Now, please make a kit to convert ‘56-‘65 MoPar push button dash control pods from mechanical to electrical to shift ‘67 and newer 727 and 904 transmissions, so I can still use my factory (appearing) dash pushbuttons to control a newer 904?
Is there a system simular to this but has a shifter set up like a newer car that has a plus and minus for a gear? Like P R D +- .....I still like the feel and look of the actual shifter
Several shops to buy from.. Depends on what US coast you're on, or if you're overseas - www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com/Performance_Aftermarket/Dealers/
I'm not familiar with this particular system, but I've dealt with some noise issues in the past and I know some ignition systems do put out a fair amount of radio noise. First thing: know what your power supply for shifter wiring is run next to and get it away from ignition control wires which are notorious for seeing coil noise. Running perpendicular to other wires in tight spaces can work wonders where you cant get even a foot of separation and is best bet under the dash. Looming everything in together looks nice, but sometimes just doesn't work. I'm guessing this system demands to only be active with ignition on, so if you aren't using a power relay to avoid sharing current paths you might add one. Second is a subtle thing, but can add greatly to noise cancellation without putting in any filters. Do not use the nearest chassis point for return [wherever box is installed], but instead terminate near the fusebox [assuming that's where you tied in for power], and run the (-) the same route as your (+) - but twist those two wires together before running them. 6 to 8 twists per foot should do fine. This will cause fields to induce near identical voltages each wire, which nets out to almost nothing as seen by your electronics. Alternatively if you choose to use twisted shielded pair manufactured cable to serve power, do not land that un-insulated drain wire on both ends. You need to tape off or heatshrink one end and land the other at nearest chassis point - it must NOT be serving any power needs, but acts as an antenna to reduce noise seen on the pair inside.
Now, please make a kit to convert ‘56-‘65 MoPar push button dash control pods from mechanical to electrical to shift ‘67 and newer 727 and 904 transmissions, so I can still use my factory (appearing) dash pushbuttons to control a newer 904?
Is there a system simular to this but has a shifter set up like a newer car that has a plus and minus for a gear? Like P R D +- .....I still like the feel and look of the actual shifter
Can also use for gatetype shift??
I missy 63 dodge cart with slant 6 and push button transmission.
didn't hear anything about auto rev matching either
Joe Figueroa 😂🤟🏻
New trans, 2500. The cost of this item 1800. Please take 800 bucks off. It's a bit pricey.
How much power can it handle
Depends on the transmission since that is what actually handles the torque of the engine. This just shifts the gears electronically.
How much power can it handle? Probably 12 volts.. 😅
8 SPEED HELLCAT TRANS?
Where to buy??
Several shops to buy from.. Depends on what US coast you're on, or if you're overseas - www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com/Performance_Aftermarket/Dealers/
$1,300.00 RIDICULOUS!!!
watergate528 if you're poor
Make something then
@@zachkuby87 is it work for dsg dq250
Big money and I didn't hear anything about REVERSE LOCK OUT..
Steve 1961P. It has a reverse lockout
Mine just gives alot of wireless errors and lots of missed shifts, useless so far, dont buy a PCS system
Julie Miller probably user error
I'm not familiar with this particular system, but I've dealt with some noise issues in the past and I know some ignition systems do put out a fair amount of radio noise. First thing: know what your power supply for shifter wiring is run next to and get it away from ignition control wires which are notorious for seeing coil noise. Running perpendicular to other wires in tight spaces can work wonders where you cant get even a foot of separation and is best bet under the dash. Looming everything in together looks nice, but sometimes just doesn't work. I'm guessing this system demands to only be active with ignition on, so if you aren't using a power relay to avoid sharing current paths you might add one. Second is a subtle thing, but can add greatly to noise cancellation without putting in any filters. Do not use the nearest chassis point for return [wherever box is installed], but instead terminate near the fusebox [assuming that's where you tied in for power], and run the (-) the same route as your (+) - but twist those two wires together before running them. 6 to 8 twists per foot should do fine. This will cause fields to induce near identical voltages each wire, which nets out to almost nothing as seen by your electronics. Alternatively if you choose to use twisted shielded pair manufactured cable to serve power, do not land that un-insulated drain wire on both ends. You need to tape off or heatshrink one end and land the other at nearest chassis point - it must NOT be serving any power needs, but acts as an antenna to reduce noise seen on the pair inside.
Yeah this is a screw job.