E46 Wiring Harness Repair & Trunk Replacement
Вставка
- Опубліковано 25 жов 2024
- When I bought my car, one of the previous owners had damaged the trunk lid with one of those bike carriers. The paint was chipped. One day I saw my exact trunk on a car in a junkyard so I decided to grab it. I've had it sitting around forever and this was the perfect time to swap it over. At the same time, I needed to take care of some shoddy wiring repairs that someone else had done that were causing me constant issues.
PS. No I didn't gain weight, this is just a video I've had lying around for a few months and never got around to editing!
This video is for entertainment purposes only. 50sKid assumes no liability for any repairs or modifications performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video.
Hey Jason, a couple of things that might help make the threading easier. Push steel wire through first, hook it to the end of the loom and then use it to pull the loom through. Also, talcum powder helps lubricate the whole process.
When I replaced that trunk rubber grommet I pulled the wire, unwrapped the whole thing measuring along and taking notes and pictures for junctions, removed white plastic clips, depinned all connectors. Cleaned up all of the old glue from the wires. Then wrapped the whole length together with 3M regular electrical tape, COMPRESSING it along the length, then spayed the taped loom with soapy water. Pulled the loom through the grommet. Cleaned and unwrapped it again. Then rewrapped with the Tesa tape, put connectors and clips back.
Definitely a tedious job. Take a lot of pictures, especially for the connector pins.
GL.
Great video Jason, and thanks for all the others too! Just an FYI on my own experience with that rubber loom from the body to the trunk lid: I've had my '03 330xi for 13 years now and I've had to repair the wires in the flex zone 5 times now... the wires can't endure thousands of flex cycles, especially the case with the number of freeze cycles mine ALSO have to endure up here in Canada. I use my trunk a LOT... probably open and close it 20x a week. the casing on the wires break b/c they just didn't select a casing chemistry that can endure 10+ years of flexing and thousands of freeze - thaw temp cycles and then they short. As SOON as I see a tail light indicator on my dash.. I know it's time to dig back into the loom once again. I might shop for - source a replacement segment of wire of the same gauge with a KNOWN low temp and high flexibility rating... b/c I want to keep my car another 6+ years and NOT have to keep doing this.. ha ha ha
Thanks Man. I have an '02 Z3 coupe. After years of opening and closing rear hatch, things slowly quit working. Wiper motor, defroster, center tail light.... When I pulled the snorkel back it looked like half the wires had been been cut through clean. I've been wondering thinking about how I wanted to approach fixing this. The soldering and heat shrink tube look like the best way. Thanks, I've been a subscriber for a quite a while now. Watched lots of BMW channels, but none better than yours. I can't thank you enough.
Thank you mister Jason I am very happy your car has become fixed and I hope for you that you have a very good day and you have made my day very good becuse of your videos
Looks great! Thanks for sharing, Jason.
I did this job on my E90 a few weeks back. Replaced the trunk-lid and the rubber sleeve as it had a split in it. I pulled the wires I made the cut further up inside the boot lid. I did a terrible job soldering and shrink-wrapping. I used insulating tape for extra insulation. But at least it's inside the trunk-lid nice and dry and not being flexed.
Glad to see the e46 back thank for all your vids man
I have a 2000 bmw convertible 323ci . My trunk ajar light is on and my convertible won't open ..... can u please help my find the issue with why the warning light is on saying trunk is open
Jason, you are the only one I know who can help me out with this car problem. The car is a range rover 1998 p38 4.6HSE and v8. Many people were invited to start the car even from a far State but the couldn't. The challenge is a crank no start, no spark,no injector pulse but good communication with a scan tool. I have added fuel to the intake manifold and crank the engine no change at all. It is not starting. In addition, I checked for spark, but there is no spark as well.
Hence, I have just checked for injector pulse but there's no injector pulse either. There is also no ignition current to the injector circuit with key ON and engine off.
All the fuses and relays are good. I also checked the injector circuit for continuity if the wire is shorted but it was ok. Scan tool communicated and showed only p1843 and p1842 code. There was no RPM during cranking. What I noticed today when I compared the ignition, earth and DC with the same car that was starting and driving to the car that was not starting, what I saw made me to flabbergasted. Where the was ignition for example in the working car there was DC in the car that was not starting. Also a particular relay circuit for example RL-2 one of the pin of the connector when my test light was on battery ground and relay removed, the pump buzzed and testlight dim but when I tried that same location with test light and same pin the test light was dim and ABS relay was actuated no buzz from pump. It is like that in many places in the fuse box and PCM circuit. Please what's the cause of the problem and what do I need to do to fix the problem?
My e46 had a recall on the ground wire for tail lights. (In canada) The ground wasn't big enough and caused wires and harnesses to get to hot and melt eventually. Could be why they had but end connectors. Maybe not too. Just some food for thought. I'm guessing they was on the wires cause they was maybe pinching where they go into the trunk
Yay, J!
The guys and gals at the junk yard must know you well after years of your videos eh?! 😁
That Milwaukee Soldering Iron is Great!
tip for the next time you have to thread wire thru a rubber grommet next time, find PVC that is half size bigger and shove it thru. your welcome! (metal pipe works too) pvc is cheaper metal may be laying around.
Thanks for this Video, Jason, great Job!
Brilliant demonstration. Thanks so much.
Double-check your license plate light bulbs, that could trigger tail light being out! It happened to me
Hey mate @50skid, can you tell me how many wires for the reverse light are going through that harness? are they 2 wires separate or is only one that is splitted after, meaning that the slip is done in the trunk lid.
Nice.
My 04 330i
Passenger rear tail light got on fire.
Good thing my son was driving the car. Because, if it was my wife the car would have been a total loss.
So I need to change the tail light, wire harness battery, cover panel, bumper.
And not sure , but I can see the melted battery from the outside. 😮
Hello... how much do you think the trunk lid weighs? Thank You the informational video...
Unfortunately this is not a permanent solution - the wires inside the loom will keep braking, because their PVC insulation becomes brittle and less flexible as it ages.
I had pulled the loom out to solder broken wires, or to splice in new pieces where the damage was more extensive, only to have to do it again.
Eventually bought a set of silicone-insulated wires and replaced the section inside the flexible loom on all wires. The silicone insulation is a bit thicker than PVC, but is super flexible and more durable. Some use PFTE-insulated wires (expensive mil-spec and aviation grade wires). The PFTE insulation is thinner, but much less flexible...
A proper Linesman splice! NASA approves. Been thinking about opening my trunk deck, partly because I want to install an emergency trunk release, partly because I've been thinking about a carbon fiber deck.
First things first though, I need to get her back on the road. She's starting fine. ended up needing new plugs and coils. Unfortunately, now that I know it runs, I also know the cats are stuffed up good. At this point, i'm thinking ebay catless headers because it's (semi) legal in Texas, but mostly because I'm broke and it's the absolute cheapest option.
Thanks again for the videos!
good job my friend very nice many hellos from athens greece
BMWs are very finicky when it comes to running light/ taillight bulbs. That's because they use the bulb's resistance for the bulb out warning system. They are even sensitive to the material the bulb base is made of (copper vs. nickel plating). I always use OEM BMW bulbs (I grab spares at the junkyard) and I never try LED retrofits.
Hi there. I recently bought a non coded trunk lock cylinder to put into my trunk. I noticed there's an electrical connector on the lock, and there does seem to be an unused connector on my harness. I noticed you didn't plug anything into your electrical connector (on your lock your connector looks white). Any comments? Thanks!
Thanks for the info
It is great you have access to a wreckers/recycler that seems to have lots of BMW parts. I am in Canada and that option to get BMW parts is really rare. Its a real scramble to get used parts.
I agree I'm on the east coast and it's the same here. Practically non existent for used BMW parts
Can this is be a reason af water in battery compartment? Thanks
Would you know why my left blinker stays solid on even with car off and no key? Bad Blinker switch?
Please do a video of the wiring harness for the lighting in the front please
Wow i really needed this. UA-cam is listening 😆
Hey do you have a similar video about a front end harness?
13:40 Ha ha, a few minutes earlier in the video I was yelling at the screen, "No Jason! Don't heat shrink anything yet! Function check the whole harness!"
More room for activities !
Nice video. You should get an E39 also at some point :p
Jason, what size heat shrink were you using?
Thanks
Could you help me 03 325i new race left drivers side tail light is off when not running but left side tail stays on could you help
Another good one!
How do u remove that triangle pull string?
They just add a ground to the tailights, who knows how effective it is. My car has an issue with the rear defroster, it works fine but if the radio is on it hear a bunch of static.
I just looked at mine and holy Jesus of God, more wires split than good ones.
Interesting part is that no fault lights for bulbs...
I’ve got to do the same on my E39 (1999) 535i V8 msport..have a new boot thats fully rust free and nicely resprayed as my old one had rusted very badly under the boot (trunk) lock mechanism.so I’ve the same kinda job to do 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻Steve 🇬🇧
Butt (Bullet) connectors not the propper way to do it! Looks away guiltily ! I did stagger the joins though ;)
Hey Jason how can I contact you to get that valve cover manifold ?
I've been seeing "check brake lights" on my e39 for the past two years. Brake lights work, changed all bulbs (including the dome light) just to be sure, still seeing the error. I checked the end connectors, no issue. Any ideas?
Bmw scan tool, read the error codes from the lighting module
24:29 almost RIP’d the window! 😮
Hey there, i've been having some issues with my engine.. e46 323ci '99 m52tub25 (double vanos)... to sum it up, engine cranks but doesn't start, actually it started a few times but was very rough and died after few seconds... there was exhaust camshaft sensor issue that we resolved by changing sensor with new, but before that, me and my buddies were cranking it like for a bit.. next thing was to check crankshaft sensor located near the flywheel from which when was taken off started leaking petrol (not clear petrol but darkish brown).... so my question: is it possible that while cranking we flushed petrol down the piston rings to oil pan? because now that we took oil filter off, it smells of petrol and looks pretty clean... and on a dipstick it's a bit oily but also smells of petrol.. tomorrow we're going to check compression on each piston.. if that looks good, what should we do next? change oil and oil filter and try to get it going again or what would your suggestion be on this problem? when connected to diagnostic tool there's no error, every error that was there was resolved... i strongly think we flooded the engine by cranking too much, but again shouldn't that excess petrol go out the exhaust? help me please im desperate, i love what you do and iv'e learned so much from you but when i try to google my problem nothing comes up
Yeah sounds like you flooded it and it leaked past the rings and down into the oil pan. Definitely change the oil and filter but then go back to basics: fuel, air, spark, compression, timing. Good luck!
Found out from where it went down the pan... From fuel pressure regulator mine is on the fuel injector rail, as soon as i turn the key to first postion it starts flowing directly to vacum hose thats part of ccv... Thanks for feedback 💯👍
19:30 break light turn on as you manipulate the harness
Moral of the story: quick way was the way to go
The most important and first thing you missed, was to disconnect the battery, your boot light kept coming on and flickering while you fidled with the wires. I would check fuses and the electrical system after that :)
Heh yeah I noticed that while editing