I did the job today and everything was just as your video shows. The hardest part on my car was to lose the sway bar bolts. They were quite tight. Thanks!
Thanks for this, I had to do this as I just couldn't get enough strength to undo the rear bolt. To get the bracket back in place I used a woodworking clamp and tightened it back down enough to drop the bolt back in.
Just wanted to say thanks for the video, just put my new bushings in yesterday and the car feels new compared to before. Appreciate having the videos available to fix my car. I did need to turn the steering wheel slightly to get the steering linkage to clear the body of the car, as well as use a prybar on the subframe to get it seat back where it was. You can do it on jack stands, not as fun though.
Thank you. Great video, just what I was looking for. Making sure vehicle is secure on jacks before. Extra safety is to stack both front wheels under oil and transmission if it fell with boards.
Struggling to get the leverage to undo the bolts on the bracket clamping down the bushing. I’ve got an 18mm spanner on it but it’s just not long enough to get the power I need! Might have to invest in a breaker bar or something!
Just as an update for anyone else that is as unfortunate as me with their mini… here’s a tale of my saga and how I overcame it! I did the steps in this video and although it dropped the subframe it didn’t quite drop it enough for me to gain access. So because I didn’t have a lot of time I took it to a local garage who then couldn’t remove the subframe because two bolts were spinning. They recommended taking it to mini or a mini specialist both of which quoted me around £1000 just to sort out the two bolts… 🤮 What I did instead was remove the wheels, suspension struts, brake callipers and drop links. From there I was able to get a breaker bar/ratchet into the wheel arch and loosen/remove the bolt you can see from the outside. I’ll note that on the drivers side (UK) I needed to switch between a 6 and 12 point socket to get the right angle for leverage on the drivers side which was slow but eventually got it out. Once one bolt had been removed from each, I bent the bracket upwards to give enough room to knock the bushes out. I then slid the new bushes onto the anti roll / sway bar and manoeuvred them into place. From there I bent the bracket back down and replaced the bolt and everything else. Hope this helps someone else with this job that is definitely a lot harder than it sounds! 🤞
A good video. Many Owners replace the roll bar and rear control arm bolts with longer ones after drilling out the threads in the sub-frame. That way you can push the bolt up from the bottom and secure with a nut. Making replacement in the future far easier. I've started replacing all the bushes on these as it's just easier to do everything then just the bushing that need repalcement. After all you are already into the workings, ya might as well do it all in one go.
Thanks for doin this video! this will help me get a head start on a cooper haven't mess with them and the costumer wants to upgrade their suspension and it includes sway bar.
Well done on providing this video ... my 2009 R57 Cooper S has been 'clunking' for a few months now. Your video has given me the confidence to tackle the job when the British weather gets a bit warmer. Just a quick question ... would it not be better just to loosen the steering shaft link (in the footwell) which should allow just a little bit more movement when dropping the subframe?
I ended up having to drop the subframe completely the bolts where just too dang tight! Probably adds an extra 2-3hr’s. So definitely try this way first
Hi. I tried it but I failed. The 4 sway bar bolts were impossible to loose. You mention you must have heated them up. What kind of heating, like a gas torch? Is it safe to do it on a car?
Hello, sorry to hear that. They're a pain!. If you're not familiar at all with using the torch, I would NOT recommend you do it. If you're still want to try. Do it at your own discretion and risk please. Map gas ( yellow bottle and a torch) you can get them at Home Depot. You should grab a fire extinguisher while you're there. I always do. The flame plus heat wave is about 12 inches. Make sure you have enough room behind the flame. No plastic or rubber near or directly onto the flame! Metal should be ok, so be very conscious of the flame direction and what's behind it as well as what is flammable and prompt to catch on fire. Heat for about 4 mins and go directly to try losing it. Point towards the part that hosts the bolt. It will be hot. Use gloves. Remember. You're trying to melt the thread lock they may have put and also make the metal expand Good luck!
Thanks Mike! There's really not a lot of tools required for this job. If you like to get dirty fixing your car, building your tool box set is an investment that could help you on your next fix. But if I can help I'm in Dallas. Very limited time though. Good luck!!
@@Mrmorzun I do not have a jack/lift like the one you have, but the others tools. I will contact some mechanic in the area, to lift the car. by the way I am in California.. Thank again
Hey I see you have a shop; did you to see if a speciality wrench where it bends? Because I need to my bushings but A.) don’t have a lift so really can’t drop the frame B.) shops charge too high around here
Hello, nice video. Do you know why there are these metal « rounds » (don’t know the English term) you can see at 6:19 just under the bolt on one side only but not on the other side? Thank you.
Hi, thank you for your comment. I believe you're referring to the washer. and not I'm not sure. I don't remember seeing the difference. I'll try checking that. Those washers, [ round metal plates inside the bolt,] are fixed into the bolt. the wont come out. so, if they wanted one there, they would of put one on the other side. It maybe that the frame is build not to need it. I'll try checking
@@mrmoreno4640 Yes, the washers ! 😅 Because when I disassembled the frame last time, I tried to not put it back because it felt strange to me they would be on one side only… But after putting it back together, I could hear the characteristic sound of the sway bar knocking so I guess they are necessary and installed from factory to compensate for a slight twist in the chassis maybe ? 🤔 Anyway thank you, I will test to hear if the sound is still there after putting the washers back on it.
Yes it solved the problem. Usually the symptoms for a bad sway bar bushings is a clunking sound when you pass a bump typically on a smooth road between 10-30 mph. Not a metal sound. Good luck
Would it be possible to loosen the four swaybar bolts just maybe an inch or so, enough to lift the bracket and slide the rubber bushing out? Then slide new bushing in and tighten down?
Not sure if I understood. The sway bar has two inner brackets with hardly any room to loosen them up. The idea of partially dropping the sub frame is to get to those bolts.
Honest to god, that bolt could have been designed to go in from under, and then the brackets that hold the bushing could have a welded nut on top, making it possible to take them bolts from underneath. But hey, your BMW philosophy at play here with stupid engineering that ends up costing 8 - 10 times more in labour.
I did the job today and everything was just as your video shows. The hardest part on my car was to lose the sway bar bolts. They were quite tight. Thanks!
Yup, just like I struggle braking them loose. It seems they like to play hard to catch!!
Great job. I'm glad it was helpful!!
Just a tip...if the bush rear bolt is seized..remove one 18mm bolt and bend bush bracket up and install bush...bend bracket back and rebolt.
I can only reach one bolt really and that’s seized or I just can’t get enough leverage with my spanner! 😩
Thanks for this, I had to do this as I just couldn't get enough strength to undo the rear bolt.
To get the bracket back in place I used a woodworking clamp and tightened it back down enough to drop the bolt back in.
Just wanted to say thanks for the video, just put my new bushings in yesterday and the car feels new compared to before. Appreciate having the videos available to fix my car. I did need to turn the steering wheel slightly to get the steering linkage to clear the body of the car, as well as use a prybar on the subframe to get it seat back where it was. You can do it on jack stands, not as fun though.
Thank you. Great video, just what I was looking for. Making sure vehicle is secure on jacks before. Extra safety is to stack both front wheels under oil and transmission if it fell with boards.
I’m going to give this a go after my MOT failed because of those bushings! Feel a bit more confident about it after watching this video. Wish me luck!
You can do it!!
Struggling to get the leverage to undo the bolts on the bracket clamping down the bushing. I’ve got an 18mm spanner on it but it’s just not long enough to get the power I need! Might have to invest in a breaker bar or something!
Just as an update for anyone else that is as unfortunate as me with their mini… here’s a tale of my saga and how I overcame it!
I did the steps in this video and although it dropped the subframe it didn’t quite drop it enough for me to gain access. So because I didn’t have a lot of time I took it to a local garage who then couldn’t remove the subframe because two bolts were spinning. They recommended taking it to mini or a mini specialist both of which quoted me around £1000 just to sort out the two bolts… 🤮
What I did instead was remove the wheels, suspension struts, brake callipers and drop links. From there I was able to get a breaker bar/ratchet into the wheel arch and loosen/remove the bolt you can see from the outside. I’ll note that on the drivers side (UK) I needed to switch between a 6 and 12 point socket to get the right angle for leverage on the drivers side which was slow but eventually got it out. Once one bolt had been removed from each, I bent the bracket upwards to give enough room to knock the bushes out. I then slid the new bushes onto the anti roll / sway bar and manoeuvred them into place. From there I bent the bracket back down and replaced the bolt and everything else.
Hope this helps someone else with this job that is definitely a lot harder than it sounds! 🤞
@@liampaddick2242 auch!! I need pain meds after reading all this. Sorry you had to go through this.
@@liampaddick2242I’m doing this job next week, I’m changing the suspension too so handy to know that helps.
Thanks for the tip 👍🏻
A good video. Many Owners replace the roll bar and rear control arm bolts with longer ones after drilling out the threads in the sub-frame. That way you can push the bolt up from the bottom and secure with a nut. Making replacement in the future far easier. I've started replacing all the bushes on these as it's just easier to do everything then just the bushing that need repalcement. After all you are already into the workings, ya might as well do it all in one go.
Thanks for your input budy!
Thanks for doin this video! this will help me get a head start on a cooper haven't mess with them and the costumer wants to upgrade their suspension and it includes sway bar.
Glad I was able to help🙂!
Terrific video...... Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
thanks from Brazil!! Avanti PAlestra!!!
Nice,simple and easy to follow video! Thanks!
hope it helped!!
@@mrmoreno4640 I’m waiting on parts but it should since everything was quite clear on the video. Thanks.
@@leslievazquez2651 good luck!!
Thank you for your video, can the complete lower control arms be removed using this method without having to lower the exhaust etc?
Just a note to anyone doing this: the passenger side sway bar bushing bolts are very close to fuel lines, so be careful if heating up the bolts.
Very good point! Thanks!!
Thanks well explained and executed.
Thank you sir!!
Well done on providing this video ... my 2009 R57 Cooper S has been 'clunking' for a few months now. Your video has given me the confidence to tackle the job when the British weather gets a bit warmer. Just a quick question ... would it not be better just to loosen the steering shaft link (in the footwell) which should allow just a little bit more movement when dropping the subframe?
You go!!!
That is very helpful thank you for the video now i know how to do this job on my cooper the rear was easy the front looks a bit tougher.
Glad it was helpful!!
I ended up having to drop the subframe completely the bolts where just too dang tight!
Probably adds an extra 2-3hr’s.
So definitely try this way first
Sorry to hear that😢
Hi. I tried it but I failed. The 4 sway bar bolts were impossible to loose. You mention you must have heated them up. What kind of heating, like a gas torch? Is it safe to do it on a car?
Hello, sorry to hear that. They're a pain!.
If you're not familiar at all with using the torch, I would NOT recommend you do it. If you're still want to try. Do it at your own discretion and risk please.
Map gas ( yellow bottle and a torch) you can get them at Home Depot. You should grab a fire extinguisher while you're there. I always do. The flame plus heat wave is about 12 inches. Make sure you have enough room behind the flame. No plastic or rubber near or directly onto the flame! Metal should be ok, so be very conscious of the flame direction and what's behind it as well as what is flammable and prompt to catch on fire. Heat for about 4 mins and go directly to try losing it. Point towards the part that hosts the bolt. It will be hot. Use gloves. Remember. You're trying to melt the thread lock they may have put and also make the metal expand
Good luck!
The sway bar bracket bolts are torqued to 170NM, hence very hard to un-do.
That's a very important note to add. Thanks!!
Great video !! and explanation !!
I don't have the tools to do it and I love to do it.
were are you located ?
Thanks Mike! There's really not a lot of tools required for this job. If you like to get dirty fixing your car, building your tool box set is an investment that could help you on your next fix. But if I can help I'm in Dallas. Very limited time though. Good luck!!
@@Mrmorzun I do not have a jack/lift like the one you have, but the others tools. I will contact some mechanic in the area, to lift the car. by the way I am in California.. Thank again
Hope you get it solved!!
Great Job , will it be the same for 2009 S R57?
Thanks for your comment. I'm really not sure. Sorry 😞
Yes it's the same
Hey I see you have a shop; did you to see if a speciality wrench where it bends? Because I need to my bushings but A.) don’t have a lift so really can’t drop the frame B.) shops charge too high around here
Hello, nice video.
Do you know why there are these metal « rounds » (don’t know the English term) you can see at 6:19 just under the bolt on one side only but not on the other side?
Thank you.
Hi, thank you for your comment. I believe you're referring to the washer. and not I'm not sure. I don't remember seeing the difference. I'll try checking that. Those washers, [ round metal plates inside the bolt,] are fixed into the bolt. the wont come out. so, if they wanted one there, they would of put one on the other side. It maybe that the frame is build not to need it. I'll try checking
@@mrmoreno4640 Yes, the washers ! 😅 Because when I disassembled the frame last time, I tried to not put it back because it felt strange to me they would be on one side only… But after putting it back together, I could hear the characteristic sound of the sway bar knocking so I guess they are necessary and installed from factory to compensate for a slight twist in the chassis maybe ? 🤔
Anyway thank you, I will test to hear if the sound is still there after putting the washers back on it.
Thank you for this video
Glad it helped you!!
Did this solve the noise problem?
Yes it solved the problem. Usually the symptoms for a bad sway bar bushings is a clunking sound when you pass a bump typically on a smooth road between 10-30 mph. Not a metal sound.
Good luck
@@Mrmorzun Yep, I've had this noise for some time now and I just ordered it last night. Thank you.
Can also can remove radius arm as well so many other videos say you must remove the whole subframe not necessarily. Great video very helpful Thanks.
Thank you for video
Would it be possible to loosen the four swaybar bolts just maybe an inch or so, enough to lift the bracket and slide the rubber bushing out? Then slide new bushing in and tighten down?
Not sure if I understood. The sway bar has two inner brackets with hardly any room to loosen them up. The idea of partially dropping the sub frame is to get to those bolts.
Nightmair!
Okay. Any one in South Carolina with a lift in there garage that’s willing to help me
Honest to god, that bolt could have been designed to go in from under, and then the brackets that hold the bushing could have a welded nut on top, making it possible to take them bolts from underneath.
But hey, your BMW philosophy at play here with stupid engineering that ends up costing 8 - 10 times more in labour.
Engineers seem to be competing for the hardest way to repair their designs. I'm working on a chevy 2.7 and it doesn't get any better.