5 yrs ago I had to make the same decision. I installed the "Silver Gray" on my 1979 30 ft. sloop and I'm very happy I did. The pattern meshes regardless of orientation. But, I'm mostly happy that the color 'appears' white next to my white, fiberglass hull liner. Make sure to 'rough up' and clean the fiberglass before applying the spray on adhesive. A bonus of the Sailrite material is that, when it seemed to need cleaning last year, a spray and scrub of Woolite carpet cleaner made it look like new. btw... The area you want to put the 'hull blanket' material on is actually called the "ceiling". The area above your head is called the "overhead". Strange, but true! ;8>)
@@motorcityboatwerks hey man I think that's pretty cool that you replied I'm from South Florida and I work for a very popular boat Manufacturing I am planning to start my own boat repair business I have some questions would you mind if we could talk maybe you could be like a mentor
That very flattering and thanks for the offer. MotorCity Boat Werks is not a professional boat shop but rather my retirement boat restoration and boat building studio. Therefore I don’t do consulting or mentoring. However for people to want to have more contact with me I encourage them to become a VIP Patreon patreon.com/MotorCityBoatWerks
Just curious why you wouldn’t countersink the screws, leave them, and then epoxy over the countersink. That way you would have both a mechanical and chemical bond.
This is a great question that came up during the World of Boating radio show. The reason I don’t leave the screws is because the edge has to be rounded over to give it that finished look. The material is only 1/2” thick. You can’t run 1/4” round over bit from the router over the edge if there are screws in place. In fact the screws don’t do much in pvc foam board other than serve to mock up and align the pieces for final epoxy.
Michael this is good question. No. Remember the cowling, like the refrigerator stand, and the aft cabin bulkheads are bolted or screwed in place using a series of cheater blocks. The cheater blocks are epoxied to the hull at strategic locations giving the piece of furniture a place to be anchored to the hull. In this way the furniture is secure, yet easy to be removed.
Working time per batch of epoxy depends on the epoxy you’re using. West System Epoxy (which I use) has very detailed technical how to instruction for the DIYer. For most of my projects I use the fast cure harder (#205) and #105 epoxy due to my climate and work time, which gives me @9-15 minutes of working time per batch. Hard Cure time for handling approximately a full 24hrs later.
Bare walls are not an option for me. There has to be something to cover up the imperfections in the rough fiberglass. And since I'm unwilling to use foam backed vinyl, the solution is hull blanket.
Imagine what can be built using composites on a boat. In the end the aft cabin cowling weighed less than 25 pounds.
5 yrs ago I had to make the same decision. I installed the "Silver Gray" on my 1979 30 ft. sloop and I'm very happy I did.
The pattern meshes regardless of orientation. But, I'm mostly happy that the color 'appears' white next to my white,
fiberglass hull liner. Make sure to 'rough up' and clean the fiberglass before applying the spray on adhesive.
A bonus of the Sailrite material is that, when it seemed to need cleaning last year, a spray and scrub of
Woolite carpet cleaner made it look like new. btw... The area you want to put the 'hull blanket' material on
is actually called the "ceiling". The area above your head is called the "overhead". Strange, but true! ;8>)
Right on all accounts, but lets not confuse everyone! Good to hear about the gray, I'm leaning that way
Thanks for the video I enjoyed it very much
😁👍
@@motorcityboatwerks hey man I think that's pretty cool that you replied I'm from South Florida and I work for a very popular boat Manufacturing I am planning to start my own boat repair business I have some questions would you mind if we could talk maybe you could be like a mentor
That very flattering and thanks for the offer. MotorCity Boat Werks is not a professional boat shop but rather my retirement boat restoration and boat building studio. Therefore I don’t do consulting or mentoring. However for people to want to have more contact with me I encourage them to become a VIP Patreon
patreon.com/MotorCityBoatWerks
Nice work!! Fitting cabinets on a boat can be tough. Glad you stuck it out.
Thanks Shawn
Looking good. You can get sand and ivory colored hull blanket from Sailrite that has the same diamond pattern as that dirty looking silver grey.
I have seen the sand and it’s just not my boats color pallet. I think the choice is between ivory and gray. Not sure the gray is so bad
Ivory white looks nice
👌
Some say epoxy don't stick to plastic. I dont know but I like this material for boat project
It depends on the plastic. Epoxy does stick to PVC foam board if prepared properly
Just curious why you wouldn’t countersink the screws, leave them, and then epoxy over the countersink. That way you would have both a mechanical and chemical bond.
This is a great question that came up during the World of Boating radio show. The reason I don’t leave the screws is because the edge has to be rounded over to give it that finished look. The material is only 1/2” thick. You can’t run 1/4” round over bit from the router over the edge if there are screws in place. In fact the screws don’t do much in pvc foam board other than serve to mock up and align the pieces for final epoxy.
Silver grey
😃👌
Just ordered royal blue for my headliners
🍺
Joe: Do you have any concerns about the cowling kind of vibrating or rattling when underway?
Michael this is good question. No. Remember the cowling, like the refrigerator stand, and the aft cabin bulkheads are bolted or screwed in place using a series of cheater blocks. The cheater blocks are epoxied to the hull at strategic locations giving the piece of furniture a place to be anchored to the hull. In this way the furniture is secure, yet easy to be removed.
How much working time do you have between mixing the epoxy , applying it to the joint and then mounting the second structure?
Working time per batch of epoxy depends on the epoxy you’re using. West System Epoxy (which I use) has very detailed technical how to instruction for the DIYer. For most of my projects I use the fast cure harder (#205) and #105 epoxy due to my climate and work time, which gives me @9-15 minutes of working time per batch. Hard Cure time for handling approximately a full 24hrs later.
@@motorcityboatwerks Thanks
🤩
I can pretty guess what you blipped out
Pain and hardship in the Boat Werks 😒😂
How do you clean the hull blanket if it needs to be?
Supposedly you clean it with Woolite and a brush
@@motorcityboatwerks so which surface would be the easiest to clean down the road?
Bare walls are not an option for me. There has to be something to cover up the imperfections in the rough fiberglass. And since I'm unwilling to use foam backed vinyl, the solution is hull blanket.
Nice job, it was worth all the cursing.
🥸 it’s not all kittens and lollipops. This is real boat work. Sometimes things don’t go as planned
Looks @#$%& nice
😎