HDBaseT Best Practice Termination - Shielded RJ45 on CAT6A F/UTP Category cable
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- LibAV's Product Solution Engineer, Ralph Parret, demonstrates how to properly terminate a shielded RJ45 connector onto a CAT6A F/UTP category cable for use with HDBaseT systems.
For a full list of features and information on the RJ45-STP-L5E and the RJ45-STP-L6 visit:
RJ45-STP-L5E: secure.liberty...
RJ45-STP-L6: secure.liberty...
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Little trick of the trade, when straightening out the wires to be as straight as possible, take your trusty Extron screwdriver and grab each individual wire and run it out, much like you ran ribbon across scissors when you were a kid to make the ribbon coil. Well, do the same with your Extron screwdriver and they'll be as straight as an arrow.
First of all, you are the Jesus of data cable sir. All hail! Couple things...
1) What is the shrink tubing size?
2) Crimper P/N?
3) Does the crimper have the ability to crimp the strain relief as well?
Hi Jesse ;) we're right with you, Ralph is the man! Here is his answer: The Shrink Tubing is ½” 3:1 shrink ratio. The Crimper part number is 100054LW and it does not have a strain relief crimp option. We do have another tool, (item # 12360C), that crimps the strain relief.
FYI, you might encounter split pairs caused by this method. The added layer of copper tape thickens the overall diameter which then requires one to squeeze the cable to make it fit into the connector. This squeezing no matter how careful can cause the blue and green pairs to carve into each other and cause split pairs.
Thank you for your comment. While this is a common method and we haven’t experienced this with our terminations, we’re sure our audience would welcome your tips on how to avoid this in terminations. Please feel free to share!
Thank you and appreciate the time taken to make this video.
The only thing I'm missing with this technique is a boot lip that protects the clip of the rj45 connector from snapping off.
I need to carry these cables to a different location to run HDMI over long runs, and the clips are the first thing that break. Any suggestions?
Thanks
This technique can be utilized with a boot, instead of running the shrink tubing up and over the connector, use a shorter piece (cut in ½) and only slide it up and against the back of the connector. Then when prepping, slide the appropriately sized snagless boot (8~8.5mm OD for Cat6A shielded) up the cable first before sliding up the shrink tubing. Complete the termination, including the shrink tubing and then slide the boot up and over the connector. This may be a little tight over the shrink tubing OD but that will help hold the boot in place. Also don’t do it when the shrink is still very warm - as it may bunch up like an accordion because it is still flexible. Let it cool a bit before sliding the boot fully up.
Only terminate one side of the shielded cable. You will hear people claim it doesn't matter if you shield both or one side and they'll post supporting tests that show there is no difference, but those tests are flawed in that the grounding on either end of the cable is the same ground potential and therefore virtually same ground plane, so of course there's no difference. The failure in shielded cables that are grounded at both ends will show up only if the is a difference in ground potentials of the end points, in which case your shield actually becomes an antenna and attracts interference, rather than shielding against interference.
This is absolutely bad advice.
Always shield both ends.
Think there might be a ground potential difference? Check it with a multi meter. If you do have a ground potential difference simply use an unshielded patch cable.
Untwisting at 4:15. The best way to remove the "convolutions" as he says at 4:42, is to hold the pair tightly together as you untwist it. That way, you separate the individual cores of the pair AND remove those little bumps all in one go. "This is probably the longest part of the entire termination...", well my method speeds that up a lot, particularly when it comes to trying to insert the cores into the little guide piece (load bar) of a 2-part connector.
Great feedback! :)
Годный канал. Лайк.
Very clear presentation, thank you. I have 2 questions; 1) Can I run a cable like this from an HDbaseT matrix switcher to a keystone jack? (will use certified patch cable from jack to receiver), and 2) Would I need to use this technique on both ends of cable? (switcher and keystone jack ends. in other words, do i need to connect shield to ground on both ends?) Any help is appreciated.
Hello Jon,
Yes you can, however the keystone jack does need to be shielded and the patch cable on the far side should be as short as possible and ensure it is at least 24 AWG, some Cat6 shielded patch cables are 26 AWG and this can cause attenuation issues. You do need to follow the same technique on both sides, the ground must be continuous in the circuit.
Thank you for the prompt reply. I am still confused by one thing...grounding. The video shows correct termination (best practice) for a shielded cable. I do plan on doing that on both ends. I plan to only ground (6 AWG ground wire to main ground) at the patch panel. Do I need to also ground the junction box that contains the keystone jack or is the properly terminated cable in conjuction with the proper jack sufficient if the patch panel is grounded?
You would not need to ground the junction box, the ground at the patch panel is correct and all that is needed. The proper cable and jack is sufficient.
Thanks again. Subscribed.
why didnt you crimp the metal strain releif?
Hello! Thank you for your question - The strain relief is made from very flimsy metal, you can crimp it with a special tool but it will still loosen back up immediately with normal flexing. We recommend applying the 3:1 shrink tubing as an anchor that holds that strain relief tightly against the copper tape and ensures a much stronger strain relief - better than any boot for that series.
Please let us know if you have any additional questions.
did i miss color coding and which color goes where inside the connector?
Between 5:10 and 5:40, Ralph goes into it in a little more detail. Does that help?
use a proper boot. heatshrink risks damage to the cable due to heat.
Probably not necessary but I solder the drain wire to the tang on the back of the connector as an extra measure before forming it around the wire. I feel this makes an unquestionable electrical bond to the connector body.
Sounds like the best option (if you can do it). I got some 3m 1181, and the adhesive on it does not seem to be conductive as claimed. I’m 99% sure it’s real (has proper 3m markings and everything). But I tested it with a multimeter, and the signal didn’t want to go from the adhesive side to the copper side.
❤What is the engineer's name?
Are you recommending this on both ends? Typically we are told to only connect the drain on one end.
Yes, you should have it shielded on both ends.
No. Don't ground both ends. It leaves you vulnerable to interference if there are any site grounding issues, such as differential ground planes.
Why do you bother to put out a video and links to your company if you don't allow the public to order anything from you?
Thank you for your interest in our products! We direct to our site to provide more information, however if you are looking to purchase, please visit B&H Photo bhphotovideo.com or Full Compass fullcompass.com. Both Distributors will be happy to assist you with purchasing any of our products, and their customer service team will help you place the order if you have any trouble finding what you’re looking for.
Went to both their sites couldn't find any of your products.