I'm glad you found it useful! That was a fun project. Pretty impressed with the product... what a great concept on allowing it to reset itself. Cheers to you and have fun with your projects!!! Mike
Awesome video!!! I am in the middle of a 81 cb 650 project and this was a great help. I found this video while looking for motorcycle fuse blocks, I had this exact idea in mind. Thank you!!
I can't see why anyone building custom motorcycles and choppers would not go this route. It is such a stable solution. It appears to be a very good product and we were fortunate to speak to a few guys at Rowe and they were very helpful and liked to take ownership of our questions. Good luck with your project! And thanks for the feedback. It is great to hear from others with similar interests.
Very good step by step instructions along with the PDF wiring diagrams. I have an 1977 Triumph motorcycle that I would like to install a PDM60 on it also. I would like to know how your friends motorcycle is performing with it. Has there been any problems with the unit? Also was the motorcycle build recorded and put on UA-cam? Thanks for your video.
The PDM60 worked as planned and I just texted him to see if he has experienced any issues. He says there have been no issues and he is very happy with it. His previous build, he fully documented on some motor cycle forum with photos and detailed descriptions. But he did not do it with this build. Cheers and have fun with yours! Mike
Hey there! I know this is an older video, but if I was going to replace the old fuse block on a bike, but just wanted to use a newer style fuse block with blade fuses would this serve the same purpose of the PDM60 just without the same capabilities that unit has? Only looking to keep headlight, turns, and rear lights and am looking for an elegant analog solution that's nicer than in-line fuses.
Absolutely. The progression would be the original glass fuses can be upgraded to the blade style setup like most cars run today. This PDM60 is electronic based fuses that test every time the bike would be turned off. It is a fuse block on steroids. Certainly the Blade solution you are thinking about is a great choice.
Absolutely! This could basically be applied to any Bike, Chopper, or Go-Cart for the most part. You will need to understand how each of your components work electronically. Motorcycles in general all utilize the same basic components and electrical needs. Let me give you a couple of examples. Rear Brake Lights: All have 2 switches (hand and foot) work off a negatively switched circuit. Front and Rear Turn Signals: You will have to understand how the front controls are wired to make this work (for Ron's bike, he went form factory hand controls to something he found on the internet. We checked the new controls with a continuity meter to determine use for all the wires and went from there. That was 2 examples, one that will work as drawn and one that you might need to do some research. All in all, I would think that 90% of what is illustrated will transfer to any bike. Your first steps will be to obtain an original Wiring Diagram for your bike. Then trace each of the circuits as I have illustrated them and determine any proper adjustments that are needed. Thanks for asking and it is nice to know people are still watching this video. It was a very cool project!
Can someone tell me please why my pdm’s lights are on even if my bike switch is off, and why my air horn can be activated with a button even if switch is off but that line needed the ground trigger activation???
The only way that the Circuit lights can be on is if the PDM60 has a good GROUND on the Black wire AND a POSITIVE 12V on the Grey wire. Check those circuits. Sounds like a part of the Horn problem will be solved when you handle the Black Grey wire issues.... otherwise you need to trace your horn circuits.
thank you for replay. That was actually, totally stupidity of mine. Instead of connecting ground trigger wire to switch that triggers ground, I connected it directly to baterry ground. what a clown I am. Since the battery ground is continuous one, it was keeping the PDM lights ON continuously. Also, my horn wiring was actually wrong. All I needed to do is 5th line(PDM) positive to horn, negative (PDM) to negative horn and ground ( purple ground trigger on PDM) to the ground side of the horn switch (ground trigger) of the horn. That's it!
I know I’m late to this video but SUPER helpful stuff. Us rookie builders appreciate the hell out of it! 🙌🏻
I'm glad you found it useful! That was a fun project. Pretty impressed with the product... what a great concept on allowing it to reset itself. Cheers to you and have fun with your projects!!! Mike
Awesome video!!! I am in the middle of a 81 cb 650 project and this was a great help. I found this video while looking for motorcycle fuse blocks, I had this exact idea in mind. Thank you!!
I can't see why anyone building custom motorcycles and choppers would not go this route. It is such a stable solution. It appears to be a very good product and we were fortunate to speak to a few guys at Rowe and they were very helpful and liked to take ownership of our questions. Good luck with your project! And thanks for the feedback. It is great to hear from others with similar interests.
Tanks so much for putting this very well detailed video together. This will most likely help me with my project.
+Ronnie Judge Thank you for the feedback! Hope it helps and good luck with your project!
Nice... my 81 kz650’s display lights won’t come on and I just put a fresh battery in and fuses look good but the connectors are iffy
bro! You're awesome! You make UA-cam great, Thanks for making this - super helpful.
I greatly appreciate the comment. It worked great for this old bike. Hope it helps your build. Mike
Very good step by step instructions along with the PDF wiring diagrams. I have an 1977 Triumph motorcycle that I would like to install a PDM60 on it also. I would like to know how your friends motorcycle is performing with it. Has there been any problems with the unit? Also was the motorcycle build recorded and put on UA-cam? Thanks for your video.
The PDM60 worked as planned and I just texted him to see if he has experienced any issues. He says there have been no issues and he is very happy with it. His previous build, he fully documented on some motor cycle forum with photos and detailed descriptions. But he did not do it with this build. Cheers and have fun with yours! Mike
Thank you for getting back to me so quickly. Have a great day.
I think this would work wonders on my cx500
It would be extremely useful on any 12 Volt vehicle. Cheers and enjoy!
Hey there! I know this is an older video, but if I was going to replace the old fuse block on a bike, but just wanted to use a newer style fuse block with blade fuses would this serve the same purpose of the PDM60 just without the same capabilities that unit has?
Only looking to keep headlight, turns, and rear lights and am looking for an elegant analog solution that's nicer than in-line fuses.
Absolutely. The progression would be the original glass fuses can be upgraded to the blade style setup like most cars run today. This PDM60 is electronic based fuses that test every time the bike would be turned off. It is a fuse block on steroids. Certainly the Blade solution you are thinking about is a great choice.
Aswesome info. Plan is to use in place of fuse block on BRP XR650L. Waiting for delivery.
I think it is a great replacement! An ingenious product. Great use of new technology. Cheers and have fun with your project.
Great Video, Thank You. Do you think this wiring Diagram would work for Yamaha XJ 650???
Absolutely! This could basically be applied to any Bike, Chopper, or Go-Cart for the most part. You will need to understand how each of your components work electronically. Motorcycles in general all utilize the same basic components and electrical needs. Let me give you a couple of examples. Rear Brake Lights: All have 2 switches (hand and foot) work off a negatively switched circuit. Front and Rear Turn Signals: You will have to understand how the front controls are wired to make this work (for Ron's bike, he went form factory hand controls to something he found on the internet. We checked the new controls with a continuity meter to determine use for all the wires and went from there. That was 2 examples, one that will work as drawn and one that you might need to do some research. All in all, I would think that 90% of what is illustrated will transfer to any bike. Your first steps will be to obtain an original Wiring Diagram for your bike. Then trace each of the circuits as I have illustrated them and determine any proper adjustments that are needed. Thanks for asking and it is nice to know people are still watching this video. It was a very cool project!
UCanDoIt2 awesome. I appreciate your reply. Loved the separate pages. Well done.
That’s awesome and thank you sir! Love the video and this is an amazing upgrade IMO
Thank you! And I agree... it is a great upgrade. Cheers and have fun with your projects.
Thank You, i don not know much about electronic circuit, But know i colud understand how it works, Thanks for sharing, i will update my honda cb900.
+reynor2 Thanks for the feedback and good luck with your project! Thanks for watching.
Great explanation.
That little box is the Cat's Meow! Cheers!
Great work, Very helpful!
Thanks for the feedback! Good luck with your project.
Can someone tell me please why my pdm’s lights are on even if my bike switch is off, and why my air horn can be activated with a button even if switch is off but that line needed the ground trigger activation???
The only way that the Circuit lights can be on is if the PDM60 has a good GROUND on the Black wire AND a POSITIVE 12V on the Grey wire. Check those circuits. Sounds like a part of the Horn problem will be solved when you handle the Black Grey wire issues.... otherwise you need to trace your horn circuits.
thank you for replay. That was actually, totally stupidity of mine. Instead of connecting ground trigger wire to switch that triggers ground, I connected it directly to baterry ground. what a clown I am. Since the battery ground is continuous one, it was keeping the PDM lights ON continuously. Also, my horn wiring was actually wrong. All I needed to do is 5th line(PDM) positive to horn, negative (PDM) to negative horn and ground ( purple ground trigger on PDM) to the ground side of the horn switch (ground trigger) of the horn. That's it!
Awesome! Glad it is all worked out!
Is the Handbrake on the wrong side.?
Possibly. I have not looked at the drawing in quite some time and the guy I designed it for, did not mention it. Just install it on the correct side.