buy denso iridium TT IEXH20TT and then found they have another version IEXH20 *E* TT :/
The difference is the reach which is 2mm, the first one is 26.50mm and the second one is 28.50!
Does that 2mm reach matter to my 60k miles engine? I am changing it because ngks are acting weird.
Greetings...eth3rl0rds...……..Thanks for watching...……..Well, in order prevent, having any possible, unwanted engine damage..."never-ever"...install a spark plug, that is physically..."longer"...than, the spark plug, that the vehicle manufacturer installed in that engine, when the engine was brand new...!!! (that, longer spark plug, might...???...come in contact, with the top of the piston, and/or, make contact, with one of the valves), and, Ya sure don't want to take that chance, and damage your engine, right...???....and also, it'll probably be very expensive to fix, if it's possible to do so, that is...……...(in my opinion)...Your..."Safest"...spark plug choice, for your "exact" engine (if the engine, is, factory "stock/no modifications"), would be, to use, and install, the..."Exact/Same"...spark plugs, that the vehicle manufacturer, installed in the engine, when it was brand new...……..Sure, you might consider using a spark plug, "cross-reference" chart, and, the other type of spark plug, might work ok, or maybe, not work so good...???...……..The spark plug's physical "length" (especially so, the distance measured from, where the spark plug actually makes contact with the cylinder head, to the outside edge, of the spark plug's outer electrode, so as to, avoid having the spark plug's electrode end, making any contact at all, with the piston top, or valves), just like, I had already mentioned...……...The "heat range" of the spark plug, has to be correct too, as in, too "cold", then, spark plug fouling might occur, and cause the engine to misfire...……...If the "heat range" is too "hot", then sometimes, "severe engine damage", can be the result...!!!...……..Also, make sure, that, the spark plug's "gap" (gap = the clearance/air gap, that's between the two electrodes), is, the same as, what the vehicle manufacturer "specifies", for your "exact" engine (please note, that, some spark plug designs, "are-not", gap-able/set-able, so as to avoid, not to damage, that particular type of spark plug...!!!)..........So then, if Ya try, to save a bit of money, by purchasing another type of spark plug, then, will the risk of expensive engine damage, be worth the risk...???...…...Well, it's all up to you, as to, what path you'll choose...……..Good luck, and...…..till next time...…..Be Safe, take care and have a good one.
@@RockysRoadshow Thank you for the detailed info and yes, engine damage is something REALLY expensive to repair or sometimes not worth it at all and didn't wanna go through that phase because of silly mistake and that is why I waited.
I got the Denso TT and found it is indeed 2mm longer but that size is compensated with the washer. Inside the chamber, the length is same and the NGK heat was 7 but denso is 20 which is the same falls right between hot and cold... NGK was giving me bit knocking at lower gear when accelerate but with denso, it's buttery smooth now!
So the higher the number or the lower number the colder the spark plug I have one spark plug rated at 20 and the other one Heat range 15 which and another 27 which one would be the colder plug. I need to run one step colder plugs. Thanks
Greetings...redbaron2448...........Thanks for watching............Be very careful, whenever changing the "heat range" of a spark plug, that is going to be different from, the factory installed, spark plug's heat range designation, especially so, if it happens to be, going to a "hotter" heat range, because, it can cause lots of engine "damage", if you get it wrong...!!!...but, then again, you did say, one step "colder", right.............Warning...!!!...some spark plug manufacturer's, heat ranges, get "hotter", when the number gets "smaller", while others, get "hotter", when the number gets larger, interesting huh..........Here are two examples for Ya..........Let's take a much older, N-12-Y Champion spark plug, and compare it to, an NGK-5 heat range spark plug, and also, which direction the number will go, when going to, a "hotter" heat range, shall we...........With the older Champion spark plugs, the heat range got "hotter", as the number got "larger"...where-as...with most of the NGK spark plugs, that, I have used in the past, had the heat range, getting "hotter", as the number got "smaller"...!!!...........If you want to see, a, shall we say, "side-by-side" comparison, then, do an internet search, for a spark plug..."cross reference"...chart (select "images", on your browser, after doing the word/printed search), that will show, quite a few, different spark plug manufacturer's heat ranges, and more information, "side-by-side", on the very same chart (impressive that, I must say)...........If Ya need any more help at all, just let me know, things like, the spark plug "manufacturer's name", and what kind of engine, etc., and.......till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoadshow. Great video by the way and thanks for the help. So the NGK Spark plugs say 1 step colder than factor, 2005 Mercedes e55 AMG , so how do I file a tax lien holder what number should I be looking for as in heat range a 20,15 ,10, or do i look higher 25,30,40. Some parts the higher the number the better other parts the lower number the better so I'm not really sure about spark plugs if the lower number is better with the higher number is better. Just like in my thermostat the lower number obviously is going to be the colder running temp for instance instead of a 185 degrees I'll be running 145 temp. Hope that makes sense. Thanks again
Greetings...redbaron2448.........You're welcome, and thanks for the nice comment.........Before you go, and start changing any parts on your car, that "are not" going to be the same, as the "factory original" (Mercedes) installed parts, then, it will probably be a very good idea, to study first, and ask other people, what parts, worked really good for them, for your exact same car, without causing any expensive damage...........Try to find a website on the internet, that has a "Forum" on it, for your "exact" same car and engine (supercharged engine?), and you will be able to ask, some of those very smart people, lots of questions, about whatever it is, that you want your car to be doing, that will be, any different from, how Mercedes set up your engine and car at the factory, when it was new...........You will have to find out, what the "exact" brand and type of spark plugs, that the Mercedes factory, installed in your engine, when it was brand new, and, if you want to use a "different" brand of spark plug, then you will have to use a spark plug "cross reference" chart, and/or, phone, or go to an automotive parts store, and the parts person, should be able to tell you, what the "standard" factory original (heat range) spark plug is, in some different "brands", as well as, hotter and colder heat ranges as well...........Now then, about using a very low temperature "thermostat" in your engine...........That 145 degree Fahrenheit thermostat temperature rating, is probably too "cold", and the engine will probably be wasting gasoline, while just cruising along on the highway, at not too fast of a speed..........Also, there will probably be a "coolant temperature sensor", in your engine, that will be telling the car's on-board computer, how hot (or cold) the engine "coolant" (anti-freeze and water mixture) is, and, if it stays at 145 degrees, then, the computer, might not go into, what is called "closed loop" operation, and fuel economy won't be very good, and your engine, might get full of, too many "carbon deposits"..........."Open Loop", on-board computer operation, usually happens, when the engine is cold, and just warming up, and also, when the gas pedal is pushed down quite far, like you are kinda racing, somewhat..........Make sure, that, your "cooling system" is in very good condition, with "coolant" that is not too old, because sometimes, the radiator gets "plugged" up with corrosion and other stuff, inside of all of those very small, flat shaped tubes, that can cause an engine to run too hot, or maybe over-heat too, because of the coolant, "not" being able to freely flow, through all of those small, flat shaped tubes..........If your radiator, has one or more electric fans, mounted on it, then, the fan/s, have to start running, when the programmed temperature is reached (might be around 200 degrees Fahrenheit , possibly), so, engine (coolant) "overheating", can also be caused by, one or more Fans, not running, when they are supposed to (especially important, while the car is at a stop, on a very hot day)............Also, "Never" open (remove) a radiator "Cap", when the engine's "Coolant" is "Hot", because, that very "Hot, and under Pressure" Coolant, can spray all over the place, and, can also, cause Serious "Burns"...!!!...and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
2 stroke cycle? I almost fell out of my seat chair
AC Delco sparkplugs are manufactured by "Champion".
Greetings...Jose Cuevas...…...Thanks for watching...…….Well, that's something, that I've never heard of, very interesting...……..For the older, cheaper spark plugs, I'm now using NGK spark plugs, because, if Ya measure the ohms/resistance, of the "center electrode", on a new spark plug, then, the NGK's, are usually, no more than, about 5,000 ohms...……..Some other brands of spark plugs, are way too high in ohms/resistance, for my liking...……..Less resistance, usually means, that, more of that high voltage, that the ignition coil outputs, goes to your spark plug's electrode/s, which to me, will probably make for, a more intense spark, I be thinkin', but, everything else, in the ignition system's, high voltage secondary circuit, has to be in top shape as well, as in, spark plug "wires", and if applicable, distributor parts & pieces as well...….and......till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.