Changing the alternator. The top nut on the tensioner was almost stripped and of course I finished the job. Ordered a new tensioner. Then I realized about the "bottom nut" and you showed me what turned out the easy way. Thank you!
I do little different i put the belt all around on the tensioner to,. And the most ease one on the top. At the last that way I don't put my fingers in risk and is more ease.
Great video. It is very difficult to film this due to the cramped space, but you did a great job. I never thought about loosening the belt by cranking down on the dummy bolt from the bottom! I had tried the special tool from the top and it was not easy. I will remember your technique for the future. I know that putting the tensioner pulley back on is a little tricky. Thanks for the video.
Yes! The top dummy nut on mine is stripped and after a couple hours of researching I finally came across this video which showed the lower one being used. Thank you so much!
Awesome Video Thanks, only thing I would add is replacing the tensioner makes reinstall much easier, not sure why when they age its harder to move them but new tensioner moves a lot easier then the old one did, your belt install was great though much easier to get it over the non-ribbed tensioner then any of the other pulleys.
Thank you very much for taking the time to do such a professional video period that is giving me a good idea what I need to do period And I appreciate it very much
I sheared off the top dummy bolt using my cheater bar after replacing my alternator. I was trying to put the belt back on. I freaked out honestly! Do you think i can get enough torque on the bottom dummy bolt to get the belt back on? I can't believe the amount of pressure it takes to set it back in place, its insane!! Thanks for the detailed video.
You probably can, but I'd do it from underneath the vehicle. Loosen it the same way you do when taking the belt off. Be sure to look at where that dummy bolt sheared off and make sure the tesnioner isn't cracked all the way through. It may be best to replace the tensioner at this point if the strength of it is compromised.
When I removed this assembly off my 06 Touring I didn't see the "Star" washer on the back of the long mounting bolt. Is that washer necessary for reinstall?
All these “dummy nuts” want to do to me are strip out, seriously i put the belt on, had to take it off, and now putting it back on it stripped out, this tensioner was brand new and im using the Schley tensioner tool that says in the description that it was made for these pulleys and wont strip it, ive had 3 of these tensioners in the year of owning my 2010 accord crosstour, i replaced the tensioner when i got the car and the (im guessing oem) tensioner’s fake nut broke in half right as we finished the job, so i had to replace it, the second and third tensioners came from rockauto through a company called skp, they are made of the cheapest aluminum possible and they dont last 2 belt changes, i had to warranty one before i even got to put the belt back on it because the fake nut wasnt stronger than the hydraulic piston, same story with the third one and im giving up on that and having them refund me again, lets hope an oem one is better cheap aluminum for triple the cost
The oem tensioner sucks as well….just more expensive. I am surprised that Honda engineered this piece of crap! The worst thing is I absolutely love the j30 engine. 🤦🏼♂️
I have a question. I have a 2005 Honda Odyssey myself. And the bottom bolt that goes through the "strut" and holds the assembly o the motor broke off inside that screw hole and I was wondering if you could tell me the name of where that bolt broke off
I've been fighting "power steering whine" on my 07 Odyssey. Replaced the power steering pump again today and the noise continues... again. Wondering if it's the tensioner instead. I unplugged the alternator (as others have suggested to see if its alternator diode issue) and that didn't affect the noise. It's driving me crazy. What does a failed tensioner sound like - similar to PS whining? Other thoughts? I dont see bubbles in the PS reservoir so I'm beginning to thing it's not PS. Plus steering assist has been fine, no PS fluid leaks either.
Does the noise get worse when turning? Has the O-ring been replaced where the high pressure power steering line bolts up to the pump? It may not be your power steering. A tensioner pulley could sound similar. But, so could an alternator bearing.
Really Good Video! Do you happen to know if this tensioner style is replaceable with the "LX / EX" style that seems a bit simpler. I've heard of bolt breaking problems, I think it is with this style tensioner. Thanks much!
I’m here due to a broken bolt. Broke at random with no issues before. Actually seems common from what I’ve noticed. Had to remove alternator and ac compressor to get the bracket off and extract the broken bolt
Thanks for the video. Since both those pulleys are metal..............can the bearings be pressed out and in? Reason I ask is bearings cost way less than a whole tensioner.
@@BarboursAutoHelp Thats what Im trying to find out without having to dissasemble mine first. Im sure the bearings in the pulleys are pressed in and can be replaced. Just gotta find out what number bearing they are.
@@atxjax1 Give your local parts store a call and ask them. Just give them your vehicle information and ask them if they have just he bearings for the tensioner pulleys. Or you can call the dealership. Or you can search on the internet for it.
@@BarboursAutoHelp Pulled off the Idler pulley today. That's the one with the T50 bolt. I can tell you that bearing is a 6303 ( 17 x 47 x14 ) . I replaced it without having to remove the whole assembly. and my squeak issue went away. Total cost was $4.32. The tensioner bearing should be a 6203 ( 17 x 40 x 12 ) . I left that one alone as it was still good and didn't wanna jack with that long bolt. This would be a good option if you dont want to drop over a hundred for a new tensioner assembly.
@@atxjax1 Hello! For the bearings you used, do you happen to know what type? Is there any special type? I was going to buy the NSK brand and noticed they had ZZ and DDU type. Please let me know and thanks again for the info! Will save a lot of money changing out just the bearing.
I didn't replace the part, my friend. However, I'm sure you can call most parts stores and get prices. You can even go online and find the part rather handily.
Barbour's Auto Help I generally shop online, however it appears that when I search, there are two very similar albeit different parts that show up. I was uncertain which one was needed. Thanks for your help though.
Try rockauto.com. I've had good results with them. They break things up for you and make finding correct parts very easy. (rockuto.com not a sponsor of Barbours Auto Help.)
Changing the alternator. The top nut on the tensioner was almost stripped and of course I finished the job. Ordered a new tensioner. Then I realized about the "bottom nut" and you showed me what turned out the easy way. Thank you!
No problem
This happened to me! I stripped the top one but I did not know there’s one at the bottom!
I do little different i put the belt all around on the tensioner to,. And the most ease one on the top. At the last that way I don't put my fingers in risk and is more ease.
Great video. It is very difficult to film this due to the cramped space, but you did a great job. I never thought about loosening the belt by cranking down on the dummy bolt from the bottom! I had tried the special tool from the top and it was not easy. I will remember your technique for the future. I know that putting the tensioner pulley back on is a little tricky. Thanks for the video.
No problem
Yes! The top dummy nut on mine is stripped and after a couple hours of researching I finally came across this video which showed the lower one being used. Thank you so much!
Awesome Video Thanks, only thing I would add is replacing the tensioner makes reinstall much easier, not sure why when they age its harder to move them but new tensioner moves a lot easier then the old one did, your belt install was great though much easier to get it over the non-ribbed tensioner then any of the other pulleys.
Thanks!!
Thank you very much for taking the time to do such a professional video period that is giving me a good idea what I need to do period And I appreciate it very much
really great video. Thanks for taking the time.
What’s the torque?
Good explanation and visuals' thanks!
I sheared off the top dummy bolt using my cheater bar after replacing my alternator. I was trying to put the belt back on. I freaked out honestly! Do you think i can get enough torque on the bottom dummy bolt to get the belt back on? I can't believe the amount of pressure it takes to set it back in place, its insane!! Thanks for the detailed video.
You probably can, but I'd do it from underneath the vehicle. Loosen it the same way you do when taking the belt off. Be sure to look at where that dummy bolt sheared off and make sure the tesnioner isn't cracked all the way through. It may be best to replace the tensioner at this point if the strength of it is compromised.
When I removed this assembly off my 06 Touring I didn't see the "Star" washer on the back of the long mounting bolt. Is that washer necessary for reinstall?
Great video!
Great description. Thanks very much.
Your welcome
The top nut on the tensioner assembly broke off. Do I need to replace the entire tensionser or can I use the other nut you spoke of?
All these “dummy nuts” want to do to me are strip out, seriously i put the belt on, had to take it off, and now putting it back on it stripped out, this tensioner was brand new and im using the Schley tensioner tool that says in the description that it was made for these pulleys and wont strip it, ive had 3 of these tensioners in the year of owning my 2010 accord crosstour, i replaced the tensioner when i got the car and the (im guessing oem) tensioner’s fake nut broke in half right as we finished the job, so i had to replace it, the second and third tensioners came from rockauto through a company called skp, they are made of the cheapest aluminum possible and they dont last 2 belt changes, i had to warranty one before i even got to put the belt back on it because the fake nut wasnt stronger than the hydraulic piston, same story with the third one and im giving up on that and having them refund me again, lets hope an oem one is better cheap aluminum for triple the cost
The oem tensioner sucks as well….just more expensive. I am surprised that Honda engineered this piece of crap! The worst thing is I absolutely love the j30 engine. 🤦🏼♂️
I have a question. I have a 2005 Honda Odyssey myself. And the bottom bolt that goes through the "strut" and holds the assembly o the motor broke off inside that screw hole and I was wondering if you could tell me the name of where that bolt broke off
I've been fighting "power steering whine" on my 07 Odyssey. Replaced the power steering pump again today and the noise continues... again. Wondering if it's the tensioner instead. I unplugged the alternator (as others have suggested to see if its alternator diode issue) and that didn't affect the noise. It's driving me crazy. What does a failed tensioner sound like - similar to PS whining? Other thoughts? I dont see bubbles in the PS reservoir so I'm beginning to thing it's not PS. Plus steering assist has been fine, no PS fluid leaks either.
Does the noise get worse when turning? Has the O-ring been replaced where the high pressure power steering line bolts up to the pump? It may not be your power steering. A tensioner pulley could sound similar. But, so could an alternator bearing.
Here is a good video that may help you. ua-cam.com/video/JRHj9_pwx7o/v-deo.html
my bad idler pulley, the top one on this assembly, makes a power steering pump whine. I'm going to replace it today. studying with this video now.
Really Good Video! Do you happen to know if this tensioner style is replaceable with the "LX / EX" style that seems a bit simpler. I've heard of bolt breaking problems, I think it is with this style tensioner. Thanks much!
Not sure
I’m here due to a broken bolt. Broke at random with no issues before. Actually seems common from what I’ve noticed. Had to remove alternator and ac compressor to get the bracket off and extract the broken bolt
You left off the most important info... What's the torque specs??
You will need a manual. I hardly ever provide torque specs to encourage viewers to get a manual.
Thanks for the video. Since both those pulleys are metal..............can the bearings be pressed out and in? Reason I ask is bearings cost way less than a whole tensioner.
Do they sell just the bearings for this?
@@BarboursAutoHelp Thats what Im trying to find out without having to dissasemble mine first. Im sure the bearings in the pulleys are pressed in and can be replaced. Just gotta find out what number bearing they are.
@@atxjax1 Give your local parts store a call and ask them. Just give them your vehicle information and ask them if they have just he bearings for the tensioner pulleys. Or you can call the dealership. Or you can search on the internet for it.
@@BarboursAutoHelp Pulled off the Idler pulley today. That's the one with the T50 bolt. I can tell you that bearing is a 6303 ( 17 x 47 x14 ) . I replaced it without having to remove the whole assembly. and my squeak issue went away. Total cost was $4.32. The tensioner bearing should be a 6203 ( 17 x 40 x 12 ) . I left that one alone as it was still good and didn't wanna jack with that long bolt. This would be a good option if you dont want to drop over a hundred for a new tensioner assembly.
@@atxjax1 Hello! For the bearings you used, do you happen to know what type? Is there any special type? I was going to buy the NSK brand and noticed they had ZZ and DDU type. Please let me know and thanks again for the info! Will save a lot of money changing out just the bearing.
Is this exactly the same part and process for the 2004 Honda Odyssey Ex?
I'm really not sure.
Thanks for the video! Can you please put a link for the replacement part you purchased/used?
I didn't replace the part, my friend. However, I'm sure you can call most parts stores and get prices. You can even go online and find the part rather handily.
Barbour's Auto Help I generally shop online, however it appears that when I search, there are two very similar albeit different parts that show up. I was uncertain which one was needed. Thanks for your help though.
Try rockauto.com. I've had good results with them. They break things up for you and make finding correct parts very easy. (rockuto.com not a sponsor of Barbours Auto Help.)
How do you adjust the tension of the belt, like tighten it.
You don't. It's an automatic tensioner.
What is the 17 mm and 12 mm torque specs please
Need 2003
This was a terrible design by Honda , as long as they have been in business they could have made it simpler.