Nice work on that one, sometimes we get sideways and backwards with power connectors, that's life.. however the thing that would drive me absolutely nuts, even though you know that phone otherwise works perfectly, to not be able to go in after repair and do a complete systems function test, that would probably eat at me a little.. but it is what it is. Thanks for the awesome content Jason!
Yes a but maddening for sure. It’s WAY worse if the board would have been separated and reassembled. I would have stressed to the customer that the passcode is needed. Thanks 😊
Im fairly new to this, come from chisel irons to micro stuff, fixed 2 out of 4 iphones so far! Between u n North Fix, I’ve learnt so much. Can you update your equipment list as I want to know what Tweezers you used? Not metal looking?
My equipment links really need updated. Here are these tweezers: www.mobilesentrix.com/handmade-non-magnetic-stainless-tweezers-qianli Glad to have you watching!
Your control of hot air is remarkable. I have two fine tip soldering irons and I use them to put on the 0402 SMT parts. That way I avoid the use of hot air which tends to do unpleasant things.
Good to see you posting so regularly Jason. Now that Paul Daniels is in semi UA-cam retirement 😂 your repair videos are greatly appreciated. Love your great sense of humour, it’s brand spanking new
Hey Pedro, thank you! Hopefully Paul comes back around to UA-cam soon. I'm trying to post a brand spanking new video at least weekly but hopefully more! 🙂
Thanks for your video. I did the diode test and the reading are close to yours. But using 4VDC on the test points, I see a short on the main power line. So I guess I’m stuck at this point.
Thank you! These hardly ever pull pads when doing it this way. I rake it off with a blade to protect NAND beside it. Once the old cap is gone, I can swap out the solder for something that melts much lower. Then the new cap can be soldered without risking nearby components. Some components have lines that don't have points all over the board though and would be really dangerous to do this way!
This is one of those components that the pads hardly ever go when removed this way. Sometimes the pads can be damaged like this. When it’s something where it’s a hard to access line like something where the only other connection is under the CPU, I wouldn’t dare to use this method! Thanks 🙏
What thermal camera do you use? Im facing a similair issue with an iPhone 13 aswell, but cant diagnose further without schematics or someway of finding shorted/bad components
I finally mentioned it at the beginning of a video I just posted. Sorry, this was sent to me by Union Repair but they no longer sell it. There should be something comparable on Amazon or from someplace else tho! I haven't tried any others though.
They can fail at random but also from physical impact. They’re ceramic so they crack/shatter. This cap is commonly cracked on the 13. I think it’s due to the location on the board and how the phone is assembled.
Hi there a phone came to me which is vdd boost short to ground i removed the power ic shield and a capacitor was shorted to ground and i removed, after that phone came back to life But the problem is after i reballed the layer and switch on the nand line short to ground I removed the layer and the problem exist pleae help After injecting voltage cpu getting heat up
This is ZXW tool in this video. Can buy from a handful of places. May need to use Google translate on camera mode to read Chinese and get through checkout process though!
Hi Jason, i was wondering if you have ever used cleaning swabs..Apparently they don't leave those annoying fibres behind when cleaning a board. Any way hope this new year is a great one for you and family. Thanks for all the great content so far. 👍👍
Only by staying way below the melting point of the alloy used under NAND. It’s why I broke the cap off with a blade, replaced the solder with something that melts much lower and then raised my temp a little to solder the replacement component. If I had removed that cap with hot air, not popping solder out around NAND would be tricky.
Smashing repair as always Jason 😀 Those smd capacitors are a pain in the ass, a lot of laptops suffer with random shorting. I dont know if the layer construction makes them brittle, Or is the soldering Temperature too high for some types. I know nothing, just in woffle mode lol.
Just wait until summer down here! The air is almost 200 degrees the whole time then lol! Thanks 😬 Just in case u were really asking about my hot air station: www.mobilesentrix.com/quick-861dw-hot-air-rework-station-quick-110v Can probably find it cheaper tho!
Well i found the short! Fried the new power management chip(original kaboom) .. but hey! Least my thermal cam caught the secondary chip heating up. Cant seem to id that chip. Might need to install board view software you use for the phones. Chip is unrecognizable and i don’t have a donor to save me this time.
I have had the same eXact problem yesterday. Apprently iphone 13 are prone to this type of issue. Also I did not go straight to the thermal camera , but i split opened the board in 2, adding 2 h more of work ahahahah BTW Great video bud as always!!
just noticed u were posting again! first time seeing a 13 opened... so I see since apple lost the fight to stop people repairing they countered by making screens break easier when attempted to repair...
Oh, they've done so much more! Almost everything is serialized now and causes "Unknown Part" messages to pop-up after 3rd party repair. I'm seeing small shops go out of business quite a bit now. Apple may claim to support repair but they quite blatantly rig it against repair. Good to see you here in my comments!
@@ststele oh yeah that sucks... they are copying how cars do it but for "theft" concerns. but at least in a car the ecm, bcm and other modules have relearn procedures to learn the new serial number of a replaced device and if necessary recalibrate. however most of those parts are OEM like from junkyards, ebay or dealer not 3rd party.
Yep! I’m just thrilled this board didn’t need separated. If it was a main short, the odds of needing separated are pretty high. This is a usb current meter that I got from union repair years ago. They don’t sell it anymore but surely there are similar models online. It’s just a usb current meter with graphing.
Gonna try really hard to keep that from happening. A lot has changed since then although I'm sure the content still looks the same! I really appreciate that you understand the human in me. Thank you. 🙏
Mmmhmmmm, if I wasn't hunched over a tripod + clicking lights off and on, I would not have made such a silly mistake. LOL :-) Thank you for watching & commenting.
@@ststele interesting how that cap was cracked. I have noticed the 13 model ripping off all the pads in that inner corner area when dropped. I believe the board flexes a lot there. Also had lots of cases where the pads were ripped through the layers on 13s and the only sane thing was a core board swap. Happen several times, they get really bad when dropped, more like any other iphone model
I think at this time you are the go-to on repair videos and it's been my favorite channel for years please don't disappear God bless you
Hello, I really appreciate that! Thank you very much for watching and commenting - I’m going to keep posting! God bless you too.
keep at it cant wait for the next video . 😄@@ststele
Just seen your content for the first time and I’m annoyed that it hasn’t come up way sooner, I’m going to have to go back and watch more,thanks
Glad you found me! I didn’t post for much of 2023 so it’s reasonable that my videos haven’t been popping up. Thanks for watching!
HI Jason , can you give me some infos about the graphical power meter that you use to check the current absorbtion ? Very thank you!
I just loved the way that you replaced the capacitor how perfectly done. I am starting to learn repairing phones after this video
Nice work on that one, sometimes we get sideways and backwards with power connectors, that's life.. however the thing that would drive me absolutely nuts, even though you know that phone otherwise works perfectly, to not be able to go in after repair and do a complete systems function test, that would probably eat at me a little.. but it is what it is. Thanks for the awesome content Jason!
Yes a but maddening for sure. It’s WAY worse if the board would have been separated and reassembled. I would have stressed to the customer that the passcode is needed. Thanks 😊
Good job Jason. I guessed nand rail short before you opened it as I think if it was a main rail short I don't think it would show any charge current
Thanks. Yep, that cap is very common on the 13. I'm usually delighted to find it and not even have to remove the battery!
Nice video! I leave the powerline caps out when blown in laptops i repair. I learned i lot from these videos
Lovely 23 minutes avoided wasting time watching tv, thank you Jason!
Im fairly new to this, come from chisel irons to micro stuff, fixed 2 out of 4 iphones so far! Between u n North Fix, I’ve learnt so much. Can you update your equipment list as I want to know what Tweezers you used? Not metal looking?
My equipment links really need updated. Here are these tweezers:
www.mobilesentrix.com/handmade-non-magnetic-stainless-tweezers-qianli
Glad to have you watching!
@@ststele top banana! Thanks. 😊
Your control of hot air is remarkable.
I have two fine tip soldering irons and I use them to put on the 0402 SMT parts. That way I avoid the use of hot air which tends to do unpleasant things.
Good to see you posting so regularly Jason. Now that Paul Daniels is in semi UA-cam retirement 😂 your repair videos are greatly appreciated. Love your great sense of humour, it’s brand spanking new
Hey Pedro, thank you! Hopefully Paul comes back around to UA-cam soon. I'm trying to post a brand spanking new video at least weekly but hopefully more! 🙂
Love your videos, wouldn't try this at home myself. You are very meticulous and do an absolutely awesome quality work!
Can you please tell me what kind of software were you using in the desktop to see the connection of the board?
Thanks for your video. I did the diode test and the reading are close to yours. But using 4VDC on the test points, I see a short on the main power line. So I guess I’m stuck at this point.
Great repair Jason. It must be very difficult to keep steady hands. Thanks.
Depending on how much coffee I’ve had, some times can be tougher than others! Thank u
Great job as always Jason. The customer will be very pleased 👏👏
I hope so! Thank you
This was the issue! Same Cap, pulled it right off and the phone starts right up. Thank you! Thank you!
Great job, I use to love working on small electronics till Osteoarthritis took over.
Happy New Year.
Really love your informative videos.
Great repair. Why don’t the pads get ripped off when you break off the broken cap?
Thank you! These hardly ever pull pads when doing it this way. I rake it off with a blade to protect NAND beside it. Once the old cap is gone, I can swap out the solder for something that melts much lower. Then the new cap can be soldered without risking nearby components. Some components have lines that don't have points all over the board though and would be really dangerous to do this way!
Well done Jason, stress me when you remove components with a knife and fear for a ripped pad. How do you not rip the pad?
This is one of those components that the pads hardly ever go when removed this way. Sometimes the pads can be damaged like this. When it’s something where it’s a hard to access line like something where the only other connection is under the CPU, I wouldn’t dare to use this method! Thanks 🙏
Jason is related to Edward Scissorhands 🤣 it’s in his DNA
Subscribed many moons ago Love this channel 🏆🏆🏆🏆👍👍👍👍
Thank you!! 🙏🙂
What is that usb ampmeter oscilliscope thing that you use? I need to get one of those.
Hi Mr STS, do you repair Samsung S7? It gets hot and keeps rebooting, not enough time to get pic and contacts off.
Which thermal camera is your favorite SuperCam X or TS plus?
What thermal camera do you use? Im facing a similair issue with an iPhone 13 aswell, but cant diagnose further without schematics or someway of finding shorted/bad components
hi congratulations for your videos!!!! what model is your ir thermal camera thanks
Wouldn't it be easier to use hot tweezers instead of the air for caps like that?
which board holder is that?
Really good work by here :)
U also can test the cam while phone is already locked
Thanks :) Didn't even think of it!
I don't know, if it was mentioned before, but what kind of flux are you using?Mine more liquid.
This is Chipquik SMD291
I've been looking for your charging tester for a while, and I don't seem to find it, can you please share the model? Thank you Sir !
I finally mentioned it at the beginning of a video I just posted. Sorry, this was sent to me by Union Repair but they no longer sell it. There should be something comparable on Amazon or from someplace else tho! I haven't tried any others though.
Thank you so mutch i will look and thank you for your youtube i look a lot and very intresting to see your work.what is the green you cover with?
Nice video Jason!
Can you tell me what's the name of your usb charger please! Thank you!
Please said me what kind of flux you use
Thank you so much it help me to fix my friend's phone i learn lot from you keep the good work brother❤❤
i just got on and could not find you lol i found you eventually , i would not miss this for the world lol. 😄
why after drop being short capcitor ? what timing or i don't know 🤔🤔
They can fail at random but also from physical impact. They’re ceramic so they crack/shatter. This cap is commonly cracked on the 13. I think it’s due to the location on the board and how the phone is assembled.
@@ststele oo okay maybe that why is fail
How do you tell the polarity of those tiny electrolytics?
They're ceramic, no polarity.
@@aetch77 How out of date am I? Thanks?
Hi there a phone came to me which is vdd boost short to ground i removed the power ic shield and a capacitor was shorted to ground and i removed, after that phone came back to life
But the problem is after i reballed the layer and switch on the nand line short to ground
I removed the layer and the problem exist pleae help
After injecting voltage cpu getting heat up
Just found your channel and love your videos! Does the capacitor needs to be replaced? In another video you left it out, that confused me a bit 😅
Where you get the software for phone and computer layout
This is ZXW tool in this video. Can buy from a handful of places. May need to use Google translate on camera mode to read Chinese and get through checkout process though!
What application is used to see the schematic?
This is ZXW tool in this video. Can be purchased from a handful of different places.
Good Video. Because of you and some others i got into board level repair. Thanks for that. Keep up that good work
Thank you! I'm glad to help.
Hi Jason, i was wondering if you have ever used cleaning swabs..Apparently they don't leave those annoying fibres behind when cleaning a board. Any way hope this new year is a great one for you and family. Thanks for all the great content so far. 👍👍
Another nice job thanks for sharing Jason. UV mask hardens faster if you also use a little bit of hotair 😉
You could make some "brand spanking new" merch out of that line. You say it a lot. 😆
Never seen a uv active solder
Another great repair Jason . nice to see you posting more often 👍
I’m trying not to go a week without posting! Hopefully post more than that though sometimes. Thank you for watching and commenting!
@@ststele looking forward to seeing them 👍
How do u know that heat hun heat will not pop up the underfill solder bulbs under the NAND ?
Only by staying way below the melting point of the alloy used under NAND. It’s why I broke the cap off with a blade, replaced the solder with something that melts much lower and then raised my temp a little to solder the replacement component. If I had removed that cap with hot air, not popping solder out around NAND would be tricky.
Thanks! 📱
Smashing repair as always Jason 😀
Those smd capacitors are a pain in the ass, a lot of laptops suffer with random shorting.
I dont know if the layer construction makes them brittle, Or is the soldering Temperature too high for some types.
I know nothing, just in woffle mode lol.
Yes indeed! These ceramic caps keep us in business tho. Hehe 😂 thanks
Hi jason, can you tell us what kind a flux are you using !? All i see around is the flux paste not like what you using
Thx for the great videos 🤍🥀
Hey, thanks for the compliment! This is Chipquik SMD291.
Heya, again a nice repair those flair infra red cameras are great have to get my self 1 or so
wow! i am parking here. Really good quality of repair.
You’re a wizard! Thank you so much for the content! Keep up the awesome work 👍👍👍
You do a great job with the video and your narrative!!! Thanks for posting!
I really appreciate the kind words! Thank you for watching & commenting.
Where do you buy the 200 degrees sea air? 😳 😁 Great work, love your vids
Just wait until summer down here! The air is almost 200 degrees the whole time then lol! Thanks 😬
Just in case u were really asking about my hot air station:
www.mobilesentrix.com/quick-861dw-hot-air-rework-station-quick-110v
Can probably find it cheaper tho!
I say it along with you now. “Apple logo”. Lol
Fighting a legion laptop atm. Its testing my patience!
I hope my Legion never craps out! That's what I'm using to record and edit most of these videos.
Well i found the short! Fried the new power management chip(original kaboom) .. but hey! Least my thermal cam caught the secondary chip heating up. Cant seem to id that chip. Might need to install board view software you use for the phones. Chip is unrecognizable and i don’t have a donor to save me this time.
The Magic is still there.
Good one Jason 🖖✌️🖖✌️🖖✌️🖖🎄🎄🎄🎄✌️
Thank you!! 🙏🙂
nice video, great repair...
I have had the same eXact problem yesterday. Apprently iphone 13 are prone to this type of issue.
Also I did not go straight to the thermal camera , but i split opened the board in 2, adding 2 h more of work ahahahah
BTW Great video bud as always!!
great video. thanks alot.
Thank you! I really appreciate you watching & commenting.
just noticed u were posting again! first time seeing a 13 opened... so I see since apple lost the fight to stop people repairing they countered by making screens break easier when attempted to repair...
Oh, they've done so much more! Almost everything is serialized now and causes "Unknown Part" messages to pop-up after 3rd party repair. I'm seeing small shops go out of business quite a bit now. Apple may claim to support repair but they quite blatantly rig it against repair. Good to see you here in my comments!
@@ststele oh yeah that sucks... they are copying how cars do it but for "theft" concerns. but at least in a car the ecm, bcm and other modules have relearn procedures to learn the new serial number of a replaced device and if necessary recalibrate. however most of those parts are OEM like from junkyards, ebay or dealer not 3rd party.
Tx sir
Oh sure you get all the easy repairs For new years lol Just joking.. What's the meter that you use ?
Yep! I’m just thrilled this board didn’t need separated. If it was a main short, the odds of needing separated are pretty high. This is a usb current meter that I got from union repair years ago. They don’t sell it anymore but surely there are similar models online. It’s just a usb current meter with graphing.
Nice bro 👍👍👍👍
Not "Rubbish"... Another job well done! Judging from your body language just a little longer processes then it should have been. Sometimes😡.
Hey, much appreciated! Yes too much time indeed. I normally fix this fault without even removing any stickers, let alone the whole board.
“Apple logo” Great repair I always cringe on screen removals
Thanks 🙂 Yah when these have never been opened it’s a slow process for me. Lots of heat and a little IPA. Have not managed to damage one this way.
@@ststele I love your screen jig
Good 👍
Amazing
Blip blip that's what i learned today
oh yeah we have apple logo😄😄😄😄
Another2023 success.
Sir I want to be your student I'm from Pakistan 😢
Slow down.
It's nice to see you back and posting regularly but at this rate you'll post for a couple more weeks and then go on another 9 month hiatus.
Gonna try really hard to keep that from happening. A lot has changed since then although I'm sure the content still looks the same! I really appreciate that you understand the human in me. Thank you. 🙏
A refurbished original capacitor is better quality than new from Ali.
I thought people would be losing their minds on me for putting a part out of an iPhone 6 in a 13 by now.. LOL :D
@@ststele You could have gone to the nearest Apple store, surely they have that cap in stock.
12, 12pro, 13 the power squid is reversed. 12PM, 13P and 13PM is normal.
Sorry, just commenting while watching the video :)
Mmmhmmmm, if I wasn't hunched over a tripod + clicking lights off and on, I would not have made such a silly mistake. LOL :-) Thank you for watching & commenting.
@@ststele interesting how that cap was cracked. I have noticed the 13 model ripping off all the pads in that inner corner area when dropped. I believe the board flexes a lot there. Also had lots of cases where the pads were ripped through the layers on 13s and the only sane thing was a core board swap. Happen several times, they get really bad when dropped, more like any other iphone model
OUWWWWWW. it's hot! i love that :)
ALL power connectors should be polarized, regardless, but....Apple
Hehehe butthead good job
juicy lol
Awesome rubbish!
Hehehe - Thank you 🙏
Nice, very helpful tips thank you 🫡