I have the duraplus brand. Where the horizontal T portion meets the vertical, it leaks along the factory seam. Is this common? Should I silicone that? I wouldn't be to concerned but it weeps and follows the pipe into the cabin and leaks a little. Note-the exterior thimble was sealed with high temp silicone around the pipe and regular silicon where thimble meets exterior wall (T-111).
I used the double wall 90° from the 6" insulated down to the stove pipe then to stove with single wall. Worked just fine. I still made sure I had enough clearance from ceiling to the elbow I have 7' ft ceilings and have over 2ft clearance.
@@Everclearish my problem is the mantle is going to be within four in and not 6 so I was looking to substitute a triple wall in that area or possibly a shield
@@gwp1ohio -- Im sorry I wish I knew if they have what you're looking for. I got almost all my pipe from Menards & Lowe's. I didn't need triple wall though only Double wall insulated.
I have a modular with a full basement. I have a fireplace in living area with a pipe run up through roof. I am looking of running from basement up through floor and through existing flu, 8" will pass right up into pipe. what do I need to run through floor
Hi Joe! I have a old stove with the pipe's. I want get the pipes to stay together for the elbow to the straight pipes. I push them through the hole and they fall apart. Any suggestions?
They also dont state whether you can use a longer horizontal pipe. What if you can't go through the eaves? What if a person can manufacture his own extended wall straps to his desired distance in order to go out past the eaves with the pipe vertically? I reckon this company would offer you those 30 degree ($200-300) pipes. But I would rather have a straight run up past the roof which would look a lot nicer without that expensive 30 degree pipe.
I had just watched a channel where a guy ended up getting a longer horizontal pipe. I think it was like an extra two inches longer which was just enough to get past the overhang. I am now in the process of setting up a wood stove and have to do a through the wall install and I think that I'd rather not cut through my eaves. Its been 11 months since you posted this. Shame they have such a nice video but don't reply to the questions. What did you end up doing in your case did you get a longer horizontal? Cheers!
@@SpiritualHearts1 - Yes I did go longer horizontally. I went ahead and bought a 36" insulated pipe and ran it through my basment wall out to the Tee. I adjusted the horizontal run until I was about 3-4" level vertical from the overhang at the roof. I had to fabricate pieces that went from the vertical support brackets to the exterior of the house. It worked out great. The stove wound up being exactly where I needed it, as far as distance from the back of the stove to the wall. I had to go through a block wall then through the red brick also. I also welded a support bracket that supports the whole chimney at the level I needed it. It sounds like a lot of work but actually it wasnt that bad...if you know how to use a grinder to cut angle iron and use an arc welder etc. I used self tapping concrete/masonry screws to secure the support brackets. I guess Im lucky because my basement is a walk out so the basement floor is level with the outside driveway. The Pleasnt Hearth 2200 sq ft woodstove I have burns great with the set up I used. This guy on this vid did something similar. ua-cam.com/video/ViQ-nnFrYvM/v-deo.html There's a part 1,2 & 3 I think.
I had to get the angled elbow kit. I can't remember if it was 15 or 30 or whatever it was, but it made it possible to get the pipe out far enough to get past the eaves.
@@dahk16 -- I think it was partially due to the price and also where I had to place the height on my horizontal pipe that made me not go that route. I figure if it works correctly then no harm no foul. I love wood heat and I'm getting older (56) now. Just getting up and starting the fire and sipping my coffee just about makes my mornings in the winter. Winter is close again now...guess it's time to polish, clean the stove etc. again. I hope y'all enjoy your wood stoves.
The longer the horizontal pipe the harder it is for your chimney to draw and the more build up you will get when and if you don't keep your stove running at the right temp. Therefore it is better to "jog out" your vertical pipe using angles and keep your horizontal run as short as possible (2 foot or less is best) .You are right , every freakin piece of Duravent is very expensive .
Was wondering if you guys sell your product anywhere near Indiana County Pennsylvania and also I watched all your videos and I never seen anything like I need if I was to install a through the wall kit my overhang of the roof is a little over two feet do you guys offer anything that spaces the T farther out from the side of my home I am NOT able to cut through the Eve and I don't see any type of elbows I thought this would be simple everywhere I go they are telling me that they don't make any pipe longer to space it away if that is true why is that thanks let me know
that's the B.S. about these kits. $300+ gives you the bare minimum, most homes need to go a total of 18' to meet code. you guys basically offer a wall thimball the cleanout t, and some trim rings. that's why I took my kit back I searched craigs list.
Oh my god!! Just went to the site to check out different pipes and fittings because this "kit" does not even get you where you need to go to finish the job. If I am seeing right, this kit is the one listed at almost $1100 and does NOT get you either - A: above your roof-line the required amount or - B: from the stove to the wall. When I added up every piece I needed for my rather small install I almost fell out of my chair. The chimney costs me as much or MORE than the stove itself, depending on which stove model I decide to go with. These guys' prices are insane!!! 🤬🤬🤬 People.....look around before pouring your money into all these VERY EXPENSIVE kits and additional parts. I did metal fabrication for nearly thirty years, of one kind or another, and there is no excuse for this kind of price gouging.
This company doesn’t take much pride in their products. The thimble I got is two pieces that are riveted together. They are misaligned so the chimney piece that goes through the wall won’t even fit. A QA/QC manager is much needed at your facility. That’s such a simple thing to really screw someone. Now I have a 14” hole in my garage wall and can’t even install your product. Thanks for nothing
I bought one, and was disappointed with the product, overpriced, not even close to complete, you only get enough pipe to barely get through the wall, Duravent doesn't seem to know that roofs have an overhang, or they are just too cheap to give you the extra foot you need to clear the overhang! So, once you are through the wall you will now have to fabricate everything to get far enough out to clear the overhang that every roof I have ever seen has, unless you want to butcher your roof. At around a hundred and fifty bucks for a two-foot piece you can plan on pushing a thousand bucks for your flu and a bunch of headaches, not to mention the dented-up product once removed from the box. Wish I had not purchased this product!
Kool. Been trying to find a wood burning stove installer to redo what my other guy did wrong. Now I can do it myself! Thanks!!!
a diagram or picture of real installs would be great
What is better, between going through a wall or through roof
How do you install the Tee Support? The Wall thimble gets in the way.
good talk, made sense, just have to picture in your head what to do as he is talking, got it. thanks
Can the 9" piece that connects to wall thimble be replaced with a longer piece to accommodate for a large eve overhand?
Yes - you may have to adjust or adapt the wall bracket on the outside if you do that.
Can you screw the joints
I have the duraplus brand. Where the horizontal T portion meets the vertical, it leaks along the factory seam. Is this common? Should I silicone that? I wouldn't be to concerned but it weeps and follows the pipe into the cabin and leaks a little. Note-the exterior thimble was sealed with high temp silicone around the pipe and regular silicon where thimble meets exterior wall (T-111).
The T shouldn't leak...at all. If any of the pipe is twisted and locked in place and has the locking rings put on them...the shouldn't leak.
do they make a triple wall Black pipe for interior?
I used the double wall 90° from the 6" insulated down to the stove pipe then to stove with single wall. Worked just fine. I still made sure I had enough clearance from ceiling to the elbow I have 7' ft ceilings and have over 2ft clearance.
@@Everclearish my problem is the mantle is going to be within four in and not 6 so I was looking to substitute a triple wall in that area or possibly a shield
@@gwp1ohio -- Are you saying you'd be 4 inches away from the wall going down to the stove?
@@Everclearish 18" double wall to wall, but mantle is 14" wide so 4" edge of mantle to pipe.
@@gwp1ohio -- Im sorry I wish I knew if they have what you're looking for. I got almost all my pipe from Menards & Lowe's. I didn't need triple wall though only Double wall insulated.
Is this the same as it would be, installing out a window?
I have a modular with a full basement. I have a fireplace in living area with a pipe run up through roof. I am looking of running from basement up through floor and through existing flu, 8" will pass right up into pipe. what do I need to run through floor
Hi Joe! I have a old stove with the pipe's. I want get the pipes to stay together for the elbow to the straight pipes. I push them through the hole and they fall apart. Any suggestions?
Do you have kits that go in & up a brick chimney..?
Your walls are very thin in the usa you can easily double the through the wall shielding for uk also why isn't all your flue insulated.
They also dont state whether you can use a longer horizontal pipe. What if you can't go through the eaves? What if a person can manufacture his own extended wall straps to his desired distance in order to go out past the eaves with the pipe vertically? I reckon this company would offer you those 30 degree ($200-300) pipes. But I would rather have a straight run up past the roof which would look a lot nicer without that expensive 30 degree pipe.
I had just watched a channel where a guy ended up getting a longer horizontal pipe. I think it was like an extra two inches longer which was just enough to get past the overhang. I am now in the process of setting up a wood stove and have to do a through the wall install and I think that I'd rather not cut through my eaves. Its been 11 months since you posted this. Shame they have such a nice video but don't reply to the questions. What did you end up doing in your case did you get a longer horizontal? Cheers!
@@SpiritualHearts1 - Yes I did go longer horizontally. I went ahead and bought a 36" insulated pipe and ran it through my basment wall out to the Tee. I adjusted the horizontal run until I was about 3-4" level vertical from the overhang at the roof. I had to fabricate pieces that went from the vertical support brackets to the exterior of the house. It worked out great. The stove wound up being exactly where I needed it, as far as distance from the back of the stove to the wall. I had to go through a block wall then through the red brick also. I also welded a support bracket that supports the whole chimney at the level I needed it. It sounds like a lot of work but actually it wasnt that bad...if you know how to use a grinder to cut angle iron and use an arc welder etc. I used self tapping concrete/masonry screws to secure the support brackets. I guess Im lucky because my basement is a walk out so the basement floor is level with the outside driveway. The Pleasnt Hearth 2200 sq ft woodstove I have burns great with the set up I used. This guy on this vid did something similar. ua-cam.com/video/ViQ-nnFrYvM/v-deo.html There's a part 1,2 & 3 I think.
I had to get the angled elbow kit. I can't remember if it was 15 or 30 or whatever it was, but it made it possible to get the pipe out far enough to get past the eaves.
@@dahk16 -- I think it was partially due to the price and also where I had to place the height on my horizontal pipe that made me not go that route. I figure if it works correctly then no harm no foul. I love wood heat and I'm getting older (56) now. Just getting up and starting the fire and sipping my coffee just about makes my mornings in the winter. Winter is close again now...guess it's time to polish, clean the stove etc. again. I hope y'all enjoy your wood stoves.
The longer the horizontal pipe the harder it is for your chimney to draw and the more build up you will get when and if you don't keep your stove running at the right temp. Therefore it is better to "jog out" your vertical pipe using angles and keep your horizontal run as short as possible (2 foot or less is best) .You are right , every freakin piece of Duravent is very expensive .
Do you drill a 6" hole or a 9" hole through the wall for the thimble?
I believe the hole for thimble is 14.5"x14.5" since it is triple walled.
For the prices that DuraVent charges they should absolutely have better step by step install instructions .
Was wondering if you guys sell your product anywhere near Indiana County Pennsylvania and also I watched all your videos and I never seen anything like I need if I was to install a through the wall kit my overhang of the roof is a little over two feet do you guys offer anything that spaces the T farther out from the side of my home I am NOT able to cut through the Eve and I don't see any type of elbows I thought this would be simple everywhere I go they are telling me that they don't make any pipe longer to space it away if that is true why is that thanks let me know
that's the B.S. about these kits. $300+ gives you the bare minimum, most homes need to go a total of 18' to meet code. you guys basically offer a wall thimball the cleanout t, and some trim rings. that's why I took my kit back I searched craigs list.
Instead of going E-B, maybe you can start at the wood stove explaining things in a more organized manner. Very confusing.
Oh my god!! Just went to the site to check out different pipes and fittings because this "kit" does not even get you where you need to go to finish the job. If I am seeing right, this kit is the one listed at almost $1100 and does NOT get you either - A: above your roof-line the required amount or - B: from the stove to the wall.
When I added up every piece I needed for my rather small install I almost fell out of my chair. The chimney costs me as much or MORE than the stove itself, depending on which stove model I decide to go with.
These guys' prices are insane!!! 🤬🤬🤬
People.....look around before pouring your money into all these VERY EXPENSIVE kits and additional parts.
I did metal fabrication for nearly thirty years, of one kind or another, and there is no excuse for this kind of price gouging.
You
This company doesn’t take much pride in their products. The thimble I got is two pieces that are riveted together. They are misaligned so the chimney piece that goes through the wall won’t even fit. A QA/QC manager is much needed at your facility. That’s such a simple thing to really screw someone. Now I have a 14” hole in my garage wall and can’t even install your product. Thanks for nothing
How did this guy even get this job? Thanks for explaining nothing
I bought one, and was disappointed with the product, overpriced, not even close to complete, you only get enough pipe to barely get through the wall, Duravent doesn't seem to know that roofs have an overhang, or they are just too cheap to give you the extra foot you need to clear the overhang! So, once you are through the wall you will now have to fabricate everything to get far enough out to clear the overhang that every roof I have ever seen has, unless you want to butcher your roof. At around a hundred and fifty bucks for a two-foot piece you can plan on pushing a thousand bucks for your flu and a bunch of headaches, not to mention the dented-up product once removed from the box.
Wish I had not purchased this product!