Nice effect. I have used wood stain in the past and that works well too. Removed numbers first, picked a light wood stain and put several coats on to darken. Then reapply number transfers.
Neat video, will come in handy for my own stock, cheers. Though I'm not sure you did the right thing with the underframes; according to the LNER forums, the official paint diagrams for coaching stock had teak painted solebars.
Back when I was doing physical model making, the usual rule of thumb was to paint the model to a lower level of glossiness than the real thing. Similarly, the colour would be slightly greyer. Both are because the air between you and the object isn't to scale. There were a couple of shots which looked off because of the high gloss on the model after varnishing. Those ventilator panels at some angles looked almost white. This particular effect isn't about whether the vehicle is clean or dirty, though a slightly greyed roof would look better than perfect white. That's partly my experience of CGI models. For the lighting engine to work well, there has to be a bit of room at the ends of the scale from minimum brightness to maximum. Painting a model, how do you highlight that perfect bright white? (There's a similar problem with traditional photography. The range from black to white is limited by the whiteness of the paper.)
Thank you The paint for the teak is made by citadel and the full name is seraphim sepia, they sell it in the Games Workshop shops and you can buy it on line from amazon and ebay. It is for getting into all the nooks and crannies of models and high lighting the detail. I think it does this well on the Hornby plastic teak coaches and it is very easy to brush. Make sure you mix it well.
Your LNER teak coaches look really life like. The finish is 1st class. Well done sir . 👍
Nice effect. I have used wood stain in the past and that works well too. Removed numbers first, picked a light wood stain and put several coats on to darken. Then reapply number transfers.
A very good way to do it I think I will do the same.
Cracking job Clive, you have given me loads of inspiration to start mine. Glynn
thanks Glynn simple paint job = a good upgrade for these look good in a rake just done another 2!
Nice job clive
very nice
Neat video, will come in handy for my own stock, cheers.
Though I'm not sure you did the right thing with the underframes; according to the LNER forums, the official paint diagrams for coaching stock had teak painted solebars.
Teak NATURALLY turns orange as do many woods after varnishing. Other woods turn dark brown to reddish black..
Back when I was doing physical model making, the usual rule of thumb was to paint the model to a lower level of glossiness than the real thing. Similarly, the colour would be slightly greyer. Both are because the air between you and the object isn't to scale.
There were a couple of shots which looked off because of the high gloss on the model after varnishing. Those ventilator panels at some angles looked almost white.
This particular effect isn't about whether the vehicle is clean or dirty, though a slightly greyed roof would look better than perfect white. That's partly my experience of CGI models. For the lighting engine to work well, there has to be a bit of room at the ends of the scale from minimum brightness to maximum. Painting a model, how do you highlight that perfect bright white?
(There's a similar problem with traditional photography. The range from black to white is limited by the whiteness of the paper.)
Nice job. What would do you think that sepia paint is.
Thank you The paint for the teak is made by citadel and the full name is seraphim sepia, they sell it in the Games Workshop shops and you can buy it on line from amazon and ebay. It is for getting into all the nooks and crannies of models and high lighting the detail. I think it does this well on the Hornby plastic teak coaches and it is very easy to brush. Make sure you mix it well.