Man I have been waiting for this video, where the hell is the RAB valve at? I have a constant red brake light and amber ABS light on my 96 2wd ranger most of the time but my brakes work fine? I replaced sensor on pumpkin checked the brake reservoir level. The weird thing is the light goes out on occasion for a bit especially if its rainy or extra humid (I'm in Florida its still hot and humid), I had similar issues with my ECM box which I cleared by cleaning contacts. Id love to sit in your courses your a great instructor!
Hi, I talked to you 2 years ago about my 1989 Ford ranger rear antilock hydrologic unit. You were very helpful. One of the things you told me was to check for grounds. I never could find the grounds so I've still had the problem but, I've replaced the oxygen sensor and found a black wire that isn't connected. I check for voltage and it came up 4.4. Do you think that might be a positive ground for antilock unit. Thank you
Hello there, found your video, super helpful. I have a 93 ranger, and i had replaced the master cylinder and no lights were on. I replaced the hydraulic valve and my abs light and brake light are on. I pulled a code 4 when doing the test. I got a remanufactured hydraulic unit from O'Reillys and i read one of the reviews on their website that the pins were switched. I did measure the resistances of both the new unit and old unit and they were similar, not exact. What is the pin order? Did Ford reverse the pin orders when going to RABS II? I have RABS I right? Thanks for any help!
Good video....Would a bad white resistor prevent the brake lights from illuminating? I have that exact same Ranger in the video and the brake lights won't work I've checked the fuses, relays replaced the brake pedal switch, ran a jumper wire at the switch connector all in vain.....any suggestions would be appreciated...thanks
Sr, cuistian I would also like to know if this ABS resistor, can somehow activate the light of "Over-Drive" affecting some function in the operability of my ford ranger? Jesus from pto la cruz-venezuela thanks
I have a 1996 with a code (12 flashes). I have power to the wire closest to front of truck. Ground wire is good. Switch is normally open, isnt it? I can push down on float and it doesnt seem to switch (no continuity between either 2 pins on master cylinder switcg. Fluid level is good. Cleaned connectors at MC. Will codes clear automatically or do i need to clear it?
On those, you'll need to disconnect the battery to clear it - earlier RABS systems didn't store the code, but that one does. Actually, when the fluid is low, it shorts the other two wires to ground, so yes, it's open in that regard. If you disconnect that connector and use s piece of small solder (don't damage the terminals) to connect the two non-grounded pins, you can check it that way.
Thanks - here's a link to the original guide published by Ford in Service Life Magazine back in the 1990s 1drv.ms/b/s!AhZ0SELccIVIgaAVlB_a3cAgw-LqhQ?e=sURLVg
Hey McCuistian, I’ve got a 94 Mazda b4000 that has been flashing abs at me and brake light always illuminates. The abs flashes 4 times constantly even after I replaced the sensor and tried to reset it altogether. If you have any ideas for me I’d love to hear them. I know it’s pretty broad, but I’m looking for any help I can get on it lately. The brake lights and tail lights don’t work either, replaced fuse for them even though it wasn’t blown and still did nothing. Headlights and signals work, super confusing to me!
The RABS valve - the one with the two solenoids - can cause that code and warning light if the valve's internal circuitry connected to the light-blue/red wire is faulty inside the RABS valve - or if that wire is chafing against ground or broken it will cause that. Make sure the light-blue red wire that runs from the RABS valve to pin 6 on the module isn't broken or shorted to ground before replacing the RABS valve - but the RABS valve itself will cause that if that resistor is open. The ABS module feeds 5 volts on that wire to the RABS valve, which has an internal 18,000 ohm resistor that pulls the 5 volts to about 1.9 volts under normal circumstances - if there's air in the system, that circuit is grounded inside the RABS valve and, that can cause this code and the light too, but if your brake pedal is high and firm, it isn't likely to be a problem with air in the brake lines. Warning: Don't rush out and buy a part before you make sure it isn't a wiring problem!!! Usually people ignore everything I tell them about checking the wiring and they rush out and buy the part first. Which is the wrong way to go about it unless you have money to burn.
trucks flashing code 11. replaced sensor on top of rear diff and sensor behind brake pedal. still poppin code 11. 3rd brake light illuminates with door up but not while pressing brake pedal. any thoughts??
That usually means the brake light bulbs are blown - typically it shows up on Aerostars and Rangers that have orange turn signals and red brake lights - both the regular brake lights are out for some reason - the RABS module looks for a ground through the bulbs and if it doesn't see one, it assumes you're going 40 mph with the brake pedal pressed.
@@McCuistian all lights work as they should. i hear and read conflicting info on the 3rd brake light.some say it only illuminates with door open.others say it illuminates with brake pedal..hence the reason its called a 3rd brake light. with that said, it only works with door open, does nothong with door closed and pedal pressed
Greetings Mr. Cuistian I am having a problem with my rear anti lock light staying on to my 1990 f250. I tried to get code to flash by grounding the terminal to the left of the brake pedal but will not flash at all it just stays light. I took it to mechanic as well and he could not get any reading as well. My brake pedal is spongy as well which I wish to correct once I can get a read out from the RABS system in diagnosing the problem. Any help would much be appreciated in what to do next to find the problem.
RABS (rear antilock brakes) doesn't usually cause a spongy pedal - if it does, it'll usually be a problem with the RABS valve itself and you won't find that by flashing codes. Before you replace ANY parts though, you need to be sure that there's no air in the system, and sometimes it takes quite a bit of bleeding to get all the air out. Pursue that to the end before you start looking for a RABS problem.
Mr. Cuistian thanks so much for your reply. I did bleed (RR, LR, HCU, RF, LF) the brakes today they did get stiffer when the engine is off. When turn on the engine to engage vacuum power brake booster, I hear a hissing sound when I pump the brake pedal coming from the firewall where the vacuum shaft attaches to the pedal. After turning the engine off if I pump the pedal a couple of times the pedal becomes stiff again and hissing sound goes away. So, when engine running spongy brake pedal, when not running it stiff again after couple pumps. I would assume I have a bad diaphragm? Would that also give reason for anti lock light staying on?
@@sirjustus3770 No, but that's indication of a bad brake booster. The ABS light on those only has a few causes - the most likely cause would be the sensor in the rear end - they fail a lot and don't cost much - and they're easy to replace. But you need to find out why it won't flash a code.
Mr. Cuistian regards my name is Jesus, I am in Venezuela where it is very difficult to get spare parts ford, can I replace the RESISTOR ABS with a normal resistance? What kind of resistance can I use to replace it? (specify ohms and type of resistance) my Ford ford ranger 2001 automatic engine OHV 6 cil. thank you very much for your contribution greetings from pto la cruz-venezuela.-
I have a 1994 F350 Diesel rabs valve has a creeping pedal can't figure out why new master brake booster front rear calipers wheel cylinders rotors drums shoes pads everything's new valves new need help
Hi, I have a 1989 Ford ranger with rear antilock brakes. The brake and anti brake lights stay on. I have replaced the master cylinter, brake booster, hydraulic valve, speed sensor,and bled brakes numerous times. Going to check codes next. Do you have any suggestions.
Thank you so much for answering me, you are the only one that knows what they are doing. I did check the power at the master cylinder switch, no power running to it, I am going to check codes tomorrow. Thank you so much
@@dannycarlile4797 Code 4 is a closed RABS valve switch - check for a bad valve reset switch or wiring shorted to ground - repair the wiring, since you've already replaced the valve. It could be shorted or open and you could have loose pin fit or bad connector crimps on that wire.
@@ScottysVise that code is not telling you what's wrong it's telling you there's no problem and that may be a problem with the ABS module itself. Hard to say without checking every wire...
Man I have been waiting for this video, where the hell is the RAB valve at? I have a constant red brake light and amber ABS light on my 96 2wd ranger most of the time but my brakes work fine? I replaced sensor on pumpkin checked the brake reservoir level. The weird thing is the light goes out on occasion for a bit especially if its rainy or extra humid (I'm in Florida its still hot and humid), I had similar issues with my ECM box which I cleared by cleaning contacts. Id love to sit in your courses your a great instructor!
Very good !!!
Hi, I talked to you 2 years ago about my 1989 Ford ranger rear antilock hydrologic unit. You were very helpful. One of the things you told me was to check for grounds. I never could find the grounds so I've still had the problem but, I've replaced the oxygen sensor and found a black wire that isn't connected. I check for voltage and it came up 4.4. Do you think that might be a positive ground for antilock unit. Thank you
Where is this black wire? It sounds like a disconnected ground for sure with that kind of voltage on it
Hello there, found your video, super helpful. I have a 93 ranger, and i had replaced the master cylinder and no lights were on. I replaced the hydraulic valve and my abs light and brake light are on. I pulled a code 4 when doing the test. I got a remanufactured hydraulic unit from O'Reillys and i read one of the reviews on their website that the pins were switched. I did measure the resistances of both the new unit and old unit and they were similar, not exact.
What is the pin order? Did Ford reverse the pin orders when going to RABS II? I have RABS I right? Thanks for any help!
Did you fix it?😮
@rickymack01 yup I did. I replaced the hydraulic unit again and it worked fine.
Good video....Would a bad white resistor prevent the brake lights from illuminating? I have that exact same Ranger in the video and the brake lights won't work I've checked the fuses, relays replaced the brake pedal switch, ran a jumper wire at the switch connector all in vain.....any suggestions would be appreciated...thanks
That resistor won't cause that... Got power to the stoplight switch?
thanks
Sr, cuistian I would also like to know if this ABS resistor, can somehow activate the light of "Over-Drive" affecting some function in the operability of my ford ranger? Jesus from pto la cruz-venezuela thanks
Not as far as I know
Ok sounds good, Thank you so much
I have a 1996 with a code (12 flashes). I have power to the wire closest to front of truck. Ground wire is good. Switch is normally open, isnt it? I can push down on float and it doesnt seem to switch (no continuity between either 2 pins on master cylinder switcg.
Fluid level is good. Cleaned connectors at MC.
Will codes clear automatically or do i need to clear it?
On those, you'll need to disconnect the battery to clear it - earlier RABS systems didn't store the code, but that one does. Actually, when the fluid is low, it shorts the other two wires to ground, so yes, it's open in that regard. If you disconnect that connector and use s piece of small solder (don't damage the terminals) to connect the two non-grounded pins, you can check it that way.
Great video! I know it's been quite some time but I would love to have that list of codes if possible
Thanks - here's a link to the original guide published by Ford in Service Life Magazine back in the 1990s 1drv.ms/b/s!AhZ0SELccIVIgaAVlB_a3cAgw-LqhQ?e=sURLVg
@McCuistian Thank you so much, I really appreciate the quick response
@@happyrockAg My pleasure!
Hey McCuistian, I’ve got a 94 Mazda b4000 that has been flashing abs at me and brake light always illuminates. The abs flashes 4 times constantly even after I replaced the sensor and tried to reset it altogether. If you have any ideas for me I’d love to hear them. I know it’s pretty broad, but I’m looking for any help I can get on it lately. The brake lights and tail lights don’t work either, replaced fuse for them even though it wasn’t blown and still did nothing. Headlights and signals work, super confusing to me!
The RABS valve - the one with the two solenoids - can cause that code and warning light if the valve's internal circuitry connected to the light-blue/red wire is faulty inside the RABS valve - or if that wire is chafing against ground or broken it will cause that. Make sure the light-blue red wire that runs from the RABS valve to pin 6 on the module isn't broken or shorted to ground before replacing the RABS valve - but the RABS valve itself will cause that if that resistor is open. The ABS module feeds 5 volts on that wire to the RABS valve, which has an internal 18,000 ohm resistor that pulls the 5 volts to about 1.9 volts under normal circumstances - if there's air in the system, that circuit is grounded inside the RABS valve and, that can cause this code and the light too, but if your brake pedal is high and firm, it isn't likely to be a problem with air in the brake lines. Warning: Don't rush out and buy a part before you make sure it isn't a wiring problem!!! Usually people ignore everything I tell them about checking the wiring and they rush out and buy the part first. Which is the wrong way to go about it unless you have money to burn.
@@McCuistian I really appreciate the help! I’ll check the wiring first thing👍🏼 Thank you!
trucks flashing code 11. replaced sensor on top of rear diff and sensor behind brake pedal. still poppin code 11. 3rd brake light illuminates with door up but not while pressing brake pedal. any thoughts??
That usually means the brake light bulbs are blown - typically it shows up on Aerostars and Rangers that have orange turn signals and red brake lights - both the regular brake lights are out for some reason - the RABS module looks for a ground through the bulbs and if it doesn't see one, it assumes you're going 40 mph with the brake pedal pressed.
@@McCuistian all lights work as they should. i hear and read conflicting info on the 3rd brake light.some say it only illuminates with door open.others say it illuminates with brake pedal..hence the reason its called a 3rd brake light. with that said, it only works with door open, does nothong with door closed and pedal pressed
It's on the passenger side where the oxygen sensor is next to the starter. Should I ground it to the starter. Thank you
What size is the eyelet on the wire?
Greetings Mr. Cuistian I am having a problem with my rear anti lock light staying on to my 1990 f250. I tried to get code to flash by grounding the terminal to the left of the brake pedal but will not flash at all it just stays light. I took it to mechanic as well and he could not get any reading as well. My brake pedal is spongy as well which I wish to correct once I can get a read out from the RABS system in diagnosing the problem. Any help would much be appreciated in what to do next to find the problem.
RABS (rear antilock brakes) doesn't usually cause a spongy pedal - if it does, it'll usually be a problem with the RABS valve itself and you won't find that by flashing codes. Before you replace ANY parts though, you need to be sure that there's no air in the system, and sometimes it takes quite a bit of bleeding to get all the air out. Pursue that to the end before you start looking for a RABS problem.
Mr. Cuistian thanks so much for your reply. I did bleed (RR, LR, HCU, RF, LF) the brakes today they did get stiffer when the engine is off. When turn on the engine to engage vacuum power brake booster, I hear a hissing sound when I pump the brake pedal coming from the firewall where the vacuum shaft attaches to the pedal. After turning the engine off if I pump the pedal a couple of times the pedal becomes stiff again and hissing sound goes away. So, when engine running spongy brake pedal, when not running it stiff again after couple pumps. I would assume I have a bad diaphragm? Would that also give reason for anti lock light staying on?
@@sirjustus3770 No, but that's indication of a bad brake booster. The ABS light on those only has a few causes - the most likely cause would be the sensor in the rear end - they fail a lot and don't cost much - and they're easy to replace. But you need to find out why it won't flash a code.
Mr. Cuistian regards my name is Jesus, I am in Venezuela where it is very difficult to get spare parts ford, can I replace the RESISTOR ABS with a normal resistance? What kind of resistance can I use to replace it? (specify ohms and type of resistance) my Ford ford ranger 2001 automatic engine OHV 6 cil. thank you very much for your contribution greetings from pto la cruz-venezuela.-
That resistor is 10,000 ohms. :) Greetings to you sir!
I have a 1994 F350 Diesel rabs valve has a creeping pedal can't figure out why new master brake booster front rear calipers wheel cylinders rotors drums shoes pads everything's new valves new need help
How did you end up repairing your issue?
Hi, I have a 1989 Ford ranger with rear antilock brakes. The brake and anti brake lights stay on. I have replaced the master cylinter, brake booster, hydraulic valve, speed sensor,and bled brakes numerous times. Going to check codes next. Do you have any suggestions.
I would definitely check the codes - you likely should have done that first - it may be a wiring or connector pin fit issue.
Thank you so much for answering me, you are the only one that knows what they are doing. I did check the power at the master cylinder switch, no power running to it, I am going to check codes tomorrow. Thank you so much
Good afternoon, I got the code 4, I checked the master cylinder and have no power, any suggestions, thank you very much
@@dannycarlile4797 Code 4 is a closed RABS valve switch - check for a bad valve reset switch or wiring shorted to ground - repair the wiring, since you've already replaced the valve. It could be shorted or open and you could have loose pin fit or bad connector crimps on that wire.
Ok, I will do that, I want to thank you for your help, I appreciate you. Wish you were in my town, Thanks
Hello, my 2000 ford ranger flashes 16 times when I check for the Abs code. Abs light stays on. What should I look for? Thank you
Typically that 16 code means no problems are detected - is your red brake light on too?
@@McCuistian only the abs light stays on.
@@ScottysVise that code is not telling you what's wrong it's telling you there's no problem and that may be a problem with the ABS module itself. Hard to say without checking every wire...
Ok thanks for the info. If I find the issue I'll report back. Have a good day.
It's just steed a little
Should I ground the wire
Build a fused jumper wire first an ground it with that to see if it blows the fuse or fixes it.
I meant strpped