Tip for folks before you go through this. I tightened mine. After them leaking around a quart every 4 to 5 thousands miles (I don't change oil but every 20 to 25 thousand) I watched a video tightening the valve cover bolts. It is more about finesse than brute force. They have a tourqe spec but I just took a 1/4 drive and tightened past "snug". It eliminated about 95% of the leak. This is a great video, you just might want to try this first.
Agreed. Sometimes there’s room to squeeze them down a quarter turn. On some vehicles, however, the bolts bottom out. This leaves you with no room to retighten them if the gasket dries out and flat spots. But, it’s definitely with a shot. :)
I noticed my bolts were soft tight also so I got a set of 1/4 inch extensions and a ten mm socket I’m gonna try to snug them up first. The little oil I’m loosing is not that bad and I have other things I want to do first.
@@MechanicalTriage On the 1MZ-FE Engine, which is another bullet proof one. The bolts bottom out before they tighten enough, however a trick is to add multiple flat washers to the screw then you can tighten before bottoming out. I did this on mine and is holdin up great.
I did my valve cover gaskets on a weekend I was home (always traveling back and forth 320 miles/week). I had to complete the job quickly (on my first attempt). I did and it worked but now the half moon seals are leaking again. I wasn't careful with the half moons; that seems to be where leaks are happening. Just to sum up; take care with all the FIP gasket placement. Now I have to redo everything but it's 120,000 miles later!
After 120k, that’s not bad. Ive overlooked those seals on a few jobs also. Make sure you address any pcv valve issues though, cause those seals might be rock hard, but you could also have excessive pcv pressures from ring blow by that is contributing to the leaks..
Great Video. Lots of little tips that helped me through this, thanks! (I do take exception to the "3 hour" bit though - more like "3 days" if you're learning and pokey like me!!) Thank you so much!
I always recommend to take off ,because sometime you have to reset the computer for the trottle or to avoid any electric damage to the system! But that fine ,you have done a good job! enjoy your time, and God bless you!
Man it’s an old car 🚗 I worked on all those 1997 1998 1999 2000 Took the the whole throttle clean it and put it back , with 0 issue ...I don’t know where you com up with that computer BS
30 minute time savings: On the tube seals replacement. Don't bend the tabs on the 6 seals - instead, use a screwdriver 180 degrees opposite each tab location to deform the metal rings, driving each toward the center of the tube hole on a 45 degree downward angle. Other vids have showed this process. Then, turn each valve cover right-side up. Now use screwdriver from the top side, placing it on the old seal "lip" you created in the deform process (looking down through the hole you'll see the deformed ring) and knocking-out the old tube seal with a top-down strike. Back to the underside, to install new seals, insert the new seal under the tab, with the seals' opposite side sticking up proud of the hole. Use a 1x2 (or other) scrap of wood to press it flush.
I personally think it's a good idea to always replace the half moons, but just the fact that you even realize they exist is a good thing lol. These are great engines.
A very important 2 steps, you left out...which I did not see you do, is to pop out the rear 2 round caps and reseal. Not sure why the gasket kit does not come with these new round 2 caps. There is one each, on the right and left side. These will leak!! ASK ME HOW I KNOW .
Valid point, most ohc engines have these seals in the back, and no, I don’t ever remember seeing them come with the valve cover set. After thought is to stop least reseal them. But yeah, do it right and replace them. :)
Great video. Did the valve cover gaskets and the timing belt on my 97 4runner 3.4. Learned much in the process. Do you have any pointers or tricks to deal with stuck/seized bolts?I'm sure that you run into that often. It will turn a 20 minute job into a half of a day mess. Keep going with the great vids. Thanks.
There are a couple/few tricks, depending on the materials you are working with. In respect to the Prius hub video I made, steel bolts through corroded aluminum is a horrible thing. That’s the number one day killer in my opinion. There isn’t really anything you can do as far as penetrant or heat that will help, so a bigger hammer is sufficient. Heat works well, depending again on the materials involved. It will help wick penetrating oil, and I only recommend “free all” penetrating oil. But one of the most important things I’ve learned about stuck and rusty bolts (from an 89 year old machinist) is, if it feels like it’s going to break, it will.. Loosen it up a half turn, then tighten it back, and forth, and back, and so on, an so forth. Add some penetrant, and be PATIENT. You can spend 20 minutes sanding a bolt out this way, or an hour trying to drill it out and chasing threads because you thought it just needed a little more force to “break it free”
Is that one of the reasons you don't use impacts and etc? You have a better feel by hand . It's amazing that you don't use any power tools and still be efficient enough to get your jobs done. It would be very difficult for me to give up all my power stuff. Thanks !
In a shop environment I would definitely use some power tools, having the room for a compressor and a cart of heavy air tools. But, I actually downsized from my last truck, and focus more on emergency type repairs and diagnostics. I can still pull an engine and drop a transmission, but I prefer not to if I don’t have to. There are numerous reasons I prefer hand tools, but I still have a grinder and sawzall and impact gun if needed.
I have to do this job soon. Let me know if I’ve missed anything in the parts list - full gasket set for inlet manifold - rocker cover gaskets - spark plug seals - rubber washers that hold down the rocker covers. - new spark plugs Should I expect to need any special tools?
@@MechanicalTriage What year is the 4Runner? I have 2010 4Runner & took my card to toyota dealership I was told the car needs gasket replacement & prices are ridiculous
The one in the video is a 2002, with a 3.4 liter engine. Yours is a 4.0 liter engine. Approximately a 3 hour job. I would estimate the shop price to be about $700
@@MechanicalTriage it is timing cover gasket, front Main, Valve Cover FIPG coolant. I realized there was something wrong with my car, because of the oil leak but the weird part no maintenance light ever came on.
The cheapest parts cause the biggest problems. My pcv valve broke, in the process of getting it out, the petrified rubber grommet broke in half and fell into the valve cover.
I would probably just leave it, it’ll find it’s way to the oil pan eventually. Now if you lost chunks of plastic, might warrant removing the valve cover.
is there supposed to be a tiny gap after torquing down the valve cover bolts? I have roughly an 1/8 all the way around the cover and the mating surface. All bolts are tight and it feels like it won't leak but want to be sure before I go any further. thanks
Yes, there should be. The gasket lets the valve cover “float”. And the gasket should be smashed evenly around the cover. Take a mirror around the valve cover edges and confirm the gasket is in place, and there are no openings.
If you use any kind of RTV, at ALL, I would use the “right stuff” (one minute gasket). I use it across the board for coolant, oil pans, transmissions, and differentials.
Ok so I have a p0300 code random misfires with following p0301,02,03,04,06 on a 97 4 runner and a I recently changed spark plugs coils cables and 2 air hoses I also resealed my coil canister bcs it was leaking air from the bottom, it can't be anything fuel as the pump filter and other stuff are new on that side I have given it a compression test but I am honestly thinking it's the fuel injectors although the car runs great no shaking nothing I'm just not sure how I could test my theory without taking my whole engine bay apart like u was wondering if you could give me any tips on this random misfire not sure what it could be just guessing
It’s possible it has a clogged catalytic converter that is causing back pressure, or the injectors are over/under fueling because of a dirty maf sensor or oxygen sensor.
Hey man, Can I ask - did you do the FRONT camshaft plugs as well? Or just the rear ones? The one one the front passenger side seems impossible to get out (due to clearance from the radiator mount in front of it). Just curious if you did the front ones as well, and if you didn't - was it for the same reason, or some other reason? Anyone here have a response? Thanks!
@@MechanicalTriage Thank you!. That helps a ton. That makes sense, and makes me feel better, as I was really struggling to see how to get in there with the timing belt bracket/backside there impacting the access of the actual plug itself. Thank you again for your quick reply and info!
Sorry, not at this point. That was a couple years ago. I will start putting tools aside when I do jobs from now on and sum it up at the beginning of my videos. Sorry
I do not have enough tutorials yet, this is just a beginning to this new playlist. I found this, it may help in your situation. ua-cam.com/video/nTw_u396O5o/v-deo.html
It really depends on what area you are in. Where I am located, and within 20 miles of me, the cost for this job could vary from $300 to $700. It depends on the mechanic you hire, and what people in the area you are in are willing to pay for mobile services.
On this job, no. I’ve been doing this sooooo long, that I usually only torque rod bearings, mains, cams, and head bolts.. this vehicle repair has not had an issue since I worked on it
@@MechanicalTriage The reason I asked is because I always worry about over tightening, especially when rubber parts or gaskets are involved. Not having your experience, I was just wondering if it was a good idea for someone like me to torque on a job like this. Thanks.
I do recommend torquing to proper specs whenever possible. Being even and consistent is key. I have learned many a time what “too tight” looks like. ;) Please note that, during the motorcycle engine build, cb750k, I followed torque specs on 99% of all the engine bolts. Being my first full motorcycle engine build, I didn’t have any recourse for broken or warped parts.
If your concerned, you’ll probably run into something that makes you call a mechanic, and you’ll lose a day with your rig. Best bet, call someone In to do it for ya, and spend your time perfecting your craft to make your skills better in whatever your a specialist in. :)
To check for vacuum leaks. After removing the intake and reinstalling it, I wanted to make sure there were no vacuum leaks in either the intake gasket or any vacuum lines. Brake clean is VERY flammable, and will make the rpms change if sucked into the intake.
I wasn’t familiar with the method to check for vacuum leaks. Thanks. (Also: how did I not know this???) This video explains in more detail. Starter fluid might be a better option over brake cleaner. ua-cam.com/video/UL9NqqZToJs/v-deo.html
Also while you’re there folks change the plugs wires and coil packs if it’s time. Lol so much easier from there
I have an '03 Tundra with the same motor. Today I changed the ignition coils and wires. Valve and pan gaskets are next. Now I know how to. Thanks.
Tip for folks before you go through this. I tightened mine. After them leaking around a quart every 4 to 5 thousands miles (I don't change oil but every 20 to 25 thousand) I watched a video tightening the valve cover bolts. It is more about finesse than brute force. They have a tourqe spec but I just took a 1/4 drive and tightened past "snug". It eliminated about 95% of the leak. This is a great video, you just might want to try this first.
Agreed. Sometimes there’s room to squeeze them down a quarter turn. On some vehicles, however, the bolts bottom out. This leaves you with no room to retighten them if the gasket dries out and flat spots. But, it’s definitely with a shot. :)
I noticed my bolts were soft tight also so I got a set of 1/4 inch extensions and a ten mm socket I’m gonna try to snug them up first. The little oil I’m loosing is not that bad and I have other things I want to do first.
You should change your oil more often if you want your engine to last.
@@Nessal83 I have 1.2 millions miles between 3 vehicles. I don't recommend it but it worked for me
@@MechanicalTriage On the 1MZ-FE Engine, which is another bullet proof one. The bolts bottom out before they tighten enough, however a trick is to add multiple flat washers to the screw then you can tighten before bottoming out. I did this on mine and is holdin up great.
I appreciated your candid take on this R&R of the Valve Cover Gasket. I'm going to be doing my own this weekend & this was very helpful. Cheers, Mate!
I did my valve cover gaskets on a weekend I was home (always traveling back and forth 320 miles/week). I had to complete the job quickly (on my first attempt). I did and it worked but now the half moon seals are leaking again. I wasn't careful with the half moons; that seems to be where leaks are happening. Just to sum up; take care with all the FIP gasket placement. Now I have to redo everything but it's 120,000 miles later!
After 120k, that’s not bad. Ive overlooked those seals on a few jobs also. Make sure you address any pcv valve issues though, cause those seals might be rock hard, but you could also have excessive pcv pressures from ring blow by that is contributing to the leaks..
Great Video. Lots of little tips that helped me through this, thanks! (I do take exception to the "3 hour" bit though - more like "3 days" if you're learning and pokey like me!!) Thank you so much!
Daytime videos are the best 👌
Very professional
One of the least likely places to look but biggest oil leaks is the o ring on the dip stick tube down by the oil pump. Takes 5 minutes to replace.
I always recommend to take off ,because sometime you have to reset the computer for the trottle or to avoid any electric damage to the system! But that fine ,you have done a good job! enjoy your time, and God bless you!
Man it’s an old car 🚗
I worked on all those 1997 1998 1999 2000
Took the the whole throttle clean it and put it back , with 0 issue ...I don’t know where you com up with that computer BS
30 minute time savings: On the tube seals replacement. Don't bend the tabs on the 6 seals - instead, use a screwdriver 180 degrees opposite each tab location to deform the metal rings, driving each toward the center of the tube hole on a 45 degree downward angle. Other vids have showed this process. Then, turn each valve cover right-side up. Now use screwdriver from the top side, placing it on the old seal "lip" you created in the deform process (looking down through the hole you'll see the deformed ring) and knocking-out the old tube seal with a top-down strike. Back to the underside, to install new seals, insert the new seal under the tab, with the seals' opposite side sticking up proud of the hole. Use a 1x2 (or other) scrap of wood to press it flush.
I personally think it's a good idea to always replace the half moons, but just the fact that you even realize they exist is a good thing lol. These are great engines.
Fir the left side,you don't need to remove the intake, but for the driver side(right).yes you have to.
A very important 2 steps, you left out...which I did not see you do, is to pop out the rear 2 round caps and reseal. Not sure why the gasket kit does not come with these new round 2 caps. There is one each, on the right and left side. These will leak!! ASK ME HOW I KNOW .
Valid point, most ohc engines have these seals in the back, and no, I don’t ever remember seeing them come with the valve cover set. After thought is to stop least reseal them. But yeah, do it right and replace them. :)
Nice video , but I would have changed the cam seals since the valve covers were off .
Thank you very much for your excellent tutorial I appreciate it you nice job thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
Thank you for the vid. Very informative.
Thanks for this. Nicely done !
Like your timing chain bracelet.
Great video. Did the valve cover gaskets and the timing belt on my 97 4runner 3.4. Learned much in the process. Do you have any pointers or tricks to deal with stuck/seized bolts?I'm sure that you run into that often. It will turn a 20 minute job into a half of a day mess. Keep going with the great vids. Thanks.
There are a couple/few tricks, depending on the materials you are working with. In respect to the Prius hub video I made, steel bolts through corroded aluminum is a horrible thing. That’s the number one day killer in my opinion.
There isn’t really anything you can do as far as penetrant or heat that will help, so a bigger hammer is sufficient.
Heat works well, depending again on the materials involved. It will help wick penetrating oil, and I only recommend “free all” penetrating oil.
But one of the most important things I’ve learned about stuck and rusty bolts (from an 89 year old machinist) is, if it feels like it’s going to break, it will..
Loosen it up a half turn, then tighten it back, and forth, and back, and so on, an so forth. Add some penetrant, and be PATIENT. You can spend 20 minutes sanding a bolt out this way, or an hour trying to drill it out and chasing threads because you thought it just needed a little more force to “break it free”
Thank you very much for your excellent tutorial,good job!!!
Is that one of the reasons you don't use impacts and etc? You have a better feel by hand . It's amazing that you don't use any power tools and still be efficient enough to get your jobs done. It would be very difficult for me to give up all my power stuff. Thanks !
In a shop environment I would definitely use some power tools, having the room for a compressor and a cart of heavy air tools. But, I actually downsized from my last truck, and focus more on emergency type repairs and diagnostics. I can still pull an engine and drop a transmission, but I prefer not to if I don’t have to.
There are numerous reasons I prefer hand tools, but I still have a grinder and sawzall and impact gun if needed.
I just replaced the ones on my tundra, not long ago.
I have to do this job soon. Let me know if I’ve missed anything in the parts list
- full gasket set for inlet manifold
- rocker cover gaskets
- spark plug seals
- rubber washers that hold down the rocker covers.
- new spark plugs
Should I expect to need any special tools?
I believe you don't need the full intake manifold set, just the upper portion (much cheaper)
you may be able to clean the half moons if they're not leaking, same thing for the cam covers
If your willing to use a bunch of silicone, on your own vehicle, yes.
This was a customers, so all new gaskets it is.
My Toyota Dealership here in Beaverton Oregon wants $2100 to replace them...I said no...and I put quarts of oil in every month..lol
Nice video thanks
Wow you still have factory radiator!
Let's hope he wasn't at risk of the pink milkshake of death (or has a manual like my 3rd gen).
That radiator is very suspect. When the tanks turn brown on those it's just a matter time till they start leaking.
How much would a job like this cost ? Head gasket seal replacement
Awesome video thanks help alot on fixing my 4runner
You have forgotten to disconnect the battery negative! JOJO So next time you don't forget it! thanks for the video, it was very good ! Is a 9 of 10 !
Lol. I don’t disconnect the battery when I do starters or alternators either. :)
@@MechanicalTriage What year is the 4Runner?
I have 2010 4Runner & took my card to toyota dealership I was told the car needs gasket replacement & prices are ridiculous
@@Dallas214- valve cover gasket or head gaskets? I only ask cause you say the price was ridiculous.
The one in the video is a 2002, with a 3.4 liter engine. Yours is a 4.0 liter engine.
Approximately a 3 hour job. I would estimate the shop price to be about $700
@@MechanicalTriage it is timing cover gasket, front Main, Valve Cover FIPG coolant.
I realized there was something wrong with my car, because of the oil leak but the weird part no maintenance light ever came on.
Nice job
Loved the video! But the music is unnecessarily loud 😢
Sorry, was one of my first videos. I’m learning.
@@MechanicalTriage we all are! Thanks for the great content anyways.
The cheapest parts cause the biggest problems. My pcv valve broke, in the process of getting it out, the petrified rubber grommet broke in half and fell into the valve cover.
I would probably just leave it, it’ll find it’s way to the oil pan eventually. Now if you lost chunks of plastic, might warrant removing the valve cover.
Very well explained step by step thanks buddy how long did it take for both sides if u mind me askin?
About 3 hours, because i was filming. 2.5 if your on top of everything.
Not bad i appreciate your help anymore videos comin up for this first gen tacoma i love these trucks they last for ever!
It’s seems to be a popular video, although I haven’t watched it lately. Lol
I can definitely make it a point to get some more work on one.
Lookin foward i did subscribe to your channel thanks i will be wrkn on my 🌮 ma this weekend thanks for your help bud!
is there supposed to be a tiny gap after torquing down the valve cover bolts? I have roughly an 1/8 all the way around the cover and the mating surface. All bolts are tight and it feels like it won't leak but want to be sure before I go any further. thanks
Yes, there should be.
The gasket lets the valve cover “float”. And the gasket should be smashed evenly around the cover.
Take a mirror around the valve cover edges and confirm the gasket is in place, and there are no openings.
@@MechanicalTriage thanks!
Should’ve just resealed the half moons and purchased new plugs as a preventative maintenance
Been three years, still runs great with ZERO leaks
@@MechanicalTriage I just did mine hope mine lasts as long !
Fantastic
Thanks, Gad bless You .
I had a buddy do a job for me with this vehicle and now there’s coolant in the cam 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤮 he was a new guy at the shop. Any reasons why?
What job did he do? Also, please clarify “coolant in the cam”.
Should I Use any special RTV for this? Like the red high heat stuff? Or does it matter
If you use any kind of RTV, at ALL, I would use the “right stuff” (one minute gasket). I use it across the board for coolant, oil pans, transmissions, and differentials.
Nicely done
What were the names of those last 2 gaskets u put on from the block to the manifold to the top part of the the manifold
Intake manifold gaskets
Upper and lower plenum gasket.
Hey, thank you so much!
I will be doing the same today
By the way, where did you get your metal bracelet?, looks nice!
Timing chain from a 2010 Audi A4
Awesome vid!
Nice job 👍 👍
Ok so I have a p0300 code random misfires with following p0301,02,03,04,06 on a 97 4 runner and a I recently changed spark plugs coils cables and 2 air hoses I also resealed my coil canister bcs it was leaking air from the bottom, it can't be anything fuel as the pump filter and other stuff are new on that side I have given it a compression test but I am honestly thinking it's the fuel injectors although the car runs great no shaking nothing I'm just not sure how I could test my theory without taking my whole engine bay apart like u was wondering if you could give me any tips on this random misfire not sure what it could be just guessing
It’s possible it has a clogged catalytic converter that is causing back pressure, or the injectors are over/under fueling because of a dirty maf sensor or oxygen sensor.
Hey man,
Can I ask - did you do the FRONT camshaft plugs as well? Or just the rear ones? The one one the front passenger side seems impossible to get out (due to clearance from the radiator mount in front of it). Just curious if you did the front ones as well, and if you didn't - was it for the same reason, or some other reason?
Anyone here have a response? Thanks!
Front seals would require removal of the timing belt and cam sprockets. Not on this job.
@@MechanicalTriage Thank you!. That helps a ton.
That makes sense, and makes me feel better, as I was really struggling to see how to get in there with the timing belt bracket/backside there impacting the access of the actual plug itself. Thank you again for your quick reply and info!
You have a list of sockets and tools used ??
Sorry, not at this point. That was a couple years ago. I will start putting tools aside when I do jobs from now on and sum it up at the beginning of my videos.
Sorry
@@MechanicalTriage No problem man, good video. I use those dishwashing gloves also last way longer than others and there cheap.
do you have a tutorial on how to replace a 2001 tacoma 3.4L thermostat
I do not have enough tutorials yet, this is just a beginning to this new playlist.
I found this, it may help in your situation.
ua-cam.com/video/nTw_u396O5o/v-deo.html
I would say that if you get as far as the thermostat to go ahead and replace the timing belt and what ever goes along with it.
Hey friend , didn't you install the spark plug tube gaskets backwards??
No, that’s how they go in.
On every car, that I’ve ever worked on.
For 17 years.
Then I`ve been doing it wrong
@@MechanicalTriage Installing gaskets
Need a radiator
Got an estimate for how much a mechanic will charge for this job?
It really depends on what area you are in. Where I am located, and within 20 miles of me, the cost for this job could vary from $300 to $700. It depends on the mechanic you hire, and what people in the area you are in are willing to pay for mobile services.
You forgot the cam shaft seals.
Your right.. and it bit me in the ass two years later.. but its ok, i had to do a complete service on it again anyway cause the flex plate broke..
Did you torque anything ?
On this job, no.
I’ve been doing this sooooo long, that I usually only torque rod bearings, mains, cams, and head bolts.. this vehicle repair has not had an issue since I worked on it
@@MechanicalTriage The reason I asked is because I always worry about over tightening, especially when rubber parts or gaskets are involved. Not having your experience, I was just wondering if it was a good idea for someone like me to torque on a job like this. Thanks.
I do recommend torquing to proper specs whenever possible. Being even and consistent is key. I have learned many a time what “too tight” looks like. ;)
Please note that, during the motorcycle engine build, cb750k, I followed torque specs on 99% of all the engine bolts. Being my first full motorcycle engine build, I didn’t have any recourse for broken or warped parts.
Have you got a parts list with links?
I do not, there are a couple variants so pulling the parts list from your vin is best.
what part number was the intake gasket? i couldn’t find any
There are a couple different variants. What year? 2 or 4 wheel? Trim?
looks like the same as yours it’s a 99 prerunner, 3.4 6cylinder and rwd
Felpro gasket set VS50422R
Idk if i trust myself to do this
If your concerned, you’ll probably run into something that makes you call a mechanic, and you’ll lose a day with your rig. Best bet, call someone In to do it for ya, and spend your time perfecting your craft to make your skills better in whatever your a specialist in. :)
I have the same engine I wan to order it from amazon what is the gasket cover number please
Felpro VS50422R
@@MechanicalTriage thank you
@Holy Smoke thank you
To check for vacuum leaks.
After removing the intake and reinstalling it, I wanted to make sure there were no vacuum leaks in either the intake gasket or any vacuum lines.
Brake clean is VERY flammable, and will make the rpms change if sucked into the intake.
I wasn’t familiar with the method to check for vacuum leaks. Thanks. (Also: how did I not know this???)
This video explains in more detail. Starter fluid might be a better option over brake cleaner.
ua-cam.com/video/UL9NqqZToJs/v-deo.html
It’s a dangerous method. But, an alternative to not having a smoke machine sometimes.
Dealer want 500 dollars to do this for me...
Amazing