In doing your comparisons, you might also want to try India Ink. Great black coverage with grain still showing through. Works well on low tannin woods, and not expensive. I have had excellent results with it, esp. with Jo Sonja paints. I finish the project with clear lacquer to seal it all. Any black wood dye, either water or alcohol will also work, but India ink is less expensive.
Thank you Valerie. Certainly another good idea. The only downfall on the dies etc. compared to paint type application is that they do soak into the wood so could cause issues when you turn away into them with bleeding colours into natural wood. Of course there are lots of different ways with different results. Indian Ink I believe is a permanent ink, so I can see I will end up with black fingers for a few days as I rarely would wear gloves. 😂😂
Paul Lockwood Sanding sealer helps keep dyes from bleeding. But since this is for an undercoat, that would not be a problem. I have also had really good luck with black lacquer paint (rather than other types of paint) in a rattle can, and it was in the lower price range. That works well with acrylic paint, and topcoat of lacquer clear. And I do use the disposable gloves for India ink, though lemon juice (any citrus) does remove it from skin.
Great video Paul, really interesting results. You are right about the speed of your lathe. I have found around 290-300 be the max speed I can turn when spraying anything or I get issues. I would say your best bet for making the wood black is to use a black dye, much more predictable and you still get the grain
Thank you John. Another good idea. That would work well like the home made ebonising solution (where woods had hi tannin for that). The only issue on those is where you don't want it to soak into the wood if you need to turn right next to where you colour the wood to show the wood itself. Horses for courses on all these products. I mainly did this video to compare these two products as to me they both seem to be a paint, named and priced differently.
@@PaulLockwood if you apply light coats with a water based dye it will not soak in very far. you do need to watch for it though thats for sure. I was really thinking as an alternative to the ebonising solution. I do like to use that on certain woods but its unpredictable
Lots of different options to do this sort of thing. In a couple of videos time I will be using the Walnut crystals I used on my Christmas Ornaments. This works really well on one of the pieces.
Did the instructions not say ‘25-30mm’ which is only 11-12 inches Paul? It looked like you were spraying 25-30 inches away which may have drastically reduced the coverage of the ebonising lacquer whereas the paint, being thicker, was able to travel that distance and still cover the vase.
25-30cm. Yes I may have been at that top end and maybe a little further away. Certainly not quite as much as 24 inches though. Going on thinner is actually probably better to allow you to build up the coats. I would rather take longer putting one coat on and have that thinner option than struggling to put on a thin coat.
i have had no problem with chestnut ebonising lacquer, i find the jo sonja paints stick to it really well, but i will try to find some 151 paint and give it a go, always looking for a way to save money
Hi Lindsay. I think the main reason for the comparison was to see if there was much difference to the Ebonising Lacquer compared to paint. I buy my paint from sprayster.com so when you spend over a certain amount it's free carriage. I mainly buy their spray lacquer to finish a lot of pieces off when wax or oil is not favoured. If you just want one tin then try ebay which may be cheaper.
Another good idea but that could cause issues if you want to use something on top that has a moisture content like more paint which can then cause the colours to run. I was mainly comparing these two products as I cannot see much difference between them. To me the ebonising lacquer really is a lot like a spray paint but 4 times the price.
Thanks for the information Paul and I much prefer the vinegar and wire wool solution only problem I have with that is it goes rusty after a while and makes the wood the same am I doing something wrong?
Thank you Graham. You need to dissolve the wire wool in Vinegar. Too much wire wool and it may not all dissolve. The best example of me using the ebonising solution may be back on when I made my ships cannon. Look in the video for where I made the main barrel.
Hi ! I have never used ebonising laquer or black paint on wood, but it seems to me that your are expecting the same result for both of this, while laquer is meant to give a result where you steel see the wood fibers. Here I think you put to much of it.
Thank you Paul for making and sharing your work it was a great help
Regards
Steve
Thank you for watching. Personally a £1 paint compared to £8 ebonising Lacquer is something not to be sniffed at.
In doing your comparisons, you might also want to try India Ink. Great black coverage with grain still showing through. Works well on low tannin woods, and not expensive. I have had excellent results with it, esp. with Jo Sonja paints. I finish the project with clear lacquer to seal it all. Any black wood dye, either water or alcohol will also work, but India ink is less expensive.
Thank you Valerie. Certainly another good idea. The only downfall on the dies etc. compared to paint type application is that they do soak into the wood so could cause issues when you turn away into them with bleeding colours into natural wood.
Of course there are lots of different ways with different results. Indian Ink I believe is a permanent ink, so I can see I will end up with black fingers for a few days as I rarely would wear gloves. 😂😂
Paul Lockwood Sanding sealer helps keep dyes from bleeding. But since this is for an undercoat, that would not be a problem. I have also had really good luck with black lacquer paint (rather than other types of paint) in a rattle can, and it was in the lower price range. That works well with acrylic paint, and topcoat of lacquer clear. And I do use the disposable gloves for India ink, though lemon juice (any citrus) does remove it from skin.
I learned a lot of that video Paul.
Cheers, Júlíus
Thank you Julius
Well you explained all options there Paul like you I use auto paint a pound a tin can't go wrong 👍👍
Thank you Barry. I see very little difference in the end product so cannot justify the higher price tag in the future for now.
Great video Paul, really interesting results. You are right about the speed of your lathe. I have found around 290-300 be the max speed I can turn when spraying anything or I get issues. I would say your best bet for making the wood black is to use a black dye, much more predictable and you still get the grain
Thank you John. Another good idea. That would work well like the home made ebonising solution (where woods had hi tannin for that). The only issue on those is where you don't want it to soak into the wood if you need to turn right next to where you colour the wood to show the wood itself. Horses for courses on all these products.
I mainly did this video to compare these two products as to me they both seem to be a paint, named and priced differently.
@@PaulLockwood if you apply light coats with a water based dye it will not soak in very far. you do need to watch for it though thats for sure. I was really thinking as an alternative to the ebonising solution. I do like to use that on certain woods but its unpredictable
Lots of different options to do this sort of thing. In a couple of videos time I will be using the Walnut crystals I used on my Christmas Ornaments. This works really well on one of the pieces.
I thought this was very interesting..,I've been thinking about dabbling with colors...I learned a few things - thanks!
Thank you Jimmie. I think this is one of the things you have to do yourself as I'm sure we will all get slightly different results.
Did the instructions not say ‘25-30mm’ which is only 11-12 inches Paul? It looked like you were spraying 25-30 inches away which may have drastically reduced the coverage of the ebonising lacquer whereas the paint, being thicker, was able to travel that distance and still cover the vase.
25-30cm. Yes I may have been at that top end and maybe a little further away. Certainly not quite as much as 24 inches though. Going on thinner is actually probably better to allow you to build up the coats. I would rather take longer putting one coat on and have that thinner option than struggling to put on a thin coat.
i have had no problem with chestnut ebonising lacquer, i find the jo sonja paints stick to it really well, but i will try to find some 151 paint and give it a go, always looking for a way to save money
Hi Lindsay. I think the main reason for the comparison was to see if there was much difference to the Ebonising Lacquer compared to paint. I buy my paint from sprayster.com so when you spend over a certain amount it's free carriage. I mainly buy their spray lacquer to finish a lot of pieces off when wax or oil is not favoured. If you just want one tin then try ebay which may be cheaper.
Try using water based paints like acrylics. They soak into the wood far better. Works on plywood too.
Another good idea but that could cause issues if you want to use something on top that has a moisture content like more paint which can then cause the colours to run. I was mainly comparing these two products as I cannot see much difference between them. To me the ebonising lacquer really is a lot like a spray paint but 4 times the price.
Thanks for the information Paul and I much prefer the vinegar and wire wool solution only problem I have with that is it goes rusty after a while and makes the wood the same am I doing something wrong?
Thank you Graham. You need to dissolve the wire wool in Vinegar. Too much wire wool and it may not all dissolve. The best example of me using the ebonising solution may be back on when I made my ships cannon. Look in the video for where I made the main barrel.
Very interesting video, was the can's of paint from Poundland ? Also i have used a black sharpie to colour the wood, it works very well
Thank you Mart. I buy them from sprayster.com which is where I buy a lot of lacquer too.
@@PaulLockwood Thanks for that recommendation
Hi ! I have never used ebonising laquer or black paint on wood, but it seems to me that your are expecting the same result for both of this, while laquer is meant to give a result where you steel see the wood fibers. Here I think you put to much of it.