How to do a Cramp Seam
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- Опубліковано 20 вер 2024
- Well…I tried it! The dreaded cramp seam, which is basically not used ‘round here anymore given the incredible amount of work that goes into it. Bob has never shown me this - he’s described it in detail a few times, and showed me the work they attempted to do at a tin and coppersmithing convergence many years ago.
I used a thicker copper to show the change in thickness, and only did one little bit of a seam because…well, it’s just to show the general details and process! I have seen other videos on social media of smiths who do a lot of lovely artisanal work and some use the crimp seam and really fit a whole seam together and hammer it down. So cool! Bob and I have never done a cramp seam in the 7.5 years I’ve worked with him - the other seams work just as fine for what we build. BUT there. I tried it. Using only what I’ve been verbally taught, but never shown. Thanks for coming along for the ride.
AND if any of you all do the cramp seam at all (or differently) please make a video to show the rest of us! :)
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Something about a woman that knows how to solder is really impressive and on the unique side
Thank you very much for your very kind comment. :) I do enjoy soldering - it's satisfying!
LOVE this video! I have SO many pans with this type of seam, it makes me love them even more! AND I understand more thoroughly WHY it is no longer done. SO labor intensive! Thanks a million Sara!
Right?! I know you get it and appreciate it!! I mean, why do this when there are machines that will do it now!? lolol! xoxo
Great video!! Hope you bring this type of seam back, it can be beautiful and very durable for high heat cooking. Apple butter and sugar candies. Some people call it dovetail or castle seam. You could use a wood chisel and file on the heavier gauge (use a hardwood backer). Once they started spinning and pressing it was no longer favored. You have to make your own braze paste now probably, not sure if its sold. Save your brass filings from making brass handles to make the paste. Awesome job!!
Yes, I would love to do these more, but they are SO time consuming, and I don't have the set up for the brazing (I do have the flux and rods for doing it, just not the high heat). Thanks for watching!! :)
That’s some thick copper!!!! 😱😉
I actually just bought a set of those mini offsets. 😁
wheee! Have fun with them!!
@@housecopper I plan on it! 😉😁
Interesting technique.i used a similar joint on my first pot,a little different though. I used sheet metal notchers to cut the v before you removed the square. You may want to consider using a chisel for that though to reach side, much faster and less stressful.
Thank you! I don't plan to do this technique often, but I do have chisels and will have to experiment!
It easy to see why it's a lost art. So difficult. The old workers were remarkable.
No kidding!!! I could NOT imagine doing this for everything!! Insane! I'm sure you got good and fast at it over time, though.
Would it be easier to just hammer the pieces to be joined to half thickness first, then make straight, measured cuts? Also seems like if you scribed a line, you could drill holes of your desired width using the line as a tangent, then cut perpendicular to your scribe mark, and you'd be most of the way to having your teeth removed. A pass or two on a grinding wheel and you'd be square.
You definitely could do all that! I was trying (poorly!) to show how they were done in the 1700s before there were drills and electric grinding wheels. But, for making these today...heck yeah, your way makes sense and sounds grand! Worth trying for sure!! Thank you!
I'd cut the back cut with a cold chisel. Even crease it with a chisel, then snap it at the crease?
I should try the crease with a chisel. Good idea!
@housecopper why not cut the parallel sides of the tooth and then bend it down 45 degrees to be cut off? And grind the little bit of remaining stump (from the base of the tooth that got bent down) off with a grinding wheel? Nippers are not the best tool to make teeth with. At least not completely!
And if the make the teeth the same width as your grinding wheel--- Well, it would save you a lot of effort!
Hi Sara, you wonderful talented friend, you may do with my Blacksmithing suggestions and thoughts as you wish. looks like you're learning a couple Blacksmithing technic called (1 Scarfing) (2 Forge Welding) where you thin the ends of 2 Pieses of Metal to a 45 or so, heat them in a Forge to a mailable plastic condition and drive them to gather Hot. (2 Forge Welding) A Double thickness hammered to gather creating a single desired thickness).
With Iron / Steel I use a combination of Borax and Borac Aced. 10 parts Borax to1 to 50/50 Borax Aced.
The Purpose is to float all scale and dirt from the surfaces to be joined by Welding. I have what's called a Saddle that is a Squar faced upside-down U-shaped pies of Steel that I put over the Face of my Ancil to protect the Anvils for the Sharp edge of a Hot or Cold Chisel.
One can be made from Brons or Brass witch is a little easier on the Cutting face of the Chisel.
Scribe the Lines you wish to cut and with the use of a Hot Cut Chisel, cut most if not all thewy through the Copper, I cut the same shape you're cutting with your Nippers, with a Hot Cut Chisel. I have my Grandads John A. Forrest 1894 - 1976 old time Left and Right-hand Nipers, wonderful old Tools when the kept sharp and Oiled. You may find this easier than the Method your using with Nipers given the Thickness of the Copper. Have a wonderful safe day!
Thank you Raymond, I am sure others on here will very much appreciate your comments!
Doing this on a curved surface must be a challenge. Thanks for the video.
I cannot imagine it. This was tricky enough as it is!
Question ; couldn’t one use a band saw for the cutting…?
👏👏
Great seam… 😮 The Queen of coppersmiths
You could, but you're technically not supposed to use a band saw for cutting metal. I've also found the saw (when I inappropriately use it for cutting metal lol) makes the copper get hot fast! But I mean, yeah, you totally could. :) xoxo
I have a big sauce pan 7 inches high about 9 inch in dia with that seam on the bottem. With a brass handle. I decided to go with cast iron handles only so i put the brass/bronze handled ones away!
It is a well done seam but it still seems (seams?) a bit primative--- to me.
Is there a market for these pans other than for scrap value?
Do folks want these much older pans?
You can always check on the Copper Cookware Enthusiasts page on Facebook about interest...
I do cramps alittle different, I don't cut any materal out. And I cheat.. I use a angle grinder to feather the edge. Then I use a chisel to cut one side of the joint, so it looks like a wood dove tail, insted of cutting you don't aneal ( I am 73 and still can't spell) clean and fold the tabs up down up down. This is important use soft iron tie wire to hold the uncut feather edge tight into the tab side. It needs to be tight when you close the cramp it won't spit out the uncut feather edge back out.
Hammering a feather not with angle grinders.
If you put iron wire in a cordless drill and turn it while pulling it. It will be straight as a arrow. Leave a loop for a nail to twist and tighten the wire. it is like a turn buckle.
Tie wire is a fun art.
I use Harris 45, 56, 76 silver solder.. I get solder and Soldier mixed up the spelling and "Bridgit" Harris makes it.
I hope I made alittle sence, there is a "how its made" Trumpets see if you can find that super thin brass and they cramp it.
Thank you so much! I wish I could watch you do this technique! Do you do a lot of cramp seams? It's such a lost art!!
I guess I should proof read, sorry.
@@housecopper I will get back to you later won't forget.