Thank you so much for this series! I have owned my SL-5 since the mid 80's. It sat dormant for ages. I have been using it again for the last few years. I have an issue which I believe is just a 40 yo belt and decided to do a "rebuild". Thanks for the caps list, allowed me to order and wait until I had all parts before opening up. Anyhow, the reason I am posting is I found capacitor #7 (as you counted) to not be populated. Appears to have never been placed. I wonder if this cap was removed from the BOM (parts list) later. There are holes on the component side, but there are pads coving it on the other side.
If it worked properly in the past then just replace the caps that you see. These were sold all over the world, with minor variations, so any omission is likely deliberate.
Howdy! Slowly going through these so I may find an answer, but the tonearm tracking motor keeps slamming itself to the right once I turn it on, so it won’t play for more than a few seconds. Any known fault for this?
It's going off to the right of the platter? It could be the servo gain is out or some other problem with the opto detector that makes the machine think it has reached the end of the record or entered a fault condition. When I adjust the servo gain, it often happens that I trip the opto unit into thinking it's in an error state, and it returns back to the home position. If it runs past the right to left, there was some discussion that it could be due to 2 faulty transistors on the main PCB, but I haven't confirmed or tested that yet. I'm on the hunt for another to fix, and might purposely try to induce that error, as it seems to be the most common fault. Best bet is to go through the whole process and see if the problem is resolved. Let me know how it goes, I still check in, but have been a bit busy to make new vids for a bit.
I have an SL5 which inside has a small 640ma fuse just after the transformer which keeps blowing when it is turned on. I’m guessing this could be caused by the capacitors? Didn’t realise they might leak so I’ll take pcb off to check. Thanks. Andy UK
That could certainly be the case. Don't look at whether there is any physical leaks, they will be electrically "leaking" internally. Ensure you can move the platter by hand too. If it is stuck it might cause excessive current draw, but I'd expect that only after you hit play.
I replaced based on the values that were actually installed on the board. I'm guessing it was a different revision, because another SL-5 had BP 100uFs installed, and that's what I was expecting.
hi! i recently picked up an sl-5 online, it has an awful buzzing problem. even with the ground cable connected properly to my preamp and the turntable ground port, it has an obnoxious 50hz hum whenever the needle is unmuted. the buzz disappears when i close the circuit with my body by touching the front panel buttons with one hand, and the ground terminal on my preamp with the other. do you have any ideas as to what is causing this problem? cheers!
Could it be something as simple as a break in the wire for your grounding cable? If you haven't replace the electrolytic capacitors, then that is a possibility. While you are in the underside, check the solder joints look ok going to the grounding pin.
@@felix_da_katze if i play around with the cable it makes some funky distorted noises so it detects that a ground cable is plugged in, but it just doesn't ground the turntable at all. i tried a different turntable in the exact same setup and it worked just fine
Probably any light oil will be fine. I use a light machine oil (like sewing machine oil) but any general purpose oil (like engine oil) should do. WD-40 is only to help clean up and/or free up seized parts, don't rely on it as a lubricant - it dries out and isn't really meant for it.
Thank you so much for this series! I have owned my SL-5 since the mid 80's. It sat dormant for ages. I have been using it again for the last few years. I have an issue which I believe is just a 40 yo belt and decided to do a "rebuild". Thanks for the caps list, allowed me to order and wait until I had all parts before opening up. Anyhow, the reason I am posting is I found capacitor #7 (as you counted) to not be populated. Appears to have never been placed. I wonder if this cap was removed from the BOM (parts list) later. There are holes on the component side, but there are pads coving it on the other side.
If it worked properly in the past then just replace the caps that you see. These were sold all over the world, with minor variations, so any omission is likely deliberate.
Howdy! Slowly going through these so I may find an answer, but the tonearm tracking motor keeps slamming itself to the right once I turn it on, so it won’t play for more than a few seconds. Any known fault for this?
It's going off to the right of the platter? It could be the servo gain is out or some other problem with the opto detector that makes the machine think it has reached the end of the record or entered a fault condition. When I adjust the servo gain, it often happens that I trip the opto unit into thinking it's in an error state, and it returns back to the home position.
If it runs past the right to left, there was some discussion that it could be due to 2 faulty transistors on the main PCB, but I haven't confirmed or tested that yet. I'm on the hunt for another to fix, and might purposely try to induce that error, as it seems to be the most common fault.
Best bet is to go through the whole process and see if the problem is resolved. Let me know how it goes, I still check in, but have been a bit busy to make new vids for a bit.
I have an SL5 which inside has a small 640ma fuse just after the transformer which keeps blowing when it is turned on. I’m guessing this could be caused by the capacitors? Didn’t realise they might leak so I’ll take pcb off to check. Thanks. Andy UK
That could certainly be the case. Don't look at whether there is any physical leaks, they will be electrically "leaking" internally. Ensure you can move the platter by hand too. If it is stuck it might cause excessive current draw, but I'd expect that only after you hit play.
Can you post in comments all the final capacitors you need to replace for SL-5?
Good idea. Just done.
@@felix_da_katze Why did you use 47uF@16V for bipolars instead of the stock 100uF?
I replaced based on the values that were actually installed on the board. I'm guessing it was a different revision, because another SL-5 had BP 100uFs installed, and that's what I was expecting.
@felix_da_katze oh yeah I see in your video that they were 47uf
Yeah, I try not to second guess what they've done :) I might update the list to say Please check with whats installed.
hi! i recently picked up an sl-5 online, it has an awful buzzing problem. even with the ground cable connected properly to my preamp and the turntable ground port, it has an obnoxious 50hz hum whenever the needle is unmuted. the buzz disappears when i close the circuit with my body by touching the front panel buttons with one hand, and the ground terminal on my preamp with the other. do you have any ideas as to what is causing this problem? cheers!
Could it be something as simple as a break in the wire for your grounding cable?
If you haven't replace the electrolytic capacitors, then that is a possibility. While you are in the underside, check the solder joints look ok going to the grounding pin.
@@felix_da_katze if i play around with the cable it makes some funky distorted noises so it detects that a ground cable is plugged in, but it just doesn't ground the turntable at all. i tried a different turntable in the exact same setup and it worked just fine
I'd be opening it up, checking the solder joints, and replacing the electrolytic capacitors.
Thanks for this!
No worries. I hope it solves your problem.
@@felix_da_katze I’ll circle back and let you know. Any suggestions on the oil or grease? I’m sure I have wd-40
Probably any light oil will be fine. I use a light machine oil (like sewing machine oil) but any general purpose oil (like engine oil) should do. WD-40 is only to help clean up and/or free up seized parts, don't rely on it as a lubricant - it dries out and isn't really meant for it.
Nice video
Thanks!