Winning Pinewood Derby with 3D Printing
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- Опубліковано 25 січ 2023
- 3D Print your own tools for building a winning pinewood derby car! In this video, we’ll go over the science of Pinewood Derby and how to build a fast car.
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PROJECT FILES
Project Information on AMakerdad: www.amakerdad.com/blog/2023pi...
Onshape CAD: bit.ly/3Htge0B
PrusaSlicer files: bit.ly/406ss6H
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Items for Pinewood Derby (Affiliate Links):
Tungsten weight, COG adjustable: amzn.to/3kESNZn
Tungsten weight, ⅜” cylinder: amzn.to/3J6Osbl
Sandpaper assortment pack: amzn.to/3wrnpzW
Graphite: amzn.to/3HszqvB
For the wheel drilling fixture:
⅛” drill bit: amzn.to/3Jb2rwX
⅛” shank, mm size drill bits: amzn.to/3D99F0L
M3 socket head cap screw assortment: amzn.to/3HoNdTO
For the balancing fixture:
Shinwa 150mm machinist ruler: amzn.to/3HqvPxL
For the drill clamping fixture:
M8 x 150mm threaded rod: amzn.to/3DbHm1z
M8 x 200mm threaded rod: amzn.to/3kCSKx8
M8 assorted hardware: amzn.to/3iXb83a
Other useful tools:
Tamiya Plastic File: amzn.to/3GUVTzO
Super glue: amzn.to/3XKp2Vm
Digital calipers (kid friendly price): amzn.to/3Ja6b1H
Digital calipers (professionally priced): amzn.to/3JdSxKX
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OTHER REFERENCED MEDIA:
ENG Workshop’s video on rail riding: • Build a Winning Pinewo... - Наука та технологія
awesome. thanks for sharing this Info.
Nice job T! Your a natural!
Thanks Greg!
Great video Terence, and good luck on your UA-cam channel!
you can have negative camber with a tow in position and the wheel will never touch the axle head. it must also have a slight toe out position in addition to the negative camber to keep the wheel off the body.
Wow the perks of having an engineer dad! Love the video!
Love watching this with my boys. Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it! :-)
Super cool! My fluid mechanics teacher in undergrad told me that a wedge shaped pinewood derby was actually more aerodynamic backwards than forwards, because at low speeds the wake is actually more important than the front. Any thoughts?
That's interesting! I am not a fluid mechanics guy at all... but from a physics standpoint, running the wedge in reverse, you'd have a hard time shifting the center of mass that far back on the car. In fact, another UA-camr found out by experimentation that to set the center of mass about 20-25mm from the rear axle, your car on average can't be more than 10mm thick. That's why almost all winning cars are basically low to the ground skateboards with weight on the back. By far, the biggest contributor to winning Pinewood Derby - aside from axle and wheel prep, seems to be the placement of the center of mass. I plan on doing a follow up video where I test each of the variables with the scientific method.
so do not bend the rear axles, they need to be 100% parallel and perpendicular with each other and the body. Your are not and its next to impossible to get them this way unless you drill angled holes. your better off leaving them straight vs bending them.
Thanks for the comment!
My fixture drills the holes at a 2 degree camber, 90 degrees to the body. I use that for both of the rear wheels. For the front wheel I also drill one at 2 deg camber, and the raised one with zero degree camber. To steer the car, we are using guide wheels that engage the sides of the pinewood derby track. I found that easier than setting up for rail riding.
I thought you were going to print a car.
That would be against the Pinewood Derby rules