25:16: I don't think the purpose of the shims is to allow the cotter-pin to line up with the hole in the castle nut - it's to ensure that there is the correct 2-4 thou of end-float for the wheel bearings once the castle nut has been snugged to the correct torque range - so the bearings don't bind up when everything gets warmed up in operation.
Dr D, please continue with what you are doing. Lot of us. are working on our MGB’s and are trying to do our best to keep our toys on the road with very little mechanical knowledge. We are all learning from watching you. Thank you so much
I hate to mention, but the springs that hold the brake pads in were installed upside down in your video. The longer tangs face inwards to align the pads. I also find a dab of antiseize on the contact surface between the springs and pads helps keep them moving freely, but they rust away to nothing within a few years in any case.
naval jelly is practically the same as wd 40 rust remover. both have the same active ingredient: phosphoric acid and probably says so on the containers of both products. it's been around for a century and can be thinned with water to a consistency of the WD 40 product. i wouldn't be surprised if when watered down it cost half the price of the WD product by volume and effectivity.
Your next two tools should be a bench grinder with a wire wheel, and a vise, both bolted to a nice sturdy bench. So much easier to just power the rust off with a wire wheel, then put the hub in a vise so you don't have to hold it.
superlukage have those, but each, is mounted on sturdy piece of wood, so can move around, and use regular furniture clamps to steady them on the workbench😊
I am restoring a 1958 MGA and just bought new rotors and now I found that I have about .010" run out on the assembled rotors. Any videos I need to see or advice as I proceed?
Another great video in the series! Question: Do the metal brake lines (the ones you did not replace yet that run the span of the chassis) need to be cleaned out? Brake fluid absorbs water and is compromised after about two years. So one does not want this residue in the lines. (Similar goes for the fuel lines from pump to filter.) How do you clean these brake lines? Spraying liberal amounts of brake clean through the lines till then run clean? Thanks! Oh, one more question: How did you free the rear axle? It was frozen when you pulled the car from its 30-year grave. (Did I miss a video?)
Hi! To clean brake lines, the best way is to blow air through them with an air compressor. That should clear them. I did free the rear drums in one of my videos called “getting the MGB to roll” to do so, I had to turn a drum adjuster dial so that the brake shoes would back off from the drum. This dial is shaped like a 1/4 inch square and sticks out from behind the drum brakes near the top.
25:16: I don't think the purpose of the shims is to allow the cotter-pin to line up with the hole in the castle nut - it's to ensure that there is the correct 2-4 thou of end-float for the wheel bearings once the castle nut has been snugged to the correct torque range - so the bearings don't bind up when everything gets warmed up in operation.
Great video fellow MGB owner.
Love the way you Americans call tightening something up snugging it up..😂
Dr D, please continue with what you are doing. Lot of us. are working on our MGB’s and are trying to do our best to keep our toys on the road with very little mechanical knowledge. We are all learning from watching you. Thank you so much
Will do John! I expect to post a new video within a week!
It's called a bearing race.
Think in replaces the bearing guides, would use a socket, so as to avoid
warping, maybe, w the punch?
Thanks for posting these videos. I’m on a similar journey with a 1975 MGB. 👍
Excellent video - thanks. I have this job to do right now on my ‘77 B
A cotter pin is something you will find on a bicycle pedal crank not on an MGB the pins you refer to are split pins. Great job tho. 👍
This helped me out a great deal (new slotted rotors, pads, calipers and steel braided lines). Thank you!
split pins
The best video ever, look forward to more. Thanks
Thank you. You helped a first timer replace the brakes. Keep up the good content!
Well made and very informative!
Very good video for an amateur nlike me. Thanks
I hate to mention, but the springs that hold the brake pads in were installed upside down in your video. The longer tangs face inwards to align the pads. I also find a dab of antiseize on the contact surface between the springs and pads helps keep them moving freely, but they rust away to nothing within a few years in any case.
naval jelly is practically the same as wd 40 rust remover. both have the same active ingredient: phosphoric acid and probably says so on the containers of both products. it's been around for a century and can be thinned with water to a consistency of the WD 40 product. i wouldn't be surprised if when watered down it cost half the price of the WD product by volume and effectivity.
Your next two tools should be a bench grinder with a wire wheel, and a vise, both bolted to a nice sturdy bench. So much easier to just power the rust off with a wire wheel, then put the hub in a vise so you don't have to hold it.
superlukage have those, but each, is mounted on sturdy piece of wood, so can move around, and use regular furniture clamps to steady them on the workbench😊
I am restoring a 1958 MGA and just bought new rotors and now I found that I have about .010" run out on the assembled rotors. Any videos I need to see or advice as I proceed?
A hydraulic press will do wonders when it comes to pressing bearings and races in out of wheel hubs among other jobs.
Always On the Move a vise works for almost all of those needs, actually, and a couple large sockets to match diameter of bearings.
Another great video in the series! Question: Do the metal brake lines (the ones you did not replace yet that run the span of the chassis) need to be cleaned out? Brake fluid absorbs water and is compromised after about two years. So one does not want this residue in the lines. (Similar goes for the fuel lines from pump to filter.) How do you clean these brake lines? Spraying liberal amounts of brake clean through the lines till then run clean? Thanks! Oh, one more question: How did you free the rear axle? It was frozen when you pulled the car from its 30-year grave. (Did I miss a video?)
Hi! To clean brake lines, the best way is to blow air through them with an air compressor. That should clear them. I did free the rear drums in one of my videos called “getting the MGB to roll” to do so, I had to turn a drum adjuster dial so that the brake shoes would back off from the drum. This dial is shaped like a 1/4 inch square and sticks out from behind the drum brakes near the top.
@@DrDExplainsStuff Thanks so much for taking the time to reply. Wishing you all the best for the restoration. Will be watching.
thats some rusty mgb has it
been in the river?
:) It's old.
Vinegar and salt cheap rust remover leaves it like new.
Wow, that is one rusty MG!
When working with tools, remove jewelry and loose fitting clothes in the work area. Watch and bracelet - REMOVE!!!
Great point!
Obvious comment is that it would have been better to loosen the hub nuts before any other operation.