Hey I’m a new UA-camr with similar diagnostic videos , I love the way you always nail down the issue great video! You’re absolutely right new vehicles are having complex issues that keep us in business.
Keep them coming I learned so much from you and the way you explained is perfect step-by-step 67-year-old shade tree retired AC mechanic do all my own stuff. Happy holiday.
Good morning. The problem is, as I understand from the video, it is the signal which should be at 0.6V but which is at 0.78V with the engine stopped without vacuum. The sensors indicate the same voltage with the engine running. great video. David from France
@davidmonier3761 Good morning David, Yes the voltage was a little bit off with the engine off and I believe the sensor was failing intermittently! Thanks
Am watching from zimbabwe.....I love your explanation ....you must be a lecture....well I think it's goid to limit the number of minutes by cutting off the unnecessary parts ....buying parts and coming back.....overally I like everything about your diagnosis strategies...
Deo , You are an extremely Sharp & Honest Fella...Still remember that Video with the Wife from Virginia having her Infiniti TOWED to Maryland - for you too work on ! ! ! !.....Whatta True Story ! Southern California here : Ex Smog Emissions Repair Specialist & Drivability Problem Solver. My Snap - On Vacuum Gauge Chart displays that when a Gasoline Powered Vehicle displays 17 " - 22 " , - that Engine is Mechanically Sound with the Needle on the Gauge remains STEADY......Meaning that Vehicle can be Sold the next day - I don't care if the car has Bullet Holes on the Drivers Side & the Passenger Side because that Engine is TIGHT ! I haven't finished enjoying the Video , so I have paused. I have NEVER heard of a Vehicle Reading over 22 " of Vacuum - let alone 30 " of Vacuum @ Idle...Something is WRONG - or is the answer : this is not a Regular Gasoline Powered Vehicles. Your Videos are Top Shelf " Hoss " , " Hoss " Barkwell : Long Beach, CA. ( Los Angeles County )
The real answer to your question is that he didn't tested it correctly. He should of depressed the brake pedal and hold, and then check to see if the brake vacuum sensor signal reading was out of the normal range. Replace the sensor if the readings is not within the normal range.
@@Alex-Trejo I was thinking The problem could have been something to do with the circuit by moving the wires it must have disturbed the actual problem and fixed it
Deo. Didn’t your mama tell you there be days like this 😂… it’s a a song mama told there be days like this. … people have to realize that newer the vehicle the more electronic technology. More complex to diagnose & expensive to repair this I just my opinion but quality of parts are going south. Merry Christmas 🎄 & happy new year to you & your loved ones keep grinding
Deo..you the third diag tech that has complained about the questionable to shoddy quality and sheer complexity of these new cars! Eric O. at South Main Auto and Ivan at Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics! So U R Nexcellent company! 😁
God bless you Deo, is Rafael... Can you for now on diagnosis and repair it on the same video... And don't forget to say, God bless you, in the beginning and at the end of the video.
Deo, the old sensor was responding well and giving the same values as the new sensor. How can that sensor be defective when you were getting the same 4.38v on the green trace..Did i miss something?
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair We are on the fence on this one. There are three variables on this issue, Atleast you isolated the harness and the sensor. We are left with the ECU. Now its a wait and see or the kneel and pray game.
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair Deo, before i forget, you raised important issues which i think we need to talk more about them. Customers need to know and understand that diagnostic is a skill and must be payed for. TCO (Total cost of ownership) withregards to tools we use is another issue. You have annual subscription agreements to pay. Modern cars are computers on wheels. They are very complicated to troubleshoot and repair. Its tough!
The voltage being supplied to the sensor would remain the same as they are not part of the sensor... The back robbing is just to confirm the Sensor is getting a reliable voltage supply and with the vacuum working as proved you narrow the fault down just to the Sensor Only... I hope that helps
I would’ve compared the voltages to the PIDs at the very least. There was a bit of a difference in the vref perhaps not enough to be concerned with and the signal was the same as with the old sensor. Not sure I would’ve condemned the sensor based on that data. Showing the voltages and compared to what the computer is seeing would’ve been helpful.
You're completely right. The way to test it correctly, is to depress the brake pedal and hold. Then check the brake vacuum sensor signal reading to see if it's within the normal range value for that vehicle.
Ahhhh haaaa thank you!!! It is indeed NOT FIXED. edit: needs to scope the signal directly from the ECM. Most probably the wire from the sensor to the ECM is bad. ie. intermittent.
He didn't tested it correctly. He got lucky it was the problem. The correct way to test it is to depress the brake pedal and hold. Then check the brake vacuum sensor signal reading to see if it's within the normal range value for that vehicle.
The 2018-2019 models have TSB 18-NA-300 for this DTC. If there are no leaks and brake operation performance is ok, the condition could be caused by a software anomaly. The ECM should be checked and updated with the latest software. The TSB does not identify software version numbers.
The starter of that car has one starting left in it, and has been used in your garage, when the last time the Car was on, the starter was dead already, every car breaks somewhere in a specific time and date, and that one got broken in your garage location.
When tha car is running, you turn it off and then try to start it, but no crank, meaning 99 percent the starter is dead, because a dead starter will not shut off a running car, the problem will be when you turn off the car, it will not crank again. The 1 percent left is a dead battery will not crank the car also, but that will be easy to diagnostic.
Hmmmm . I didn’t see proof of a bad sensor without knowing the spec and seeing the 5 v signal fail high or low . Could have been a bad hose causing bleed down and replacement of both fixed it. Nice setup to test though.
He failed to test it correctly. He should of depressed the brake pedal and hold. Then check the brake vacuum sensor signal reading to see if it's within the normal range value for that vehicle.
I don't believe the tube is the issue. The signal value with the old & new sensor was the same. I would check the wiring from the sensor to the ECM, and also check for a blown fuse related to that wiring.
@rome8087 No! the wiring is fine, I had 0.7 V on the signal wire with the key, which meant that voltage was coming from the ECM, same voltage with the sensor disconnected
At the 24:00 minute mark, while still using the old sensor, and while the vehicle is off, the blue trace for the volt reference shows 5.00 voltage. The green trace for signal shows 0.78 volts, and the yellow trace for ground shows -0.01. At the 25:10 minute mark, now while the engine is operating, the green trace for signal went up to 4.38 volts with the old sensor, the other two traces remained the same. At the 31:50 minute mark, vehicle off, new sensor, the green trace showed 0.60 volts. With the old sensor, it showed 0.78 volts. That's a difference of 0.18 volts for the green trace between the new and old sensor. When you turned on the engine once again with the new sensor, the green trace went to 4.38 volts for signal. That's the same value as the old sensor. So, I'm still confused on what the actual fix is?
@@rome8087The way to test it correctly, you need to depress the brake pedal and hold it. Then check the brake vacuum sensor signal reading to see if it's within the normal range value for that vehicle. If not, then replace the sensor.
What means "GENERICK SIDE CODE". i am lost with that generic meaning....characteristic of or relating to a class or group of things, not specific.. Hmmm....??? Also .... why are generic codes important???
@TheAnalogKid2 No! the signal wire is fine, the sensor was failing, remember I had about 0.7V on the signal wire with the sensor disconnected, THE CAR HAS BEEN FIXED FOR WEEKS NOW, AND THE OWNER IS MY REGULAR CUSTOMER!!
Hey I’m a new UA-camr with similar diagnostic videos , I love the way you always nail down the issue great video! You’re absolutely right new vehicles are having complex issues that keep us in business.
@MeL1AutoDiagnostics Thanks, Keep up the good work
Keep them coming I learned so much from you and the way you explained is perfect step-by-step 67-year-old shade tree retired AC mechanic do all my own stuff. Happy holiday.
@mikecarignan7002 Thank you, Happy Holiday to you too
That was the xmas gift to your customer for fixing this vehicle. But hey this is a latest model but is has started to give problems. From South Africa
@wsnxumalo6707 I guess! Hahaha
Good to hear the stories of the day... We learn from your experiences
@thindo Thank you!
Good morning. The problem is, as I understand from the video, it is the signal which should be at 0.6V but which is at 0.78V with the engine stopped without vacuum. The sensors indicate the same voltage with the engine running. great video. David from France
@davidmonier3761 Good morning David, Yes the voltage was a little bit off with the engine off and I believe the sensor was failing intermittently! Thanks
Good jobs deo another fine repair 💪👍🙏😂♥️♥️
@johnniezuniga6841 Thank you!
Hola amigo!! Excellent work!! And thanks for sharing your experiences!! Please don't stop sharing them, I'm also learning, take care and thanks!!!
@jesuscastillo6562 My Pleasure! Thanks
Hi Deo great job love your expertise and your skills you are the best🎉
@hammatoure4229 Thank you Brother!
Great video. I always learn something.
Merry Christmas.
@michaelhomdus4945 Thank you, Merry Christmas to you too
Great video and diagnostic as always keep it up! I would suggest replacing the Vacuum pump as well as preventive maintenance.
@Angelo80907 thank you, the Vacuum pump is good, the sensor was failing
Thanks for this master ive encountered this trouble a lot now
@dakilangmananabas5276 My Pleasure!
great video my engineer..l wish you a merry Christmas & happy new year.
@CharlesCharles575 Thank you my Friend, Merry Christmas and Happy new year to you too
Hey 👋 following up from Kenya 🇰🇪 appreciate
@jamesgichuhi2174 Hello my Friend!
Deo, this video was awesome, keep it up.😊
@samuelandrade9246 Thank you!
Very good diagnostic video Deo!
Test test don't guess.
@ysitrim88 Yes my Friend, Thanks
i 'm always enjoy your videos bro
@odunayokehindeclement Thank you!
Am watching from zimbabwe.....I love your explanation ....you must be a lecture....well I think it's goid to limit the number of minutes by cutting off the unnecessary parts ....buying parts and coming back.....overally I like everything about your diagnosis strategies...
@RonaldPanorama Thanks!
Great work done Deo. I am a new subscriber to your channel. Where is your shop located?
@markkrispin6944 Thank you, Our shop is located in Frederick MD, you can email me at kitsautoandtruckrepair@gmail.com to schedule an appointment
Merry Christmas 🎉🎉
@jamesgichuhi2174 Thanks, Same to you
Deo ,
You are an extremely Sharp & Honest Fella...Still remember that Video with the Wife from Virginia having her Infiniti TOWED to Maryland - for you too work on ! ! ! !.....Whatta True Story !
Southern California here : Ex Smog Emissions Repair Specialist & Drivability Problem Solver.
My Snap - On Vacuum Gauge Chart displays that when a Gasoline Powered Vehicle displays 17 " - 22 " , - that Engine is Mechanically Sound with the Needle on the Gauge remains STEADY......Meaning that Vehicle can be Sold the next day - I don't care if the car has Bullet Holes on the Drivers Side & the Passenger Side because that Engine is TIGHT !
I haven't finished enjoying the Video , so I have paused.
I have NEVER heard of a Vehicle Reading over 22 " of Vacuum - let alone 30 " of Vacuum @ Idle...Something is WRONG - or is the answer : this is not a Regular Gasoline Powered Vehicles.
Your Videos are Top Shelf " Hoss " ,
" Hoss " Barkwell : Long Beach, CA.
( Los Angeles County )
Vacuum pump delivering near 30"...not engine vacuum
@milesmahan
Fantastic ! - That's good News , it wasn't Intake Manifold Vacuum.
@cbarkwell1000 The vacuum pump buids that vacuum, turbocharged engines don't really build vacuum!
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair
30 Thanks !
" O " MilesMayhan had also giving me an answer similar to yours that made me stop scratching my head.
Thank you for your demonstration, I have a question the old sensor reading looked similar to the new one how is it a bad sensor?
@abzbrk490 Yes! That sensor failing intermittently
The real answer to your question is that he didn't tested it correctly. He should of depressed the brake pedal and hold, and then check to see if the brake vacuum sensor signal reading was out of the normal range. Replace the sensor if the readings is not within the normal range.
@@Alex-Trejo I was thinking The problem could have been something to do with the circuit by moving the wires it must have disturbed the actual problem and fixed it
@@abzbrk490 Yes, that is also a possibility.
Deo. Didn’t your mama tell you there be days like this 😂… it’s a a song mama told there be days like this. … people have to realize that newer the vehicle the more electronic technology. More complex to diagnose & expensive to repair this I just my opinion but quality of parts are going south. Merry Christmas 🎄 & happy new year to you & your loved ones keep grinding
@on-site4094 LOL, HAHA I gotta keep remembering that, I know that song, Merry Christmas to you and your family too!
Godfather great one n happy Xmas to you 🎉❤
@MprahEnock-db8ti Thank you, Merry Christmas to you too
Very cool 👍
@555666jyd Thank you!
Good video my friend
@humbertoarellano8887 Thanks my Friend
Deo..you the third diag tech that has complained about the questionable to shoddy quality and sheer complexity of these new cars!
Eric O. at South Main Auto and Ivan at Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics!
So U R Nexcellent company! 😁
@ekimbrough1413 Oh ok!
When talking about OEM what is that means or stands for? From South Africa
@wsnxumalo6707 OEM means Original Equipment Manufacturer/ Manufactured
@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair thank you
Thanks
@norz172steel5 My Pleasure!
Deo like I been saying man you all dam good awesome video 😅😂😅
@bobbyserchion Thank you!
God bless you Deo, is Rafael... Can you for now on diagnosis and repair it on the same video... And don't forget to say, God bless you, in the beginning and at the end of the video.
@rafaelquiles1727 Thank you!
Nice
@JattaVictor Thanks!
Deo, the old sensor was responding well and giving the same values as the new sensor. How can that sensor be defective when you were getting the same 4.38v on the green trace..Did i miss something?
I think the same 🤔
@zwahashu you're right but the sensor was failing intermittently, it didn't act up when I was doing my tests but the vehicle has been fixed though!
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair We are on the fence on this one. There are three variables on this issue, Atleast you isolated the harness and the sensor. We are left with the ECU. Now its a wait and see or the kneel and pray game.
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair Deo, before i forget, you raised important issues which i think we need to talk more about them. Customers need to know and understand that diagnostic is a skill and must be payed for. TCO (Total cost of ownership) withregards to tools we use is another issue. You have annual subscription agreements to pay. Modern cars are computers on wheels. They are very complicated to troubleshoot and repair. Its tough!
The voltage being supplied to the sensor would remain the same as they are not part of the sensor... The back robbing is just to confirm the Sensor is getting a reliable voltage supply and with the vacuum working as proved you narrow the fault down just to the Sensor Only... I hope that helps
Great
@francisekaju7816 Thank you!
👍
@ashercohen4739 Thanks!
I would’ve compared the voltages to the PIDs at the very least. There was a bit of a difference in the vref perhaps not enough to be concerned with and the signal was the same as with the old sensor. Not sure I would’ve condemned the sensor based on that data. Showing the voltages and compared to what the computer is seeing would’ve been helpful.
@certautotech I believe the sensor was failing intermittently!
You're completely right. The way to test it correctly, is to depress the brake pedal and hold. Then check the brake vacuum sensor signal reading to see if it's within the normal range value for that vehicle.
Grasias
@martinarrieta248 My Pleasure!
I must of missed something something you had 4.38 V on the old sensor and 4.38V on the new sensor how was that a defective boost sensor .
Ahhhh haaaa thank you!!!
It is indeed NOT FIXED.
edit: needs to scope the signal directly from the ECM. Most probably the wire from the sensor to the ECM is bad. ie. intermittent.
@190055joe the sensor was failing intermittently
He didn't tested it correctly. He got lucky it was the problem. The correct way to test it is to depress the brake pedal and hold. Then check the brake vacuum sensor signal reading to see if it's within the normal range value for that vehicle.
The 2018-2019 models have TSB 18-NA-300 for this DTC. If there are no leaks and brake operation performance is ok, the condition could be caused by a software anomaly. The ECM should be checked and updated with the latest software. The TSB does not identify software version numbers.
@user-jh3dx9qp6c Cool!
Just a suggestion
Blur out the VIN when showing the diagnostic data
@rghorne01 Ok!
The starter of that car has one starting left in it, and has been used in your garage, when the last time the Car was on, the starter was dead already, every car breaks somewhere in a specific time and date, and that one got broken in your garage location.
@abdouallahuniverse5689 Yes! some customers don't understand that, luckily my customers are very understanding and they trust me!
When tha car is running, you turn it off and then try to start it, but no crank, meaning 99 percent the starter is dead, because a dead starter will not shut off a running car, the problem will be when you turn off the car, it will not crank again. The 1 percent left is a dead battery will not crank the car also, but that will be easy to diagnostic.
Ajde ne radi se pametan
Hmmmm . I didn’t see proof of a bad sensor without knowing the spec and seeing the 5 v signal fail high or low . Could have been a bad hose causing bleed down and replacement of both fixed it. Nice setup to test though.
@robertfoilesjr1337 the sensor was failing sometimes, it's fixed
He failed to test it correctly. He should of depressed the brake pedal and hold. Then check the brake vacuum sensor signal reading to see if it's within the normal range value for that vehicle.
With ignition off just push and hold the start button for over 5 seconds to turn the ignition on. Nothing else is needed.
@truth4reel Cool, Thanks
I don't believe the tube is the issue. The signal value with the old & new sensor was the same. I would check the wiring from the sensor to the ECM, and also check for a blown fuse related to that wiring.
@rome8087 No! the wiring is fine, I had 0.7 V on the signal wire with the key, which meant that voltage was coming from the ECM, same voltage with the sensor disconnected
At the 24:00 minute mark, while still using the old sensor, and while the vehicle is off, the blue trace for the volt reference shows 5.00 voltage.
The green trace for signal shows 0.78 volts, and the yellow trace for ground shows -0.01.
At the 25:10 minute mark, now while the engine is operating, the green trace for signal went up to 4.38 volts with the old sensor, the other two traces remained the same.
At the 31:50 minute mark, vehicle off, new sensor, the green trace showed 0.60 volts. With the old sensor, it showed 0.78 volts. That's a difference of 0.18 volts for the green trace between the new and old sensor.
When you turned on the engine once again with the new sensor, the green trace went to 4.38 volts for signal. That's the same value as the old sensor.
So, I'm still confused on what the actual fix is?
Oh, I figured it out. Thxs
@@rome8087The way to test it correctly, you need to depress the brake pedal and hold it. Then check the brake vacuum sensor signal reading to see if it's within the normal range value for that vehicle. If not, then replace the sensor.
Good video
@mehmetkunt2503 Thanks!
There's no brake fluid in the reservoir!
@ekimbrough1413 No, that was not the issue
What means "GENERICK SIDE CODE". i am lost with that generic meaning....characteristic of or relating to a class or group of things, not specific.. Hmmm....??? Also .... why are generic codes important???
@ROBINJOHNSON-l1k Generic codes are codes that you can see with your regular obd2 code reader
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair Ok that explains a LOT. Thank you!!!
Youur brake fluid reservoir is really low on fluid!
@ekimbrough1413 No!
On theRAM truck? Shit happens!
@ekimbrough1413 Yeah!
Replace vacuum pump
@frankjohn4302 No the pump is fine!
NOT FIXED. You need to scope the signal directly from the ECM. Most probably the wire from the sensor to the ECM is bad. ie. intermittent.
@TheAnalogKid2 No! the signal wire is fine, the sensor was failing, remember I had about 0.7V on the signal wire with the sensor disconnected, THE CAR HAS BEEN FIXED FOR WEEKS NOW, AND THE OWNER IS MY REGULAR CUSTOMER!!
Allow subtitles...sometimes i watch you while working in noisy environments
And now they are on~! Thank you
@milesmahan Cool, they will come on soon!
Me Suscríbe tu canal soy nuevo , tienes otro canal de youtube en español 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
@edgarmorente2709 Thank you and welcome to our youtube community
Love how Akon got into fixing cars 💪🏽🫡
@XxK1LL3RxKING Hahah I have heard that in the Past, someone told me that I look like Akon, Hahaha I like Akon so I'm ok with that LOL