Honda CR-V DOHC P0304 DOUBLE TROUBLE
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- Опубліковано 2 чер 2024
- Honda CR-V DOHC P0304 DOUBLE TROUBLE. I got into this one and found the timing belt had been put on wrong AND it didn't have the valves adjusted on time resulting in an exhaust valve failure on the far end cylinder #4 exhaust valve.
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What I like most about these videos. Is your demeanor. Never pissed
Kudos for seeing the job done to the end. I am on my third trip to the dealership for some warranty transmission work. My patience is running thin. It couldn't have been a better time for you to post this video. Keep up the good work, Brian.
Kudos for the positive attitude after all said and done, I would have been cursing the hell out of it
Just got around to seeing this and I must say great work in both the vid and your meticulous explanation of the procedure
i learn so much from you mate ! thankyou!
It's good to know we still have pod and honest people out in the world:) thanks so much sir.
Great video man! Thanks for posting this, and I am glad you got this working for the owner!
Dude you would be my mechanic in a heartbeat if I lived in your neck of the woods!
Nice video covered all the things amateurs need to know. The one that I think would be challenging to change is the chains on newer Honda's because you have to deal with cam timing vvt adjuster and the oil pressure tension ratchet adjuster. All good stuff to digest before you even pop the cover. Mostly you find these on K series engines.
Love the Ron Paul poster!
This was awesome! thank you. I'll be tearing down again in the morning. Replacing a shredded timing belt today was quite a task - to say the least. It was my first time and I'm happy to say that it actually started and ran down the road. It idled pretty low but smooth and even stalled one time - so I must be close - just not close enough. I know that the timing belt alignment is off, as I notice that TDC was difficult to achieve especially when you try to align the cranks with a 12mm. I know I'm off a little. The great thing is that all the bolts will come off easy next time. Your demonstration would have saved me a lot of time. I found a yeehaw on youtube who kinda had it right but was missing the screwdrive/dillbit TDC trick on the cams. I wish I seen it myself, but it started raining around the time I was mounting the belt- kinda hurry a little bit in the rain. Thank you. I'll try to stop back to let you know how I made out.
Worked great! Thank you. It took a 3/16" drill bit each to hold the two cams with a little play. The Crank didn't line up as perfect by the guide line and arrow, but close enough. It runs smooth with an idle 500 RPM. This video really helped out a lot. 10 hours on the first run, and after watching this, it took only 4 hours - includes an oil change.
Kirk Frederick
oh, and the spring on the tensioner seems to pull an adjuster back to loosen it as the tensioner bolt is loosened. As you tighten it the adjuster moves into position and pulls the timing belt tight. You really don't have to pry against the tensioner at all - it works all by itself by design and works great. It's actually a brilliant work of engineering.
lol Looks like you've been busy- hopefully having a good time!
I replaced my timing belt on my 2001 CRV. It had 187,000 miles and still looked brand new. The way Honda recommends installing the timing belt is to have the crank and cams spot timing, pin the cams, then wrap the timing belt around the crank, then around the tensioner (tightened to full relaxed position) the water pump, then partly onto the exhaust cam taking all slack from exhaust cam to crank. then slip onto the intake cam. Then you rotate the crank counter clockwise 6 full turns and stop on your timing mark . check to make sure cams are on timing marks. Loosen tensioner bolt, turn crank counter clockwise to bring slack to tensioner side 3 notches of the crankshaft and then tighten the tensioner bolt.
Awesome video. Very thorough and detailed. Thanks for this vid.
Great detailed video for the crv timing belt I would have liked to actually see you pull apart the Waterpump and belt though
I just snug it up to make sure all of the slack is out and then let the spring hold the tension. Then tighten the bolt and then twist the longest run from the cam to the crank gears and make sure it can't turn more than 90 degrees.
You're welcome- great to hear from you.
Excellent video Brian...keep it up
Thank you for your time
Also, thanks for all the great videos!
Brian, i used to have a Kawaski Z-1, and the cam chain was installed by counting the teeth from intake to exhaust to be sure the cams were timed properly
Thank you very much! I just read some troll comments- it's nice to get positive feedback like this.
great video / good lighting
Another great, informative video!
I subscribed because of the Ron Paul poster.
GREAT JOB MY BROTHER!!!!!
I've seen this problem with first gen CR-Vs. Then I did this job for a friend, the cam was actually lose and I was able to turn it with my hand. So I think that tight cam pulley was caused by the tight exhaust valves. The car I worked on burned the exhaust valve at 120K miles - couple of years later after replacing the timing belt. The way I like to set the belt tensioner is to put it and and bend the cloth hanger and use it to hook the spring end and pull into the position.
Great video as always. Thanks. Are the CRV's pretty good cars. I realize it's a Honda. But are there any model specific issues? Been thinking of getting a CRV.
Thanks
Nice job. I've got a 2008 CRV that I was adjusting the valves on and decided to do a compression check because it had been missing. 3 cylinder head 190 PSI but number two was only a hundred and twenty. It had been setting a check engine light for p0172 which is rich exhaust or fuel trim reading. I would assume the exhaust valve is leaking which would be consistent with both of those conditions. I've done a ton of research online but haven't really found any problems like this on the 2007 through 2011 CRV like they had on the earlier model CRV. Since you're a Honda technician I wonder if you've heard of valve problems on this later model? Thanks again for your great write-up
Brian you do great work bro! A true professional...
Thanks and thanks for the feedback.
Very helpful video.
I haven't use a machine shop for a subaru job like this since.... yesterday. And that was the third one this month.
Nice video . Good for other B series Acura / Honda engine like Integra B18B engine too. Your method of setting the tensioner is not quite what the manual describes but it obviously works. However, I followed the method in the manual . Thanks for making for these very helpful automotive repair videos.
Great video!
Brian, you're my only hope. I did a timing belt on a 96 integra. Pretty much the same motor. I line up the timing marks for the crank using the oil pump housing, I put them dead on with the cams. I locked the cams in place with drill bits, the works. But, the harmonic balancer TDC mark was off by a bit. I ran it, didn't bend any valves so it's not off by much, but I have all sorts of misfire codes. Can I adjust the timing with the distributor or do I need to go back and line up the balancer?
just watching this i feel so frustrated. you go to all that work and fix things that need to be fixed and believe it will solve the problem and it turns out you have been foiled!!! but seriously, u do good work.
Just changed a timing belt on a x14xe Astra g. Markings are aligned and tension is correct. The tensioner pointer shakes a bit while the engine is running. Is this normal?
Doesnt get any better than that. Thanks !!
for a dohc engine after putting timing belt back at first im getting resistance to turn from crank 6 oclock postion. i mean when in tdc im turning from crank at 6 oclock. so from 6 to one quarter of movement i need to put some force to make it spin but after that it spins easily till it finds resistance again. i may be wrong but im feeling a little hard to move it from 6 oclock tdc. is this because of valves spring tension? i have spark plugs off and accesory belt off too. i already changed the oil but not the filter yet i made sure my cams were lubricated too. before putting belt i rotated crankshaft 90 degrees so it would not damage my valves and rotated both cams with no problems and make sure the crank rotated also before putting my cylinder head. thanks for any suggestions. the car is a daewoo 2001 leganza. thank you!
I had a REALLY stuck one recently. Let me see if I have any footage from that. They're supposed to just pull off by hand. I had to weld nuts on the face of the above mentioned one and use a bolt puller to get it off.
do the cam pinholes hold the cams in position when putting the timing belt on?
These more advanced repairs are great, Brian. You addressed a question I've always wondered about. Is it fair to say that the tight side is found by learning which way the engine rotates, then observing that power comes from a pulling action from the crank (on the tight side)? Is your point that the tight side is always to the front a reliable rule?
Brian, couldn't you bring the head to a machine shop for a valve job or would you just go for a recond. one?
hey briansmoblie1
i was looking at buying a 98 honda crv. the dude selling it it saying it has a flat spot and needs max advanced timing to run. any ideas? thanks Troy
Good work
There are a couple of service bulletins on this issue. Anyway great video love the detail you put into it and wow is that intake valve toast!!
Love the video. Question: Aren't you supposed to get the crank marks exact or are you have going' to adjust the distributor to get the timing dead on. I am doing the timing belt on this exact engine right now and can't get the marks to line up either but always thought you could. I wondered if there is a way around not having the crank marks exact. Please help!
Great and funny vid!
Hi Brian! Great job!!!!! How can you tell that the timing belt tension is correct at this one? There is no pointer or similar. Manuals tell you to use expensive tools for tension setting... So confused.. Thanks
Even with the cam timing off a bit, one other way to check if it was cam timing or a valve problem would have been (with #4 at TDC), check that the valves for that cylinder weren’t being held open - even back off the adjusters until you have some play in the rockers - then repeat your test. If it’s still leaking air, it’s not cam timing.
Thank you for replay.. but what if a other make car has no spring? You use 90 degrees rule? Thanks
Good job bro
GM side post batteries can be a PITA. Clean the battery cables and remove the cable boots checking for corrosion. Also check the main body ground and the engine block ground as well. There is a possible that the alternator exciter wire was damaged or that the wreck was enough to damage something inside of the alternator. Autozone and O'Reiley can not check the Ecotec alternators for some reason.
P.S. If the headlight attaches to a plastic headlight header it is very likely broken.
Brian i got another quick question, i got in a very minor fender bender, the day before (it was there fault) the girl ran into my driver side bumper, all it did was crack the bumper and broke the head light, but after that the charging light came on and off so i tested it the battery was good at12.5 volts but when i started it up it dropped to 12, and then when i turned the blower and head lights on it went down to 11.5 11.8 and stayed there, the alternator was fine before it.....
I have an unrelated question. Do you use an impact wrench? I don't recall ever seeing you use one.
amazing how little power it takes
Hi, do you know what year that CRV you are working on is?
wish you would have shown how to get the crankshaft pulley off
Like the G.W.B #43 poster
what is the average cost of what your doing new water pump, tensioner, belt
Continuation- would a minor fender bender cause the alternator to "malfunction" it split into two parts but ill have to take another look it was dark (just now) and i was getting flustered, i was looking at pictures of a 03 cavalier alternator and it seems like mine has a bigger gap some wheres on the alternator, just wondering what your take on it was??
Could the engine being out of time by one tooth on the cam have caused the valve to contact the cylinder and damage it?
How likely is it to find these problems on used CRVs? like a 10 year old 120K miles CRV...
I am a tech at a local Honda dealer here and almost every first gen CRV I have seen will eventually need a Head or complete Motor. Putting a brand new Head on a motor with 100 to 200k miles isnt good for the bottom end. Hence a complete engine replacement. Problem is that buying a used engine you run the risk of the same problem happening soon after replacement. Honda just had a poor design with the valve train on the B20 series engines.
what will happen if you put belt on wrong ? and how to fix it ?
OMG, Brian, I thought you were going to open it up and find out they put the belt on inside out. I've seen dealers make some pretty dumb mistakes. Of course the customer probably wouldn't have made it out of their parking lot but that would have been hilarious.
W up bro where can got good timer belt kit and the crankshaft sensor where can got good parts my Honda CR-V 2000 ex 5 speed foot Joe bro thank you video
Are you going to replace the cylinder head or just the bad valve?
what is your opinion on drive by wire throttles?
I just did my timing belt on my 1997 Honda CRV rotated at six times with tensioner loose top dead center I tighten the tensioner should I have backed it off three three teeth on the gear then tighten it like you say I will I be okay I just don't want it to jump time any help would be greatly appreciated
GMB generally work very well on these.
I hate that led flashlight.It washes out the picture so we can't see.The laser pointer mucho better..Doesn't that camera have a light on it?
I bet you get alot of business working on cars since u been online doing these videos. You are detail oriented and that's what i like in a mechanic/technician...
Do you need a special tool to remove the crankshaft pulley? Would you recommend Genuine Honda for any parts or will aftermarket last the 7 years and 105k?
Actually no.. The trick is loosening the bolt. I imagine there is a tool out there somewhere, but is it worth the one-time-use-tool. I just took off the flywheel cover (small black plate with 4 10mm bolts and 1 17mm bolt) just left of the engine. You notice there are hole that you can just fit a small flat head screw drive, then advance the flywheel counterclockwise until you can wedge the screw drive against an engine part - then go ahead and loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt. I had to use 5' pipe on the end of my 1/2 drive socket wrench to crack it loose. It tool a lot of power to do it too. Once it broke loose the bolt came out and the pulley just slides off. No pulley puller required. Just make sure you don't lose the small 1/8"x1/8"x3/8" pulley key or you'll be very mad at yourself. Good luck.
Those cam pins sure are a slick idea. I wouldn't worry about the marks as long as the bars are up before pins are in.
This should be done every 100K and never put off replacing the water pump when you have it this far down.
Also make sure to drain and flush your Honda cooling system at its earliest interval recommended in the owners Manual or I would say once a year or cycle of seasons. This is to slow the decay that occurs on the aluminum from the breakdown of your coolant.
Have a deuce running like shit? Do the whole seafoam treatment. That stuff is not a gimmick. Get around the folks with big boats for going out deep sea fishing or that kind of watercraft. They use the stuff a lot. Its not that fake octane booster BS.
Seafoam knocks out a lot of carbon buildup and varnish. Heard knocking valves go silent with it. It gets my backing for any gear head to use.
Since Honda's use a CVCC engine design with interference. It it possible the timing belt broke or the tech put it in wrong the first time to break the valve?
good luck bud, what a pain in the ass. you would think the dealer of all people would do it right.
I do try to. Thanks for noticing ; )
Any big job that I spent hundreds in parts and machining I bill at least that or half the total up front if it's someone is unestablished with me, or if I really don't want the car or if anything warrants it. That way if they die, cut bait, or whatever I don't feel it financially. It's an anxiety/stress thing for me, but it's almost never needed. Just a comfort with some commitment.
What year model is this car...?
Hey. On this vehicle, is there a way to pull of just the belt cover to check the belt itself for wear instead of pulling off the whole valve cover? The reason I am asking is I am looking to buy one this weekend and the seller says the best has recently been changed but has no paperwork to prove it. I want to check it out without messing up the valve cover gasket.
They made it so you have to take off the valve cover in order to make you set up for valve adjustment at the same time. It's possible, but you'll break things.
I figured. Lame. Thanks though.
I wish I knew those cam pin holes were there a year ago, nice info.
BTW... Water pump- I was told "only buy a Honda replacement or else it will leak." After researching, that is not entirely true. You can buy a no-name replacement, but it MUST be from the country of manufacture (in this case Japan, NOT China). Reason being the tiny difference in metal content causes different rates of thermal expansion/contraction in comparison to the block, resulting in a leak. Just thought I would share.
Never heard that but it makes sense. Especially with aluminum that is super sensitive to heat.
you wont re-use head studs right ?
If you want a general rule it's this. Whichever side has the tensioner is the slack side. Whichever doesn't is the slack side. You'll find there's usually one side that's a straight shot from the crank to the cam. That will always be your tension side.
Hey Brian-Did you ever determine the root cause of the burnt valve? Cause I had this EXACT thing happen to my 2001 CR-V, only the problem started right after I got my timing belt changed. Started running bad, making a rattling sound. Ultimately, I lost compression on the fourth cylinder, took the head out and discovered I had a burnt exhaust valve. I'm just about finished installing a rebuilt head, but now I'm concerned that I may not have addressed the main problem! Did you decide that it was the skipped tooth that led to all these other issue? I'm pretty sure my timing is good, but I'll have to check again. Thanks!
I have a 1998 CR-V that started to make a rattling sound after the timing belt was replaced by someone else. I pulled off the cylinder cover, rotated the crank and saw slack coming up on the belt each time it comes around on the cams. I'm in the process of resetting the belt now using Brian's video as a guide. I'll post again once it's done and let you know if the noise is gone. Hopefully I don't have a burned up valve as well! I'm planning a compression check right after this job is done.
Why hello ... Yeah, shortly after I posted that I discovered that the timing belt had indeed been installed incorrectly, off by a tooth-didn't slip or anything, they just messed up the job. And to think, when the engine died, the same mechanic suggested I sell the car to his buddy for $300! Well, after replacing the whole damn cylinder head with help from a good friend of mine, I drove the car back over to the mechanic (about two months since I'd last seen him) with a letter in hand, rehashing all the services I'd had done at their shop, the concerns I'd raised (which were ignored), and the evidence I'd compiled to prove he was at fault. At the end of letter, I asked for $1,000 as compensation for the trouble he'd caused me (far less than the actual dollar amount of this headache) and to his credit, he wrote me a check right then and there, no argument. It proved to be a long and costly debacle, but I learned a lot, and I wouldn't change a thing! :)
... But you didn't ask about any of that. For what it's worth, I drove my car for a couple of months and many thousands of miles (across the country and back) with bad timing before the engine finally died. Hopefully you caught yours soon enough that there wasn't any serious damage caused! :)
Wow, that's quite an adventure to go through! I'm glad you were able to get it resolved with the mechanic.
Last night, I was able to get my timing belt setup correctly. There is no longer any slack when I turn it over by hand. I had to use the method described by Brian. Even with tensioner loosened, the spring did not appear to be adding enough tension on the belt. That little bit of slack was causing the belt to slightly bow up when it comes around the cam pulleys. Now, it's smooth operation all around. Time to button everything up, take it for a test drive, and move on to compression testing other maintenance tasks.
I know this is a very old video but I have a question. does this engine have close tolerance between valves and pistons? If it were to jump time can the valves smack the pistons???
Yes they can. The term is an "interference" engine. I learned that the hard way when my timing belt broke!
@@19580822 I learned it the hard way with a KZ1000.
They're pretty decent if you service them right.
Thanks!
Go back in and re set the timing belt properly. This time make sure all your slack is on the tensioner side and the other side has the belt tight.
Honda hasn't used a CVCC head design since they switched from using carburetors to fuel injection (during the 80's)
It didn't hit the piston, but it did help it to not close all the way and burn up the valve.
hi,, I have a question my friend just bought a Honda crv 2004 and the guy who sold the vehicle told him that the timing belt didn't need to be replaced because it was a chain belt.. but im jus watching in this video that is a regular timing belt, can you tell me at how many miles is this belt supposed to be replaced
Vladko Rod---The '04 CR-V has a timing chain. It's not normally considered a "maintenance item", but rather is replaced when it is suspected to be defective or becoming that way. I originally thought this video was about an '04 because of the title, but when I viewed the video it was obvious it was a Gen 1 CR-V.
ok ,, thank you very much!!
Years ago when laser pointers first came out people would shine them at airplanes at night. The laser light shining into the cockpit would cause pilots to become temporarily blind and couldn't land the plane.
Blinding the pilots of commercial air liners. It was on the news, its very serous thing.
Could be burned valves, blocked catalytic converter, egr valve stuck open, fuel filter restriction etc.
Hello Brian i have the same car as on this video, but mine is stuck at 40 km/h it wont go any higher i was wondering if u have any idea of what it may be, a friend of mine suggested me that the auto transmission filter was clogged and i needed to drop the transmission and change it... but thats expensive and im not sure thats the case... do you have any idea of what it could be? thanks btw excuse my poor english, its not my first language. God bless you
Look up gene Kim n chuck missler on UA-cam
The cam timing problem must have been introduced later. It could not have damaged just one cylinder.
That was a piss-poor job by the mechanic who originally installed the TB....just another reason why I do my own maintenance. In the next couple of months I'll be doing the third TB job on my '98 CRV which currently has 285,000 miles.The first time I didn't know about the cam holder trick and it drove me crazy but I eventually got it done and all of the marks were lined-up perfectly. The second time was significantly easier since I knew about the cam holders at that point.
hmm pretty sure the little tensioner at the end was for a/c. but yeah who cares! awesome vid!!
I sure wish I had a nice garage to do work like this without the worry of finishing fast. Cars are very convenient until they give you issues, but, it's life, it's not the end of the world. Modern world issues.