I have owned my 1978 MGB for approx. 20 years. My husband, who is the car guy, (I only drive them) he has owned many, many US muscle cars. Me...well... I love the uniqueness and style of the MG (s). We have always been in the dark when it comes to my little foreign car and he has been reluctant to tackle all the little problems we have had to deal with. Just wanted you to know how I appreciate all of your videos. My car is now running (smoothly) my brakes are now going to be safe, we've got the distributor cap and plugs wired correctly...well my list goes on. You are my little genie in a bottle... whenever I need a question answered... poof!.... you are there and like magic my car is now running. Thank You!!
Speaking as a mechanic trained 2002 to 2005 (on euro cars).. and still working on cars... Shims... modern cars, high tolerance metals, composite matrials... I was not educated on things such as this... Changing discs and pad is a routine parts swap in 15mins... This information to my generation (as a classic car owner now) is invaluable! Keep them coming! I would love to know what I'm screwing up on my MG.... First job tomorrow...remove front wheels and tighten them nuts!
the rust is no big deal, more importantly is after brake fluid gets to 3% moisture content the boiling point can go down between 25-50% depending on whether it is DOT3 or DOT4! yikes!!
John, I am replacing front 1600 rotors and have .010" run out on the new rotor. The rotor checks flat on a granite surface plate. I would like to see something on how to true this new rotor without machining it. Can I shim one side of the rotor hub connection to fix this? Or is this ok as is?
The brakes on my '79 MGB LE are extremely ineffective. It takes both feet to just slow it down.. Both front calipers have been rebuilt. The master cylinder was reworked by either Apple Hydraulics of a local shop, Brake & Equipment company. It has a SS sleeve. The brake lines are new. The pads are fine. It makes no sense.... I have worked on cars as a mechanic [forever] and on LBC's since 1964... My question is; Anyone out there had a similar problem???
Yes, of course... Turns out, it's the brake pedal... there are at least three.. One for boosted and different years... Ordered up and installed. I'll let you know in the spring....@@jerryp2433
I have owned my 1978 MGB for approx. 20 years. My husband, who is the car guy, (I only drive them) he has owned many, many US muscle cars. Me...well... I love the uniqueness and style of the MG (s). We have always been in the dark when it comes to my little foreign car and he has been reluctant to tackle all the little problems we have had to deal with. Just wanted you to know how I appreciate all of your videos. My car is now running (smoothly) my brakes are now going to be safe, we've got the distributor cap and plugs wired correctly...well my list goes on. You are my little genie in a bottle... whenever I need a question answered... poof!.... you are there and like magic my car is now running. Thank You!!
Speaking as a mechanic trained 2002 to 2005 (on euro cars).. and still working on cars... Shims... modern cars, high tolerance metals, composite matrials... I was not educated on things such as this... Changing discs and pad is a routine parts swap in 15mins... This information to my generation (as a classic car owner now) is invaluable! Keep them coming! I would love to know what I'm screwing up on my MG.... First job tomorrow...remove front wheels and tighten them nuts!
Really useful video, thanks. Hope you are still well after 10 years
Thanks!
the rust is no big deal, more importantly is after brake fluid gets to 3% moisture content the boiling point can go down between 25-50% depending on whether it is DOT3 or DOT4! yikes!!
I wish i could see you in PA!
John, I am replacing front 1600 rotors and have .010" run out on the new rotor. The rotor checks flat on a granite surface plate. I would like to see something on how to true this new rotor without machining it. Can I shim one side of the rotor hub connection to fix this? Or is this ok as is?
The brakes on my '79 MGB LE are extremely ineffective. It takes both feet to just slow it down..
Both front calipers have been rebuilt. The master cylinder was reworked by either Apple Hydraulics of a local shop, Brake & Equipment company. It has a SS sleeve. The brake lines are new. The pads are fine. It makes no sense....
I have worked on cars as a mechanic [forever] and on LBC's since 1964...
My question is; Anyone out there had a similar problem???
Nope. Did you bleed them properly?
Yes, of course... Turns out, it's the brake pedal... there are at least three.. One for boosted and different years... Ordered up and installed. I'll let you know in the spring....@@jerryp2433
great tips sir
How do you change brakes on a 1951 MGTD
I was hoping you did a bit of demo on taking the rotor off but you just talk and talk and talk.....
Maybe try to listen listen listen